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epictrails topeaks,sunsets,wildlife,berries,solitude,beaches,
waterfalls,hot springs,wildflowers,ancient trees &this slot canyon>>
AmericasBest Dayhikes100
SECRETS OF THE GRAND CANYON
FIND A NEW TRAIL NEAR YOUYOURE ON OUR MAP! (P. 22)
GETREADY
FOR
SUMMERINSIDEA fitness plan for
every age group
Best daypacksand jackets
Easy new recipes
Simple ways toend joint pain
MAY 2009
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FIRSTASCENT.com
BORN OUT THERE
First American AscentEverest / Jim WhittakerOUTFITTED BY EDDIE BAUER
1963First Ascent Vinson MassifHighest Point in AntarcticaOUTFITTED BY EDDIE BAUER
1966First Route AscentEverest East FaceOUTFITTED BY EDDIE BAUER
1983
GUIDE BUILT. GUIDE TRUSTED.
FROM THE LEGENDARY BLOODLINES OF AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING
WHITTAKER, VIESTURS, HAHN.FROM THE BELIEF THAT ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE.
AND THE DRIVE TO BE FIRST, TO DO WHATS NEVER BEEN DONE.
FIRST ASCENT. THE MOST IMPORTANT NEW LINE OF GEAR IN A GENERATION.
BUILT BY SOME OF THE BEST MOUNTAIN GUIDES IN THE WORLD.
ITS EVERYTHING YOU NEED. NOTHING YOU DONT.
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Eddie Bauer / Whittaker Mountaineering Launches First AscentPeter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs, Dave Hahn and Team2009
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*18mpg city/27mpg highway (3.6L automatic transmission). EPA estimates only. Your fuel consumption may vary. **The Volkswagen Carefree Maintenance Pr ogram covers the CCs 10K, 20K, and 30K scheduled maintenance
inte rvals, during the term of the new vehicle limited warranty, at no additional char ge. See dealer or vehicle maintenance progra m booklet for details. Base MSRP for model equipped with manual transmission. MSRP for the VR6
Sport model shown is $38,700, and includes 6-speed automatic Tiptronic transmission and 18 Interla gos Wheels. Prices exclude ta xes, title, transporta tion, other options and deale r charges. 2009 Volkswagen of America, Inc.
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vw.com
What makes the CC one of the most exciting new members of the Volkswagen
family? Maybe its the stealthy aerodynamic design. Or the power of an available
280hp 3.6L engine with 265 lbs-ft of torque, and a very respectable 27mpg on the
highway.* Maybe its the Autobahn-tuned suspension. Or the complimentary
Carefree Maintenanceprogram,** and a starting price of just $27,100. Of course,
lets be honest, it could just be the way it looks. A feat of German engineering thats
also a work of art.
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05.2009 BACKPACKER 5
PHOTOSBY(FROM
TOP)DAVIDH.COLLIER;SCOTTMANSFIELD;PAULREZENDES;MICHAELH.FRANCIS;STEVENG.SMITH;WW
W.SETHHUGHES.COM;COURTESY.ILLUSTRATIONBYHEADCASE
DESIGN
14Secret Grand CanyonThis natural wonder keeps some hikers up at night, obsessing about
hidden canyon gems. And no place inspires midnight mapping like
Royal Arch, one of the most difficultand rewardinghikes in the
Big Ditch. Start planning: We have turn-by-turn directions, plus
more hikes, key skills, and a 3D map. By Annette McGivney
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05.2009 BACKPACKER 1514 BACKPACKER 05.2009
Depth Perception
THEGUSTTHATSLAMSusis sov iolent ,fora secondI cant te llif we reatthefrontendofaflashfloodorinthepathofa waywardje t .
Idheardit comingfrommilesaway,a furiousroar thatpee ledoffthe
SouthRim,rippingthroughpionjunipersand plungingdownthe1 ,000-foot-deepchasmofRoyalArchCreek.Whenit finallyblastsus,bendingourtentpoles
andflatteningthe nylonagainst ourfaces, Iexperiencea brieflysuffocatingreminderof the
GrandCanyonsraw power.Yetstrangely,in themomentarydisorientationof impact,I feelcalmhappy,eventobein thisplace. Eventhepresence ofmy 11-year-oldson,Austin,
doesnt makeme re think my deci-
siontoforgeon,despiteominousrain
cloudsandthecrushinggusts.Afte r15yearsof scheming,nothingis goingto
stopmefrom gettingtoRoyal Arch.
Ivehikedeverytrail andestablishedrouteoffthecanyonsSouthRim,but Ive
nevermadeit totheArch.Considered
theHopeDiamondof canyontreasures,thelargestnaturalbridge inthepark lies
amida flot illaof but tesand spires in
theAztecAmphitheaterinthe remotecentralpartofthecanyon.Justge t ting
tothe trailheadinvolvesa brain-rattling
driveona 35-mile-longjeeproad.Thenits14 milesof expert-levelbackpack-
ingacrossanobstaclecourseof scree
slopesandgreasy pour-offs.Those challenges, p lusthe usual
workadaystuffraising Austin, caring
fordy ingparents,jugglingtwojobs
hadconspiredto keepmeaway.Butin October,when Aust in hikedthe
difficultNewHanceTrail,Idecidedhe
wasr eadyto accompanymeto RoyalArch. In November,theplan wasset.
Wewouldfollow aroutefirst chartedby
HarveyButchart.Fromthe mid-1940stothe1980s,Butchartpioneeredhundreds
ofoff-trailroutes. HisdiscoveryofRoyal
Arch, in 1959,made him an instantguruamongGrandCanyongroupies,
wholater snappedup hisguidebooks,GrandCanyonTreks,I, II, and III.
Ofcourse,Butchartsfanaticism came
ata cost :Inhisquest toexploreevery
inchof thecanyon, heall butaban-donedhis family .Knowingthis, my
solutionforyearshasbeentobringthe
familyalong.Aust inmadehisfirst t rek
intothecanyonbeforehisfifthbirth-day ,andhasspent75nightsbe lowthe
rim.ButI st illhavesometrepidat ion.
Onthishike ,we re tacklingtechnical,canyoneering-styledifficulties. IfAustin
breaksaleg orbecomeshypothermic,it
couldtakeuptothreedaystogethe lp.He scomfortablewith GrandCanyon
terrain,butasthewindkicksupagain,
sendingrocksclattering,Iwonder: HaveIbecomeso focusedonmy owncheck-
list that Idputmysonatrisk?
DOYOU THINK ITSSAFE?ASKS
Austin, pausing in the middle of a
screeslopeon theEsplanade.It sthefirstdayofour trip .Weddrivenfour
The best view in the Grand Canyon cant be seen fromthe rim. Brave the trek to Royal Arch, hidden deep inthe gorge, and your world will never look the same.By Annette McGivney
LUS HLIFE : E LVE S CHAS M,O FFTHE G RAND
CANY O NS S O UTHRIM,WAS NAMEDFO RTHE
MANYTRAVERTINE FORMATIONSTHAT LOOK
ASTHOUGHTH EYWERE MINEDBYFAI RIES.GET HEREVIATHELOOP HIKE ON PAGE17.
UTM 12S0369608E4006826N
40Trail-Fit for LifeWhats better than hiking today? Hiking forever, of course. With
input from doctors, scientists, trainers, and dieticians, wevedevised an exclusive health-and-fitness plan for every stage of
your life. Plus: Tackle the trail of your dreams in four weeks with
our age-specific workout. By Casey Lyons
60DaypacksComing soon: the longest days of the year.
Get outfitted for high-mileage epics,
fast-and-light summit treks, and everything
in between with the years best new load
haulers. By Kelly Bastone
YOUARE
HERE DESTINATIONS
22NEW TRIPS NEAR YOU
From Los Angeles to Boston, our trail
scouts have downloadable, textable
maps for more than 40 new hikes.
24TOP 3 GLOW-IN-THE-DARK HIKES
See glowing plankton, mushrooms, and
bugs on these brilliant adventures.
27 NATURAL WONDERS
Discover the worlds oldest tree, Americas
biggest cavern, and Floridas largest herd
of wild horses on these three treks.29RIP & GO WEEKEND ADVENTURES
Pack your pack. Rip this out. Drive to the
trailhead. Trip planning has never been
easier. This month:Overnight hikes in
California, Colorado, and Georgia
36MY BACKYARD CAPITOL REEF
Rocky Mountain editor Steve Howe
spends 200 days a year in this national
park. He shares his favorite slot canyons,
campsites, and secret trails.
38 THE PEAK KATAHDIN
This iconic summit shouldnt be rushed.
Savor the experience on this 33-mile trek.
SKILLS
50 THE MANUAL ALPINE STARTS
Boost your summit chances and beat
lightning storms with a smooth early-
morning start. PLUS: Overcome deadly
mental traps in the outdoors and learn to
safely cross a raging river.
54 THE PREDICAMENT BEAR ATTACK
Is it a griz? Run away or fight back? Play our
survival game to learn if you know how to
preventand escapea bear encounter.
57 MEDICINE MAN BEE STINGS
Dont let allergies keep you inside. PLUS:Four myths about snakebites, dispelled.
58 DIRTBAG/GOURMET JERKY
Make quick and easy burger strips and
spicy dried elk with our DIY recipes.
59GEAR SCHOOL ULTRALIGHT PACKS
Lighten up with expert advice on choosing,
using, and fixing a featherweight pack.
GEAR
62FIELD NOTES NEW REVIEWS
A down jacket, trail runners, and more
63 REVIEW FEATHERWEIGHT SHELLS
May 2009
Cover photo by James Kay: An experts-only slot in Robbers Roost Canyon, Utah. See page 75 for details.
FIELD TEST
NATIONAL PARKS PROJECT: Part 1
40 BACKPACKER 0 5.2009 05.2009 BACKPACKER 41
The secret to long-term health and fitness? Reapbackpackings many benefitsa strong heart, lean
muscle, superior endurancethrough every stage ofyour life. Heres how. By Casey Lyons
Hike Forever!
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To fully appreciate the new standard issue Swiss Army Knife,you need to know about its great-grandfather.
It could repair a leather harness so a horse could pull
a wagon. Disassemble a rifle for cleaning. Pry the lid off a
tin of food. It was the perfect tool for the modern soldier.
So said the Swiss Army in 1891. And so says the Swiss Army today.
For 2009, the perfect tool features 11 new or updated
implements including a one-hand, serrated locking blade,
a wood saw and three screwdrivers. Wrapped in an
ergonomic, dual density handle that assures a secure grip,
even in extremely cold or wet conditions.
