THE WAY WE “CIEE” ITFirst Impressions of Thailand

September 2014

While I do feel culturally immersed in an en-vironment that is very foreign to me in Khon Kaen, an equally striking difference I have experienced so far has been my introduction to alternative education. The Development and Globalization (DG) program at CIEE is very unique from my previous educa-tional experi-ences in that it stresses an alter-native approach through its em-phasis on “peo-ple to people” exchanges with villagers, group dynamics, and intrapersonal development. The DG program takes its learning outside of a tra-ditional classroom setting, as each of our units centers around a four to five day homestay with a village. In an Education Discussion activity at a nearby temple the DG students, interns, and teachers reflected on our past educational experiences and attempted to define alternative education. While we were not able to formulate a precise definition, we came to the consensus that experiential learning and an emphasis on student empowerment were important tenants of an alternative approach. Given that I have sometimes felt discouraged and bored in a traditional college lecture setting, I am very excited to discover how I can stretch my mind and find personal growth through an alternative education this semester.

Introduction to Alternative Education

-Catherine Darin, University of Pennsylvania

In Thailand, good food is never far. You can walk down almost any street and find a variety of vendors serving anything from grilled pork and sticky rice to sweet crepes,

or the infamous Pad Thai. The options can be overwhelming, especially for indecisive folks like myself, but regardless of what you choose you’re sure to leave satisfied.Street food is fresh, fast, and usually costs around 35 baht ($1) per dish. Portions can be pretty small compared to the states, but look at it this way; with one dish costing $1 you can get away with choosing sev-eral different dishes without burning a hole in your pocket. But the low prices do not mean low quality; the street vendors specialize in one or a few items so you’re sure to experience the most authentic Thai cuisine.It’s also a great way to interact with the

locals. Aboo, the “fried dough master” has already made it to a special place in our hearts, serving up fresh Roti made to order. Roti is delicious sweet naan-like bread filled with pow-dered sugar, scram-bled egg, and sweet-ened con-densed milk; it’s sweet, warm, and tastes like love. Roti is truly the epitome of a late night snack. Living in Thailand feels like being a kid in a candy store; I

am in constant fascination with all the tempting and delicious foods that surround me.

Meat Sticks,Rice, Pad Thai...Oh My!

- Rosa Keller, Oregon State University

Members of the Fall 2014 Program.

Aboo the beloved Roti maker.

Tips for Temple-ingPeople from all over the world are lured to Thailand by the elaborate Buddhist temples that adorn the nation. As students arriving in Khon Kaen, we were no different. Our second day of orientation, we were all anxious to get to our very first temple overlooking Ubonrat dam. Before we embarked on the 1000 step journey to the top of the temple where the grand, white Buddha sat, there were a few things we had to learn first as foreigners. What many travelers forget is that although these temples are great for sight see-ing, they are still religious sites and there are certain things to be aware of to make the most out of your experience.Buddhism is a very hierarchical religion, even in terms of your own body. Before even stepping into the temple, it is important to take you shoes off. In Buddhism, the feet are considered the dirtiest part of your body so it is disrespectful to wear your shoes into a temple. Along those lines, it would also be consid-ered disrespectful to step over someone. One thing we learned during our orientation was how to show respect in the temples using a special form of the “wai” that involves touching your forehead, elbows and hands to the ground three times in front of the Buddha. It is a very graceful gesture and its great to learn it before going into a temple. This will help you understand what others are doing in the temple and you can even participate yourself. Going to the temples was an amazing experience and we were able to enjoy it even more after learning a few things about Buddhism.

