A Report on Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports · A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian...
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A Report on
May 2017
Submitted to:
Ministry of Textiles,
Govt. of India
Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports
Submitted by:
Northern India Textile Research
Association, Ghaziabad (U.P)
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 1
INDEX
S. No. Topic Page No.
1. Objectives 3
2. Executive Summary 4
3. Introduction 9
4. Literature Review 15
5. Methodology 23
6. Results and Discussion 25
7. Best Practices 85
8. Conclusions and Suggestions 104
9. Annex
i. Questionnaires used in the study 109
ii. List of garment units studied 117
iii. Style pictures 119
10. S & T Benefits 131
11. Financial Position 131
12. Implementation Letter from Industry 132
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Acknowledgement
We express our sincere thanks to Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India for
sponsoring the project “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” to
NITRA.
We are extremely grateful to all garment manufacturing units of NCR,
Bengaluru, Tirupur, Ludhiana and Indore, who have participated in this study
and provided us important information and access to work practices. Without
their support, it would not have been possible to carry out this project.
We also place on record the contribution made by Ms. Vijya Bharti, Mr.
Abhishek Raj, Mr. Shanu, and Mr. Anshul Singh, students of NIFT-Chennai
and NIFT-Mumbai in conducting the study in some of the units of Tirupur and
NCR.
We also acknowledge the efforts of Mr. Shiv & Mr. Punit, Project Officers of
NITRA and Mr. Jaswant Singh Yadav, STA in conducting the study and
compilation of report.
Vivek Agarwal
Shweta Saxena
Kushagra Prakash
M. K. Bansal
M.M.Tiwari
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OBJECTIVES AS STATED IN THE PROPOSAL
The objectives of the project are:
1. To reduce spreading loss and cutting efficiency;
2. To develop process-wise benchmarks for sewing operations
3. To suggest techniques for waste minimization and improve efficiency of
various departments.
Deviation made from original objectives if any, while implementing the project
and reasons thereof : No
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EXECUTIVE
SUMMARY
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
India’s textile and clothing industry is one of the mainstays of the national
economy. It is also one of the largest contributing sectors of India’s exports
worldwide. In the global exports of clothing, as per the UN Comtrade, 2014
data released in November 2015 India is ranked as 2nd
largest Textile &
Clothing exporter globally with US$ 38.6 billion while in clothing exports
India was ranked 5th
largest exporter amongst all the exporting countries with
US$16.5 billion worth of clothing exports. China, Bangladesh, Italy, Germany
and Vietnam are the other major exporters of clothing. [3]
India’s competitiveness in the international markets has to be viewed from an
angle different from the availability of cheap labor and raw materials. Rather
than low wage competitiveness, it has to be higher productivity
competitiveness, with greater emphasis on quality improvement and improved
productivity through creation of a modern, efficient, better organized and
competitive industry in place of a traditional one[2].
Studies conducted by various researchers in the past have highlighted that
productivity of Indian garment industry is much lower as compared to
countries like Vietnam and China.
0
2000
4000
6000
8000
10000
12000
India China Vietnam
5169
10799
5567
3238
7576
5042
Cotton -
Spinning, Weaving
& Finishing
Cotton - Garment
Textiles & Garments - Cotton
La
bo
r P
rod
uct
ivit
y
(US
$ /
Em
plo
yee)
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Therefore there is an urgent need to improve the productivity levels to enhance
competiveness in international markets.
In view of above a comprehensive study was conducted in 50 units/styles in
four major garment manufacturing/export clusters namely NCR, Bengaluru,
Tirupur and Ludhiana between January 2016 and December 2016.
The study covered all major departments like fabrics, layering, cutting, sewing,
finishing and packing. Data was captured through discussions with
departmental heads and structured questionnaires.
In all the 4 clusters, significant variation in productivity and work practices was
observed in all the departments.
Spreading losses were found to be varying between 1cm and 10cms. Major
reasons for this variation were absence of markings on the laying table or
operator not following those markings i.e. operator negligence and
carelessness. To overcome this problem and reduce spreading losses, operator
should be made aware of the importance of fabric; proper monitoring of layer
mans should be done and end cutter machine should be used. The use of the
end cutter machine will ensure that the lay is cut exactly at the position it
should be cut.
In case of Bengaluru and Tirupur it was found that most of the units were
segregating fabric according to shade and width which help them to minimize
fabric losses due to width variation. However this practice was found to be
missing in many of the units of NCR and Ludhiana.
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It was observed that team of 3-4 layerman (especially in case of knitted fabrics
with longer marker lengths) gives significantly higher laying productivity.
Therefore to improve the cutting room efficiency team of 3-4 layerman should
be engage for longer marker length. Productivity can be further improved by
using fabric unwinding stands and laying stands as discussed in the Chapter on
“Best practices”. For units having high production capacities, use of CAM can
also be considered.
End bit management is an important aspect of improving fabric utilization and
cutting room efficiency. Work practices like end bit storage bins (as discussed
in Chapter on “Best practices”) should be considered for better fabric
utilization and traceability. This will also reduce garment rejection.
Operation-wise SAM values were collected for two major product categories-
Men’s Formal Shirt and Knitted Polo shirt. Considerable variations were
observed in timings between units making knitted polo shirts. This variation
can be attributed to operator skills and difference in sizes. In case of Men’s
Formal shirt, difference in timings was negligible as most of the units were
using latest technology machines and attachments.
These timings will help the garment manufacturers to assess their sewing
operations and improve their sewing time.
Significant variations in finishing department comprising of process like thread
trimming, spotting, pressing and packing were observed in all the four clusters.
This can be attributed to variation in style, fabric, operator skill and work
practices.
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Several innovative work practices in fabric store, laying, fusing, sewing and
finishing were observed in many garment units. These have been elaborately
discussed in chapter on “best practices”.
To conclude by improving/adopting better work practices, it is possible
improve productivity of various departments in a garment unit.
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Chapter No.- 1
INTRODUCTION
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INTRODUCTION
India’s textiles sector is one of the oldest industries in Indian economy dating
back several centuries. Even today, textiles sector is one of the largest
contributors to India’s exports with approximately 11 per cent of total exports.
The textiles industry is also labour intensive and is one of the largest
employers. The textile industry employs about 40 million workers and 60
million indirectly. India's overall textile exports during FY 2015-16 stood at
US$ 40 billion
The Indian textiles industry is extremely varied, with the hand-spun and hand-
woven textiles sectors at one end of the spectrum, while the capital intensive
sophisticated mills sector at the other end of the spectrum. The decentralised
power looms/ hosiery and knitting sector form the largest component of the
textiles sector. The close linkage of the textile industry to agriculture (for raw
materials such as cotton) and the ancient culture and traditions of the country in
terms of textiles make the Indian textiles sector unique in comparison to the
industries of other countries. The Indian textile industry has the capacity to
produce a wide variety of products suitable to different market segments, both
within India and across the world.
Market Size
The Indian textiles industry, currently estimated at around US$ 108 billion, is
expected to reach US$ 223 billion by 2021. The industry is the second largest
employer after agriculture, providing employment to over 45 million people
directly and 60 million people indirectly. The Indian Textile Industry
contributes approximately 5 per cent to India’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP),
and 14 per cent to overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP).
The Indian textile industry has the potential to reach US$ 500 billion in size
according to a study by Wazir Advisors and PCI Xylenes & Polyester. The
growth implies domestic sales to rise to US$ 315 billion from currently US$ 68
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billion. At the same time, exports are implied to increase to US$ 185 billion
from approximately US$ 41 billion currently.
Indian exports of locally made retail and lifestyle products grew at a compound
annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10 per cent from 2013 to 2016, mainly led by
bedding bath and home decor products and textiles. [1]
Garment Manufacturing Process:
Stepwise garment manufacturing sequence is given below.[2]
:
Design / Sketch
↓
Pattern Design
↓
Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting/Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
↓
Inspection
↓
Pressing/ Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing
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Operations of Garments manufacturing are given below in details
SL
No.
Operation Job Method
01 Design/Sketch It is given by buyers to
manufacturers containing sketches
including measurements of
particular styles
Manual/
Computerized
02 Basic Block Basic block is an individual
component of garments without any
style of design (without Allowance,
Style, Design)
Manual/
Computerized
03 Working
Pattern
When a pattern is made for a
particular style with net dimension
regarding the basic block along with
allowance then it is called working
pattern.
Manual/
Computerized
04 Sample
Garments
To make a sample, this will be
approved by buyer. After making a
sample, it is sent to buyer for
approval to rectify the faults
Manual
05 Approved
Sample
After rectify the faults, sample is
again sent to buyers. If it is ok then ,
then it is called approved sample
Manual
07 Production
Pattern
Making allowance with net
dimension for bulk production
Manual/
Computerized
08 Grading If the buyer requires different sizes,
so should be grade as S, M, L, XL,
XXL
Manual/
Computerized
09 Marker
Making
Marker is a thin paper which
contains all the components for
different sizes for a particular style
of garments
Manual/
Computerized
10 Fabric
Spreading
To spread the fabrics on table
properly for cutting
Manual/
Computerized
11 Cutting To cut fabric according to marker
dimension
Manual/
Computerized
12 Sorting &
Bundling
Sort out the fabric according to size
and for each size make in individual
bundles
Manual
13 Sewing To assemble a full garments
Manual
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14 Ironing &
Finishing
After sewing we will get a complete
garment which is treated with steam
ironing & also several finishing
processes are done for example
extra loose thread cutting
Manual
15 Inspection Should be approved as initial
sample
Manual
Need for this Study:
1 Fabric Utilization:
Fabric is 50-60% of the total cost of the garment. Hence even a small saving in
fabric utilization will not only result in increased profits but will also reduce
wastes. In general, factories purchase fabrics more than the actual requirement
and hence a lot of it ends as “dead stock”. Further, fabric that is issued to the
production departments is also not properly utilized.
Even with CAD, there have cases been reported of improved marker efficiency,
the spreading loss of 2-3% is never considered to optimize the fabric
utilization. Such small savings in fabric utilization significantly affect the cost
of production of high fashion garments as the fabrics used for such garments
are very expensive.
2 Sewing Room Efficiency:
Sewing constitutes about 60% of the total cost of manufacturing and increase in
sewing room productivity by 5-10% will result in significant reduction in
overall manufacturing cost thereby improving cost competitiveness.
Productivity levels in countries like China, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Vietnam
are about 50% more as compared to India.
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In India, it has been observed that productivity for the same product across
clusters and between factories within a cluster vary significantly depending
upon the technology and work practices followed. Developing benchmarks for
products manufactured in a cluster would help in comparing the performances
of different factories.
Finishing:
Finishing is the last step in garment production and all errors that happen in the
preceding processes accumulate in finishing and have to be corrected at this
stage.
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Chapter No.- 2
LITERATURE REVIEW
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LITERATURE REVIEW
India’s textile and clothing industry is one of the mainstays of the national
economy. It is also one of the largest contributing sectors of India’s exports
worldwide. In the global exports of clothing, as per the UN Comtrade, 2014
data released in November 2015 India is ranked as 2nd
largest Textile &
Clothing exporter globally with US$ 38.6 billion while in clothing exports
India was ranked 5th
largest exporter amongst all the exporting countries with
US$16.5 billion worth of clothing exports. China, Bangladesh, Italy, Germany
and Vietnam are the other major exporters of clothing. [3]
According to a study conducted by the World Bank, D&B Analysis 2014, most
of the Indian firms in the Textiles (Weaving/Knitting & Processing) &
Garments Sector are still in the Stage I of the competence protocol and
targeting basic conveniences & cleaning up of operations to achieve
competitiveness. Their efforts are made towards cost reduction (raw-material &
logistics being the most prominent), increasing labour productivity, ensuring
compliance to quality norms and engaging in continuous quality improvement
efforts. Some of the aspects in Stage I like energy conservation, clean & safe
working environment, etc. are still to be looked up as measures for
competitiveness.