Presenting the first new Soldier Knife in 48 years.
Standard issue to every Swiss Army recruit. Yours is dated
and ready for inspection at swissarmy.com.
2009
Soldier Knife
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67Americas Best DayhikesTake an easy stroll to a big-time view (Fourteener before lunch, anyone?).
Embark on a dawn-to-after-dusk epic (16-mile slot canyon hike-and-swim,
perhaps?). Trek to redwoods, hot springs, beaches, waterfalls ... and be home
for dinner. Here are 100 ways to spend a perfect day on the trail.
64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96
80The Unlikeliest MountaineerWhen you grow up on a dollar a day in poverty-wracked, HIV-devastated Swaziland,
you dont dream of climbing the Seven Summits. Fortunately, no one informed Sibu
Vilane of that fact. Now the former goatherd has only one peak left to goDenali.
STEVE HOWE joins him on the historic attempt.
PEOPLE
64
Ridge Runner
Whats harder
than hiking the
entire Continental
Divide Trail? Hik-
ing the true crest
of the divide itself.
Despite crippling
injuries, Glenn
Dunmire attempts
to achieve an
alpine first.
Volume 37 Issue 267 Number 4
EYE INTHE SKY
96
ROCK ART
Its hard to miss
this 290-foot-
high natural
bridgebut its
never been seen
like this. Guess its
location and win an
altimeter watch.
///// /WEB EXTRA
THE DOWNLOADNew this issue:Look for Web boxes (likethis) that guide you to exclusive onlinecontent: digital maps and tracklogs,videos, mobile trail guides, photo galler-ies, and moreall at backpacker.com.
05.2009 BACKPACKER 7
PHOTOSBY(CLOCKWISEFROM
TOPLEFT)SCOTTDWSMITH
;STEVEHOWE;SATELLITEIMAGEBYGEOEYE;CHUCKHANEY;TYL
ERSTABLEFORD;DAVIDH.COLLIER;KENARCHER
SIBU VILANE IS ALL SMILES200 FEET BELOW THE
SUMMIT OF DENALI.May 2009
BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK
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PUBLISHER Kent Ebersole(303) 625-1605 [email protected]
MARKETING DIRECTOR Charina Lumley(303) 625-1607 [email protected]
EASTERN SALES MANAGER Todd Peters
(917) 744-1645 [email protected]
NORTHEAST SALES MANAGER Candice Boyd(978) 346-9385 [email protected]
DETROIT SALES MANAGER Chris Marcangelo(248) 885-2232 [email protected]
MIDWEST SALES MANAGER Michael Byrne(773) 271-6171 [email protected]
SOUTHWEST SALES MANAGER Michael Austry(214) 252-9971 [email protected]
NORTHWESTERN REPRESENTATION Nicholas Freedman(707) 775-3376 [email protected]
NORTHWESTERN ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE David McRobie(707) 775-2496 [email protected]
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA SALES MANAGER Richard Taw, III(310) 341-2341 [email protected]
MARKETPLACE/CLASSIFIED REPRESENTATIVE Zachary Watson(303) 625-1608 [email protected]
MAGAZINE PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Barb Van SicklePRODUCTION SPECIALIST Joy KelleyPUBLISHING ASSISTANT Janine Zwetolitz
MARKETING MANAGER Alison KennedyMARKETING MANAGER Joanne ReynoldsONLINE MARKETING MANAGER Sarah WetzlerRESEARCH DIRECTOR Kristy Kaus
CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Barbara BesserGROUP FULFILLMENT MANAGER Jessica BucherGROUP NEW BUSINESS MANAGER Tom PorcellaWEB & PARTNERSHIP DIRECTOR Debbie Kane
CHAIRMAN & CEO Efrem Zimbalist IIIGROUP PUBLISHER & COO Andrew W. ClurmanSENIOR VICE PRESIDENT & CFO Brian Sellstrom
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Patricia B. Fox
ACTIVE INTEREST MEDIA300 CONTINENTAL BLVD. SUITE 650EL SEGUNDO, CA 90245(310) 356-4100(310) 356-4110 FAX
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jonathan Dorn
DESIGN DIRECTOR Matthew Bates
EDITORIAL
DEPUTY EDITORDennis Lewon
SENIOR EDITOR Tracy Ross
MAP EDITOR Kris WagnerGEAR EDITOR Kristin Hostetter
ASSOCIATE EDITORShannon Davis
ASSISTANT EDITOR Elisabeth Kwak-Hefferan
ASSISTANT MAP EDITORS Mark Harrison,
Kim Phillips
NORTHWEST EDITOR Michael Lanza
ROCKY MOUNTAIN EDITOR Steve Howe
SOUTHWEST EDITOR Annette McGivney
INTERNSJoanna Nasar, Adrienne Saia Isaac,
Brian Beer, Sarah Curry
GREEN EDITOR Berne Broudy
CONTRIBUTING EDITORSJim Gorman ,
Buck Tilton,
John Harlin,
Kelly Bastone
WRITER AT LARGE Steve Friedman
MAP CORRESPONDENTS
Amy Balfour, Alan Bauer, Kari Bodnarchuk, Fletcher Caldwell,Jeff Chow, Jenn Fields, John Harlan, Jeff and Michele Hendrick,
Tim Johnson, Jason Kauffman, Joe Kurmaskie, Trung Q. Le,
Dave Miller, Marianne Perreault, Peter Qureini, Scott Sanders,
Chelise Simmons, Kelly Stewart, Bill Velasquez, Ted Villaire, Bill Yearout
OFFICE MANAGER JoAnn Hopkins
I.T. GURU Nick Anthony
DESIGN
PHOTO EDITOR Julia Beck Vandenoever
SENIOR ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Genny Fullerton
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Jacqueline McCaffrey
PHOTO INTERNMorgan Heim
BACKPACKER.COM
EDITOR Anthony Cerretani
PRODUCER Katie Herrell
ASSISTANT EDITOR Ted Alvarez
WEB INTERNS Matthew Draper, Morgan KeysFIELD CORRESPONDENTSBerne Broudy, Steve Howe
SUBSCRIPTIONS & READER PREFERENCES
BACKPACKER SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT
P.O. BOX 50022, BOULDER, CO 80322-0022
BACKPACKER.COM/SUBSERVICE
(800) 666-3434 (386-597-4318 OUTSIDE THE U.S.)
PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR NAME AND AD DRESS AS THEY APPEAR ON
THE MAGAZINE MAILING LABEL WITH ALL CORRESPONDENCE.
ALLOW 8 WEEKS FO R CHANGE OF ADDRESS. TO REMOVE YOUR
NAME FROM PROMOTION LISTS, WRITE TO THE ADDRESS ABOVE.
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BOULDER, CO 80301
SELLING BACKPACKERTO SELL BACKPACKER IN YOUR RETAIL STORE, CALL
INTEGRATED MARKETING CONCEPTS AT (800) 201-3591.
MagazinePublishersof America
STAFF PICKS
Printed on recycledand chlorine-free paper
FAVORITE NATIONAL PARK CAMPSITE OR TRAIL
For more than 179 years Woolrich,
he Original Outdoor Clothing Company,
has offered products inspired by the
outdoors and designed for your life.
o see our complete line of apparel for men
and women, blankets, furniture andaccessories, visit us online at
www.woolrich.com.
HeritageMeetsTechnology!This Buffalo Plaid Jacket takes the heritage
that Woolrich is known for and brings itinto the 21st century.
Features:
Waterproof
Breathable
Waterproof Zippers
Quick Dry
Seam Sealed
Pit Zips
Performance Cuffs with Thumbholes
Internal Security Pockets
Reflective Brand I.D.
Two-Way Zipper
Adjustable Shock Cord Hem
Removable Hood
rm and function come together in the Woolrichrformance Line. Weve added key functionality toour trademark natural comfort and intelligent
design to make your time outdoorseven more enjoyable.
GPSENABLED
8 BACKPACKER 05.2009
Sanctuary River, Denali
Granite slabs near IsbergPass, Yosemite
Sandbeach Lake campsite,Rocky Mountain
Zion NarrowsHoh Lakecampsite,Olympic
Sahale Glacier Camp,North Cascades
Rockwall Highline Trail,Kootenay, BC
Escalante Route,Grand Canyon
Chesler Park Trail,Canyonlands
Third Beachto Hoh River,
OlympicHorseshoe
Canyon Trail,Canyonlands
Bluebird Lake Trail,Rocky Mountain
Numa RidgeTrail, Glacier
EnchantedValley, Olympic
South Fork of CascadeCanyon, Grand Teton
Appalachian Trail fromThornton Gap to Grave
Springs Gap, Shenando
Jenny LakeCampground,Grand Teton
Hat Shop Trail,Bryce Canyon
Coast Camp, PtReyes National
Seashore
Lily LakeTrail, RockMountain
READERS CHOICE
Whats your favorite national park?
Vote this month at backpacker.com.
Glacier31.6%
Yosemite30.6%
Yellowstone23.7%
GrandCanyon14.1%
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There is only
ONE
ORIGINAL.
Buffalo Check wool shirt circa 1850
The Original Outdoor Clothing Company
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PHOTOSBY(CLOCKWISEFROM
BOTTOM)FLORIDADEPARTM
ENTOFCORRECTIONS;WWW.SETHHUGHES.COM;JONATHAND
ORN(3)
GUEST BOOK100 words with ...
Annette McGivney
When I began visiting Glen
Canyons reemerging slots anddrainages for BACKPACKER
five years ago, I didnt
expect my reporting to
grow into a book. But
as Ive returnedand
the Southwests drought has
exposed more terrainIve witnessed
the restoration of a vibrant ecosystem and
hiking playground, one that hasnt been
seen for 50 years. In Resurrection: Glen
Canyon and a New Vision for the American
West($30), photographer James Kay and I
take readers to some of the most beautiful
and remote spots in all of North America,
discuss the history and science of drought,
and suggest a new way of thinking aboutColorado River conservation.
Southwest editor Annette McGivney wrote
about the Grand Canyon for this is sue (p. 14).
Working HardOR HARDLY WORKING? ON ASSIGNMENT WITH THREE MOUNTAIN LEGENDS
WHEN I MENTION MY EMPLOYER to people I meet on the trail, the reaction is
almost always the same. You lucky bastard! they exclaim. You get paid to hike?
I nod and smile and stare bashfully at the ground, then stammer out some caveat
about the long office hours and occupational hazards (namely, blisters). Then
come the questions: Whats your favorite trail? Do you go on a lot of cool trips?
