1910 #9 Corset-Undershirt -- Corset-Brassiere
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1910 #9 Corset-Undershirt -- Corset-Brassiere It is essential to have a corset well made, first in order to be held quite straight, then to support well in place [under] pants and petticoats from there. The drawing #1 is that of the corset-undershirt finished and set up on the doll or the child. The figure #2 gives us: #1 The pattern of half of the corset; #2 The pattern of the shoulder strap, small band marked a, b; #3 The detail of the work of the closed backstitch. If it is a matter for the doll you can take a piece of ordinary calico, because you know our agreement: never bother your mothers to have what they cannot or what they do not want to give. But, in general, a corset-brassiere is made with gray or white drill. You will copy the pattern quite exactly, because the cut of a corset does not support with imperfection, and after having cut out the copy, you will place it on the drill or the calico, folded double, by putting the dotted line where are these words “devant droit-fil” [front on the straight-thread] edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. Cut all around, except for this side. The scissors should not touch the fold. Open your fabric. You have the corset, but only half, because it should be doubled. You will thus cut out a double in everything the same as the first, will put them well the one on the other by maintaining them with basting. Now, you will make the backstitching at the places indicated, that-is-to-say on the chest (see fig.1, sketch of the garment) and in the back on the two sides. The detail of the work of the closed backstitch which you are given in figure 2 shows you quite clearly that there are two fabrics the one on the other and the way in which the closed backstitch is made. When the corset is stitched you bind it with a ribbon of percale and place the buttons which are four in number, two on each side. You incise then four buttonholes, two larger in the same corset at the places indicated, and two smaller at the ends of the side straps. Those must be of the size wanted to fit the buttons. Prepare the shoulder strap. It is a strip of cloth doubled and bound with a percale ribbon. You place them by a backstitching, their points A and B with points A and B of the corset.
Transcript of 1910 #9 Corset-Undershirt -- Corset-Brassiere
1910 #9 Corset-Undershirt -- Corset-Brassiere It is essential to have a corset well made, first in order to be held quite straight, then to support well in place [under] pants and petticoats from there. The drawing #1 is that of the corset-undershirt finished and set up on the doll or the child. The figure #2 gives us: #1 The pattern of half of the corset; #2 The pattern of the shoulder strap, small band marked a, b; #3 The detail of the work of the closed backstitch. If it is a matter for the doll you can take a piece of ordinary calico, because you know our agreement: never bother your mothers to have what they cannot or what they do not want to give. But, in general, a corset-brassiere is made with gray or white drill. You will copy the pattern quite exactly, because the cut of a corset does not support with imperfection, and after having cut out the copy, you will place it on the drill or the calico, folded double, by putting the dotted line where are these words “devant droit-fil” [front on the straight-thread] edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. Cut all around, except for this side. The scissors should not touch the fold. Open your fabric. You have the corset, but only half, because it should be doubled. You will thus cut out a double in everything the same as the first, will put them well the one on the other by maintaining them with basting. Now, you will make the backstitching at the places indicated, that-is-to-say on the chest (see fig.1, sketch of the garment) and in the back on the two sides. The detail of the work of the closed backstitch which you are given in figure 2 shows you quite clearly that there are two fabrics the one on the other and the way in which the closed backstitch is made. When the corset is stitched you bind it with a ribbon of percale and place the buttons which are four in number, two on each side. You incise then four buttonholes, two larger in the same corset at the places indicated, and two smaller at the ends of the side straps. Those must be of the size wanted to fit the buttons. Prepare the shoulder strap. It is a strip of cloth doubled and bound with a percale ribbon. You place them by a backstitching, their points A and B with points A and B of the corset.
To put on the corset, one makes pass one of the side straps through the large buttonhole and one fastens the small buttonholes of the side straps to the buttons. There is only one of the large buttonholes always in use. When it begins to wear out, one changes to the other. For the mothers, the pattern of the undershirt will be 80cm. – To give the waist measurement and the height of the underarms to the waist. Translation copyright 2011 Deirdre Gawne. Not for sale. www.dressingbleuette.com
