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Bionic Gear Bag

By RipStitcher www.bionicgearbag.com

All rights reserved. © 2014 Sally Thompson www.RipStitcher.com 525 Valley Drive, Castle Rock, CO 80104


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Materials List

• Fabric (44” wide) - 1 ¼ yard if doing all in one color, more if directional or fussy cutting. I suggest you use quilting weight cotton - at least for your first one.

• Exterior Batting - a 10” by 17” piece • Interfacing for linings (I like Pellon SF101 Shape Flex) - 1 1/2 yard• 22” Polyester / Nylon Zipper for Exterior - 1* • 9” Polyester / Nylon Zipper for pockets - 4• Thread • Sewing Machine Needles - I have good luck with Microtex size 80/12 & 90/14’s • Optional: 2 snaps for attaching fabric dish to “The Box”/interior front flap. I prefer

magnetic ones.

About batting: Personally, I like the finished feel, structure, and look of this bag by using batting on the Exterior (Piece “A”). I’ve used both a synthetic lightweight fusible as well as a scrap of Warm & Natural cotton batting. Both are fine, in my opinion, but I prefer the Warm & Natural. Skip using interfacing on the exterior piece if you’re using batting.

*Note: if you can find an extended tab zipper for the exterior 22” zipper, those add a nice touch. The tab is slightly longer. They look nice & work great on bags.

Fussy Cutters: Please see the individual pattern piece dimensions and helpful tips in the cutting section to calculate fabric requirements if your bag is destined to get colorful & interesting. :)


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A few things before starting …

First, a big thank you for buying this pattern. I appreciate you.

Secondly, I just learned that Craftsy sends out a notice to everyone that buys a pattern when the pattern is updated. That's a *great* feature, but… That means that if I even fix a typo and reload the pattern, Craftsy alerts you. I don't want everyone freaking out over typos. With this in mind, if I were you, I would consider printing as little as possible while we get the first feedback in.

If you have an iPad, tablet or a laptop that can be in your sewing space, I suggest reading your PDFs from a device instead of printing. I put quite a few pictures in this pattern, and it's a real killer on ink. Save paper- save a tree. :)

Why I built this thing:

I think of it as a 12 ounce coffee cup. :) Think about it … really… why have an 8 ounce cup when the 12 ounce cup gives you room for sugar and cream, and enough room to stir it? I think it’s nicer holding a big cup, too. All in all, enjoying a 12 ounce cup is a great experience - even if you don't fill it all the way to the top!

The same goes for this bag. I needed something to hold all of my favorite things when I go to sew. And I needed another one to hold computer cords and such. And then I have friends that want it for scrapbooking stuff, cosmetics, jewelry… So I drew this thing up to be multi-purpose.

After all, what good is a bag if you still have loose odds and ends rolling around in your tote?

There is a video on YouTube that shows details of the bag: http://youtu.be/CHuZ81P4r-Q


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Two items that I always carry with me are 1) a magnetic pin dish and 2) Clover brand Wonder Clips. The magnetic pin dishes are just awesome, and I can’t imagine how I got along for decades without the Wonder Clips! I couldn't find a bag designed well to hold these. Moreover, I wanted the bag to work nicely without having to rut through it to find things. The compartments are of varying widths to adequately hold specific items safely and securely - and still open up to be a very useful, practical, and enjoyable item when at classes, retreats, in the RV, on an airplane, etc.

I want you to be just over-the-moon thrilled with your accomplishment when you finish your bag. :) So to that end, I also put up a website to help out:

http://www.bionicgearbag.com ( referred to in this pattern as "the site")

This is kind of a crazy thing to do - a site just for this bag, huh? But… it’s a test. I needed a place to put a few videos and more detailed pictures. Also, I want to see if I can do something that will rock some people’s world and get them excited about sewing. You, personally, might not need or want any extra info. But I’m hoping that the extra tips and help over on the site will create more confidence in people new to sewing or new to making bags. Or … at least create a fun place to go to see pictures and videos that help illustrate the assembly.

The site is brand new -hatched in April, 2014. It will be evolving over the course of the following months. The Early Birds will hopefully roll a little with me as I add videos and pics from the last bag I just built as well as there will be loads more to add as we do the first Sew Along. I'm also looking forward to improving this from the feedback I receive from the pattern testers.

If you’re comfortable with measuring & simple sewing techniques, I think this PDF will get you through making the bag just fine. The site is meant to be overkill in a way - but hopefully, it will

http://www.bionicgearbag.com


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take up the slack for newbies. Hopefully, anyone that has a healthy relationship with their sewing machine can accomplish this bag. :)

If you find you need more illustrations, help, or detailed info:

http://www.bionicgearbag.com/tutorials

The password to the additional tutorials is currently: lovethisbag

BONUS DEAL: On May 1st, 2014, I am starting a sew-along on bionicgearbag.com for this bag, breaking down the individual parts of constructing this bag in detail. Much of the first sections are already completed for it (it was easier to do while writing these instructions). Please join in - I’d love your feedback! As the sew-along happens, the parts will help greatly in adding to the tuturials of the site. The questions and comments will help fine tune the tutorials - if the pattern testers and Sew Alongsters think we need it. Then, the info will remain for the future. Pretty cool.

Got questions? Please email me. [email protected]

Happy Stitching!

- Sally aka RipStitcher

http://www.bionicgearbag.com/tutorials

http://bionicgearbag.com

mailto:[email protected]


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So here we go…. Be Creative! Now the fun starts… it’s time to be creative - if you so desire!

The exterior piece of this bag is approximately 9 ¼” wide x 16 ½” around.

Consider jazzing up your Exterior -Piece A- with:

Applique • Beadwork • Directional Fabrics • EmbroideryFabric Painting • Machine Embroidery • Piecing

Quilted - traditional, scrappy, string, etc • Ribbon EmbroiderySelvedge Edge (one of my faves!) • Ticker Tape • Trim bindings

Fussy Cutters: See the notes in the cutting section for sizing.

Laminating <-- Only for the brave - see info under "Freebies" on the site.


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General Pattern Stuff to Know…

Note: You’re getting this pattern from me (and not some big pattern company!) So…. I’m writing this as if we were having fun and doing this project together. :) I hope this approach helps to make this more understandable. I want to enjoy my time making this for you, and in turn, I hope this makes this project more enjoyable for you, too.

If you're an expert sewer, you might think this is overkill. But, I'm truly hoping it's a good thing for people just startin' out. No matter your skill level, your feedback is welcomed….

*** It’s a good idea to read each section in it’s entirety before starting that section. ***

Grab your beverage of choice and let’s get started….

• Note: Dimensions. It is universal nomenclature to have the last dimension given be that of the “height”. (Irks me to see patterns that don’t do this!) Unless stated otherwise, the first dimension is width (as you would be looking at the open bag) and the second is the height from top to bottom.

• Seam allowances are ¼”, unless specified differently for a certain part.• "The Box" is the front inside lining that forms a tray when open. • If you’re muscling a seam with lots of layers, I find it better to make a first stabilizing

seam with a longer stitch (about 3.0-3.5 mm) very close to the edge (no more than about ⅛”) and then go back and make my pretty ¼” seam without having to deal with pins distorting the seams. This is especially useful if you’re working with directional prints that you want to have line up perfectly parallel with your seam. Just sayin’. :)

• Because we want the durability… and much trimming is going to be going on, use a short stitch on your machine for constructing your seams - 2mm or so.

• Microtex Needles: I like these and have had great results with them. They’re sharp and seem very well suited for going through lots of layers. Only because I’m fanatical about enjoying the right tools for the job, I use 80/12 and then switch to the 90/14 when going through the final stages of the bag. You can consider starting with an 80/12 and see how it goes. If your machine starts skipping stitches or you see some other problem, switch it up to the 90/14.

• I use a lot of Clover Wonder Clips as I do my projects like this. So to avoid any possible confusion as to what a “clip” is (as in being confused with clipping/cutting with a scissor) I’ll be referring the Wonder Clips as WC’s. Hope this helps.

• Also, the words “Zip Pocket” come up so often in the course of writing this that it’s almost nauseating to read. So “Zip Pocket(s)” may be referred to as ZP or ZPs. Zip Pockets have zippers. Pouches don't. There are 4 ZPs. Okie dokie? :)

• Reiterating: "Pouches" are created with the lining pieces between the Zip Pockets.. They don't have zippers. Hope that helps. :)

• The initial videos were done before ZPs were distinguished to be different from a Pouch - so don't take those words literally in any of the videos.


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•• PAY ATTENTION to the accuracy check on the printed pattern piece "I". If your printer

scales or alters that piece, you're going to have a problem.

• "Front" means the closest part of the bag if it were open and facing you. The closest pattern piece for the lining is “A” - which forms "The Box" / tray when the bag is open.

• "Back" means the hind end farthest away from you - if the bag were open and facing you. The back lining piece is “F”.

• Right side (RS) & Wrong Side (WS) of fabrics is self explanatory, I hope. :)


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Cutting Instructions

From Cotton:Tip: If you’re cutting your bindings from the same fabrics you will be using for other parts of

the bag, it’s a good idea to cut those first to make sure you have adequate length available.

