Carl F. Bucherer: Collection Book 2015/15

W W W.C A R L- F - B U C HE R E R .C O M

B O U N D T O T R A D I T I O N – D R I V E N B Y I N N O V A T I O N

EN

70.0

7.01

.450

.110

COLLECTION2 0 1 4 / 1 5

CARL

F. B

UCH

ERER

CO

LLEC

TIO

N

2014

/15

1

THE BRAND

THE COLLECTION

20 PATRAVI

PATRAVI ScubaTec 22PATRAVI Calendar 24PATRAVI DayDate 28PATRAVI EvoTec PowerReserve 30PATRAVI EvoTec DayDate 34PATRAVI EvoTec BigDate 36PATRAVI TravelTec 40PATRAVI TravelTec FourX 48PATRAVI ChronoGrade 52PATRAVI ChronoDate Annual 56PATRAVI ChronoDate 58PATRAVI TravelGraph 62 PATRAVI T-Graph 66PATRAVI T-24 70PATRAVI AutoDate and PATRAVI AutoDate TwoTone 74

CONTENTS

82 MANERO MANERO Tourbillon 84MANERO ChronoPerpetual 88 MANERO PowerReserve 90MANERO Perpetual 92MANERO CentralChrono 94 MANERO RetroGrade 96MANERO BigDate Power 100MANERO MoonPhase 102MANERO AutoDate 104

History 2Milestones 6Brand philosophy 9Carl F. Bucherer Technologies 10Movement CFB A1000 14 Quality and longevity 16 Glossary 146

108 ADAMAVI

ADAMAVI 110

118 PATHOS

PATHOS Queen 120PATHOS Princess 122

124 ALACRIA

ALACRIA RoyalRose 126ALACRIA Swan 128ALACRIA Diva 132ALACRIA Queen 138ALACRIA Queen TwoToneALACRIA Princess TwoTone 142ALACRIA Princess 144

2

HISTORYBOUND TO TRADITION & DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

Self-confidence is an essential precondition for becoming established as an entrepreneur. Carl Friedrich Bucherer’s self-confidence was based on his cre-ativity, technical skills, his prudence and his steadfast adherence to his goals.

Since its formation 125 years ago, the company formed by this visionary figure has remained in the sole ownership of the Bucherer family. This continuity means that today Carl F. Bucherer is one of the oldest major Swiss watchmak-ing companies to be held in the ownership of the founder’s family in unbroken succession.

Continuity and independence are thus hallmarks of Carl F. Bucherer, as is the infectious dynamism that has again and again put the brand decisively ahead of its time. Blending tradition and innovation, it combined beautifully crafted filigree jewelry with watch making of the highest standard.

Carl Friedrich and Louise Bucherer established themselves with their watch and jewelry collection in 1888 at the Falkenplatz in Lucerne. Their sons Carl Eduard and Ernst consciously chose to train in two different – but equally important from the point of view of watch production – professions. While Carl Eduard became a goldsmith’s apprentice in London, specializing in cases and beautiful forms, Ernst trained as a watchmaker in St-Imier in western Switzer-land. Both young men had inherited from their father not only a vocation for the profession of watchmaking and a desire to operate independently, but also the urge to be on the move. And so in 1915 Carl Eduard opened his own operation in Berlin at the highly regarded business address “Unter den Linden”. Ernst – also in Berlin – succeeded in being appointed court watchmaker to Kaiser Wilhelm II.

4

1919 2013

In 1919, returning to Lucerne from revolution-torn Germany, the sons encour-aged their father to launch his own ladies’ watch collection in the Art Deco style. The perfect interplay of aesthetic appeal, technical watchmaking skills and outstanding workmanship formed the basis of the creative “mythos” that was to spring from the House of Bucherer. Yet the achievements of the present time are but a call to address new challenges and to seek out ambitious goals. And so Carl Eduard and Ernst Bucherer used this success to continually raise their own standards of watchmaking expertise at the House of Bucherer, and to constantly set new trends through technical developments in the art of watchmaking.

The ladies’ watches and jewelry watches were followed by sporty chrono-graphs. At first these were simple, with three counters for the stopped seconds, minute and hour, but soon they also included a big date, and finally a calendar and also dial apertures for the day and month display under 12 o’clock. Between 1968 and 1976, i.e. during the golden age of mechanical watches before the quartz revolution, the renowned company became established as one of the top three most important producers of chronometers in Switzerland, thanks to the acquisition of workshops specializing in the production of chronometers.

To this day, the philosophy of the founder, Carl Friedrich Bucherer remains. Carl F. Bucherer concentrates on meaningful complications and ingeniously simple operability.

5 Bucherer, Schwanenplatz

6

1930

1948

1971

MILESTONES1888 –2013

1888 Carl Friedrich Bucherer sets up his first specialist shop selling watches and jewelry on Falkenplatz in Lucerne.

1913 The two sons of Carl Friedrich Bucherer, Carl Eduard

and Ernst Bucherer, join their parents’ business.

1919 Carl Friedrich Bucherer launches his first ladies’

watch collection in the Art Deco style. He is one of the first to adopt the watch strap – at that time still a

revolutionary concept.

1930 Launch of an exclusive watch for women set with

170 diamonds on the bezel, among them two brilliant-cut stones that are nearly 6 mm in diameter

each. The case and bracelet are made of platinum.

1939 The Art Deco ladies’ watches from Bucherer, which

are mostly made of platinum and set with diamonds, are now a sought-after rarity.

1948 At an early stage the brand focuses on sporty chronographs and the practical display of the big date, with two discs turning independently of each other showing the current date in generously proportioned apertures on the dial.

1968 By now, around 150’000 high-precision, certified chrono meters have left the workshops, placing the brand among one of the top three most important Swiss producers of chronometers.

1969The company becomes part of a Swiss consortium for the development and production of the first quartz move ment for wristwatches, the Beta 21. However, Bucherer continues to make top quality mechanical timepieces even during the golden age of electronic movements in the mid-1970s, gaining valuable expertise as a result.

1971 The internal rotating ring for diving time in the Archimedes Supercompressor represents a top design achievement for the Bucherer development team. Combined with a world time mechanism, the diver’s watch is still impressive today.

7

20132012

2009

1976 Jörg G. Bucherer – the third generation – takes over

the tradition-rich company.

1994 With the company’s own development of the

Archimedes Perpetual, Carl F. Bucherer continues to concentrate on useful additional functions and

practical benefits. The crown is used to set the full calendar displays.

2001 The Carl F. Bucherer brand is repositioned and the

Patravi Chronograph GMT is launched.

2002 In line with the company tradition: the chronograph

function and the big date run consistently through the collection.

2003 Creation of the Alacria “watch family” –

the feminine expression of time and of the company’s jewelry expertise.

2004 The brand’s first chronograph in tonneau case.

The Patravi T-Graph as a synonym for the functional masculine watch.

2005 One of the patents filed by Carl F. Bucherer:

The monopusher mechanism of the Patravi TravelTec, which is integrated into the case, permits the

parallel display of three time zones.

2007 Carl F. Bucherer Technologies in Ste-Croix – The company’s own workshop for research, development and production of manufacture movements and modules for additional functions.

2008 Carl F. Bucherer presents the CFB A1000 manufacture movement, demonstrating the brand’s innovative strength.

2009 The Patravi EvoTec DayDate is the first product of a concept which is fully developed and unique to the brand.

2011 The first Patravi model, which integrates the functional module CFB A1004: The Patravi Calendar.

2012 Carl F. Bucherer presents the Manero ChronoPerpetual for all lovers of a perpetual calendar with correction- free display of the date, day of the week, month and leap year as well as the moon phase. The functional module has been specially developed by Carl F. Bucherer and also features a chronograph with the flyback function.

2013 Carl F. Bucherer presents the tourbillon for the first time in a timepiece from the Manero range, underlining its skilled craftsmanship at the very highest level.

Launch of the Patravi ScubaTec, a diver’s watch extremely robust and guarantying perfect readability.

With the Pathos, Carl F. Bucherer presents a timepiece that radiates elegance and exclusivity. Which reminds of the Bucherer jewelry heritage.

9

BRAND PHILOSOPHY

Entrepreneurs are people who have an idea and who dare to do something new. They follow their vision and their own path. Carl Friedrich Bucherer expertly blended tradition with innovation by blending the jeweler’s filigree craft with the watch maker’s precision. In 1888, out of his passion for watch-making, he formed his first company in Lucerne, a company which has always been and still is owned entirely by the family. Right up to the present day, the founder’s philosophy has been reflected in the Carl F. Bucherer brand and its timepieces. As the only watch brand to have its origins in Lucerne, Carl F. Bucherer has been able to develop in its own unique way.

TECHNOLOGICAL LEADERSHIPAt Carl F. Bucherer, technically demanding timepieces are developed by a selected team of specialists. The mechanical movements are painstakingly produced and assembled in our own workshops. With the utmost passion and precision, our watchmakers create a micro-mechanical universe of the highest quality out of a multitude of individual components.

