300D Submirrors Repair
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How to repair broken sub-mirror on Canon EOS 300D / Rebel Download this page as a single zipfile (1912 kB). By: Tobbe Arnesson Contact: tobbe [at] happymtb [dot] org (I don't know anything about other camera models and to be frank, all I know about this one is written below). If you have a different camera or a different problem, try asking at some forum. This one is pretty good: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/ Written and fixed: 2006-07-15 Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for what might happen if you follow these steps. Your warranty will be shoot and if you screw up, you're to blame. This is just a documentation of what worked for me. Inspirational sites: 300D repair adventure and Canon Digital Rebel (300D) Modification. None of these are complete and left much to be solved during the operation. Preface It's not uncommon that the sub-mirror assembly on Canon EOS 300D / Rebel brakes after everything from 10.000 to 50.000 shots (I got 23.000 out of mine). This is due to a plastic pin snapping (not visible from the outside, even with the lens off the camera). It is possible to send the camera to Canon for repair. The cost is usually something like US $200. Considering what a new camera body costs this is not a cheap option for an old camera. If you're camera is still under warranty Canon should repair it for free since it's a design fault on their part. How to diagnose the problem All of your shots look like this (note: in some flash/sync combinations a similar phenomena can occur): This is due to the sub-mirror blocking the CCD, causing a dark area on the photos. Removing the lens and lifting the mirror carefully by hand, one can note that the sub-mirror wont close into the main mirror. The sub-mirror is used by the auto focus and should fold into the main mirror when
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300D
Transcript of 300D Submirrors Repair
How to repair broken sub-mirror on Canon EOS 300D / RebelDownload this page as a single zipfile (1912 kB).By: Tobbe ArnessonContact: tobbe [at] happymtb [dot] org (I don't know anything about other camera models and to be frank, all I know about this one is writtenbelow). If you have a different camera or a different problem, try asking at some forum. This one is pretty good: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/Written and fixed: 2006-07-15Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for what might happen if you follow these steps. Your warranty will be shoot and if you screw up, you're toblame. This is just a documentation of what worked for me.Inspirational sites: 300D repair adventure and Canon Digital Rebel (300D) Modification. None of these are complete and left much to be solvedduring the operation.
PrefaceIt's not uncommon that the sub-mirror assembly on Canon EOS 300D / Rebel brakes after everything from 10.000 to 50.000 shots (I got 23.000 outof mine). This is due to a plastic pin snapping (not visible from the outside, even with the lens off the camera). It is possible to send the camera toCanon for repair. The cost is usually something like US $200. Considering what a new camera body costs this is not a cheap option for an oldcamera. If you're camera is still under warranty Canon should repair it for free since it's a design fault on their part.
How to diagnose the problemAll of your shots look like this (note: in some flash/sync combinations a similar phenomena can occur):This is due to the sub-mirror blocking the CCD, causing a dark area on the photos. Removing the lens and lifting the mirror carefully by hand, onecan note that the sub-mirror wont close into the main mirror. The sub-mirror is used by the auto focus and should fold into the main mirror when
