APPAREL INTERNSHIP

By ASMITA BAG

JOYITA SARKAR

SAPTARSHI ROY

COMPANY PROFILE

Founded in 1931

Arvind is of the largest ready-made Jeans manufacturing industry in India with an annual capacity of 9 million pieces. The facility is equipped with a state of the art laundry, which offers specialty washes in addition to the basic stone, enzyme and bleach washes. They are capable of specialty finishes like hand sanding, sand blasting, whiskers with laser and hand; garment tinting, spraying, brushing, grinding, and permanent creasing and coating. Key automations like the cylindrical feed of the arm, loop attach machine, pocket attach machines etc. ensure the highest efficiency. The product mix includes innovative products like recycled jeans, organic and fair trade jeans, and various performance finishes.

ARVIND UNFOLDED

Products/Services Offered : Export & Domestic Industry focus : Denim Jeans and Knits

Geographic Markets : Europe & USA markets No. of Employees : 2500

Production : 3 lakhs(approx.) denim bottoms / month

Annual turnover : About 36 crore rupees

Legal Representative/CEO : Mr. Anand

Name of the parent group : Lalbhai Group

Year of establishment : 2004

Mode of fabrication : 90 in-house & 10 % outsourced.

Name of the factoryArvind Limited, Lifestyle Apparel Jeans (Denim

Division). Location Plot No. 26/2 & 27/2, Kenchenahalli, Kengeri

Hobli, Mysore Road, Bengaluru, Karnataka

Corporate address Arvind Mills Limited, Du Parc Trinity, 8th Floor, 17, M. G. Road, Bengaluru, Karnataka

Units • Yeshwantpur Plant(YP) • Mysore Road Plant(MR) • Bommasandara Plant(AFL)

Company profile

Joint Venture BrandsBridge to LuxuryTommy Hilfiger

Nautica

PremiumLee

Wrangler

PopularWrangler Hero

RidersOther customers

include:-ESPRITFCUK

VF CorporationGuess

Spring fieldLevi’s

BuffaloGAP

Spring FieldTommy Hilfiger

Banana RepublicH&M

OWN BRANDS

MainstreamExcalibur

Flying Machine

PopularRuff & Tuff

New Port University

Licensed BrandsBridge to Luxury

Gant, U.S.A. 1949

PremiumUSPA

SansaBeltIzod

Pier Cardin ParisArrow

PopularCherokee

CERTIFICATIONS

The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with

– ISO 9000 prescribed to control the activities effecting the environment. This gives an international recognition for adhering to the system protecting the environment and natural resources.

– ISO 14001 prescribed to control the activities effecting the environment. This gives an international recognition for adhering to the system protecting the environment and natural resources.

– OEKOTEX 100

– GOTS (The Global Organic Textile Standard) recognizes the textiles manufactured world-wide which is made of organic fibers. This certification is provided only for textile products which are manufactured with minimum of 70% organic fibers. It also adds up the criterion that the chemicals, dyes used and other materials much meet the required environment standards

– Organic exchange standard. Arvind’s labs are certified by NABL National Accreditation Board for Testing and Calibration Laboratories (ISO17025 certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc.

ORGANISATION

WORKFLOW

MERCHANDISING

PPC

10

DEPARTMENT STUDY

ARVIND LTD, DENIM DIVISION

Proto/first sample-second fit-third fit

Cost closure

Negotiating MOQ

Getting wash and size set samples

approved

Confirmation of Purchase

Order

PP samples made in one

size

Ordering the bulk fabric and trims as per quantity

Making TnA calendar and

deciding lead time

PP meeting

File Release

MERCHANDISINGPROCESS FLOW

The two types of merchandising done in garment export are:

– Marketing merchandising.

– Product merchandising.

– Marketing merchandising

Main function of marketing merchandising is:

Product Development

Costing

Ordering

Marketing merchandising is to bring orders, costing, product development and it has direct contact with the buyer.

– Product Merchandising

Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment.

FUNCTIONS OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT – Indent received from the merchant

The merchant concerned with that particular account of the buyer gives a sampling indent before proceeding on with the actual making of the sample. This indent is an amalgamation of all the information necessary to make a sample, including buyer’s name, style name, season, sample name, fabric number etc. The merchant has to give all the required fabrics, trims for the making of the samples. This is documented in a file to track and analyze the samples and the comments received on them.

– Collect fabric

The merchant sources the fabric required for the making of the samples. He either orders the fabric on his own, or sends his requirement to the purchase department which later issues the order to the mill.

– Collect trims

The merchant collects the various trims a particular styled garment needs. This is given to the sampling department along with the sampling indent.

Style verification with the Industrial Engineering and technical department

The technical head goes through the information provided in the tech pack for the making of the samples and clears doubts (if any) and proceeds with the actual sampling activities.

– Pattern making

The patterns are developed by the CAD department. This is done on the mini marker.

– Shrinkage testing

Shrinkage testing is done on one meter of fabric, if there is any palpable shrinkage, it’s added onto the patterns otherwise proceeded as such.

– Pattern printing, trimming and checking

The patterns are printed, trimmed and checked for any corrections. The required changes are made.