THE ART OF THE JEWELERCreating jewelry out of exquisite precious stones is one of the oldest crafts. It therefore goes without saying that the sophisticated jewelrymaking skills of Carl F. Bucherer are a company tradition, one which is pursued with great consistency. Sensitivity, pleasure, brilliance, genuineness and imagination are values that have always been at the center of the art of jewelry as practiced at Carl F. Bucherer.

INDEPENDENCEIn 1919 Carl Friedrich Bucherer, with his first collection of his own watches, established the basis for a brand. A brand which today, as a family-owned watch manufacture, has independence, authenticity and operational freedom as its core values.

CONTINUITYDriven by their passion for the craft of watchmaking and the art of jewelry, the people behind Carl F. Bucherer are constantly striving for perfection, beauty and uncompromising technical standards. Carl F. Bucherer designs and produc-es sophisticated timepieces of strong character and lasting value.

10

CARL F. BUCHERER TECHNOLOGIESWATCHMAKING CREATIVITY

An important chapter in the history of the renowned watch manufacture began in 2007. Since that date, Carl F. Bucherer has been developing and producing mechanical watch movements and functional modules in its own workshops.

Carl F. Bucherer Technologies SA in Ste-Croix, as a competence center for research, development and production, this center is home to extensive know-how, a high level of design creativity, and a modern infrastructure.

All the processes and work stages carried out there are derived from a concept whose basis represents a unique methodology. This methodology includes con centration on a philosophy the foundations of which were established several decades ago: the creation and design of meaningful, useful and attrac-tive mechanisms and additional functions. Part of this approach is for complex challenges such as planned or existing technologies to be reviewed, so that wherever necessary and possible independent solutions can be used to make improvements or reduce complexity, in order to achieve more intelligent and above all, more reliable results.

Thanks to this methodology, Carl F. Bucherer only brings movements and watches to the market that have been subjected to stringent testing, and which will appeal to the wearer by their perfect combination of attractive appearance, traditional craftsmanship, and technological advances.

12

CARL F. BUCHERER TECHNOLOGIESHIGHEST TECHNICAL LEVEL

On 1 July 2007 Bucherer Montres S.A. acquired the manufacture THA (Téch niques Horlogères Appliquées) in Ste-Croix and incorporated it into the company as Carl F. Bucherer Technologies. The foundation stone for the independent Lucerne brand’s long-cherished ambition of producing its own movements was thus laid.

Within a short period the results spoke for themselves: The original seven employees have grown to 40, with watchmakers, engineers, designers, mechanics, supply chain manager, project management and process engineers making up the majority of the staff of Carl F. Bucherer Technologies. The expansion of the production area to 2000 m2 also provides space for much newly acquired machinery, which ensures a vertical integration of seventy percent in the manufacture.

With these technical and human resources, Carl F. Bucherer Technologies is ready for innovation. Soon after taking over the manufacture, Bucherer Montres S.A. presented the CFB A1000, an automatic caliber with peripheral oscillating weight which is used to power the Patravi EvoTec DayDate and which has been patented by Carl F. Bucherer. Since then, several functional modules have appeared. In 2013 Carl F. Bucherer presented the CFB A1011, which is integrated for the first time into the Manero family with the Manero PowerReserve. Projects planned for the future are no less ambitious. At Carl F. Bucherer Technologies, no one doubts that the company’s ambitious aims will become reality.

13

diameter 30 mm, height 4.3 mm,power reserve 55 hours,

frequency 21 600 beats per hour/3Hz,precision adjustment: CDAS,

Swiss lever escapement

Automatic Manufacture Caliber CFB A1000

Functional module CFB A1001

big date, day of the week, hour, minute, small seconds

Patravi EvoTec DayDatePatravi DayDate


power reserve, big date, day of the week, hour, minute, small seconds

Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve


big date, hour, minute, small seconds

Patravi EvoTec BigDatePatravi BigDate


week, big date, day of the week, hour, minute, small seconds

Patravi Calendar


power reserve, big date,day of the week, hour,minute, small seconds

Manero PowerReserve

14

CFB A1000THE MOVEMENT FOR A NEW ERA

After three years of work by the watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer Technologies, the result is a movement of rare perfection. The CFB A1000 caliber is the expression of a philosophy that will characterize a new era in the art of watch-making.

Thanks to the first reliably functioning peripherally mounted and bidirectional winding oscillating weight, which provides an unimpeded view of the carefully decorated microcosm, this movement combines the aesthetic appeal of a hand-wound movement with the convenience of automatic winding. Our rotor is made of tungsten.

The integrated patented dynamic shock absorption system known as “Dynamic Shock Absorption” (DSA) is characterized by a very high level of efficiency and reliability. The walls of the bridge absorb radial displacements of the oscillating weight in the event of violent impact.

With the carefully devised precision adjustment with central control element for the vibrating and escapement system, Carl F. Bucherer has also produced a patented innovation. With the Central Dual Adjusting System (CDAS), the balance wheel only needs one adjustment and its settings remain unchanged thanks to the high positioning, even in the event of violent impact.

The CFB A1000 caliber produced by Carl F. Bucherer is an expression of a new era in the art of watchmaking.

16

QUALITY AND LONGEVITY

Our watches are manufactured with great care, and only precious and resistant ma-terials are used. All components are produced according to Carl F. Bucherer specifications and stringent standards. After the manufac-turing process, every single watch is finally controlled and tested before delivery.

Watch casesIn order to assure 100% corrosion resistance, only stainless steel or precious metals like gold or palladium are used for the watch cases. Metal bracelets are subject to long time endurance tests before going into series production in order to make sure correct functioning after many years of wearing the watch. Each watch with a waterproof rating of 30 m or more is tested at 3 bars or the respective pressure to guarantee water-resistance.

Temperature resistanceWatches with mechanical movements can withstand temperatures in the range of –40°/+80° Celsius; watches with quartz move ments 0/+50° Celsius. Watches with quartz movements are more sensitive to ex-tremely low temperatures because of the battery.

UV resistanceThe watch cases and especially the dials are made of materials which are 100% resistant to UV radiation in order to maintain the beau-ty of its original colors for a long time.

Shock resistanceA representative sample of mechanical move-ments which are utilized in Carl F. Bucherer watches are shock tested up to 5000g accel-eration. This is equivalent to a fall from a height of 1 meter onto a hard wooden floor.

Visual and manual testingEach watch is carefully inspected and tested before it leaves our Manufacture. The move-ment is checked manually for all relevant functions like setting the time, changing the date and other calendar functions, if any, using the chronograph functions and manual winding of the mechanical movement.

The watch itself is carefully visually inspected for:– Cleanliness inside of the dial, the hands,

the sapphire crystal, the movement in case of a transparent case back

– Cleanliness outside of the watch head, the bracelet and the clasp

– Color and general quality of the strap– Proper aligning of the hands– Functionality of the bracelet and clasp

After these inspections, the watch is cleaned again and packed in a protection wrapping in order to avoid any scratches, damage or contamination during transportation and han dling in the stores

18

ADAMAVI“Falling in love”. With its discreet elegance and mechanical reliability, the Adamavi collection from Carl F. Bucherer always represents a timeless, tried and tested classic range.

PATRAVI“I have achieved”. The Patravi stands for the comprehensive watchmaking know-how of Carl F. Bucherer, for technical innovation, attractive and useful additional functions, and striking design characteristics.

ALACRIA“Enthusiasm and zest for life”. With its uniquely contoured and tapered case, the Alacria ladies’ range offers the ideal basis for the creation of prestigious jewelry watches, demonstrating the high level of jewelry skills to be found at Carl F. Bucherer.

TRADITIONCOMPETENCE

THE COLLECTIONINNOVATION

TIMELESSNESSPassionately striving for perfection, intensely expressive aesthetic appeal, innovative technology, traditional watchmaking skills and carefully selected materials are the hallmarks of the collections from Carl F. Bucherer.

19

ADAMAVI“Falling in love”. With its discreet elegance and mechanical reliability, the Adamavi collection from Carl F. Bucherer always represents a timeless, tried and tested classic range.

PATRAVI“I have achieved”. The Patravi stands for the comprehensive watchmaking know-how of Carl F. Bucherer, for technical innovation, attractive and useful additional functions, and striking design characteristics.

MANERO“That which is led by the hand”. With the Manero, Carl F. Bucherer presents a range of modern classics whose beauty and elegance are skillfully combined with mechani-cal precision and practical functionality.

PATHOS“Dedicated to passion”. By combining numerous aspects of the art of watchmaking and the art of jewelry, the Pathos finds its own unique expressive form.

ALACRIA“Enthusiasm and zest for life”. With its uniquely contoured and tapered case, the Alacria ladies’ range offers the ideal basis for the creation of prestigious jewelry watches, demonstrating the high level of jewelry skills to be found at Carl F. Bucherer.