What do you do with all that free gear? Theres a sense, it seems, that the life of aBACKPACKER editor is a steady stream of life-list hikes and whizbang new toys.
The truth, of course, is less glamorous. We get out a lot, but we also endure our
share of type-all-day-and-stare-at-spreadsheets drudgery. Its a demanding jobI
swear!with plenty of ups and downs. Its just that the ups can be pretty freakin
spectacular. Case in point: how I spent the last weekend of February.
It started with an invitation from Eddie Bauer to preview one of the most ambi-
tious outdoor-product launches in at least a decade. The company had decided to
return to its roots with a full line of mountaineering gear and apparel designed by
six of Americas top climbers. The preview location: Idaho. The activity: backcoun-
try skiing. The guides: Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs, and Dave Hahnhalf of the
design team and a trio with 16 Everest and 600-plus Rainier summits.
Over several bluebird days, gear editor Kristin Hostetter and I got to rub elbowswith a few of our personal icons. We talked travel with Peter, carved turns with
Ed, and coaxed Dave to tell 8,000-meter rescue stories. We
refined snow skills and debated gear design. And we wit-
nessed a passion for adventure that looked a lot like yours
and mine. These guys simply love to get outdoors, like you
and I do, and thatIm remindedis what makes all of us
lucky bastards, whatever job we have.
Which brings me back to the free gear. BACKPACKERs pol-
icy is to return everything after testing, with two exceptions:
baselayers and boots. Anyone out there need a size 13?
ANOTHER DAY ATTHE OFFICE: GEAREDITOR KRISTINHOSTETTER SKISIDAHO POWDER(LEFT) ON AGEAR-TESTINGTRIP WITH ED
VIESTURS (TOP),PETER WHITTAKER(BELOW, SITTING),AND DAVE HAHN(STANDING).
NOTICE OF
IMPOUNDMENT:Your magazines
November 2008
issue has been
rejected by our
Literary Review Committee. The
articles on wilderness survival and
hiking the Appalachian Trail are per-
ceived as a possible threat to secu-
rity and good order due to informa-
tion therein that could be beneficial
to an escaped inmate.Alan Pippin, warden,
Okaloosa Correctional Institution, Florida
Ive been reading BACKPACKER
for a long time, then the prison
suddenly decided that camping
information was a security risk.
Its gotten so ridiculous that if
my mom sends me a letter that
mentions a trail, they reject it.
As for survival skills, try eating the food here
there are grubworms that taste better.
BACKPACKER subscriber Joe Johnson
is servi ng six years in the minimum-se curity
workcamp at Okaloosa for robbery.
THIS MONTHSODDLYINTRIGUINGREADER MAIL
essentialoutdoorskills121
NAVIGATEINANYTERRAINSTARTAFIREIN 5MINUTESIMPROVEPACKCOMFORTFINDWATERANYWHERESHOOTPERFECTPHOTOSSTAYWARM,SLEEPBETTER
LIGHTENUP!25TIPSFROMTOPTHRU-HIKERSTESTED:TENTS &WINTER GEAR
BEST OF THE
APPALACHIANTRAIL THETOP50HIKESAND CAMPSITES
Completemap&thru-hikersguide
2,554 LOCAL TRAILSWe have hikes within 2 hours of your house!
+
21CITIES
105HIKES
FREE
MAPS!
How to DoEverything05HI ES
EE
APS!
Editors NoteBY JONATHAN DORN
////// VIDEOS
MOUNTAIN MENEd, Peter, and Daveleave for Everest thismonth. Watch ourexclusive interviewwith them, plus Louand Jim Whittakerand get a sneak peekat Eddie Bauers newlineat backpacker.com/everest09.
FDC #I04608
05.2009 BACKPACKER 11
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UTM17S 0336928E 3908188N (WGS 84)
MOUNTAIN. LEARN HOW ON PAGE 28.A HIKE TO THE SUMMIT OF COLD
FIRE IN THE SKY: EARN A DAZZLING VIEWOF NORTH CAROLINAS LOOKING GLASSROCK (PICTURED) AND MID- NOVEMBERSEPIC LEONID METEOR SHOWER ON
PHOTOCREDITGOESHERE
12 BACKPACKER 05.2009 PHOTO BY DAVID H. COLLIER
Inside this month...22 New Trips Near You29 Rip&Go: Point Reyes, CA50 The Manual: Alpine Starts54 Survive a Bear Attack59 Gear School: Ultralight Packs
ANGELS VIEW: FOLLOW THE COORDINATESBELOW TO THIS EYE-POPPING VISTA ACROSSTHE GRAND CANYON. GET THERE VIA THEANGELS WINDOW TRAIL NEAR CAPE ROYALON THE NORTH RIM (MORE BETA ON PAGE 21).
UTM12S 0414698E 3997586N
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PHOTOCREDITGOESHERE
BASECAMP
05.2009 BACKPACKER 13
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14 BACKPACKER 05.2009
Depth Perception
THE GUST THAT SLAMS us is so violent, for a second I cant tell if were at
the front end of a flash flood or in the path of a wayward jet.
Id heard it coming from miles away, a furious roar that peeled off the
South Rim, ripping through pion junipers and plunging down the 1,000-
foot-deep chasm of Royal Arch Creek. When it finally blasts us, bending our tent poles
and flattening the nylon against our faces, I experience a briefly suffocating reminder of the
Grand Canyons raw power. Yet strangely, in the momentary disorientation of impact, I feel
calmhappy, evento be in this place. Even the presence of my 11-year-old son, Austin,
The best view in the Grand Canyon cant be seen fromthe rim. Brave the trek to Royal Arch, hidden deep in
the gorge, and your world will never look the same.By Annette McGivney
LUSH LIFE: ELVES CHASM, OFF THE GRANDCANYONS SOUTH RIM, WAS NAMED FOR THEMANY TRAVERTINE FORMATIONS THAT LOOKAS THOUGH THEY WERE MINED BY FAIRIES.GET HERE VIA THE LOOP HIKE ON PAGE 17.
UTM12S 0369608E 4006826N
D
estination
B
ASECAMP
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PHOTOBYDANLEFFEL/AGEFOTOSTOCK
05.2009 BACKPACKER 15
doesnt make me rethink my deci-
sion to forge on, despite ominous rain
clouds and the crushing gusts. After 15
years of scheming, nothing is going to
stop me from getting to Royal Arch.
Ive hiked every trail and established
route off the canyons South Rim, but Ive
never made it to the Arch. Considered
the Hope Diamond of canyon treasures,
the largest natural bridge in the park lies
amid a flotilla of buttes and spires in
the Aztec Amphitheater in the remote
central part of the canyon. Just getting
to the trailhead involves a brain-rattling
drive on a 35-mile-long jeep road. Then
its 14 miles of expert-level backpack-
ing across an obstacle course of scree
slopes and greasy pour-offs.
Those challenges, plus the usual
workaday stuffraising Austin, caring
for dying parents, juggling two jobs
had conspired to keep me away. But
in October, when Austin hiked the
difficult New Hance Trail, I decided he
was ready to accompany me to Royal
Arch. In November, the plan was set.
We would follow a route first charted by
Harvey Butchart. From the mid-1940s to
the 1980s, Butchart pioneered hundreds
of off-trail routes. His discovery of Royal
Arch, in 1959, made him an instant
guru among Grand Canyon groupies,
who later snapped up his guidebooks,
Grand Canyon Treks, I, II, and III.
Of course, Butcharts fanaticism came
at a cost: In his quest to explore every
inch of the canyon, he all but aban-
doned his family. Knowing this, my
solution for years has been to bring the
family along. Austin made his first trek
into the canyon before his fifth birth-
day, and has spent 75 nights below the
rim. But I still have some trepidation.
On this hike, were tackling technical,
canyoneering-style difficulties. If Austin
breaks a leg or becomes hypothermic, it
could take up to three days to get help.
Hes comfortable with Grand Canyon
terrain, but as the wind kicks up again,
sending rocks clattering, I wonder: Have
I become so focused on my own check-
list that Id put my son at risk?
DO YOU THINK ITS SAFE? ASKS
Austin, pausing in the middle of a
scree slope on the Esplanade. Its the
first day of our trip. Wed driven four
National Parks Project: Part 1A yearlong celebration of Americasmost extraordinary hiking experiences
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16 BACKPACKER 05.2009
PHOTOSBYELIASBUTLER
DESTINATIONS
NATIONAL PARKS
+
hours through the Havasupai Indian
Reservation and Kaibab National Forest
to one of the least-visited trailheads on
the South Rim, then descended two
knee-crushing miles to this boulder-
strewn plateau. Navigating Chemehuevi,Toltec, and Montezuma Points, wed
seen soaring ravens and sign of bighorn
sheep. Now were picking our way
through a rockslide that falls at a dizzy-
ing pitch for 500 feet.
Out in front, and testing for stability,
is my friend and Flagstaff photographer
Elias Butler. Along with Flagstaff physi-
cian Tom Myers, Butler co-authored a
recent Butchart biography called Grand
Obsession. During their research, they
retraced a dozen of Butcharts most
technical routes, but neither touched the
12,000 miles and 1,025 days Butchart
hiked during his 42-year exploration.
As Butler points out loose rocks to
Austin, I think about the trek wereundertaking. Like many Grand Canyon
hikes, the Royal Arch loop is a quintes-
sential Grand Canyon route, which
should not be confused with the cor-
ridor trails frequented by 90 percent of
Canyon hikers. Cairns, as opposed to
signs, sporadically mark the way, and
water is reliably found in only three
places along the entire 34-mile loop. A
trail like this could thwart an inexperi-
enced hiker, but not my son. He did his
first rim-to-river hike at four, and sevenyears later confidently billygoats across
scree slopes where one slip could
result in a serious injury.
Pleased by his growing surety, I focus
on the ivory tower of Mt. Huethawali
lit up in the afternoon light. We walk
another two miles, then camp on the
tip of the Esplanade, pitching our tents
and eating dinner under shooting stars.
Digging into my pasta, I finally answer
Austins question: I think its more dan-
gerous to drive the freeway in Phoenixthan hike anywhere down here.
LEFT: NEVER SKIP A CHANCE TO TANK UPON WATER WHEN YOU ENCOUNTER POOLSLIKE THIS ONE ALONG ROYAL ARCH CREEK.BELOW: THE AUTHOR AND HER SON SKIRT THEESPLANADE, FIVE MILES FROM THE SOUTHBASS TRAILHEAD, ON DAY FOUR.
