ebook with video

Makingfor beginners to intermediate

Corset

Julia Brembleof Sew Curvy

!A RAINBOW DISKS EBOOK

Copyright Rainbow Disks Limited 2012

Rainbow Disks Ltdwww.rainbowdisks.com

5 Linden ValeHowell RoadExeter EX4 4LFUK

First published in the UK in 2012

Text and illustrations Julia Bremble Video Rainbow Disks and Julia Bremble

Video by Trevor WigginsEditor: Vivienne Wells

ISBN 978-1-906314-23-1

Julia Bremble has asserted her right to be identi!ed as author of this work in accor-dance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retriev-al system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, by photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from the publisher.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978-1-906314-23-1

RAINBOW DISKS LTDwww.rainbowdisks.com

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Contents

"

Contents 3

Using this ebook: tips 4

Introduction 5why make a corset? 6

Brief History 8

How a Corset Works 11XMTWJSVXXMRKEGSVWIX

Essential Tools 14QIEWYVMRKXSSPW TETIVERHQEVOMRKXSSPW JEFVMGGYXXMRKXSSPW QIXEP[SVOXSSPW WI[MRKXSSPW

Essential Hardware 20the busk 20FSRMRK I]IPIXW

Building a Framework 25[SVOMRK[MXLFSRIW inserting the busk ZMHISMRWIVXMRKEFYWOPSSTWMHI ZMHISMRWIVXMRKEFYWOWXYHWMHI inserting the eyelets ZMHISMRWIVXMRKI]IPIXW

Fabrication 36JEFVMGWERHXLIWXVIRKXLPE]IV MRXIVJEGMRK GLERRIPWXETIWVMFFSRFMRHMRKERHPEGIWRSXIWSRJEFVMGKVEMR JEFVMGTVITEVEXMSRFIJSVIGYXXMRK WYTTSVXMRKWXVYGXYVI ZMHISVSPPTMRRMRK

Sewing Techniques 46WIEQW ZMHISQEOMRKE[IPXWIEQ video: making a lapped seam/inserting EKYWWIX FSRIGEWMRKWERHGLERRIPW MRWIVXMRKE[EMWXWXE] QEOMRKEFEGOQSHIWX]TERIP RMWLMRK

Vital Underpinnings 60taking measurements 60making a toile 62TYXXMRKSR]SYVGSVWIXXSMPI XXMRK]SYVGSVWIXXSMPI REPTEXXIVREHNYWXQIRXW

Making a Corset 69making a single layer corset: XLIVIHWMPOGSVWIX worksheet : single layer corset [MXLSYXJEWLMSRJEFVMG worksheet 2: single layer corset [MXLJEWLMSRJEFVMG making a double layer corset: XLI[LMXIGSYXMPGSVWIX worksheet : double layer corset 90

End Notes 92books for techniques and inspiration 92SRPMRIVIWSYVGIW 7YTTPMIVW

Glossary 94

Julia Bremble 96

More Rainbow Disks 97

To go to chapters or projects, click on the headings here, use the Bookmark links (click on the icon at the top le! of the Adobe Reader window) or scroll through the page "umbnails (click on the icon next to the Bookmarks).

Using this ebook: t ips

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'ST]XLI4(*PIXS]SYVGSQTYXIVWLEVHHMWOMJ]SYFSYKLXXLIIFSSOSREHMWOMX[MPP[SVOJEWXIVJVSQXLIVI

Introduct ion

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The archetypal corset shape, the one everybody thinks of when the word corset is mentioned, is the :MGXSVMERGSVWIX -X WPMQW XLI[EMWX[LMPIIRLERGMRKthe roundness of the bosom and the hips, creating the classic hourglass shape to any figure, regardless SJWM^I8LMWIFSSOMWERMPPYWXVEXIHKYMHIXSQEOMRKE:MGXSVMERWX]PIGSVWIXJSVJEWLMSRSVGSWXYQI8LImethods and materials are not exclusive to the pe-riod and can apply to other styles of corset, although there are probably as many methods as there are GSVWIXW8LMWMWNYWXXLIFIKMRRMRK

=SYHSRSXLEZIXSFIERI\TIVMIRGIHWIEQWXVIWW-Jyou are comfortable behind a sewing machine, have a good working knowledge of basic sewing techniques ERHGERWI[EWXVEMKLXPMRI]SYGERFYMPHEGSVWIX-WE]FYMPHFIGEYWIWI[MRKMWNYWXTEVXSJXLITVSGIWWThere are pieces of hardware to be manipulated us-ing tools that may be more at home in the garden WLIHXLERXLIWI[MRKVSSQ&YX[LIREPPXLITEVXWare assembled in the right order, the result will be a stunning piece of wearable architecture that, with care, will last and be admired for many years, perhaps even generations!