20

PATRAVITECHNICAL EXCELLENCE AND

AESTHETIC APPEAL

Traditional watchmaking artistry, the highest technical and innovative stand-ards, striking design – all combined in one watch, the Patravi from Carl F. Bucherer. The sophisticated and carefully decorated mechanical movements are fitted with useful additional functions such as chronograph, big date and power reserve indication. In most models, a caseback with sapphire crystal provides a clear view of the fascinating microcosm.

The striking and timeless aesthetic appeal of the Patravi adds to the pieces’ attraction. The case is a harmonious whole, yet extraordinarily complex. Its integrated structure permits a special high quality surface finish with a subtle interplay of satinized and polished parts. The dials, produced according to strict quality criteria, are unequalled in terms of their complexity, richness of detail and readability. The interplay with three-dimensionality is unique – the index marks, cut with diamond tools and typical of the Patravi range, are applied by hand, indications like the big date and chronograph totalizators are framed, and a flange surrounds the dial like an arena.

In short: Its craftsmanship, its useful functionality and its striking style make the Patravi the archetypical example of a modern watch.

22

PATRAVI ScubaTecTIME IN DEPTH

Boundless expanses, unfathomable deeps… The oceans of the world have fascinated mankind on every continent from time immemorial. And today, impressive reefs and the colorful world of aquatic plant and animal life entice people into voyages of discovery beneath the surface. The Patravi ScubaTec is a watch made for diving and underwater exploration of every kind. In a sturdy case with blue highlights and sporty functions, the Patravi ScubaTec is the perfect companion in or out of the water. The back of the timepiece is decorated with a relief design of a pair of rays in 3D. The Patravi ScubaTec is imbued with passion for the sea, down to the tiniest detail.

23

MOVEMENT automatic, caliber CFB 1950.1, diameter 26.2 mm, height 4.6 or 4.8 mm, 25 or 26 jewels, power reserve 38 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds, chronometer CASE stainless steel, stainless steel/ceramic bezel, automatic helium valve, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 500 m (50 atm), diameter 44.6 mm, height 13.45 mm

PATRAVI ScubaTec

1

STRAP rubber,

stainless steel diver’s clasp

REF 00.10632.23.33.01

2

BRACELET stainless steel,

stainless steel diver’s clasp

REF 00.10632.23.33.21

24

PATRAVI CalendarFOR EVERY WEEK OF THE YEAR

AND ONE MORE

From a technical point of view, the appeal of the Patravi Calendar lies in the integrated CFB A1000 Manufacture caliber with its peripheral rotor. With this model, Carl F. Bucherer is satisfying the requirements of the many people who prefer a classic round timepiece and for whom functionality is also important. For the CFB A1004 functional module includes alongside the day indication and big date, a practical calendar week display, which even shows the 53rd calendar week. This means that, in the years concerned, it is no longer necessary to turn the calendar week back. A very practical watch, this Patravi Calendar.

25

MOVEMENT automatic, Manufacture caliber CFB A1004, diameter 32 mm, height 6.9 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 55 hours FUNCTIONS week: switching the week from Sunday to Monday; big date, day of the week, hour, minute, small seconds CASE 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coat-ing on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water- resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 42.6 mm, height 12.85 mm

3

STRAP calfskin,

18 K rose gold pin lock folding clasp

REF 00.10629.03.13.01

4

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10629.03.33.01

PATRAVI Calendar

26

MOVEMENT automatic, Manufacture caliber CFB A1004, diameter 32 mm, height 6.9 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 55 hours FUNCTIONS week: switching the week from Sunday to Monday; big date, day of the week, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coat-ing on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water- resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 42.6 mm, height 12.85 mm

5

STRAP calfskin,

stainless steel folding clasp

REF 00.10629.08.33.01

6


stainless steel folding clasp, adjustable

REF 00.10629.08.33.21

PATRAVI Calendar

27

7

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10629.08.63.01

8



REF 00.10629.08.63.21

28

PATRAVI DayDatePERFECTLY ROUNDING OFF EACH DAY

The Patravi DayDate stands for what its name promises, showing not only the big date in the upper left quadrant of the dial and the small seconds at 6 o’clock, but also the current day of the week at 9 o’clock. A trademark function that forms a meaningful addition to the essential information provided at first glance.

The focus of the Patravi DayDate is on exciting mechanical complications and visual understatement. This restrained visual appearance makes the watch a stylish companion for every occasion – whatever the day of the week.

29

PATRAVI DayDate

MOVEMENT automatic, Manufacture caliber CFB A1001, diameter 32 mm, height 6.9 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 55 hours FUNCTIONS big date, day of the week, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 42.6 mm, height 12.85 mm

9

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10631.08.33.01

10



REF 00.10631.08.33.21

30

PATRAVI EvoTecMECHANICAL MASTERPIECE IN A

STRIKING CURVED CASE

The Patravi EvoTec offers the perfect framework for the CFB A1000 Manufac-ture caliber. The caliber has been fitted with specially developed functional modules, providing the small seconds at 6 o’clock and the impressive big date, the dimensions of which are eye-catching even for this form of date presenta-tion. It is also unusually positioned in the upper left dial quadrant.

31

11

CASE rubber bezel,

rubber screw-down crown

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10627.13.33.01

12

CASE rubber bezel,


STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10627.15.93.01

13

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10627.08.63.01

PATRAVI EvoTec PowerReserve

MOVEMENT automatic, Manufacture caliber CFB A1002, diameter 32 mm, height 6.3 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 55 hours FUNCTIONS power reserve, big date, day of the week, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), dimensions 43.75 × 44.5 mm, height 13.95 mm

32

14

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10627.08.33.01

15



REF 00.10627.08.33.21

16

BRACELET

stainless steel, stainless steel folding clasp,

adjustable

REF 00.10627.08.63.21

PATRAVI EvoTec PowerReserve

MOVEMENT automatic, Manufacture caliber CFB A1002, diameter 32 mm, height 6.3 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 55 hours FUNCTIONS power reserve, big date, day of the week, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel, screw-down crown, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), dimensions 43.75 × 44.5 mm, height 13.95 mm

34

PATRAVI EvoTec DayDate

MOVEMENT automatic, Manufacture caliber CFB A1001, diameter 32 mm, height 6.3 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 55 hours FUNCTIONS day of the week, big date, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), dimensions 43.75 × 44.5 mm, height 13.95 mm

19

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10625.08.33.01

17

CASE rubber bezel,


STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10625.13.33.01

18

CASE rubber bezel,


STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10625.15.93.01

35

22



REF 00.10625.08.63.21

20



REF 00.10625.08.33.21

21

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10625.08.63.01

36

PATRAVI EvoTec BigDate

MOVEMENT automatic, Manufacture caliber CFB A1003, diameter 32 mm, height 6.3 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 55 hours FUNCTIONS big date, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel, screw-down crown, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water- resistant to 50 m (5 atm), dimensions 38.54 × 39.25 mm, height 12.9 mm BRACELET stainless steel, stainless steel folding clasp, adjustable

23

REF 00.10628.08.23.21

24

CASE 56 diamonds FC TW vvs, 1.1 ct

REF 00.10628.08.23.31

38

PATRAVI EvoTec BigDate

MOVEMENT automatic, Manufacture caliber CFB A1003, diameter 32 mm, height 6.3 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 55 hours FUNCTIONS big date, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), dimensions 38.54 × 39.25 mm, height 12.9 mm

25

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10628.08.33.01

26

CASE 56 diamonds FC TW vvs 1.1 ct

STRAP water snake skin,


REF 00.10628.08.23.11

39

27

DIAL mother-of-pearl,

5 diamonds FC TW vvs

STRAP Louisiana alligator leather,


REF 00.10628.03.77.01

28




STRAP water snake skin,


REF 00.10628.03.77.11

40

PATRAVI TravelTecFOR FREQUENT FLIERS AND

WORLD TRAVELERS

It is a time machine. Developed with all the passion of the watchmaker’s art: strong character, imposing, yet harmonious.

Powered by the specially developed CFB 1901.1 caliber. A chronograph that not only satisfies the highest requirements in terms of precision, thanks to its chronometer certification, but which also displays three different time zones simultaneously.

This necessitated a hitherto unknown integration of movement and case. Part of the switch mechanism for the time zone selection is integrated into the case, which makes this one of the most complex mechanical watches in the world. The innovative monopusher at 10 o’clock that controls this mechanism has been patented by Carl F. Bucherer.

The Patravi TravelTec is the perfect watch for frequent fliers and people who need to communicate all over the world.

42

CASEThe solid case is one of the most complex in the world of watches. Together with the switch mechanism, it is made up of more than 70 components.

43

SINGLE PUSH BUTTON MECHANISMWith the push of a button the bezel can be turned forward or back-ward (east or west) in one hour steps, depending on the position of the sophisticated switch mechanism. A third, neutral position prevents the display unintentionally being set to the wrong position. This construction results in fast and precise wheel movement as well as great ease of use. This push button mechanism is visible through an aperture in the side of the watchcase.