– Cutting

The fabric is cut using the patterns developed by the CAD department.

– Embroidery/print/embellishment etc

Embroidery/printing/embellishments are done depending upon the requirements of the styles.

Construction of samples

The samples are constructed using the tech pack by the workers in the sewing line of the sampling department.

– Verify before wash

The samples are verified before sending them forth for the process of washing. This is basically done to find the source of defects and eliminate them at point source.

– Receive after wash

The samples are received after washing for further processes. If the wash is not satisfactory, they are sent for rework.

– Finishing and verification for quality and specifications

The samples are received for finishing, trimming etc. Once all the value addition processes are over, the technical team reviews it, to see the conformation to the specifications of the style. Any changes required are made.

– Review sheet along with the sample is sent to the buyer

The sample is sent to the buyer along with all the required documents, namely the review sheets, the tech pack and style details. The buyer makes comments (this may include certain changes too) which are later incorporated in the samples sent afterward

SAMPLING

Sampling is basically the process of producing few garment in order to match the various buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style etc. as soon as any order is received the tech pack is handed over to the sampling department and various samples of the product are developed in order to get the orders confirmed from the buyer. It is a model of what the bulk production is going to be done.

Garment sampling is a very important task in an apparel manufacturing because it gives the satisfaction of the customer with respect to the product being manufactured. This is in turn important because if the buyer is not satisfied by the samples, this puts the following at risk:

– Placement of the order

– Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments produced

– When the product is in the sampling stage, the buyer might suggest few alternations or changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the requirement of the style which are incorporated in the further samples and finally a green tag sample is made and approved by the buyer which is the actual representation of the product and handed over to the production floor as a guide for the operators to be followed while the bulk production is going on.

– In these stage, the company checked the feasibility of the garment whether it is affordable or not and the company have the machineries to do the operations to make that particular style of garment.

– Though sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various problems which might be faced during the bulk production if sampling is not done.

PURPOSE:– To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the

manufacturer.

– To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.

– To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost quotations.

– This department makes the samples of DENIM (Jeans) and KNITS (T-shirts & Lingerie). But the company only does bulk production of Denim. After getting knits approval from buyer, the bulk productions of knits are done in other units.

HIERARCHY OF FLOW

MANAGER SAMPLING

TECHNICIAN

QUALITY EXECUTIVE

QUALITY OFFICER

ASSOCIATE TECH MANAGER

QUALITY EXECUTIVE

QUALITY OFFICER

QUALITY OFFICER

SAMPLE EXECUTIVE

SAMPLING SEWING EXECUTIVE

OFFICER SAMPLING

DIFFERENT SAMPLES– Development sample– Fit/Proto sample– Coordination sample– Salesmanship sample– Fit sample– Photo shoot sample– GPT sample

– Add sample– Jump size set sample– Pre- production sample– Gold sealed sample– Wash sample– Yellow seal sample– Green seal sample

PROCEDUREMerchant receives

the buyer requirements

Sampling dept. develops the proto

sample and sends it to the buyer

ApprovalBuyer asks for the fit sample

Pattern section creates the

pattern

Sampling section develops the fit sample

and sends it to buyer

Approval of fit sample

Buyer asks for PP samples

– PATTERN MAKING SECTIONIn this section, the pattern masters are asked to make pattern as per the buyer requirements. From pattern

making to printing, the company uses the CAD software. There are two types of buyers –

– One who give the pattern block and tech pack which consists of all the detailed information about the garment (style, measurements, fabric details, trim details, shrinkage % etc), this type of pattern is called buyer block. Only reputed buyers like Levis send the buyer blocks to the company and for this type of block they pattern master need not to change the pattern and they only do grading and make marker of the patterns and get the print out.

– Other type of buyers who give only the measurements and tech pack where they only mentioned about the fabric and trims details as well as the style. These patterns are called block pattern. For this type of patterns, the pattern masters have to make the patterns by CAD software with the measurements the buyer given. And for these type of buyer, the department do shrinkage test and give the details to the pattern masters. According to that shrinkage % the masters changes the patterns.

– Sometimes, some buyers give wrong measurements, for that the company gives some suggestions to that buyers and after discussion; the buyers accepted the proposed tech pack or process given by the company.

WORKING OF SUB DEPARTMENTS IN SAMPLING

PROCEDURE:

– First, the pattern masters get the pattern indent issued by the merchant where all the specifications given about the patterns. Along with patterns, the masters get the tech pack where all the measurements are given.

– Then according to the specification, they make the pattern (including notch mark, darts etc) and add shrinkage as per the requirements on the CAD software.

– They do the grading of the patterns then.

– After that they send the patterns to the marker making departments. The marker makers make the marker by placing the patterns in such a way so that the marker has the optimum utilization of patterns.

– After that, the marker is sent for printing. Here in this section, the marker makers gives the seam allowances and other details like GSM etc to the patterns and after that it is printed by the plotter.

– After that, they verify the patterns and send the patterns along with the ready sample to the buyer. If the buyer changes some part or want some alteration, the masters get the sample request again by the merchant and according to the specification they changes the patterns.