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One of the aspects of Thai life that I find most intriguing and difficult to grasp is the overwhelming presence of the royal family, most notably the King. Pictures of King Bhumibol are everywhere: gracing the entryway into most buildings, hanging all over the mall, and outnumbering even family photo-graphs in Thai homes. And even where pictures of the King are not present there is constant sense of deep, unwavering reverence for him. This reverence for the King seems genuine enough—he has been on the throne for 68 years and exhibits a passion for the wellbeing of his people—and yet the role of the monarchy is a com-plex matter, especially when one considers Thailand’s extremely strict lese-majeste law. Thailand has had a lese-majeste law in place since 1908 that prohibits all forms of insult, slander, or defamation towards any member of the royal family. However, while other countries with similar laws have slack-ened their strictness over time, Thailand has done the opposite. After the 2006 coup the number of lese-majeste cases brought to trial increased by 1500%. Punishment has also become stricter, with a minimum of 3 years in jail and a maximum of 15, in addition to the possibility of a hefty fine. Since arriving in Thailand I have heard horror stories of extreme cases of lese-majeste, from a man being summoned because he wouldn’t stand during the pre-movie salute to the King to a story of a foreign-

er who drunkenly stepped on baht (which carries the picture of the king) and is now facing 15 years in jail.During the 2011 Universal Periodic Review of the United Nations Human Rights Council many countries encouraged Thailand to reconsider the lese-majeste laws under the right to freedom of expression. However, Thailand refused to support

these suggestions, claiming that, “the existence of the lese-majeste law is indispens-able for Thailand as it aims to protect the King as the Head of State.” Attacks against the monarchy are perceived as attacks against the integrity of the country. It sometimes seems as though the deep love for the King is the only

thread binding Thailand together—which may not be entirely inaccurate. Thailand has a dark politi-cal history, and yet through the storm the King has always shone bright and consistent, believed to be above politics. Yet the lese-majeste law, while claiming to hold Thailand together, is also blocking productive discussion about the role of the King in politics and the looming question of succession brought on by his failing health. In the King’s final years the lese-majeste law will be an increasing source of tension among Thai people. As foreign-ers, we must take extra caution to tread carefully to avoid stepping on any toes—or any baht, for that matter.

The King and Thai(land)

It didn’t take long for me to feel it. When coming to Thailand I faced many of the challeng-es that always come with traveling to another country for the first time. A new language, culture, environment. For these reasons it would be very easy to feel uncomfortable. Here, however, is different.I was always encouraged by a smiling face whether it was meet-ing host families, ordering food, or talking to a taxi driver. These people don’t really know us, but they want to help as much as they can. Of course cultural norms were crossed and Thai words were misspo-

ken, but to that we can only laugh. They know that mistakes only make us human. There is

no room for shame or embarrassment, only heart and compassion. Here you

will never be far from someone who wants to share their happiness with you. Thailand has a spirit that loves. It didn’t take long for me to feel it.

Laughing (555)

- Kate Cowie-Haskell, University of Rochester

- Lea Lipowcan, The George Washington

University

555:

The Thai word for the num-ber five is pronounced “ha,”

555 in Thai can be pronounced “hahaha” in slang.

What it Means for Communities to be CommunalOne of the characteristics about Thailand that made a strong impression on me were the tight knit rela-tionships between community members during our first village homestay. Villagers are highly involved in one another’s life on a daily basis, which fosters a sense of belonging between households. Villag-ers walking along the street were welcomed into our host family’s home to sit and chat. All members of the community were welcomed to join our Isaan family-style dinner organized in a circle on the living room floor. Children played with one another, while adults conversed in Thai and Lao. Other students and I soon recognized the difficulty of understanding who formally belonged to our respective host fami-lies. Strangers would come and go at various times

of the day to help out around the house or to engage in casual banter.This welcoming community attitude, characterized by sharing, unexpected friendships, and warmth was incredible to experience. We immediately felt like part of the family. This experience differs greatly from community norms in America where privacy and individualism is highly valued. The closeness between members of the village seems to foster a sense of mutual trust and increases social capital to provide strength and reliability within the community.