44

30

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10620.03.93.01

MOVEMENT automatic, caliber CFB 1901.1, chronometer, diameter 28.6 mm, height 7.3 mm, 39 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: hour, minute and seconds counters; three time zones, date, hour, minute, seconds CASE 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 46.6 mm, height 15.5 mm

PATRAVI TravelTec

29

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10620.03.33.01

45

31

BRACELET 18 K rose gold,

18 K rose gold folding clasp

REF 00.10620.03.33.21

32


STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10620.03.33.12

46

MOVEMENT automatic, caliber CFB 1901.1, chronometer, diameter 28.6 mm, height 7.3 mm, 39 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: hour, minute and seconds counters; three time zones, date, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 46.6 mm, height 15.5 mm

PATRAVI TravelTec

34



REF 00.10620.08.33.21

35

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10620.08.63.01

33

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10620.08.33.01

47

37

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10620.08.53.01

38



REF 00.10620.08.53.21

36



REF 00.10620.08.63.21

48

PATRAVI TravelTec FourXTIME AND MATTER

Titanium, ceramic and rubber transform time into reality in a new way. With its case made of 18 karat rose gold, the Patravi TravelTec FourX Limited Edition hovers between the terrestrial and the cosmic levels.

Jet black extra-hard high-tech ceramic turns the bezel into a striking statement.

The monopusher is made of titanium; the crown, the chronograph push-pieces and the strap are made of hard-wearing rubber. The painstakingly skeleton dial with its sophisticated date indication under an effective magnifier completes the technical look of this extraordinary overall concept. The figures are milled out of the date room and remain invisible until they appear in the date window with the red background.

The new model Patravi TravelTec FourX, in a Limited Edition of 125, once again does honor to Carl F. Bucherer. This timepiece is designed as a tribute to the great visionary, the depth of his character and the creativity of his company.

Your journey through time can begin.

50

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1901.1 caliber, chronometer, diameter 28.6 mm, height 7.3 mm, 39 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph, three time zones, date, hours, minutes, small seconds CASE ceramic bezel, skeletonized dial, screw-down crown and chronograph push-pieces in 18 K gold and rubber, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 46.6 mm, height 15.5 mm

PATRAVI TravelTec FourX

39

CASE 18 K rose gold,

blackened titanium monopusher, 18 K rose gold and rubber screw-down crown

and push-pieces

STRAP rubber,

18 K rose gold pin buckle

LIMITED EDITION 125 pieces

REF 00.10620.22.93.01

40

CASE 950 palladium,

titanium monopusher, rubber screw-down crown and push-pieces

STRAP rubber,

titanium pin buckle

REF 00.10620.21.93.01

52

PATRAVI ChronoGradeTIME UNDER TOTAL CONTROL

To call this a mere chronograph would be a huge understatement. The Patravi ChronoGrade combines six functions that have never before been brought together in this way in a mechanical watch.

Firstly, with the power reserve indication the chronograph provides a check on its own power supply from the barrel. With its big date in the double window and the monthly calendar which allows for different month lengths, it reliably guarantees synchronization of the days. With the retrograde hour counter, long periods of time within a six-hour cycle can be measured. For shorter intervals, on the other hand, there is the flyback function. The pusher only needs to be pressed once for the hand to jump back to zero and automatically restart.

Thanks to the Patravi ChronoGrade, time becomes a fascinating event.

53

42

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10623.08.63.01

41

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10623.08.33.01

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1902 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 51 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: retrograde hours counter, minute and seconds counters, flyback; big date, annual calendar, bidirectional power reserve, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 44.6 mm, height 14.1 mm

PATRAVI ChronoGrade

54

43



REF 00.10623.08.33.21

44

MOVEMENT CFB 1902.1 caliber,

chronometer



REF 00.10623.03.33.21

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1902 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 51 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: retrograde hours counter, minute and seconds counters, flyback; big date, annual calendar, bidirectional power reserve, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 44.6 mm, height 14.1 mm

PATRAVI ChronoGrade

55

45


chronometer

STRAP Louisiana alligator leather, hand-stitched,


REF 00.10623.03.93.01

46


chronometer

STRAP Louisiana alligator leather, hand-stitched,


REF 00.10623.03.13.01

56

PATRAVI ChronoDate AnnualONE DAY, ONE MONTH,

ONE YEAR, ONE CALENDAR

An exclusive chronometer caliber with essential stop function, annual calendar and big date in the double window makes the Patravi ChronoDate Annual the perfect timepiece for all months of the year. The fact that its calendar will need a little assistance at the end of February has been deliberately taken into account by Carl F. Bucherer.

With all other months, thanks to a complex mechanism involving numerous wheels, levers and rockers, the timepiece switches precisely to the 1st of the month, irrespective of whether the previous month has 30 or 31 days.

A remarkably elegant satinized case made of high quality rose gold protects the mechanical jewel.

57

48


hand-stitched, 18 K rose gold pin lock folding clasp

REF 00.10619.03.93.01

49



REF 00.10619.03.13.21

47



REF 00.10619.03.33.01

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1957.1 caliber, chronometer, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 49 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: hour, minute and seconds counters; annual calendar, big date, hour, minute, small seconds CASE 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 42 mm, height 14.1 mm

PATRAVI ChronoDate Annual

58

PATRAVI ChronoDateAESTHETIC FUNCTIONALITY

The Patravi ChronoDate proves that practical values certainly can be aesthet-ically pleasing.

With the framed big date in the double window below 12 o’clock, the date – an everyday necessity – can be read even more quickly and easily.

Carl F. Bucherer is making a reference here to a form of date indication that has been used for decades by the company. Together with the lighter colored chrono graph functions at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, the functions are arranged with a pleasing symmetry and contribute to the perfect legibility of the dial.

59

PATRAVI ChronoDate

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1956 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 49 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: hour, minute and seconds counters; big date, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 44.6 mm, height 14.1 mm

51



REF 00.10624.08.33.21

50

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10624.08.33.01

60

PATRAVI ChronoDate

52



REF 00.10624.08.13.21

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1956 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 49 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: hour, minute and seconds counters; big date, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 44.6 mm, height 14.1 mm

53

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10624.08.13.01

61

55



REF 00.10624.08.53.21

54

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10624.08.53.01

62

PATRAVI TravelGraphTWO WORLDS ON ONE LEVEL

The watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer have specially developed the CFB 1901 caliber for frequent travelers. In the Patravi TravelGraph, this caliber combines the chronograph functions of a stopwatch with the additional display for a second time zone.

The eye-catching feature of the Patravi TravelGraph is the rotatable bezel made of durable rubber and stainless steel with 24-hour markings. The second time zone can be adjusted directly via the crown. Turning beyond the time zone limit automatically also switches the date.

These special technical features make the Patravi TravelGraph the ideal travel-ing watch.

64

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1901 caliber, diameter 28.6 mm, height 7.3 mm, 39 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: hour, minute and seconds counters; second time zone, date, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel, rubber/stainless steel bezel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water- resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 42 mm, height 14.1 mm

PATRAVI TravelGraph

57



REF 00.10618.13.33.21

58

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10618.13.23.01

56

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10618.13.33.01

65

60

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10618.13.53.01

61



REF 00.10618.13.53.21

59



REF 00.10618.13.23.21

66

PATRAVI T-GraphTHE HIGHEST STANDARDS OF TIME MEASUREMENT

IN A TRADITIONAL FORM

The tonneau-shaped form of the Patravi T-Graph, borrowed from the tradition-al art of watchmaking, consciously creates an idiosyncratic counterpoint.

Yet its unusual bidirectional power reserve indication also makes it an aesthet-ically pleasing alternative for connoisseurs of the best in time measurement.

A disk with high/low indication, which rotates in a clockwise direction when the watch is wound up, is arranged at 6 o’clock. The dual hand sitting on the disk does not behave in the usual retrograde fashion, but also moves in a clock-wise direction as the watch winds down. A technical refinement that is used for the first time in the Patravi T-Graph.

68

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1960 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.3 mm, 47 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: hour and minute counters; bidirectional power reserve, big date, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti- reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), dimensions 39 × 42 mm, height 13.8 mm

PATRAVI T-Graph

63

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1960.1 caliber,

chronometer



REF 00.10615.03.93.01

62

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1960.1 caliber,

chronometer



REF 00.10615.03.33.01

69

66



REF 00.10615.08.13.21

65

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10615.08.13.01

64

STRAP calfskin,


REF 00.10615.08.33.01

70

PATRAVI T-2424 PERFECTLY FORMED HOURS

Proof that striking elegance and perfect ergonomics do not have to be mutually exclusive is exhibited in the Patravi T-24. Its tonneau shaped case is perfectly formed. As an optional highlight, twelve points on the bezel hold a total of 48 diamonds in compact groups of four. The practical benefit is that these points and the diamonds mark the hours and minutes.

The finely decorated 24 hour indication at 12 o’clock, which can be set inde-pendently of the hours and minutes hands, is used to indicate a second time zone.

