P R O D U C E D B Y

P R O M O T I O N S

INDIAHALLIE CAMPBELL

TRAVE L L ER PROMOT ION

F ine dining in India today is the fascinating end-product of over 5,000 years of foreign influences, trade relations and colonialisation, all of which has had a marked impact on modern day Subcontinental cuisine. Throw in a handful of the myriad exotic herbs and spices that India is famed for producing, and one has a beguiling culinary tradition just waiting to be explored. And no two regions, as you will read in these pages, are the same. England’s love affair with Indian cuisine began hundreds of

years ago when the East India Company cooks started spicing up the dull dishes of the sahibs with local ingredients. Fast-forward to today and you’ll find chicken tikka masala is now the most popular dish in Britain. But there is much more to Indian cuisine, in India, waiting to be discovered.

Before heading to the Subcontinent, get a taste of fine dining Indian-style here, through a new generation of Indian chefs winning Michelin stars for bringing the tastes of the region to this eager audience. In London, Sriram Aylur (whose Kerala-inspired restaurant QUILON has won a Michelin star every year since opening) reflects a new generation of chefs who are passionate about Indian regional cooking. He reveals ‘the best way to eat in India is to enjoy their home cooking wherever possible, and ask the locals where to dine.’ New restaurant GYMKHANA conjures up such northern Indian delicacies as minced quail kebabs, and MOTI MAHAL chef Anirudh Arora (nominated for Indian chef of the year at the 2013 English Curry Awards) has based his menu on the cuisines found along India’s Grand Trunk Road, for centuries India’s main spice trading route.

The influence of these chefs, with their cookery shows and books, are helping spark a trend in culinary tourism to India. For 2014, homestays, cookery courses and specialist food tours are adding an exciting new dimension to travelling in India. Emerging foodie destinations like northern KERALA, KASHMIR, and HYDERABAD are currently inspiring travellers to get off the beaten track.

a culinary tour

INDIA

THIS IMAGE: SCALLOPS, AS SERVED BY MOTI MAHAL NEAR HOLBORN IN LONDON

WORDS BY HALLIE CAMPBELL

TRAVELLER PROMOTION

a culinary tour

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creamy lassi, crispy fried tandoori fish, and fresh kulchas (a local bread) served w

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day at the Langar ceremony.’

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eat dishes such as wild boar, pheasant and venison are popular. T

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oberoihotels.com w

here top local chefs reveal their secrets. A

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tajhotels.com you can enjoy genuine recipes from

the royal fam

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ashmir

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ing old colonial hill stations like S

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oberoihotels.com, a delightful resort and spa. T

ry a Him

achal thali, a selection of local dishes served on a silver tray. T

he cuisine is softly spiced and aromatic,

featuring buttermilk and yoghurt, w

hich is used in soups like Him

achi kheru or served w

ith the famous kullu trout, caught in the clear m

ountain streams. In the

beautiful Him

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anda Devi, Trisul and Panchachuli sparkle in the crystalline air, you can

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hose gorgeous aw

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excellent cooking

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stunning m

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atic destinations. In summ

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packed adventure destination. Explore the historic capital L

EH, trek along the

caravan trails of the Silk Route past ancient m

onasteries such as Alchi, w

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raft past glaciers and gorges, search for rare snow leopards in H

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enchanting destination enjoying a new-found

prosperity. Stay on a traditional houseboat royalhouseboats.com

on Dal or N

agin lakes. S

UK

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is

an eco-

friendly, beautifully restored houseboat where

you can learn to make a typical K

ashmiri

breakfast of haarisa, lamb cooked overnight in

herbs, and a freshly baked bread called chut.

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as rated as ‘One of the Top 10 Places to Eat in

2013’ by the New

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es, is renowned for

his ability to update traditional dishes. He reveals

that ‘people today are looking for more regional

Indian cuisine. I try to get forgotten dishes back into the lim

elight.’

