Clancy the Dragon - Weebly

Clancy the DragonDesigned by Kate E Hancock

Measurements

Approximately 7 - 8 inches / 17 - 20 cm sitting using a DK weight yarn (excluding horns)

Materials

• 100g of DK weight yarn in Main Colour (Yarn A) – I used Teal(Please note, you may need more than if you are using an Aran or Worsted yarn)

• 50g of DK weight yarn in Contrast Colour (Yarn B) – I used Gold• 4mm (G) crochet hook• 3.5mm (E) crochet hook• 3mm crochet hook (for crochet eyes option)• Yarn or thread for embroidering nose and toes• Small amount of black yarn (for crochet eyes option) or• 2 x 20mm safety eyes • Toy filling• Yarn needle• Stitch markers

Design Notes

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. You can use any yarn and appropriate hook to make this, but be aware that this will directly affect the size of the finished piece. Amigurumis need to be crocheted quite tightly to avoid the stuffing from showing through, so if you use a different weight yarn to the pattern, make sure to use a slightly smaller hook than the yarn recommends. If you are making this for a small child you should use the crochet eyes version and not use safety eyes.

Clancy the Dragon Pattern Copyright ©2014 Kate E Hancock. All Rights Reserved.Www.PatchworkMoose.co.uk of 13

http://Www.patchworkmoose.co.uk/

Abbreviations

st(s)ch schdc dc sl st rndremsc2togsc3tog RSWS

Stitch(es)ChainSingle crochetHalf double crochet Double crochet Slip stitchRoundRemainingSingle crochet 2 stitches together Single crochet 3 stitches togetherRight sideWrong side

5dcCL 5 double Cluster Yarn over hook and insert hook into stitch drawing up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook leaving 2 loops remaining, repeat this 4 more times in same stitch (6 loops left on hook) yo and pull through all 6 loops on hook.

Picot Chain 3 stitches and slip stitch into the 1st chain stitch to close.

* = Repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as indicated in pattern

( ) = Total number of stitches at the end of round

Pattern This pattern contains instructions for making a poseable dragon (with moving legs) or a stationary dragon (with more securely attached legs, this is recommended if you are considering making this for a child).

This pattern is made in a spiral of continuous rounds. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round and move it up to the beginning stitch of each new round as you start it. Use a 3.5mm hook unless the pattern states differently.

Eye Patches – make 2With Yarn BCh2.Rnd 1: 6sc into 2nd ch from hook. (6sts)Rnd 2: 2sc in each st. (12sts) Rnd 3: *(hdc, dc) in next st, (dc, hdc) in next st, sc in next 4 sts* 2 times. (16sts)Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.

Head The head is made from the muzzle to the back.With Yarn AMake a magic ring.Rnd 1: 6sc into ring. (6sts)Rnd 2: 2sc in each st. (12sts)Rnd 3: *2sc in next st, sc in next st* 6 times. (18sts)Rnd 4: 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, 5dcCL in next st, sc in next st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts* 3 times, 2sc in next st, 5dcCL in next st, sc in next st. (24sts)Rnd 5 - 8: sc in each st around. (24sts)Rnd 9: *2sc* 6 times, sc in rem 18 sts. (30sts)Rnd 10: sc in each st around. (30sts)Rnd 11: *2sc in next st, sc in next st* 6 times, sc in rem 18 sts. (36sts)Rnd 12: sc in each st around. (36sts)

Rnd 13: *2sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts* 6 times. (42sts)Rnd 14: sc in each st around. (42sts)Rnd 15: *2sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts* 6 times. (48sts)Rnd 16: sc in each st around. (48sts)Rnd 17: *2sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts* 6 times. (54sts)Rnd 18 - 22: sc in each st around. (54sts)Rnd 23: *sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts* 6 times. (48sts)Rnd 24: *sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts* 6 times. (42sts)Rnd 25: *sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts* 6 times. (36sts)Rnd 26: *sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts* 6 times. (30sts)Rnd 27: *sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts* 6 times. (24sts)Stuff the head.Rnd 28: *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts* 6 times. (18sts)Rnd 29: *sc2tog, sc in next st* 6 times. (12sts)Rnd 30: sc2tog around. (6sts)Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with. Finish stuffing and pass needle repeatedly through all 6 sts, gathering together to close. Fasten off securely.