An optical counterpart to this is provided by the dynamically curved power reserve indication at 6 o’clock.

72

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1953 caliber, diameter 26.2 mm, height 5.1 mm, 28 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS second time zone, date, power reserve, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), dimensions 36 × 39 mm, height 11.1 mm

PATRAVI T-24

68



REF 00.10612.08.23.01

69






REF 00.10612.03.74.11

67




REF 00.10612.08.23.11

73

70



REF 00.10612.08.33.21

71



REF 00.10612.03.93.01

72



REF 00.10612.03.13.01

74

PATRAVI AutoDate PATRAVI AutoDate TwoTone

THE AESTHETIC COMPONENT OF TIME

Uncluttered, clear and classic in its design, pared down to the essentials in its functionality. This is mechanical refinement at its fascinating best.

Both the Patravi AutoDate and the Patravi AutoDate TwoTone convey the time and date with unmistakable features; in an elegantly simple form or with dia-monds of the highest purity, in the pure stainless steel case variant or in the two tone variant with stainless steel and 18 K rose gold. These stylish timepieces are available in different realizations and three dimensions for each variant.

So that each individual wish can be fulfilled.

75

73



REF 00.10617.07.77.21

74




REF 00.10617.07.77.31

75


REF 00.10617.07.23.31

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1950 caliber, diameter 26.2 mm, height 4.8 mm, 26 jewels, power reserve 38 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel and 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti- reflective coating on one side, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 38 mm, height 10.85 mm BRACELET stainless steel and 18 K rose gold, stainless steel folding clasp

PATRAVI AutoDate TwoTone

76

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1963 caliber, diameter 20 mm, height 4.8 mm, 25 jewels, power reserve 38 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel and 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti- reflective coating on one side, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm), diameter 27 mm, height 9.05 mm BRACELET stainless steel and 18 K rose gold, stainless steel folding clasp


76



REF 00.10621.07.77.21

77



CASE 48 diamonds FC TW vvs, 0.45 ct

REF 00.10621.07.77.31

77

MOVEMENT automatic, height 4.8 mm, power reserve 38 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel and 18 K rose gold, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm) BRACELET stainless steel and 18 K rose gold, stainless steel folding clasp


78

MOVEMENT CFB 1950 caliber,

diameter 26.2 mm, height 4.8 mm, 26 jewels

CASE diameter 38 mm, height 10.85 mm

REF 00.10617.07.23.21

80


diameter 20 mm, height 4.8 mm, 25 jewels


REF 00.10621.07.23.21

79



CASE 48 diamonds FC TW vvs 0.45 ct, diameter 27 mm, height 9.05 mm

REF 00.10621.07.23.31

78

MOVEMENT automatic, power reserve 38 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti- reflective coating on one side, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm) STRAP Louisiana alligator leather, stainless steel folding clasp

PATRAVI AutoDate

81




REF 00.10617.08.23.01

83

MOVEMENT CFB 1963 caliber, diameter 20 mm,

height 4.8 mm, 25 jewels


REF 00.10621.08.23.01

82




REF 00.10622.08.23.01

79

85




REF 00.10622.08.23.11

86






REF 00.10621.08.77.01

84






REF 00.10617.08.77.01

80

MOVEMENT automatic, power reserve 38 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal with anti- reflective coating on one side, water-resistant to 50 m (5 atm) BRACELET stainless steel, stainless steel folding clasp

PATRAVI AutoDate

88




DIAL mother-of-pearl, 9 diamonds FC TW vvs

REF 00.10622.08.77.21

89




REF 00.10621.08.23.31

87



CASE 48 diamonds FC TW vvs 0.75 ct,

diameter 38 mm, height 10.85 mm

DIAL mother-of-pearl, 9 diamonds FC TW vvs

REF 00.10617.08.77.31

82

MANEROTHE ART OF WATCHMAKING

IN ITS MOST AUTHENTIC FORM

The Manero is virtuoso watchmaking craftsmanship in its most authentic form, a timeless classic of discreet yet powerful elegance. Its entire essence is contained in its name, which is derived from the Latin “manuaria”, meaning “that which is led by the hand”.

The name Manero points to the precisely adjusted internal life of the watch with its mechanical refinement, the complexity of which is clearly conveyed by the elaborate three-dimensional dials. The Manero is conceived for people who appreciate the hidden values of the mechanical movement as much as the straight-lined beauty of this timepiece.

84

MANERO Tourbillon A MASTERPIECE OF THE WATCHMAKER’S ART

It is revered as the highest achievement in watchmaking: the tourbillon. Only a few masters of the craft can lay claim to the delicacy and absolute accuracy that must come into play to build a tourbillon. In this extremely refined compli-cation, the balance mechanism is housed in a carriage that rotates about its own axis once every minute and compensates for any inaccuracies of rate caused by the Earth’s gravity.

A particularly striking feature of the Manero Tourbillon is the view through the tourbillon, which reveals the complex mechanism in all its splendor. This magni ficent timepiece is completed with a harmoniously styled dial in keeping with the strong personality and elegance of the Manero Tourbillon.

The Manero Tourbillon – a true masterpiece.

86

MOVEMENT hand wound, CFB T1001, diameter 33 mm, height 6.2 mm, 35 jewels, power reserve 70 hours FUNCTIONS tourbillon, power reserve, 24 hours indication, date, hour, minute CASE 18 K rose gold, domed sapphire crystal with anti- reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 41.80 mm, height 12.58 mm

MANERO Tourbillon

90


hand-stitched, 18 K rose gold folding clasp


REF 00.10918.03.13.01

MOVEMENT hand wound, CFB T1001,

diameter 33 mm, height 6.2 mm, 35 jewels,

power reserve 70 hours

88

MANERO ChronoPerpetual PEAK TECHNICAL PERFORMANCE

This is a complicated – as the term is understood in watchmaking timepiece. The perpetual calendar, with the correction-free indication of date, day, month and moon phase, has always been and remains a technical challenge that only a handful of watchmakers are able to meet, because of its complexity and mechanical refinement. The mechanism recognizes the different month lengths and knows when the next leap year will start. It can therefore cope with the vagaries of our calendar, which goes back to Pope Gregory (1532–1585).

A manual correction will not be necessary until 2100, when the leap year is omitted, as in all years that are divisible by 100 but not 400.

89

92


REF 00.10906.03.33.01

91


REF 00.10906.03.13.01

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1904 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.6 mm, 49 jewels, power reserve 50 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: hour, minute and seconds counters, flyback; perpetual calendar: month, date, day of the week; leap year, moon phase, tachymeter, hour, minute, small seconds CASE 18 K rose gold, double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 42.5 mm, height 14.3 mm STRAP Louisiana alligator leather, hand-stitched, 18 K rose gold pin buckle

MANERO ChronoPerpetual

90

MANERO PowerReserve THE PASSAGE OF TIME REVEALED

Elegant perfection of form embraces sophisticated mechanics. The Manero PowerReserve makes a statement on time and its course: a glance at its dial reveals how much power it still has in store. To do this, a special module made in-house is incorporated into the movement to display the power reserve. Thus the caliber CFB A1011 takes its place for the first time in the Manero line, combining external design of traditional inspiration with the most innovative technology within.

91

93


stainless steel pin lock folding clasp

REF 00.10912.08.13.01

94

BRACELET stainless steel bracelet and folding clasp

REF 00.10912.08.13.21

MOVEMENT automatic, Manufacture caliber CFB A1011, diameter 32 mm, height 6,3 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 55 hours FUNCTIONS power reserve, big date, day of the week, date, hours, minutes, small seconds CASE stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 42,5 mm, height 12.54 mm

MANERO PowerReserve

92

MANERO Perpetual FOREVER AND FOR ETERNITY

The art of dealing with the vagaries of the Gregorian calendar, with its short February and its leap years, by means of a correction-free mechanism, as well as reflecting the current phase of the moon, is an art that has been mastered by the specialists at Carl F. Bucherer.

Not until two generations’ time will it be necessary to have a correction made by the watchmakers at Carl F. Bucherer. There will be no leap year in 2100. But fortunately we have a good few years in hand.

And in any case the Manero Perpetual will last for many generations more.

93

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1955.1 caliber, chronometer, diameter 26.2 mm, height 5.2 mm, 21 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS perpetual calendar: leap year, month, date, day of the week; moon phase, hour, minute, seconds CASE 18 K rose gold, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 40 mm, height 11.5 mm

MANERO Perpetual

95



REF 00.10902.03.16.21

96


STRAP Louisiana alligator leather, 18 K rose gold pin buckle

REF 00.10902.03.16.11

97




REF 00.10902.03.16.31

94

MANERO CentralChrono CENTRAL THINKING

The name is the program. The appeal of the Manero CentralChrono lies in its chronograph indication, used for the first time in this way at Carl F. Bucherer: The minute indication, controlled by hands from the center, cleverly sets the Manero CentralChrono apart from other chronographs and provides the wearer with a rapid overview of this complication.