Amongst the competing countries, China has already crossed the first stage and
has managed to fare well in the next stage as well with optimized capacity
utilization and system improvements. Vietnam, although still in Stage I of the
competency protocol has been able to tackle most of the issues like labour
productivity, controlling costs, etc. The Italian & Japanese counterparts have
already crossed the stage II and their focus is on total improvement in systems
& business processes by achieving total quality enrichment.
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India’s competitiveness in the international market, therefore, has to be viewed
from an angle different from the availability of cheap labor and raw materials.
Rather than low wage competitiveness, it has to be higher productivity
competitiveness, with greater emphasis on quality improvement and improved
productivity through creation of a modern, efficient, better organized and
competitive industry in place of a traditional one[2].
India has the components of a vital and internationally competitive apparel
industry and a strong and efficient garment manufacturing base with ability to
offer scale, flexibility, service and a full range of apparels is able to secure a
much larger share in the global market. However, to achieve this vision, India
needs to establish a system by which Indian textile manufacturers might
benchmark productivity, quality and overall performance against one another
and eventually against international competitors.
FACTORS AFFECTING THE COMPETITIVENESS OF INDIAN
GARMENT INDUSTRY
Cost Structure
Margins can be improved either by increasing sales prices, or by reducing
costs. As prices in real terms for many of the industry’s staple products have
eroded over many years, the focus has long been on reducing costs. Competing
countries‟ (China & Vietnam) competitive advantage vis-à-vis Indian in terms
of costs is presented in the charts below:
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 18
Figure – 2.1
Source: Enterprise Surveys (http://www.enterprisesurveys.org), The World
Bank, D&B Analysis
India stands poorly against China and Vietnam with respect to the raw material
costs, energy costs, interest costs and logistics costs. However, India has an
advantage over Vietnam in terms of the labour costs as evident from the above
chart.
Although, both India and China have very competitive labour costs, yet they
have been rising in the recent years. Industry experts believe that labour costs
in China are increasing, on a yearly basis, and according to China’s “12th Five
Year Plan” the salaries will continue increasing by 13% annually in order to
stimulate domestic purchasing power. The rising labour costs in China
therefore are expected to lower the competitiveness of Chinese Textile &
Garments industry over time.
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70% 61%
7%12%
1% 2%6%
59%
3%
10%
0 1%4%
52%
3%
27%
2% 1%4%
India
China
Vietnam
Cost
Breakup
(As a %
of total
sales)
Cost Structure - Textiles & Garments
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Productivity
Labour Productivity is the measure taken for benchmarking the productivity of
Indian textile & garment industry vis-à-vis competing countries. Labour
productivity has been estimated as a ratio of Gross value added (GVA) to the
number of workers. Higher labour productivity of competing countries (China
& Vietnam for Cotton and Japan for manmade fibre) is one of the sources of
competitive advantage over India, as shown in the chart below.
Figure – 2.2
China is emerging as the leader in labour productivity in cotton textiles &
garments with labour productivity almost double that of India & Vietnam.
China, in-spite of having almost four times labour force than India has higher
labour productivity owing to higher gross value added (which is almost eight
times that of India). India has been able to match up with Vietnam in Cotton
spinning, weaving & finishing process but is lagging behind in garments.
0
2000
4000
6000
8000
10000
12000
India China Vietnam
5169
10799
5567
3238
7576
5042
Cotton -Spinning, Weaving & Finishing
Cotton - Garment
Textiles & Garments - Cotton
Lab
or
Pro
du
ctiv
ity
(US
$ /
Em
plo
yee
)
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 20
Previous Studies:
An extensive survey was commissioned by the German Technical Cooperation
(GTZ) in association with Okhla Garment and Textile Cluster (OGTC),, and
Methods Apparel Consultancy was chosen to analyze current systems and
advise ways to improve overall competitiveness.
Based on the data collected in the survey, it states that the following major
areas require immediate attention:
Technical skills availability
The need for first-time quality
A reduction in throughput time
Lower WIP
Better management and supervision
Development of team work
Lower absenteeism
Lower labour turnover
Innovation and technology up-gradation
Another survey was conducted in the NCR Region in the months of November
and December 2007. The firms selected covered a wide range of products and
fall within the following parameters.
Orders in excess of 2000 pieces
200 to 1000 operators,
Have some operators on the company payroll,
Willing to share management cost information
The survey included an analysis of the production department, the personnel
involved and potential savings in an average factory.
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All the key departments were analyzed and rated keeping the world-class
standard as a benchmark. All the managers and supervisors were assessed and
rated to establish where training would be most effective.
Status of Apparel manufacturing SMES in the NCR Region- Surveys
conducted by Methods Apparel Consultancy
The analysis is based upon the survey conducted by the Methods Apparel
Consultancy. Ten factories were rated and 300 people were assessed during the
surveys in November-December, 2007 commissioned by the Garment
Technical Cooperation (GTZ) in association with Okhla Garment and Textile
Cluster (OGTC) to analyze current systems and advise ways to improve overall
productivity. The survey was done in two parts, the first analyzing the factory
and the second evaluating the personnel. A comprehensive checklist was
developed which covered every department and each point on the checklist was
awarded a value of 1 to 5 points, 5 being considered an International
benchmark. The points awarded were added and a percentage score was
calculated. Priorities for improvement for each department were established.
Upgrading the Indian garment industry: a study of three clusters
This paper examines the process of upgrading of the Indian garment industry
through a survey of 100 firms in three clusters in Delhi NCR, Tirupur, and
Mumbai, in 2012. Upgrading could be of three types: Process, Product or
Functional. Product upgrading entails producing higher value added products
and involves steps taken to upgrade product quality, introduction of new fabrics
and raw materials, and reduction in reworking rates. Process upgrading occurs
through the incorporation of more sophisticated technologies in production and
/or reengineering. Process upgrading takes place through use of new production
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 22
machinery, workers training, reduction in delivery time, total quality programs,
introduction of new organizational approaches, improvements in the production
process and increased usage of computer programs for business purposes.
Functional upgrading involves moving to higher value functions and occurs
through design, marketing and branding. Moreover, most value addition occurs
in this stage of production. Most firms surveyed reported upgrading. Product
upgrading is reported to be the lowest, followed by functional and process.
Process upgrading is highest in the category both (firms which are exporting
and also sell domestically), in Mumbai and among the medium sized firms.
Product upgrading is highest in the export category, in Delhi NCR and in the
medium sized firms. Little or no upgrading is reported by domestic firms,
mostly in Delhi NCR and in large firms. Functional upgrading is highest in
exporters, in Delhi NCR and the medium sized firms. The governance structure
of the value chain determines functional upgrading. Discriminate analysis has
been used to identify the variables that differentiate between the three groups,
clusters, size and orientation. Reduction in reworking rates, introduction or
improvements in total quality programmes, increased use of computer
programmes and internet for business purposes and new production machinery
are the most important predictors of upgrading among Mumbai, Delhi and
Tirupur. New production machinery is most important predictor of upgrading
between firms catering to the Domestic market and Both (i.e. exporting as well
as supplying to the export market).
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 23
Chapter No.- 3
METHODOLOGY
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METHODOLOGY
The study was conducted using a combination of quantitative and qualitative
research methods.
Detailed structured questionnaires were prepared to collect information from
various departments like fabrics stores, layering and cutting, sewing and
finishing. A copy of the questionnaires is given in Annex-1.
Work practices were also studied and captured through pictures and videos,
wherever possible.
Four leading garment export/manufacturing clusters namely National Capital
Region (NCR), Bengaluru, Tirupur and Ludhiana were selected for the study.
A total of 50 units/styles were studies in these clusters. Cluster-wise details are
as follows:
NCR - 23 units/styles
BENGALURU - 8 units
TIRUPUR - 10 units
LUDHIANA - 9 units/styles
Cluster-wise list of units covered in the study is given in Annex-2.
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Chapter No.- 4
RESULTS
&
DISCUSSIONS
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RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
CLUSTER : NCR
Total No. of Units Covered: 23
Profile of Units Studied:
a. 8 units were more than 20 years old while the remaining 15 units
were less than 20 years old.
b. 20 units studied were export units while 3 were involved in both
export and domestic garment business.
c. 15 units were involved in manufacturing of both woven and
knitted garments while 3 units were manufacturing only woven
garments and 5 were manufacturing only knitted garments. Major
products manufactured are Ladies, and Kids Wear.
d. Normally working hours varied between 8 to 10 hours/day.
e. 8 units were employing only salaried workmen, while the
remaining 15 were employing both salaried and contractual
workmen.
f. No. of sewing machines varied between 150-1550. Capacity
Utilization varied between 40% and 89%. Actual garment
production varied between 900- 22,000 pieces/day. (Refer Fig-
4.1, 4.2 and 4.3).
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 27
Figure 4.1: No. of Sewing Machines
Figure 4.2: Capacity Utilization (%)
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
1800
NC
R 1
NC
R1
NC
R 2
NC
R 3
NC
R 4
NC
R 5
NC
R 6
NC
R 7
NC
R 8
NC
R 9
NC
R 1
0
NC
R 1
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NC
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NC
R 1
3
NC
R 1
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NC
R 1
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NC
R 1
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NC
R 1
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NC
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NC
R 1
9
NC
R 2
0
NC
R 2
1
NC
R 2
2
NC
R 2
3
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
NC
R 1
NC
R 2
NC
R 3
NC
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NC
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NC
R 6
NC
R 7
NC
R 8
NC
R 9
NC
R 1
0
NC
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NC
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R 1
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R 1
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9
NC
R 2
0
NC
R 2
1
NC
R 2
2
NC
R 2
3
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 28
Figure 4.3: Actual Production/ Day
Department-Wise Observations:
1 Fabric Deptt:
i. All the 23 units were following 4-point system for fabric
inspection.
ii. The units were maintaining fabric inventory between 20 days
and 1 year.
iii. Out of 23 factories, 18 units were using ERP for fabric issue
while the remaining 5 were doing it manually.
2 Layering & Cutting:
i. Time studies are conducted on styles manufactured from
woven and knitted fabrics by manual layering process.
ii. Significant variation between Marker length and actual Lay
length was observed during the studies. The extent of
variation was between 1cm and 10 cms. This can be attributed
to poor work practices.
iii. It was observed that, laying productivity varies significantly
with respect of type of fabric laid (solid/stripes/checks/prints)
0
5000
10000
15000
20000
25000
NC
R 1
NC
R 2
NC
R 3
NC
R 4
NC
R 5
NC
R 6
NC
R 7
NC
R 8
NC
R 9
NC
R 1
0
NC
R 1
1
NC
R 1
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NC
R 1
3
NC
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NC
R 1
5
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R 1
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NC
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R 2
0
NC
R 2
1
NC
R 2
2
NC
R 2
3
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 29
and marker length and operator skills. (Refer Fig. 4.4 and
4.5).
iv. In cutting, studies were conducted mainly on Straight Knife
machine. There was a wide variation in operator productivity
between the units. No. of garment cut /cutting team/hour
varied between 40-294. (Refer Fig. 4.6). Major reasons of
variation were type of fabric being cut, operator skill and
capacity utilization.
