Artemisa & Mayabeque Provinces%47 / pop 885,544

Why Go?Leap-frogged by almost everyone on an organized ‘itin-erary,’ Cuba’s two smallest provinces, created by dividing Havana province in half in 2010, deal with more everyday topics – like growing half of the crops that feed the nation, for example. But in among the patchwork of citrus and pineapple fields lie a smattering of small towns that will satisfy the curious and the brave. The most interesting corner is Las Terrazas and Soroa, Cuba’s most successful eco-project and an increasingly important nexus for trek-king and birdwatching; while, east of Havana, Jibacoa’s beaches are the domain of a small trickle of Varadero-avoiding tourists who guard their secret jealously.

Wander elsewhere and you’ll be in mainly Cuban com-pany (or none at all) contemplating sugar plantation ruins, weird one-of-a-kind museums, and improbably riotous festi-vals. For a kaleidoscope of the whole region take the ridicu-lously slow Hershey train through the nation’s proverbial backyard and admire the view.

When to Go¨¨ The provinces’ big attractions vary considerably climate-

wise. Because of their unique geographical situation, Soroa and Las Terrazas have a microclimate: more rain and minimum monthly temperatures 2°C to 3°C colder than Havana.

¨¨ As it gets hotter later here than elsewhere in the region, February through May is the optimum time to visit, being warm without being significantly wet.

¨¨ April sees the provinces’ premier festival, the International Humor Festival in San Antonio de los Baños.

¨¨ December through April is best for the beaches at playa Jibacoa.

Best Hiking¨¨ La Rosita (p158)

¨¨ Sendero La Serafina (p160)

¨¨ El Contento (p160)

¨¨ parque Escaleras de Jaruco (p165)

Best Swimming¨¨ Baños del San Juan (p161)

¨¨ Salto del Arco Iris (p158)

¨¨ Baños del Bayate (p161)

¨¨ playa Jibacoa (p163)

Artemisa Province ......................155San Antonio de los Baños ....................155Artemisa ....................156Soroa ..........................158Las Terrazas ...............159Bahía Honda & Around ........................162Mayabeque Province ......................163Playa Jibacoa Area .....163Jaruco .........................165Surgidero de Batabanó ................... 166

©Lonely¨Planet¨Publications¨Pty¨Ltd

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