Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/southern-italy-3-index.pdf ·...
Transcript of Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/southern-italy-3-index.pdf ·...
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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Anastasie Martin, Ann Thomas, David Place, Greg Thompson, Javeed Taher, Laurent Ruhl-mann, Lisa Micklewright , Oron Frenkel, Ruth Ryder, Sergiy Sumnikov, Ted Garland
AUTHOR THANKS Cristian BonettoAs always, grazie infinite to my ‘Re e Regina di Napoli’, as well as to Alfonso Sperandeo, Andrea Maglio, Susy Galeone and La Paran-za, Bonnie Alberts, Luca Coda and Harriet Driver, Alfredo Cefalo and Malgorzata Gajo, Giancarlo Di Maio, Gigi Crispino and Valentina Vellusi. At Lonely Planet, a big thanks to Anna Tyler for the commission and to my diligent co-writers Helena Smith, Brendan Sainsbury and Gregor Clark.
Gregor ClarkGrazie mille to the many dozens of people who shared their love and knowledge of Sicily with me, especially Angela, Francesco and Matilde in Palermo. Love and special thanks to my father, Henry Clark, who first showed me the wonders of Sicily. Back in Vermont,
big hugs to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, who always make coming home the best part of the trip.
Brendan SainsburyThanks to all the untold bus drivers, coffee baristas, pasta makers, museum curators and innocent bystanders who smoothed the path during my research. Special thanks to my wife, Liz, and nine-year-old son, Kieran, for their company on the road.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Koppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44
Illustration pp74-5 by Javier Martinez Zarracina
Cover photograph: Vieste, Puglia; Matt Munro/Lonely Planet
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
287
THIS BOOK This 3rd edition of Lonely Plan-et’s Southern Italy guidebook was researched and written by Cristian Bonetto, Gregor Clark, Brendan Sainsbury and Helena Smith. This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editor Anna TylerProduct Editors Briohny Hooper, Alison RidgwaySenior Cartographer Anthony PhelanBook Designer Wendy Wright
Assisting Editors Melanie Dankel, Helen Koehne, Chris PittsCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Liz Abbott, Andi Jones, Elizabeth Jones, Claire Murphy, Karyn Noble, Saman-tha Russell-Tulip, Dianne Schall-meiner, Lauren Wellicome
288 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
Aaccommodation 16, 262-4,
see also individual locations
language 281Acquacalda 182activities 20-1, see also
individual activitiesAeolian Islands 11, 178-
90, 11beaches 181, 183, 188hiking 182, 183, 184, 188travel to/from 154,
178, 179travel within 179
Agrigento 10, 214-17, 216, 10
agriturismi 262Agropoli 96Aieta 147air travel
to/from Southern Italy 273-4
within Southern Italy 276Albanian towns 146-7Alberobello 11, 117-19,
11, 159Alicudi 189Amalfi 87-9Amalfi Coast 12, 83-96, 13Appennino Lucano 143-4archaeological sites &
ruins 228Campi Flegrei 59, 99, 98Catania 195Crotone 156Herculaneum 70-1, 99, 99Locri 156Paestum 95, 99, 98Parco Archeologico della
Neapolis 203Pompeii 9, 72-8, 99, 76,
8, 98-9
Segesta 223-4Selinunte 219Sibari 156Valley of the Temples 214,
215, 215Villa Jovis 61Villa Romana del Casale
213architecture 18, 258-60area codes 15, 269-70art 256-8art galleries, see museums
& galleriesasylum seekers 226-7ATMs 17, 267
BBacoli 59Baia 59bargaining 17Bari 101, 104-7, 104baroque architecture 18,
259-60baroque art 257-8basilicas, see churches &
cathedralsBasilicata 34, 100, 135-45,