'SVWIXV] [MPP HIZIPST ]SYV WI[MRK EFMPMXMIW ZIV]quickly, and teach you to be patient, dextrous, organ-MWIHERHTVEGXMGEP-XWSYRHWEFMXPMOIENSFMRXIVZMI[

1] EMQ MR[VMXMRK XLMW IFSSO HS VIEH XLI LIPTJYP9WMRKXLMWIFSSOXMTW!) is to pass on the most practi-cal methods of corset building knowledge, built up through years of making corsets and researching the WYFNIGXMRQER]HMJJIVIRXERHWSQIXMQIWLEVHXSJMRHTPEGIW - LSTI ]SY [MPP JMRH XLMW E KSSH FIKMRRIVWKVSYRHMRKERMRXIVQIHMEXIWVIJIVIRGIERHEWSYVGISJ MRWTMVEXMSR *VSQ LIVI ]SY GER I\TPSVI JYVXLIVMRXSQSVIEHZERGIHXIVVMXSV]

Julia Bremble

Julia Bremble in her studio. See overleaf for a video introduction by Julia

The archetypal corset shape is Victorian. It creates an hourglass shape by compressing the waist while enhancing the roundness of bosom and hip

%why make a corset?

'SRXVEV]XSTSTYPEVFIPMIJGSVWIXWEVIRSXFEHJSV]SY8LI]EVIRSXTEMRJYPSVYRGSQJSVXEFPIXS[IEVHSRSXWUYII^I]SYVMRXIWXMRIWSYXSJWLETISVGEYWIFSHMP] HEQEKI8SHE] XLI] EVI IWWIRXMEPP] E JEWLMSRMXIQ[MXLFIRIJMXW%WPSRKEWSRIMWWIRWMFPIXLIVIMWRSGEYWIJSVGSRGIVR8LMROSJEGSVWIXMRXLIWEQI[E]]SY[SYPHXLMROSJETEMVSJOMPPIVLIIPW7YGLheels hurt if you wear them for too long, and a corset hurts if you lace it too tight, but both make you feel +6)%8F]IRLERGMRK]SYVWLETIERHTSWXYVI8LI]QEOI]SYWXERHWXVEMKLXERHXLIVIJSVIXEPP

1MHFYWXERHYRHIVFYWXGSVWIXW[IVITSTYPEVMRXLI:MGXSVMER IVE WS TEXXIVRW JSV XLIWI WX]PIW EVI IEW]XSJMRH1SHIVRSZIVFYWXGSVWIXWTVSZMHIQSVISJEfitting challenge, and patterns that go right over the FYWXEVIWGEVGI8LIVIMWRSXLMRKPMOIE[EMWXGMRGLIVor waspie (a shorter version of the underbust), for achieving a flawless hourglass shape underneath a

I N T R O D U C T I O N

video: introduction by julia bremble

Corsetry will quickly develop your sewing abilities

&HVIWW;LMGLIZIVWX]PI]SYGLSSWIETVSTIVP]JMXXIHGSVWIX MW XSXEPP] WQSSXL FIX[IIR GSVWIX ERH JPIWL8LMWMW[L]XVEHMXMSREPGSVWIXV]MWTVIJIVVIHF]JEWL-MSRHIWMKRIVWGIPIFVMXMIWERHFVMHIW

,S[IZIVXLIVIMWEGEXGL8LISRP][E]XSKYEVERXIIa comfortable and professional fit is to wear a corset that has been hand made to your own measurements using high quality components; in other words, a be-WTSOIGSVWIX[LMGLMWZIV]I\TIRWMZI'IVXEMRP]EFI-spoke corset is beyond the pocket of many people so the only way to achieve the fit and comfort of such a KEVQIRXMWXSQEOISRI]SYVWIPJ,ETTMP]YRPMOIQER]items of couture clothing, making a corset isnt as dif-ficult as first it may seem!