ZP = Zipper Pocket, remember. :)

“A” - Exterior Fabric: 10” x 16 ½” “B” - Front Inner Flap Lining “The Box” to ZP #1: 10” x 10 ½” (includes up to 1 ½” of extra

ease from front to back) “C” - Lining that creates Pouch between ZPs #1 & #2 : 10” x 7 ½” “D” - Lining that creates Pouch between ZPs #2 & #3 : 10” x 9 ¾”“E” - Lining that creates Pouch between ZPs # 3 and #4 : 10” x 10 ½”“F” - Rear Lining from ZP #4 to Binding on Zip #5 : 10” x 10 ½” (includes up to approx 1” of

extra ease from front to back) “G” - ZP Lining for inside ZP #1 (cut 2) : 10” x 3 ½”“H” - ZP Linings for inside ZPs #2, #3, & #4 (cut 6) : 10” x 4 ½” “I” - Sides. Exterior & Linings (cut four) : use pattern pieceNote: For fussy cutters: each “I” piece needs about 5”x 14” of fabricNote: Do the accuracy check on the pattern piece! “J” - Side Bindings (cut two) : each is 2 ¼” wide by 18” long “K” - Zipper #5 / Exterior Top Binding (cut two) : each is 2 ¼” wide by 24” long“L” - Zipper Tabs (cut two) : 1 ¾” x 3”“M” - Removable Fabric ‘Dish’ : (cut two) 6” x 6”

From Interfacing: Only needed for each of the pieces above with the same letter:“A” (only if not using batting): 9 ¾” x 16 ¼” "B" , "E" & "F" : 9 ¾ x 9 ¾ (so you need 3 pieces this size)“C” : 9 ¾” x 7 ¼” “D” : 9 ¾” x 9 ½” “I” : Cut two from the pattern piece. Trim edges slightly (about ⅛” )

From Batting: “A” : 10” x 16.5” “M” : 5 ¾” x 5 ¾”

Note: G & H are the linings *inside* the ZPs. To visualize: when your bag is completed, and the pockets with zippers are zipped up, you can't see them. :)

B, C, D, E, & F are the linings *between* the ZPs. If you're confused, see the video on the site. A rundown: B - makes the inside front flap and the bottom of "The Box" as well as goes up the front to meet Zipper #1. C - makes the slim pouch between zips #1 & #2 - it's where I store my


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shears in the video. D creates the pouch between zips #2 & #3. It's the area sized for spools of thread. E is the widest pouch - between zips #3 & #4. It's wide to accomodate a magnetic pin dish and fabric dish that holds my Wonder Clips. F makes the back pocket behind zip #4 and lines the back end of exterior piece A.

The photo above will hopefully help you visualize where the individual pattern pieces end up in the finished bag.

Tip: Cut as close to being on the square of the weave of the fabric as possible. Sometimes, if your fabric is really wonky off the bolt, you should “square up” the fabric by pressing before cutting.

Tip: For sewists that have that "garment-sewer-gotta-lay-all-the-pieces-out" before cutting mentality: Really, you usually don't. But I did try to do you a favor and snapped pics of the layouts to help. No need for them here - check the site, please. :)

Tip: Prewashing. Personally, I never do it. (Oh, did I say that out loud?!?!) But that said, while working on the “fox” themed example for this one, omg, I wish I had. It shrunk terribly when I just misted it to press it. I watched it shrivel before my very eyes. Note to self: maybe stay away from this brand of cotton in the future! This is another reason for cutting the panels slightly wide (which my dimensions do have in their allowances) and trimming down later. But… the bag still turned out fine, anyway. Once you go through this process, you'll find these type of projects are generally more forgiving than quilting or garment making.

Note: As you’re working, pieces “A” thru “H” will be trimmed down to a finished width of about 9 ¼” inches. As you are sewing these panels together, it is easier to line the parts up from their centers and not worry about getting the edges to fit perfectly to each other until later in the process.


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Tip: I cut my fusibles ¼” inch less than the project pieces they are stabilizing so that the pieces fit slightly inside the wrong side edges of the project piece when I press them. Done this way, you never get interfacing extending beyond the cotton piece when you pressing and fusing. This totally avoids sticky goobers from messing up your iron.


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Section 1 - Prep Your Parts

A) Exterior Piece “A”Create your “A” if you are using any quilting or funky & fun embellishment techniques. Knock yourself out and have fun with that piece. After all, this bag should be all about you - or the person you’re making it for!

Sorry for the shine on that pic.. But I hope you can see the use of directionals - both end pieces of fabric are pointed “up”. Apply batting to the wrong side of “A” and stitch a straight or zig zag very close to all four edges of “A” to secure batting. Alternately, use fusible interfacing to add a little body to this piece.

B) Cut out your pattern piece "I" and join together with tape (no overlapping). Make sure the stitching lines you see on the pattern piece are at the top. The bottom will be a raw edge until the very last stages of assembly. Should look like this when you’re done:


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Tip: If you are making more than one bag, I suggest you make this pattern piece out of scrap fabric and mark the markings with a sharpie pen on your fabric pattern piece. Fabric pattern on fabric doesn’t slide around… it makes it easy to cut without pinning.

Huge Important Note: Do the accuracy test on the pattern piece to make sure your printer didn't goof you up!

Reminder: The line you taped on the pattern piece will be ignored - so remember the line with the “squiggle” in it means nothing from now on. :)

Reminder: This piece is directional. If it matters with your chosen fabrics, remember to think about the pointed ends facing the front of the bag when it's open.

C) Apply InterfacingFuse interfacing to their appropriate pieces - only interface the pieces that are listed in the cutting section for requiring interfacing . Remember, the linings of the ZPs (G & H) do not require interfacing. Seems a few people in the beginning went overboard and interfaced those - no need, and it really wouldn't hurt anything, but… it will just make your side seams thicker and more difficult to deal with in the end.

Remember: press, don’t “iron” .

D) Mark Lining PiecesNow that you have the interfacing on:On the wrong sides, using a pencil on the interfacing (which will be hidden inside the bag later), I mark my pieces “B”, “C”, “D”,”E”, and “F” . I also mark a little arrow pointing up to make sure I don’t flip a piece by accident when sewing. You’ll appreciate seeing all of those arrows going in the same direction later - during construction. Measure carefully… don't goof this up… lol….


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I hope you can see the "B" with an arrow pointing up. Do this for all of your pieces B through F

E) Press Bindings

1. WS together, fold all bindings in half to make a long strips that are 1 ⅛” wide.2. Press well.


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Section 2 - Assembling the Lining

• For this section, gather your pieces “B” through “H” and your 9” zippers. • Put all the other parts aside for awhile - this will keep you busy for a bit. :) • You want your zippers flat-flat to get a good result - so if they have kinks, press before using.• No stressin'!! This may look intimidating to some, but as soon as you realize this section is basically made up of doing the same (rather simple) thing 8 times… it is easy. :)

A) Installing Zippers into Lining Pieces

The B through F pieces are assembled together with a zipper & two ZP lining pieces between each one.

Additional Help: If this section sounds confusing, I made a very kick-butt (if I do say so myself!) series of videos on this section… just go hit up www.bionicgearbag.com/tutorials and look for

the series of Lining Assembly Piece B - 1st Zipper.

Remember, your password is: lovethisbag

1. We’re doing the front side of Zip Pocket #1 (ZPs from now on) first. This is also the part that makes the floor of The Box. • Get zipper #1, B and one G piece. • You will be folding each piece in half and marking that halfway point with a pin close to the edge (you’ll be removing these in a minute)• While lining up your center points, stack your materials in this order:

* top of lining piece B (orange in my example photo below) is right side up, * zipper facing down (closed, tab is up in thephoto)* ZP lining piece (aqua colored fabric in the photo) is right side down. • Pin or WC the edges together - working from centers outward. Be accurate about it


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• You may remove those half way marking pins once you have the seam lined up and secured with pins or WCs• Don’t be concerned if the edges on the ends don’t match up perfectly - we’re going to be trimming those later, anyway. The important thing is to get the pieces lined up from their centers, working outward, with no pulling, puckering, or bunching up. • Move the tab of the zipper to the middle somewhere before stitching.• Using a zipper foot, make a ¼” or slightly narrower seam - stopping with needle down & moving the tab of the zipper out of the way just before you would have to sew past it.


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• OPTIONAL: if you’re concerned about getting a really pretty seam while also tangling with 3 layers, you can just run one stitch down - very close to the edge - while only paying attention to making the seamed edges of your layers line up. Then you can go back and do the finishing seam (the one that is ¼” or less from the edge of the zipper tape) for accuracy. • Press the seam so the lining and the pocket lining piece are pressed away from the zipper• Change your stitch length to 3mm in length, topstitch this seam

When you’re done, your first piece (B) should look like the next pic. (When you flip it over, the right side of the ZP lining should be facing you. )

Voila! You just did the first part of your bag. Are you gettin’ excited, yet?