Figure 4.4 : No. of Layers/team/ hr (Solid fabric)
Figure 4.5 : No. of Layers/team/ hr (Printed fabric)
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
<3 meters 3-5 meters 5-7 meters
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
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100
<3 meters 3-5 meters 5-7 meters
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 30
Figure 4.6: No. of Garments Cut/ person/hr
3 Sewing:
i. Key performance parameter in sewing department is SAM
(Standard allowed minutes) for any given style.
ii. There are several factors that affect SAM. Major among them
are type of garment and style, type of fabric, use of
attachments, operator skill (measured in terms of efficiency)
and material handling systems/techniques.
iii. SAM values varied between 5 min to 76.8 min. Major reasons
for this variation was differences in the style, work practices
and operator skill. (Refer Fig-4.7)
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
NC
R 1
NC
R 2
NC
R 3
NC
R 4
NC
R 5
NC
R 6
NC
R 7
NC
R 8
NC
R 9
NC
R 1
0
NC
R 1
1
NC
R 1
2
NC
R 1
3
NC
R 1
4
NC
R 1
5
NC
R 1
6
NC
R 1
7
NC
R 1
8
NC
R 1
9
NC
R 2
0
NC
R 2
1
NC
R 2
2
NC
R 2
3
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 31
Figure 4.7: SAM/ Garment
4 Finishing and Packing:
i. Major activities covered under finishing are thread trimming,
initial inspection, spotting, pressing, final inspection and
packing. Large variation in productivity was observed in all
these areas.
ii. In case of thread trimming, worker productivity/hr varied
between 15 and 51 pieces (Refer Fig-4.8). This variation was
largely due to style variation and degree of thread trimming
required in the garment
iii. In case of pressing, worker productivity/hr varied between 7
and 60 pieces. (Refer Fig-4.9). This variation was largely due
to variation in style, size, operator skill and work practices.
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
NC
R 1
NC
R 2
NC
R 3
NC
R 4
NC
R 5
NC
R 6
NC
R 7
NC
R 8
NC
R 9
NC
R 1
0
NC
R 1
1
NC
R 1
2
NC
R 1
3
NC
R 1
4
NC
R 1
5
NC
R 1
6
NC
R 1
7
NC
R 1
8
NC
R 1
9
NC
R 2
0
NC
R 2
1
NC
R 2
2
NC
R 2
3
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 32
Figure 4.8 : No. of Garments Trimmed/person/hr
Figure 4.9 : No. of Garments Pressed/person/hr
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
NC
R 1
NC
R 2
NC
R 3
NC
R 4
NC
R 5
NC
R 6
NC
R 7
NC
R 8
NC
R 9
NC
R 1
0
NC
R 1
1
NC
R 1
2
NC
R 1
3
NC
R 1
4
NC
R 1
5
NC
R 1
6
NC
R 1
7
NC
R 1
8
NC
R 1
9
NC
R 2
0
NC
R 2
1
NC
R 2
2
NC
R 2
3
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
NC
R 1
NC
R 2
NC
R 3
NC
R 4
NC
R 5
NC
R 6
NC
R 7
NC
R 8
NC
R 9
NC
R 1
0
NC
R 1
1
NC
R 1
2
NC
R 1
3
NC
R 1
4
NC
R 1
5
NC
R 1
6
NC
R 1
7
NC
R 1
8
NC
R 1
9
NC
R 2
0
NC
R 2
1
NC
R 2
2
NC
R 2
3
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 33
CLUSTER : BENGALURU
Profile of Units Studied:
a. 4 units were more than 15 years old while the remaining 4 units
were less than 15 years old.
b. Out of 8 units studied 5 units were export units, 3 were doing both
domestic and export.
c. All the units specialize in manufacturing of woven garments. Major
products manufactured are Men’s Shirts and Trousers.
d. Working hours were found 8 hours/day in all the units
e. No contractual workers were found in any unit studied except
security. All were employing salaried workmen.
f. No. of sewing machines varied between 300- 1040. Capacity
Utilization varied between 84% and 98%. Actual garment
production varied between 3,500- 11,000 pieces/day. (Refer Fig
4.10, 4,11 and 4.12)
Figure 4.10 : No. of Sewing Machines
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 34
Figure 4.11 : Capacity Utilization (%)
Figure 4.12 : Actual Production/ Day
Department-Wise Observations:
1 Fabric Deptt:
i. All the 8 units were following 4-point system for fabric
inspection.
75
80
85
90
95
100
BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
0
2000
4000
6000
8000
10000
12000
BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 35
ii. The units are maintaining fabric inventory between 1 week
and 2 month.
iii. All the 8 units were using ERP for fabric issue.
2 Layering & Cutting:
i. Time studies are conducted on styles manufactured from
woven piece dyed, stripes and check fabrics by manual as
well as machine layering process.
ii. Marginal variation between Marker length and actual Lay
length was observed during the studies. The extent of
variation was between 0.5cm and 1cm which is very
insignificant and can be attributed to good work practices.
iii. Layering team consists of 2 persons irrespective of marker
length and type of fabric, whether it is dyed, printed or
checks. No. of Layers/team/hr varies between 24 and 41
for marker lengths between 5-6 meters. (Refer Fig. 4.13)
iv. In cutting, studies were conducted on manual and CAM
cutting machine both. Manual machine consisting of
straight knife and band knife cutting machines. There was
a wide variation in operator productivity between the
units. No. of garment cut /cutter/hour varied between 100-
150 (Refer Fig.4.14). The variation can be attributed to
type of fabric cut, lay height and work practices in
different units.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 36
Figure 4.13: No. of Layers/team/hr
Figure 4.14 : No. of Garments Cut/person/hr
3 Sewing:
i. Key performance parameter in sewing department is SAM
(Standard allowed minutes) for any given style.
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 37
ii. There are several factors that affect SAM. Major among
them are Style, Type of fabric, use of attachments,
operator skill (measured in terms of efficiency) and
material handling systems/techniques.
iii. SAM values varied between 24 min to 32 min. (Refer Fig.
4.15). Major reasons for this variation were differences in
the type of sewing machines, style, work practices,
material handling equipments and operator skill. Details
operation-wise SAM is given in table No.- 5.
Figure 4.15 : SAM/ Garment
4 Finishing and Packing:
i. Major activities covered under finishing are thread
trimming, initial inspection, spotting, pressing and final
inspection. Large variation in productivity was observed in
all these areas.
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 38
ii. In case of thread trimming, worker productivity/hr varied
between 20 and 37 pieces. (Refer Fig. 4.16). This variation
was largely due to style variation and degree of thread
trimming required in the garment.
iii. In case of pressing, worker productivity/hr varied between
44 and 56 pieces. (Refer Fig. 4.17). This variation was
largely due to variation in style and size.
Figure 4.16 : No. of Garments Trimmed/Person/hr
Figure 4.17: No. of Garments Pressed/Person/hr
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 39
CLUSTER : TIRUPUR
Profile of Units Studied:
a. 6 units were more than 20 years old while the remaining 4 units
were less than 20 years old.
b. All the units studied were export units.
c. All the units specialize in manufacturing of knitted garments.
Major products manufactured are Men’s and Kids T-shirt and
Polo shirt.
d. Normally working hours varied between 8 to 12 hours/day.
e. 4 units were employing salaried workmen, 3 of the units were
employing contractual workmen while the remaining 3 were
employing both salaried and contractual workmen.
f. No. of sewing machines varied between 57- 550. Capacity
Utilization varied between 60% and 90%. Actual garment
production varied between 1,000- 9,000 pieces/day. (Refer Fig
4.18, 4.19 and 4.20).
Figure 4.18 : No. of Sewing Machines
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 40
Figure 4.19 : Capacity Utilization (%)
Figure 4.20: Actual Production/ Day
Department-Wise Observations:
1 Fabric Deptt:
i. 8 units were following 4-point system for fabric inspection
while the remaining 2 are not following any internationally
accepted scientific system.
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
0
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
6000
7000
8000
9000
10000
TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 41
ii. The units are maintaining fabric inventory between 1 week
and 1 month.
iii. Out of 10 factories, 8 are using ERP for fabric issue while the
remaining 2 were doing it manually.
2 Layering & Cutting:
i. Time studies are conducted on styles manufactured from
Single Jersey and Pique knitted fabrics by manual layering
process.
ii. Significant variation between Marker length and actual Lay
length was observed during the studies. The extent of
variation was between 1cm and 10 cms. This can be attributed
to poor work practices.
iii. It was observed that, for marker length upto 5 meters, a
layering team consists of 2 persons while for marker length
more than 5 meters, the team consisted of 4 persons. In case
of single jersey fabrics, it was observed a team of 4 persons in
marker lengths longer than 5 meters improves the laying
productivity significantly (Refer Fig. 4.21). No such pattern
was observed in case of Pique fabrics.
iv. In cutting, studies were conducted mainly on Straight Knife
machine. There was a wide variation in operator productivity
between the units. No. of garment cut /cutter/hour varied
between 27- 94. (Refer Fig. 4.22). Major reasons of variation
were type of fabric being cut, operator skill and capacity
utilization.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 42
Figure 4.21: No. of Layers/team/ hr
Figure 4.22: No. of Garments Cut/ person/hr
3 Sewing:
i. Key performance parameter in sewing department is SAM
(Standard allowed minutes) for any given style.
ii. There are several factors that affect SAM. Major among them
are Style, Type of fabric, use of attachments, operator skill
(measured in terms of efficiency) and material handling
systems/techniques.
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
4 persons/team marker length >5m
2 persons/team marker length <5m
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
TIR-2 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 43
iii. SAM values varied between 10 min to 19.5 min. Major
reasons for this variation was differences in the style, work
practices and operator skill. (Refer Fig-4.23) Details
operation-wise SAM is given in table No. -6.
Figure 4.23: SAM/ Garment
4 Finishing and Packing:
i. Major activities covered under finishing are thread trimming,
initial inspection, spotting, pressing and final inspection.
Large variation in productivity was observed in all these
areas.
ii. In case of thread trimming, worker productivity/hr varied
between 18 and 64 pieces (Refer Fig-4.24). This variation was
largely due to style variation and degree of thread trimming
required in the garment
iii. In case of pressing, worker productivity/hr varied between 21
and 70 pieces. (Refer Fig-4.25). This variation was largely
0
5
10
15
20
25
TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 44
due to variation in style, size, operator skill and work
practices.
Figure 4.24: No. of Garments Trimmed/person/hr
Figure 4.25 : No. of Garments Pressed/person/hr
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 45
CLUSTER : LUDHIANA
Total No. of Units Covered: 9
Profile of Units Studied:
a. 6 units were more than 20 years old while the remaining 3 units
were less than 20 years old.
b. 7 units studied were domestic units, 1 unit was involved in both
export and domestic and 1 unit was involved in garment exports
only.
c. All the 9 units were involved in manufacturing knitted garments.
Major products manufactured are Men’s, Ladies, and Kids Wear.
d. Out of 9, 8 units were working 8 hrs/day while 1 unit was
working double shift of 8 hrs.
e. All the units were employing only salaried workmen.
f. No. of sewing machines varied between 200-3500. Capacity
Utilization varied between 21% and 93%. Actual garment
production varied between 2,000-70,000 pieces/day. (Refer Fig
4.26, 4.27 and 4.28)
Figure 4.26: No. of Sewing Machines
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
LDH 1 LDH 2 LDH 3 LDH 4 LDH 5 LDH 6 LDH 7 LDH 8 IDR 1
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 46
Figure 3 : Capacity Utilization (%)
Figure 4: Actual Production/ Day
Department-Wise Observations:
1 Fabric Deptt:
i. All the 9 units were following 4-point system for fabric
inspection.
ii. The units were maintaining fabric inventory between 15
tonnes and 216 tonnes.
iii. Most of the units are ERP system for fabric issue.