1EOMRKEGSVWIXMWJYR0IX]SYVMQEKMREXMSRVYR[MPHF]EHHMRKJIEXLIVWSVFS[WFIEHWSVWTEVOPI1EOIyour corset as plain or as fabulous as you like, and XEMPSVMXXSEWTIGMJMGSYXJMXSVSGGEWMSR;IEVMX[MXLNIERWEWOMVXHVIWWSV XVSYWIVW9WISRIEWYRHIV-[IEVSVOIITMXWXVMGXP]MRXLIFIHVSSQ

In short, a corset is sexy, versatile, funky, fun and time-PIWW-GEREPQSWXKYEVERXIIXLEXSRGI]SYKIXWXEVXIH]SY[MPPWSSRFIGSQIEHHMGXIH-J]SYLEZIER]HMJ-JMGYPX]JMRHMRKQEXIVMEPWSVWYTTPMIWNYWXGSRXEGXQIEX7I['YVZ]'SVWIXV]

[[[WI[GYVZ]GSQ

I N T R O D U C T I O N

The only limit is your imagination. This multi layer corset has silver rubber fabric over coutil

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;MXL XLI MRZIRXMSR SJ IPEWXMG XLI Wsaw stiff boned corsets replaced by soft-er girdles and bras, which were strategi-GEPP]FSRIH[MXLXLMRWTMVEP[MVIW -R XLIW ERH W XLI RSRIPEWXMGEXIH GSVWIXmade a brief comeback in the form of the [EWTMIYWIHXSGVIEXIXLIXMR][EMWXJSV(MSV W2I[0SSOJEWLMSRWSJXLIXMQI

Our attachment to corset technology re-QEMRW WXVSRK XSHE] -X MW JVIUYIRXP] YWIHin the world of haute couture and on the GEX[EPO%RHXLIGSVWIXLEWFIGSQIJEWL-ionable as outerwear once again in sub-cultures such as fetish, goth, steampunk, ERHFYVPIWUYI

B R I E F H I S T O R Y

Corsetry has become fashionable as outerwear

By the 1950s, stays were made from elasticated net

''

To make a successful corset, it helps to know how the corset works, both in relation to the body, and as a pat-XIVR-RQSWXHVIWWQEOMRKERHXEMPSV-MRKTVSNIGXWE[IEVMRKIEWIMWEHHIHto the pattern to give space between XLIFSH]ERHXLIKEVQIRX%WEVIWYPXthe wearer can move comfortably without feeling restricted, and there MWRSWXVEMRMRKSRXLIJEFVMG

In contrast, a corset shapes by com-TVIWWMSR -X LEWRIKEXMZI IEWI MI MXMW WQEPPIV XLER XLI[IEVIVW FSH] MRSVHIV XS VIWXVMGX;LIRQEHI TVST-erly, a corset actually gains strength from the even and constant pressure I\IVXIHF]XLIVIWXVMGXIHFSH]MRWMHIIn spite of this restriction, a corset should not cause pain by pinching or putting strain on the wrong parts of XLI FSH]8LI WOMPPIH GSVWIXMrVI YR-derstands the pressure points of the body, and how these and the corset will interact for the best looking and most comfortable result, bearing fully in mind the particular physical at-XVMFYXIWSJIEGL[IEVIV)ZIREWQEPPamount of knowledge of traditional flat pattern cutting will help when QEOMRKERHJMXXMRKEGSVWIX

&IGEYWIEGSVWIXMW[SVRMQQIHMEXIP]next to the skin, your choice of fab-VMGMWZIV]MQTSVXERX7]RXLIXMGJMFVIWclasped around your torso will soon FIGSQIW[IEX]YRGSQJSVXEFPIHMVX]ERHWQIPP]2EX-ural fibres are best because they breathe and, pref-IVEFP][MGOXLIQSMWXYVIE[E]JVSQXLIFSH]