Crochet Eyes (Optional) - make 2Using black yarn and 3mm hookMake a magic ring.Rnd 1: 6sc into ring. (6sts)Rnd 2: 2sc in each st. (12sts)Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.

1st EyelidWith Yarn BCh7.Row 1: sc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st into last ch st. Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.



2nd EyelidWith Yarn B Ch7.Row 1: sl st into 2nd ch from hook, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st.Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.

Nose and AntennaeWith Yarn BMake a magic ring.Rnd 1: 4sc into ring. (4sts)Rnd 2: sc in each st around. (4sts)Rnd 3: 2sc in each st. (8sts)Rnd 4: sc in each st around. (8sts)Place a second stitch marker in the 6th st of rnd 5 and ignore for now. (This will be your starting point for the second horn later on). Rnd 5: *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts* 2 times. (10sts) Do not fasten off. The antennae will now be worked in two parts, branching from the end of the nose.

1st AntennaeResuming where you left off on the nose,Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sts, skip the rem 5 sts, leaving them unworked. (5sts)Start your next round in the 1st stitch of rnd 6 and continue to work in this new round moving your stitch marker to indicate the start of rounds. Rnd 7 - 28 : sc in each st around. (5sts)Rnd 29: sc2tog, sc in next st, sl st in next st and leave last st unworked. (3sts)Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with. Thread the tail into a needle and pass the needle repeatedly through all 4 sts, gathering together to close. Stitch closed firmly. Modification Tip: If you find working 5sts in the round a bit tricky, you can make a 2sc in the 3rd st of Rnd 6. This will then give you 6sts in the round to work with from rnd 6 onwards, but it will make the antennae slightly thicker. Continue with the pattern to Rnd 27, then on Rnd 28 work a sc2tog to bring you back to 5sts. Repeat this for the 2nd Antennae.

2nd AntennaeJoin yarn at the second stitch marker left on rnd 5 of nose. Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sts. (5sts)Start your next rnd in the 1st stitch of rnd 6 and continue to work in this new round moving your stitch marker to indicate the start of rounds. Rnd 7 - 28 : sc in each st around. (5sts)Rnd 29: sc2tog, sc in next st, sl st in next st and leave last st unworked. (3sts)Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with. Thread the tail into a needle and pass the

needle repeatedly through all 4 sts, gathering together to close. Stitch closed firmly. If there is a hole at the base of the antennae, stitch closed now.

Horns – make 2With Yarn BMake a magic ring.Rnd 1: 4sc in ring. (4sts)Rnd 2: sc in each st around. (4sts)Rnd 3: 2sc in each st. (8sts)Rnd 4 - 5: sc in each st around. (8sts)Rnd 6: sc in next st, 2sc in each of next 2 sts, sc in next st, *sc2tog* 2 times. (8sts)Rnd 7 - 8: sc in each st around. (8sts)Change to Yarn ANote: Start your colour change in the previous stitch. Fasten off Yarn B.Rnd 9: sl st in each sc around. (8sts)(This will make the horns look nice and neat when you stitch them to the head).Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with. Stuff.

BodyWith Yarn A Make a magic ring.Rnd 1: 6sc into ring. (6sts)Rnd 2: 2sc in each st. (12sts)Rnd 3: *2sc in next st, sc in next st* 6 times. (18sts)Rnd 4: *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts* 6 times. (24sts) Rnd 5: *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts* 6 times. (30sts)Rnd 6: *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts* 6 times. (36sts)Rnd 7: *2sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts* 6 times. (42sts)Rnd 8: *2sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts* 6 times. (48sts)Rnd 9: *2sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts* 6 times. (54sts)Rnd 10 - 14: sc in each st around. (54sts)Rnd 15: *sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts* 6 times. (48sts)Rnd 16: sc in each st around. (48sts)Rnd 17: *sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts* 6 times. (42sts)Rnd 18: sc in each st around. (42sts)Rnd 19: *sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts* 6 times. (36sts)Rnd 20: sc in each st around. (36sts)Rnd 21: *sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts* 6 times. (30sts)Rnd 22: sc in each st around. (30sts)Rnd 23: *sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts* 6 times. (24sts)Rnd 24: sc in each st around. (24sts)Rnd 25: *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts* 6 times. (18sts)Rnd 26: sc in each st around. (18sts)Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with. Stuff body firmly.