If you need reassurance, go check out the video. If a picture is worth a thousand words, those videos are worth a million. :)

2. We're now going to do the backside of ZP #1, and we're going to be attaching the bottom of "C" to your #1 zipper.

• Get C and the other G piece.• Repeat the marking halfway procedure on C, G & the other side of the zipper you just installed on B.But this time, mark the halfway point on the bottom of the next lining piece - this time, it's "C" . Think of it this way, the bottom of the next lining piece comes up to meet the zipper on the backside (if the bag is facing you) of the first ZP. When you finish lining everything up for the next seam, it should stack like this:


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* Bottom of next lining piece (C this first time) Right Side up * Zipper face down * Lining (G this time) Right Side Down NOW… this I where those penciled in arrows come in to play… Flip your piece over (before sewing)… and you should be seeing the arrows that we marked on the backsides are pointed in the same direction. Are they?

In the photo above, are you able to see the "B" and the "C" with the arrows that I drew in the Prep Section? (They’re both pointing up) The zipper is standing on end… which makes those ZP lining pieces appear that they aren’t matched up. I assure you, once you sew this seam and smooth it all out, they line up very well. :)

• If you haven’t done so already, set your machine back to the shorter stitch.• Make your seam. • Topstitch with longer stitch. • Press away from the zipper. • Admire what you just did.

3. Lather, rinse and repeat to add D, E, and F with the H ZP linings and the remaining zippers. Just watch your RSs are done correctly, zipper tabs are on the same end and pay attention to those arrows to make sure they’re all facing in the same way before stitching.

When you have all of the pieces assembled, it should look something like the photo on the next page.

Oh.. And before you get messed up because you’re looking for orange and aqua fabrics with a


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red zipper as this example … this next photo was taken when I was making the second bag. So just pay attention to the pattern piece letters and the fact that all of our arrows are pointed up. :)


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Yes, that picture got a page all of its own! Seriously, that's the first time I've ever had a need to try the "panorama" gizmo on my iPhone!

All kidding aside, I hope it illustrates the backsides of the pieces all being right side up, and if you can't see it, the zipper tabs are all facing the other way (in other words, you're seeing the backsides of the zippers here). I pinned the linings back so you could see the pencil markings I made back in the Prep section.

All of the arrows we drew are pointing up. Yay!

Also… notice how messy the sides look - that's all OK. We're going to fix that all in just a little while.

Happy little reminders: • Think about fabric direction (if it matters) when you’re pinning - including ZP linings. • Mark center points. Pin from the center out.• Check that those arrows on the backside are all pointing in the same direction before you pin • No stressing about your ends of pieces matching up - just sew happy, even seams from the edge of the zipper tape so the zippers look awesome. • Zipper tabs are all opening and closing in the same end as their neighbors• Your pocket linings are ending up right sides together when you fold at the zipper• You are switching between shorter length stitches to construct and longer ones to topstitch• Move the tab of the zipper when installing - don’t even think about trying to stitch past it!!!• Use jumper pieces of fabric to start and stop seams. You’ll appreciate this later.• Use “Needle Down” to start and stop seams & to move zipper pulls, pivot, etc. • When sewing zipper seams, focus on the edge of that zipper going by (not fabric) to get an even result. (I think I said that twice - but it's the one thing that will make your finished piece look terrific!)• Press and Topstitch each seam as you go (gives you more chances to admire your work, too!)

It’s just like magic. You should have a piece about four feet long that looks something like the previous picture when you get to this point.

How ya doin'? :)


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Section 3 - Futz Factor

My mom would be proud! I wish I had a dime for every time I heard her talk about “futzing around” with some picky little project. Looking back, “Futz” must have been the “F” word in the sewing room in the 60’s when I learned to sew! Legend has it that the word maybe came from the “F” bomb word & “Putz” combined. Sounds like a perfect term for me, then. Lol

Mom, RIP, was the queen of details and craftsmanship when she sewed. She sewed her last stitches in 1972 after a 6 year battle with breast cancer. I was 14 at the time. She knew her time was limited on the planet - so, looking back at it now, she made an extraordinary effort to teach me things (sewing, knitting, cooking, baking) before she left. I’m so grateful for what she did… I hope my granddaughter feels the same way about me in about 25 years. :) Anyway….

I hope you’re seein’ this, Mom….

I'm a passionate putzter. I love little details. Now is the perfect time to add “Futz Factor” items to your bag before going any farther. I'm going to install the magnetic snap for Optional Fabric Dish.

Skip forward to Section 4 if you don’t want to mess with this. :)

Right now, you can fold your entire lining piece with zippers next to each other and visualize your bag. If you want to add any other goodies to the areas in the front, back or in the pouches in between, now is the time to do it - before we sew up the bottoms and secure the pocket linings.

It is is easy to add features now - before we sew up the ZPs’ sides.

A) Optional Fabric Dish Snaps : If you intend on making the optional little fabric dish, and if you also desire to be able to snap it in to “The Box” to create a space for you to store a few tools vertically (see the video on http://bionicgearbag.com/what-it-does/) … then… before sewing up the bottoms of the zip pockets, you might want to install the female end of a magnetic snap closure.

Due to size limitations, all photos for this section are on the site.

1. On the top left RS of "B": Mark a dot 2” in to the left from the future right side seam stitching line* and 1 1/4” down from the middle of the zipper teeth on the zipper #1…

* The stitching line is going to be slightly to the left of the metal zipper stop. If you’re off a little, it’s no big deal.

2. Then, stitch a snap on that dot - or - I prefer to use the magnetic snaps.


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3. Placing the dot in the center of the backing washer for a magnetic snap, draw a line inside the slot to each side of the center hole. 4. Using a seam ripper, cut the slots open. Do this by poking your seam ripper into the beginning of the slot - and then poking it back through on other end of the slot before making the cut. Be careful not to cut into the pocket linings.5. Attach the female end of the magnet. (The female ends were slightly heavier than the other half of the snap on the brand I bought - so the lighter half will be better suited to be on the fabric dish - it won’t weigh it down. )

Ta Da !

You’ve just added “Futz Factor” to your bag. :)

If you’re going to get creative with other Futz Factor type items to personalize your bag, I suggest just being thoughtful of how the whole bag will close up.

A pen loop, for instance, in the top of the “F” piece would be nice.

So get crafty… think of personalizing your bag with things like this: Name LabelPen/Pencil LoopsPin CushionNeedle KeepLoops for any other favorite tools you might have

I'm thinking of adding a vinyl, see through pocket to the inside of the area where I store the spools of thread (that would be on the "D" piece)…. So I can put a 3x5" card in there with a packing list of my tools that need to go into this bag when I take it to sew. In a perfect world, it would be great to have duplicates of everything, but I'm still building my stash in my own "bug-out bag". :) Mostly, I'm waiting for Gingher to come out with another new design of designer shears so I have two sets of scissors (1 at home, 1 in the bag) and everything is matchy-matchy. :)

As you're designing, be mindful of how the exterior of the bag needs to curve when closing it.


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Section 4 - Bottom of Zip Pockets

A) Marking the stitching line for ZP #11. Starting with the B/C linings folded WS together (the ZP linings should be right sides together between the B & C layers) with the zipper folded perfectly to one side, mark a line on the fabric that is parallel and 2½” away from the top of the lining fabric fold that is on the zipper (just above the topstitching line you made).

Note:The picture above is not a picture of ZP #1 - so don’t look at the measurement on the ruler! Lol … this was a pic of ZP #2, 3 or 4. Same procedure, different measurement.

For me, it is easier to get an accurate measurement from this fabric fold line than if I tried to measure from the edge of the teeth of the zipper.

2. To prevent the pocket from shifting: Pin or WC the sides to make sure all layers (B, two ZP lining pieces K and your C) are smoothly stacked up with the zipper #1 folded in half at it’s teeth.


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B) Sew the line - creating the bottom of ZP #1.1. Open up the seam - on the WS, trim raw edge of the ZP linings that are sticking out of the bottoms to about ¼”.

C) Lather, Rinse & Repeat for the remaining Zipper Pockets #2, #3, & #41. Repeat the same process as above, but making the stitching line 3¾” (which is what was being shown in the picture on the previous page) from the folded fabric line on the zipper. 2. When done with all of the ZPs, flatten your entire lining piece. You will need to pull a little to get it to lay flat. 3.. Trim off excess zipper tails.


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Section 5 - Zip Pockets’ Side Seams

1. Starting at the lower stitching lines, sew a seam up each side of each pocket about ⅛” from the raw edges. Reinforce your stitching at the tops with a few stitches back and forth. These tops will be hidden inside the pleats - so don’t be too concerned about the looks of them - at least yet. :) 2. Trim side seamsYour lining should look like this …

When your need to admire your new, amazing ZP lining is satiated, put it aside so we can go build the side panels. :)


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Section 6 - Side Panels

A) Side Panel exterior to the side panel lining

1. Sew each side panel “I” piece to it’s accompanying lining piece - RS together -on the stitching lines - as shown on the pattern.2. Do not sew the longest straight edge, nor the curved edge. Those two edges will be sewn into the seam/binding when you assemble the lining to the exterior. 3. Clip corners well, turn, press, & topstitch the seamed edges. 4. Using the pattern piece, mark the fold lines for the pleats. 5. Press pleats to a nice crease - use spray starch or Best Press for great results.