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
LDH 1 LDH 2 LDH 3 LDH 4 LDH 5 LDH 6 LDH 7 LDH 8 IDR 1
0
20000
40000
60000
80000
100000
120000
140000
160000
LDH 1 LDH 2 LDH 3 LDH 4 LDH 5 LDH 6 LDH 7 LDH 8 IDR 1
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 47
2 Layering & Cutting:
i. Time studies are conducted on styles manufactured from
knitted fabrics by manual layering process.
ii. Significant variation between Marker length and actual Lay
length was observed during the studies. The extent of
variation was between 4cm and 10 cms. This can be attributed
to poor work practices.
iii. In general, a layering team consists of 3 persons. It was
observed that, for marker lengths 5-6 meters, layering
productivity/team varies between 15-30 layers/team/hr while
for marker length between 7-9 meters productivity/team
varies between 24-60 layers/team/hr. (Refer Fig. 4.29).
iv. In cutting, studies were conducted mainly on Straight Knife
machine. There was a wide variation in operator productivity
between the units. No. of garment cut /cutting team/hour
varied between 87-173 (Refer Fig. 4.30). Major reasons of
variation were type of fabric being cut, operator skill and
capacity utilization. \
Figure 4.29: No. of Layers/team/hr
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
3-5 meters 5-7 meters 7-9 meters
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 48
Figure 4.30: No. of Garments Cut/ person/hr
3 Sewing:
i. Key performance parameter in sewing department is SAM
(Standard allowed minutes) for any given style.
ii. There are several factors that affect SAM. Major among them
are type of garment and style, type of fabric, use of
attachments, operator skill (measured in terms of efficiency)
and material handling systems/techniques.
iii. SAM values varied between 12.5 min to 23 min. Major
reasons for this variation was differences in the style, work
practices and operator skill. (Refer Fig-4.31)
Figure 4.31: SAM/ Garment
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
400
450
LDH 1 LDH 2 LDH 3 LDH 4 LDH 5 LDH 6 LDH 7 LDH 8 IDR 1
0
5
10
15
20
25
LDH-1 LDH-2 LDH-3 LDH-4 LDH-5 LDH-6 LDH-7 LDH-8 IDR-1
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 49
4 Finishing and Packing:
i. Major activities covered under finishing are thread trimming,
initial inspection, spotting, pressing, final inspection and
packing. Large variation in productivity was observed in all
these areas.
ii. In case of thread trimming, worker productivity/hr varied
between 21-43 pieces (Refer Fig-4.32). This variation was
largely due to style variation and degree of thread trimming
required in the garment.
iii. In case of pressing, worker productivity/hr varied between 35
and 53 pieces. (Refer Fig-4.33). This variation was largely
due to variation in style, size, operator skill and work
practices.
Figure 4.32 : No. of Garments Trimmed/person/hr
Figure 4.33 : No. of Garments Pressed/person/hr
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
LDH 1 LDH 2 LDH 3 LDH 4 LDH 5 LDH 6 LDH 7 LDH 8 IDR 1
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
LDH 1 LDH 2 LDH 3 LDH 4 LDH 5 LDH 6 LDH 7 LDH 8 IDR 1
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 50
TABLE 1- Data of various departments of different garment units
Location: NCR
S.No Parameter Unit Code
NCR1 NCR2 NCR3 NCR4 NCR5 NCR6 NCR7 NCR8 NCR9 NCR10 NCR11
1 GENERAL FACTORY DETAILS
Year of Estd. 2007 2007 1997 1997 1999 1992 1992 1979 1979 1998 2006
Type of Unit
(Export/Domestic/Both) Export Export Export Export Export Export Export Export Export Export both
Type of Garment
Manufactured Ladies Ladies
Ladies+
kids
Ladies+
kids
Mens+
Ladies
t-shirt
Ladies+
kids
Ladies+ki
ds
Ladies+
kids+
mens
Ladies+
kids
mens
Ladies+
kids
Ladies+
kids+
mens
Type of Fabric Used
[Woven(W)/Knitted(K)] W+K W+K W+K W+K K W+K W+K W+K W+K W K
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 51
Parameter NCR1 NCR2 NCR3 NCR4 NCR5 NCR6 NCR7 NCR8 NCR9 NCR10 NCR11
Type of production system
followed PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS
No. of Sewing M/cs 440 440 600 600 232 550 550 450 450 427 350
Production Capacity/day
(No. of pcs) 4800 4500 6000 6000 3500 4000 4000 4000 4000 7500 15000
Actual Production/day (No. of
pcs) 4000 4000 4000 4000 2000 3000 3000 3500 3500 3000 12000
Capacity Utilization 83 89 67 67 57 75 75 87.5 88 40 80
Normal Working hrs/day 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
No. of Workmen 900 900 1200 1200 600 1100 1600 850 850 967 785
Type of Workmen [Salaried
(S)/Contractual (C)] Both Both S S Both Both Both Both Both S Both
No. of Supervisory Staff 40 40 25 25 45 40 40 60 60 94 24
No. of Managerial Staff 30 30 15 15 25 20 20 5 5 36 6
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 52
Parameter NCR1 NCR2 NCR3 NCR4 NCR5 NCR6 NCR7 NCR8 NCR9 NCR10 NCR11
2 FABRIC
Method of Fabric Inspection Machine Machine Machine Machine Manual Machine Machine Machine Machine Manual Manual
Fabric Inspection System
Followed 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point
% Fabric Return Annually 5% 5% Nil Nil 1-2% 3-5% 3-5% 1-2% 1-2% 1-2% 10%
% Fabric reprocessed annually 5% 5% Nil Nil 1% 3-5% 3-5% 1-2% 1-2% 1% NA
Difference in fabric length -
Grey Vs Finished Fabric Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Fabric Inventory in terms of:
Qty(mtrs) NA NA 5lac 5 lac NA 2 lac 2 lac 1 lac 1 Lac NA NA
Value (Rs ) NA NA NA NA NA NA NA 1 cr 1 cr NA 30 Lac
Fabric Grouping System shade
wise
shade
wise
shade
wise
shade
wise lotwise
shade
wise width wise
shade
wise +
width
wise
shade
wise
shade
wise
shade
wise
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 53
Parameter NCR1 NCR2 NCR3 NCR4 NCR5 NCR6 NCR7 NCR8 NCR9 NCR10 NCR11
% fabric rolls with width
variation Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil 3% NA 5%
Fabric Issue System
ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP Manual ERP Manual
3 LAYERING
Type of Fabric laid poplin poplin poplin crepe
single
jersey crepe crepe
poplin+
crepe poplin georgette
single
jersey
Type of garment cut ladies ladies kids kids Men’s ladies ladies ladies kids ladies ladies
Method of layering
(Manual/Machine) Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual both
Difference in Marker length
and Actual lay length (c.m) 3 3 2 1 5 3 2 3 3 3 5
Fabric GSM (gms) NA NA 113 148 120 118 113 NA NA 160 180
No. of Operators per team
3 3 2 2 2 3 2 2 2 3 4
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 54
Parameter NCR1 NCR2 NCR3 NCR4 NCR5 NCR6 NCR7 NCR8 NCR9 NCR10 NCR11
No. of Layers/team/hr
Marker Length- 3 mtrs or
less
Solid fabrics 60
Stripe/Print fabrics 54 86
Marker Length- 3-5 mtrs
Solid fabrics 92 66 66 93
Stripe/Print fabrics 57 45
Marker Length- 5-7 mtrs
Solid fabrics
42
Stripe/Print fabrics 90
4 CUTTING
Method of Marker Making CAD CAD Manual Manual CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD Manual
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 55
Parameter NCR1 NCR2 NCR3 NCR4 NCR5 NCR6 NCR7 NCR8 NCR9 NCR10 NCR11
Type of cutting followed Manual Manual Both Both Manual Both Both Both both Manual both
No. of garment cut/cutting
team/hr 89 80 84 92 40 100 90 94 93 100 106
5 SEWING
Fabric Type poplin poplin poplin crepe ladies
top
crepe Crepe poplin poplin georgette S/J
Fabric Pattern print print check print Solid solid Solid Print print NA solid
Type of Garment ladies
top
ladies
top
kids shirt kids top ladies
top
skirt kids top ladies
top
kids ladies ladies
top
Style Photo
Style SAM (min) 22 30.8 17 12 7.7 8.3 10 19.35 25 14 5
6 FINISHING AND PACKING
Type of Garment ladies ladies Kids kids ladies skirt kids top ladies kids ladies ladies
No. of garments
trimmed/workmen/hr
40 45 32 50 25 30 22 16 15 21 51
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 56
Parameter NCR1 NCR2 NCR3 NCR4 NCR5 NCR6 NCR7 NCR8 NCR9 NCR10 NCR11
Rework% in initial inspection 12 10 16 14 12 4-5 NA 20 NA 20 5
Rejection % in initial
inspection 1 1 1 0 2 1 NA 4 NA 3
1
No. of pcs. spotted /worker/hr 27 34 40 20 20 37 22 40 13 33 NA
No. of pcs.
pressed/workmen/hr 60 50 40 40 27 51 48 53 34 7
22
Rework% in final inspection 5 5 20 20 8 10 NA 5 NA 10 NA
Rejection % in final
inspection 1 1 1 1 1 0 NA 0 NA 0 NA
No. of pcs. packed/packer/hr
Flat Packing
Fold 66 40 47 40 45 40
37
Hanger 46 60 25 11
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 57
TABLE 1- Data of Various departments of different garment units
Location: NCR
S.N
o Parameter Unit Code
NCR
12
NCR
13
NCR
14
NCR
15
NCR
16
NCR
17
NCR
18
NCR
19
NCR
20
NCR
21
NCR
22
NCR
23
1 GENERAL FACTORY DETAILS
Year of Estd. 2006 NA 1990 2002 2007 2014 2014 2007 2014 1992 2003 1996
Type of Unit
(Export/Domestic/Both) both export both both export export export export
expor
t export export both
Type of Garment
Manufactured
ladies/
kids/
mens
ladies/
kids/
mens
ladies/
kids
ladies/
kids ladies ladies ladies ladies ladies ladies
ladies/
kids/
mens
ladies/
kids/
mens
Type of Fabric Used
[Woven(W)/Knitted(K)] K W+K W+K W+K W W+K W+K W W+K W+K K K
Type of production
system followed PBS UPS PBS PBS SPS PBS PBS SPS PBS PBS PBS PBS
No. of Sewing M/cs 350 1550 217 580 900 510 510 900 600 350 150 250
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 58
Parameter
NCR
12
NCR
13
NCR
14
NCR
15
NCR
16
NCR
17
NCR
18
NCR
19
NCR
20
NCR
21
NCR
22
NCR
23
Production Capacity/day
(No. of pcs) 15000 25000 1000 3500 13000 7000 7000 13000 8000 6500 2000 3000
Actual Production/day
(No. of pcs) 12000 22000 800 2000 19000 5000 5000 10000 5000 2600 900 1500
Capacity Utilization 80 88 80 57 77 71 71 77 62 40 45 50
Normal Working hrs/day 8 8 8 8 10 10 10 10 10 10 8 8
No. of Workmen 785 2450 470 850 2000 650 650 2000 1000 600 350 525
Type of Workmen
[Salaried (S)/Contractual
(C)]
both S S both both both both both S both S S
No. of Supervisory Staff 24 140 4 NA 90 45 45 90 30 15 NA NA
No. of Managerial Staff 6 25 4 NA 30 6 6 30 6 25 NA NA
2 FABRIC
Method of Fabric
Inspection Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual NA both Manual Manual
Fabric Inspection
System Followed 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point
4
point 4 point 4 point 4 point
% Fabric Return
Annually 10% NA 10% 2% 5% 2% 2% 5% NA 2% 1-2% 1-2%
% Fabric reprocessed
Annually NA NA
15-
20% 2% NA 20% 20% NA NA 2% 5% 4%
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 59
Parameter
NCR
12
NCR
13
NCR
14
NCR
15
NCR
16
NCR
17
NCR
18
NCR
19
NCR
20
NCR
21
NCR
22
NCR
23
Difference in fabric
length -Grey Vs
Finished Fabric
YES NA YES YES YES YES YES YES NA YES YES YES
Fabric Inventory in
terms of:
Qty(mtrs/ton) NA NA 1 LAC
mtr 4 LAC mtr
16
LAC NA NA
16
LAC NA NA 10 Ton 15 Ton
Value (Rs) 30 Lac NA 70-80
Lac 6 Cr 7-8 Cr NA NA 7-8 Cr NA NA NA NA
Fabric Grouping
System shade wise
shade
wise
shade
wise shade wise
shade
wise shade wise
shade
wise
shade
wise NA
shade
wise
shade
wise
shade
wise
% fabric rolls with width
variation 5% NA 5% 2-3% 1-2% 2% 2% 1-2% NA NA NA NA
Fabric Issue System Manual NA ERP ERP ERP Manual Manual ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP
3 LAYERING
Type of Fabric laid S/J Denim voile corduroy crepe poplin poplin poplin Rayon S/J S/J S/J
Type of garment cut ladies
tee
ladies
skirt
ladies
top trouser ladies ladies ladies ladies ladies ladies both Both
Method of layering
(Manual/Machine) Both Manual Manual Manual Both Manual Both Manual CAM Manual Manual Manual
Difference in Marker
length and Actual lay
length (c.m)
5 2 4 NA 4 5 5 4 2 10 1.5 1.5
Fabric GSM (gms) 140 205 73 NA 120 140 140
145 140 150 120 145
No. of Operators per team 4 3 2 2 2 3 3 2 3 3 4 4
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 60
Parameter
NCR
12
NCR
13
NCR
14
NCR
15
NCR
16
NCR
17
NCR
18
NCR
19
NCR
20
NCR
21
NCR
22
NCR
23
No. of Layers/team/hr
Marker Length- 3 mtrs
or less
Solid fabrics 130 45
Stripe/Print fabrics 80 70
Marker Length- 3-5 mtrs
Solid fabrics 76 55
Stripe/Print fabrics 45 40 45 30
Marker Length- 5-7 mtrs
Solid fabrics 52 60
Stripe/Print fabrics
4 CUTTING
Method of Marker Making Manual CAD Manual CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD
Type of cutting followed both Both both both Manual Manual Manual Manual CAM Manual Manual Manual
No. of garment cut/cutting
team/hr 106 294 54 133 160 130 140 175 NA 82 120 100
5 SEWING
Fabric Type S/J Denim voile corduroy crepe poplin poplin poplin rayon S/J S/J S/J
Fabric Pattern solid Solid solid print solid print print check print solid solid solid
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 61
Parameter
NCR
12
NCR
13
NCR
14
NCR
15
NCR
16
NCR
17
NCR
18
NCR
19
NCR
20
NCR
21
NCR
22
NCR
23
Type of Garment Ladies
tee
Ladies
skirt
Ladies
top
Kids
trouser Ladies Ladies
Ladies
top
Ladies
dress
ladies
shirt
Ladies
top
Ladies
dress
Ladies
dress
Style SAM (min)
6 30.7 25.4 17.5 76.8 17.92 22.6 41.6 32.3 9.6 35 38
6 FINISHING & PACKAGING
Type of Garment
Kids
top
Ladies
top
Ladies
tee Ladies tee NA NA NA
Ladies
dress
Ladies
top
Ladies
top
Ladies
dress
Ladies
shirt
No. of garments
trimmed/workmen/hr 15 21 51 45 50 24 NA 20 50 45 22 30
Rework% in initial
inspection NA 20 5 5 10 2 NA 25 10 10 20 NA
Rejection % in initial
inspection NA 3 1 1 0 1 NA 2 2 2 2 NA
No. of pcs. spotted
/worker/hr 13 33 NA NA NA 25 NA NA 37 30 NA NA
No. of pcs.