Persuasive functionality, perfect readability, complemented by classic el-egance. If only life were always so accommodating.

95

99



REF 00.10910.08.33.01

98



REF 00.10910.08.13.01

100



REF 00.10910.08.33.21

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1967 caliber, diameter 30 mm, height 7.4 mm, 47 jewels, power reserve 40–44 hours FUNCTIONS chronograph: central minute counter, seconds counter; date, 24-hour, hour, minute, small seconds CASE stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 42.50 mm, height 14.24 mm

MANERO CentralChrono

96

MANERO RetroGrade THE GREATEST SELECTION IN THE SMALLEST SPACE

First class designers are indispensable in watchmaking. This is made abun-dantly clear by the Manero RetroGrade.

No fewer than seven hands and four additional indications are arranged with the greatest possible clarity on its elegant dial.

The 24 hour display for a second time zone is presented in circular form at 12 o’clock, with the indication of the day at 9 o’clock. As the month goes by, the filigree hand of the retrograde date indication moves on a semicircular scale from top to bottom, immediately jumping back to its starting point on the last day. The dynamic of the sectoral indication of the power reserve shows the energy stored in the barrel of the automatic movement.

The Manero RetroGrade – simple refinement.

97

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1930.1 caliber, chronometer, diameter 26.2 mm, height 5.1 mm, 34 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS retrograde calendar: date, day of the week; 24-hour, power reserve, hour, minute, seconds CASE anti- reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 40 mm, height 11.5 mm

MANERO RetroGrade

102



REF 00.10901.03.16.21

103



REF 00.10901.03.16.11

101


REF 00.10901.03.16.01

98

105



REF 00.10901.08.26.21

106




REF 00.10901.08.36.31

104

STRAP Louisiana alligator leather, stainless steel pin buckle

REF 00.10901.08.36.01

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1903 caliber, diameter 26.2 mm, height 5.1 mm, 34 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS retrograde calendar: date, day of the week; 24-hour, power reserve, hour, minute, seconds CASE anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 40 mm, height 11.5 mm

MANERO RetroGrade

100

MANERO BigDate Power FOR EVERY OCCASION

A timepiece that cleverly combines elegant simplicity and practical functional-ity: in addition to its classic design, the Manero BigDate Power’s striking features are its big date and an integrated power reserve indication.

So that time never stands still.

101

108


REF 00.10905.03.13.01

109


REF 00.10905.08.13.01

107




REF 00.10905.03.13.31

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1964 caliber, diameter 26.2 mm, height 5.1 mm, 28 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS big date, power reserve, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, domed sapphire crystal with anti- reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water- resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 40 mm, height 11.45 mm

MANERO BigDate Power

102

MANERO MoonPhase CLASSIC COMPLEXITY

Its detailed calendar function is fascinating. With a single glance at his wrist, the wearer has a rapid overview of the current date, which is shown by means of hands radiating from the center. While the indication of the day has been positioned at 10 o’clock, the current month can be seen in the right half at 2 o’clock.

This special calendar is completed by the moon phase indication, which appears in the center at 6 o’clock, appearing as a gold-colored moon disk in front of a blue background.

An eye-catching timepiece that incorporates a high level of technical refine-ment with its inner workings.

103

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1966 caliber, diameter 26.2 mm, height 5.2 mm, 21 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS moon phase, month, date, day of the week, hour, minute, seconds CASE 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal with anti- reflective coating on one side, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 38 mm, height 10.85 mm

MANERO MoonPhase

111


REF 00.10909.03.13.01

110


REF 00.10909.03.33.01

112



REF 00.10909.03.13.21

104

MANERO AutoDateHOMAGE TO THE 60s

1960s design succeeded in establishing influential trends in the world of fashion, creating forms that will last forever. Simple and classically appealing three-hand watches with dials reduced to the essentials set new standards during this period, which have continued to be of major importance in the design of timepieces right up to the present day.

A striking example of the design features originating from this period can be found in the Manero AutoDate. The classic, understated design emphasizes the functionality of this vintage style timepiece, which presents the essentials at a glance: the current time and the date at 3 o’clock.

Elegant simplicity, mechanical sophistication.

105

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1950 caliber, diameter 26.2 mm, height 4.6 or 4.8 mm, 26 or 25 jewels, power reserve 38 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE 18 K rose gold or stainless steel, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 42 mm, height 11.98 mm

MANERO AutoDate

114

STRAP alligator leather,


REF 00.10915.08.13.01

113



REF 00.10915.03.13.01

115



REF 00.10915.08.33.21

106

MANERO AutoDate

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1963 caliber, diameter 20 mm, height 4.8 mm, 25 jewels, power reserve 38 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 30 mm, height 9.54 mm

116

STRAP crocodile leather,


REF 00.10911.08.23.01

117



REF 00.10911.08.23.21

118



REF 00.10911.08.53.21

107

120


REF 00.10908.03.13.01

121



REF 00.10908.03.33.21

119


REF 00.10908.08.13.01

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1965 caliber, diameter 26.2 mm, height 3.6 mm, 21 or 25 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel or 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 38 mm, height 8.75 mm

MANERO AutoDate

108

ADAMAVIFALLING IN LOVE

Carl F. Bucherer benefits from being an independent watch brand. Providing continuity to the high quality brand, the success of which is based on a valuable store of experience in the field of mechanical watchmaking and the art of jewelry. Although Carl F. Bucherer stands for dynamic innovative strength and mechanical innovation, it is nevertheless extremely important to the brand that tried and tested technologies and design elements should be carried through into the future.

The concept of keeping alive the tried and tested values of the past is expressed in the Adamavi watch family. Translated from the Latin, Adamavi means “to fall in love with something” or “to take pleasure in something”.

All models in this range are characterized by pure timeless elegance and mechanical reliability, making them more than just timepieces. As true com-panions whose appearance will outlast the short-lived trends of the present time, they provide the wearer with reliability and continuity.

Values that are predestined please.

110

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1965, diameter 26.2 mm, height 3.6 mm, 21 or 25 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 39 mm, height 7.55 mm

124

CASE 52 diamonds FC W p1 0.60 ct



REF 00.10311.03.15.11

123



REF 00.10311.03.15.01

122



REF 00.10311.03.15.21

ADAMAVI

111

125



REF 00.10312.03.15.01

126



REF 00.10312.03.15.21

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1853 FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 28 mm, height 5.70 mm

ADAMAVI

112

128

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1850

FUNCTIONS hour, minute


REF 00.10308.03.16.01

127

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1965

diameter 26.2 mm, height 3.6 mm, 21 or 25 jewels, power reserve 42 hours

FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute

CASE diameter 36 mm, height 7.2 mm, caseback with sapphire crystal

REF 00.10307.03.16.01

CASE 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm) STRAP alligator leather, 18 K rose gold pin buckle

ADAMAVI

113

131

CASE 44 diamonds FC W p1 0.35 ct,

height 5.75 mm

DIAL 231 diamonds FC TW vvs



REF 00.10310.03.93.11

129



REF 00.10308.03.16.21

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1850 FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 26 mm, height 4.75 mm

ADAMAVI

130




REF 00.10308.03.16.31

114

ADAMAVI

133


REF 00.10307.03.16.31

132

REF 00.10307.03.16.21

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1965, diameter 26.2 mm, height 3.6 mm, 21 or 25 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute CASE 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 36 mm, height 7.2 mm BRACELET 18 K rose gold, 18 K rose gold folding clasp

115

CASE 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm) BRACELET 18 K rose gold, 18 K rose gold folding clasp

ADAMAVI

134

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1850

FUNCTIONS hour, minute

CASE 44 diamonds FC W p1 0.35 ct,

diameter 26 mm, height 5.75 mm


REF 00.10310.03.93.31

135

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1965,

diameter 26.2 mm, height 3.6 mm, 21 or 25 jewels, power reserve 42 hours

FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute

CASE 46 diamonds FC W p1 0.52 ct, diameter 36 mm, height 8 mm


REF 00.10309.03.93.31

116

ADAMAVI

137


REF 00.10305.02.26.01

136

CASE diameter 27 mm, height 6 mm

REF 00.10306.02.26.01

MOVEMENT hand-wound, CFB 1968, diameter 23.7 mm, height 2.5 mm, 17 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS hour, minute, small seconds CASE 18 K white gold, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm) STRAP alligator leather, 18 K white gold pin buckle

117

138

CASE diameter 27 mm, height 6 mm

REF 00.10306.03.26.01

139


REF 00.10305.03.26.01

MOVEMENT hand-wound, CFB 1968, diameter 23.7 mm, height 2.5 mm, 17 jewels, power reserve 42 hours FUNCTIONS hour, minute, small seconds CASE 18 K rose gold, sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm) STRAP alligator leather, 18 K rose gold pin buckle

ADAMAVI

118

The Pathos is radiant in a garland of faceted steel that reflects the light in atmospheric glints and gleams. This exceptional timepiece, a masterly blend of the watchmaker’s craft and the jeweler’s art, exudes sublime passion.

