Chilli and Garlic Razor Clams with Saffron MayonnaiseServes 4 (as a starter)

12 fresh, live razor clams

200ml virgin olive oil

1 long red chilli, very finely chopped (deseed first if you like, but we don’t)

8 garlic cloves, peeled and very finely sliced

2 good pinches flaked sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

Saffron mayonnaise (optional)

good pinch saffron

2 tsp just-boiled water

1 tsp harissa (we used the Belazu Rose harissa)

100g good quality mayonnaise

Crumbs

50g fresh white rustic bread, such as ciabatta, torn into small pieces

1 tbsp virgin olive oil

small bunch fresh flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped FOOD FACTS

The razor clam is so called due to its extremely sharp shell resembling a cut-throat razor. The clams are a traditional local delicacy in Orkney, where they are commonly known as “spoots”, as they “spoot” water along the exposed stretches of sand at low tide.

Living under the surface in wet sand, “spoots” are not easy to catch. The introduction of dry salt, or better still saline solution, into their burrows will sometimes bring them to the surface so they can be pulled out.

Historical facts provided by Monica Askay, Cook and Food Historian

①To make the mayonnaise (if using), put the saffron threads in a small heatproof bowl and stir in the just-boiled water. Leave to stand for 15 minutes. Put the mayonnaise in a bowl and stir in the harissa, saffron and water until well combined. Cover the surface of the mayonnaise with cling film and leave to stand.

②To make the crumbs, put the bread pieces and oil in a small non-stick frying pan and cook over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until nicely browned and crisp. Set aside and when cool, scatter with parsley and toss lightly together.

③Give the razor clams a good wash and discard any that remain closed when tapped on the edge of the sink or those with cracked or damaged shells. Half fill a large saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Add the clams and cook for just a few seconds until you see the shells open. Do not allow to overcook or they will become rubbery. Tip immediately into a colander in the sink and drain well. Discard any clams that don’t open after cooking.

④Put the oil in a small saucepan and add the garlic, chilli, salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Place over a low heat for 10 minutes, stirring. Do not allow the garlic to colour – and definitely don’t let it get too hot or leave unattended. The idea is to soften the garlic and chilli and infuse the oil. Remove from the heat.

⑤When the clams are cool enough to handle, take one and carefully open. Ease the clam out of its shell and using a small pair of scissors or a sharp knife, working from one end, open the clam to separate the pieces. Cut out the blackly brown sack which runs along the length of each clam and discard. (This may contain sand and be pretty yucky to eat.) Also trim off the dark tipped end and pull away the long feathery gills. Wipe any sandy bits clean with a damp piece of kitchen paper. You should be left with a couple of pieces of white clam meat. Snip diagonally with scissors and return the pieces to one half of the shell. (Cutting them this way will make them easier – and more appetising to eat.)

⑥Place the clam in a large, shallow ovenproof dish, shell side down. Repeat with the rest of the clams. You should end up with a neat dish of clams, meat facing upwards. Preheat the electric grill to its hottest setting and set the shelf around 12cm away from the element. Reheat the flavoured oil but do not allow to bubble. Spoon the garlic and chilli oil all over the clams.

⑦Place the dish under the grill and cook for 2-3 minutes or until the clams are hot. (Don’t allow the clams to overcook or they could become rubbery.) Remove from the grill. Scatter with the parsley crumbs and serve with spoonfuls of saffron mayonnaise.

FOOD FACTS The chilli originated in Mexico and was

brought to Europe in the late 15th century. It was taken to Goa by the Portuguese and became incorporated into Indian cooking.

Saffron, the most expensive spice, originated in Asia Minor. It had both medicinal and culinary uses, and was also used as a dye. Saffron Walden, the town in Essex, takes its name from the spice because it was once cultivated there and has recently been reintroduced.

Historical facts provided by Monica Askay, Cook and Food Historian