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ard-winning restaurants for Indian cuisine include V

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RA itchotels.in, and to savour the traditional taste of O

ld D

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rendy places for people-watching are

360º oberoihotels.com, S

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diva-italian.com. D

elhi is famous for its chaat, or street food. For a m

outh-watering

selection, pop by the ever-popular NA

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ain regional cuisines under one roof at K

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MS kingdomofdreams.in.

According to food historian Jonty R

ajagopalan, whose culinary tours of India

greavesindia.co.uk focus on regional specialities: ‘One of the m

ost popular northern cuisines is that of the P

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at NAGARHOLE NATIONAL PARK and mouthwatering seafood from the Mangalore coast. The remote, romantic hill station of COORG now features VIVANTA BY TAJ MADIKERI vivantabytaj.com, a stylish new eco-resort set among coffee plantations where you can try local Kodavan dishes like kumbala, a spicy pumpkin curry.

In MADHYA PRADESH you’ll find many of India’s most enchanting sights, such as the carved stone sculptures of Khajuraho, the Buddhist temples of Sanchi, and the fabled city of Mandu. Stay at AHILYA FORT, mahoutuk.com ancestral home of the renowned Holkar family, perched above the scenic Narmada River. Taste the local snacks, like savoury Bhopali kebabs.

a culinary tour

REGIONAL CUISINES THRIVE ACROSS INDIA’S LESS EXPLORED

CENTRAL AREAS

HEART!OF

INDIA

TRAVE L L ER PROMOT ION

UUJARAT in the far west of the country on the Arabian Sea has a distinguished history as one of India’s great trading centres. It is known as The Jewel of the West. Don’t miss the stunning 11th century Sun Temple of Modhera (there is a dance festival every year here in January), the

traditional villages of Kutch, the capital city AHMEDABAD, home of Mahatma Ghandi’s ashram, and the exquisite Jain temples. Enjoy a stay at the HOUSE OF MG, a 1920’s boutique hotel known for its excellent local cuisine houseofmg.com. Gujaratis are renowned for their vegetarian snacks, like bhel puri, a crunchy blend of puffed rice, lentils, herbs and onion.

HYDERABAD is the buzzing capital of Andra Pradesh ruled from 1720 until 1948 by the fabulously wealthy Nizams. This is the home of biryani, an aromatic dish of marinated meat, usually lamb, slow cooked with rice, infused with herbs, spices and saffron. Stay at the hip PARK HOTEL theparkhotels.com or the fabulous FALAKNUMA PALACE tajhotels.com which brings the luxury-loving glamour of the Nizams to life. KOLKATA (formerly Calcutta) was once the centre of the Colonial British Raj and is now the dynamic capital of West Bengal. The region is famous for the variety of its fish dishes, especially shorshe batar jhaal, a fiery curry made with mustard and green chillies, and mithai, sweets made from milk and cardamom.

KARNATAKA contains such diverse attractions as the booming city of BANGALORE, the royal palaces of Mysore, the 12th century ruins of Hampi, the wild elephants

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: AN AMBASSADOR CAR ON

THE STREETS OF KOLKATA; FALAKNUMA PALACE IN

HYDERABAD; AHILYA FORT IN MADHYA PRADESH;

A TENTED SUITE AT AHILYA FORT; FALAKNUMA PALACE.

BELOW, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EXTERIOR OF

THE FALAKNUMA PALACE; THE POOL AT VIVANTA BY

TAJ MADIKERI IN COORG; CHEESE PANEER WITH GRAVY

TRAVE L L ER PROMOT ION

T he sprawling state of MAHARASHTRA is considered the gateway to southern India. The capital city MUMBAI is the starry-eyed city of dreams for millions of people who come here to find fame, fortune and fun. It’s also the home of Bollywood, the world’s biggest film industry. Gaze at the stately Gateway of India, built to welcome King George V in 1911, across from the iconic Taj Palace Hotel, a favourite meeting place for the capital’s elite. For an in-depth look at Mumbai’s main architectural sights consider going out on foot with BOMBAY HERITAGE

WALKS bombayheritagewalks.com or MUMBAI MAGIC mumbaimagic.com who both run tours throughout the city. This is the place to explore the legendary 4th century Buddhist cave paintings and sculptures at Ellora and Ajanta.