- Jenny Dunn, University of Washinton

- Lena Stashko, Tulane University

Nation OrientationAdjusting to life in another country is a difficult and exhausting process. The first few days in a new place can be especially challenging when you don’t know anyone and can’t speak the language. (Jet lag doesn’t help.) This program’s orientation was extremely helpful in getting all of us acclimated to Thai culture, academic expectations of Khon Kaen university, and most importantly, each of the other twen-ty-four students in the program. Various workshops, activities, and presentations held at the beautiful prepared us for the four months that we will be enjoying together. Group activities (like the Cloth Flip), hiking at Khao Yai National Park, our first four hour Thai lessons, and walk-ing up the steeply sloped steps Ubonrat Temple challenged all of us physically and mentally, which made the group feel more comfortable with each other. Sharing meals together as a group was not just about eating really delicious Thai food, but also about us getting to know one anoth-er on a deeper level. At the resort, Ajaan Dave said “you won’t really know if an ori-entation was successful until the program is over,” but judging by how quickly we’ve all become friends and adjusted to living in Khon Kaen, I’d say it was.

- Emily Blau, American University

The ten ASEAN countries came together and decid-ed that it would be beneficial for their students to take classes on a standardized university schedule. So for the first time all Khon Kaen University students are together at the same time instead of being divided into their individual semesters. This has caused a surge in the number of freshman students- ‘freshies’ as my room-mate calls them- navigating the facilities of the school for the very first time. Overall it appears being a ‘freshy’ at KKU is very similar to being a freshman at any other University. Frosh week is still thing. ‘Freshies’ living on campus have the opportunity to awkwardly meet room-mates, hallmates, and professors while still trying to decide what they want to do with their life. KKU appears special, where at the end of the week students from each of the different clubs dress up in ridiculous outfits- most notably the several dozen students dressed as Bart Simpson-to march in a parade to celebrate school involvement. The Public Health students accidentally road a school shuttle through the parade, so while we were not officially apart of the demonstration we still felt included at the Khon Kaen University. From what I’ve gathered so far as an international student at KKU- be-ing a freshman is almost a universal experience.

Unfinished concrete walls and floors, a makeshift wooden platform to serve as a bed, a lean-to of metal sheets with a bucket of water as a bathroom – this was the first glimpse I had of my homestay. Yet, it was what I had imagined it to be, and it still felt welcoming. Not ten houses down in this communi-ty slum, I went to visit another family. Their house was certainly more devel-oped, but the cooking we learned was still done on the floor and air condition-ing seemed worlds away. As I chopped away at green papaya for somtam salad, I was suddenly greeted by an entirely new high-tech device: a selfie stick. A selfie stick is exactly what it sounds like: a long rod that holds the phone farther out and allows selfies to capture more smiling faces. The household’s meh (mother) had whipped out this fancy piece of equipment and was furiously snapping away pictures of her, two other CIEE students, and myself to immediately post on Face-book. This was not my first experience with Thais’ obses-sion with social media, but it easily stood out as the most surprising. I think it’s safe to assume that most people back home perceive social media as a west-ern-centric trend. People thrive on posts, statuses, and of course “likes” in America. However, upload-

ing photos every week or two is considered sparse here, and posting every other thought on Facebook is expected. The next question after “what is your name” is often, “do you have a Facebook”. Look around and selfies are rampant. It is not something I expected but I appreciate it. In

a unique way it reflects the nature of Thai culture and Thai people. In America posts seem selective, reflecting the stand-offish, hard-to-get nature that is valued there. Thai-

land’s obsession with social media reflects the absence of self-con-sciousness, a literally #noshame attitude, and just an unencumbered aura of excitement to share and be shared with.

