CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIA L · Le Bon Marché’s new beauty area, Paris Oonagh...

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CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL

The lure of prestige The buzz 2News roundup

Netwatch 6Social media monitor

Interview 7Sensai Cosmetics president Yuji Naito

Insight 9Russian travelers

Show review 11MakeUp in Paris

Store visit 13Le Bon Marché’s new beauty area, Paris

Oonagh PhillipsEditor in [email protected]

www.bwconfidential.com The inside view on the international beauty industry July 9 - August 26, 2015 #115

News headlines daily on www.bwconfidential.com @BWCbeautynews

The next issue of BW Confidential will be

published on August 27, 2015

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Unilever’s strategy to get back into prestige beauty seems to be taking shape. Since March, the group has acquired four

selective prestige brands: Murad, Dermalogica, Kate Somerville Skincare and Ren. This comes on top of France-based skincare company Ioma, in which Unilever took a majority stake in 2013. Most of these newly acquired brands are relatively small,

which has seen some analysts point to the investment and time needed to build critical mass for each individual company. They ask whether the group would have been better taking over a large skincare brand, which could have furnished it with a strong

position in prestige almost immediately. However, the acquisition of Dermalogica with its $240m in sales was welcomed by analysts. Unilever’s interest in prestige skincare is no doubt motivated by the segment’s high

margins and growth predictions for the category, especially in regions like Asia. However, several parallels have been drawn between the Anglo-Dutch group and another consumer-goods company, P&G. Just as Unilever is looking to re-enter prestige beauty (it exited the category in 2005 through the sale of Unilever Cosmetics International, which marketed fragrance brands such as Calvin Klein and Chloé), P&G is in the process of selling most of its luxury cosmetics and fragrance business. P&G has been described as having had a hard time dealing with prestige brands, which is worlds away from selling nappies and washing powder. The jury is now out on whether Unilever will do much better. BW Confidential will be taking a break for the summer. We will be back with

more news, analysis and commentary on August 27.


www.bwconfidential.com - July 9 - August 26, 2015 #115 - CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL

News roundup

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Continuing its skincare acquisition spree, Anglo-Dutch group Unilever is to buy Los Angeles-based Murad. Founded in 1989, Murad is one of the industry’s doctor brands. The brand, which reported sales of $115m in 2014, is distributed in professional salons and spas, in retailers such as Sephora and Ulta in the US and through the direct-sales channel. Murad is also distributed in department stores, pharmacies, spas and salons in more than 42 countries. Murad will be incorporated into Unilever’s Prestige division, which is dedicated to select premium personal care brands.The deal comes just one week after Unilever said it would

buy Dermalogica, the US-based professional skincare brand. Dermalogica, which was founded in 1983, is sold in salons and spas in 80 countries and reported sales of $240m in 2014. It also follows the group’s purchase of Kate Somerville Skincare in May, UK-based skincare brand Ren in March and France-based skincare company Ioma in 2013. Unilever says that these recent acquisitions position the company as a key player in the prestige personal-care segment.

Japanese group Shiseido has set up a joint venture with distributor Aura Beau in Indonesia in a move to strengthen its professional business in Asia. Aura Beau is the distributor of Shiseido’s Professional brand in Indonesia. Shiseido has a 65% share in the venture, which is called PT Shiseido Professional Indonesia, while Aura Beau holds the remaining 35%. Shiseido Professional began business in Indonesia in December 2013. In December 2014, Shiseido structured its business into four groups: Prestige,

Cosmetics, Personal Care and Professional. Its brands are currently being repositioned in the new structure. For the Professional business, Shiseido is looking to boost the international reach of Shiseido Professional and Joico.