0MOIQER]XLMRKW XLI PSSOERH JIIPSJEGSVWIX MWETIVWSREPTVIJIVIRGI7SQITISTPIPMOIEPMKLXGSRXVSPSXLIVWPMOIEZIV]GSRWXVMGXIHXMKLXPEGIHIJJIGX2SXIthat it takes years of training by a corset wearer to EGLMIZI WIVMSYW XMKLXPEGMRK [LIVI QSVI XLER GQMRMWXEOIRSJJXLIREXYVEP[EMWXWM^I(SRX

EXXIQTXEVIHYGXMSRSJQSVIXLERGQMRYRXMP]SYVFSH]MWEGGYWXSQIHXSVIKYPEVGSVWIXXMRK

;LIR GSRWXVYGXMRK E GSVWIX JVSQ ]SYV S[R SV Ecommercial pattern, the most important, compli-GEXIHERHHMJJMGYPXTVSGIHYVIMWJMXXMRK=SYQYWXHI-XIVQMRIXLILSVM^SRXEPGMVGYQJIVIRGISJGIVXEMROI]points on the torso, the precise vertical measure-QIRXWERH[LIVIXLI]EVIXLIHIWMVIH[EMWXWM^IERHXLIJMRMWLIHPSSO8LIVIMWRSQEKMGJSVQYPEJSVXLMW

How a Corset Works

A well made corset should be smooth, without any wrinkles and should not cause pain by pinching or putting strain on the wrong part of the body

'#

Essent ial Tools

&IJSVIWXEVXMRKQEOIWYVI]SYLEZIEPPXLIVIUYMVIHXSSPWXSLERH8LIVIare some quite challenging aspects to corsetry, which are difficult, if RSXMQTSWWMFPI[MXLSYXXLIVMKLXMQTPIQIRXW,IVIMWEPMWXSJXLIFEWMGXSSPW]SYRIIH(IXEMPIHMRWXVYGXMSRWSRLS[XSYWIXLIQETTIEVMRXLIJSPPS[MRKGLETXIVW

measuring tools

Good measuring tools are a must There are no half measures in cor-WIXV])ZIV]XLMRKQYWXFIEFWSPYXIP]TVIGMWI.YWXEJI[QMPPMQIXVIWSYXERHXLI[LSPIGSVWIX[MPPGLERKI

8ETIQIEWYVIJSVQIEWYVMRK]SYVFSH] 'PIEV VYPIVTVIJIVEFP] E KVEHIVW WIX WUYEVI E JEWLMSRGYVZI[MXLWXVEMKLXIHKISVEWXVEMKLXUYMPXIVWVYPIV8LMWMWJSVQIEWYVMRKTVIGMWIdistances on your pattern if you need to, such as when making altera-XMSRWSVEHNYWXQIRXW%PWSJSVGYXXMRKEGGYVEXIFMEWWXVMTWJVSQJEFVMGMJ]SY[MWLXSWIPJFMRH]SYVGSVWIXSVQEOI]SYVS[RFSRMRKXETI 7IEQKEYKIJSVQIEWYVMRKWQEPPTVIGMWIHMWXERGIW

Measuring tools: tape measure, French curve/ruler, seam gauge tools

Suitable hand and machine needles

"%

Fabricat ion

1EOI]SYVGSVWIXEWJPMVX]EVX]GSQTPMGEXIHTPEMRSVWMQ-TP]IPIKERXEW]SY[MWL2SX[SGSVWIXWXLEX]SYQEOIfor yourself will be the same because you will build your skills as you make each one, and as you work you will have a thousand different ideas for your RI\XGVIEXMSR8LIQER]HMJJIVIRXJEFVMGWGSPSYVWand textures to choose from does allow the im-agination to run riot there really are no limits! 1IHMYQ[IMKLX WMPOW XEJJIXE ERH WYMXMRK JEFVMGWEVITEVXMGYPEVP]KSVKISYWSTXMSRW

