Apparel manufacturing process

Apparel ProductionOverview

Khushboo Priyambada

Introduction

Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great range of raw

materials, product types, production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and associated

technologies.

Companies range from small family business to multinationals.

The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.

Introduction to Garment Manufacturing

Merchandising department

Sampling department

Trims and accessories

store department

Spreading & Cutting

department

Sewing department

Washing department

Finishing & Packaging

departmentMaintenance Department

Finance and Accounts

DepartmentHR/Admin

Department

Departments in garment manufacturing unit

Process flow in garment manufacturing unitBuyer-

Supplier Meeting

Production order placed

Sampling

BOM generation

for po

Raw material

procurement

Raw material

inspectionFabric

washingPre

production sample

ProductionShipment

sample

Finishing Packing Shipment

Merchandising department

Process flow in merchandising department Receipt of

the techpack

BOM draft for

sampling Pattern making

Raw material

procurement

Raw material

inspection

Proto sample

development

Getting approval on proto sample

Fit sample making

Getting the fit

sample approved

BOM draft for

production

Approval sample

developmentOrder

approved for

production

Getting approvals on size set

samples

Raw material

procurement

R aw material

inspection

GPT/FPT to

conform to

standards

Approval on pre

production sample

Order file transferred to the

production

department

Follow up with the

production

department

Send shipment samples to the buyer

Follow up with the

production

department till

delivery

Responsibilities of a merchandiserMerchandiser

Internal & external communication

Sampling

Preparing internal order sheets

Accessories & trims

Preparing purchase orders

Getting approvals on lab dips and bit looms

Advising and assisting production and quality department

Mediating production and quality departments

Helping documentation

Taking responsibility for inspections

Giving shipping instructions and following shipment

Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-apparel-industry1.asp

Sampling department

Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.

Checking pattern’s workability.

Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.

Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC.

Minimizing operations and consumption.

Responsibilities of sampling department

Types of sample prepared

• This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.• Design development is either done by buyer or factory• The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.

Design development

• Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory based on proto sample .

• Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with the style.

• It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and then checked on the dress form.

• The buyer may make the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details etc.

Proto sample

• Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and for approval of construction details.

• The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk production or sample yardage fabric is used.

Fit sample

• In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for photo shoot sample.

• Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.

Photo shoot sample

• The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.• In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need

to be used.• This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends

upon this sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.

Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample

Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609

• The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the sample in all sizes

• 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.Size set sample

• The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to ensure the performance of the garment.

• GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as buyer.

• The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.

GPT sample (Garment Performance Test)

• PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.• It has to be made in original fabric and trims• Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual.• PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be

identical to PP sample.• The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of

preproduction sample.

Pre- production sample

• Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric after washing. Wash sample

• The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing line.

• In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.• Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.

TOP sample (Top of Production)

• Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual shipment and sent to buyer.

• The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.

Shipment sample

Types of sample prepared

Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609

Fabric store department

Functions of the fabric store department

Receive the fabric as per BOM

Fabric inspection (four point system)

Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour fastness etc.)

Issue to the production department as per the requirement

10% random inspection for sampling or lining or net

fabric.

Inspection for production order fabric as per buyer’s

requirement.

Perform GSM cutting.

Perform shrinkage test.

Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.

Check fabric roll for the defects.

Allocate points to the defects.

Fabric audit procedure

The fabrics are checked for:

Width

Shade (centre to se

lvedge)

Weaving defects

Shrinkage (st

eam & fusing)

Trims and accessoriesStore department

Functions of the trims and accessories department

To receive incoming material.

To check material for attribute & variables.

To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.

To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production & other material

as per requirement.

To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.

Spreading andcutting department

Spreading and cutting flow process

Planning Spreading Cutting Preparation for sewing

Planning

Spreading

Cutting

Preparation for sewing

Spreads

Markers

Production

Manual

Machine

Machine

Manual

Ticketing

Bundles

Spreading and cutting flow process

Planning

Spreads Markers Production

It translates customer orders into cutting orders

minimize total production costs

meet deadlines

seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space

Cut order planning

Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning

Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability

Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making

Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed

Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization

Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and personnel

Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

Cutting orders leads to

Marker planning Lay planning

The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut

planning.