146-7, 102-3climate 100driving tour 108, 108food 28, 112highlights 100, 102-3history 135, 156travel seasons 100
Bay of Naples 60-70B&Bs 262-3beaches 19
Aeolian Islands 181, 183, 188
Amalfi Coast 87Bay of Naples 67Calabria 146, 150, 155Campania 82, 91Ischia 67Lipari 181Mondello 175
Otranto 131Palermo 175, 177Procida 69Promontorio del
Gargano 111Sicily 191, 204-5Stromboli 188Syracuse 204Taormina 191Vulcano 183
bicycle travel, see cyclingBlue Grotto 64boat travel
to/from Southern Italy 275-6
within Southern Italy 277books 226border crossings 274Bourbon rule 235-6Bova 151bread 250-1Brindisi 127-30, 128budget 15buffitieri 172bus travel
local transport 278to/from Southern Italy
274-5within Southern Italy 277
business hours 15, 143, 269Byzantine art 256-7
CCalabria 34, 100, 145-57,
102-3climate 100driving tour 108, 108food 28, 112highlights 100, 102-3history 145-6, 156travel seasons 100travel to/from 154
calcio 245Camigliatello Silano 150Campania 33, 36-97, 38-9
accommodation 36
climate 36food 27-8, 36highlights 38-9travel seasons 36
Campi Flegrei 59, 99, 98camping 263cannoli 186, 221, 186Canolo 151Capo Vaticano 155Capraia 116Capri 10, 60-6, 62, 11
accommodation 63-5activities 63drinking & nightlife 65-6food 65hiking 65shopping 66sights 61-3tourist information 66travel to/from 66travel within 66
car traveldriving tours 108, 132,
209, 108, 209to/from Southern Italy 275within Southern Italy
277-8Caravaggio 257-8cartapesta 126Casamicciola Terme 68Caserta 60Castel del Monte 110Castelmezzano 143-4Castrovillari 147catacombs 51, 52, 99Catania 194-200, 196, 2
accommodation 197-8drinking & nightlife 198-9entertainment 199festivals & events 197food 198medical services 199tourist information 199travel to/from 176,
199-200travel within 200
289IN
DEX C
- Lcathedrals, see churches &
cathedralscaves
Grotta Azzurra 64Grotta dello Smeraldo 88Grotte di Castelcivita 97Grotte di Castellana 117Grotte di Pertosa 97Naples 51Promontorio del Gargano
111Cefalù 176-8cell phones 14, 270ceramics 91Certosa e Museo di San
Martino 45-6Cetara 91Chiaia 69Chiaramonte Gulfi 209children, travel with 31-2Christmas 21, 46churches & cathedrals
Basilica di San Nicola 105
Basilica di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria 130
Basilica di Santa Chiara 37, 40
Basilica di Santa Croce 122
Cappella Sansevero 40-1Cattedrale di Monreale
175Cattedrale di Sant’
Andrea 87Duomo (Naples) 42-3Duomo (Salerno) 91, 93Lecce 124
Ciclo di Rappresentazioni Classiche 205
Civita 147climate 14, 20-1, see also
individual locationsclimate change 273coffee 28, 249Condofuri 151consulates 265cooking courses 125Corricella 69Cosenza 148-9Costiera Amalfitana,
see Amalfi CoastCostiera Cilentana 96-7costs 15credit cards 17, 267-8Croatia 109Crotone 156cucina povera 112culture 226-7, 241-5
currency 14, 267customs regulations 264cycling 276-7
Ddangers, see safetyDiamante 147Diocletian 231disabilities, travellers
with 271discount cards 264-5diving
Capri 63Ischia 67Lipari 181Otranto 131Praiano 87Promontorio del
Gargano 111Punta Campanella 82San Domino 116Stromboli 188Taormina 191
drinking 26-30, 254-5drinks, see coffee, winedriving, see car traveldriving licences 277driving tours
Puglia, Calabria & Basilicata 108, 132, 108
Sicily 209, 209drugs, possesion of 267Duomo (Naples) 42-3Duomo (Salerno) 91, 93
Eeconomy 226-7, 241Egadi Islands 189, 220electricity 265embassies 265emergencies 15
language 283environmental hazards 266-7Erchie 91Ercolano 70-2Erice 222-3etiquette 17, 29events 20-1exchange rates 15
FFavignana 220ferry travel 275-6, 277Festival della Valle d’Itria 21festivals 20-1, see also