pressed/workmen/hr 34 7 22 40 49 25 NA 20 25 25 20 25
Rework% in final
inspection NA 10 NA NA 0 5 NA 22 15 12 25 10
Rejection % in final
inspection NA 0 NA NA 0 0 NA 1 1 1 2 2
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 62
Parameter
NCR
12
NCR
13
NCR
14
NCR
15
NCR
16
NCR
17
NCR
18
NCR
19
NCR
20
NCR
21
NCR
22
NCR
23
No. of pcs.
packed/packer/hr
Flat Packing NA NA NA
Fold 37 37 16 NA NA 40 50 NA 40
Hanger 25 11 27 NA NA NA
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 63
TABLE 2 -Data of various departments of different garment units
Location: Bengaluru
S.No Parameter Unit Code
BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
1 FACTORY DETAILS
Year of Estd. 2003 2011 2007 2001 2010 2005 2012 2012
Type of Unit
(Export/Domestic/Both) Export Export Domestic
Export &
Domestic Export
Export &
Domestic Export Export
Type of Garment
Manufactured
Men's
Casual Shirt
Men's
Casual/
Formal
Shirt &
Kids Shirts
Men's /
Women's
Casual/
Formal
Shirts
Trouser,
Shirts &
Suits
Mens
Formal
Shirts
Mens
Formal
Shirts
Mens
casual/
formal
Shirts
Mens
casual/
formal
Shirts
Type of Fabric Used W W W W W W W W
Type of production
system followed
Assembly
line
Assembly
line PBS+UPS
PBS+
UPS PBS
PBS+
UPS PBS PBS
No. of Sewing M/cs 700 300 590 1040 800 600 482 482
Production Capacity/day
(No. of pcs) 8000 4000 9100 7000 13000 6000 5000 5000
Actual Production/day
(No. of pcs) 7500 3500 9000 5908 11000 5500 4500 4500
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 64
Parameter BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
Normal Working hrs/day 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
No. of Workmen 1417 1263 2209 NA 1157 900 900
Type of Workmen
(Salaried/Contractual) Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried NA NA Salaried Salaried
No. of Supervisory Staff 103 105 34 51 NA
67 20 20
No. of Managerial Staff 39 21 21
Capacity utilization 94 86 98 84 85 92 90 90
2
FABRIC
Method of Fabric
Inspection Machine Machine Machine Machine Machine Machine Machine Machine
Fabric Inspection System
Followed 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point
% Fabric Return
Annually NA NA NA 1% NIL 5% NIL NIL
% Fabric reprocessed
Annually NA NA NA NA NA - NA NA
Difference in fabric
length -Grey Vs Finished
Fabric
NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 65
Parameter BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
Fabric Inventory in terms
of:
Qty(mtrs) 2 Lakh mtrs 2 Lakh mtrs
5.2 Lakh
mtrs NA
3 Lakh
mtrs
2.5 Lakh
mtrs
1.5 Lakh
mtrs
1.5 Lakh
mtrs
Value (Rs in lac) NA NA 950 NA NA NA 180 180
Fabric Grouping System Shade &
width wise
Shade &
width wise
Shade &
width wise
Shade &
width wise
Shade &
width wise
Shade
wise
Shade &
width
wise
Shade &
width
wise
% fabric rolls with width
variation NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA
Fabric Issue System
ERP ERP SAP SAP Stage SAP Manual Manual
3
LAYERING
Type of Fabric laid
Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven
Type of garment cut Shirts
Men’s
Shirts
Men’s
Shirts Trousers
Formal
Shirts Shirts Shirts Shirts
Method of layering Machine &
Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual
Machine
&
Manual
Machine
& Manual
Machine
&
Manual
Difference in Marker
length and Actual lay
length
Extra +1 cm
on both
sides
Extra +1
cm on both
sides
Extra 0.5
cm on
both sides
Extra +1
cm on
both sides
Extra +1
cm on both
sides
Extra +1
cm on
both
sides
Extra +1
cm on
both sides
Extra +1
cm on
both
sides
No. of Operators per
team 2 2 2 2 2 - NA
NA
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 66
Parameter BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
No. of Layers/team/hrs
Marker Length- < 5
mtrs
Solid fabrics 60 75
Stripe fabrics 55
Check Fabric 15 55 43 43
Marker Length- 5-6
mtrs
Solid fabrics 30 35 37 39 41
Stripe fabrics 22
Check Fabric 10
Marker Length- 7-9
mtrs
Solid fabrics 45
Stripe/printed fabrics
4 CUTTING
Method of Marker
Making CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD
Type of cutting followed
Manual &
Machine Manual
Manual &
Machine Machine Manual
Manual
&
Machine
NA NA
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 67
Parameter
BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
No. of Pcs cut/cutter/hr
950 pcs 800 1000 1100 2500 850 112 110
5 SEWING ROOM
Fabric Type
Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven
Type of Garment Men's
Casual Shirt
Men's
Casual
Shirt
Men’s
Shirt
Men’s
Trouser
Men’s
Formal
Shirts
Men’s
Formal
Shirts
Men’s
casual/
formal
Shirts
Men’s
casual/
formal
Shirts
Style SMV
29.15 27.99 27.44 31.98 NA 23.94 23.84 24.61
6 FINISHING & PACKING
Type of Garment Men's
Casual Shirt
Men's
Casual
Shirt
Men's
Casual
Shirt
Men’s
Trouser
Men’s
Formal
Shirt
Men’s
Formal
Shirts
Men’s
casual/
formal
Shirts
Men’s
casual/
formal
Shirts
No. of garments
trimmed/workmen/hr 36 40 42 40 26 29 37 34
Rework% in initial
inspection 8 12 11 9 13 11.5 10-15 10-15
No. of pcs.
pressed/workmen/hr 44 48 56 50 42 48 50 47
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 68
Parameter BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8
Rejection % in final
inspection 1-1.5% 2% 1% 1.50% 1.80% 2.20% 1.40% 1.30%
No. of pcs.
packed/day/packer
Flat Packing 30 42 59 48 52 43 50 46
Hanger Packing 350 -
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 69
TABLE 3- Data of various departments of different garment units
Location: Tirupur
S.No Parameter Unit Code
TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
1
GENERAL FACTORY
DETAILS
Year of Estd. 1988 1997 1976 2000 2005 2006 1994 1989 1989 2003
Type of Unit
(Export/Domestic/Both) Export Export Export
Export &
Domestic Export
Export &
Domestic Export
Export &
Domestic Export Export
Type of Garment
Manufactured
T-Shirt,
Polo
Shirt
T-Shirt,
Polo
Shirt
Kids T-
Shirt and
Polo
Shirt
T-Shirt,
Polo Shirt
Kids T-
Shirt
and
Polo
Shirt
T-Shirt,
Polo
Shirt
T-Shirt,
Polo
Shirt
T-Shirt,
Polo
Shirt
T-Shirt,
Polo
Shirt
T-Shirt,
Polo
Shirt
Type of Fabric Used
[Woven(W)/Knitted(K)] K Both W
and K
Both W
and K K K K
Both K
and W K K K
Type of production system
followed SBS
Assembly
line SBS SBS SBS SBS SBS SBS Line
Single
piece
flow
No. of Sewing M/cs 1000 at
4 units
120 180 300 130 150 100 57 550 470
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 70
Parameter TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
Production Capacity/day
(No. of pcs) 60000 5000 8000 6000 4000 5000 3500 1500 10000 9000
Actual Production/day (No.