• Your side panel should look like this when you’re done:

Please notice that the top left angle is topstitched, as well as across the top… but the bottom and curved sides are not stitched - yet. :)

Note: If you are including the Futz Factor snaps for the fabric dish, install the snap now onto the side panel lining as shown by the red dot on the pattern piece.

Note: From this point on, move all of the zippers to the middles somewhere. You are going to be forming enough things into place - and you don’t want to be dealing with the heads and tabs of the zippers being in the way.

B) Sewing the Zip Pockets into the Side Panel Pleats

1. Starting at the ZP’s bottom stitching line, encase the side seam of the ZP into the fold of the corresponding pleat. Hold with pins or WC’s. Place as deep into the pleat as you can.

Note: The pleat will extend above the zippers - So don’t freak out.


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2. Once I’ve got the ZP pinned into the pleat, I mark the left side of the metal zipper stop with a pin - just let it stick out to the top. When sewing the seam, I make sure that my machine needle passes just to the left of the pin, therefore avoiding slamming into the metal stop.

3. Start stitching at the top (to avoid any shifting of the layers) By starting at the top, I think I have the best chance of getting the best look on top. Use a jumper piece of fabric and move onto the project. Do about 3 or 4 stitches, then reverse the same 3 or 4 stitches to reinforce the top.

4. Reinforce again with a few stitches when you’re crossing over the zipper to add durability. Stitch to the bottom of the pleat - which should be ending at the stitching line of the bottom of the ZP.

Note: If, when passing by the metal stop of the zipper, it seems your seam is wider than ¼”, don’t worry. The important thing is that the bottom of the pleat be pinched about ¼” for it to fit in the best way possible when we attach this whole thing to the lining and exterior. So if your seam is a little wide at the top, just taper down gradually to ¼” by the time you reach the bottom of this seam. No stressin’. :)

• Here’s what you can expect it to look like after you get this first side attached to the ZPs.

It’s getting exciting, isn’t it?

5. Repeat for the other side.

Home Stretch time….


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C) Stay Stitching lining edges to itself…. Also known as: Arm Wresting the Side Bottom Seams…. This should be an Olympic sport. :) To all of you quilters and garment sewers… this is why I enjoy doing bags - they tend to fight back little. It’s fun to win. :) It’s like reeling in a big fish - a little fight is a good thing. :) When was the last time a blouse or a log cabin square fought back? Lol

This is where pins are your friends. :) And this is where it matters that you made ¼” seams on those side pleats.

First we’re going to stabilize the lining piece bottom edges:

1. Pin the bottom edges of the sides to the entire lining created by pieces B-F.

• I find it easiest to then stitch this whole works into place using a ⅛” seam *before* taking a shot at putting the lining onto the exterior. Your mileage may vary… but if you’re new to this, try it my way first. I think it reduces stress. :)

2. Next, you’re going to want to flatten this whole works down before going to your sewing machine.


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A few things to note:• Notice that the pins on the front of the side are facing away from me. This will make it easy to pull those pins out when the time comes at the machine.• Look closely: I’m pushing the pleats to the back (*towards* us in this view). • At the same time, if you look closely, you’ll see the ZPs are being pushed the opposite way - towards the front of the piece (and *away* from us in this view).• If you do it this way, the piece will flatten out nicely. • If some of the bottom doesn’t want to fit right between the pleats, just ease it in like you would if you were sewing in a sleeve - curve the piece to make it fit and pin like crazy! • The ends of the side panel will not match up with their corresponding “B” and “F” pieces - this is OK.

3. Stitch this down with a VERY narrow seam - about ⅛” or less. We’re still going to be stitching over this area three more times - so you want this stitching line to be hiding within the future seams & binding we’re going to be adding here.

There. The Entire Lining is done.


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Section 7 - Attaching Entire Lining to Exterior A) Match the Entire Lining to the Exterior A

• Note: The center of pleat that holds zipper #3 marks the center of the lining piece. If for some reason you want to shift your exterior one way or the other a little, it’s no big deal.

1. Pin or WC the lining to the exterior.2.. Audition your fit - I like my “A” piece to stick out past the front corner of the side panel by about 1 ½”. Likewise, in the back of the bag, piece “F” will stick up about 1 ½” to 1 ¾” beyond where the side piece attaches to “F”. • You may need to trim your lining or exterior to get a good front to back and side to side fit. • When fitting it, be sure to curve your piece around as if you were closing it to get a good feel for it. Again, I love the WC’s to hold parts together for this.3. When you’re satisfied with the fit, sew the Lining to “A” with a ⅛” seam - pushing the ZP’s & their pleats down to lay flat like we did in the last section. • We’re still going to go around this whole thing again two more times - so make sure that stitching line is narrow enough to be hidden by future seams. :)


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Section 8 - Attaching Side Bindings

My bag above has the side bindings attached, folded over to the side panel sides, and the next binding and last zipper ready to be installed.

• Applying the bindings is going to be second nature for quilters. :) For the rest of us, this is how it's done:

1. Just as we did when we were creating the Lining in Section 2, fold your Side Bindings “J” in half to find the centers. Measure the end edge of the bag to find the center there, too. 2. Match them together and pin or WC - Binding to the exterior - so it will be folded to the lining side of the bag. 3. Sew down with a ¼” seam.4. Fold the binding over the raw edge. Pin or WC so the folded edge of the binding covers the seam’s stitches.5. On the RS of exterior, stitch in the ditch , catching the backside of the binding. 6. Trim off extra ends (as seen in the image.)


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Section 9 - Grand Finale! Zipper #5

Refer to the picture in the previous section to see the layers - ready to sew.

A) Installing the Zipper

1. Just like with the other zippers we have installed, fold the binding, the zipper and the bag in half to mark the center points.

2. Layer up, starting from the center points :• Binding - raw edges facing up • Exterior A on top of the binding - Lining side will be facing you• Zipper will be right side up - so zipper pull tab is facing you this time

(so wrong side of zipper is against the lining) 3. Sew the entire length of the binding. Move zipper pull when necessary.

Note: Again, you might want to lay down a ⅛” seam first with a focus on all edges lining up nicely. Then go back and make a perfect ¼” seam by focusing on the zipper tape edge - just as we did in Section 2.


5. Fold the binding over to the interior side - and stitch in the ditch on the RS of exterior to catch the binding that is on the interior side.


7. Trim ends of binding off to match ends of zipper tape.

B) Zipper Tabs

1. Fold the Zipper Tab (piece “L”) in half to make 1 ½” long.2. Sew seam up each side - leaving the end opposite the fold open.3. Clip corners, turn, press.4. Turn open end in about ¼”. Press.5. Insert zipper end in just far enough to conceal the metal zipper stops.6. Sew across the open edge to secure to zipper and seal in the ends of zipper.7. Sew these tabs down to the side bindings, centering them to the center of your bag.


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Thanks again… and Congratulations!

Thanks so much for purchasing this pattern. Lots of work and love went into it…And I’m still not done. I truly want to make this into an awesome teaching project by utilizing bionicgearbag.com .

I truly hope you enjoyed your time building your Bionic Gear Bag & that you have many happy hours using it!

You are allowed to personally sew this item and sell the finished products… after all, once you make it, it is on the planet only because of you … and it is your property to do with whatever you’d like, isn’t it? I personally don’t see a difference between giving one away as a gift or selling one to someone.

However, please respect the work that went into this. Redistributing/sharing the pattern and mass commercial production of the finished product is also prohibited without written permission.

Lastly, please check out bionicgearbag.com for any special offers. At the time of this writing, I am looking for pattern testers and other sewists to join in on a Sew Along for this bag.

Thanks again,

SallyAka: RipStitcher www.bionicgearbag.com Personal Blog; www.ripstitcher.com

Email: [email protected]


Bionic Dumpling Fabric Dish

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BEFORE PRINTING…..

Just a thought… depending on how you feel about the price of ink, "saving a tree", or making use of a mobile device or your laptop…..

I suggest you read over this pattern and decide if it's worth printing this whole document out.

Personally, I think if you have a device to read this on, you can just print out the last page - the pattern piece itself - and avoid printing anything else.

:)


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Bionic Dumpling Dish

By RipStitcher www.bionicgearbag.com

All rights reserved. © 2014 Sally ThompsonSewMuchNicer.com

Join me: Instagram: RipStitcher Facebook: Facebook.com/officialsewmuchnicer

Personal blog: www.RipStitcher.com PO Box 824 , Castle Rock, CO 80104

720 628-0542


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A few things before starting …

Thank you!

First, please know that I'm very grateful for all of you that have chosen to spend a little time with me on my projects. I can't tell you how cool it is to know that (In a weird sort of way) that people all over the world have chosen to enjoy a little time at their sewing machines with me. :)

Stay tuned in!

If you're coming to this pattern before seeing the Bionic Gear Bag (also known as BGB to most of us!), you might want to go on over to www.bionicgearbag.com and see the video there of the bag and how it works.