Arms – make 2The arms contain instructions for making a poseable dragon (with moving arms) or a stationary dragon (with more securely attached arms). Follow the pattern for both arms up to round 20 then finish the arms in whichever way you prefer. The arms involve a colour change in the cluster stitches. These are not stated in the pattern below but you will need to change to Yarn B for every cluster (5dcCL) stitch. Switch back to the main colour for all other stitches. To change colour smoothly start your cluster in the appropriate contrast colour but when you have your 6 loops left on the hook, yarn over with the main colour and pull through all 6 loops on the hook to complete the stitch. When making colour changes, drop the yarn you are not using to the back of your work and pick it up again when you need it, being careful not to pull it too loose or too tight when starting with it again. You will have the tails running behind your work, but this won't be seen in the finished piece, as it will be on the inside.Arms are worked from bottom up.With Yarn AMake a magic ring.Rnd 1: 6sc into ring. (6sts)Rnd 2: 2sc in each st. (12sts) Rnd 3: *2sc in next st, sc in next st* 6 times. (18sts)Rnd 4: *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts* 6 times. (24sts)Rnd 5: *5dcCL, sc in next 2 sts,* 4 times, sc in rem 12 sts. (24sts) (The clusters will create the toenails)Rnd 6 - 11: sc in each st around. (24sts)Stuff.Rnd 12: *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts* 6 times. (18sts)Rnd 13: *sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts* 2 times. (16sts)Rnd 14 - 20: sc in each st around. (16sts)Stuff firmly.

For a poseable dragon finish arms as follows:Rnd 21- 23: sc in each st around. (16sts)Rnd 24: *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts* 4 times. (12sts)Stuff arm.Rnd 25: *sc2tog* 6 times. (6sts)Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off leaving a tail to sew with. Finish stuffing the arm. Thread the tail into a needle and pass repeatedly through all 6 sts, gathering together to close. Stitch closed firmly.

For a stationary dragon finish arms as follows:The arms are now worked in rows and after turning the instructions will read ch1, this stitch is meant to add height and should not be worked into or included in your stitch count.

Right Stationary Arm - make 1Row 21: sc in next 8 sts, turn. (8sts)Row 22: ch1, sc in next 10 sts, turn. (10sts)Row 23: ch1, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, turn.(8sts)Row 24: ch1, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, turn. (6sts)Row 25: ch1, *sc2tog* 3 times, work 4 sc across the row edge, sc into each of next 6 sts, work 4 sc across the row edge. (17sts) Sl st to 1st st and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.

Left Stationary Arm – make 1Row 21: sc in next 14 sts, turn. (14sts)Row 22: ch1, sc in next 10 sts, turn. (10sts)Row 23: ch1, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, turn. (8sts)Row 24: ch1, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, turn. (6sts)Row 25: ch1, *sc2tog* 3 times, work 4 sc across the row edge, sc into each of next 6 sts, work 4 sc across the row edge. (17sts)Sl st to 1st st and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.

Legs – make 2The legs contain instructions for making a poseable dragon (with moving legs) or a stationary dragon (with more securely attached legs). Follow the pattern to round 21 for both legs, then finish the legs in whichever way you prefer.The legs involve a colour change in the cluster stitches. These are not stated in the pattern below but you will need to change to Yarn B for every cluster (5dcCL) stitch. Switch back to the main colour for all other stitches. Legs are worked from foot up.With Yarn AMake a magic ring.Rnd 1: 6sc into ring. (6sts)Rnd 2: 2sc in each st. (12sts)Rnd 3: *2sc in next st, sc in next st* 6 times. (18sts)Rnd 4: *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts* 6 times. (24sts) Rnd 5: *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts* 6 times. (30sts)Rnd 6: *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts* 6 times. (36sts)Rnd 7: *5dcCL, sc in next 5 sts* 4 times, sc in rem 12 sts. (36sts)Rnd 8 - 10: sc in each st around. (36sts)Rnd 11: sc in next 3 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next st* 6 times, sc in rem 15 sts. (30sts)Rnd 12: sc in next 3 sts, *sc2tog* 6 times, sc in rem 15 sts. (24sts)Rnd 13: *sc2tog, sc in next st* 8 times. (16sts)Stuff foot. Rnd 14 - 21: sc in each st around. (16sts). Stuff leg.