Enjoy eating like a ‘Mumbaiker’ (slang for a resident). Chef Satbir Bakshi at THE OBEROI oberoihotels.com recommends favourite local snacks like pao bhaji (toasted buns with a buttery vegetable hash) and ragda patties (toasted savoury potato cakes with chickpeas) from the vendors along Chowpatty Beach, at the MADRAS CAFÉ, SWATI SNACKS in Tardeo Road or the ELCO PANI PURI CENTRE in Bandra.

a culinary tour

SPICES FROM THE SOUTH INFUSE INDIAN COOKING ACROSS THE

COUNTRY WITH THE FRAGRANCE OF CARDAMOM, THE TANG OF TAMARIND

AND THE SWEETNESS OF CINNAMON

SOUTH!OF

INDIA

The spice plantations of KERALA have been providing cooks with their essential ingredients for centuries. The Keralan cuisine has many influences, especially Syrian Christian and Muslim dishes featuring meat and seafood, while traditional Hindu dishes will usually be vegetarian. Everywhere you’ll find dosas, crispy pancakes made from rice and lentils, dipped into spicy sambar sauce or coconut chutney. Homestays with cookery lessons are a brilliant way to learn the art of Keralan cuisine. In Cochin, NIMMY & PAUL nimmypaul.com and NALINI VERMA keralacuisine.in are renowned for their cooking classes. A unique feature of Keralan cuisine is Ayurvedic cookery, developed over many centuries, which promotes wellness through eating foods that are compatible with your constitution. For a complete Ayurvedic detox, stay at KALARI KOVILIKOM cghearth.com where the chef creates a range of healthy vegetarian dishes from their organic garden.

While Kerala’s beaches and backwaters are well known, the hills of the Western Ghats, with their temples, tea plantations, and lush tropical forests are refreshingly free from mass tourism. The dramatic coast of Bekal in northern Kerala is an unspoilt haven. Stay at the new VIVANTA BY TAJ tajhotels.com with its luxurious pool villas and Jiva Spa. If you can't get to Kerala the next best thing is a cooking master class by Prima Kurien (author of Kerala Kitchen) in Delhi, she can be contacted on QSJNBLVSJFO���@gmail.com.

The state of TAMIL NADU, bordering Kerala, was once the capital of the ancient Chola Dynasty, famous for its art and culture. The temples of TAMIL NADU are among the finest in India, especially the Meenakshi Amman Temple complex in Madurai, a pilgrimage site for 2,500 years, and the Mamallapuram Shore Temple, along the Bay of Bengal, with its centuries-old stone carvings rising from the sand.

TRAVE L L ER PROMOT ION

In CHENNAI (formerly Madras), The Government Museum has an exceptional collection of early Buddhist and Chola bronzes, while historic Fort St George is where the East India Company was launched in 1639. Further afield, explore the unique cuisine of the region of Chettinad with a homestay at THE BANGALA thebangala.com or the 18th century RAJAKKAD ESTATE rajakkadestate.com GOA is known for its colonial Portuguese heritage, laid back vibe and exuberant parties on the endless stretches of white sandy beaches. The northern coast is where the action is, but the quieter south remains true to its traditions and you can still find empty beaches and genuine Goan charm at restaurants like PALÁCIO DE DEÃO palaciododeao.com. Stay at the chic boutique resort ALILA GOA alilahotels.com where you can learn to make such Goan classics as pork sorpotel with chef Edia Cotta at her award-winning restaurant SPICE STUDIO. Dine like the locals at MARTINS CORNER martinscornergoa.com and the UPPER HOUSE in the heart of Goa’s capital city Panjim theupperhousegoa.com.