Page 4Selfie Nation

- Alexx Lee, Johns Hopkins

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There are a few things a person can come to expect in this world; the sun will rise, the seasons will change and there will be toilet paper in the bathroom. In Thailand toilet paper is more of a loose concept than a concrete promise. In actuality, nothing except for maybe actual concrete is set in Thailand. Thailand is a country that shares, most of the deli-cious food they have to offer is served family style and eaten by hand. And while you share your food with your families and neighbors you may find your-self sharing your meal with some of the native and quite at home wildlife from street dogs to geckos which end up just about everywhere. This food is all for naught if you can’t make it to your destination alive- when crossing the road you will quickly learn the larger, faster vehicle has the right of way and

no problem running over pedestrians. But as far as fast goes cars and motorcycles are all you’ll find moving at pace- things are slow here and work on “Thai time” meaning you may plan to meet at 5:30 but won’t see anyone show up till 6:00. Thailand is relaxed and laid back and while some things are hard to get used to it really shows an easier, low stress way to live.Leave your shoes and your worries at the door, Thailand is amazing.

When you first arrive in Thailand, be prepared to be stared at like you have never been stared at before. In the United States as well as many other coun-tries, stares usually have a negative connotation. However, Thailand is different; Thailand is known as the land of smiles. Look at the faces of the people watching you, and you will immediately notice the warmth in everyone’s expression. Most people are genuinely welcoming and accepting of your decision to travel to their beautiful country. Within my first few minutes on Thailand soil, I was asked if I need-ed help finding a taxi or finding a place to eat. This surprised me because of the glares you sometime receive in the US if you look at or ask a question to someone on the street who you don’t know. When traveling with other American students, Thai people are constantly smiling or waving at us from afar. Never have I been to a country where foreigners are

so appreciated.

During our home stays, the families were more wel-coming and loving than we were expecting. Being in another country with a family you do not know can be scary, but our groups felt more cared for than we could believe. Not only were the families loving and accepting, but the community as a whole was wel-coming and happy to have us. A foreigner randomly coming into your community could be alarming, but it was the opposite in our case. People did not stop asking if we were comfortable or if we wanted more food or drinks. The citizens here truly want you to feel welcomed in every way, even though they show it by forcefully grabbing your camera and taking a picture with you!

Farang Acceptance

- Carly Freeman, Tulane University

A Universal Freshman Experience

- Aaron Hedquist, The George Washington University

Hey, Mai Pen RaiMai Pen Rai, “it means no worries for the rest of your days, it’s our problem free, philosophy, Hakuna Matata,” The Lion King. In other words, it means it is okay, never mind, don’t worry about it, it’s cool, don’t sweat it, you’re welcome, etc. However, I soon learned that it isn’t just a simple “no worries” but a philosophy. A phrase that puts things into perspective and helps you realize that everything happens for a reason. That not everything goes accordingly to plan, but don’t worry because life goes on.

This is among the many traits that I admire about the Thai people. When they cope with their problems and situations, Mai Pen Rai is always accompanied with the sweet smiles that you cannot resist but to smile back. This shows that Thailand lives up to it’s name, “the land of smiles.” I definitely can use these traits to help guide my life and add a touch of sweetness to my personality.

- Bao Nhia Khang, University of Wisconsin-Madison

Safety (and TP) Not Guaranteed

- Aoife Dowd, American University

Student Catherine Darin tests out the selfie stick.

A farang in Isan receives a lot of attention. An un-expected consequence of this attention is its ability to transform the view of self. This phenomenon be-gan with my first experience in a Thai public bath-room. Pulling a roll of toilet paper out of my purse caused Thai spectators to erupt with laughter. In that moment I realized two things about my semes-ter abroad; I was going to be meticulously watched and trivialities of my ways were going to be continu-ally called into question. Initially I viewed this environment to be a nuisance. I did not much like the idea of my actions to be un-der such close scrutiny. However, I soon found it to be liberating. There developed a sort of cross-cul-tural empathy such that I could see the absurdity of farangs from a Thai point of view. I was able to detach from the American framework through which I normally perceive the world. Thus the role of a farang in Isan became one of subversion and introspection.