of pcs) 50000 5000 6000 5000 2500 3000 2500 1000 9000 8000
Normal Working hrs/day 8 8 9 9 12 12 12 8 8 10
No. of Workmen 1600 120 310 380 110 75 110 66 900 529
Type of Workmen [Salaried
(S)/Contractual (C)] S
Both S
and C S S C C
Both S
and C C S
Both S
and C
No. of Supervisory Staff 120 12 28 35 12 15 32 4 140 14
No. of Managerial Staff 6 4 5 20 5 4 8 4 7 25
Capacity utilization 83 100 75 83 63 60 71 67 90 89
2 FABRIC
Method of Fabric Inspection Machine Manual Machine Manual Machine Manual Manual Manual Machine Machine
Fabric Inspection System
Followed 4 point 4 point 4 point
No
system 4point 4point 4point None 4point 4point
% Fabric Return Annually 0% 5% 1% 23% 2% 10% 8-10% 5% 2% 1%
% Fabric reprocessed
Annually 1-1.5% 1-2% 2-3% 10% 0% 30% 2-3% 5% 1% 5%
Difference in fabric length -
Grey Vs Finished Fabric Yes Yes 2-3% Yes 2% Yes Yes Yes Yes 8-10%
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 71
Parameter TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
Fabric Inventory in terms
of:
Qty(kgs)
31400 4000 80000 4000 30000 5000 4000 20000 10000 13000
Value (lacs)
120 14.5 304 120 120 20 16 70 45 40
Fabric Grouping System Buyer-
Wise
Order
wise
Order
wise
Order
wise
Order
wise
Order
wise
Buyer-
Wise
Order
wise
Order
wise
Order &
Buyer
wise
% fabric rolls with width
variation 5% 1% 1% 10% 0% 5% 20% 5% 1% 5%
Fabric Issue System
ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP W/o ERP ERP Manual ERP ERP
3
LAYERING
Type of Fabric laid
S/J S/J SJ, Pique SJ, Pique SJ,
Pique SJ, Pique
SJ,
Pique SJ Pique Pique
Type of garment cut
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo, T-
shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Method of layering
(Manual/Machine)
Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual
Difference in Marker length
and Actual lay length (c.m) 6 3 1 5 5 5 10 6 8 5
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 72
Parameter TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
No. of Layers/team/hr
Marker Length- 3 mtrs or
less
Solid fabrics 42 (SJ)
209
(pique) 27 (SJ)
Stripe/Print fabrics 110 (SJ)
Marker Length- 3-5 mtrs
Solid fabrics 96(pique)
33
(pique) 33 (SJ) 50(SJ) 17(pique) 36(pique)
Stripe/Print fabrics 27(SJ)
Marker Length- 5-7 mtrs
Solid fabrics 120(SJ) 25(pique)
60
(pique)
Stripe/Print fabrics 133 (SJ)
4 CUTTING
Method of Marker Making CAD CAD/
Paper
CAD/
Paper
CAD/
Paper Paper Paper CAD Manual CAD Manual
Type of cutting followed CAM Manual CAM Manual Both Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual
No. of garment cut/cutting
team/hr NA 83 NA 94 54 65 27 33 60 70
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 73
Parameter TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10
5 SEWING
Fabric Type S/J S/J Pique Pique Pique Pique S/J Pique Pique Pique
Fabric Pattern Print Solid Solid Solid Solid Solid Solid Stripe Solid Print
Type of Garment Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Kids
Polo
Shirt
Polo Shirt
Kids
Polo
Shirt
Kids
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Kids
Polo
Shirt
Style SAM (min) 10 52.48 12.5 10.88 12.5 19.5 15 13.4 11.26 11.82
6 FINISHING
Type of Garment
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Kids
Shirt
Polo Shirt
Kids
Polo
Shirt
Kids
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Kids
Polo
Shirt
No. of garments
trimmed/workmen/hr 34 40 53 41 18 26 26 27 64 26
Rework% in initial
inspection 4 5 12 10 5 30 8 3 2 2
Rejection % in initial
inspection 3 2 0.4 3 1 5 0.2 1 0 3
No. of pcs. spotted
/worker/hr 8 33 18 18 43 43 17 53 12 21
No. of pcs.
pressed/workmen/hr 27 60 56 70 26 35 43 53 53 21
Rework% in final inspection 1 2 4 1 2 5 0 0 1 2
Rejection % in final
inspection 0.8 1 0.2 below 1 1 0 0 0 0 1
No. of pcs. packed/packer/hr
Flat Packing 39
Fold 27 45 71 35 43 33 50 76 35
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 74
TABLE 4- Data of various departments of different garment units
Location: Ludhiana
S.N
o Parameter
Unit Code
LDH-1 LDH-2 LDH-3 LDH-4 LDH-5 LDH-6 LDH-7 LDH-8 IDR-1
1 FACTORY DETAILS
Year of Estd. 2002 1980 1994 1990 1990 1987 1987 1985 1999
Type of Unit
(Export/Domestic/Bot
h)
Domestic Domestic Domestic Domestic Domestic Domestic Domestic Export &
Domestic Export
Type of Garment
Manufactured
men's /
women's
Shirts,
Trouser,
Combat
wear
men's/
women's
Knitted
garments
kids/
men's /
women's
Knitted
garments
men's/
women's
Knitted
garments
men's/
women's
Knitted
garments
kids/
men's /
women's
Knitted
garments
kids/
men's /
women's
Knitted
garments
kids/ men's /
women's
Knitted
garments
Knits- Casual
&
Undergarment
s
Type of Fabric Used Woven Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted
Type of production
system followed
Assembl
y line
Assembly
line
Assembl
y line
Assembl
y line
Assembly
line
Assembly
line
Assembly
line
Assembly
line Assembly line
No. of Sewing M/cs 600 200 400 300 300 600 600 650 3500
Production
Capacity/day
(No. of pcs)
12000 4000 8000 4500 4500 12000 12000 12000 180000
Actual Production/day
(No. of pcs) 2500 2000 6600 4200 4200 11000 11000 5500 140000
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 75
Parameter LDH-1 LDH-2 LDH-3 LDH-4 LDH-5 LDH-6 LDH-7 LDH-8 IDR-1
Normal Working
hrs/day 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 16
No. of Workmen 900 412 952 1250 1250 NA NA 1300 NA
Type of Workmen
(Salaried/Contractual) Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried
No. of Supervisory
Staff 63 18 12 80 80 NA NA 42
NA
No. of Managerial
Staff NA
Capacity utilization 21 50 83 93 93 92 92 46 78
2 FABRIC
Method of Fabric
Inspection
Machine
(Semi
automatic)
Manual Manual
Machine
(Semi
automatic)
Machine
(Semi
automatic)
Machine
(Semi
automatic)
Machine
(Semi
automatic)
Machine
(Semi
automatic)
Machine
(Semi
automatic)
Fabric Inspection
System Followed 4 point - 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point
% Fabric Return
Annually 2-3% 2% 2% 2% 2% NA NA NA NIL
% Fabric reprocessed
Annually NA 5% NA 1% 1% NA NA - NA
Difference in fabric
length -Grey Vs
Finished Fabric
NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 76
Parameter LDH-1 LDH-2 LDH-3 LDH-4 LDH-5 LDH-6 LDH-7 LDH-8 IDR-1
Fabric Inventory in
terms of:
Qty(mtrs/kgs) NA
15000
kgs
50000
kgs 65000 65000 50000 50000 70000 216715
Value (Rs in lacs) NA 60 NA NA NA NA NA NA 8000
Fabric Grouping
System
Shade &
width
wise
Shade
wise
Shade &
width
wise
Shade
wise
Shade
wise
Shade
wise
Shade
wise Shade wise Shade wise
% fabric rolls with
width variation NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA
Fabric Issue System SAP - - ERP ERP - - ERP -
3 LAYERING
Type of Fabric laid Woven Knitted
Knitted
Pique
Knitted
S/J
Knitted
S/J
Knitted
S/J
Knitted
S/J Knitted S/J Knitted S/J
Type of garment cut Shirts
Polo
Shirt
Polo
Shirt
Round
neck
Polo
Tshirt
Round
neck
Polo
Tshirt Round neck Round neck
Method of layering
Manual
Machine
&
Manual
Manual Manual
Machine
&
Manual
Machine
&
Manual
Machine
&
Manual
Manual Machine &
Manual
Difference in Marker
length and Actual lay
length
Extra +2
cm on
both
sides
Extra +5
cm on
both
sides
Extra +2
cm on
both
sides
Extra +5
cm on
both
sides
Extra +5
cm on
both sides
Extra +5
cm on
both
sides
Extra +5
cm on
both
sides
Extra +2 cm
on both
sides
Extra +5 cm
on both sides
No. of Operators per
team 3 3 2 3 3 3 3 3 3
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 77
Parameter LDH-1 LDH-2 LDH-3 LDH-4 LDH-5 LDH-6 LDH-7 LDH-8 IDR-1
No. of Layers/team/hr
Marker Length- < 5
mtrs
Solid fabrics 30(S/J)
15(Fleece)
Stripe/printed fabrics
Marker Length- 5-6
mtrs
Solid fabrics 30 22 30
Stripe/printed fabrics 30 15 22
Marker Length- 7-9
mtrs
Solid fabrics 35 35 60 50 40
Stripe/printed fabrics 30 30 24 20
4 CUTTING
Method of Marker
Making CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD
Type of cutting
followed
Manual Manual Manual Machine Machine
Manual
&
Machine
Manual
&
Machine
Manual CAM
No. of Pcs
cut/cutter/hr 113 87 173 100 100 333 333 113 400
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 78
Parameter LDH-1 LDH-2 LDH-3 LDH-4 LDH-5 LDH-6 LDH-7 LDH-8 IDR-1
5 SEWING ROOM
Fabric Type Wovens Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted
Type of Garment
Men's
Casual
Trouser
Men's
Round
neck
Shirt
Men's
Round
neck
Shirt
Men's
Round
neck
Shirt
Men's
Polo Shirt
Men's
Round
neck
Shirt
Men's
Polo
Shirt
Women's
Round neck
Shirt
(Embroidery
)
Men's Trunk
Style SAM NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA
6 FINISHING & PACKING
Type of Garment
Men's
Casual
Trouser
Men's
Round
neck
Shirt
Men's
Round
neck
Shirt
Men's
Round
neck
Shirt
Mens
Polo neck
shirt
Men's
Round
neck
Shirt
Men’s
Polo neck
shirt
Women's
Round neck
Shirt
(Embroidery
)
Men’s casual/
formal Shirts
No. of garments
trimmed/workmen/hour 21 33 43 26 30 35 30 35 160
Rework% in initial
inspection 4 - - - - NA NA 4 10-15
Rejection % in initial
inspection 2 2-3% 1% 2% 2% NA NA 1
No. of pcs. spotted
/worker/ hrs NA 133 107 110 100 - 105
No. of pcs.
pressed/workmen/hour 47 53 51 37 35 35 53
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 79
Parameter LDH-1 LDH-2 LDH-3 LDH-4 LDH-5 LDH-6 LDH-7 LDH-8 IDR-1
Rework% in final
inspection NA - - - 5%
Rejection % in final
inspection 2% - 2% 2% - - 2%
No. of pcs packed/hour/
packer
Flat Packing 46 27 60 46 46 - - 50 54
Hanger Packing 27 - 33 27 27 - - 30
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 80
Table 5 – SMV Values for various operations - Men’s Shirt
S.No OPERATION U1 U1 U2 U3 U6 U6 U6 U6 U7 U8 Min.
SMV
Max.
SMV
Avg.
SMV
1. Cuff hemming 0.27 0.27 0.27 - 0.35 0.35 0.17 0.17 0.57 0.23 0.17 0.57 0.29
2. Embroidery
- - - - - 0.22 0.22 - - 0.22 0.22 0.22
3. Cuff run STH
0.55 0.55 0.55 0.5 0.8 0.8 0.6 0.6 - - 0.5 0.8 0.61
4. Cuff top STH 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.8 0.5 0.5 0.36 0.36 - 0.7 0.36 0.8 0.5
5. Cuff button hole - - - - 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 - - 0.27 0.27 0.27
6. Cuff button
attach.
- - - - 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 - - 0.22 0.22 0.22
7. Collar run stitch 0.4 0.4 0.45 0.45 0.56 0.64 0.51 0.64 - - 0.4 0.64 0.5
8. Collar bone
prep
- - - 0.2 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 - - 0.12 0.2 0.14
9. Collar bone
attach
- - - 0.65 0.31 0.31 0.31 0.31 - - 0.31 0.65 0.37
10. Collar top stitch 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.36 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 - - 0.3 0.4 0.34
11. Neck/Collar
band hem
0.25 0.25 0.25 0.19 0.25 0.25 0.22 0.22 - - 0.19 0.25 0.23
12. Neck band top
side attach
- 0.3 - - 0.29 0.29 0.29 0.29 1.16 1.16 0.29 1.16 0.54
13. Neck band
inside attach
- 0.25 - - 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.49 0.49 0.25 0.49 0.35
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 81
S.No OPERATION U1 U1 U2 U3 U6 U6 U6 U6 U7 U8 Min.
SMV
Max.
SMV
Avg.