German manufacturer of brushes and applicators Geka Group has acquired fellow German company Oeka, a manufacturer of plastic and metal components. Geka said that its aim with the acquisition is to create a German champion that operates globally and is specialized in the production of applicators. Geka plans to invest millions to upgrade Oeka’s technology and will retain Oeka’s 220 employees. n n n

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n Unilever to buy Murad

n Shiseido creates joint venture in Indonesia

n Interparfums launches new fragrances for Paul Smith and Karl Lagerfeld

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n n n Fragrance house Givaudan unveiled a project called Bloom where it asked its perfumers to come up with new interpretations of scents based on florals. The project, presented to clients in June, involved 15 of the company’s perfumers in Paris, 12 in New York and four in São Paulo. The perfumers were asked to create fragrances based on the idea of Bloom, a concept that the company says represents femininity, radiance, nature and diffusion. “The idea that we shared with perfumers was how to renew the market and come up with new things, so we asked whether there is an olfactive trend that is missing today. For years, the market has been dominated by gourmand notes as well as by woody and spicy notes—it is perhaps a reflection of years of crisis. But the idea of bloom has been abandoned and we heard from consumers that there was a need to explore this,” comments Givaudan fine fragrance creative centre director EAME François Bousquet. The company said that the idea of bloom can be seen in a range of other sectors such as fashion, design and art, which were used as inspiration. The project gave perfumers free rein to create a fragrance without worrying about

commercial pressures, and they were also able to use Givaudan’s new palette of molecules. In Paris, 30 fragrances were created based on the Bloom theme. These were classified into five scent universes: Blooming (nature and spring), Ephemeral (representing a moment suspended in time), Elsewhere (travel and exoticism), Skin (sensation of scent on the skin) and Nectar (intoxication).

France-based fragrance house Créassence, which celebrated its 15th anniversary in June, continues to diversify its offer. The company, which specializes in fragrances for niche brands, now also creates olfactory signatures and scent logos for companies as well as organizing seminars to teach fragrance composition to clients. Last year, the company launched a fragrance brand called Parfumoi. The concept allows consumers to create a customized fragrance online based on 10 questions about his or her tastes and personality. A 50ml scent costs €80 and the company has just launched a 12ml fragrance option for €18. The service aims to allow consumers to have a personalized fragrance at an accessible price.

Retail

Middle East retail and distribution company The Chalhoub Group is to open a new concept store called Tryano in Yas Mall, Abu Dhabi in October. The three-level store will be divided into

three main areas for beauty, handbags and children’s products. It will also be home to a spa for women and children and offer concierge and personal shopping services. Yas Mall was opened in 2014 and covers

20,000m2 (215,278ft2). n n n

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Interparfums is to launch a new men’s and women’s duo for the Karl Lagerfeld brand this fall. Called Private Klub, the fragrances are intended to convey the spirit of a young couple at a private party. The women’s scent, by Sophie Labbé of IFF is a floral oriental, while the men’s fragrance, created by Nicolas Beaulieu of IFF is a spicy woody. The fragrances come in square glass bottles—gold for the women’s and silver for the men’s—and feature a metal ring at the neck. Interparfums launched its first fragrances for Karl Lagerfeld in March 2014. The duo will launch in October (in France exclusively at Galeries Lafayette

and the BHV Marais department store in Paris and at Karl Lagerfeld boutiques). The women’s scent retails at €30 (25ml EdP), €45 (45ml EdP) and €65 (85ml EdP). The men’s fragrance is priced at €45 (50ml EdT) and €65 (100ml EdT).

Interparfums will also launch a new men’s fragrance for fashion designer Paul Smith this fall. Called Essential, the fragrance is a woody aromatic composed by Hamid Merati-Kashani of Firmenich. The launch will be supported by a black and white ad campaign featuring British model, actor and singer James Rousseau. Paul Smith Essential is launching in September 2015. The fragrance is priced at €35 (30ml EdT), €45 (50ml EdT) and €60 (100ml EdT).

France-based Cofinluxe is to launch the first fragrance for cycling competition Le Tour de France. The fragrance is a spicy aromatic by Henri Bergia of Expressions Parfumées. It comes in a rectangular glass bottle with the Le Tour de France logo. The fragrance will launch in mass distribution in June. The 100ml EdT retails at €14.90.