In the last few months, I’ve spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out what it is that I am actually doing with my life. Ever since I was a child, my future was laid out in a pretty clear path for me. I was to get good grades in elementary, middle, and high school in order for me to attend a prestigious university. Then, I would have to get good grades in university in order for me to get a good job after graduating. However, I slowly began to recognize that it was impossible for me to live comfortably and happily in the long term if I did not find something that I was passionate about. My recent trip with the DG group to Baw Kaew was

the first time in a long time that I was excited to do work. It felt so great to have a group come together so suddenly to do something that could actually help others. It was such a nice change from the typical classroom readings and exam procedures because I could actually see the progress that we were mak-ing. It was so exciting to watch the story evolve and develop on the spot. It was so moving to see the determination of the people in the villages despite their seemingly hopeless situations. This trip really demonstrated what spectacular teamwork looks like and I am truly proud to be a part of this group.

Ad Hoc Trips and Hot Topics Page 6

- Jenny Zhang , University of Pennsylvania

Page 7Farang in Isaan

- Celia Lenarz-Geisen, University of Rochester

Undercover FarangWhen I visited my family’s hometown in South Viet-nam for the first time, they knew. They flocked to my mother and me because they could smell the Amer-ica on our clothes and on our skin. They tried to sell us overpriced lottery tickets and tight jeans and knock-off Michael Kors purses, hoping that despite our tanned skin and dark hair and small-set brown eyes, we would behave accord-ingly to the country that gives hope to so many people around the world.But when I arrived in Khon Kaen, they didn’t know. They glanced over my features and decided I was their own. They fed me food they thought I could

handle, and didn’t for others who obviously looked different. And they didn’t believe me when I told them I was a farang. After all, where are my blond

hair and pale arms? They are disappointed, I can tell. Interact-ing with a farang that really isn’t a farang isn’t very exciting, prob-ably. I even speak nidnoi Thai. Here, I look ordinary. For some who look like me, it can be hard, trying to identify with one identity. But I love it – being able to blend in. As long as I can still bargain for my mango-steen for 25 baht a kilo because they do not know, I am happy being undercover.

Navigating Thai CuisineWhen I told people that I was studying abroad in Thailand the overwhelmingly popular response was, “Oh, wow! I love Thai food!” Although my days revolve around food, I came to the realization that other than the Thai dishes that my father made, my exposure to Thai food was limited. Needless to say, I was stoked to taste test all of the food Thailand had to offer. After 20+ hours of traveling there was only one obstacle blocking the start of my Thai cuisine expe-dition: the language barrier. Thai food includes many ingredients foreign to me, which means that even if I learned the Thai word for them I don’t truly know what it is or how it will taste. In the beginning I let my friends order for me. A few bites in, a kilo of sweat

and a burning mouth of pain later I learned that my tolerance to spicy food was significantly lower than my friends’. I needed to learn to order for myself if I wanted to avoid having traumatic experiences every meal. We learned that “mai sai ped” means, “don’t add anything spicy” in Thai. This simple phrase has let me explore Thai cuisine risk free. The language barrier wasn’t as debilitating as it once seemed. I mastered the art of pointing to dishes I saw around me and then saying “mai sai ped.” I may not know the name of what I’m eating, but I’m not allowing the language barrier to stop me.

- Eve Maxson , Bates College

- Emma Tran, Tulane University

Coming from the Big Apple, I abuse my rights as a pedestrian. I jay-walk all the time, I’m not afraid of crossing the street when it clearly says “DON’T WALK” and I am always positive that if I walk in front of a vehicle, the driver will step on the brake immediately. Being in Thailand for three weeks now, I can’t say the same. I knew it was nothing like NYC because I did not see any sidewalks which led me to conclude that walking was not a thing in this area of the country. The most common type of transportation that I have seen at the university is riding on motorcycles. The craziest thing about it is that I don’t see anyone wearing helmets. Talk about living on the edge right? I see tons of students going at high speeds with their friends sitting behind them. Don’t be surprised to see a child sitting in the front of parents on these motorbikes—something you would never see in the states. The most fright-ening thing for me is how “negotiable” driving is around here. I vividly remember two trucks coming in opposite directions of at least 30mph on a small road and one suddenly decides to pullover. I found it very weird because of how causal and how often incidents like this occurred. If I learned anything about being here so far, it is to always get a ride in the biggest vehicle because they always have the right of way.