However, because corsets have metal compo-nents and are designed to be placed under a considerable amount of strain, we need to think carefully about the fabrics we use and how we XVIEX XLIQ;MXL XLI I\GITXMSR SJ ZIV] WSJXfloaty and sheer fabrics, such as chiffon and some X]TIWSJSVKER^EXLIVIEVIJI[JEFVMGWXLEXEVIentirely unsuitable because most fabrics can be WXVIRKXLIRIHEWHIWGVMFIHMRXLMWGLETXIV

Medium weight silk dupion and taffeta and (below) suiting fabric, often used in corsetry

#"

FA B R I C A T I O N

Linings

A corset does not have to be lined, but a lining serves ERYQFIVSJTYVTSWIW-XQEOIWXLIMRWMHISJXLIGSV-WIX PSSO RMGI ERH WQSSXL%PWS HITIRHMRK SR XLIfabric used, it can wick away moisture from the skin, making the corset much more comfortable to wear, IWTIGMEPP]MR[EVQGSRHMXMSRW

'SVWIXPMRMRKWGERFITEVXSJXLIGSVWIXMXWIPJNSMRIHSRXSXLIGSVWIXEXEPPWIEQW3VXLI]GERFIJPSEX-MRK[LMGLQIERW XLEX XLI]SRP] NSMR XLI GSVWIX EXthe edges, giving a lovely smooth finish on the in-side (preferable when wearing the corset next to the WOMR%R]PMKLXQIHMYQJEFVMGGERFIYWIHEWE JEF-ric lining, the most popular being soft quilting-weight GSXXSRSVPMRIR

Fashion fabric, turn of cloth and roll pinning

;LIRJEWLMSRJEFVMGMWYWIHEWXLISYXIVPE]IVSJXLIcorset in partnership with coutil or another strong, close woven fabric, it must be attached to the strength layer either by bonding or by a process called roll TMRRMRKFIGEYWISJERMWWYIGEPPIHXYVRSJGPSXL

1SWXGSVWIXMRWXVYGXMSRFSSOWERHTEXXIVRWHSRSXmention roll pinning or turn of cloth, but it is of the upmost importance if you want to achieve a smooth ERH PSRK PEWXMRK JMRMWL -R GSVWIXV] XYVR SJ GPSXL MWbuilt in after all of the fabric pieces are cut and before XLIGSVWIXMWEWWIQFPIH

To demonstrate turn of cloth and the reason for roll TMRRMRKXEOIX[SVIGXERKPIWSJJEFVMGEFSYXGQMR3RIWLSYPHFIEWXMJJJEFVMGGSYXMPSVHVMPPXLISXLIVEWSJXIVJEFVMGWMPOSVPMKLXGSXXSR4PEGIthese rectangles together with the light fabric on top SRXSTERHWI[EPSRKFSXLPSRKIHKIW2S[JSPHXLIWXMXGLIH IHKIW YRHIV F] GQ MR WXMXGL HS[REKEMRERHTVIWWXLITMIGIJPEX

=SY[MPPRSXMGIXLEXMX[MPPRSXTVIWWJPEX2SEQSYRXof smoothing or ironing will persuade your little rectangle to lie flat, and, if you get the outside (soft fabric) to look smooth, you will notice that the stiff JEFVMGSRXLIYRHIVWMHITYGOIVW8LMWMWFIGEYWIXLI

top fabric has become smaller than the bottom fabric [LIVI]SYLEZIJSPHIHSZIVXLIIHKIW-RXLIJMRMWLIHGSVWIXXLMWGEYWIWYRWMKLXP]VMHKIWMRXLIGSYXMP

To prevent this happening, we incorporate turn of GPSXLYWMRKXLIVSPPTMRRMRKXIGLRMUYI3RXLIRI\XTEKIWMWEWXITF]WXITKYMHIXSLSVM^SRXEPVSPPTMRRMRK]SYVGSVWIXTMIGIWFIJSVIXLI]EVIWI[RXSKIXLIV

Although this corset is beautiful it has not had a turn of cloth allowance built in. You can clearly see puckering

underneath the silk over the hip, where the coutil strength layer is straining against the silk outer layer

$!