PREVIOUS PAGE: CUISINE AT THE TAJ

PALACE HOTEL; THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM

RIGHT: PEACEFUL SEATING AREA AT RAJAKKAD IN CHETTINAD: THE EAU

BAR AT THE OBEROI MUMBAI; VIVANTA BY TAJ

INTERIOR IN KERALA; CHURCH IN KERALA’S BACKWATERS; BAGS OF

CINNAMON AT MARKET; MEENAKSHI TEMPLE IN

MADURAI; VIVANTA BY TAJ IN BEKAL

a culinary tour

TRAVE L L ER PROMOT ION

a culinary tour

INDIA

G E T T I N G T H E R E The following airlines fly direct from the UK to IndiaQ�British Airways: BA.COMQ�Virgin Atlantic Airways: VIRGIN-ATLANTIC.COMQ�Jet Airways: JETAIRWAYS.COMQ�Air India: AIRINDIA.COM

W H E N T O G O October-March is ideal. Days are sunny and nights cool. April-June is stifling unless you are in the Himalayas, Kashmir or a hill station. June-September is the Monsoon, with frequent heavy rains.

V I S A I N F O UK citizens need a visa to visit India. For details visit: IN.VFSGLOBAL.CO.UK

I M M U N I S A T I O N A D V I C E For expert medical advice on travel to India visit: FITFORTRAVEL.NHS.UK

M O N E Y ATMs are common but expect to pay a small service charge.Cash is best for shopping in street bazaars. Credit cards are widely accepted.

L E A D I N G I N D I A N H O T E L G R O U P SQ�Oberoi: OBEROIHOTELS.COMQ�Taj Hotels, Resorts & Palaces: TAJHOTELS.COMQ�The Leela: THELEELA.COMQ�The Park: THEPARKHOTELS.COMQ�ITC Hotels: ITCHOTELS.INQ�CGHEarth: CGHEARTH.COMFor luxurious, unique heritage & boutique hotels visit: MAHOUTUK.COM

B E S T N E W H O T E L S 2 0 1 3Q�Park Hyatt, Chennai: Condé Nast Traveller India ‘Hot List’ 2013. CHENNAI.PARK.HYATT.COM (Other new Chennai openings include The Leela Palace and ITC Grand)Q�Atali Ganga, Rishikesh: Condé Nast Traveller India ‘Hot List’ 2013. ATALIGANGA.COMQ�Vivanta By Taj, Coorg, Karnataka: Rainforest retreat high in hills among Coorg’s famous coffee plantations. VIVANTABYTAJ.COMQ�Kempinski Ambience Hotel, Delhi: KEMPINSKI.COMQ�Fairmont, Jaipur: Condé Nast Traveller India ‘Hot List’ 2013. FAIRMONT.COMQ�Le Méridien Mahabaleshwar Resorts and Spa, Maharashtra: New resort in picturesque mountain hill station near bustling city of Pune. STARWOODHOTELS.COM

H O T E L O P E N I N G S T O W A T C H 2 0 1 4Q�Alila Fort Bishangarh: Opening 2014 in a 230 year old heritage fort in Jaipur. ALILAHOTELS.COM Q�Banyan Tree, Cochin, Kerala: Opening 2014 with luxury private pool villas in a tropical resort. BANYANTREE.COMQ�The Westin Bekal Resort and Spa, Kerala: Opening June 2. STARWOODHOTELS.COM

In Rajasthan the luxurious Jawai Leopard Camp opens December 2013 offering a rare chance to see India’s leopards in the wild.SUJANLUXURY.COM

I N D I A S P E C I A L I S T T R A V E L C O M P A N I E SQ�Abercrombie & Kent: ABERCROMBIEKENT.CO.UKQ�Audley: AUDLEYTRAVEL.COMQ�Cox & Kings: COXANDKINGS.CO.UKQ�Equinox: EQUINOXTRAVELINDIA.COMQ�Greaves: Winner of Condé Nast Traveller 2012 Reader Awards’ Best Specialist Tour Operator. GREAVESINDIA.CO.UKQ�Travelworld experiences: Winner, ‘Asia’s Leading Inbound Tour Company’, World Travel Awards 2012. TRAVELWORLDEXPERIENCES.COM

F U R T H E R I N F O R M A T I O NQ�Tourism in India: The official site for India Tourism with information on every aspect of travel in India.TOURISMININDIA.COM

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