Also, If you haven't done so already, be sure and join the mailing list on bionicgearbag.com . This will keep you in the loop for future revisions, freebies , and early bird specials that are offered in the future.

My Goal:

These days, my granddaughter is my main inspiration when I write instructions. At the time of this writing, she's 9 years old. I bought her a nice sewing machine 2 years ago for her 7th birthday. It's my greatest desire for her, maybe 40 years from now, to remember us sewing together - and to remember me - with great love - at quirky times for the rest of her life.

I learned so many things from my mom (even though I lost her when I was 14) that have stuck with me for all of these decades. Even now, there are times when I see myself turning out a corner on something (she made a lot of stuffed dolls) or even doing a reverse stitch on the machine (I remember the magical silver reverse button on her White sewing machine) or even something as stupid as winding a bobbin (remember pressing that rubber wheel up against the hand wheel to wind a bobbin back in the day? Lol) ….. Well… Memories kick in… I see her hands doing the work instead of mine… and I think of her and smile.

I probably wouldn't be so appreciative of sewing if it weren't for Mom… and we probably wouldn't be having this time together if it weren't for her. (Thanks, Mom.)

I hope you have similar memories of someone you love… and that you're creating memories for someone else - ether by gifting the projects you sew or teaching another - and that you make happy memories that will last for decades, too.

And in the meantime, I hope you're feeling joy as you create.

Anyway… Just know that the "success" I'm striving for is to have anyone - like my


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granddaughter - (with no fear of their own sewing machine lol) - be able to make my projects and be ***thrilled*** with their finished item. And more than that, on the way to that feeling of pride, it's my hope that sewing these instructions with me is a fun, enjoyable experience for you.

Let me hear from you!

This pattern has been tested for accuracy, but please know that if you find a typo in this pattern or something that you think could be clarified, I *love* hearing from you. Especially if you're a newbie/novice sewer.

About the Dumpling Dish

When I first designed out the Bionic Gear Bag - just for my own personal enjoyment in the beginning - there were several things that I wanted that bag to do… and two of the bigger reasons were 1) to have a tray fold out in front that "behaved" itself and laid nicely to keep my stuff rounded up and not falling of the table when I was at a class, retreat, or in the RV. And 2) to have a place to conveniently hold my magnetic pin dish as well as make it easy to use Clover brand Wonder Clips (WC's).

The first "dish" was made by just miniaturizing those microwave bowl potholders that were the rage a couple of years ago. (Are they still a rage?) :) The benefits of using the fabric dish was to hold the WC's and make it easy to grab one with out them scooting all over the place. Additionally, by making something out of fabric, (instead of a metal or glass dish, for example) is that my hands wouldn't get banged up - soft is better on cuticles and helps prevent hangnails,


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etc - as well as I personally prefer not having hard things bang around in/on other hard things in my sewing area. :) I like treating all of my tools softly - and that includes my hands. :)

So after the first little square dish worked out so well - for what it was - a simple, quick solution - I started working on creating a knitting bag that will work as well as the BGB does. We knitters have all sorts of tiny things to keep rounded up. (Needle markers, itty bitty safety pins, etc. ) So I wanted something that woud close up securely but still open up and make a wide open bowl to make it easy to access the notions.

So there ya have it. A zippered "bowl" that would work for knitting… and be a Sew Much Nicer solution for the Bionic Gear Bag . :)

Then came naming the thing that looked like an Asian Potsticker. LOL Obviously, Dumpling is a perfect word - but there are other patterns out there that use the name. So when I went to Google it, there are probably hundreds of references to "Dumpling" as it relates to cosmetic bags, etc. So I might as well go with the flow on this description for this one, too.

But mine is a "Dish". So Dumpling Dish. :)

Besides, I think my dumpling looks more like a dumpling than anybody else's does. Lol

I'm here to tell you, though, I've *never* done so much seam ripping as I have when making the tests of this thing. My first one - that you may have seen on bionicgearbag.com or on Instagram - was rather dorky in the way I finished off one end of the zipper. But in the end, it still seems that was one of the better solutions that we tried because it helps to make the bowl open up nicely when unzipped. I'm going to give you a way to opt-out of finishing yours that way - but I like the way I've been using a patch to hide that end of the zipper.

The two things that make this little pouch different from anything else out there is the square bottom on the base - which gives it that nice "bowl" effect when open - and the zipper installation that helps to round out the bowl when open.

This pattern will be in two forms - the first is a free add-on to the Bionic Gear Bag pattern and then later, it is also going to be offered as a separate pattern in two or three sizes down the road. I think this has a basis for something kind of cool - stay tuned. :)

I still like using a couple of the original square fabric dishes around my work areas at home. But for anything that travels, obviously, this zippered version is Sew Much Nicer. Depending on what you put in your own BGB, you probably could fit 3 or 4 of these in the biggest compartment of your Bionic Gear Bag …


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If you’re comfortable with measuring & simple sewing techniques, I think this PDF will get you through making your dumplings just fine.

However, I'm doing sew alongs that will have videos that will stay on the bionicgearbag.com site for the future. That site is meant to be overkill in a way - but hopefully, it will take up the slack for newbies.

Thanks for buying the Bionic patterns… I hope you enjoy them as much as I enjoy mine!

Got questions? Please feel free to reach me: Email: [email protected] Phone: 720 628-0542 (Mountain Time, USA)

Happy Stitching!

- Sally aka: RipStitcher

mailto:[email protected]


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Materials List

• 2 pieces of 7" x 9" fabrics (one color for exterior, one for lining) • 1 small piece fabric (1 1/2" x 1 1/2" or possibly less) to make a patch to cover

the tail of one end of the zipper - I'm only listing it here in case you want to use something contrasting or cute. :)

• 14" x 9" piece of Pellon SF101 Shapeflex Fusible Interfacing• Polyester or Nylon zipper - 8" or longer (you're going to trim one end back )• Thread - there will be topstitching showing on the exterior and lining• Optional - 2 sets of magnetic snaps, if you haven't gotten them already - only if

you're using this for the Bionic Gear Bag • Pressing gear - iron, ironing mat /etc• Sewing Machine Needles - I have good luck with Microtex size 80/12• Sewing Machine Feet: You'll need a regular foot and a zipper foot.

⁃ Optionally, a 1/4" foot is nice, and I found an open toe embroidery foot came in handy at the end.

Considerations & Notes:

Pellon SF101 is a fusible, woven, quite thin interfacing. I know some people in other countries can't find the stuff… so just use something very thin and fusible to add a little structure to the exterior. This is important if you are going to be attaching snaps to use your dumpling with the Bionic Gear Bag.

The use of batting and quilting this project is not advised - it would create a host of issues in construction as well as probably make the dumpling too puffy and it wouldn't hold as much.

The zipper is going to be trimmed back on one end - so nylon or polyester is desirable. If you're going to try a metal-toothed one or one with large teeth … you're on your own. :)


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Let’s get started…. Be Original!

Now the fun starts… it’s time to be creative - if you desire!

If you're making this for your Bionic Gear Bag (BGB) , it doesn't take much of a scrap or two to create your Dumpling Dish (DD) so it can coordinate with your bag. And just like the BGB -

you can let your creativity and imagination cut loose… or not. :)

I decided to take a shot at paper piecing a fox for my next BGB - which, at the time of writing this, I haven't done yet! Cross your fingers for me - I haven't done any paper piecing before. :)

Anyway, the fabrics I've hoarded for the fox have been stashed in my space for the last few months - so I dug them out to do more photos to help support this pattern. So the fabrics I

chose have cute little foxes on them - and I'll probably use some in the lining of the next BGB.

You can see in the picture above how I "fussy cut" the fabric to have a fox centered between the darts on the pattern piece. Just keep in mind that if you want to have some motif in the the

fabric to show - on the exterior or on the lining - ,you should: 1) place it above the dart dots - the blue ruler in the picture illustrates this (because the

dart dots form the corner of the dish - any fabric below the dots will be the bottom of the dish that you won't see anyway) … and

2) make sure the design you want to see is between the darts' dotted stitching lines … and

3) remember that you're going to lose 1/4" in the seam allowance on the top.

The finished exterior dimensions of the dumpling (closed) is about 5 1/2" long, 2 1/2" wide across the bottom, and 2" high. Open, it's a surprising 13 1/2" around the rim (zipper) of the

bowl and 2" tall.


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General Pattern Stuff to Know…

Note: You’re getting this pattern from me (and not some big pattern company!) So…. I try to write this as if we were having fun and doing this project together. :) I hope this approach helps to make this more understandable. I want to enjoy my time making this for you, and in turn, I hope this makes this project more enjoyable for you, too.

If you're an expert sewer, you might think this is overkill. That’s OK - skip all of this if you’d like. :) But, I'm truly hoping it's a good thing for people just startin' out. I especially love getting feedback from the new sewers out there. Let me know how you do! Let’s do this thing!

*** It’s a good idea to read each section in it’s entirety and take a peek at the pictures before starting that section. ***

Grab your beverage of choice and let’s get started….