S E W I N G T E C H N I Q U E S

bone casings and channels

The minimum requirement of a corset is to have FSRMRKGLERRIPWEXIZIV]WIEQ8LIGLERRIPWGERFIJSVQIHMRHMJJIVIRX[E]W8LIQSWXTSTYPEVQIXLSHWare: using the seam allowances to make channels, add-ing boning tape casings on the inside, adding decora-tive boning casings on the outside, or sandwiching the channels through all layers of a corset (when the GSVWIXLEWSVQSVI PE]IVW;LIRWXMXGLMRKFSRIGEWMRKW]SYQYWXEP[E]W[SVOMRSRP]SRIHMVIGXMSRIf you sew from opposite ends you may end up with YRWMKLXP]VYGLMRKERH[VMROPMRK

See: &SRMRK, ;SVOMRK [MXL FSRIW, 'LERRIPW XETIWribbon, binding and laces, Seams

Sandwiched bone channels

This is the easiest way to sew boning channels into your corset, but it cannot be used on a single layer GSVWIX5YMXI WMQTP] ]SY WXMXGL ETTVSTVMEXIP] WM^IHchannels through two or more layers of your corset JEFVMGSRGIXLIGSVWIXMWEWWIQFPIH-XLIPTWXSORS[the exact dimensions of your presser feet or employ XLILIPTSJEUYMPXMRKFEV

These external boning channels are made of a shiny version of the matt fabric used for the corset panels

$&

S E W I N G T E C H N I Q U E S

Embellishments

Once your corset is bound at the top and bottom edges, you can then decorate it further with lace, JIEXLIVWVLMRIWXSRIWSV[LEXIZIVXEOIW]SYV JERG]3V]SYGERPIEZIMXTPEMR8LIVIEVIRSVYPIW7SQI-times a particular trim requires insertion before sew-ing down the binding, but that is an individual case for EWWIWWQIRXEWETTVSTVMEXI-RQSWXGEWIWIQFIPPMWL-ing your corset offers the opportunity for hand fin-ishing, one of the features that will set it apart from EKEVQIRXXLEXMWSJJXLITIKSVVIEH]XS[IEV

Braid, ribbon and beaded trims

If the binding is not a particular feature of your cor-set, you may wish to sew a braid, ribbon, feathers or FIEHIHXVMQXSXLIVIKYPEVFMRHMRK%KEMRXLMWMWZIV]much a personal choice and the method of attach-

ment depends on the type of trim chosen and the HIWMVIHPSSOERHJIIPSJXLIKEVQIRX,S[IZIVMXMWEPQSWXEP[E]WRIGIWWEV]XSWI[XLMWTEVXF]LERH

Lace overlays and motifs

A lace overlay can be sewn over all or some of your JEWLMSRJEFVMGTMIGIWFIJSVIXLIGSVWIXMWEWWIQFPIHOr you can use lace motifs or edging attached to your corset as a binding trim or an applique, what-IZIVWYMXW]SYVPEGI8LMW MWYWYEPP]WI[RSRYWMRKEXMR]WXEFSVJIPPWXMXGLIZIV]JI[QMPPMQIXVIW

The green corset has black lace appliqu motif and black flossing at the bottom of the bone channels. The white corset has a lace trim attached to the binding, plus gold flossing with rhinestones. On the black panels are samples of flossing stitches in different colours. Also shown are some gold ribbon and a matching bow

%)

Making a Corset

The TV110 corset from Truly Victorian

In this chapter we go through the process of making three actual corsets from start to finish, using some of the techniques, tool and materials outlined in pre-ZMSYWGLETXIVW-I\TPEMRLS[XSTYXEPPXLIGSQTS-nents together in the right order, and how keep your work organised so the whole process is as easy as TSWWMFPIJSVFIKMRRIVW8LIVIEVIPMROWXSVIPIZERXMR-JSVQEXMSRMRIEVPMIVWIGXMSRWSJXLMWIFSSO

- LEZIFEWIH XLIWI GSVWIXWSR XLITSTYPEV8:corset pattern which is made by 8VYP]:MGXSVMER but XLIXIGLRMUYIWERHQIXLSHWEVIKSSHJSVER]:MGXS-VMERWX]PIGSVWIXTEXXIVR