The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and

shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.

One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.

A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.

Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.

Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:

table length,

type of equipment,

spread length,

spreading time and

cutting time.

Marker planning

Marker

is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes

to be cut from a single spread.

Marker making

is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified

style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)

Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.

By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low

as possible.

It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These

include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such

as drill holes and notches.

Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save or

waste thousands of dollars a year.

Marker making

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005

Markers types: Blocks or Sections

Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the

pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.

Continuous Continuous markers contain all the pattern

pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting.

Marker making

Block or section marker

Continuous marker

Markers types:

Open marker

Marker made with full pattern pieces.

Closed marker

Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit).

Marker making

Closed marker

Marker making

Manually produced Computerized marker making (CAD)

Manual marker Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply

Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.

Time consuming.

Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)

Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.

Marker making

Accurate

Shortest response time.

Direct or digitized.

Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no omissions

Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the computer.

Can be printed/recalled/modified.

Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement.

Computerised markerMarker making

Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way

The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is

made with every pattern placed with the “down”

direction of the pattern in the same direction.

This mode is necessary for fabrics that are

asymmetric.

All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the “down”

direction, which is usually toward the left edge

(starting point where the legend is written).

The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but

least efficient of the three nap directions for a marker.

Marker making


Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way

The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is

made where there is no restriction of which way the

pattern are oriented.

The patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”,

placed wherever they fit best, only making sure that

the patterns are on-grain.

The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most

efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization.

Marker making


Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down

The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D)

is more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way marker,

but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way

marker.

In order to get a better fit between the patterns,

alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in

opposite directions.

This method is yields moderately good fabric

utilization, and good quality.

Marker making


Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100% Total area of the marker plan

It is determined for fabric utilization

Minimum waste

Marker Efficiency

Marker making

Factors affecting marker efficiency

Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc.)

Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces – less flexibility)

Grain requirements

Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting

table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process

Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker

Spreading

Requirement of spreading

Shade sorting of cloth pieces

Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability

Alignment of plies

Correct ply tension

Elimination of fabric faults

Avoidance of distortion in the spread

Spreading equipment

Spreading surfaces ( table, pin

table, vacuum table)

Spreading machines

Spreading equipment

Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)

Spreading machines

Spreading

Spreading

Manual Machine

In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from

its package which, if it is a roll, may be

supported by a frame and carried along the

table where the end is secured by weights

or by clamps.

The operators work back from the end,

aligning the edges and ensuring that there

is no tension and that there are no wrinkles.

Manual spreading

Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from end to

end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time on the

spread.

Spreading machines may include:

A motor to drive

A platform on which the operator rides

A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the ends of

ply in place

A ply counter

An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge guides

A turntable

A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the

speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in the fabric

being spread.

Machine spreading

Spreading Mode

Nap one way & face one way spreading

Nap either way & face to face spreading

Nap one-way face to face spreading

Nap either way & face one way spreading

Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading

Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.

Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two spreading operators

(thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking along both sides of cutting table.

While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the

rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.

Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come back to starting

position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of spreading machine is called

as “dead heading”

Spreading

Face one way Nap one way

Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005

Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face spreading

The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.

Difficult to achieve manually.

The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in place by catcher, at

layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held by another catcher while the fabric

is being laid by the machine during it’s return movement also.

Spreading

Face to face

Nap either way


Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading

Most time consuming method of spreading.

The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table

thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.

At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and

return back to starting position without.

Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.

Spreading

Face to face

Nap one way


Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading

The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table

thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.

At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and start

spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one way. There is no dead heading

by the machine in this spreading mode.

Spreading

Nap either way

Face one way


Labour cost

Fabric waste

Splicing loss

End loss

Width loss

Spreading costs

Spreading

Cutting

room

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39889719@N08/4254214139/

Cutting

CuttingManualScissors

MachinePortable cutting knivesStraight knife

Round knife

Stationary cuttersBand knife

Die cutting

Servo cutting

Plasma cutting

Water jet

cutting

Laser cutting

Position markersNotchers

Drills and thread markers

Cutting

Scissors

Manual cutting

Straight knife

Power system

Cutting blade

Blade guard

Handle

Up and down movement

Sharpening

Base plateRound knife

One way thrust as the circular blade makes contact with the fabric

Cutting

Portable cutting knives

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Vertical blade

Reciprocates up and down

Corners and curves can be cut accurately

Most versatile and commonly used

Blades length - 6 to 14 inches

Spread depth depends on blade length &

adjustable height of the blade guard

All of the pieces cut from a lay are

identical

CuttingPortable cutting knives

Popular, light and fast.

