KANJEEVARAM SAREES

-PARNIKA JAIN-PRERNA GUPTA-PRACHI SINGH

KANJEEVARAM SILK SAREE

Kanjeevaram silk saree is a magnificent creation of the craftsmen living in a small town, Kanchi (Kanchipuram), situated near the Bangalore city of South India.

named after the town in which it is produced. The silk used in the creation of Kanjivaram saree is extremely fine as well as durable and is one of the most popular forms of silk in the state of Tamil Nadu

Kanjivaram sarees make use of a combination of numerous colored threads. Adding to the attraction of the saris is the exquisite and elaborate zari work.

The motifs used in an Indian Kanchipuram sari are heavily based on the Pallava temples, palaces and paintings.

Bright blues, purples and greens, or vibrant reds, oranges or yellows have formed the traditional color palette. Recently, colors have been combined to create a blue-green that varies according to light, or a saree that is beige in daylight and golden under artificial light.

The sheer magnitude of textures, colors and designs of Kanjivaram silk saris of India is incredible. Simple saris can be prepared in about 10 to 12 days. However, decorative ones require up to 20 days of workmanship. Kanjeevarams are expensive and can cost anywhere between Rs. 2000 to Rs. 50,000.

If maintained properly, kanjeevarams can last a hundred years.

Kanji silk is thicker than almost all other silks, and is therefore more expensive.

. The heavier the silk, the better the quality. Though lightweight kanji sarees are popular as they are easy to wear and cost very little. While Korean and Chinese silk is suitable for light-weight sarees (machine woven), only mulberry silk produced in Karnataka and few parts of Tamil Nadu, is right for the classic Kanjeevaram.

THE MAKING OF KANJEEVARAM SAREES

Making these sarees is very easy, but to decorate them is very difficult as it takes about 20 or more days.

The procedure of making an Indian Kanchipuram sari commences with the task of preparing the thread, which is used at the weaver's loom.

This involves, first, twisting the thread and then, dying and drying it in the sun. The border, the body and the pallu of the sari are created separately by the weaver. Then, he interlocks them together in an extremely tight joint.

PAITHANI SAREES

The Paithani saree is known the world over for its uniqueness. It is one of the most beautiful sarees in the world. Beautifully crafted, with an exquisite zari border, this saree is truly a poem in silk.

Paithani sarees are the famous silk sarees of Maharashtra. It is a hand-woven sari of gorgeous colours, intricate design and painstaking labour and treasured as a valuable possession in every Maharashtrian family.

HISTORY

The Paithani derives its name from Paithan, the place where it has been produced for 2000 years. It is essentially a silk saree with an ornamented zari pallu and border.

The motifs used are mostly traditional vines and flowers, shapes of fruits and stylized forms of birds and the saree is often known by the motif that dominates its border or pallav – Asavli (vine and flowers), Narli, Kuyri, Bangdi Mor (peacocks in the bangle) and so on.

In the making of a Paithani saree pure silk is used along with the zari or gold threads drawn from pure gold. It takes almost six months to one and a half years to weave an intricately brocaded Paithani saree.

Paithan, is the home of the Paithani saree. The art is as ancient as the river Godavari. The Maratha Peshwas had a special love for this Paithani fabric. The paithani is still most celebrated textile of Maharashtra.

Over the years the traditional method of weaving these sarees has remained unchanged. Women operate wooden looms and weave the sarees in vivid blues, purples, and magentas, mixed with gold threads.

TYPES OF PAITHANI SAREES

There are different types of Paithani saris, classified on the basis of three criteria - motif, weaving and color. 

Classification by Motif:Bangadi Mor (Peacock in a bangle or in a

bangle shape, woven in pallu)Munia brocade (Parrots woven on the pallu

as well as in border)Lotus brocade (Lotus motifs used in pallu

and maybe border)

Classification by WeavingKadiyal border sari (Warp and weft of

the border are of the same color, body has different colors for warp and weft)

Kad/Ekdhoti (Single shuttle used for weaving of weft and colors of warp yarn different from that of weft yarn)

Classification by ColorKalichandrakala (Black sari with red

border)Raghu (Parrot green sari)Shirodak (Pure white sari)

MOTIFS AND COLOURS USED IN PAITHANI SAREES

Traditionally the colour of the border and pallu is different from that of the main body of the saree. The types of paithani designs are the:

asavali (vine and flowers)akruti (square flower forms)narli (coconut form)pankha (fan)rui phul (a kind of flower

FABRIC USED IN PAITHANI SAREES

The Paithani sarees, are made of silk in rich, vivid colours with gold embroidery. In the modern Paithani sarees, silver threads coated with gold are used instead of pure gold threads.

pure silk is used in the weaving of the body and pure gold and silver zari is used in the pallu and the border.

The process of preparation of a Paithani saree can take a time period ranging from a month to years. It is because of these reasons that this saree is rather expensive.

WEAVING PROCESS

The art of fine weaving and the complex processes of bleaching and dyeing and the arts of hand and loom embroidery were perfected by the people of India long before conditions in the textile industry were modernized

These crafts were mostly hereditary and the qualities required of a true artisan were apprenticeship, devotion to duty and co-operation. The knowledge of the arts and crafts was imparted from one generation to the next.

The speciality of the paithani is its border and pallav. Earlier just 2-3 colours were popular which were integrated in the sari in the dhup chaon pattern which, when translated, means light and shade.

The speciality of the paithani is its border and pallav. Earlier just 2-3 colours were popular which were integrated in the sari in the dhup chaon pattern which, when translated, means light and shade.

The basic weave of the paithani sari is simple. It is a tabby weave but more recently even the modern jacquard has been incorporated. The speciality lies in the design which is woven without the assistance of a mechanical contriance like a jala. On a zari warp thread the weft is interlocked with different colours.

The border as well as the pallav carry creeper and floral motifs on a background of gold. The pallu is a fascinating piece of gold tissue having coloured rosettes, sometimes birds are woven. Such saris are worn by brides.

PAITHANI SAREE TODAY

the Paithani saree has very few takers. Only those who are aware of its exquisiteness and its heritage prefer to go for one. The declining popularity of the Paithani saree can be attributed to its traditional look, the high price and the stiffness of the saree.

The traditional motifs used in the saree give it a very orthodox look. Moreover, the fabric used in the saree gives it certain stiffness, due to which draping becomes a bit difficult for the wearer.

started the production of Paithani dress materials, scarves and other household items. There are very few weavers who still practice this art.

To overcome these drawbacks, it is necessary that more innovative motifs be used in Paithani sarees. It has also become necessary to use a different fabric in these sarees so that a better drape can be achieved.

Weavers are trying to make certain changes in the traditional Paithani saree so as to bring down the cost of production and hence, the price. Attempts are being made to make the process of production more capital intensive rather than labor intensive.

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