Streamlined motifs ornamenting the dial and the case, worked in loving detail, create its flamboyant splendor. With its unique design, a Pathos on the wrist impresses by its dignified elegance and individuality. And makes every woman shine.

PATHOSMAJESTIC ELEGANCE

120

140

CASE stainless steel and 18 K rose gold,

height 9.08 mm

BRACELET stainless steel and 18 K rose gold

REF 00.10550.07.25.21

PATHOS QueenGLEAMING EXTRAVAGANCE

The heart of the Pathos Queen is a mechanical movement, making this a watch totally dedicated to passion in both its internal and its external design. Its extravagance and unmistakable charisma give the timepiece its unique quality, conveying an impressive dignity and a luxurious exclusivity on the wearer’s wrist.

121

MOVEMENT automatic, CFB 1969, diameter 17.5 mm, height 4.8 mm, 25 jewels, power reserve 38 hours FUNCTIONS date, hour, minute, seconds CASE stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side, caseback with sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 26.5 mm

141


height 9.41 mm, 38 diamonds FC TW vvs 0.5 ct


REF 00.10551.07.25.31

PATHOS Queen

142

CASE height 9.08 mm



REF 00.10550.08.25.21

143

CASE height 9.41 mm,

38 diamonds FC TW vvs 0.5 ct



REF 00.10551.08.25.31

122

PATHOS Princess

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1855 FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), diameter 25 mm, height 6.96 mm

144


height 6.96 mm


REF 00.10520.07.26.21

145


height 6.94 mm, 36 diamonds FC TW vvs 0.45 ct


REF 00.10521.07.26.31

123

146

CASE height 6.96 mm



REF 00.10520.08.26.21

147

CASE height 6.94 mm,




REF 00.10521.08.26.31

124

ALACRIATHE ART OF JEWELRY

AS PRACTICED FOR DECADES

Since time immemorial people have been fascinated by the sparkle of jewels and diamonds. By adorning themselves with fine jewels they express their personality and zest for life, emphasizing beauty in their own special way. For example, with a jewelry watch from Carl F. Bucherer – a masterly synthesis of the traditional craft of the watchmaker and the art of jewelry at its best.

Intuition and manual skills have produced rare, timeless pieces of jewelry dedicated to the glittering presentation of time.

To create this glittering beauty, the watchmakers and jewelers at Carl F. Bucherer will have devoted innumerable hours and all their technical know-ledge. A process that begins with selecting the precious raw materials, chosen on the basis of the color, purity and cut of the diamonds. Choosing the right jewels involves understanding their exquisite nature and the extraordinarily high quality required. Only the best jewels are used. The latest processing technology and a great deal of skill and care are coupled with a real apprecia-tion for manually set gems.

Each stage in the process requires time; every single movement is checked by an expert. Experienced polishers give the watches their final polish and their definitive sparkle. A sparkle that appears not only in our jewelry watches, but also in the eyes of the women who wear them.

126

ALACRIA RoyalRoseA ROSE IS A ROSE IS A ROSE

The queen of flowers radiates beauty, elegance and brilliance. Her loveliness united with strength makes the rose the fragrant enchantress that, for thousands of years, has inspired poets, artists and lovers in equal measure. Now her aristocratic allure and magical power twine round the radiant dial of the Alacria RoyalRose – a tribute to feminine grace.

127

148

DIAL 18 K white gold & mother-of-pearl

115 diamonds TW vvs and sapphires 1st quality, 0.45 ct

STRAP embellished goatskin,

18 K white gold pin buckle with 47 diamonds TW vvs and sapphires 1st quality 0.55 ct


REF 00.10702.02.90.18

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1850 FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE 18 K white gold, 274 diamonds TW vvs and sapphires 1st quality 2.5 ct, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), dimensions 26.5 × 38 mm, height 7.4 mm

ALACRIA RoyalRose

128

Swans are part of Switzerland’s Lake Lucerne as much as it’s Chapel Bridge. Or indeed the Bucherer family, which in 1888 formed the company that bears its name.

Thus the Alacria Swan is a tribute to the city of Lucerne, its lake, and the Bucherer family.

With the Alacria Swan, Carl F. Bucherer demonstrates once again the extreme-ly high standards of jewelry making as practiced by the company – but with an opulence never seen before. More than 1,300 white diamonds of the highest quality, and the curved form of this sparkling piece, embody the purity and beauty of this proud swan. Together with a case that recalls feminine forms and a bracelet of 18 K white gold, the Alacria Swan is an expression of unsur-passable feminine grace and elegance.

The swan is regarded as an extremely faithful creature. It goes without saying that any woman who wears an Alacria Swan will never be parted from it. Unless she can no longer tolerate the admiring glances she gets.

ALACRIA SwanPERFECT BEAUTY

131

149

DIAL 18 K white gold, 137 diamonds FC TW vvs 1.2 ct

CROWN 1 diamond TW vvs

BRACELET 18 K white gold, 844 diamonds FC TW vvs 8.7 ct


REF 00.10702.02.90.27

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1850 FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE 18 K white gold, 348 diamonds FC TW vvs 3.30 ct, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), dimensions 26.5 × 38 mm, height 7.4 mm

ALACRIA Swan

132

ALACRIA DivaRARITIES WITH DEFINITE ALLURE

In a limited edition of just 25 pieces worldwide, the goldsmiths and gemstone experts at Carl F. Bucherer have given full rein to all their creative powers. With the Alacria Diva Limited Editions, they provide a conclusive answer to watch lovers who insist on the ultimate timepiece. This rare object is a watch for a favored few and, at the same time, an affirmation of life and all its many pleasures. That, of course, is something it shares with all the models in the Alacria collection.

134

150

CASE 54 top-quality baguette-cut rubies 5.0 ct,

157 top-quality rubies 24 ⁄16 1.0 ct, 82 diamonds FC TW vvs 1.3 ct

CROWN 18 K white gold, 1 top-quality ruby 0.05 ct

DIAL 74 diamonds FC TW vvs 0.70 ct

STRAP textile,

18 K white gold pin buckle with 13 diamonds FC TW vvs 0.15 ct


REF 00.10706.02.99.11

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1851 FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE 18 K white gold, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), size 31.35 × 45 mm, height 9.3 mm

ALACRIA Diva Gothic

135

ALACRIA Diva WildCat

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1851 FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE 18 K yellow gold, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), size 31.35 × 45 mm, height 9.3 mm

151

CASE 181 black, yellow and orange sapphires 24 ⁄16 3.6 ct

DIAL 150 black, yellow and orange sapphires 24 ⁄16 2.0 ct

STRAP textile,

18 K yellow gold pin buckle with 4 diamonds FC TW vvs 0.10 ct


REF 00.10706.01.99.12

136

ALACRIAA TRIBUTE TO ALL THAT IS FEMININE

There is something divine about every woman. This was well known to Goethe, who was enchanted by women, over and over again, with their sensual radiance and natural grace. This divine element has also inspired Carl F. Bucherer to create the Alacria Diva, the Alacria Queen and the Alacria Princess – a jewelry watch symbolizing our ambi tion for the highest perfection.

With its rectangular form and its concave case edges, this is a beautifully formed tribute to “eternal femininity”.

Created from the conviction that true beauty is a lasting and timeless value.

137

153


STRAP water snake and lizard skin,

18 K yellow gold pin lock folding clasp

REF 00.10705.01.21.11

154


STRAP python skin,


REF 00.10705.01.21.12

152

STRAP python skin,

18 K yellow gold pin buckle

REF 00.10705.01.21.01

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1852 FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE 18 K yellow gold, domed sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), dimensions 31.3 × 45 mm, height 8.7 mm

ALACRIA Diva

138

ALACRIA Queen

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1850 FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE domed sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), dimensions 26.5 × 38 mm, height 7.4 mm DIAL mother-of-pearl

156

CASE 18 K yellow gold,


BRACELET 18 K yellow gold,

18 K yellow gold folding clasp

REF 00.10701.01.71.31

157





REF 00.10701.01.71.32

155





REF 00.10701.01.71.11

139

158

CASE 18 K white gold,


STRAP python skin,

18 K white gold pin lock folding clasp

REF 00.10701.02.71.12

159

CASE 18 K white gold,


BRACELET 18 K white gold,

18 K white gold folding clasp

REF 00.10701.02.71.32

140

ALACRIA Queen

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1850 FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), dimensions 26.5 × 38 mm, height 7.4 mm

161




REF 00.10701.08.15.31

162




REF 00.10701.08.16.31

160

STRAP textile,

stainless steel pin buckle

REF 00.10701.08.15.01

142

163

CASE dimensions 26.5 × 38 mm, height 7.4 mm

REF 00.10701.07.15.21

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1850 FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE stainless steel and 18 K rose gold, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm) BRACELET stainless steel and 18 k rose gold, stainless steel folding clasp