ON DAY TWO, WE DROP INTO THE
eastern arm of Royal Arch Creek, trad-
ing big canyon panoramas for an ever-
deepening gorge. Butler and I are
relieved by Austins progress. Even with
his experience, off-trail canyon hik-ing for an 11-year-old is a far cry from
Butcharts fast and light method.
Butchart carried only a knapsack,
sleeping bag, food, and canteen. With
no tent or family, he averaged 12 hard,
cross-country miles per day. Weve hiked
a scant eight since our startmost of it in
the relentlessly rocky drainages atop the
Esplanade. Dropping onto the scoured
slickrock floor of Royal Arch Creek, I
momentarily envy Butcharts approach.
Austin is cranky, and Im tired fromcarrying gear and food for twoplus
the emotional weight of worrying about
my childs safety and happiness.
Fortunately, relief is in sight. By
late afternoon, we reach a cluster of
potholes, the first reliable water source
on the trek and an oasis by Grand
Canyon standards. Despite little rain
in recent months, the pools are four
feet deep and flickering with insects.
We climb onto a slickrock bench and
pitch our tents. Then Butler spies anancient pottery shard half-hidden in
the red dust.
As quickly as it gathered, Austins
cloud lifts. Whatever irritation he has
carried visibly vaporizeserased by
the discovery of this prehistoric relic.
Watching him trace figures in the sand,
Im reminded of a major difference
between Harvey Butchart and me:
Butchart never included his family in
his discoveries, while I am bringing
Austin to ones he will never forget.
WHAT WOULD HARVEY DO? BUTLER
half jokes as we survey the ominous
skies around us. Its the third day of
our trip, and were now just six miles
from Royal Arch. Despite the gather-
ing clouds, we eat breakfast on a ledge
overlooking the potholes, then decide
that rather than lumber with heavy
packs to the Arch, well leave our camp
UTM12S 0369180E4005885N
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05.2009 BACKPACKER 17
Hike itThe authors route went straight to
Royal Arch and back, but this loop packs
in more canyons and cliffs, plus a 20-foot
technical rock climb on day three. Starting
at the South Bass trailhead (1), descend1.2 miles north to a three-way junction tobegin a counterclockwise loop. Go straight
on South Bass Trail (2)and drop into BassCanyon, descending more than 2,000 feet in
2.5 miles between two towering sandstone
buttes that pinch the gorge tight. Bear left
onto the Tonto Trail (3)and go 1.5 miles to aplateau campsite (4) under the 4,800-footred walls of Tyndall Dome. Start day two by
8 a.m. to avoid the midday scorchits 11.5
miles to a primo campsite on the Colorado
River, the trips first dependable water
source. Follow the Tonto Trail west to the
bottom of Copper Canyon (5), where youmight find water in potholes after a rain. The
route veers around 4,700-foot Fiske Butteand traces sheer sandstone cliffs above
Walthenberg Rapids, which roar through
Granite Gorge. After 10 miles, the Tonto Trail
ends in Garnet Canyon (6). Head west on
Royal Arch: The Perfect LoopPack two days worth of water and dive into the heart of Harvey Butchart country on this 4- or 5-day, 34-mile trip.
an unmaintained trail dotted with cairns.
End at the sandy banks of Toltec Beach (7),your second camp at mile 17.5. On day three,
leave your pack at camp for a 2.1-mile out-
and-back to Elves Chasm (8), a secluded,waterfall-rich grotto at the mouth of RoyalArch Creek. Backtrack to camp and lay over
or finish the days remaining six miles with
a stiff ascent to a roughly 20-foot rock wall
and the technical crux of the trip (9).Packa harness, 40-foot dynamic rope, locking
carabiner, and 20 feet of webbing for belays
and for hauling up packs. From the top of
the cliff, the route climbs gradually for 1.7
miles before dropping into Royal Arch Creek
(10). Then, descend the rocky creekbed toRoyal Arch (11), the Grand Canyons largestnatural rock bridge (theres a reliable spring
upstream of it). Hike back upstream 3.2
miles to a set of smooth potholes carved
into the creekbed, and your last campsite(12). The final day ascends past Montezuma,Toltec, and Chemehuevi Points. After 7.3
miles, reconnect with the South Bass Trail
and climb 1,200 feet to your starting point.
THE WAYTo reach the South Bass trailhead,
go west from Tusayan six miles on FR 328
(off of AZ 64). Veer northwest onto FR 328A
for another 17.6 miles to Pasture Wash Road.
Turn right and continue to the parking lot.
WHEN TO GOSpring, when water is plentiful, or
fall. Summer brings heat and flash floods.
GO GUIDEDJoin the Grand Canyon Field
Institute on an eight-day trip to Royal Arch in
April 2010. Food and shuttle included. $665;
grandcanyonassociation.org/gcfi
GUIDEBOOKS AND MAP Official Guide to Hiking
Grand Canyon,by Scott Thybony ($12, grand-
canyonassociation.org); Grand CanyonTreks,
by Harvey Butchart ($17, spotteddogpress
.com); National Geographic Grand Canyon
National Parkmap ($12, natgeomaps.com)
PERMITS Required backcountry permits are
$10, plus $5 per person per day. Apply up to
four months before desired departure date.
Download application at nps.gov/grca/plany-ourvisit/backcountry-permit.htm; then fax to
(928) 638-2125. Entrance: $25 per vehicle.
VACATION PLANNER Get hotel, restaurant, and
great travel beta at mygrandcanyonpark.com.
Elevation Profile
Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4
2,000 ft
7,000 ft
FEAST YOUREYESCheck out more ofthe jaw-droppingscenery along the hiketo Royal Arch withour exclusive flyovervideo and slideshowfrom veteran canyonphotographer andexplorer Elias Butler.backpacker.com/royalarch.
MAP DATUM: WGS 84
1
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4
1 2
3 4 56 87
910
11
12
MAPS
GET MAPSThe hike described
above travels 34miles of mostlyunmaintainedpaths that requireexcellent mapskills. Dial yoursin with detailedmaps and GPSdata collected byour scout team. Todownload tracklogsand waypoints,print maps, andview the Royal Archroute in 3D, go tobackpacker.com/hikes/351342.
Camping underTyndall Dome
Tonto Trail
Data U.S.Navy 2009 Tele Atlas
Image 2009 TerraMetricsImage 2009 DigitalGlobe
2
3
4
5
6
7
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12
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DESTINATIONS
+
and dayhikebasically, make a run for
it and retreat if the weather turns.
Although our route mainly follows
the creekbed, it is not exactly an easy,
rock-hopping ramble. The firstand
biggestobstacle comes just belowcamp, when we encounter a sheer
100-foot pour-off. We take a bypass,
climbing up a steep talus slope and
crawling through a dwarf-size open-
ing between a juniper trunk and the
cliff face, then slide down a jumble of
boulders to the drainage floor.
The 2,000-foot-deep gorge gets
warmer and lusher as we descend.
First the prickly pear appears, then
the ferns, monkey flowers, and glassy
pools. When Butchart hiked this drain-age 50 years ago, he suspected that
he was coming upon something spe-
cial. He had no idea he was about to
discover Shangri-La.
My heart rate increases as we round
one bend after another, the canyon
closing in and seeming softer, now
laced in the coral-like calcium carbon-
ate deposits called travertine. Then,
out of nowhere: the Arch, suspended
100 feet above the canyon floor. As if
to reward us for our effort, the clouds
part, illuminating it in vibrant sunlight.Standing under the bridge, Austin
beams with pride and I do too, almost
to the point of tears. Despite the every-
day obstacles that threatened my jour-
ney, I made it. And sharing this reward
with my son is sweeter than anything.
But I quickly sober up. This is no
triumph if we dont make it back to the
car. And there is no hazard more threat-
ening to obsessed Grand Canyon hikers
than their own inflated egos.
As we turn to leave, Butler pointsto an area on top of Royal Arch where
a helicopter landed in 1963 to rescue
Butchart after he slipped over a pour-off
and broke his heel. Others have died
near here, including George Mancuso,
Butcharts heir apparent in the 1980s
and 1990s. In 2001, he was killed in a
SECRET PORTAL: ROYAL ARCHMARKS THE ENTRYWAY TO THE
COLORADO RIVERS INNER GORGE.
UTM12S 0369289E 40 06147N
NATIONAL PARKS
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Point, descend the steep but maintained
Grandview Trail for three miles to Horseshoe
Mesa, dropping off the west side to
Cottonwood Creek. In 1.5 miles, youll reacha reliable spring and just beyond that, estab-
lished campsites. Day two: Take the Tonto
Trail east for five miles around the front of
Horseshoe Mesa. Head to Hance Creek from
the junction with
Miners Spring Trail
for your second
night, then return to
the Tonto Trail and
climb up the east
side of Horseshoe
Mesa on Miners
Spring Trail. Tank
up at the spring and spend your last night
dry camping atop Horseshoe Mesa before
rounding back to Grandview Point.
WEEKLONGHermits Rest to Phantom RanchYoull sample nearly every Grand Canyon
environment on this 40-mile routeand
cold beer at Phantom Ranch to boot.
From the Hermits Rest trailhead, descend
through Hermit Canyon for 7.5 miles to
Hermit Creek Campground. Kick back on
TOP TRAILS
DAYHIKEWidforss TrailThis 10-mile out-and-back on the
North Rim loses
and gains less than
500 feet from start
to finish. From
Widforss Point at
trails end, gaze
down on Wotans
Throne, and Brahma and Zoroaster Temples.
Beyond them on the South Rim, you can
see the San Francisco Peaks, more than 100
miles away. En route to the point youll hike
through a conifer and aspen forestbeautiful
in fall when the leaves are changing. And the
8,000-foot elevation is also great in summer,when daytime temps average 70F while the
canyon bakes like an oven.
WEEKENDGrandview/Tonto TrailOn this 13-mile, three-night loop hike, youll
circumnavigate the flat-topped monolith of
Horseshoe Mesa, which offers panoramic
views and creekside camping without
crowds. From the South Rims Grandview
INSIDERS GUIDE THE GRAND CANYON
PHOTOSBY(FROM
LEFT)WWW.TODDSHIKINGGUIDE.COM;ELIASBUTLER;EDCALLAERT;LEONWERDINGER
day two with a 1.5-mile hike to the Colorado
River, camping next to roaring Hermit Rapids.
Backtrack up Hermit Canyon on day three to
the Tonto Plateau
and hike east on
the Tonto Trail to
Monument Creek
campsite. Rambleeast across the
plateau for two
days, camping at
Salt Creek (in 3.4
miles) and then Horn Creek (9 miles from
Monument). Four miles past Horn Creek,
intersect with the Bright Angel Trail, where
you can cut the trip short by two days and 10
miles by hiking 1.5 miles to Indian Gardens.