individual locationsfood 253
theatre 205wine 51-2
Filicudi 189film 226
history 239Mafia, the 247
fishing platforms 114food 13, 18, 26-30, 248-55,
265, 12, see also individual locations
buffitieri 172cannoli 186, 221, 186cooking courses 125cucina povera 112language 282Sicilian desserts 186-7,
186, 187Slow Food movement
251football 56, 245Foresta Umbra 115Furore 87
GGaius 231Galatina 130Gallipoli 132-3Gambarie 151Gargano Peninsula,
see Promontorio del Gargano
gay travellers 265-6Gerace 151Giotto di Bondone 257Gothic architecture 259Greece, travel to/from 109Greek colonisation 156Grotta Azzurra 64Grotte di Castellana 117
Hhaggling 17health 266-7Herculaneum 70-1, 99, 99hiking
Aeolian Islands 182, 183, 184, 188
Amalfi Coast 85Basilicata 140, 146-7Calabria 146-7, 151Capri 65Puglia 115Sicily 200, 223
history 19, 228-40, see also individual locations
early settlers 228film 239Greek settlement 229
Holy Roman Empire 232-4
Lombards 231-2Mafia, the 240malaria 237-8Normans 232, 233prehistoric inhabitants
228Roman settlement 230Sicily 234-5Tangentopoli scandal
239-40unification 238-9WWI 238WWII 238-9
holidays 268hot springs 183
IIl Volo dell’Angelo 143immigration 226-7, 271-2,
273insurance
car 275health 266travel 267
internet access 267internet resources 15Ionian coast 150-1, 190-201Ischia 66-9islands 19Isole Tremiti 115-16Ispica 209Italian language 14, 17,
281-5itineraries 22-5
Jjellyfish 266
LLa Notte della Taranta 21Lampedusa 189Lampione 189language 14, 17, 281-5Latronico 146Le Castella 150-1Lecce 13, 122-7, 123, 13,
19, 159accommodation 125courses 125drinking 126-7food 125-6medical services 127sights 122, 124-5travel to/from 127
legal matters 267leishmaniasis 267
290
IND
EX L- P
lesbian travellers 265-6Levanzo 220Linosa 189Lipari 179-83, 180literature 226local transport 278Locorotondo 118, 119-20Locri 156Lorica 150Lucanian Apennines 143-4lyme disease 266
MMafia, the 161, 240, 246-7Maggio dei Monumenti
20, 51Magna Graecia 156Maiori 91, 5malaria 237-8maps 267Maratea 144-5Marettimo 220Marina del Cantone 82-3Marina di Chiaiolella 69markets 251Marsala 218-19Martina Franca 120-1masserias 118, 262Matera 12, 135-42, 158,
137, 10, 158accommodation 139-40activities 136-8drinking & nightlife 141festivals & events 139food 141history 136, 139medical services 141shopping 141sights 136-8tourist information
141-2tours 138-9travel to/from 142
Matera Gravina 140measures 270medical services 266medieval towns 18Messina, travel to/from
154Metaponto 142Milazzo 178Minori 91mobile phones 14, 270Modica 211-12
monasteriesaccommodation 263Certosa di San
Giacomo 61Certosa di San Lorenzo 97Certosa e Museo di San
Martino 45-6Complesso Monumentale
di Santa Chiara 37, 40Monastero di Santo
Spirito 214Museo Nazionale di
Capodimonte 50Mondello 175money 14, 15, 17, 264-5,
267-8Monreale 175Monte Sant’Angelo 113-14Morano Calabro 147motorcycle travel 275,
277-8mozzarella 249Mt Etna 12, 200-1, 12Mt Vesuvius 70, 72, 73museums & galleries
Certosa e Museo di San Martino 45-6
MADRE 43Museo Archeologico
Nazionale 43Museo del Palazzo
Reale 47Museo Nazionale di
Reggio Calabria 152Palazzo Reale di
Capodimonte 47, 50
NNaples 9, 33, 36, 37-60,
40, 44, 48-9, 9accommodation 36,
52-3climate 36discount cards 42drinking & nightlife 55-6entertainment 56festivals & events 51-2food 27-8, 36, 53-5history 37itineraries 41medical services 57shopping 56-7sights 37, 40-50, 51tourist information 57tours 51travel seasons 36travel to/from 57-8travel within 56, 59-60
national parks & reservesForesta Umbra 115
Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie 177
Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 96-7
Parco Nazionale del Pollino 146-7
Parco Nazionale della Sila 149-50
Parco Nazionale dell’ Aspromonte 151-2
Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 223
nativity scenes 46‘ndrangheta, the 146, 227Nero 231newspapers 270Nocelle 88Noto 208, 210-11
Oolive oil 250opening hours 15, 143, 269opera
Naples 56Palermo 170, 173
Opera dei Pupi 171Ostuni 118, 121-2Otranto 130-1outdoor activities 18-19,
see also individual activities
PPaestum 94-6, 99, 98palaces
Castel del Monte 110Palazzo dei Normanni
165Palazzo Reale 47Reggia di Caserta 60Villa Rufolo 90
Palermo 164-76, 166-7accommodation 170-1climate 160drinking & nightlife 173entertainment 173festivals & events 170food 171-3medical services 174shopping 174sights 164-5, 168-70tourist information 174travel seasons 160travel to/from 174-6travel within 176
Panarea 189Pantelleria 189Paola 148
papier-mâché 126Parco Archeologico della
Neapolis 203Parco Naturale Regionale
delle Madonie 177Parco Nazionale del Cilento
e Vallo di Diano 96-7Parco Nazionale del Pollino
146-7Parco Nazionale della Sila
149-50Parco Nazionale dell’
Aspromonte 151-2, 158passports 271-2, 273pasta 252pasticcerie 251-2Pelagic Islands 189pensioni 264Pentidàttilo 151Peschici 114-15phonecards 270Piano Provenzano 200Pianoconte 182Piazza Armerina 213pickpockets 268-9Pietrapertosa 143-4pizza 248-9, 19Pizzo 157planning 16-17
budgeting 15calendar of events 20-1children, travel with 31-2climate 14, 20-1first time travellers 16-17internet resources 15itineraries 22-5Southern Italy basics
14-15Southern Italy’s regions
33-4travel seasons 14, 20-1weather 14, 20-1
police 267politics 226-7Pollara 184Pompeii 9, 72-8, 99, 76, 8,
74-5, 98, 99accommodation 78food 78sights 73-8tourist information 78tours 73travel to/from 78
population 227Positano 83-7, 84, 13postal services 268Potenza 143Pozzuoli 59Praia a Mare 146-7
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
291IN
DEX P
- WPraiano 85, 87presepe napoletano 46Procida 69-70Promontorio del Gargano
110-15, 158, 158public holidays 268public transport 278Puglia 34, 100, 101-35,
102-3climate 100driving tours 108, 132,
108food 28, 112highlights 100, 102-3history 101, 156travel seasons 100travel to/from 109
puppet shows 171, 173, 174
QQuattropani 182
Rradio 270rafting 147Ragusa 212-13Ravello 89-91Ravello Festival 21Reggia di Caserta 60Reggio di Calabria 152-4,
153religion 227, 244-5Renaissance, the 257Riserva Naturale dello
Zingaro 223road rules 278Roghudi 151Romanesque architecure
259Rotonda 146, 147
Ssafety 268-9
car travel 278Salento 130-5, 158
Salerno 91-4, 92Salina 184-5San Costantino Albanese
146San Domino 116San Nicola 116San Paolo Albanese 146Santa Severina 150Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi 82Sant’Arcangelo 146Santuario di San Michele
113sassi 136, 139Scigliano 150Scilla 154-5Scopello 223Segesta 223-4Selinunte 219Settimana Santa 20Sibari 156Sicily 34, 160-224, 162-3
accommodation 160climate 160driving tours 209, 209food 29, 160, 186-7,
186-7highlights 162-3history 161, 234-5travel seasons 160travel to/from 154,
161, 164travel within 164, 176
skiing 150Slow Food movement 251smoking laws 270snakes 266soccer 56, 245Sorrento 78-82, 79Soverato 150Stromboli 188-90, 11Syracuse 201-8, 202, 204
accommodation 205-6activities 204-5drinking & nightlife 207entertainment 207
festivals & events 205food 206-7medical services 207shopping 207sights 202-4tourist information 207travel to/from 208travel within 208
TTaormina 190-4, 192Taranto 133-5, 156, 134taxes 14, 268taxis 278Teatro Massimo 170, 173Teatro San Carlo 56telephone services 14,