Suitable only for cutting in straight lines

or very gradual curves, in depths of

about 15cm

Larger blade cuts up to 2" of soft or

bulky material, or lower lays of harder

material such as shirts

Small blade cuts single layer

A round blade contacts the spread at

an angle; thus, the top ply is cut before

the bottom ply

Straight knife Round knife

Cutting Stationary cutters: Band knife Contains a narrow, sharpened, endless steel band

Fabric layers are guided by hand against the blade

Air cushion is provided below the fabric layers

Plies are stapled together to prevent slippage

Used for precision cutting to a depth of up to 300mm

Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions are cut

precisely

Band knives are more accurate for small blocks or for

shaving small amounts off pre-cut blocks

Overhead servo motor

Adjustable speed

Suspension system that

supports the knife perpendicular

to the cutting table

Knife is mounted on a swivel arm

It combines vertical cutting and

band knife cutting into one

machine

Cutting Stationary cutters: Servo cutting

Cutting

Dies are pre – shaped metal outlines

Most accurate

Die cutting operation involves

Placement of fabric

Positioning the die on the fabric

Engaging the machine to press the die

into the fabric

Used mainly for leather, coated and laminated

materials

Areas where the same patterns are used over

a long period, e.g. collar, pocket flaps

Stationary cutters: Die cutting

Cutting

Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)

Faster cutter of single plies

High engineering and cost issues

Problems – same as for laser cutting

Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)

Faster cutter of single plies

High engineering and cost issues

Stationary cutters: Plasma cutting

Cutting

Very high velocity, fine stream of water

High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears the fibers on impact

As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum decreases and cutting

ability is reduced frayed edges

Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting quality

Leather, plastic, vinyl

High equipment costs

Stationary cutters: Water jet cutting

Cutting

Notches can be cut by straight knife too but

accuracy is required

Specialized notching equipment provides

greater accuracy because a guide lines up the

notcher with the cut edge

Hot notcher consists of a heating element

(blade) that slightly scorches the fibers adjacent

to the notch (thermoplastic fibers)

Two types of notches:

Straight notch and V-notch

Position markers: Notchers

Cutting

Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a hole and spirit

level

Used for reference markers needed away from the edge of a

garment part, e.g. position of pockets, darts, etc.

A hole is drilled through the lay

Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains visible until the sewing

operator comes to use it

Loose weave – hot drill is used which slightly scorches or fuse

the edges of the hole Hypodermic (or dye spot) drill – leaves small deposit of paint on each ply of fabric

ALL drill holes must eventually be concealed by the construction of the garment

Position markers: Drills and thread markers

Preparationfor sewing

Ticketing Bundles

Ticketing Tickets carry details : style no, size,

ply no, bundle no., date issued

Operations may be incorporated for

payment purposes, control of work

and facilitating quality control

Preparation for sewing

Preparation for sewingBundling Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a

controlled way

Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.

If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is done

Order no. 6015

Bundle no. 1430

Quantity 12

Style no. 3145

Size 12

Section collar

Bundle ticket consists of :

Sewing department

Sewing process flowCut parts

received from the cutting

room

Bulk production

beginsIn line

inspection

End line checking

Button-button hole/ bartack

Rough checking Ironing

Final checkingMeasurement checking

Tagging PackingQA audit by the buying

house

Ex - factory

Sewing departmentSewing department

Production system Seams and stitches

Production systemMake through system

Conventional bundle system

Clump system

Progressive bundle system

Flexible flow system

Straight line system

Synchro flow system

Unit production system

Modular manufacturing system

Production system: Make through system It is the traditional method of manufacture in which an operator makes right through

one garment at a time.