Spend the night and continue out the next
day, or get that cold beer by hiking five
miles to the Phantom Ranch/Bright Angel
Campground. Back at the Bright Angel trail-
head, catch a park shuttle to Hermits Rest.
HIKE LIKE HARVEYGrand Obsessionco-author Tom Myers has
spent more than 25 years retracing Harvey
Butcharts routes. Here: three of his favorites.
Clear Creek to the Colorado RiverStarting half a
mile north of Phantom Ranch (via the North
Kaibab Trail), follow the Clear Creek Trail
for nine miles until it reaches the bottom of
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DESTINATIONS
+
PLAN ITflash flood while exploring a creek dur-
ing summer monsoon season.
Abruptly, a rainstorm arrives, and we
beeline to camp, scampering up pour-
offs that have become increasingly slip-
pery. With each backslide, Austin and Igouge our shins. The shower turns into
a downpour, and the temperature drops
20 degrees. Austin is scared, fighting
tears and hiking as hard as he can.
Following closely behind him, I grow
angry with myself. These kinds of situa-
tions are precisely why Butchart left his
family at home and why many of my
friendsparents whod rather spend
weekends with their childrenhave
given up ambitious backpacking trips.
Then, as often happens in thecanyon, the darkness lifts again. We
climb onto a ledge, now speckled with
freshly filled potholes, and see our tents;
weve made it back from the Arch in
half the time it took to get there. In the
last gasp of sunset, the clouds part, and
a double rainbow frames our camp.
ON OUR LAST NIGHT, I STAY UP AND
study the sky. To the southwest, the
twinkling orbs of Jupiter and Venus are
almost aligned for the first time in 40
years. A half moon shines blue amid
the many stars, casting the craggy cliffsin an eerie silhouette.
We have a big hike tomorrow, but I
know the hardest terrain is behind us.
Back from our adventure, Butler and
Myers will check off a commemorative
Butchart route that involves a scary free-
climb to the top of the Cheops Plateau.
Ill secure a permit to return to Royal
Arch. And Austin will write a school
essay in which he says Grand Canyon
backpacking is his favorite sport.
Somewhere between the South Rimand our campsite on Royal Arch Creek,
a boulder breaks off the canyon wall
and crashes through the gorge. The
sound reverberates for several seconds,
and I tense for a moment as the echo
grows, then fades.
Standing in the moonlight, I am
struck by the fragility of Austin, me,
this.But thenjust like my anxiety on
the descent to Royal Archthe feeling
passes and Im left with a deeper calm,
like a pilgrim returning home from a
successful journey.
ROYAL ARCH CREEK
UTM12S 0369184E 4005932N
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Clear Creek Canyon. Harvey discovered you
can walk for six miles downstream along the
creek [under dramatic Vishnu Schist walls]
clear to the Colorado River, says Myers.
Vaseys ParadiseHarvey thought this was one
of the most scenic areas of the canyon, says
Myers of the spot where a waterfall gushes
from a limestone cave above the ColoradoRiver. From the rim of South Canyon (off
House Rock Valley Road in Marble Canyon),
follow the creekbed seven miles to a cliff
above the Colorado, where it descends to a
collection of Anasazi and Sinagua ruins.
Wotans ThroneThis climb up an inner-
canyon butte requires an 80-foot rappel and
all-day bushwhack. Wotans was one of
Harveys favorites, says Myers, who scattered
Butcharts ashes atop the Throne. From Cape
Royal on the North Rim, drop down to the
Hermit shale (a distinct, sloping bench), then
contour to the east face of Wotans, where
a break in the Coconino sandstone offers
access to the Thrones upper ramparts.
KEY SKILLSSCRAMBLINGNegotiate any pour-off with these tips from
Grand Canyon guide Sally Underwood.
1. Dont go down or up a pour-off thats five
feet or higher while wearing a pack. Lower or
raise yours using a 15-foot nylon handline.
2. Use your handline to help your partners up
and down slick surfaces if they lack climb-
ing/bouldering experience. Tie off around a
boulder or tree, or brace against a stable rock.
3. Beware of black pools. If you cant see the
bottom, they could be a lot deeper and more
slippery than you expect, says Underwood.Thats a good way to break an ankle.
4. Wear sturdy hiking boots. Water shoes and
sandals dont cut it in places where you need
to jam your toe in a crack to get up or down.
HAZARD-FREE HIKINGAvoid troubleand have more fun with
these tips from ranger Bil Vandergraff.
Hide from the sunDuring warm months (spring
through fall) head out in the early morning,
late afternoon/evening, or when the path
youre traveling is in shadow.
Stay positive but realistic Inexperienced hik-
ers get to the Colorado River, look up atthe rim, and think they cant make it out,
says Vandergraff. If you need to, take an
unscheduled rest day. We wont penalize you,
and its better than a rescue.
Back up your hydration system A rock-solid,
leakproof, 3-liter hydration system, in addi-
tion to two 1-liter Lexan bottles and a 3- to
5-liter Dromedary for dry camping, are a
must in this desert environment.
PHOTOGRAPHYFlagstaff photographer Elias Butler has spent
the last decade traversing perilous terrain to
get the perfect Grand Canyon shot. Now you
can shoot from his favorite spots.
Yuma Point
Reached from the South Rim via a five-milehike on the Hermit and Boucher Trails, this
sandstone lip above Hermit Creek offers one
of the most spectacular panoramas of the
Grand Canyon and Colorado River. Always
stop down [your cameras aperture] to
achieve the traditional landscape that cap-
tures everything near and far in sharp focus,
says Butler. UTM:12S 0389468E 3994056N
Kolb ArchGetting
to this remote spot
requires an all-day,
off-trail hike from
the bottom of the
Nankoweap Trail into
an upper branch of
Nankoweap Creekbelow Point Imperial
on the North Rim.
The reward for the arduous bushwhacking is
a rarely seen look at the arch named for the
Grand Canyons first nationally-renowned
photographers, the Kolb Brothers. The best
time to shoot this unique feature is before
noon, when the sun is hitting the arch, says
Butler. UTM: 12S 0413064E 4015932NPHOTOSBYLEONWERDINGER(LEFT);EL
IASBUTLER
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PHOTOSBY(FROM
TOP)JASONKAUFFMAN;KARI
B O D N A R C H U K
D A V E M I L L E R ( ) T E D V I L L A I R E
22 BACKPACKER 05.2009
DESTINATIONS
LOCAL HIKES
>Adirondack Park:
Mt. Van Hoevenburg
(TRIP ID: 31417)
>Asheville:Green
Knob (ID: 334796)
>Asheville:Yellow
Face (ID: 334809)
>Atlanta:Coosa
Backcountry Loop
(ID: 330167)
>Baltimore:
Cunningham Falls
(ID: 14551)>Bend (see map):
Three Fingered Jack
(ID: 247247)
>Boise:Watchman
Trail Loop (ID: 343031)
>Boston: Ponkapoag
Pond (ID: 23149)
>Boulder:Isabelle
Glacier (ID: 326930)
>Bozeman:The
Sentinel via Windy
Pass Trail (ID: 26199)
>Canyonlands NP:
Upheaval Dome
(ID: 344092)
>Catskills Park:Hunter
Mountain (ID: 5640)>Chattanooga:Walls of
Jericho (ID: 334808)
>Chicago:Shabbona
Lake (ID: 342901)
>Denali State Park:
Little Coal Creek
(ID: 350295)
>Denver:Enchanted
Forest (ID: 337056)
>Glacier NP:Loneman
Mountain (ID: 343039)
>Glacier Peak
Wilderness:Mt. David
(ID: 334920)
>Idaho City:Crooked
River Trail (ID: 60688)
>Joshua Tree NP:
Fortynine Palms
(ID: 338133)
>Knoxville:Middle
Creek to Twin Arches
(ID: 332383)
>Las Vegas:Oak Creek
Loop (ID: 350303)
>Las Vegas:White
Canyon (ID: 354082)
>Mt. Rainier NP:
Gobblers Knob
(ID: 27564)
>Nashville:Jones Mill
Trail (ID: 334816)
>New York City:
Morgan Stewart
Shelter (ID: 26252)
>Portland, OR:Rock ofAges (ID: 251760)
>Portland, OR:
Cape Lookout Point
(ID: 36434)
>Rocky Mountain NP:
Sky Pond (ID: 350292)
>St. Louis:
Emmenegger Park
(ID: 345200)
>San Francisco:
Ao Nuevo State
Natural Reserve Hike
(ID: 350300)
>San Francisco:
Bayfront Park Loop
(ID: 350302)
>Santa Fe:BandelierCapulin Canyon
(ID: 340614)
>Santa Fe:Lake
Stewart (ID: 342904)
>Seattle:Naneum
Creek Meadows Loop
(ID: 334921)
>South Bend:Indiana
Dunes Little Calumet
River (ID: 344270)
>Washington, DC:
First Manassas Trail
(ID: 18674)
>White Mountain NF:
Baldface Loop
(ID: 27259)
>Yellowstone NP:
Bechler River Loop
(ID: 333320)
>Yellowstone NP:
Fountain Paint Pot
(ID: 30061)
Send these trips to your mobile phone or access
them on Backpacker.com. Youll get directions,
a map, and moreat no charge from us! Text
imap and Trip ID to 32075. To view them online,
typebackpacker.com/hikes/(Trip ID). Example:
For Denvers Enchanted Forest hike, text imap
337056 to 32075. Or go tobackpacker.com/
hikes/337056.
NEW TRIPS NEAR YOU!Backpacker.coms database of localtrips just keeps growingits now past2,900. This months additions include:
+
LegendBACKPACKER subscribers persquare mile by zip code
New tripsAll Backpacker.com trips
20-2008-20
4-8
2-4
1-2
0.5-1
0.3-0.5
0.1-0.3
0.075-0.1
0.05-0.075
0.025-0.05
0.01-0.025
0.0003-0.01LOWEST
DENSITY
HIGHES
T
Bend:Three Fingered JackGain 4,486 feet on this 6-mile hike
linking the Pacific Crest Trail and
a climbers path to Three Fingered
Jacks spiky summit. Map contributor
Trung Le suggests roping up for the
last 50 feet, an easy class 5 climb.
Yellowstone NP:Bechler River LoopIt takes some
Yellowstone fiends
years to discover the vast stretches
of elk-laden meadows in the
southwest corner of the park. Skip
straight to it on this moderate 8.6-miler tracking along the Bechler
River to ponderosa-lined grassland.