8LI8:TEXXIVRMWJVSQERSVMKMREPTEXXIVRTYF-PMWLIHMRPEHMIWQEKE^MRIWEVSYRHXLI]IEV8VY-P]:MGXSVMERLEZIQSHMJMIHMXXSMRGSVTSVEXIQSHIVRJMKYVIGLEVEGXIVMWXMGWERHGYTWM^IWFYXMXVIXEMRWMXW

SVMKMREPWX]PIERHTVSTSVXMSRW-XLEWEFYMPXMR[EMWXVIHYGXMSRSJGQMR8SFY]XLITEXXIVRKSXSLXXT[[[XVYP]ZMGXSVMERGSQ

A quick reference worksheet is included for each TVSNIGX 9WI XLMW [LMPI ]SY[SVO XS OIIT ]SYVWIPJSVKERMWIH ERH JSGYWWIH8LI WLIIXW GER FI TVMRXIHSJJERHSVGSTMIHERHGYWXSQMWIHJSVSXLIVTVSNIGXW

8:LEWTEXXIVRTMIGIWJEMVP]WXERHEVHMR:MGXSVM-ERGSVWIXV]8LIMRWXVYGXMSRWKMZIRMRXLITEXXIVRIR-velope make a double layered corset (like the ;LMXI'SYXMP'SVWIX,S[IZIV JSV XLI6IH7MPO'SVWIX I have converted the instructions to make a single layer GSVWIXF]EHHMRKJEGMRKWEXXLIFEGOERHJVSRX-LEZIEPWSEHHIHE JVSRXQSHIWX]TERIPXSFSXLZIVWMSRW See over for an image of the TV110 pattern.

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M A K I N G A C O R S E T

making a single layer corset: the red silk corset

Here we are making a single layer corset using fash-ion fabric (silk) flatlined to a coutilPE]IV8LMWMWEFE-WMGQIXLSHSJGSVWIXGSRWXVYGXMSR*SVEQSVIFE-WMGGSRWXVYGXMSR]SYGSYPHYWINYWXGSYXMP[MXLSYXEfashion fabric, in which case simply ignore the parts of these instructions that deal with the silk, and fol-low ;SVOWLIIX

*EGMRKWEVIEHHIHXSXLITEXXIVRFIGEYWIXLMWMWIW-WIRXMEPP]EWMRKPIPE]IVQIXLSHWSXLIVIMWRSPMRMRK

&SRI GEWMRKW are sewn to the inside of the corset over the seams and stitched through all layers (the silk is too delicate to take bones sandwiched be-X[IIRMXERHXLIGSYXMP

The instructions here assume that you have made a toile of the corset beforehand, to ascertain fit and EPXIVXLITEXXIVRMJRIGIWWEV]

Print out ;SVOWLIIX. Use it to organise your work.

Tracing and altering the pa!ern

%WGIVXEMR]SYVWM^IJVSQXLIpattern envelope, trace the pattern pieces accordingly then add the extra pieces (facings and front modesty panel) required to QEOIXLIGSVWIXMRXSEWMRKPIPE]IVGSRWXVYGXMSR

8SQEOIXLIJVSRXERHFEGOJEGMRKWGYXVIGXERKYPEVTMIGIWSJJEWLMSRJEFVMGERHGSYXMPTMIGIWMRXSXEPSR XLI WXVEMKLX KVEMR8LI VIGXERKPIW WLSYPH FI XLIsame length as the centre front/centre back edges SJXLIGSVWIXERHGQMR[MHI8LMWMRGPYHIWWIEQEPPS[ERGIW*SVXLIJVSRXQSHIWX]TERIPGYXETMIGIGQETTVS\MR[MHIERHXLIWEQIPIRKXLas the centre front/centre back edges of the corset (see instructions on busk insertion)

-J ]SY EVIQEOMRKSRISJ XLI PEVKIV WM^IW ]SYQE]need extra bone channels running down the centre SJTMIGIWERHXLI[MHIWXTMIGIW1EVOXLIQSRXLITEXXIVRTIVTIRHMGYPEVXSXLI[EMWXPMRI

1EOIEtoile from calico or other cheap but sturdy JEFVMG*MX]SYVXSMPIERHRSXIER]JMXXMRKMWWYIW'SR-firm that any extra bone channels are in the right TPEGIW 1EVO ER] EPXIVEXMSRW SR FSXL ]SYV QEWXIVTEXXIVRERH]SYVXVEGIHTEXXIVR;LIR]SYEVIEFWS-PYXIP]LETT][MXLXLIJMXERHLEZIQEHIEHNYWXQIRXWMJRIGIWWEV]MXMWXMQIXSGYXERHQEVOXLIJEFVMG

The single layer corset, made of red silk flatlined to coutil

)!