Estée Lauder Companies-owned Darphin is introducing a new texture for its 8-Flower Nectar essential oil, which first launched in 2007. The brand has come up with an oil-cream texture for the product, which is hoped will attract new consumers to the brand who do not feel comfortable using oil. 8-Flower Nectar Oil Cream is a night cream that is said

to transform into an oil upon application to the skin. It contains the eight essential oils in the original product, two varieties of shea butter and Brazilian tapioca. The new cream will launch in October and retails at €80 for a 30ml pot.

Japanese skincare brand Menard has launched a new facial skincare range that it claims fights against photoaging. Called Saranari, the range consists of seven products priced from €87 to €143. n


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BRASIL THE ONLY LAT IN AMER ICAN EXH IB IT ION EXCLUS IVELY DED ICATED TO COSMET ICS AND PERSONAL CARE INGRED IENTS

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Learn from industry experts during the Technical Workshops, Innovation Seminars and Marketing Trends sessionsDiscover products and services by following the new: Testing & Regulation and Fragrance Trails

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BW Confidential reports on what’s being said about beauty on social networks

Social media monitor

Custom blending fragrance brands like Fred Segal’s The Blend Custom Fragrance Kit have created a buzz on the internet, and writers predict they could usher in a big fragrance trend. The Blend Kit comprises fragrance oils in roller-ball format, which can be blended according to recipes by layering them onto the skin to create different scents.

Lip plumping continues to be a hot topic in beauty. Started by the hype around the Kylie Jenner Lip Challenge that swept social media, stars such as Lady Gaga and Jessica Alba have since posted selfies using collagen jelly lip masks. The masks, which are liked for being non-invasive, are hailed as the next big beauty trend coming from Asia.

Beer maker Carlsberg’s new Carlsberg Beer Beauty line for men has surprised bloggers, who see the launch as a sure way to capture men’s attention. However, the cost of the limited-edition beer-based product trio (shampoo, conditioner and body lotion) is thought to be too expensive—a set of three products retails at €63.

The Korean pre-moisturizing essence trend has hit US drugstores, and consumers are praising launches by US brands like Burt’s Bees and SKII, which are cheaper than the Korean products that are sold in stores like Ulta and Sephora.

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Sensai Cosmetics factfile

l Sales 2014: +2.6% vs 2013l Distribution: 4,400 pos;

34 markets in Europe and eight markets in the Middle East

l Product category split: 65% skincare; 25% make-up;

10% haircare and bodycarel Key lines: Cellular Performance; Ultimate

Sensai Cosmetics president Yuji Naito

Japanese group Kanebo Cosmetics created a separate division for its Sensai brand in 2014. Having repositioned Sensai, the company is now looking to develop it internationally. Sensai Cosmetics president Yuji Naito tells BW Confidential about his plans to do so

Brand building

In 2014 Kanebo created a separate division for the Sensai brand, Sensai Cosmetics. What was the thinking behind this? Kanebo launched Sensai in 1983, and 1989 was a turning point for the brand when the company launched the Sensai Ex La Crème, which was one of the most expensive creams on the market at that time, retailing at £230 ($359). From 2011, we began shifting the branding from Kanebo International to Sensai, which could be seen in our products, advertising, counters and promotions; in 2012 we created a new product design. The big move came in 2014 when we decided not to use the Kanebo name at all on our products and communication and just focus on Sensai, and we created the company Sensai Cosmetics. We also launched a new counter design using just the Sensai name. The reason for creating Sensai Cosmetics is that Sensai is something very unique in

Kanebo’s portfolio, and we needed to define its brand positioning and implement global marketing and we needed to do this separately from Kanebo. Sensai is a super-prestige brand and we needed to differentiate it from Kanebo, whose name appears on a lot of products in Asia. We are aiming for Sensai to become a global brand so we had to clarify it to boost business in existing markets and expand to new markets, such as Asia.

What has been the impact on sales of clarifying the brand position?We needed to increase brand awareness for our consumers and have a unified image of the brand across our products, counters and communication and this has paid off. The market is slowing in Europe, but we saw sales growth of 2.6% in 2014 and we are predicting a CAGR of 3% for the next few years, which is higher than that of the market.