San Francisco:
Ao Nuevo StateNatural ReserveSee sunbathing
elephant seals
and trotting
coyotes on an
easy 3-miler.
Bryce Canyon NP: Navajo LoopHike 3 miles to gawk at rock
formations shaped like church
steeples and even poodles (p. 74).
//// //MOBILE
TURN YOUR PHONE INTO A GPS
Our site now supports GPS software for more
than 100 phones on Alltel, AT&T, BlackBerry,
Sprint, and Verizon networks. Collect trail info
and wirelessly send it to our site to see it live on
interactive maps seconds later. Download our
application at backpacker.com/postatrip.
Las Vegas:Oak Creek LoopDitch the Strip for the redrock beauty
of Oak Creek Canyon, 20 minutes west.
Youll gain 585 feet onthis easy 4.4-miler in
bighorn habitat.
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05.2009 BACKPACKER 23
READERHIKES
OF THEMONTH
THE ONLINE TALLY: 2 9 0 4 TOTAL TRIPS 0 1 5 1 NEW TRIPS 1 1 7 MAP CONTRIBUTORS
Most populartrip searches atbackpacker.com:1. Yosemite2.Appalachian Trail3.Bend, Oregon
WEISER STATE
FOREST, PABIG VIEWS, NO CROWDS
Miranda Crotsleysays day-
hikers too often overlook
this 6-mile loop in favor ofthe nearby Appalachian
Trail. Instead, link Iron Mine,
Deep Hollow, and Rocks
Ridge Trails; the route
passes streams and car-
size rocks before reach-
ing an overlook 800 feet
above the Susquehanna
River Valley. backpacker
.com/hikes/285903
MT. WHITNEY, CAPIZZA AT 14,505 FT.
Brian Marshhoned his high-
altitude baking skills (in
an oven he invented!) on
this four-day, 52.2-mile
trek to the Lower 48s
tallest peak. Fueled by
cookies and thick-crust
pizza, he created a lollipop
from Whitney Portal tothe summit, back to Rock
Creek, then over New
Army Pass. backpacker
.com/hikes/55928
White Mountains:Baldface LoopWith 4 miles of open ledges
and unobstructed views, this
8.3-mile loop ranks as one of
the most scenicand exposedalpine dayhikes in the East. The price: Youll
gain more than 3,000 feet and need to
watch the weather. Summit South and
North Baldface before noon, then cool off in
Emerald Pool, .1 mile from the trailhead.
South Bend:Little Calumet RiverGet a history lesson on this kid-
friendly loop in Indiana Dunes
National Lakeshore. The 3.4-mile
loop begins at the visitor center and
crosses a wooded ravine before
reaching a 19th-century homestead.
Gainesville: Cones DikeSee a band of Floridas
wild cracker horses on the
grassy, 8.2-mile Cones
Dike Trail (p. 27).
Birmingham: Chinnabee Silent Trail
Climb 1,000 feet to the top ofTalladega Mountain, then cool off in
two waterfall-fed swim holes (p. 72).
Fargo: NorthCountry TrailPack a camera
to shoot orchids
and butterflies on
this rolling 9-miler
through knee-high
grasses (p. 79).
JOIN THE TEAM: BACKPACKER.COM/POSTATRIP
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PHOTOBYJUDDPATTERSON.TEXTBYMELYNDACOBLEHARRISON
24 BACKPACKER 05.2009
+
DESTINATIONS
BIG SOUTH FORK, TN/KYFOLLOW FIREFLIES TO SANDSTONE ARCHES.
During the day, hikers come to the Big
South Fork for its deep, winding gorges andimposing sandstone bluffs. But on summer
nights with a new moon, the main attrac-
tion is something much more dazzling:
fireflies. From the Twin Arches trailhead,
hike south .7 mile to the Twin ArchesNorth
and South Arch (51 and 70 feet tall, respec-
tively), two of the largest natural bridges
in the east. Watch the fireflies light up the
sandstone walls. They dont blink randomly;
different patterns and sequences indicate
species, gender, territoriality, and even mat-
ing status. Continue east on the 4.6-mile
Twin Arches Loop Trail, passing rustic Charit
Creek Lodge as you close the loop.
(423) 286-7275; nps.gov/biso
THE AFTERGLOW
Enjoy midhike milk and cookies on the Charit
Creek Lodge porch. Call ahead. (865) 429-
5704; charitcreek.com.
THE WAY
From Oneida, TN, take TN 297 west 19 miles
to TN 154, turn right, and drive 1.5 miles to
Divide Road. Turn right again, and make
another quick right
onto Twin Arches
Rd. Its two miles to
the trailhead.
Glow-in-the-Dark TripsMissed bioluminescence in biology class? Here are three wild places to see this phenomenona chemicalreaction of an enzyme called luciferin and oxygen that lights up sea life, insects, and mushrooms.
SAN JUAN ISLAND, WASEA KAYAK IN SHIMMERING WATERS.
Watch trails of liquid moonlight follow your
boat as you paddle the waters around SanJuan Island. Bioluminescent plankton are
found all over the worlds oceans, but gather
in abundance here, where strong currents
upwell nutrients into the chilly waters.
Launch at Jackson Beach, in Friday Harbor,
and follow the North Bay shoreline east.
After about 300 yards, duck into the first of
several shallow coves to the north; theyre
protected from wind, which makes for bet-
ter bioluminescence spotting. The water
becomes silvery-blue when agitated. Before
rounding the peninsula, at about one mile,
turn backcurrents rip beyond here. Take
a guided tour with Discovery Sea Kayaking
(866-461-2559; discoveryseakayak.com).
THE AFTERGLOW
Create your own shine with a bottle of 1979
Don PX Gran Reserva dessert wine at Steps
Wine Bar and Caf in Friday Harbor.
stepswinebarandcafe.com
THE WAY
From Seattle, drive 80
miles north on I-5 to
WA 20. Head 9.8 miles
to Anacortes and fol-
low the signs to the
San Juan Islands Ferry.
PORCUPINE MOUNTAINS, MILINK A PATH OF GLOWING MUSHROOMS.
Known as foxfire, bioluminescent fungi is
found throughout temperate zones in wet,rotting bark. Scientists dont know why some
fungi glow and not others. One hypothesis:
The glow attracts insects, and they spread
the mushrooms spores. Bring a headlamp
(with a red filter, if you have one, to preserve
your night vision) and head north from the
Pinkerton trailhead through old-growth
conifers toward Lake Superior on Michigans
Upper Peninsula. Look for soggy, downed
trees on this 5.2-mile out-and-back, and
agitate chunks of bark to oxidize the mush-
rooms enzymes and reveal a light blue glow.
(906) 885-5275; michigan.gov/dnr
THE AFTERGLOW
Recharge with BBQ ribs and bread pudding
at Foot Hills Restaurant (906-885-5246) in
Ontonagon (five miles from Silver City).
THE WAY
From Silver City, MI, drive west
2.6 miles on MI 107. Turn left onto
South Boundary Rd. and drive 20.5
miles to the Pinkerton trailhead.
3TOP
DAYHIKES
///// /WEB EXTRA
SHINE ONRead about glowing worms, blue
fireflies, and a mushroom bright enough to
read by at backpacker.com/glow.
NIGHT FIRE: USE ASELF TIMER, SLOW
SHUTTER SPEED,AND A TRIPOD TOCATCH FIREFLIES
IN ACTION.
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Serious Tool.Seriously. Only DeLorme provides handheld GPS with high-quality aerial imagery, topo
maps, detailed street maps, and nautical charts, all integrated into one rugged waterproof
GPS. See why the Earthmate PN-40 is the only choice for everything from serious kayaking
to hiking, climbing, mountain biking, and geocaching. getserioustool.com
DELORME
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2009 Colum bia Sporrtswet ar Company.. All rights reserved..
MEET DAN HEATON, PIONEER OF OFF-ROAD UNICYCLING. DAN DIDNT GROW UP WATCHING HIS FAVORITE UNICYCLING
HEROES ON TV. HE BLAZED HIS OWN TRAIL. ON ONE WHEEL. OVER ROCKS, TREE STUMPS, PICNIC TABLES, AND CYNICS. HIS
DETERMINATION AND VISION MADE HIM A PIONEER. NOW WE ARE PROUD TO CELEBRATE HIS PASSION BY AWARDING
HIM THE GERT BOYLE MEDAL OF MERIT (M.O.M.). LEARN MORE ABOUT DAN, HIS SPORT, AND HIS GEAR AT COLUMBIA.COM.
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The Wonder Methuselah, named after the biblical character who lived to be 900, looks
like a wisp of smoke magically turned to wood. This 4,840-year-old great basin bristleconepine sits in the subalpine zone of Californias White Mountains at 11,500 feet. Its impossible
to distinguish it from the crowd, thoughits unmarked to protect it from being loved to
death. Such was the fate of the worlds former oldest tree, another great basin bristlecone,
named Prometheus, which was cut down in 1964 by an unknowing grad student.
The WayFrom the Schulman Grove
trailhead, an hour northeast of Bishop,
California, hike the Methuselah Grove
Trail, a 4.5-mile loop with 800 feet of
elevation gain. In 2.4 miles, youll reach
Methuselah Grove (rumor has it, the old
man is near the trail). Arrive at sunrise
or sunset, when trees explode in golden
hues against the gray. fs.fed.us/r5/inyo
DESTINATIONS
DAYHIKES
PHOTOSBY(FROM
TOP)DAVIDMUENCH;NOURSE/GT
PHTO;KIRKENDALLSPRING.WRITTENBYTIM
SHISLER
THIS LIGHTWEIGHT COMPOUND MAKES
ANY ADVENTURE MORE COMFORTABLE.
MOLDED AND DURABLE FOR CONSISTENT
SUPPORT ON INCONSISTENT TERRAIN.
ENOUGH IMPACT ABSORPTION TO CUSHION
FOOTSTEPS FROM NORMAL TO GNARLY.
FEATURING: THE PAGORA TRAIL SHOE
NaturalWonders
The Worlds Oldest Living TreeHike to Methuselah Grove, where conifers predate Egypts pyramids.
The Wonder New Mexicos Carlsbad Cavern is home to the
largest subterranean chamber in the states. It was discovered
in 1898 by Jim White, a 16-year-old cowhand (and eventual
national park ranger) who used a handmade wire ladder to
descend into the black abyss. Named the Big Room, its the
size of 10 and a half football fields and looks like the inside of
a cathedral made of candle wax. Stalagmites and stalactites cling tightly to the swooping
ceilings and floors, intermixed with leaning columns, rippled draperies, and delicate soda
straws all formed as carbonic acid dissolves the caves limestone.