Traffic Law(less)

-Kelvin Oppong, Providence College

The Thai people have unquestionably great hospi-tality and kindness. Sweet smiles and laughter fill the streets as I walk to school with you. As I walk by I hear the word “farang,” but what exactly does it mean to be “farang”? In the Thai language, farang means foreigner and the ideal image is perceived as blonde hair, blue eyes, tall, slender, and pale skin. All eyes fixated on you, my friend, as your beauty draws many into the palm of your hands. I see their curiosity towards you. I see the way they adore your physical features. I see the way they yearn to be you. Silently I fall back as I ponder about where I belong.

My features differ from yours, my friend. No eyes fixate on me and I cannot fill their hearts with love. Because I blend in, I am overlooked. All I want is to be seen as who I am, but I am rarely given the chance. My identity is complex and hard to explain. I frequently find myself being labeled as something I am not, but inside I know who I am. With each passing day, I find it harder to ignore the labels that

people give me.

The “farang acceptance” you have received is unlike anything I know, but I want you to under-stand that it’s not the same for everyone. This word “farang” can create uncomfortable spaces for those who do not exactly fit the Thai perception of a foreigner. Friend, what I need is for you to un-derstand. I need you to understand that it is hard being overlooked and labeled differently because I will always have to prove that I am American! Your support, understanding, and empathy will make all the difference in my study abroad experience and I hope that this word “farang” does not separate us, but unite us.

Sincerely,Your Friend, the Masked Farang

-Plia Xiong, University of Wisconsin-Madison and Theresa Chockbengboun, Marlboro College

Note to My Farang Friend

Emma “undercover” among her family.

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With its combination of excitement, adventure, and sense of uniqueness, what’s not to love about nightlife in Thailand? Before arriving in Thailand, one probably has his or her own preconceived notions about Thai nightlife which may include wild and rowdy nights in Bangkok’s “Red Light District” area. But in actuality, when one experiences a night out in Khon Kaen, it is a merely a night of relax-ation, enjoyment, and let’s not forget fun! Before venturing out into streets of Khon Kaen, here are a list of Do’s & Don’ts to assist you in having a suc-cessful night:

Do’s: 1) Enjoy the live band performances! Even though, as a “farang,” you will have no idea what they are singing, the performances are really entertaining and fun to watch! 2) Order a Leo beer or a Mai Thai! The Leo beer is about 90 baht ($3) while the Mai Thai is a bit more expensive at 120 baht ($4). These are my personal favorites, but I promise you, there both great selec-tions! 3) Do mingle with the Thai people! They are ex-

tremely friendly and will be happy to speak with you, but please be assertive if you do not want to give them your personal contact information (i.e. phone number).

Don’ts: 1) Don’t go out to a bar or club on the weekdays. Although “Thirsty Thursdays” may be a thing in the United States, it’s definitely not in Thailand. To get the best experience possible, aim to go out on a Friday or Saturday night. 2) Don’t move the tables and chairs in the bar or nightclub to create a larger dance floor. The staff will smile at you and move the tables and chairs back, but won’t be too happy about you rearranging their furniture. 3) Don’t be afraid to request songs at the DJ Booth! One night, a group of students went out to U bar in the downtown area of Khon Kaen. Before leav-ing the bar, several students requested Beyonce’s “Drunk in Love” (a classic) and the DJ played it! What a great way to end the night!