269-70Terranova di Pollino
146, 147theft 268-9thermal springs 183Tiberius 231ticks 266time 14, 270tipping 17, 268Tortora 147tourist information 270-1tours, see driving tours,
walking tours, individual locations
trabucchi 114train travel 275, 278-80Trani 107-10transport 15, 273-80
language 284Trapani 219-22travel to/from Southern
Italy 273-6travel within Southern Italy
276-80trekking, see hikingTropea 155-7trulli 116, 117, 119, 11, 159TV 270
Uunderground train travel
278unemployment 226Ustica 175
Vvacations 268vaccinations 266Valle d’Itria 116-22, 158Valley of the Temples 214,
215, 215vegetables 252-4Vieste 110-13, 3Vietri sul Mare 91Villa Romana del Casale
213Villa Rufolo 90Villa San Giovanni 154visas 14, 271-2volcanoes
Mt Etna 200-1Mt Vesuvius 72Stromboli 188Vulcano 183
volunteering 272Vulcano 183-4
Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours 215weather 14, 20-1, see also
individual locationswebsites 15weights 270wine 51-2, 254-5
Aeolian Islands 184Malfa 184Marsala 218
women in Southern Italy 243-4
women travellers 272WWI 238WWII 238-9
292
NO
TES
293N
OTES
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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
BeachGate
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Map Legend
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – March 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 687 3© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Cristian Bonetto Coordinating Author, Naples & Campania Despite his northern Italian back-ground, espresso-guzzling Cristian is an ardent fan of the country’s sunbaked south. A one-time writer of farce and TV drama, the Melbourne-born writer is hooked on the region’s penchant for intensity, irony and extremes. Cristian has both lived and holidayed in the Bel paese (Beautiful Country), his musing on the country’s food, culture and inimitable style appearing in newspapers,
magazines and websites across the globe. To date, Cristian has contributed to over 30 Lonely Planet guides, including Italy, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Venice & The Veneto, New York City, Denmark, and Singapore. You can follow Cristian’s globe-trotting adventures on Twitter (@CristianBonetto) and Instagram (rexcat75).
Gregor Clark Sicily Gregor caught the Italy bug at age 14 while living in Florence with his professor dad, who took him to see every fresco, mosaic and museum within a 1000km radius. He’s lived in Florence and Le Marche, huffed and puffed across the Dolomites while researching LP’s Cycling Italy and contributed to three previous editions of this guide. A lifelong polyglot with a Romance Languages degree, Gregor has written for Lonely Planet since 2000, with an emphasis on
Mediterranean Europe and Latin America.
Brendan Sainsbury Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria An expat Brit from Hampshire, England, now living near Vancouver, Canada; Brendan has covered Italy five times for Lonely Planet reporting on 16 of its 20 regions. For this edition he suffered horizon-tal rain in Matera and spent three minutes in a decontamination chamber in Reggio di Calabria. When not scribbling research notes for Lonely Planet in countries such as Cuba, Peru, Spain and Canada, Brendan likes to run up
mountains, strum his flamenco guitar, and experience the pain and occasional pleasure of following Southampton Football Club.
Contributing Writer Helena Smith contributed to the Naples & Campania chapter.
OUR WRITERS
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’