The CAD Softwares used for making patterns and markers are:

– GERBER TECHNOLOGY (ACCUMARK Pattern Design Software) – mother software using it since 12 years. It is windows based software; satisfy their most demanding design and production requirements. AccuMark provides seamless integration with Gerber’s automated spreading, cutting and PLM systems for more effective work order management – helping customer to improve efficiency and optimize results.

– LECTRA CAD SOFTWARE more complicated than Gerber and it is dos based software. At the crossroads of design and production, patterns made by Lectra drives brand consistency in terms of fit and look.

– TUKA TECH provides 2D as well as 3D pattern making and design technology. TUKA Cad has multi-tasking & Multi-user operation ability, built-in e-mail & Automatic data maintenance. Also, it features Digitizing, First Pattern Design, Pattern Alterations, Auto patterns, Grading, Style Definitions & Various other features. The company recently use the trial version of TUKA 3D, from 2 months. Now they are thinking to implement it. The 3D software has the automatic dummy facility which helps in see the fit and fall of the pattern by inserting the pattern to the dummy.

– GRADING: After pattern making, the grading is done to the patterns. Grading is the process of creating a range of sizes for a single style. Grading a pattern is a way of sizing a pattern up (or down) while maintaining the proportions of the original pattern.

– MARKER MAKING: A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in one spread. Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric and distribution of sizes. Marker making is done by CAD systems which give accuracy, increase control over variables and reduces time required in making markers. The efficiency of marker making in the CAD section is 85% - 87%. Size set marker consists of different size of same style of garment. For different type of appearance of fabric, they use different markers like solid marker (one way, two way directions), stripes, checks, colors.

– PLOTTING: The plotter is a computer printer for printing vector graphics. Plotters were used in applications such as computer-aided design. A plotter gives a hard copy of the output. It draws pictures on paper using a pen. After getting the marker request from the maker making section, they give the allowances and put the details about the fabric like GSM, style no. etc on the pattern block and print it by the plotter. In this section, there are two types of plotter. One is used only for print the markers. And the other one is the automatic cutter plotters which prints the marker cut the patterns simultaneously which are used in cutting section of sampling department. The patterns cut manually also.

PROBLEMS FACED DURING USING OF THE SOFTWARE:– Facing problems when a complicated style has come. For that the

company makes a knock off of the garment or style and check the feasibility.

– If they faced software problems they directly mailed to the software manufacturing company and the software company upgrades the software and solves the problems.

– Manpower: 2 CAD managers, 11 pattern masters, 1 data operator, 1 coordinator, 3 trimmers.

– Equipments: 18 Computers, 2 Plotters, 1 Auto cutter m/c, 5 AC, 14 Lights and 4 Fans.

CUTTING SECTION– After printing the marker and cutting those patterns, the ready patterns are come to the cutting section of sampling

department. Here, the cutters check the measurements of the patterns and match it with the sample indent.

– The fabrics in small amount are then issued by the storage as per the requirement of sample indent given by the merchant.

– After that the fabrics are kept for 4 hours approximate for fabric relaxation to maintain the dimensional stability of produced garments.

– After that the cutter spread the fabric manually for cutting and placed the pattern on it. The length of the lay will be depending on the no. of patterns and the length of the patterns of a single size of a particular style. The no of lay is depending upon the requirements of buyers. It can be vary from 1 to 20 no. of lays. 20 lays are basically made for the salesman’s sampling.

– After spreading manually, they traced the pattern on that fabric and cut accordingly by using straight knife and round knife. During the cutting, they also cut the notch marks.

– After that the parts will go for sewing.

– The output per day in cutting section is 40 – 50 garment parts / day.

– In the cutting section, DENIM and KNITS (t-shirts) are cut and go for sewing.

– Manpower: 3 Cutters, 4 pattern selector & fabric selector.

– Equipment: 1 Straight knife, 2 Round knives, 26 Lights and 4 Fans.

– MACHINE DETAILS:

NAME MODEL COUNTRY SPEED

Straight Knife TONIY Hong Kong 285 rpm

Round Knife TAKING – 110X Taiwan 300 rpm

SEWING SECTION– When the fabric is cut, the next process is sewing process. For sewing the modular system is

using here. One worker is producing the full garment i.e. He/she is attaching all parts of the garment and only for specialized technique there are other workers to do that particular operation. One worker is producing average 2 – 3 garments per day. Total output of sewing section is 70 – 100 garments / day (approx).

– The numbers of sewing machine are: 40 [34 sewing machines + 6 specialized machines]

Loading plan:– This is a plan given to the sewing dept. for the stitching purpose. According to the loading

plan, the supervisor assigns the jobs to the workers and stitching is done.– After all the operation, the denims are then trimmed and sent to washing department for

washing of garment to get desired shade and style specified by the buyers. After wash the garments are directly come to the sampling department for further process.

– Manpower: 30 workers, 1 supervisor, 1 in-charge.– Equipment: 34 Sewing machines including SNLS, DNLS, FOA, Flat lock and Over-lock; 6

specialized machines, 4 Ironing machines, 102 Lights and 14 Fans.