• When manipulating a goofy little project like this with several layers (like you're going to go through putting the zipper in), I find it better to make a first stabilizing seam with a longer stitch (about 3.0-3.5 mm) very close to the edge (no more than about ⅛”) with the first two layers, then do the same adding additional layers. *Then* I go back and make my pretty ¼” seam without having to deal with pins distorting the seams. Just sayin’. :)

• Because we want the durability… use a short stitch on your machine for constructing your seams - 2mm or so.

• Microtex Needles: I like these and have had great results with them. They’re sharp and seem very well suited for going through lots of layers. Only because I’m fanatical about enjoying the right tools for the job, I use 80/12 on this one. On my machine, I found no reason to go up to a 90/14 on this one.

• Stitch Quality: If you find that your machine skips stitches, try moving your needle to a different position (usually left) and try it from there - maybe on a scrap before digging into the project. Depending on how many thicknesses you’re going through, some machines seem happier when the needle is picking up the bobbin thread from either left or center position.

• I use a lot of Clover Wonder Clips as I do my projects. So to avoid any possible confusion as to what a “clip” is (as in being confused with clipping/cutting with a scissor) I’ll be referring the Wonder Clips as WC’s. Hope this helps.

• I *hate* hand stitching. I mean, I really hate it. LOL … so I do this whole thing on the machine. After all, that's why I bought the darn thing - so I could *avoid* hand sewing! :) You might rather finish off the lining or the last little zipper patch by hand. If you do, that's cool. :) The most important thing is that you have fun in putting this together.

• Right side (RS) & Wrong Side (WS) of fabrics is self explanatory, I hope. :)


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Cutting Instructions

Important Note: Before you make the first cut, do an accuracy test of your printed pattern piece. The "fold" edge of the pattern piece should measure 3 7/8" long. If it doesn't measure that, look at the settings in your printer software and uncheck any boxes that reference "scaling" or "fit to page" or any other settings that would alter this printing at 100%.

I think it's more accurate and easier, when working with little pieces like this, to just use a marking pen and mark the fabric around the pattern piece and then cut.

From Cotton:

Cut two pieces for your exteriorCut two pieces for your lining

Interfacing: Cut two pieces from Pellon SF101 or other lightweight fusible. Cut them slightly smaller than your fabric pieces (maybe 1/8" from the edges) so you

don't goober up your iron when fusing. :)


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Section 1 - Prep

A) Interfacing

Fuse interfacing to the WS of your exterior pieces

Be sure to fuse to the exterior pieces, and not the lining. This helps the structure of the dish as well as creates a better surface to attach magnetic snaps if you are using this for a Bionic Gear Bag. Lastly, the very last seam of the lining is easier to accomplish if there is NOT interfacing on it. :)

B) Mark Darts

Tip: For the darts, I just mark the two dots on the raw edge and the dot at the point.Tip: If you make a mark directly on the edge of the raw edge of the fabric on the WS, you will be able to use that mark as your needle drop position when you go to sew the seam. Tip: To mark the dart point dot: Stick a pin through the paper pattern to your fabric piece. Then, while holding the pin, lift the paper piece and mark where the pin is poking on your fabric. (I know… this is overkill… but maybe it will help someone! No griping! Lol)

Mark the darts on both the exterior pieces and lining pieces.


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C) Clip Zipper Edges

For this little project with such curve, doing a ***little*** snip every 1/2" or so *between* the metal stops can help to make the zipper ease in during the installation. Only snip about 1/8" into the zipper - as shown as they are marked on the one below:

Remember, we're going to be making 1/4" seams on this later - so it is important to keep your little cuts less than 1/4" - or the snip might show in the end product.


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Section 2 - A few tips & reminders for this pattern… All final seams are 1/4" using about a 2mm stitch lengthTop stitching is done with a 3mm stitch length

The fabrics used in my example photos in these instructions show an orange fabric for the exterior and a light "fox" themed fabric for the interior.

If you have a "needle down" feature on your machine, you'll probably appreciate it for this project. :) For those of you that don't know what that is, it means that there is a setting on the machine that makes sure the machine always stops with the needle down - which makes moving your hands, pivoting, removing pins, etc a little easier to do without losing your place. If you don't have the feature, you're going to find that stopping with needle down while you're putting in the zipper a very handy advantage - so just use your handwheel to accomplish "needle down" when you feel the need.

Tip: When sewing several tricky layers together, I like to make a temporary seam (which is easy to rip out if need be) with a 3 mm stitch length at about 1/8" from the raw edge. If it all looks good (no puckers, everything is where it needs to be… lol) then I make my final pretty 1/4" seam with a 2mm stitch.

If you're good at manipulating goofy little stuff like this, you might be able to put the whole works down with one pass… but not me! So the directions from here on out will show my temporary stitching, too. :)

Tip: Sewing machine foot selection - I prefer to sew with a foot that allows me to see what is approaching the needle. Below are the two most common type feet used for all purpose sewing. The one on the right is a standard foot, the one on the left is a 1/4" foot. I prefer the 1/4" foot because it is slimmer (easier to go around curves, etc) as well as I like the opening leading up to the needle. If you have only sewn with the typical foot (like the one on the left) you might enjoy the differences after using a foot with a view. :)


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Section 3 - Darts A) Sew Darts

Pin the fold of the dart - making sure to fold RS together.

Tip: I like to pin each dart this way:

If you look closely on the top edge, you can see the dot I made with a disappearing fabric marker. That dot will be the needle drop position of where I start the seam.

The lower pin is marking the ending point of the dart.

Tip: I also love working with an extended stitching line made with painter's tape on the bed of my machine:

As you can see, the picture above makes it easy to guide the work to the lower pin (point of dart) accurately. By using the painters tape, you just have to follow the point of the dart mark up that center stitching line on the tape.

Start each dart from the raw edge and then sew to the point. I backstitch about 3 stitches at the point to secure the sharp point of the dart stays there forever. :)


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Remove pins - don't sew over them!

Remember… If you placed your dart markings right on the edge of the WS during the prep part, you can use that mark as your needle drop position to start your dart seams.

Tip: I like to use "starters and enders" (small scrap of fabric) to start and end seams like darts. The benefits are 1) better feeding of fabric, 2) less thread waste, and 3) less thread mess.

I used one starter piece, then I chain pieced all 8 dart seams… avoiding thread messes. :) Sew all 8 darts.


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Clip each dart open

Press open. The raw edges of the darts are going to be sewn into the zipper seam - so be sure to press open instead of to one side to avoid lumpy bumpies. :)

B) Decide What is Front & What is Back :)

If it matters in your choice of fabrics, now is the time to decide what you want to have show on the outside of the dumpling and what is going to show on the inside back lining of the dumpling when it is open and you're enjoying it when it's in use. :)

On my fox example below, I lined things up (somewhat) so I could have one cute fox showing inside the dish, and one of the exterior pieces with the quail birds showing on the outside.


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Section 4 - Zipper Install A) Considerations and notes…

Again, if it matters, you need to decide what end you want your zipper tab to be on when the dumpling is open. In my example, I want the zipper pull to be on the front of the dumpling when open and in my BGB. In other words, the zipper pull, when looking at the front of the dumpling when it's open, will be on the right.

A note about zipper installs: Have you ever noticed someone's work and the stitching seems so uneven along the zipper? There are several reasons for that… and I think the main issue is that the sewist didn't have a good reference point as she was making the seams that comprise the zipper install.

And think about this… if the stitching is "off" by 1/16th of an inch… do you notice it in the bag itself? Or just the zipper? Of course, it's just the zipper. So to help accuracy, we're going to use temporary seams and also pay close attention to the edge of the zipper tape for all sewing that has to do with the zipper install.

Oh… and before starting… I have to mention this… if you're like me and you can't wait to top stitch everything as you go along (just for that instant gratification thing!) … *Don't* do it until you get to that part of this pattern - I promise I didn't forget it - and it's almost last on this project. If you do it too soon, you'll regret it. :)

B) First temporary seam …

1. Start with your exterior piece that you want to show - RS up. Make sure the raw edges that have the stitching of the darts is UP. Don't put the zipper on the exterior bottom by accident! (Been there, done that)


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2. Place zipper, open, teeth side down, matching raw edges of top of the exterior piece and arranging it so the outside edge of the metal zipper stop (on the open end of zipper) is 3/8" away from the outside side of the exterior piece:

In the picture above, the top of the exterior piece is at the bottom of the photo. Notice the zipper teeth are away from the inside edge. The photo is meant to illustrate where you need to measure 3/8" away from the outside edge of the exterior.

Tip: When pinning a zipper down like this, I find it helps tremendously to pin the zipper so that the tiniest possible little bit of edge of the zipper extends past the raw edge of the fabric:

The picture above is meant to illustrate the open end of the darts need to be facing up and will be sewn into the zipper seam. If you look closely, you can see the grey zipper edge *barely* peeking out from under this layer of exterior piece.