“One Night in Thailand”: Khon Kaen Nightlife Do’s & Don’ts

The colorful plates crowd the fold out table as we sit down for our first dinner with our host mother. The fragrant tones of her meal are wafting to my nose like a well-orchestrated symphony. “Geem”, eat, she says with a warm smile and I lower to the bam-boo mats. She leaves through the front door before calling over my host brother and sister. A few mo-ments pass as I look from one of my host siblings to the other, having already tired out the few questions I know about their names, ages, and favorite fruits. The aroma of the chili peppers, fresh bean sprouts, and tofu that my host mother has placed in front of me has gotten overwhelming and I work to fight every bone in my Westernized etiquette to begin the meal before she has sat down. At this time, she walks in once more and does not bat an eyelid. In broken Thai all I can think to ask is “geem?” and she throws her hands up in the air that I should go ahead and eat. As I begin to fill my plate, with eager eyes from my host brother and sister an onslaught of questions comes to my mind: Is all this food for me? Have my sibling eating or are we expected to share the meal? Will my host mother eventually sit down with us? Am I expected to eat all of this? Never had dinner customs been such a difficult

dance with so many unknown variables. I began to eat slowly, but after each bite my eyes and stomach grew wider. Once I had finished about half of the food sat in front of me, my host mother spoke the magic words, which caused my host brother and sister to break into their white rice. Upon my completion of the meal, which had felt like a bit of a cultural test of sorts, that I was unsure I had passed, my host mother came to the table with a plethora of pineapple, longang, dragon fruit, and rambutan. As soon as my host mother sat down, the previously quiet meal turned to a conversation filled with gestures rather than words, which carried over for about an hour. Gingerly, she cut the thick, red, spiky skin of rambutan into halves for me and piece-by-piece we would exchange smiles and laughs for our lack of language to exchange. That night, I felt maternal comfort and love shared with me through the exchange of food, warm smiles, and deep laughter. An exchange I learned from my host mother that can cross any language or culture barrier.

Good Food, Warm Smiles, and Deep Laughter

-Sydney Silver, Occidental College

-Shanice Harris, American University

Hospital or Hospitel?: A Field Study in Thai HealthcareI spent a week in the Khon Kaen Ram Hospital after a wound on my leg became infected. So, what is it like to visit a Thai hospi-tal? Once you’ve been ad-mitted, you might say it is like living as royalty: room service meals in bed, com-plimentary wi-fI, English TV channels, a button that summons nurses to assist your every need, sponge baths twice a day, and pajamas all day long. Oh, and not to mention expert medical care from English-speaking doctors and nurses. Obviously a hospital visit is not all roses and sun-shine but there are many comforts that accompany it. The CIEE staff makes sure that you receive care as needed by arranging shuttles to and from the hospital, breaking any language barrier that might exist between you and your doctor, and, most impor-tantly, providing a judg Norment-free environment to

share any health concerns you might have regard-less of circumstance. At the hospital, the doctors

and nurses work hard to manage medical discomforts caused by illness or injury through the provi-sion of medications delivered with kindness and a sense of caring. During my wound cleanings (perhaps the most painful part of my stay in the hospital) my doctor would tell jokes so, as he told me later, the pain would be less. Throughout the day, nurses would come to my room to monitor my vitals and make sure that my medical condition was not chang-

ing drastically. In the end, my only real complaint was boredom, so I would definitely recommend having multiple activities to occupy yourself as best you can, and perhaps prepare to develop a startling addiction to Facebook as it becomes a main source of socialization with the outside world.

-Paul Sullivan, Bowdoin College

At the end of our second week in Thailand, we had already had 30 hours of Thai instruction. Before coming to Thailand in late August, I did not speak a word of Thai. But by our second full day here we had had four hours of Thai instruction. These three weeks were some of the most intensive language in-struction I ever had. Most classes were three to four hours long. Sitting in class we were told to not speak English, write anything down, or ask any questions unless explicitly told we could. We repeated what the “Ajaan” (teacher in Thai) told us and soaked in unprecedented amounts of information. And slowly our base of knowledge grew.Khon Kaen is not considered a touristy city. There-fore it quickly becomes necessary to use most of the Thai we learned in class. From ordering food to going shopping, knowing even the most basic Thai phrases became an invaluable tool in communi-cating our needs and absorbing what was said to us. Despite being so new at Thai and undoubtedly making many mistakes, I am flabbergasted by how patient, encouraging, and supportive the Thai peo-ple I have spoken with are. They nod their head and smile encouragingly, filling in missing words or kindly

correctly a mispronunciation. It has honestly made me more confident and willing to make mistakes in the quest to become conversational in Thai.