What are your objectives for Sensai?Sensai currently accounts for 5% of Kanebo Cosmetics’ total business. We can’t give figures about our objectives for how big the brand will become, but it is one of Kanebo’s five key brands and a major player in the super-prestige segment. Our aim is for Sensai to become Kanebo’s first true international brand by expanding from Europe to Asia.

How will you do this? We have our two core lines: Sensai Cellular Performance and Sensai Ultimate. We will continue to boost our skincare products in the ultra-premium end of the market. This year we launched the Sensai Cellular Performance Extra Intensive series in February, with two products retailing at €230 and €250, which were very well received by consumers. We will also focus on service and BA interaction with the consumer at the point of sale.

”Sensai Cosmetics president Yuji Naito

Sensai is one of Kanebo’s five key brands and a major player in the super-prestige segment. Our aim is for Sensai to become Kanebo’s first true international brand by expanding from Europe to Asia

“



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w Sensai Cosmetics president Yuji Naiton n n In addition, we plan to expand our brand universe. Sensai has skincare, make-up, bodycare and haircare. Skincare is the main part of our business accounting for 65% of sales, while make-up is 25% of sales and the rest is done in haircare and bodycare. But this year, we will also launch our first fragrance, Sensai The Silk, whose concept is based on silk on the skin and which will come out in September.

Why go into the fragrance category? The brand needs to have a functional and emotional aspect, and the fragrance will help us with this emotional aspect. Last year we clarified our brand positioning and this year is the right time to go into fragrance. The fragrance will launch in all of our markets. The main target with the fragrance is our existing Sensai consumers. We want to increase our visibility at the point of sale and this will be the main way of supporting the fragrance. It is important that our consumers understand and know our new fragrance, so maximizing in-store visibility and sampling are key.

Will you boost marketing investment to increase brand awareness?We are a top premium brand, so advice and our counters are important, rather than advertising, which is an area we don’t really invest too much in. We put our investment in the point of sale and also in training for the BAs. Our investment in our BAs will increase.

Are you looking at expanding distribution and launching in new markets?We are sold through 4,400 doors—220 department stores and the rest are perfumeries. We are distributed in 34 countries in Europe and in eight countries in the Middle East. Our top three markets are Germany, Spain and Italy. We want to increase the doors where we can have high-quality service, but if we can’t provide that service we will cut doors. It is not the number of doors that is important, but the quality. We want to have the right space in-store and improve our presentation and visibility in stores.

Is the US still a focus for Sensai?We were in the US, but last year we withdrew from the market. We reached the conclusion that the market environment did not allow us to do business in the best way. The main channel in the US is department stores, but the country is big and expensive to do business in, so it is difficult to provide training for BAs and good service for consumers. We want to focus our international business on investing in markets with high growth potential, so we decided to shift investment to Asia. In the future, we may go back to the US.

What are your plans for Asia? At the moment, Sensai is only in Europe and the Middle East. We are preparing to launch in Asia in a few years and are currently in the market-research phase.

Which markets in Asia will you focus on?For Sensai the most important thing is to achieve good success in one country in Asia and then expand from there to other Asian markets. The first market for Sensai in Asia should be one that will have a strong impact on other Asian countries. n

s In a bid to expand its brand universe, Sensai will launch its first fragrance, The Silk this September

”Sensai Cosmetics president Yuji Naito

For Sensai the most important thing is to achieve good success in one country in Asia and then expand from there to other Asian markets. The first market for Sensai in Asia should be one that will have a strong impact on other Asian countries

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The drop in Russian travelers has hurt the travel-retail market badly. BW Confidential investigates whether spending will return to pre-crisis levels any time soon

Russian fall-outRussian travelers

The decline in Russian travelers has been cited as one of the major problems for the travel-retail beauty industry, and the situation is not set to get better any time soon.