Sewing department

Source: ApparelKey.com

Production system: Conventional bundle system

Sewing machines are arranged in lines.

The work flows from the central (store) area to the first

machine, from the first machine back to the store, and

then on to the next machine, and so forth.

A distributor stationed at the store is responsible for

receiving and dispatching the work.

The work in progress is in the form of bundles.

These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or a bag, or

the garment parts may be wrapped and tied.

Sewing department


Production system: Clump system

A worker collects a clump of materials from the

worktable and carries out the first operation.

After he has completed his part of the work, he

returns it to the table.

A worker for the second operation then continues the

work and so on.

The process is ' collection - work -return' continues

until the whole garment has been assembled.

Sewing department


Production system: Progressive bundle system

Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.

Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties

the bundle and passes it to the next operator.

There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for

storing the inter-process work between each

operation.

The work is routed by means of tickets.

This system is the most widely used system in the

garment industry today. It is used in shirt factories,

jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.

Sewing department


Production system: Flexible flow system A section of sewing operators, each with a supply of work in

a rack at the side, work at an engineered work place.

The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of work

can be planned using the correct number of operators in

sequence.

For style A garments, the work distributed after operation 1

can be distributed to the two operators performing

operation 2. On completion, the work from both workers is

then sent to operator 3. After operation 3, the work is

continued by the two operators performing operation 4 and

so on.

When a new style is to be loaded on to the system, the

number of operators needed for each operation must be

planned in detail to ensure a balanced output.

Sewing department


Production system: Straight line system

The manufacturing process is broken down into several

operations, which take the same time to complete.

Groups of operators are required to handle only

individual garments.

The garment parts pass from one operator to the next,

until the garment has been completely made up by one

group of operators.

The central distribution unit may be a fixed table or a a

conveyor belt (its speed will be set to suit the cycle

time).

Sewing department


Production system: Synchro flow system

Garment parts of the same size and color are

processed separately.

Different garment parts can be processed

simultaneously for assembling.

At the same time, collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, etc.,

from other lines also go down a central line.

The different garment parts are then processed

together to form completed garments.

Sewing department


Production system: Unit production system

A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.

It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move individual

units from work-station to work station for assembly.

All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by

means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.

Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier.

Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling, tying and

untying, and manually moving garment parts.

Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and inventory

data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for prompt

decision.

Sewing department


Production system: Modular manufacturing

system

Modular manufacturing groups operators into teams,

or modules.

The team works on one/a few garment at a time

instead of a bundle of garments.

The operators stand /sit at their stations and rotate to

different machines as they work, becoming familiar

with multiple steps in producing the garment.

Sewing department


Seams and stitches

Sewing Machine

Throat plate

Stitch regulator

Presser footNeedle guard

Take-up lever

Reversing leverNeedle

Tension discs/check-spring

Thumb-nut screw

Needle bar

Machine bed

Thread-guides

Throat plate

Presser Foot

Feed Dog

Needle

Needle Bar

Needle Eye

Sewing Machine

Sewing Machine

Stitch forming devices

Stitch Device used

Lock stitch Bobbin hook

Chain stitch Looper

Over lock Looper and spreader

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

Sewing Machine


The bobbin of a lock stitch machine

Sewing MachineMachine beds

Raised bedFlat bed


Cylinder bed Feed of arm

Sewing Machine


Machine beds

Sewing Machine

Post bed


Machine beds

Seams & Stitches Garments are shaped and formed in three ways:

materials molded to a form,

fabric pieces cut to shape and assembled by bonding, and

pieces cut to shape and sewn.

For the purpose of standardization of stitch and seam formations, the U.S government

developed a guide that defines stitches and seams in current use. The United States Federal

Stitch and Seam Specifications (Federal Standard 751a) were adopted in 1965.

The British Standard BS 3870: Schedule of Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings was also

developed about the same time.

The Federal Standard 751a have been replaced by ASTM D 6193, Standards Related to

Stitches and Seams.


ASTM D 6193 gives the following definitions:

A stitch is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.

A seam is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.

A stitching consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for ornamental purposes or

finishing an edge or both.

Seams & Stitches


The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.