Pah-Sa-Thai: Thai Class

-Amelie Dougherty, University of Pennsylvania

Glossary:Farang: Thai word for foreigner,

commonly used when discussing CIEE students; Thai word for Guava.

ASEAN: Union of ten southeast asian coun-tries; functions similary to the European Union.

Baht:Thai currency aproximately 33 USD

Isan: Northeastern region of Thailand, know for its Lao heritage and spicy

food.

In the first week of our program two fellow students prepared to visit two forest communities in order to gather information and write a news article about their forced eviction. After reading about the struggle of the villages, a handful of other students, including myself, decided we wanted to visit the communities too and help out in any way we could. Ajaan Dave quickly or-ganized extra vans, trans-lators, and contacts with NGOs for our impromptu group trip–a testament to the pro-gram’s flexibility and student driv-en approach. We first sat in on a formal meeting with advisors and officials to discuss the general situation, and then traveled to the two villages to carry out exchanges and hear their story in person. The second village had only a handful of days to vacate the area or face arrest by the military; however, with nowhere to relo-cate the situation was hopeless. It was an incredibly moving experience, and I found myself on the verge of tears as I listened to them voice their fears and frustrations. I was struck by the injustice and reality that they had to leave a place they had called home for over 40 years. I took several photos like the one below which depicts a villager full of anguish standing in front of his eviction notice. Afterwards we wrote newsletters, and it was extremely rewarding to know we were helping to make a difference, especially when our article was published in the Isaan Record.

Visitng Mining Communities

-Wilder Nicholson, Bowdoin College

To understand how the political structure of Thai-land operates, one must spend a considerable amount of time rummaging around through Thai-land’s spontaneous and jumbled history. The nine-teen constitutions, nineteen coups and numerous

lèse-majesté sentences may provide some insight into Thailand’s current political landscape, but one may find themself more confused than ever before. With all that said, here is a brief, general overview of present day Thailand. On May 22nd of 2014, General Prayuth Chanocha, the leader of the Royal Thai Armed Forces, launched a coup d’état against the government of Thailand. Governed by the National Council for Peace and Order, Thai people were subject to martial law and strict commands that disallowed political gatherings or protests against the coup. However, these mandates affected mostly Thai citizens in Bang-

kok, and many Thais in rural areas within Thailand were unfazed by this abrupt coup. King Bhumibol Adulyadej, the most respected man in Thailand, appointed General Prayuth to run the country a few days after the coup. Since General Prayuth’s seizure of power, some Thai citizens have outward-ly expressed their disapproval of the coup through demonstrations, symbolic gestures and resilience. Anti-coup protesters get an A+ for creativity, using The Hunger Games’ salute to represent equality, liberty and brotherhood, reading George Orwell’s Nineteen Eighteen-Four and handing out “Sand-wiches for Democracy.” Many of these attempts have been dismissed by the government, which has threatened to detain anyone caught performing these acts of revolt. In the near future, Thailand will face some drastic changes as the King approaches the end of his life and more citizens decide to speak out for justice and equality. Who knows what path Thailand will take in the years to come. It will surely be an excit-ing, and perhaps stressful, time for Thai people and observers around the globe will watch in fasciation as Thailand experiences the next chapter of their eclectic history.

The Political Landscape of Thailand in a Nutshell

- Joshua Kumin, Villanova University

Page 10

Editors: Kate Cowie-Haskell, Sydney Silver Catherine Darin Alexx Lee Aoife Dowd

One of the many villagers being evicted from their home.