TRIMMING SECTION

– After washing, the samples are coming to finishing section that is also called as trimming sections. Here the threads are trimmed from the garment. And the rivets, shanks, buttons, tags etc. are attached with the garments. After that, the garments are sent to the inspection area for the quality checking.

– Manpower: 3 Trimmers and 2 Helpers.

QUALITY INSPECTION

– After stitching, the garments are come to the inspection area for stitching quality checking of the garments. The quality checkers inspects the garment and matches it with the sample indent. If there is any problem in stitching or cutting or measurements, they send the garment for remaking. If the sample is ok it is sent for washing.

– After washing, the samples are coming to sampling department for trimming and after that it is sent to inspection area for checking. The checkers check the small detailing about the garment like shade %, measurements etc. 100% checking of the samples are done here.

The quality parameters checked here:•Measurements•Grain line•Sample indent information•Shade•Shrinkage %•Tech pack•The placement of the panels•Pockets, zippers, buttons, rivets, tag etc.•Small details about that particular style.

After all the procedures, the samples are sent to the merchants along with the patterns and whole tech pack and merchants send the samples to the buyers for approval.

Manpower: 6 quality checkers and 6 Helpers.

PURCHASE DEPARTMENT

– Purchase department is the department which gets all the indents from the various departments. Based on these indents the purchase department makes purchases.

There can be two types of indents:

– Non garment indents

– Garments related requisitions

The garment related indents comprise of whatever related to garments. The non-garment indents are related to the non-raw material indents like needles, hardware, etc. These comprise of all machineries of high value and high price electrical woks. But for general consumer items indents need to be raised by stores itself. The indents are raised for fabric and trims, etc for which the buying is done mainly from the buyer nominated supplier. In this case the factory can’t earn enough profit so it tries to do parallel development of raw material so that later on the order can be manufactured in-house. Or else discounts can be taken from the buyer nominated supplier also which the buyer does not know

The things which are kept in mind while placing an order are quality, delivery and price.

– 1. Indents received

– 2. Enquiry generated (quantity etc.)

– 3. Sent enquiry to market (to certain people only when garment)

– 4. Gets quotation

– 5. Check for price, delivery schedules, etc.

– 6. Choose among the different

– 7. Make a call to whom to place the order

Selection of suppliers:

– The selection of suppliers for the purchase of all required goods is done on several bases which are as follows:

– 1. Based on price

– 2. Based on quality

– 3. Based on delivery schedule

– 4. Based on past experience

– 5. Production /supply capacity

Measures taken while confirming the order:

– For an order to be finalized for a certain supplier various criteria are need to be fulfilled which are as follows:

– 1. Comparison of rates between different vendors

– 2. Ensure for best negotiated rates

– 3. Taking sample approval from merchandising dept before confirming order if required

– 4. Preparing PO and approval from Authorized Signatory

FABRIC STORAGE DEPARTMENT

Get the indent from merchant

Get PO preparation from Purchase

department

Receive Rolls from supplier

Physically verify packing

If the rolls are not ok, it will

return to supplier

If the rolls are ok, it will store in the

storage

Cut 1 meter X 1 meter sample from each roll and send it for testing

Inspects received rolls (10 % for AML

& 20% for Non-AML)

If the rolls are not ok, it will

return to supplier

If the rolls are ok, the rolls are accepted.

– OBJECTIVE: to store the fabric systematically for smooth production

– The fabrics are sourcing from Ahmadabad basically. They are sourcing fabric from Arvind Textiles, Raymonds Textiles etc. The objective of the storage is to store the fabric in efficient manner and issue the fabric for cutting. After storing the fabrics in the storage, the QA team inspects the fabric by using 4 point system.

– In 4 point system, a maximum of 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect and no linear yard can be assessed more than 4 points regardless the number of defects within the piece.

Defects in the both the warp and weft and directions will be assigned points under the following criteria:

– 1 point defect: up to 3”

– 2 point defect: > 3” ≤ 6”

– 3 point defect: > 6” ≤ 9”

– 4 point defect: > 9”

For holes and opening (larger dimension)

– 2 point defect: 1” or less

– 4 point defect: > 1”

Calculation of total points / yard:– The fabric quality is evaluated by unit points / 100 sq. yards = (total points in roll X 36 X 100) / (fabric length in

yards X fabric width in inches)

– The fabric which is supplied by Arvind Textiles, the storage department checked 10% of the lots and for non-Arvind fabrics; they checked 20% of the lots. The defect points are also specified by the buyers like for Levis, the average defect acceptance point is 18 points/ 100 sq. yards individually and average defects acceptance point is 14 points/ 100 sq yards (roll wise). For other brands the average DPT is 24 points / 100 sq. yards individually and rolls wise 20 points / 100 sq. yards.

– For storing they are using racks as per the buyer requirements. Like for making Levis garments, the fabrics must be stored in racks. They should keep the stretchable fabric rolls in Pyramid way, so that every part of the roll gets same pressure during storing so that no dimensional instability happens. But, they stored the fabric in crisscross manner. Sometimes, this storing manner creates problems for further processes.