For a poseable dragon finish legs as follows:Rnd 22 - 24: sc in each st around. (16sts)Rnd 25: *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts* 4 times. (12sts)Stuff leg.Rnd 26: *sc2tog* 6 times. (6sts)Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off leaving a tail to sew with. Finish stuffing the leg. Thread the tail into a needle and pass repeatedly through all 6 sts, gathering together to close. Stitch closed firmly.

For a stationary dragon finish legs as follows:The legs are now worked in rows and after turning the instructions will read ch1, this stitch is meant to add height and should not be worked into or included in your stitch count.

Right Stationary Leg – make 1 Row 22: sc in next 7 sts, turn. (7sts)Row 23: ch1, sc in next 10 sts, turn. (10sts)Row 24: ch1, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, turn. (8sts)Row 25: ch1, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, turn. (6sts)Row 26: ch1, *sc2tog* 3 times, work 4 sc across the row edge, sc into each of next 6 sts, work 4 sc across the row edge. (17sts). Sl st to 1st st and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.

Left Stationary Leg – make 1Row 22: sc in next 14 sts, turn. (14sts)Row 23: ch1, sc in next 10 sts, turn. (10sts)Row 24: ch1, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, turn. (8sts)Row 25: ch1, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, turn. (6sts)Row 26: ch1, *sc2tog* 3 times, work 4 sc across the row edge, sc into each of next 6 sts, work 4 sc across the row edge. (17sts). Sl st to 1st st and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.

Foot Shaping Use Yarn A to shape the toes. To shape the toes you will be making three stitches in between the cluster stitches on the feet. With a needle, stitch between the first two cluster stitches, into rnd 2 of the foot, and make a long stitch exiting vertically between rnds 10 and 11. Then stitch again in the same place, looping the yarn around the foot and pulling it tightly. Repeat this stitch a few times and fasten off securely. Repeat these stitches twice more between the other cluster stitches. (See photos on page 12).

Paw Pads – make 2With Yarn BMake a magic ring.Rnd 1: 6sc into ring. (6sts)Rnd 2: 2sc in each st. (12sts)Rnd 3: *2sc in next st, sc in next st* 6 times. (18sts)Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew with. Stitch paw pads to the centre of the feet. (See photos on page 12)

Wings – make 4With Yarn BEach wing is made from two pieces which are then crocheted together to make a firm and more upright wing. The wings are worked in rows and after turning the instructions will read ch1, this stitch is meant to add height and should not be worked into or included in your stitch count.Mark the 11th ch with a stitch marker at the beginning of each wing.Ch13.Row 1: sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st, turn. (12sts)Row 2: ch1, sc in next 9 sts, *2sc in next st* 3 times, turn. (15sts) Row 3: ch1, *2sc in next st* 4 times, sc in rem 11 sts, turn. (19sts)Row 4: ch1, sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in rem 8 sts, turn. (20sts)Row 5: ch1, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st* 2 times, sc in rem 12 sts, turn. (24sts)Row 6: ch1, sc in next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in rem 12 sts, turn. (25sts)Row 7: ch1, *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st* 2 times, sc in next 8 sts, turn (you are leaving the last 5 sts unworked). (24sts)Row 8: ch1, sc in next 7 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in rem 16 sts, turn. (25sts)Row 9: ch1, *2sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, 2sc in next st* 2 times, sc in rem 9 sts, turn. (29sts)Row 10: ch1, sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in rem 20 sts. (30sts). Fasten off.



Chart Stitch Key

Slip stitch

Chain stitch

Single crochet (previous row)

Single crochet (current row)

Half double crochet

Double crochet

Single crochet 3 stitches together

Left Wing Bottom EdgeWith Yarn BPlace two wing pieces together and fasten the yarn to the furthest tip (marked in pink). You will now be crocheting the two pieces together to form one wing, so while working the next row along the bottom edge of the wing, make sure that the stitches are passing through both pieces and joining them both together.