To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or characteristics closely

allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.

The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type together with the

correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and end-product is of paramount

importance.

Seams & Stitches


Seams

Strength: a seam must be strong. Strength is usually measured in two directions: across the

seam (lateral or transverse strength) and along the seam (longitudinal strength).

Extensibility

Durability: A seam must be durable, long-lasting and not abrade or wear easily during

everyday use of the garment

Security: a seam needs to be secure and not unravel during everyday use of the garment

Appearance properties: the ideal seam should join pieces of fabric in an unobtrusive and

efficient manner with no discontinuity in physical properties or appearance.

Balance

Seams & Stitches


Physical properties of seam

Seams & Stitches

Superimposed seam

Lap seam

Bound seam

Flat seam

Edge finishing

Superimposed seam

Bound seam

Lap seam

Flat seam

Edge finishing


Classification of seams

Stitch properties

Stitch size has three dimensions: length, width, and depth.

Stitch length is specified as the number of stitches per inch (spi) and can be an indicator of

quality. High spi means short stitches; low spi means long stitches. Generally, the greater

the spi, the more the holding power and seam strength.

Stitch width refers to the horizontal span (bight) covered in the formation of one stitch or

single line of stitching. Stitches that have width dimensions require multiple needles or

lateral movement of thread carriers such as the needle bars, loopers or spreaders.

Stitch depth is the distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch. It is a

factor for blind stitches.

Seams & Stitches Stitches

Stitch classification is based on structure of the stitch and method of interlacing.

Seams & Stitches


Stitch classification

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses

101 Class One thread Basting, or light construction

103 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming

104 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming

100 Class stitch: Single thread chain stitch

Using one needle thread and one blind looper

Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/100cl.htm

Seams & Stitches Stitch classification




202 Class One Thread Basting, tacking or repairs

205 Class One Thread Pick stitch - topstitching

200 Class stitch: Single thread hand sewn stitch

Using one needle thread

http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/202cl.htm





301 Class Two threads Seaming multiple plies

304 Class Two thread Zig-zag stitch; a stretch lockstitch

306 Class Two thread Blind stitch

315 Class Two threads Three step zig-zag

300 Class stitch: Two or more thread lock stitch

Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread








401 Class Two threadsSeaming multiple

plies with moderate stretch

404 Class Two threads Topstitching or seaming with stretch

406 Class Three threads"Bottom cover stitch;

a (greater) stretch chain stitch

400 Class stitch: Multi-thread chain stitch

Using one or more needle threads and one or more looper threads







501 Class One thread One needle over edge stitch for serging / “blanket stitch"

502 Class Two thread One needle over edge stitch for serging

503 Class Two thread Over edge stitch for serging with crossover on edge of fabric

504 Class Three thread Over edge stitch for serging and light seaming

500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch

Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)







500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch

Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)


512 Class Four Thread Mock safety stitch for seaming with wide bite and greater stretch for knits

514 Class Four Thread Over edge stitch for seaming with wide bite and greater stretch for knits

515 Class Four Thread True safety stitch for seaming with good stretch for wovens and knits

516 Class Five Thread True safety stitch for seaming with good stretch for wovens and knits




602 Class Four thread Cover stitch or seaming knits

605 Class Five thread Cover stitch

607 Class Six thread Wide cover stitch

600 Class Stitch: Multi-thread cover stitches




Quality department

Responsibilities of quality department To impart quality in the product.

To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.

To restrict the defects entering into the final product.

Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.

Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw materials, partially

finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to

some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring the garments to

check if they meet the required measurements.

Quality department

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Inspection

Detection of defects

Feedback of these defects

to appropriate personnel

Determination of causes of

defects

Correction of defects

Quality departmentPrinciple of inspection (inspection loop)


No inspection

100% inspection

Spot checking- inspecting random shipments

Arbitrary sampling-10% sampling

Statistical sampling or acceptance sampling-flexibility with regard to the amount of

inspection to be performed

Quality department How much to inspect ?


Sample: A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a lot or batch, the

units of the sample being selected at random without regards to their quality. The number

of units of a product in the sample is the sample size.