According to market research firm Euromonitor International, Russian travel saw a 15% contraction in 2014. “This downward trend is expected to continue in 2015 as the Russian economy contracted in the first quarter of the year. Consumer confidence fell to its lowest level in six years as a result of the conflict in Ukraine and ensuing international sanctions, compounded by falling oil revenues,” explains Euromonitor International head of travel Caroline Bremner. “Falling outbound Russian demand had a knock-on effect on destinations far and wide, including Turkey, Greece, Switzerland and Thailand,” she adds.A sharp fall in the Russian ruble added to the woes, causing shopping by Russian

consumers to plummet over the past year. M1ndset owner and ceo Peter Mohn remarks: “The ruble was freefalling in 2014. By the beginning of 2015, it was worth a third less against the dollar than six months previously. This alone explains why products priced in US dollars became unaffordable to Russians. The main reason for the decline of duty-free purchases has been the decrease of the ruble versus the dollar and the euro. This has significantly raised the price of airport products compared to downtown.” He continues: “Additionally, the crisis has made Russians more price sensitive. Many who didn’t compare prices before are doing so today. Nowadays duty-free prices are considered relatively unattractive, and many Russians either do not purchase at airports anymore or just buy what is really necessary.”

Assessing the impactFor beauty house Guerlain, the dip in Russian travelers impacted the company on all levels as the brand is strong in Russia in the three categories of fragrance, skincare and make-up. But Guerlain managing director travel retail worldwide Philippe Guitelmann emphasizes that while the decline in Russian spending is definitely hitting the business heavily, it is not easy to assess precisely the level of impact outside Russia. “It is even more difficult to predict what the second half [of the year] will be like considering the fact that one euro is now worth 55 Russian rubles, when it was above 70 in early 2015,” he explains. “Our estimate is that this could cost the global travel-retail market as much as two points of growth this year.”Meanwhile, premium beauty brand La Prairie has felt the effect mainly at destinations

that Russians travel to such as Europe and the Middle East. The business has also suffered in Russia itself as there are fewer passengers there and fewer consumers buying goods. La Prairie vice-president global travel retail Laurent Marteau states: “Airports like Zurich

and Dubai have been impacted due to the ruble difference versus the strong Swiss franc and US dollar. For La Prairie, we have found our higher price-point collections have n n n

”Guerlain managing director travel retail worldwide Philippe Guitelmann

“It is even more difficult to predict what the second half [of the year] will be like considering the fact that one euro is now worth 55 Russian rubles, when it was above 70 in early 2015. Our estimate is that this could cost the global travel-retail market as much as two points of growth this year

credit: istock



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n n n not been affected due to strong consumer loyalty. However, our entry-level collections have been affected slightly. We saw less traffic to our stores between December and March this year.”La Prairie did not go down the discount route to compensate for the fall-out. Instead,

it continued to focus on providing services and personalized experiences for consumers. “We have also increased the prices on local markets by around 20% for the travel- retail segment to be competitive again,” says Marteau. “In Western Europe, the lower euro is bringing new customers to the brand and we have been able to counter the impact elsewhere.”Guerlain’s Guitelmann maintains that it is harder to paper over the cracks when

high spending consumers such as the Russians no longer splurge. “There is no way to compensate when you have such a huge drop of customers who simply stop buying,” he insists. “We have been very quick at assessing the situation and the various scenarios, and we have adjusted our strategies and budget to minimize the impact. However, we decided we should not make major changes as we know this is one of those currency crises that are part of travel-retail life. Plus there are other regions or nationalities where we are enjoying strong growth and positive momentum.”Elsewhere, travel retailers such as Dubai Duty Free have said that the decline in Russian

passengers has resulted in a 46% drop in beauty sales to Russian consumers. The drop in Russian passengers, who previously accounted for 13% of its beauty customers, is a major challenge. While Russian travelers have shown a decrease in their spending over the first four months of 2015, attractive price discounts and strong promotional activities are helping to drive the business, as are travel-retail exclusives.