The WayGet a ticket at the visitor center ($6) and head into the gaping cavern along
a sidewalk-wide 1.25-mile entrance trail. To see the Big Room, link to the Big Room Trail,another 1.25-mile path winding around and through impossible formations. Beat the mid-
day rush by setting off at 8:30 a.m., right when the gates open. nps.gov/cave
Americas Largest CavernDescend into a 14-acre underground chamber.
The Wonder In 1521, Spanish explorers introduced horses to
Florida. Today, you can see their ancestorsa herd of 20-odd
horsesjust 10 miles south of Gainesville, on Paynes Prairie, a
21,000-acre natural preserve. The horses name derives from
the crack of the whip brandished by Florida cowboys. Feral
bands formed after the Spanish abandoned their horses to
make room on their ships for treasure. Once used to herd cattle and pull buggies, the lastdescendants of these stout, strong Spanish mustangs are now protected on the preserve.
They stick to Cones Dike and Bolten Bluff, the best grazing in the preserve and a hangout
for wild bison, alligators, and more than 270 species of birds.
The WayHorses are roamers, but locals say that crackers reliably appear just about any-
where along Cones Dike Trail, an 8.2-mile out-and-back. From the visitor center, head .25
mile up the Jacksons Gap Trail to merge onto Cones Dike. It zigzags across the preserves
wide-open, reedy, and marshy southeastern edge. floridastateparks.org/paynesprairie
Floridas Wild Cracker HorsesSee the heirs of Ponce de Leons Spanish herd.
///// /WEB EXTRA
Three treksto life-listphenomena
SEE IT IN SOLITUDE
Methuselah is
surrounded in snow
in early spring. Go to
backpacker.com/
methuselahto plot a
killer 7-day snowshoe.
05.2009 BACKPACKER 27
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Do it Stop at the Bear Valley
Visitor Center to pick up
your camping permit, then
access the Bear Valley
Trail (BVT) at the end of
the parking lot (1)for a
12.5-mile lollipop loop that winds through
pungent eucalyptus forests to the Pacific.
Cruise a quarter of a mile to the Bear Valley
Creek to a junction with the Mt. Wittenberg
and Meadow Trails (2). Continue on the
BVT for a smooth .6 mile southwest into a
grove of Douglas firs (3). Pack binoculars:
The trees and low-lying greenery here teem
with 490 bird species, including the acornwoodpecker with its monkeylike scream
and showy blue-and-black Stellars Jays.
At 1.6 miles, the BVT forks left (4)to Divide
Meadow. Keep your eyes peeled for graz-
ing black-tailed deer as you hike through
the tall grasses. In another 1.7 miles, turn
left onto the Glen Trail (5)at a three-way
interchange with the Baldy Trail and BVT.
The trail gains 301 feet over the next half-
mile and narrows to a singletrack lined with
delicate five-finger ferns. Veer left onto
the Glen Camp Trail (6) and wind through
Spanish moss and horsetail ferns in a forest
so dense youll need your camera flash for
snapshots. Descend through a eucalyptus
glade (7)and truck into wooded Glen Camp
(8)after a 4.7-mile day. The next day, head
northwest on Glen Camp Trail (9).9 mile to
a junction (10)and turn west on the Coast
Trail to hike to the sheer cliffs at Arch Rock
overlook (mile 7.8) (11). Brown pelicans and
sea lions crowd the rocks below year-round.
Follow a use path on the left down to the
beach to see harbor seals surfing and to
take a break in the soft sand and shade
beneath Arch Rock. Backtrack on the Coast
Trail to link to the BVT (12), completing the
loop and heading back 4.5 miles to the Bear
Valley Visitor Center.
TripPlanner
05.2009 BACKPACKER 29
PHOTOBYSCOTTMANSFIELD;BACKSIDE:HOWARDHALL
/ANIMALSANIMALS
(LEFT);CORBIS/AGEFOTOSTOCK.WRITTEN
BYJOANNANASAR.MAPPEDBYDAVEMILLER
PermitMake campsite
reservations (up to three
months in advance) for
weekends, holidays, and
spring break ($15/group).
(415) 663-8054
DrivingFrom San
Francisco, take US 101
north seven miles to CA
1. Stay on CA 1, heading
north, for 26.1 miles, then
turn left on Bear Valley Rd.
Go .5 mile, then turn left
on the road to Bear Valley
Visitor Center. Park at the
far end of the lot.
Gear upPick up batter-
ies, duct tape, and stove
fuel at Building Supply
Center, 11280 CA 1, Point
Reyes Station, CA; (415)
663-1737
Hike across forested hills to gapeat ocean vistas just one hour northof San Francisco.
Data Map
Glen Camp LoopPoint Reyes National Seashore
GOLDEN COAST: YOULL COME TOTHIS VIEW, FROM ATOP ARCH ROCK,ON THE HIKES SECOND MORNING.
UTM10S 0516457 4204425N
//// //MOBILE
MAP & MORESend a
topo, photos, and route
info to your cell by texting
imap 51227 to 32075.
Day 1 Day 2
0 ft
800 ft
.2
12
3 4 6 7 85 9 1011
12
.6 .8
mi.
1.7 .5 .8 .1 .8 .9 1.4 .2 4.5
Rip&Go
Total Miles: 12.5
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With its well-established trails,
routefinding here would seem a
cinch. But with nearly 200 days of
fog per year, Point Reyes National
Seashore is one of the haziest
places on Earth. Warm air from the
Pacific bumps into cooler inland
air and produces enough fog to
reduce visibility to a few hundred
feet in a matter of seconds. Use
these tips to get through the mist.
[ ] granola bars (7)
[ ] 4 oz. goat cheese (7)
[ ] 2 wheat rolls (3)
[ ] 1 cucumber (produce)
[ ] 1 banana (produce)
[ ] C. Parmesancheese (7)
[ ] 1 garlic clove
(produce)
[ ] 2 oz. mushrooms
(produce)
[ ] 1 lemon (produce)
[ ] 16 oz. penne
pasta (4)
[ ] 12 oz. trail mix (1)
[ ] 1 C. pancake mix (2)
[ ]3 Tbs. powderedmilk (2)
[ ] 8 oz. cheddar (7)
[ ] vegan jerky (1)
Pack pepper and olive oil
THEGROCERY LISTOn The Menu
Breakfast 1
Granola bars
Lunch 1 and 2
Al fresco goat
cheese and
cucumbersandwiches
Snack 1
Trail mix, cheddar
Dinner
Lemon pepper
penne with
mushrooms
Breakfast 2
Banana pancakes
Snack 2
Vegan jerky
1)Do periodic checksVerify your map
position immediately when fog
moves in and every half hour after.
2)Navigate object to objectIf the
fog is too dense to find your way,
take a compass bearing from your
current location to your intended
destination. Then, note any obvious
landmark in your line of travel, and
move without deviating until you
reach it. When you get there, take
another sighting, pick a
new landmark, and repeat.
3)Play leapfrogIn featureless
terrain, like a large open meadow,
use hiking partners as intermedi-
ate objects. Send them forward
as far as possible and wave them
into position along your course.
Then leapfrog ahead. Give them
the compass as you pass so they
can repeat the leapfrog.
NEARESTGROCERY STORE:PALACE MARKET11300 State Route 1, Point ReyesStation, CA; (415) 663-1016
30 BACKPACKER 05.2009
+
DESTINATIONS
KeySkill
THE SANANDREAS FAULTDetour from the
Bear Valley Visitor
Center on the.6-mile Earthquake
Trail to see the
famous rock
fracture that
bisects Point Reyes
Peninsula, which
shifted 20 feet
northwest from
the mainland in
a magnitude 7.8
earthquake in 1906.
LocalsKnowTake time to scan the Pacific Ocean at Chimney Rock or Lighthouse Point
for gray whales, Pacific white-sided dolphins, harbor seals, northern elephant
seals, and killer whales, says Ranger Doug Hee. From the overlook, search for
migrating grays swimming with their calves near the shore in late April and early
May as they migrate to Alaska. Its easy to spot grays at Chimney Rock. The
adults have white barnacles and they swim very close to the cliffs. Theres no
other whale on the Reyes Shore that behaves this way, says Hee.
Lemon Pepper Pennewith MushroomsAn easy (and zesty)
one-pot meal
cup Parmesan cheese1 garlic clove
cup mushrooms
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 lemon
teaspoon pepper
16 ounces penne pasta
Boil 4 cups water. Add penne.
Slice lemon and mushrooms,
dice garlic. Drain pasta; return
to pot. Add oil, garlic, pepper,
shrooms, lemon, parm. Saut.
Point Reyes PancakesA potassium-fortified (and
chocolatey) breakfast
1 banana
1 cup pancake mix cup milk, from powder
cup trail mix
1 tablespoon olive oil
Peel and slice banana. Add
oil to pan and heat. Stir milk,
pancake mix, and trail mix in a
medium-size pot until blended.
Pour large spoonfuls of bat-
ter onto frying pan. Flip cakes
when edges are dry. Cook until
golden. Top with banana.
*
Hear that loud
croaking outsideof your tent? Itsa non-native East
Coast bullfrog. California red-leggedfrogs once hopped all over thisarea, but in the late 1800s, thered-leggeds became popular cuisinein Bay Area restaurants and werehunted nearly to extinction. The EastCoast bullfrog was introduced tomeet consumer demand, but hasalso become a predator of the
still-endangered red. Discuss: Haveyou ever eaten frog legs? And if so,is this delicacy really that good?
SeeThis
Navigatethrough fog
WEEKENDS
Camp
Chat
(AISLE #)IN NEARESTSTOREBELOW
PIT STOP Station House CafWash down a blue cheese burger with a pint of Anchor
Steam beer (415-663-1515; stationhousecafe.com/menus). Try the Hog IslandOysters for an appetizer.
Glen Camp Loop
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05.2009 BACKPACKER 31
PHOTOBYKIM
PHILLIPS;BACKSIDE:TIM
ROMANO(LEF
T);TOM
&PATLEESON.WRITTENBYADRIENNEISAAC.MAPPEDB
YKIM
PHILLIPSANDSCOTTGATES
Do itThis 16.3-mile loop two
hours northwest of Denver
delivers national park-
caliber sceneryclutches
of 13,000-foot peaks amid
trout-laden alpine lakes
with a dose of wilderness-grade solitude.