The reasoning: When you're sewing the zipper down, the one thing that is a constant to use as a reference point (to get the best possible look when done) *is* the edge of the zipper. So don't hide it behind layers of fabric. :)


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Tip: When putting your pins in, first consider what direction you are going to be sewing this seam. Then, pin closer to the teeth of the zipper for this first temporary seam - with your pin points facing in the direction that will be toward your machine when you sew. If you do this right, you can leave the pins in while you're sewing right up until the head of the pin is coming to the presser foot - because they will be too far to the left (assuming you choose to sew with raw edges to the right) to get hit by the needle. This helps me get better accuracy. And, those pins will be easier to remove as you sew. :)

Remember where we started to pin 3/8" in from the edge? Now it's time to take the excess zipper tape on the open end of the zipper - the part that extends past the metal stop - and turn it away from the body of the piece of fabric. Stick a pin in there - sideways - to hold it down until your machine tacks this into place.

Last little important detail: On the end of this temporary seam that we're going to make (that means before stitching it down) make a mark on the exterior about 3/4" in from the end of the exterior where the zipper pull is going to be when the dumpling is going to be open. This is where a picture is worth a 1,000 words…. Look at the next page…


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Move the zipper down and away from the raw edge starting at this 3/4" mark - as shown above. Notice the zipper is face down - and the exterior is RS up. Sew your temporary seams 1/8" away from the raw edges of the fabric - keeping that zipper tucked down on this end. (This will make sense later. Promise)

Tip: I don't have good luck putting pins in crosswise to the zipper. Pinning lengthwise - with needle points facing the machine - makes producing the seam easier.

Before you sew… make sure that your raw edges with the dart stitching are UP. Don't sew the bottom by mistake. (Yeah, I did that once during testing! Lol)

Using a zipper foot and a 3mm stitch, we're going to make the temporary seam to hold these two layers together before adding the next piece.

Make sure your needle position is correct for your machine so you don't slam into the foot and break a needle. :) (Ask me how I know this, too! Lol)


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It should look like this as you go to sew…

It may be difficult to see… but I have room for about two stitches befoe I have to remove that sideways pin.

Oh… and about my freaky green zipper foot: This one has measuring "wings" on it that I think are kinda cool. And… it's green because it has a no-stick coating on it - just like a fancy schmancy fry pan.

Why am I using it? Frankly, because I paid too much for this foot and I have to justify it by using it. :) So I'm using the bend in the wing to mark my 1/8" edge that I want for this temporary seam. :) Did I *need* this foot? Probably not. But, I'm all about the toys. :)

And yes… there is a "starter" piece of fabric behind the beginning of this seam (under the foot in the back). This keeps me from having threads all over the place and it also protects my uber-expensive foot from getting scratched up on the bottom by the feed dogs. :)

So back to the important stuff: The zipper should be open (no need to have that zipper pull in the way!) Make a 1/8" temporary seam down the side of the zipper with approx 3mm stitches, removing pins as you go along.

And remember… especially around the curve… if your stitches get a little screwy, it's really gonna be OK. The object of the game of this first temporary seam is just to hold everything together so you can make a perfect seam a little later - with no puckers - after we have all the parts being held together. :)

Remember to have that zipper moved inward from the 3/4" mark when you reach the end.Stitch your 1/8" temporary seam by following the fabric raw edge - don't follow the zipper after that 3/4" mark. In other words, the zipper won't be sewn down after the 3/4" mark.


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See? My temp seam is even a little wonky…..

.

But isn't it cool that this is NOT your final seam all botched up like that??!? :) Seriously, it's just the pins that make everything get warped out.

Snip off the "flag" at the open end of the zipper.


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Now, place the desired lining piece RS together with the exterior piece.(this is the one that won't be as visible when the dumpling is open in your BGB - if that matters to you)

So the layers should look like this - if you're following my lead:

Zipper is openExterior piece (with zipper that we just temporarily sewed in) is fabric RS up Zipper is temporarily stitched down to Exterior piece - with zipper pull to your rightThe zipper pull is facing down. Teeth of zipper are facing downLining piece is RS down - facing the RS of Exterior pieceLike this:

Now repeat the pinning process like we did for the first side… or now you can just use WCs because that unruly zipper has been stitched down and will now behave itself. :) Match up the dart seams of the exterior and the lining and pin/WC those first.. And then get rest of the seam secured to ease in properly.

Remember - pull that zipper inward at the 3/4" mark.. You don't want to catch the zipper after


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the 3/4" mark on this temporary seam, either. :) Also.. let the very edge of the zipper peek out along the raw edge as you pin - you're going to use that as your reference point again when you sew this next temporary seam down.

Temporary stitching of lining done:

Take a peek at your work… be gentle so you don't unravel anything… but just take a look to make sure you don't have any fabric puckers at the zipper. Look good? Cool. :)

Now go back and make that pretty 1/4" seam from the edge of the zipper with a 2mm stitch length.

You probably need to either move your zipper foot or needle to find the "sweet spot" to make that 1/4" stitching easy to stitch by using the edge of the zipper tape as the reference point. Remember to keep that zipper pull end of the zipper moved inward at that 3/4" mark.


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Turn RS out and press.

If it doesn't want to lay right, you might want to go in and clip the curve of the seam inside the most drastic curve of the top of the "arc" if you want it to behave better. Be careful not to cut that pretty 1/4" seam - but know that you can get close to it because we're going to top stitch that later - there won't be any stress on those seams on the zipper.

If you clipped - turn carefully and give one more quick press. Admire. :)

Yours should look something like this at this point:

Remember, the orange fabric is my EXTERIOR. The lighter fabric is the INTERIOR.


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Now, repeat the steps of this section for the other side.Second side Zipper Install

I'll snap a few pics and notes to help you along. But if you feel goofed up, Please go back up to the detailed instructions above. My goal in showing this side of the dumpling zipper is to hopefully avoid confusion that sometimes happen when we're "flipping" the work to do the other side.

One quick tip… while you're trying to match up the two sides… Use the 3/4" mark on the open end of the zipper to line everything up… zip up the zipper past the 3/4" mark to do this. I'm using a disappearing marker for you to be able to see this… but I wouldn't make big marks like this if I were just making this myself. Make sense? See if this picture helps:


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Now, all I have to do is flip over the exterior side that is shown on the right of the picture, matching those 3/4" marks and pin the zipper there to keep it's place:

I put the pin in sideways as a reminder to myself (when sewing this) to pull the remaining zipper inwards - like we did on the first side.

Unzip the zipper… pin it down good… just like last time.

Notice the zipper is face down - zipper pull and teeth are facing the table.


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Now last pinning step for this side: Fold out that end -extending it out the raw edge side …

I'm going to sew this side starting at the end where the 3/4" mark is… making sure to push the zipper inward and then start catching the zipper into the temporary 1/8" seam at the 3/4" mark :

Notice the zipper is pulled to the left… so my first stitches are 3/4" in from the edge behind my needle when I’m first starting this seam. Remember - use longer (3mm or so) stitches for the temp seams - just in case of boo-boo's.


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And here it is, done with first temp seam on second side. Note the zipper is face down - teeth & zipper pull are face down in this pic:

Just like we did on the other side: Trim flag off open end of zipper.

Put lining piece on top of zipper - RS of lining down - remember to match up dart seams to get proper placement:


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This is a little fiddly to line up to start the seam, but remember to push closed end of zipper inward toward the fabric pieces at the 3/4" mark:

Temp stitch all 3 layers together.

Now back to 2mm long stitches… do your pretty 1/4" seam - using the edge of the zipper tape as reference - remember to keep the closed end of the zipper towards the inside of the fabric at the 3/4" mark.

Admire your seam… Press… Clip Curve if you'd like… Press again if you clipped. :)

Ta Da ! The worst is over. :)

You should know have something that looks bra-like. :)


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At this point, lay your work out like pictured above.

Zip the zipper up to just before the first dart stitching lines.

Then … let's move on to the next section! :)


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Section 5 - Bottom & Lining A) Sewing the bottom

Before you start… super important… make sure the zipper pull is now zipped in between the fabric pieces - BUT only far enough to clear the bottom edge enough so you can sew past the zipper pull as we sew up the bottoms. We're going to be doing some turning… and you need the zipper open, but still zipped up into the work a little ways, in order to do that.

See the last picture in the previous section if I've got you confused at this point. :)

1. Turn your piece so the RS of the exterior pieces are raw edges together. Pin the exterior raw edges together.

2. This part is easier than it first appears. :) Now fold the tail of that zipper in half lengthwise along the zipper teeth and then tuck the entire tail in between the RS of the lining pieces. Here's two pics to help you visualize:

Notice that on the right, there are the two layers of exterior pinned together and then just to the left/inside of that is one layer of the lining. The other lining is on the far left. The zipper is being held down between these two layers of the lining. This exposes enough seam allowance across the raw edge at the top to be able to stitch the raw edge seam together without catching the zipper in seam's stitches.

With the zipper still tucked down, bring that lining (that is on the right) over to meet up with the lining on the left - raw edges together.

You only need to pin the 1 1/2" - 2" or so of lining - because you will be leaving the middle of it open to turn the work. *Don't* sew all the way around. In the pic below… imagine sewing everything on the right between the two red Wonder Clips… and leaving the gap on the left (in


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the middle of the lining raw edges - where my hand is holding the work) that is between those Wonder Clips as the opening that you will use to turn the work.