Young travelersBut how much worse can the situation get? Much will depend on a mix of economic, political and currency factors, making business difficult to forecast. Almost 30% of Russians are flying internationally less frequently than in 2013 and there is a higher proportion of travelers claiming their travel frequency will reduce in 2015 compared with 2014, according to The Russian International Traveler and Shopper survey released by market research firm CiR last month. The adverse effect on international travel frequency is likely to continue in the short term. However, there are some reasons for optimism, as the report indicates that a segment of

younger Russian passengers are planning to increase their foreign travel over the next few years. “Half of Russians claim their spend in duty free will increase in the future, bolstered by increasing numbers of younger travelers gaining access to desirable products,” states the report. Indeed, many players are confident that Russian travelers are irrepressible and that they

will bounce back soon. La Prairie’s Marteau states: “The situation is improving since the ruble is set to strengthen and tourism predictions are strong for the summer. It will take some time for the economy and currency in Russia to normalize, but as we have seen in the past, the Russians have proven resilient and are able to rebound quicker than some other nationalities.”Guerlain’s Guitelmann however, is prudent on the matter, which sums up the mood of

most. “We are seeing some better trends and now expect a rebound in the second half, but we remain cautious and we are not convinced at this stage that Russian spending in travel-retail will go back to pre-crisis levels soon.” Watch this space. n

”La Prairie vice-president global travel retail Laurent Marteau

“The situation is improving since the ruble is set to strengthen and tourism predictions are strong for the summer. It will take some time for the economy and currency in Russia to normalize, but as we have seen in the past, the Russians have proven resilient and are able to rebound quicker than some other nationalities



MakeUp in Paris proved to be a hit once again this year. The sixth edition of the show devoted to make-up formulation, packaging and trends welcomed 126

exhibitors and 3,200 visitors, 28% of whom were from outside France. But more than the numbers, exhibitors commented on the quality of visitors and added that real business was done at the show. “Our objective is not to have thousands of visitors, but to have a quality show; with 3,000 visitors we are covering this market niche,” MakeUp in Paris co-founder Jean-Yves Bourgeois tells BW Confidential. “This year we have proved that the show is now well established. The success of the show is a reflection of the market, where more make-up formulas are now outsourced and companies are looking for more value from their packs,” he adds. New features at this year’s show included the Innovation Tree, whereby products showcased at the event were selected by a committee of beauty experts and displayed on a tree. Key trends seen at the show included the continued interest in make-up cushion

products, and increased demand for two-in-one and portable make-up items. There was also a big focus on applicators. “Brands are concentrating more on applicators; they are a focus for young people and are a major way for brands to differentiate themselves,” says supplier Cosmogen general manager Renaud van den Berg. In addition, many suppliers pointed to the trend for eye art or creating special make-up effects around the eyes, similar to the nail art trend that hit the market several years ago. Also in terms of tools, consumers are demanding more professional, make-up artist-

like products that will enable them to recreate specific looks seen on blogs. Indeed, many highlighted the influence of bloggers and web tutorials on market trends. Exhibitors also pointed to the strength of the contouring trend and eyebrow products.

BW Confidential reports on what was seen and heard at the MakeUp in Paris trade show, which took place from June 18-19

Color on show

MakeUp in Paris

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Seen in show Aptar Beauty + Home showcased Serumony Nude Touch (pictured). This 10ml pen-like airless system can be used for foundation and concealer for on-the-go touch ups. The dispenser has a button at the top, which when pressed delivers a precise dose of formula. Aptar has pinpointed make-up as a strategic area of development, and says it has strong ambitions to gain visibility in the sector.

Cosmogen presented a wide range of applicators for the eyes and lips at the show. The Eye Art range (pictured), responds to increased consumer demand to create special effects around the eyes. Cosmogen’s Eye Art range comprises seven applicators with different tips for different effects and motifs: dots, triple lines and thick and thin lines. Also on show was the make-up remover range, a line of applicators that can be used to correct n n n

MakeUp in Paris Took place: in Paris from June 18-19Exhibitors: 126Visitors: 3,200


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n n n imperfections that have been made when applying make-up. It includes different tips for touch-ups and corrections, such as for outlining the lips or removing mascara. In addition, the company presented make-up cushion items (pictured), where the aim is to offer this technically complex product at a lower cost. Cosmogen has come out with a middle-sized cushion (15g) for foundation and a mini cushion (5g) for eyeshadow, lipgloss or blush.