Lot or batch: Means ‘Inspection lot’ or ‘Inspection Batch’, that is a collection of units of a

product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected.

Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product in a lot or batch

Percent defective = Number of defectives × 100

Number of units inspected

Quality department Inspection terms


Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item

to be second.

Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as a second either

because of severity or location.

Second: A ‘Second’ is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the saleability or

serviceability of the item.

Quality department Identification of defects


Possible Pattern Defects:

Pattern parts missing

Mixed parts

Patterns not facing in the correct direction

on napped fabrics

Patterns not all facing in the same

direction on a one-way fabric

Patterns not aligned with respect to the

fabric grain

Line definition poor

Quality department Spreading defects

Skimpy marking

Generous marking

Marker too wide

Not enough knife clearance

freedom

Mismatched checks and stripes

Notches and drill marks omitted,

indistinct, or misplaced


Frayed edges

Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges

Ply-to-ply fusion

Single-edge fusion

Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut

Notches

Drills

Quality department Cutting defects


Needle Damage

Feed Damage

Skipped stitches

Thread breaks

Broken stitches

Seam grin

Seam pucker

Quality department Sewing defects

Pleated seams

Wrong stitch density

Uneven stitch density

Staggered stitch

Improperly formed stitches

Oil spots or stains


Incorrect or uneven width of inlay

Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line

Insecure back stitching

Twisted seam

Mismatched checks or stripes

Mismatched seam

Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through the seam

Reversed garment part

Blind stitching showing on the face side

Wrong seam or stitch type used

Wrong shade of thread used

Quality department Seaming defects


Finished components nor correct to size or shape or not symmetrical.

Finished garment not to size

Parts, components, closures or features omitted

Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned

Interlining incorrectly positioned

Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment, twisted,

Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness

Garment parts shaded

Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction

Mismatched trimming

Quality department Assembly defects


Open seams

Skipped stitches

Cracked stitches

Stitches/inch

Uneven seams

Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams

Needle and feed cuts

Unclipped threads and Long ends

Raw edge

Quality department Checks for final inspection

Snaps, fasteners, buttons

Labels

Elastic

Measurements

Mends or repairs

Stripe

Hems

Trim

Broken needle

Distortion


The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling inspection

can be considered satisfactory as a process average.

The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer indicates will be

accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be used.

Quality department AQL: Accepted quality level


Sample size code letters

Lot or Batch Size Sample size code letter

2 to 8 A

9 to 15 B

16 to 25 C

26 to 50 D

51 to 90 E

91 to 150 F

151 to 280 G

281 to 500 H

501 to 1200 J

1201 to 3200 K

3201 to 10000 L

10001 to 35000 M

Quality departmentAQL: Accepted quality level

Sampling PlansSample Size Code

LetterSample

Size Acceptable Quality Level 2.5 4 6.5 10 Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re

A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 4F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22 21 22M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22 21 22

Quality department AQL: Accepted quality level

Finishing and packaging department

Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look.

In this department each garment undergoes different finishing processes.

It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment free

from defects.

Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.



Thread cutting: Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed garments.

Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut threads.

Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains:

Seam ironing: Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables with vacuum boards.

Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing equipments.

Finishing and packaging department Operations performed at finishing stage

Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains


Tagging and packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and packing section. It

is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagging operators with

the appropriate price and brand tags. He also instructs the tagging operator as to where

and how the tag has to be placed. The most important thing to be kept in mind while

placing the tag is to match the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag.

The step after the tagging is to pack the garments as per the specification of the buyer.



Operations performed at finishing stage

Presentation checking and cartoon packing

It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers check the

packed garments for the following things:

Poly bags are as per specification.

Tags and price stickers are as per specification.

Packing is secured or not if specified.

Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.

Hangers are there or not if specified.

Garment has been folded as per specification etc.





Presentation checking and cartoon packing

Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following things

are kept in mind during carton packing:

Number of garments to be packed in one carton.

Ratio asked for example S:M:L=2:1:1

Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified.

Closing the cartons with cello tape.

Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.

Writing on carton information like: Store or buyer name, buyer's address, ratio, net

weight of the carton etc.


Thank you

Apparel manufacturing process

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