Row 1: Ch2, picot, dc into first st, *hdc into next st, sc into next st, sl st into next 4 sts, sc into next st, hdc into next st, dc into next st, picot, dc into next st* 2 times, hdc into next st, sc into next st, sl st into next 4 sts, sc into next st, hdc into next st, dc into next st, picot and dc back into same st. Sc 2 sts around the post of last dc st, then sc 2 sts along the row edge, sc3tog into the corner of the rows and sc in next 4 sts across the row. (46sts – picots count as 1 st)Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with. (Your wing should now look like photo 1).

Right Wing Bottom EdgeWith Yarn BPlace two wing pieces together and fasten the yarn to the body edge (marked in pink). You will now be crocheting the two pieces together to form one wing, so while working the next row along the bottom edge of the wing, make sure that the stitches are passing through both pieces and joining them both together.Leave a tail at the beginning of the chain to sew with later.

Row 1: sc in next 4 sts, sc3tog into the corner of the rows and sc 2 sts along the row edge. Ch2, picot, dc into first st, *hdc into next st, sc into next st, sl st into next 4 sts, sc into next st, hdc into next st, dc into next st, picot, dc into next st* 2 times, hdc into next st, sc into next st, sl st into next 4 sts, sc into next st, hdc into next st, dc into next st, picot and dc back into same st. (44sts – picots count as 1 st)Fasten off. (Your wing should now look like photo 2).



Left Wing FingersWith Yarn A and 4mm hookStarting at the third picot made and working toward the ch stitch marked earlier, then back down to the second picot made in a 'v' shape, you are working sl st through both sides of the wing.With the right side of the fabric facing you, make a slip knot on your hook and attach the yarn to the third picot.

RS: Sl st into picot, sl st between the dc sts and then again into the base of the dc st, sl st 10 sts across the rows to the marker, ch1 and sl st 10 sts across the rows toward the second picot, sl st into the base between the dc sts, sl st between dc sts, sl st into picot and sl st again outside the picot. (28sts) Do not fasten off. (This side is the inside of the left wing and should look like photo 3).

Change back to 3.5mm hook.

Turn the wing over, you will be working the next row into the running st made by the back of the sl sts.

WS: work 14 sl sts into the back of the previous sts, ch1 and work 13 sl sts back down to picot. (28sts).Fasten off and weave in ends. (See photo 4).

Right Wing FingersWith Yarn A and 4mm hookStarting at the third picot made and working toward the ch stitch marked earlier, then back down to the second picot made in a 'v' shape, you are working sl st through both sides of the wing.With the right side of the fabric facing you, make a slip knot on your hook and attach the yarn to the third picot.

RS: Sl st into picot, sl st between the dc sts and then again into the base of the dc st, sl st 10 sts across the rows to the marker, ch1 and sl st 10 sts down the rows toward the second picot, sl st into the base between the dc sts, sl st between dc sts, sl st into picot and sl st again outside the picot. (28sts)Do not fasten off. (This side is the inside of the right wing and should look like photo 5).

Change back to 3.5mm hook.

Turn the wing over, you will be working the next row into the running st made by the back of the sl sts.

WS: work 14 sl sts into the back of the previous sts, ch1 and work 13 sl sts back down to picot. (28sts).Fasten off and weave in ends. (See photo 6).



Left Wing Top EdgeWith Yarn AWith inside of the wings facing you, join the yarn at the body edge and work across the top of the wing. Make sure that the stitches are passing through both pieces and joining them both together.

RS: sc in next 10 sts, sc into ch sts (joining both together), sc 10 sts along the row edge, sc 2 sts around dc st, sc in picot st, fasten off. (24sts) (See photo 7)

Right Wing Top EdgeWith Yarn AWith the inside of the wings side facing you, join the yarn at the picot and work across the top of the wing. Make sure that the stitches are passing through both pieces and joining them both together.

RS: sc into picot st, sc 2 sts into dc st, sc 10 sts along row edge, sc into ch sts (joining both together), sc in next 10 sts, fasten off. (24sts)(See photo 8).