France-based Strand Cosmetics Europe has taken the rose as its theme for 2015 and developed a string of products around the flower. The company unveiled a rose mask at the show, which includes fragments of rose petals and claims to provide a regenerating effect for the skin. It also showcased a rose powder (pictured), which is scented and is said to offer consumers a new way of applying perfume. In addition, it presented a finisher skincare product, which the company claims is a new category of product that finishes off the skincare routine and provides a glowy complexion.

German company Geka presented its Marsala Summer collection, after Pantone’s color of the year, marsala. The collection comprises five products, including two new items. The Smooth Passion mascara brush (pictured) has extra sensitive fibers to provide volume and a wedge-shaped fiber end for separating lashes. Also new is miniPerfector (pictured), an applicator for eyebrow products. The applicator has bristles on one side only and is said to define the brow with one stroke. It is also claims to give a precise dose of formula.

German company OekaBeauty unveiled its Beauty Stylist Applicator (pictured). The applicator has a triangular-shaped tip, which can be used to create thin lines or thick shapes. The pen format is said to provide precision and the tip is described as soft and flexible. The applicator was developed in conjunction with make-up artist Max Herlant, and can be used for blush, lipgloss, concealer, eyeshadow and brow powder.

Topline Products showed a complete range of brushes at the show. The range (pictured) comprises almost 20 brushes. It includes a double–ended brush with one end made from natural hair for strong adherence of the powder to the brush, while the other end is made from synthetic fiber for application; a smoky eye range consisting of five different brushes, and a brush with a triangular-shaped handle for a better grip and precision when applying foundation. All Topline’s brush handles can made from plastic, metal or wood and can be lacquered or decorated with textiles and leather. The company recently acquired a factory that produces brushes near Beijing in China.

Axilone, part of the Ileos group, presented its One Hand lipstick. The user can flick open the lipstick’s cap and turn the mechanism with one hand, a gesture that is said to be in demand given today’s multi-tasking consumer. The lipstick is made from a single piece, providing an economical solution for brands.

Qualipac subsidiary Priminter (Groupe Pochet) has developed an eco-designed range of packs for make-up. The line includes bamboo palettes and lipstick packs, boxes and sets made from recycled paper and make-up bags made from recycled plastic bottles and organic cotton. Priminter plans to launch a catalogue of eco-designed standard products. n

MakeUp in Paris



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Le Bon Marché new first-floor beauty space

l Opened: June 2015 (official inauguration

September)l Location: Paris, Francel Size: 300m2 (3,229ft2)

l On offer: 120 niche and natural brands, mainly in

skincare and haircarel Special features: nail bar,

express hair styling bar

French department store Le Bon Marché has opened a new beauty area at its Paris store focusing on what it calls an alternative offer and positioned as the

“little grocery store of beauty”. The 300m2 (3,229ft2) area located on the first-floor fashion department focuses

on a range of niche, organic and natural brands, mainly in skincare and haircare. The area is in addition to the store’s main beauty area on the ground floor. “The idea with this new area is to offer an alternative and a new concept of beauty and to bring something different. This new area is also likely to attract younger consumers,” explains Le Bon Marché beauty director Marie-Françoise Stouls. The assortment covers 120 brands. Some 57 of these brands have never been

sold in France before, and 60% are store exclusives. Brands include Björk & Berries, Dr Jackson’s and Pai in skincare and Lissfactor and Sans Ceuticals in haircare. The new area also offers a range of services, including a nail bar by Color Forever and an express hair styling bar in association with the 365c brand. The new beauty area sports a loft-style décor, with red-brick walls, blackened

steel shelves and counters and large mirrors framed by arches. The department also benefits from a generous source of natural light. n

The new beauty space at Paris’ Le Bon Marché puts the focus on natural and niche brands

Alternative beauty



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s The new beauty area sports a loft-style décor, with red-brick walls and blackened steel shelves

s The space hosts a nail bar by Color Forever and an express hair styling bar in association with the 365c brand

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