– After storing, the QA team cuts 1 meter X 1 meter fabric samples from each roll and sends the samples for testing. They tests the shrinkage %, shade variation, GSM, CSV (center to selvedge) etc. which is called tapper report and match the information with the merchant indent send by the merchant. As per the requirements they accept and reject the lot. They use sticker system for identifying the accepted and rejected lots. For accepted lot they are using green stickers, for rejected lot they are using red stickers and for moving lot they are using yellow stickers.

TAPPER REPORT:

– The storage department sends 1 X 1 sq. meters of fabric samples to the lab for testing the shrinkage % and shade variation of the swathes. This report is called Tapper Report

Shrinkage Test:

– 1m2 fabric is marked to find out the shrinkage with the help of marker plate in which marking is done at 15, 30 and 45 cms. Then, same samples are stitched together in the form of tube. The tube is sent for washing. After washing the shrinkage is measured.

Shade Test:

– Shade grouping is done. The washed fabric is placed on 45 degree and D65 light source is applied. And then the Shade variation is measured.

– The storage department uses NOW ERP software to track the whole process of storing and fabric inspection.

– Average inspection = 16 rolls/day.

– Average length of the roll = 135 meter

The common fabric defects are:

– Slub

– Weaving defect

– Thick end

– Tail end

– Hole

– Slack yarn

– Stain

– Knots

– Red marks

– Straight marks

– Missing end

– Foreign material

– Miss yarn (pick)

– Stitch

Manpower: 21

Equipments: 4 Computers, 2 AC, 2 Fans and 63 lights.

MACHINE DETAILS:

NAME No of m/cs MODEL NO COUNTRY

Inspection Machine 2 HF1-9H-90 India

TRIMS STORAGE DEPARTMENT

Purchase request from merchant

Purchase order prepared by purchase dept

Material delivery by supplier

Goods recieved at stores after Invoice verification

If OK, entry in inward register

Counting & handover to storage dept Trims card prepared Inspection of recieved

material as per AQL 2.5

If OK, document material approved

Make MRN with location and details are fed in

SAP

– Objective: Buying and storage of trims and issuing them to the finishing dept and sampling department.

– This department is similar to the Fabric storage department but the main difference is that the fabric storage department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing department works for the sourcing of accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the same.

Functions

– Negotiation of prices, quality, delivery place and time with the supplier

– Prepare proposals according to the buyer’s requirement

– Selection of supplier for order

– Co-ordination with the merchandiser, supplier, and finance department

– Store the trims and accessories with approved trim card and issue to the factory departments.

Lead time for Trims and Accessories

– The lead time is divided in two parts:

– Production Lead-time

– Transit Lead-time

– In case of domestic accessories, the production lead-time is 7-10 days and the transit lead-time is 2 days.

– In case of imported accessories, the production lead-time is 3-4 weeks and the transit lead time is

– 7-10 days for air and 20-30 days for sea

QUALITY CHECKINGS– Thread- color, tex, shade against shade card, verify with other boxes.

– Zipper- teeth color, size, tape color, slider shape, slider movement, logo

– Labels- care instructions, size, center out, color, barcode numbers

– Elastic- width, color, holes, stretch ability, shrinkage

– Price ticket- style no, barcode no, size, price, centre out, content

– Buttons- types, holes, shape, logo, color, line/size, M/D test

– Poly Bag- size, caution print, print direction, thickness, print quality, sealing

Quality Indicators: Green - accepted, Red – Rejected

TESTING LABPROCESS FLOW

Functioning of the DepartmentThe laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there are several tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized ones with the buyers and the merchant’s approval.

The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.(i) Fabric sourcing departmentThe fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered later may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production.The list of tests that the sourcing department generally asks for are as follows.•Yarn count •Construction of fabric•Color fastness to washing•Color fastness to crocking•Dimensional stability to washing •Fabric strength (tearing and bursting)•Fabric weight

(ii) Accessory Stores

The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they sampling process starts and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory.

The lists of tests that are generally done for accessories are as follows:•Button breaking test •Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness•Color fastness test for elastics•Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability•Corrugated box

(iii) Merchandising Department:The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as per the buyer specifications. The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like•Type of test•Urgency of the task•Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally•Duration of the tests that has to be carried out•Time required in getting the proper and the required output•Number of samples that has to be tested

Objective: Tests are done on the fabric and trims to know their properties, strength and reaction towards certain chemicals. And send the shade and shrinkage reports to the pattern making section.

PILOT RUN

OBJECTIVE: Purpose of pilot run is to check production techniques and quality requirement.

– The parameters followed here:

– Pilot run is processed in the production line

– All sizes and all colors are included in the pilot quantity

– If pilot run is requested by buyer, quality of the pilot run pieces is checked by buyer QA

– Pilot run pieces are included in bulk quantity in finishing and are sent with the shipment (if there is no variation than the buyer quality specification).

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL DEPARTMENT– The primary objective of the PPC department is to assess the factory’s

capacity for the orders received. When a new order is conceived this department evaluates the capacity after considering all the current orders, and gives a feedback to the marketing/merchandising department whether the order can be fulfilled in the stipulated duration or not.