From the Bowen-Baker trailhead (1), set off
through a mile of Rocky Mountain National
Park forest before crossing into the 21,090-
acre Never Summer Wilderness. Bear right
at the Y heading northwest toward Baker
Gulch (2). Climb 2,500 feet on the 5.4-
mile hike to camp, passing under mixedconifers before reaching open glades (3).
Look left for moose (they hang here), then
cross Baker Gulch at mile 4.2. From here,
its 1.3 switchbacking miles through Indian
paintbrush and columbine to your camp at
Parika Lake (11,380 feet) (4). Bring a rod to
cast for dinner (flip page for tips).
The next morning, get moving by 8
a.m. to conquer the days Continental
Divide ridgewalk (5)before afternoon
storms move in (usually 2 p.m. in summer
months). Youll reach the ridge in .6 mile,
gaining 600 feet. Turn southwest onto the
Divide for 360-degree views of the three
cloud mountains of the Never Summer
Range: Mts. Cumulus (12,725 feet), Nimbus
(12,706 feet), and Stratus (12,461 feet). In
1.4 miles, turn left at the T-junction to link
to the Continental Divide Trail (6). Youll
pass fields of knee-high wildflowers (July)
for about a mile before reaching Bowen
Pass(7). From here, drop 1,000 feet over 1.4
miles to a junction with Bowen Lake Trail
(8). Got an extra day? Turn down the path
and hike 1.4 miles to hit a secluded site (9)
at Bowen Lake (11,019 feet). Otherwise,
continue southeast down the gulch, through
thick spruce and lodgepole, steering left at
its end (10)to reach your car in 2.7 miles.
Get national park scenery withoutthe crowds on an alpine overnight
with lakeside camping.
Bowen-Baker LoopNever Summer Wilderness, CO
The WayFrom Estes Park,
take US 36 seven miles
west to RMNPs Beaver
Meadows entrance. Veer
left onto US 34/Trail Ridge
Rd. and drive 30 miles to
the Bowen-Baker trailhead.
Permit$20 for entry to
Rocky Mountain National
Park; (970) 586-1242,
nps.gov/romo
Gear upGrab supplies or
gear rentals (packs, bags,
pads, and fishing gear) at
Estes Park Mountain Shop,
2050 Big Thompson Ave.,
Estes Park, CO; (866)
303-6548.
ConditionsTrail Ridge Rd. is
closed from November to
April. Check conditions at
(970) 586-1206.
TripPlanner
Data Map
A FAIR VIEW INDEED: HIKERSDESCEND THE GRASSY SLOPES OF
12,246-FOOT FAIRVIEW MOUNTAIN INTHE NEVER SUMMER WILDERNESS.
//// //MOBILE
MAP & MORESend a
topo, photos, and route
info to your cell by texting
imap 31040 to 32075.
Day 1 Day 2
8,000 ft
13,000 ft
9 1086432
51
.3 2.7 2.7 .6 1.4 1.4 1.4 5.3
mi.
2.7
Rip&Go
7
.8
Total Miles: 19.3
UTM13T 0418960E 4470170N
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32 BACKPACKER 05.2009
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DESTINATIONS
The Never
Summers cut-
throats could
convert a vegetar-
ian. Youll have to
catch one to find
out (Locals Know,below). But plan
for success by
packing a sharp
knife, and follow-
ing these tips.
1)Remove the
hook, then rinse
the fish to remove
its natural layer of
slime. Dont worry
about descaling or
filletingsmall trout
(less than 12) are
best cooked whole.
2)Grasp the fish by
[ ]1 pack oatmeal
raisin cookies (3)
[ ]2 bagels (bakery)
[ ]1 bag jerky
(checkout)
[ ]2 Snickers bars (3)[ ]1 jar peanut
butter (1)
[ ]1 banana (1)
[ ]1 bag raisins or
dried cranberries (3)
[ ]Instant brown
sugar and cinnamon
oatmeal (3)
[ ]16 oz. penne
pasta (2)
[ ]8 oz. spinach (1)[ ]1 clove garlic (1)
[ ]8 oz. Kalamata
olives (1)
[ ]3 oz. feta cheese (4)
[ ] 4 oz. honey (1)
Breakfast 1
On the road
Snack 1
Oatmeal cookies
Lunches 1 and 2
Peanut butter,bagels, honey
Dinner
Parika pasta
(w/trout if you
got lucky)
Breakfast 2
Never Summer
oatmeal
Snack 2
Jerky/Snickers
the head and cut the
flesh from the anus
(vent) to the gills. (A)
3)Pull out the entrails
from the head toward
the tail. (B)
4)Cut out the blood-line along the back-
bone with your knife
(or scrape out with a
spoon).
5)Clean out the
inside with water. (C)
6)Pan-fry with olive
oil and seasonings
or poach for 10-12
minutes, then remove
the bones and skin.
KeySkill MOOSEThe verdant Kawuneeche
Valley stretches along
the border of RockyMountain National Park
and the Never Summer
Wilderness. Glacial ice
measuring more than 20 miles long carved out this
marshy lowland, creating a U-shaped homestead
for megafauna. Kawuneeche means coyote creek
in the language of native Arapaho, but today moose
reign supreme. Rangers estimate that the local
moose population tops 700. Youll see the most
from mid-July to late August, when its warm and
grasses are abundant. Moose tracks are larger and
pointier than those of elk, which also live here.
Never Summer OatmealAdd pizzazz to instant oats with
this crazy twist.
1 package instant oatmeal
1 handful Craisins1 banana, quartered and sliced
Snickers bar (optional)
Heat water and add to instant
oatmeal. Throw in banana
pieces, craisins, and hunks of
Snickers. Stir, serve.
Parika PastaA carb-tastic dinner so good
youll make it at home.
8 ounces spinach
16 ounces penne pasta1 clove garlic, chopped
1 cup pitted Kalamata olives,
chopped
3 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
(about cup)
Boil water. Add the greens and
cook until tender. Spoon out
and place in a bowl. Return the
water to a boil. Add the pasta;
cook until done. Drain water, stir
in greens, olives, garlic, and feta.
*
Notice those brown
pines? The mountainpine beetle has infestedmore than 1.5 million
acres of Colorado forest since 1996.In a healthy ecosystem, beetles arekept in check by long stretches ofsubzero temps, but a warming trendhas both enabled the bugs to maturefaster and weakened trees. Expertssay Colorado could lose its lodge-pole pines by 2050. Discuss: Shouldwe intervene in protected areas, by
thinning trees or spraying, though bydefinition a wilderness is to remainuntouched by human hands?
SeeThis
Clean andcook a trout
WEEKENDS
LNTDouble-bag the entrails and
bones to pack them out or bury them
at least .5 mile from camp.
On The Menu
A
C
B
LocalsKnowArea fly-fishing guides envy you. According to Jeff
Ehlert, co-owner of Grand County Fishing Company,
Bowen, Blue, and Parika Lakes (the last of which
youll be camping by) offer some of the best early-
season cutthroat trout fishing in the Never Summers.
These lakes are less crowded for a really simple
reason: Most fishermen dont want to hike in that far,
he says. Pack a 6-weight rod (see Gear Up for rental info)
and use little ant (pictured at right, up to size 14) and beetle
patterns in spring. Toward late summer, when the fish turn into finicky eat-
ers, use scud patternsthey look like the small freshwater shrimp on whichthe fish naturally feed. During the initial thaw, though, The fish will eat a bare
hook if you throw it in, Ehlert says. Pick up a fishing license ($9 for a one-day
permit) at Estes Park Mountain Shop (flip page for contact info).
CampChat
(AISLE #)IN NEARESTSTOREBELOW
THEGROCERY LIST
NEARESTGROCERY STORE:THE COUNTRY MARKETAT NATIONAL PARK VILLAGE900 Moraine Ave., Estes Park,Colorado; (970) 586-2702
THE PIT STOP Try a Mountain Mai Tai and the buffalo-and-bacon meatloaf at
Peak-to-Peak American Grille,451 South Saint Vrain Ave., Estes Park, CO; (970) 577-0577.
Bowen-Baker Loop
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34 BACKPACKER 05.2009
DESTINATIONS
[ ] C. instant
cooking grits (9)
[ ]15 oz. of cheddar
cheese (13)
[ ]4 plain
bagels (deli)[ ]1 jar of peanut
butter (3)
[ ]2 packets ramen
(any flavor) (5)
[ ] pepperoni(back wall)
[ ]8 oz. pecans
(produce)
[ ]C. instant
potato flakes (4)
[ ]1 oz. jerky (12)
[ ] C. powderedmilk (6)
Packgarlic powder, salt,
pepper, and olive oil
THEGROCERY LISTOn The Menu
Breakfast 1
Cheesy grits
Lunch 1
Bagel with
peanut butter
Dinner 1Bigfoot jerkypotatoes
Breakfast 2
Bagel with
cheese and
pepperoni
Lunch 2
Instant ramen
Snacks
Roasted pecans
OVENBIRDThe Cohutta
Wilderness lies
directly under theMississippi flyway,
the path many
migratory birds in
the East use to wing
it south. Ovenbirds travel more than 2,000 miles to
Nicaragua, flying by night at speeds up to 40 mph.
Northern Georgia is also the birds summer breed-
ing ground, so listen for the loud chirping call cher
teacher, teacher, teacherand then look for its nest on
the ground. Nests look like miniature clay ovens or
adobe huts with small doors. Peer though the door
to see this teeny brown-and-whitespeckled bird.
Locals KnowThe Cohutta is the largest federallyprotected wilderness in the East, withmore than 40,000 acres in Georgia
and Tennessee. Two major rivers
the Jacks and the Conasaugarun
though the lush forest, whose aver-
age annual rainfall is more than 60
inches. Not coincidentally, it is home
to some of the regions best swim-
ming holes. Cut the summer heat
with a dip at the base of Jacks River
Falls, or, if its crowded with dayhik-
ers, save your swim for more idyllic
and secluded pools just a couple of
miles upstream at Horseshoe Bend,
a swooping oxbow of calm tealwater that may just slow you down enough that youll have to stay another
day, says recreation manager Larry Thomas. (Find good campsites where the
JRT links to the Horseshoe Bend Trail.)
Bigfoot Jerky PotatoesTasty enough to satisfy anyone.
Or anything.
cup instant potato flakes
1 ounce of jerky1 cup dehydrated milk
tablespoon garlic powder
Pinch of salt and pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup water
Cut jerky into small pieces. Bring
water to boil. Add dry ingredi-
ents, take off heat and cover for
6 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add olive oil and serve.
Cheesy GritsDive into a bowl of the Souths
favorite breakfast.
cup instant grits
1 cup water1 ounce cheddar cheese
Pinch of salt and pepper