End NotesIf I could convey only one piece of knowledge about the art of corsetry, it would be that cor-WIXQEOMRKMWZIV]QYGLERMRHMZMHYEPWNSYVRI]All corset makers professional or otherwise have their own ways of doing things, devel-oped through their particular experience and ORS[PIHKI

2SX[SGSVWIXQEOIVW[SVOMRXLIWEQI[E]SVYWIEPPXLIWEQIXIGLRMUYIW-XMWRXEFSYXcompetition; its simply about what works FIWXJSVXLIQEOIVWERHXLIMVTVSHYGXW8LIVIEVIRSVYPIWSRP]KYMHIW

&IMRWTMVIHF]SXLIVWFYXRIZIVFIEJVEMHXSI\TPSVIERHI\TIVMQIRX9WIQ]JEZSYVMXIVI-WSYVGIWKMZIRLIVIXSI\TERH]SYVLSVM^SRW

books for techniques and inspiration

Corsets and Crinolines,2SVEL;EYKL6SYXPIHKI

Waisted Efforts: An Illustrated Guide to Corset Making,6SFIVX(S]PI7EVXSVMEP4VIWW

Corsets: A Cultural History, :EPIVMI7XIIPI=EPI9RMZIVWMX]TVIWW

Corsets: Historic Patterns & Techniques,.MPP7EPIR&EXWJSVH

Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear,%RR,EKEV.SLR;MPI]

Corsets: A Modern Girls Guide, :IPHE0EYHIV%'&PEGO

Underwear Fashion in Detail,)PIVM0]RR:%

Foundations of Fashion, The Symington Corsetry Collection, 18601990, 4LMPPMT;EVVIR0IMGIW-XIVWLMVI1YWIYQW

The Fashionable Lady in the 19th Century, 'LEVPIW,+MFFW7QMXL:%

Forties Fashion and the New Look,'SPMR1G(S[IPP&PSSQWFYV]

Bound to Please: A history of the Victorian Corset,0IMKL7YQQIVW&IVK

Jul ia Bremble

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Julia owns and runs the popular online shop 7I['YVZ]'SVWIXV],IVIWLIWIPPWGSVWIXmaking and sewing supplies for the home corsetiere and crafter and provides free EHZMGISRLS[XSQEOIEGSVWIX

.YPME&VIQFPIMWEPWSXLIHIWMKRIVbehind 1EVQEPEHI/MWWthe be-WTSOIGSVWIXV]WIVZMGI

Trained in pattern cutting for fashion, Julia is a self taught cor-setiere who has applied a study of anthropometrics to her unique brand of corsetry in order to create exceptionally well fitted and comfortable corsets for the QSHIVR[SQER

Specialising in, but not limited to corsetry, Julia works alone from her home studio in Oxfordshire, 9/&]REXYVIETIVJIGXMSRMWXWLIworks locally and further afield, creating corsets or outfits for any SGGEWMSR

Julia teaches corsetry and dress-QEOMRKMR3\JSVHWLMVI9/ERHwrites a sewing blog recording her professional and recreational sewing pursuits, including pattern GYXXMRKERHHVIWWQEOMRK

Read all about it at The House of 1EVQEPEHI

ContentsUsing this ebook: tipsIntroductionwhy make a corset?

Brief HistoryHow a Corset WorksEssential Toolsmeasuring tools

Essential Hardwarethe buskeyelets

Building a Frameworkworking with bones

Fabricationnotes on fabric grainfabric preparation before cuttingsupporting structure

Sewing Techniquesbone casings and channels

Vital Underpinningstaking measurementsputting on your corset toile

Making a Corsetmaking a single layer corset:

the red silk corset

End Notesbooks for techniques and inspiration

Julia Bremble