PPC is mainly concerned with:

– Trims collection details

– Fabric collection details

– Line plan

– Execution of the plan

Records maintained in the department (PPC)

•Production Files: Keeping Records of all relevant details pertaining to an Order, Order Detail Sheet, Specification Sheet (Before wash / after wash), Tech Pack, Trim Cards etc for all Orders. •Samples Movement Register: Keeping record of the movement of original samples in and out of dept. •PP Meeting Register: Keeping Records of Minutes of PP Meeting (Style wise / Buyer wise) •Daily Production Report: Keeping Cutting, Sewing, Washing, and Finishing & Shipment Reports on daily basis. •Monthly Sewing Report: Keeping a Record of Style wise Daily Production on Monthly Report. •Taper Report: Keeping Records of Shrinkage & Shade for each Fabric Sort. •Order Completion Report: Keeping OCRs for all the Orders completed and shipped out.

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Marker Making

Fabric relaxation

SpreadingLabelling

Cutting Numbering

Cut Panel auditing

Knee level marking

Cutting department is the first step to production. After getting the bulk order from the buyers, the fabrics are sourced and kept into the storage. The cutting department then gets the cutting request from the merchant and they send fabric request to the storage department and after that the storage department issues the fabric. The objective of the cutting department is to spread the fabric lays, cut the garment panels according to the marker provided and sort, number and bundle the panels. The major cost of the garment is the fabric, accounting for almost 60% of the total cost so it becomes very essential that actual usage of fabric is slightly controlled by scientific method and procedures. In this department, desired layers are cut using straight knife machines, band knife machines and automatic cutting machines. The number of patterns cut depends upon the length of the fabric lay and making patterns of the layers. Once the cutting operations are finished, immediately the cut parts go to next operations.

Objective: spreading the fabric lays, cut the garment panels according to the marker provided and sort, number and bundle the panels.

MARKER MAKING:

CAD software is used for marker making as well as pattern making. The software used here is Lectra, Astor, and Gerber. Using CAD, grading is also done if required. The patterns are not created here. The sampling department sends the patterns to the cutting department, and with those patterns, the pattern masters in CAD section create the marker. The marker is then made combining patterns of different sizes. Efficiency of the marker changes with the shape of the patterns. After marker making, the plotter give the print out of that marker which is going to use for cutting that particular style. The average efficiency is 85%.

FABRIC REALAXATION:

After issuing the fabric from storage, the rolls are kept in the cutting department in a relaxed way. It is done for the following reasons:To produce quality productTo get the dimension stability of the garment.To avoid the measurement changes after washingRelaxation for the stretch material is for 24hrs.Relaxation of the normal materials is for 10-12 hrs.

SPREADING:

Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting department. A spread or layup is the total amount of fabric required by a single marker. A spread may consist of Single ply or multiple plies the weight of the ply is limited by fabric characteristics, size of the order to be cut, cutting method and vertical capacity of the spreader. End cutters are used for spreading. After fabric relaxation for 24 hours, the fabric is then spread on the table according to the nap direction of the fabric. For denim spreading direction is FOW. The marker is spread over the lay and cutting is done. The laying is done shade wise.

CUTTING:The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine are used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.STEPS:Laying marker, fixing lays with the help of gum tapeCuttingChecking each panel or the bundle of each partRemoving any one piece, checking size and then passingBundling all parts of each sizes togetherPut serial number on each panel with the help of silver mark inkGroup bundle of 20 pieces by using the rubber bands Maintain record of each bundleLoad the bundles for sewing

CUT PART AUDITING:The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, and shade variations etc. that are not within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same number as the rejected ones.NUMBERING:In this dept, all the cut parts are given the style number in series, to avoid the mismatch during sewing and helps in increasing the productionFUSING : Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from the bundle. The fusing material is cut according to the size of the components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time. Fabric is fused to the fusing layer at the temperature of 700 C. fusing machine has two rollers. First roller is heated 710 C and back roller at 700 C. the fabric is passed through the machine and fabric get fused. The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re bundled.

EMBROIDERY:This operation is optional, only for the certain style and if the buyer asks for it. The capacity of this machine is 18 pieces at once. For embroidery, they take a panel of the style where the embroidery needed, basically in back pockets. Then they attach the panel to the frame. Frame size may vary from 9 to 45 sizes (9, 15, 18, 21, 45 sizes) as per the buyer’s requirements. The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for embroidery as stated in the production process. Blocks of panels are sent for embroidery, which are re-cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched together temporarily before dispatch for the embroiderySORTING:The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.BUNDLING: The pieces are then ticketed as per the numbering of the cut parts and make a bundle of cut parts and put it on the racks. Then the bundles are sent to the sewing department for further processes.

MACHINES USED IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

Straight Knife Band Knife

Round KnifeDriller

Fusing MachineLoop making Machine

EmbroideryEnd cutter

Roll making

SEWING DEPARTMENT

OP1

OP2

OP3

OP1

OP2

OP3

OP1

OP2

OP3 Racks

LINE 1 LINE2 LINE 3

BASIC LAYOUT OF A SEWING LINE

After receive the garments components from cutting section, all the garments parts are joined and sewn as sequentially according to the buyer specification. Sewing section is the most important department of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations.