ALACRIA Queen TwoToneALACRIA Princess TwoTone

165

CASE 40 diamonds FC TW vvs 0.3 ct,

dimensions 21 × 30 mm, height 6.2 mm

REF 00.10703.07.15.31

164

CASE dimensions 21 × 30 mm, height 6.2 mm

REF 00.10703.07.15.21

144

ALACRIA Princess

MOVEMENT quartz, CFB 1950 caliber FUNCTIONS hour, minute CASE domed sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm), dimensions 21 × 30 mm, height 6.2 mm

166



DIAL mother-of-pearl



REF 00.10703.01.71.32

167






REF 00.10703.01.71.11

168






REF 00.10703.01.71.31

145

169

CASE stainless steel



REF 00.10703.08.15.21

170

CASE stainless steel,




REF 00.10703.08.15.31

171

CASE stainless steel,




REF 00.10703.08.15.11

146

GLOSSARY

GMTThe abbreviation for Greenwich Mean Time. The Prime Meridian, the basis of the world’s time sys-tem, runs through Greenwich, in London. In the watch industry, this abbreviation also stands for the display of a second time zone. However, there is a multitude of different types of functions of varying complexity. The GMT mechanism in our CFB 1901 caliber is one of the more exclusive of its kind: because the hours-hand can be advanced or turned back exactly one hour at a time using the crown and independently of the rest of the dial train. While this is going on, the movement continues to run uninter-rupted. A 24-hour hand also shows other time zones. These functions, in combination with a chronograph, are unique.

HELIUM VALVEA helium valve provides functionality for divers oper-ating at great depths for prolonged periods of time or under saturation. When the diver is descending and ascending in the diving bell, the helium valve ensures that the gas escapes automatically so that the case will not be damaged.

LOUISIANA ALLIGATOR LEATHERThe fine leathers come from animals of the species Alligator mississippiensis, which are bred in strictly controlled farms in the US state of Louisiana. The most valuable part of the skin is that covering the belly, with its smooth, grained, scaly pattern. After a highly complex tanning process, the leather goes through 60 different stages before emerging as top-quality wristwatch straps.

MONOPUSHER MECHANISM (PATRAVI TRAVELTEC)Carl F. Bucherer is the first watchmaker in history to have developed the monopusher. Each time it is pushed, it moves the 24-hour disk in precise one-hour steps forward or backward. One of its more sophisticated features is an integrated switch that makes it child’s play to alter the direction in which the disk rotates. This complication is registered for patent.

ANNUAL CALENDARThe annual calendar eliminates the problem con-fronting owners of wristwatches at the end of a month with 30 days. Standard, simple calendar mechanisms always switch from the 30th to the 31st, which means the owner has to advance the calendar manually to the 1st of the following month. At the end of short months (such as April), however, the more complex mechanism found in an annual calendar switches directly from the 30th to the 1st. Only once a year, at the end of February, does the date require a simple manipulation to switch it to March 1st.

CERAMICSCeramic components are extremely hardwearing and resistant to heat. The material is very hard and brittle but not malleable. Apart from this, ceramics are chemically very stable.

CHRONOGRADEThe ChronoGrade trademark is used by Carl F. Bucherer to describe a multifunctional mechanical chronograph with the revolutionary retrograde hours counter.

CHRONOGRAPHAdditional function that enable the measurement of time intervals up to 12 hours. Most watches feature a central stop hand that can be started, stopped and reset to zero by pressing the push-piece. This hand makes one revolution per minute. The standard balance wheel frequency of 28 800 vibrations/hour enables a maximum measuring accuracy of 1⁄ 8

th of a second. The elapsed minutes and often hours are shown on additional subdials. The third subdial generally displays the dragging small seconds.

CHRONOMETERA chronometer is a high-precision watch whose movement has been tested by the Swiss Chrono-meter Institute (COSC) for a period of 15 days in five positions and at three different temperatures. The movement must maintain the necessary accuracy throughout the entire test period. Every chrono-meter is unique because it has its own individual number engraved on the movement and comes with a certificate that shows the results achieved.

COSCAbbreviation of the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, Switzerland’s official chronometer testing institute. The COSC is a government-run nonprofit organization whose job is to put move-ments submitted by manufacturers through a series of exacting tests to establish their accuracy. Every movement that reaches the prescribed standards is awarded the much-coveted chronometer certificate. The COSC has three testing centers: in Biel, Geneva and Le Locle.

DECORATED MOVEMENTSWatch movements can be finished in a variety of ways. Common decorations include surface treat-ments such as Geneva stripes or circular graining, chamfered and polished edges, and polished and blued screws. Generally speaking, Carl F. Bucherer movements are finished to the highest possible standards and are a feast for the eyes.

FOURX“Four eXternal Materials” stands for four different materials: palladium, ceramic, titanium and rubber.

FULL CALENDARA full calendar has displays for the day, date, month and phase of the moon.

GOLDPure 24 K gold is almost never used in the manufac-ture of watch components because it is too soft and difficult to polish. 18 K gold contains 750 ⁄1000 parts by weight of pure gold and is alloyed with a total of 250⁄1000 parts of copper, palladium, silver or other metals. As a result, the gold is harder, takes on an attractive sheen and, depending on the proportion of the other elements used, a specific color. All our gold cases are examined by the Swiss precious metal control center and their quality confirmed with a punched insignia.

147

PALLADIUMA rare, silvery-white transition metal belonging to the platinum group. It was discovered in 1803 by William Hyde Wollaston, who named it after the asteroid Pallas.

PERPETUAL CALENDARIn view of the complexity involved, this mechanism is one of the most demanding achievements in watchmaking. It will show the date correctly, with no need for adjustment until 2100, regardless of whether the month has 28, 29, 30 or 31 days, taking the irregularities of the leap years into account. According to the Gregorian calendar, 2100 will not be a leap year, which means, exceptionally, that the movement must be advanced manually on March 1st

2100.

POWER RESERVEThe time for which a watch with a mechanical move-ment will run until the mainspring is completely exhausted. Depending on type, a fully wound move-ment has a power reserve of 40 to 55 hours. A dedi cat ed display shows how much power remains.

ROTOR (ALSO KNOWN AS A WINDING WEIGHT)An important component in any automatic move-ment. The weight, which is usually positioned centrally in the movement, rotates in response to the tiniest movements of the wearer’s wrist. The rota-tional movements are transmitted through a wheel and pawl system, which winds the mainspring in the barrel. A watch with an automatic movement that is worn regularly will never wind down. By Carl F. Bucherer watches, the winding oscillating weight is mounted peripherally, which provides an unimpeded view of the carefully decorated microcosm. This movement combines the aesthetic appeal of a hand-wound movement with the convenience of automatic winding.

RUBBERAn elastic, resilient natural product with insulating properties that comes from trees in the tropics. In the watch industry it is used mainly for pushers, crowns and straps.

RETROGRADEDescribes a hand that can return to an original position.

RETROGRADE HOURS COUNTERA special type of display on the hours counter that has given the Patravi ChronoGrade its name. When the stopwatch is started, the retrograde hours counter between 7 and 8 o’clock counts off the number of hours elapsed and moves down the semi-circular scale. After six hours, the hours counter moves back instantaneously to the starting position and starts counting the hours all over again.

SAPPHIRE CRYSTALSynthetic sapphire crystal is the hardest type of glass used in watchmaking. It is almost as hard as diamond. In order to optimize readability and the optical impact of the dial, selected crystals from Carl F. Bucherer have an anti-reflective coating on both sides. These are produced by vapor-coating the glass in a vacuum with several whisper-thin layers of metal.

SECTORSThe hand of a display moves evenly within a sector, as is the case with a conventional power reserve indication.

TONNEAUThe word “tonneau” comes from the French and means “barrel”. The term has established itself in the watchmaking industry and is used to describe a barrel-shaped case. This form was very popular back in the 1920s.

TOURBILLONThe concept of the tourbillon was first developed around 1795 by the French-Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet. A tourbillon aims to counter the effects of gravity by mounting the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage. This device makes it possible for the balance wheel and escape-ment to rotate around themselves – making them independent of the position of the watch.

T-GRAPHThe T-Graph trademark used by Carl F. Bucherer perfectly sums up the character of this Patravi: a chronograph movement housed in a barrel-shaped case.

TITANIUMIs a light, blackish-colored transition metal which is both highly malleable and corrosion-resistant. It was discovered in England in 1791 by an amateur chemist named William Gregor.

TRAVELTECThe TravelTec trademark speaks for itself: the flagship of the Patravi collection is a technically sophisticated timepiece with an unusual time zone function that makes it ideal for travelers.

VICKERSIs a unit commonly used to express the hardness of materials. By definition, hardness is the resistance shown by a material to indentation by a body. This type of hardness testing was developed by two engineers, R. Smith and G. Sandland, in 1925 and named after Vickers, the aviation company. With a hardness of 10 000 Vickers, diamond is the hardest material of them all.

Carl F. Bucherer: Collection Book 2015/15

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