By the way, the Wonder Clips were used in this photo just to illustrate where to sew… there is no need for them at this point.

Also… see the little "Z" that I wrote on the wrong side of that lining in the picture above? The zipper tail is under that - I just wanted to show you where that zipper tail is hiding. :)

When you sew this seam, I think it's easier to just go ahead and do the pretty 1/4" seam right away - no temp seams - because we're only dealing with these two layers.

Make sure your machine is set with the right foot and needle position to create a 1/4" seam.

Use a 2 mm stitch length.

Also… do a few stitches forward, then reverse back to reinforce both ends of this seam on that lining.

Remember… don't go all the way around - just do about 2" of each end of the lining layers - leaving the middle open.

Go to it! (We're almost done!)


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Turn your work - pull the entire works through the opening in the lining…

Then pull the exterior through the zipper opening to put the exterior where it belongs - on the exterior. :)

Now.. At this point, it should look something like this… with that goofy zipper tail inside the dumpling:


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Now, if you did everything right and didn't catch that zipper when you were doing that last 1/4" seam, you should be able to pull the bottom of the zipper out through the opening we made with that 3/4" gap.

Here's a rather odd view - looking up the backside of the zipper after it's been extracted… lol…

And here's another one… and I haven't moved the zipper pull since sewing that bottom seam…


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To pretty up this end of the zipper…

First, move the zipper pull back just far enough to reach the point that you will be able to see your dish turn into a nice bowl shape…. Like this:

PS… see?!?!? I told you that fox would show up to be super cute inside this dumpling! :)

And this next picture shows how the zipper pull needs to be pulled back - over the “rim” of the bowl so it will lay down on the exterior of the dish when the zipper is open:


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In those last three pictures, I haven't moved the zipper…I put the zipper pull up in the last one to give you a better look-see.

Your bowl should look something like these last three pictures at this point.

The goal is that you want to open up the zipper just enough so the pull goes out from being "in" the bowl to having it be just a tiny bit over the edge and on the exterior.

If you can't make a nice, rounded rim of the bowl on the end where the zipper pull is when it's open, you probably haven't opened the zipper up far enough.

Now you need to mark where the zipper head/pull is… because we're going to chop off the extra zipper and patch up the end of it - making a stop for the zipper pull.

Make a mark like this about 4-5 zipper teeth below the zipper head:

(Mental note to self… I really gotta get my nails done tomorrow!!!) :)


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Pull the zipper closed a little more to get the head of the zipper out of the way.

Then fold the tail of the zipper into thirds and pin. Like this:

Now, just to make life a little less stressful - especially if you're finishing this thing up in the wee hours of the morning - I like to just put a few stitches through the mark. And another little row about 3-4 zipper teeth away below it. Like this:

Both of these lines of stitching are going to hide under a little patch we are going to make next.


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Go ahead and cut off the zipper tail below the lower line of stitching:

Now… before we make the little zipper end patch thingie… we should close up the bottom of the lining.

If you're a person who loves to hand sew stuff… you surely are allowed to fold the raw edges under by a healthy 1/4" and whipstitch those two lining pieces closed by hand.

But me? Hand stitch? If I don't have to? Heck. No! :)

With the zipper wide open (and your last little stitches will keep the zipper together nicely for a bit), take the two lining raw edges that are left, and fold them under by a good 1/4" on each side and pin.

Here's what my pinning job looks like just before I go to the sewing machine. Notice I just pulled the lining up in the middle to make an "arc" of sorts.

Next, we’re going to stitch a super-skinny-as-close-to-the-edge stitching line as possible - on the right sides - to seal up the bottom. When you go to sew the end near the zipper head, you'll see why we didn't want to do our little patch yet!


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After stitching, it should look something like this:

And this….

Are you in awe of yourself, yet? If not, you should be. :)

Now let's go do the final step in the next section!


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Section 6 - Zipper Patch

Let me take a minute to tell you what a hassle this was! LOL

I tried so hard to find a way to install this zipper without doing this step!

But here's what I wanted:

1. The finished bowl had to be able to take the shape of truly being *round* and look like a cute little bowl… and *not* look like a fish that got opened up like my first attempt wound up being! (I've got pics of that somewhere - it worked, but omigosh, it looked terrible! Lol)

2. When closed, there couldn't be any gaps between the zipper ends and the fabric of the dish. The primary idea when I was first messing with doing one of these was for knitting notions. Some of the stuff knitters carry is *really* small - especially stitch markers and those itty bitty baby safety pins that some knitters use. So that ruled out some of the other zipper installs you see on pouches or bags that are able to open up wide. All that I've seen have a hole on at least one end. So back to the drawing board.

So after trying a few different things, it wound up that the best result to get the desired shape came from attaching the end of the zipper to the exterior of the bowl so the zipper head could move slightly over the "rim" of the bowl. The patch to cover the zipper tail stub wound up creating more roundness.

So that’s the story. :)

A) Making the zipper patch.

The object of the game here is to try to stay cute while performing the function of covering that ugly zipper tail stub. :)


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Let me show you two previous versions of the patch. First one is the original bowl, and the second one is the first "keeper" dumpling after making all of the modifications to the pattern shape and size:

The first one is large - about 1 1/2" square. The second was tiny… 1/2" wide by 3/4" high.

Keep in mind both are totally fine and work well to help structure the roundness of the bowl as well as hide that zipper tail. So at this point, you can make a patch to go over your zipper tail - and it’s OK to go as large as about 1 1/2" square if you'd like.

For my current example, I'm wanting to take a little of another color I intend to use on the coordinating Bionic Gear Bag - and put it on the outside. Remember, we only have to cover up enough of the zipper to hide those two stitching lines we made across the teeth of the zipper tail earlier.

So this time, I cut a 1 1/4" square, turned 1/4" under on all sides and pressed well with some starch product (I like Best Press) to make a crispy little patch to sew over the zipper tail.

Before stitching the patch down, with the zipper open, I stitch down between the teeth of the zipper over the side seam of the dumpling to hold the zipper tail down so it doesn't have a life of it's own when I'm trying to get the patch on straight. :)

Oh.. And what did I say about an open toe embroidery foot coming in handy at the end? This is it:


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Now, I pinned the patch on.. Making sure to point my pins in the direction to be facing the machine when I sew that side - so I can easily remove them.

This is a tiny patch - so I'm going to use a dainty little foot so I can get close to the edge of the patch accurately as well as go around the entire rim of the dumpling by the zipper with a line of top stitching. (See? I told you we would get to it! :)

So pick a foot (maybe a zipper foot? So you can get close to the edges.) and set your machine to 3 mm stitch length.

If you're tackling a small patch like this, it's really doable - but first think through where you're headed with your stitches and what foot (in your own arsenal of footsies!) will help you get the job done well. :)

Oh. And yet another green foot, you now see? Yep. I paid too much for this one, too… but I like the screwy little skinny 1/8" toe on the right - it serves the purpose of *not* using a zipper foot for a task like this. Because there is more foot down on the fabric (than a zipper foot) I think it works better for top stitching odd-ball projects like this. Slippery like a fry pan, too. (I told you I like toys!)

Yay! A Bionic Dumpling Dish completion!


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Congratulations!

…. And thanks again!

Thanks so much for purchasing this pattern. Lots of work and love went into it…And I’m still not done. I truly want to make this into an awesome teaching project by utilizing bionicgearbag.com .

I truly hope you enjoyed your time with me. While my life has been a little chaotic (that’s an understatement!) since launching the Bionic Gear Bag pattern, I’ve been truly enjoying the emails & phone calls I’ve had with other sewers all over the globe. It’s truly been a joyful thing!

A word about selling finished items while I have you here …. :) ….

There is so much mis-information out there about this topic. While I’m not a lawyer, everything I’ve read sure seems to point the fact that when you make an item, it’s *yours*.

So for my items, there is no question that you are allowed to personally sew this item and sell the finished products… after all, once you make it, it is on the planet only because of you … and it is your property to do with whatever you’d like, isn’t it? I personally don’t see a difference between giving one away as a gift or selling one to someone.

I’m looking into having some of my items made up for sale by a group of women in Cambodia. There, it’s common for sewers to earn about $2 a day. It’s shameful. So I’m investigating the possibility of my items being made there - but the people, working through a certain church group that is sourcing work for them, would earn more like $10-15 a day. Stay tuned on that. :)

Please respect the work that went into this. Redistributing/sharing the pattern and mass commercial production of the finished product in some third world country is still a no-no.

Please check out bionicgearbag.com for any special offers & to sign up on my email list.

And the new site, SewMuchNicer.com , is in the works. Stay tuned. :)

Thanks again,

Sally

Aka: RipStitcher www.bionicgearbag.com Instagram (join me there!): RipStitcherFacebook: facebook.com/officialsewmuchnicer Email: [email protected]


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Bionic Dumpling Dish© 2014 Sally Thompsonwww.bionicgearbag.com

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