SMV
14. Collar bead
stitch
- - - - 0.29 0.29 0.29 0.29 - - 0.29 0.29 0.29
15. Label attach - - - - 0.3 0.3 0.55 0.74 0.3 0.74 0.47
16. Slv. Small plkt
attach
0.35 0.35 0.38 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.58 0.35 0.58 0.45
17. Crow foot
tacking
- - - 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 - - 0.35 0.35 0.35
18. Slv. Big plkt
sew (solid)
0.5 0.75 0.75 0.84 0.95 1.1 0.91 1.1 0.6 0.5 1.1 0.83
19. Slv. Pleat
sewing
0.3 0.3 0.35 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.63 0.26 0.63 0.32
20. Sleeve
buttonhole
- - - - 0.23 0.23 0.23 0.23 - - 0.23 0.23 0.23
21. Sleeve button
stitch
- - - - 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 - - 0.2 0.2 0.2
22. Size label attach - - 0.35 0.2 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 - - 0.14 0.35 0.18
23. Back Yoke
attach
0.55 0.55 0.55 0.53 0.48 0.48 0.51 0.49 0.62 0.52 0.48 0.62 0.53
24. Back yoke top
stitch
0.5 0.5 0.3 - - - - - 0.5 0.47 0.3 0.5 0.45
25. Fit label attach 0.35 0.2 0.2 - 0.4 0.4 - 0.2 - - 0.2 0.4 0.29
26. Front Plkt attach 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.41 0.4 0.5 0.34 0.5 1.01 0.44 0.34 1.01 0.48
27. Front Pocket
hem
0.25 0.25 0.25 0.23 0.2 0.22 0.17 0.22 0.48 0.41 0.17 0.48 0.26
28. Front PKT
attach
0.65 0.65 0.65 0.68 0.81 0.89 0.63 0.89 1.14 0.92 0.63 1.14 0.79
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 82
S.No OPERATION U1 U1 U2 U3 U6 U6 U6 U6 U7 U8 Min.
SMV
Max.
SMV
Avg.
SMV
29. Front Button
hole
0.54 0.54 1.17 0.54 0.56 0.56 0.56 0.56 0.67 0.36 0.36 1.17 0.6
30. Right hand plkt
hem
0.65 0.4 0.4 0.43 0.36 0.4 0.4 0.4 - 0.47 0.36 0.65 0.43
31. Front BTN
stitch (solid)
0.6 0.78 1.02 0.97 0.64 0.71 0.64 0.71 - - 0.6 1.02 0.75
32. Shoulder att. 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.54 0.58 0.58 0.58 0.58 1.03 0.59 0.54 1.03 0.63
33. Sleeve att.
(solid)
0.9 0.9 0.9 0.84 1.1 1.1 0.92 1.1 1.06 1.21 0.84 1.21 1
34. Sleeve top stitch 0.52 0.52 0.52 0.71 0.71 0.71 0.71 0.71 - 0.62 0.52 0.71 0.63
35. Collar attach 0.51 0.51 0.51 0.54 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.77 0.64 0.51 0.77 0.57
36. Collar finishing
/close
0.61 0.61 0.61 0.59 0.63 0.63 0.63 0.63 0.8 0.77 0.59 0.8 0.65
37. Side seam 0.9 0.7 0.7 1.12 0.69 0.69 0.69 0.69 0.91 - 0.69 1.12 0.78
38. Cuff attach 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.71 0.87 0.87 0.87 0.87 - 0.63 0.6 0.87 0.73
39. Bottom hem 1.1 0.6 0.6 0.56 0.56 0.56 0.56 0.56 - 0.54 0.54 1.1 0.62
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 83
Table -6 SAM Values for various operations --- Men’s Polo Shirt
S.No Description of
Operation
U-1 U-2 U-3 U-4 U-5 U-6 U-7 U-8 U-9 U-10 Min.
SAM
Max.
SAM
Avg.
SAM
1 Placket ready and
attach
1.3 2.0 2.22 1.54 4.8 4.8 5.1 1.92 1.81 3 1.3 5.1 2.8
2 Shoulder attach 0.19 0.21 0.38 0.48 0.5 0.8 0.34 1 0.29 0.41 0.19 1 0.46
3 Shoulder topstitch - 0.23 - 0.44 0.3 - - - 0.19 0.41 0.19 0.23 0.31
4 Collar attach 0.38 1.5 0.65 0.42 0.4 1.8 1.7 1.92 1.44 0.62 0.38 1.92 1.08
5 Sleeve cuff/rib attach 0.48 - 0.9 0.64 - 0.24 - 1.28 0.38 0.32 0.24 1.28 0.56
6 Sleeve cuff/rib
topstitch
0.3 - 0.52 0.41 - 0.24 - - - 0.31 0.24 0.52 0.35
7 Sleeve hem - 0.38 - - 1.2 - 0.85 - - - 0.38 1.2 0.81
8 Sleeve attach 0.52 1.4 1.05 0.65 0.6 0.4 0.64 0.48 0.48 0.72 0.4 1.4 0.69
9 Sleeve topstitch 0.75 0.47 0.24 - 1.28 - 0.51 0.24 1.28 0.65
10 Side seam 0.56 1.4 1.07 0.42 0.7 0.8 0.85 0.48 0.81 0.62 0.48 1.4 0.77
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 84
S.No Description of
Operation
U-1 U-2 U-3 U-4 U-5 U-6 U-7 U-8 U-9 U-10 Min.
SAM
Max.
SAM
Avg.
SAM
11 Bottom hem 0.33 1.5 0.46 0.58 0.5 1.6 1.28 1.28 0.48 0.51 0.33 1.6 0.85
12 Label attach 0.4 0.38 0.51 0.38 0.51 0.43
13 Peak 0.35 0.2 0.5 0.44 - 0.2 0.5 0.37
14 Slit - 0.36 - 0.48 - 2.4 1.7 1.36 2.48 1.24 0.36 2.48 1.43
15 Button hole 0.28 0.26 0.35 - 0.5 0.4 0.43 0.96 0.29 - 0.26 0.96 0.43
16 Button attach 0.28 0.26 0.5 - 0.4 0.4 0.43 0.96 0.19 - 0.19 0.96 0.42
17 Bartack - - - - - 0.08 - 0.48 0.95 - 0.08 0.95 0.5
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 85
Chapter No.- 5
BEST PRACTICES
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 86
BEST PRACTICES OBSERVED IN GARMENT FACTORIES
Some of the best practices observed in garment units of NCR, Bengaluru,
Tirupur, and Ludhiana are given below. These practices can help the garment
units to improve their productivity, reduce wastages, improve quality and
improve overall efficiency of various departments.
1 FABRIC STORAGE AND FABRIC INSPECTION:
Rack and Pellet System: Fabric is stored in separate racks shade-wise and
order-wise and fork lifter is used to remove the fabric thans/rolls as per
requirement. This system helps to transport larger quantities of fabric using less
manpower and reduces time needed for the same. (shown in the fig. above)
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 87
Fabric and Trims Storage: The above figure shows another method of fabric
and trims storage. In this system, besides storing fabric, trims are also stored in
the same racks. For storing fabrics, lower shelves are used while for storage of
trims; shelves on the higher side are used. The material is then removed using
fork lifter. This reduces space requirement.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 88
Defect Identification System: For identification of fabric defects, stickers with
separate color codes (Green, Blue, Red) for defect points 1, 2, 3 and 4 can be
used. This will help the operator is identifying the defects easily during
layering and reduce rejections/reworks in the final garments occurring due to
fabric defects.
Supplier Wise Quality Analysis: Companies can use various parameters to
like defects/100meters, % on-time material delivery etc to evaluate and monitor
their suppliers
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 89
2 LAYERING, CUTTING AND FUSING:
By attaching a stand on the laying table, layering time can be reduced as fabric
unwinding becomes easy. It also reduces tendency of fabric (especially
knitted) to not wrinkle/crease during layering which further reduces time to lay
the fabric.
Adjustable Laying table: As shown in the above figure, a width adjustable
laying table can be useful for units using variable widths of fabric. This will
reduce the requirement of table with varying widths and also reduce the
requirement of tables and floor space.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 90
Fabric End Bit Management: Fabric end bits are used whenever there is a
shortage/additional requirement of panels in the production process. Part mix
up is a common problem during this process which often leads to garment
rejection in the end. End bits can be properly managed by racks as shown in the
above figure. This rack with separate shelves will help in easy identification of
fabrics and avoid mix up of different shades. Thus fabric can be utilized more
efficiently and rejections can be minimized.
Additional platform on the fusing m/c: Addition of a platform near the end
of the fusing machine helps the operator to keep the fused pieces on the
platform and reduces his/her motion time.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 91
Addition of Folders on the Fusing M/c: By attaching folders on one side of
the fusing machine, the cut panel to be fused (such as sleeve placket) along
with the fusing material can be directly fed into the folder and the finished
output can be obtained on the other side.
Feeding Zone
Output Area
Improvisation in Fusing Technique: In the above figures, the fusing table is
extended on one side and fusing roll is being unwound from the same end and
fabric to be fused is placed all over it by the operator. The output is obtained
from the other side. This method increases fusing accuracy and reduce the
manpower requirement.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 92
Spot Fusing: This is another innovative method of fusing. In this method,
fabric is fused with fusing material at 3 different places using a soldering iron
to avoid displacement of the two panels and achieve greater accuracy in the
main fusing process.
3 SEWING:
Sewing machine air blower - Air nozzle has been attached on the machine to
blow away loose threads/ short fibres from the fabric. It switches ON when the
pedal of machine is pressed.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 93
Modification in button attach machine - Wooden panel is attached on the
table of button attach machine. It prevents falling of buttons and makes the
operation convenient for the operator.
Moving Eye guard - In this button attach machine, the eye guard is connected
to the pedal. Whenever operator presses the pedal, the eye guard comes down
as a result of pneumatic pressure and remains in that position till the operation
is complete and the machine stops.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 94
Folder for cuff run stitch - In this machine, a folder is used for cuff run stitch.
It helps in continuous feeding of the cuffs to the machine without any stoppage.
Cut panel inventory monitoring system - This block is useful when small
parts line is separate from assembly line. Green sticker indicates that small part
is ready for feeding in line & Red sticker indicates that corresponding small
part is not ready for feeding.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 95
Placket attaching folder - Folder is used to attach front placket to the front
panel of shirt. It reduces the operation time and makes placket attachment
process easy for the operator.
Fusing attachment folder and fusing unwinding device - The folder is used
on the sewing machine to attach fusing to the front placket. On the operator
right hand side, a vertical stand having an unwinding device is fixed on the
table which has provision to mount and unwind the fusing roll.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 96
Above small modifications are made on the sewing machine to place/display
Daily production reports, Dustbin etc.
Box for panel storage - In this machine, a box is attached on the sewing
machine to keep the bundles inside the box. This increases the work space on
machine for operator, hence improving his efficiency.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 97
Cut Panel Platform– A wooden board is attachment to the left of sewing
machine and an emery paper is attached to the board. This board provides
space to keep the panels to be stitched and the emery prevents the panels to
slip. This increases operator efficiency.
Work aids storage - Wooden drawer is attached on the machine to keep
marking pen/pencil etc. It increases the work area of sewing operator.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 98
Work aids storage - Here, a wooden box with flap is attached to the machine
to keep the material/ bundles. The top portion of box can be utilized for
keeping other material.
Work aid - A rod which can be pushed inside when not required is attached on
the sewing machine to keep the big panels like trouser front and back panels.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 99
Manual conveyors are used for transportation of panels of garments from one
workstation to another. It reduces the space requirement & improves operator
efficiency.
Defect identification – Separate bins are attached on the inspection table for
Rejected/ Spotting / Alter garments. This identification helps in improving the
process flow.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 100
Double panel embroidery - Here, the embroidery machine is programmed for
making 2 types of designs consecutively without stopping the machine. Once
the embroidery on 1st panel is over, machine moves on second panel for
embroidery. The operator can then remove the 1st panel and put new panel
without machine stoppage.