Tail With Yarn AMake a magic ring.Rnd 1: 5sc into ring. (5sts)Rnd 2: sc in each st around. (5sts)Rnd 3: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (6sts)

Rnd 4: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (7sts)Rnd 5: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (8sts)Rnd 6: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (9sts)Rnd 7: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (10sts)Rnd 8: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (11sts)Rnd 9: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (12sts)Rnd 10: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (13sts)Rnd 11: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (14sts)Rnd 12: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (15sts)Rnd 13: 2sc in next st, sc in rem sts around. (16sts)Rnd 14: *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts* 4 times. (20sts)Rnd 15: sc in each st around. (20sts)Rnd 16: *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts* 4 times. (24sts)Rnd 17: sc in each st around. (24sts)Rnd 18: *2sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts* 4 times. (28sts)Rnd 19: sc in each st around. (28sts)Rnd 20: *2sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts* 4 times. (32sts)Rnd 21: sc in each st around. (32sts)Sl st to 1st st of round and fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with.

Tail pointWith Yarn BMake a magic ring.Rnd 1: 4sc into ring. (4sts)Rnd 2: sc in each st around. (4sts)Rnd 3: 2sc in each st. (8sts)Rnd 4: sc in each st around. (8sts)Place a second stitch marker in the 6th st of rnd 5 and ignore for now. (This will be your starting point for the second point later on). Rnd 5: *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts* 2 times. (10sts) Do not fasten off. The points will be worked in two parts branching from the end of the base.

1st PointResuming where you left off on the base,Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sts, skip the rem 5 sts, leaving them unworked. (5sts)Start your next round in the 1st stitch of rnd 6 and continue to work in this new round moving your stitch marker to indicate the start of rounds. Rnd 7 - 9 : sc in each st around. (5sts)Rnd 10: sc2tog, sc in next st, sl st in next st and leave last st unworked. (4sts)Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with. Thread the tail into a needle and pass the needle repeatedly through all 4 sts, gathering together to close. Stitch closed firmly.



2nd PointJoin yarn at the second stitch marker left on rnd 5 of the base, leaving a long tail to sew with later.Rnd 6: sc in next 5 sts. (5sts)Start your next rnd in the 1st stitch of rnd 6 and continue to work in this new round moving your stitch marker to indicate the start of rounds. Rnd 7 - 9 : sc in each st around. (5sts)Rnd 10: sc2tog, sc in next st, sl st in next st and leave last st unworked. (4sts)Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew with. Thread the tail into a needle and pass the needle repeatedly through all 4 sts, gathering together to close. Stitch closed firmly.

Making Up

If you are using safety eyes, push them through the centre of the eye patches and attach them now. Place the eye patches on the head with the posts of the eyes resting between rnds 12 and 13 of the head, and the centres resting 14 sts apart, inline with the nostrils. Use the photos as guide for placing the patches and stitch them on firmly. Stitch eyelids on making sure to curve them around the eyes.

If you are using crochet eyes, stitch them firmly to the centre of the eye patches. Place the eye patches on the head with the centre of the eyes resting between rnds 12 and 13 of the head, 14 sts apart, inline with the nostrils. Use the photos as guide for placing the patches and stitch them on firmly. Stitch eyelids on making sure to curve them around the eyes.

Place the nose between the nostrils and curve the antennae around the eye patches, as shown in the photos. Stitch them on firmly, leaving the last inch of the antennae (at each of the end points) unsewn and unattached.

Place the horns on top of the head, along rnd 19 and 6 sts apart. Sew to head.

Stuff the body firmly and sew to head along neck edges.

If you are making a stationary dragon stuff the arms firmly and finish stuffing the legs. Sew arms and legs firmly along open edges to either side of body in a standing or sitting position.

If you are making a poseable dragon take a long length of yarn and stitch through the first leg at about 1cm from the top, through the body and into the second leg at about 1cm from the top (see diagram) then stitch back through the second leg, then the body and the first leg in the same place and pull firmly. Repeat these stitches back and forth through the legs and body until legs are securely attached but still movable and fasten off. Repeat this process for the arms attaching them in the same way, below the neck.

Stuff the tail and sew to the lower back. Sew the centre of the tail point to the end of the tail.

Stuff the open edges of the wings (this should make them firm enough to stand by themselves). Attach them just below the neck on the back of the dragon, behind the arms. When you are happy with the placement, stitch on firmly. Weave in any loose ends.



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