OBJECTIVE: To sew the garments according to the styles given by the buyer.Sewing is the most crucial part of any garment industry. Cut components are assembled in sewing department in assembly line. List of sub-processes those are done in sewing department includes. •Making garment parts •Sewing full garment •Checking of stitched garments •Alteration work of defective garments

In Arvind sewing department, proper quality aspects are kept into consideration in order to produce quality products as required by the customers. Shop floor consists on total 14 lines producing denims of different styles for various buyers. Among these fourteen lines, four lines are combined to make two lines in order to produce specific styles (LEVI’S) for specific buyer. Both automatic and manual machines are being used in the industry. Machines like SNLS, DNLS, over locks, AUTO-J, Loop Setter etc are used.

Production System Followed •Progressive Bundling System. •This unit has one production floor totally having 14 lines of production. •Capacity: The production unit has a capacity of 12,000-15,000 pieces per day •Each batch has approx. 45-65 workstations and machines apart from button sewing, button sewing, and folding machines. •During the process of garment making there exists two types of checking, they are: •In-process Checking. •End line Checking- Here there exist both AQL audit and normal checking.

FUNCTIONING:The production floor does production in two types: •Once during pilot production where they have to produce about 250 – 500 garments for the new which is sent to the buyer to check the workmanship and production skills of the factory. •Bulk production •The production floor receives the details as below:- •The style or the garment, •Number of operators required, •The batch for which the style has to be installed, •Any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style, •Target for each day •Breakup of the production quantity

MANPOWER Operators: 670 sewing operators Helpers: 52 helpers End line and in line checkers: 44 Supervisors: 15 Asst. Supervisors; 4 Production manager: 2 Factory manager: 2 IE Executive: 4 IE head (Production): 1 NUMBER OF MACHINES There are approximately 700 machines used in production floor. Allotment of sewing and other Machines are done as per requirement. Different types of machines are given below.

Garment analysis

Target setup for production

Machine lay out

Operator lay out

Quality control of product

Line balancing Line set up Process

distribution

Parts received from cutting deptPart sorting

Parts distribution to the operator

and helper

Position mark to components

where required

Parts making

WORKING PROCEDURE OF SEWING DEPARTMENT

NAME MODEL NO. OF MACHINES

SNLS Brother / Juki 140

DNLS Brother / Juki 58

DOUBLE NEEDLE SPLIT BAR Brother / Juki 53

SNEC Brother / Juki 31

SNCS Juki 16

DNCS Juki 15

FOA Vibimac / Juki 43

3T O/L Juki 19

5T O/L Juki 47

AUTO LOOP Kansai Special 12

AUTO J- STITCH SUPREME 9

BAR TACK Brother 30

KEY HOLE Kansai Special 15

WAIST BAND M/C Kansai Special 16

BOTTOM JUKI 15

FLAT LOCK Kansai Special 14

BOTTON HOLE Brother 3

BOTTON SEWING Brother 4

HEM Brother 4

DECO STITCH Juki / Brother 4

POCKET SET JUKI 11

PATCH ATTACHMENT JUKI 4

MACHINE DETAILS

STEPS MACHINES

BACK

Divide cut parts. Manually

Attach back yoke Feed off the arm

Back rise Feed off the arm

Back pocket hem KANSAI

Ironing Manually or Automatic

Attach back pocket SNLS

Top stitch on back pocket SNLS

Side serging 3 Thread O/L

Attach Label SNLS

FRONT

Front rise serging 3 Thread O/L

Stay stitch at crotch SNLS

Edge stitch on fly SNLS

J-Stitch Auto - J

Front rise top stitch SNLS

Coin pocket hem KANSAI

Attach pocket to facing DNLS

Attach pocket to facing 5 Thread F/L

Attach scoop pocket DNLS

Close pocket bag SNEC

Top stitch on pocket bag SNLS

Top edge stitch SNEC

Side serging 3 Thread O/L

ASSEMBLY

Inseam FOA

Out seam FOA

Bottom hem SNLS

Top stitch SNLS

Waistband attachment DNCS

Top stitch on waistband SNLS

Key-hole KANSAI

Bar tack BARTACK M/C

Loop attachment Automatic

OPERATIONAL BREAKDOWN OF A LINE

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Style Analysis Make Operation Breakdown

SAM CalculationThread

Consumption Calculation

Select Machine and Equipment

Arrange Guides and Attachment

Prepare Line Layout

Setting Line when new style is loaded

Objective of Industrial Engineering:The prime objective of Industrial engineering is to increase the productivity by eliminating waste and non-value adding (unproductive) operations and improving the effective utilization of resources.To establish methods for improving the operations and controlling the production costs. Functions of an Industrial Engineer:Developing the simplest work methods and establishing one best way of doing the work.Establishing the performance standards as per the standard methods (Standard time).Develop the cost reduction and cost control programmers.To establish standard costing system.Responsibilities of IE:Though the Time study and Motion study are the most common & important function of Industrial engineer, some other responsibilities are:Layout planning.Observing Production flow system.Deicide the machines & attachments for all styles. Observing & improving the operator performance.Operator training.Production control system.Quality control. Benefits of IEWork SimplificationIncreased ProductivityIncreased ProfitsMost IE tasks are aimed to make better work flow, improve utilization of resources, increasing factory performance, and reducing production cost.

MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

Some of the functions of the maintenance department are:

– Care of the fittings

– Adjusting settings

– Oil changing

– Graph maintenance

– Outward/inward reports

– Needle weekly reports

– Machine and Equipment checking

– Needle log cards

WASHING DEPARTMENT

Objectives of Washing:

– To develop softness in garments

– To give a vintage look to the garment

– To introduce fading/used effect

– To create new styles and thus a change in fashion

– To satisfy the customer needs and wants

– To make the garments shrink to the maximum

We have basically two departments in washing:

– Dry

– Wet

MANPOWER AND MACHINE DETAILS:MANPOWER•No of washing operators: 12 per shift •No of checkers: 4 per shift •No of quality checkers in after was zone: 6 per shift •No of supervisors: 2 •No. of persons in chemical store: 2 •No of washing manager: 1 •Administrative staff: 2 MACHINERY•No. of washing machines (front load) : 4 (500 kg) •No. of drying machines: 6 (200 kg) •No. of washing machines (top loading) : 1 (200 kg) •No. of hydro extractor: 35(100 kg) •No. of sample washing machines : 2 (25 kg) •No. of Sample hydro extractor: 1 (25 kg) •No of drying sample machine: 1 (25 kg)

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

– Finishing is the last process of the garment production. After wash, the garments are sent to the finishing department.

– Objective: to add on value to the garments and give the final touch to the garment.

PROCESSES IN FINISHING

– Cut Plastic on Labels: The plastic pouches wrapped over labels attached to the garment so as they do not catch any color bleed while washing of the garment are cut and removed.

– Thread trimming: Extra threads that are left on the garment while sewing are trimmed off.

– Trim Belt Loops: Long lengths of belt loops are often left on the garment while the automatic machine attaches them on the waistband. These extra lengths are manually trimmed off using trimmers to a suitable length.

–Pocket cleaning: Pockets are upturned and are brushed off any dirt, or stone dirt that may be resided inside the pocket.–Measurement Checking: All measurements are checked once more so as to ensure there is no deviation from the required specification due to post-wash shrinkage.–Alteration: If any measurement is found inappropriate and it is correctable, it is sent for alteration on the same floor. Measurement is again checked and then sent for the further processes.–Attachment of metal trims (except zipper): Rivets and shank buttons are attached to the garment on different machines.–Pressing: Ironing is done often by steam press. Those garments, whose specification is not to use a press, are set on the topper which removes the wrinkles out of the garment.–Final Checking: A final check is further done so as to assure the quality specifications, trims attachment, quality of stitching, measurement specifications and other features that may have been left out during previous inspections.–Sticker Attachment: Hangtags are attached as per the size of the garment. Garments are folded and are segregated size and color wise.–Final inspection: after pressing, the garments are sent for the final inspection where the measurements, wash checking (mainly shade checking) is done.

PACKAGING

– Objective: To pack the garment as per the buyer requirement for shipment.

– Packaging means wrapping, compressing, and filling of goods for the purpose of protection of goods and their convenient handling.

Material used for packaging:

– Paper and cardboards:

– These materials are very cheap but have very little strength as compared to other packaging material except glass. Paper cannot pack liquid material. However they provide opportunity to present article in colorful & attractive way. It can protect the contents from moisture to some extent.

IMPORTANCE OF PACKAGING:

Needle Detection: All the garments are passed through metal detector machine as it is mandatory quality specification.Match book: After final inspection, the trims like tags, stickers etc are attached Fold the garments properly then and send to the packing department.Physical protection: Protection from mechanical shock, vibration, electrostatic discharge compression, temperature.Barrier protection: A barrier from oxygen water vapor, dust etc.Information transmission: Packages and labels communicate how to use, transport, recycle or dispose of the package or product.Marketing: Can be used by marketers to encourage potential buyers to purchase the product.Security: Packaging can play an important role in reducing the security risks of shipment. Convenience: Packages can have features that add convenience in distribution, handling, stacking, display, sale, opening, reclosing, use, dispensing, reuse, recycling, and ease of disposal.

CONCLUSIONDuring the course of the internship, we have studied the whole

industry in details and gone in depth through every department. The views which we had about an apparel industry and the

details which we had studied in college have changed a lot by the end of the internship. Denim being a very different fabric from

shirting or suitings, go through an absolutely different treatment, which we people were fortunate enough to study and learn

REFERENCE• Apparel Manufacturing Handbook

• www.wikipedia.com• Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysis- Ruth E. Glock &

Grace I. Kunz. •Technology of Clothing Manufacture- Harold Carr & Barbara Latham

• Apparel Manufacturing Handbook- Jacob Solinger. • Managing Quality in the Apparel Industry –PV Mehta

• www.online clothing study.com • Daily production reports of sewing department and my own data

analysis and observation – Arvind apparels ltd.