Here, no frame is used during the embroidery process. An outline of low SPI
stitches is done across the embroidery design so as the panel does not move
when needle is running on the pattern.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 101
4 FINISHING
Hanger stand – hanger stand is attached on the pressing machine. It helps to
store hangers on the pressing machine.
Hanger storage: hanger stand is kept between the pressing machines. It helps
to hang the garments after pressing.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 102
T- Shirt packing aid – here a cardboard is used to transfer folded T-shirt into
poly bag.
Innovative Quality Inspection System: Conventionally, garment inspection is
done on a flat table. In the figure above, garment trimming and inspection is
done on a vertically inclined board with garment clipped on it. Two such
inclined boards are joined together in opposite direction to reduce space
requirement. This method also reduces operator fatigue.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 103
Garment Trimming Work Station: An inverted box having opening at the
top can be used to trim the garments so that fabric/thread waste can fall within
the box. This helps to maintain cleanliness at the workstation area.
Split pressing machine – For pressing small parts on same machine, pressing
machine is divided into 2 parts with 2 presses. 2 operators can work on
machine parallel to each other.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 104
Chapter No.- 6
CONCLUSIONS
&
SUGGESTIONS
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 105
CONCLUSIONS AND SUGGESTIONS
The studies were conducted in 50 units/styles in four major garment
manufacturing/export clusters namely NCR, Bengaluru, Tirupur and Ludhiana
between January 2016 and December 2016.
The study covered all major departments like fabrics, layering, cutting, sewing,
finishing and packing. Data was captured through discussions with
departmental heads and structured questionnaires.
In all the 4 clusters, significant variation in productivity and work practices was
observed in all the departments.
Spreading losses were found to be varying between 1cm and 10cms. Major
reasons for this variation were absence of markings on the laying table or
operator not following those markings i.e. operator negligence and
carelessness. To overcome this problem and reduce spreading losses, operator
should be made aware of the importance of fabric; proper monitoring of layer
mans should be done and end cutter machine should be used. The use of the
end cutter machine will ensure that the lay is cut exactly at the position it
should be cut.
In case of Bengaluru and Tirupur it was found that most of the units were
segregating fabric according to shade and width which help them to minimize
fabric losses due to width variation. However this practice was found to be
missing in many of the units of NCR and Ludhiana.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 106
It was observed that team of 3-4 layerman (especially in case of knitted fabrics
with longer marker lengths) gives significantly higher laying productivity.
Therefore to improve the cutting room efficiency team of 3-4 layerman should
be engage for longer marker length. Productivity can be further improved by
using fabric unwinding stands and laying stands as discussed in the Chapter on
“Best practices”. For units having high production capacities, use of CAM can
also be considered.
End bit management is an important aspect of improving fabric utilization and
cutting room efficiency. Work practices like end bit storage bins (as discussed
in Chapter on “Best practices”) should be considered for better fabric
utilization and traceability. This will also reduce garment rejection.
Operation-wise SAM values were collected for two major product categories-
Men’s Formal Shirt and Knitted Polo shirt. Considerable variations were
observed in timings between units making knitted polo shirts. This variation
can be attributed to operator skills and difference in sizes. In case of Men’s
Formal shirt, difference in timings was negligible as most of the units were
using latest technology machines and attachments.
These timings will help the garment manufacturers to assess their sewing
operations and improve their sewing time.
Significant variations in finishing department comprising of process like thread
trimming, spotting, pressing and packing were observed in all the four clusters.
This can be attributed to variation in style, fabric, operator skill and work
practices.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 107
Several innovative work practices in fabric store, laying, fusing, sewing and
finishing were observed in many garment units. These have been elaborately
discussed in chapter on “best practices”.
To conclude by improving/adopting better work practices, it is possible
improve productivity of various departments in a garment unit.
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 108
ANNEXURES
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 109
Annex-1
Questionnaire Used in the Study
FACTORY DETAILS
Date:
1 Name of the Factory
2 Complete Postal Address with PIN Code
3 Year of Establishment
4 Contact
Details:
Name Mob.
No Email Id
Factory
Manager
Production
Head
Quality Head
HR Head
5 Type of Unit
Export/Domestic
6 ERP
YES/NO
7 Type of Garments Manufactured
8 Type of Garment Manufactured(based on fabric
type)
Woven/knitted/both
9 Total No. of Sewing M/cs
10 Production system used:
11 Production Capacity/day(No. of pcs)
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12 Actual Production/day(No. of pcs)
13 Working hrs/day
14 Major Buyers
15 Countries Exporting to
16 Total No. of Workers
17 Type of
Workmen
Salaried/Contractual/Both
18 If both, % of
each
Salaried
Contractual
19 Total No. of Supervisory Staff
20 Total No. of Managerial Staff
21 Annual Turnover (Rs crores)
22 Worker Wage Structure Rs/Pm
Skilled
Semi Skilled
Unskilled
23 Any Special Facilities provided to workmen
24 Any Certifications like ISO etc
25 Avg. worker absenteeism %
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 111
FORMAT: FABRIC, LAYERING AND CUTTING ROOM
Date:
A FABRIC
1 Fabric Inspection
System Followed
4point/10point
2 Method of Fabric
Inspection
Manual/Machine based
3 % allowance added for calculating fabric average for different
fabrics
Commercial
Name of fabric Type of allowance % Allowance
4 % Fabric Return
Annually
5 % Fabric reprocessed
Annually
6 Do you observe any difference in fabric lengths in Grey Vs Finished
Fabric when you receive the fabric
7 Fabric
Inventory
In terms of
Qty Value
Duration
8 Fabric
Grouping
System
shade-wise/width-wise/shrinkage wise
9 % fabric rolls with width variation (outside the tol.)
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10 What is the system adopted for fabric
Issue ?
11 Cost of Fabric
Purchased/annum
12 Relaxation
methods
How it is done and for many hours
(for kniited
fabrics)
13 Total Manpower in
Fabric Deptt
14 Any special practices followed in the fabric section
B LAYERING
1 Type of spreading
followed Manual/Machine/Both
2 No. of Laying
Tables
3 Table Length
and Height
4 Extra Lay Length Viz-a-Viz Marker
length
5 End Bit/Remnant Management Practices followed by the
unit
6 Layering Time
For solid fabrics
For Stripe fabric
For Check Fabric
For Printed fabrics
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7 Total No. of
layerman
8 Any special practices followed in the laying section
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 114
FORMAT- SEWING ROOM
Date:
A STYLE DETAILS
1 Style #
Buyer
2 Type of Garment
3 Style Pic (Front and Back)
4 Measurements (attach copy of the measurement sheet)
B FABRIC DETAILS
1 Fabric Type :
Woven/Knitted
Solid/Print/Check/Stripe/Embroidered
Composition - 100% cotton/blend etc
Mill Made/Powerloom
2 Commercial Name of the fabric:
3 GSM
4 Special Treatment to the fabric (if
any)
C SEWING DETAILS
1 SAM of the style
2 Allowances %
3 Any Special M/c or Material handling
systems used in the sewing room
4 Any special practices followed in
the sewing section
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 115
FORMAT- FINISHING
A Process flow in finishing department
B Style details
1 Style #
2 Type of Garment
3 Style Pic (Front and Back)
-
4 Commercial Name of the fabric:
5 Measurements (attach photocopy of the measurement sheet)
C Thread Trimming
1 Method
Manual/Machine/both
2 No. of workers engaged in thread trimming:
3 No. of garments trimmed /day/person:
D Initial Inspection
1 No. of workers engaged in initial inspection
2 Rework%
3 Rejection %
E Spotting
1 No. of Workers Engaged in Spotting
2 No. of pcs, spotted /day/person
F Pressing
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 116
1 Total No. of m/cs in Pressing
2 No. of Pressman
3 No. of pcs. pressed/ day/person
G Final inspection (after pressing)
1 No. of workers engaged
2 Rework%
3 Rejection %
H Packing
1 Packing process flow
2 No. of workers engaged in packing
3 No. of pcs. packed/day/packer
Flat Packing
Hanger Packing
Fold Packing
I Any Special Practices in Finishing and Packing Section
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 117
Annex-2
List of Garment Units Studied
Sr. No. Name of the Unit
NCR
1. Aakriti Apparels Pvt. Ltd. Faridabad (S-1)
2. Aakriti Apparels Pvt. Ltd. Faridabad (S-2)
3. Afflatus International, Gurgaon (S-1)
4. Afflatus International, Gurgaon (S-2)
5. CGS Apparels, Noida
6. Fiori Creations Pvt. Ltd. Faridabad
7. Genus Apparels, Faridabad
8. Ginni Filaments , Noida (S-1)
9. Ginni Filaments , Noida (S-2)
10. Global Fashion Mode and Accessories, Noida
11. Neetee Apparels LLP, Gurgaon (S-1)
12. Neetee Apparels LLP, Gurgaon (S-2)
13. Orchid Overseas Pvt ltd, Gurgaon (S-1)
14. Orchid Overseas Pvt ltd, Gurgaon (S-2)
15. Paramount Products, Noida (S-1)
16. Paramount Products, Noida (S-2)
17. Pee Empro Exports, Faridabad (S-1)
18. Pee Empro Exports, Faridabad(S-2)
19. Shahi Exports pvt ltd, Faridabad
20. S J Designs Noida
21. Tandi Exports, Noida
22. TCNS, Noida
23. Wear well, Noida
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 118
BENGALURU
24. Arvind Ltd, Electronic City Unit
25. Arvind Ltd-Central Jail Unit
26. Celebrations Apparels Ltd
(A unit of Raymond Ltd)
27. Crafted Clothing Ltd
(A unit of Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd)
28. Fashion Craft Ltd
(A unit of Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd)
29. Laguna Apparels (Mauritius based Aquarelle
Group )
30. Shahi Exports, Unit 31
31. Shahi Exports, Unit 35
TIRUPUR
32. Anugraha Fashions
33. Awasthi Exports
34. CBC Fashions
35. Exim Knits
36. Gokul Knits
37. J-Win Fashions
38. Kandhan Knits
39. Prigo Garments
40. Rammu Creations
41. Warsaw International
LUDHIANA AND INDORE
42. Cotton County
43. Duke Fashions
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 119
44. Eveline International
45. Eveline International
46. Mini King Knitwear
47. Sports king
48. Sports king
49. Super fine knits
50. Pratibha Syntex, Indore
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 120
Annex-3
Style Pictures –NCR
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Style Pictures-Bengaluru
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Style Pictures- Tirupur
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Style Pictures-Ludhiana
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] India Brand Equity Foundation- Sectoral Report (Textiles & Apparel),
March 2017
[2] http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/flow-chart-of-garments-
manufacturing-process/
[3] Deshpande P* Garment Export Industry of India - A Comparison of Pre and
Post Liberalization Performance Arts Social Sci J 2015, 6:2 DOI:
10.4172/2151-6200.1000108
A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 131
S & T benefits accrued:
i. List of Research Publications: 01
“Study of work practices in Indian garment factories” presented in 58th
Joint Technological Conference organized by BTRA at Mumbai in Feb
2017
ii. Workshops (proposed) - 2-3 (NCR/Ludhiana/Bengaluru/Tirupur)
iii. Manpower trained on the project
(a) Research Scientists or Research Associates: 03
(b) No. of PhD produced: Nil
(c) Other Technical personnel trained: 01
iv. Patents taken, if any: Nil
Financial Position: Figures in Lacs
S.
No
Financial position
/Budget head
Funds
Sanctioned Expenditure
% of Total
Cost
1 Salaries/Manpower costs
16.00 16.40 38.58
2 Consultancy 8.00
9.19
21.60
3 Consumables
5.00 5.98
14.07
4 Promotional Expenses
5.00 4.50
10.59
5 Overheads & Travel 8.50
8.64
20.33
TOTAL (Lacs) 42.50 44.71 105.17
Vivek Agarwal Shweta Saxena Kushagra Prakash
M. K. Bansal M. M. Tiwari