196812 Desert Magazine 1968 December

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Volume 31 Number 12DECEMBER, 1968

WILLIAM KNYVETTPUBLISHER

JACK PEPPEREDITOR

ELTA SHIVELYExecutive SecretaryMARVEL BARRETT

Business

LLOYD SHIVELYCirculat ion

CHORAL PEPPERTravel Feature Editor

JACK DELANEYStaff WriterBILL BRYAN

Back Country Editor

EDITORIAL OFFICES: 74-109 Larrea, Palm Desert,Ca l i fo rn ia 92260 . Area Code 714 34 6-81 44 .Unsolic ited manuscripts and photographs notaccompanied by self addressed, stamped and zipcoded envelopes wil l NOT be returned.ADVERTISING OFFICES: James March & Asso-ciates Inc., 1709 West 8th Street, Los Angeles,Ca l i fo rn ia 9001 7 , HUbbard 3 -05 61 115 NewMontgomery , San Franc isco, Cal i forn ia 94105,DOuglas 2-4994. Listed in Standard Rate & Data.CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT: 74-109 Larrea,Palm Desert , Cali fornia 92260. Desert Magazineis published monthly. Subscript ion prices: UnitedStates, 1 year, $5 .00 ; 2 years, $9 .50 ; 3 years,$ 1 3 . 0 0 . Foreign subscribers add $ 1.0 0 U. S,Currency for each year. See Subscript ion OrderForm in back of this issue. Allow f ive weeks forchange of address and be sure to send bothnew and old addresses with zip code.

DESERT is published monthly by Desert Magazine,Palm Desert, Calif. Second Class Postage paid a!Palm Desert , Cali f . , and at addit ional mail ingoff ices under Act of March 3, 1879. Tit le regis-tered NO. 358865 in U. S. Patent Off ice, andcontents copyrighted 1968 by Desert Magazine.Unsolic ited manuscripts and photographs cannotbe returned or acknowledged unless ful l returnpostage is enclosed. Permission to reproduce con-tents rrust be secured from the editor in writ ing.

C O N T E N T S4 Book Reviews5 Editorial6 Perris Valley

By ROSEMARY EVANS

8 50,0 00 Years AgoBy L. BURR BELDEN

12 No Water in GreenwaterBy RICHARD S. SMITH

15 So That Some May LiveBy AL PEARCE

18 Fort With A ForteBy RAY HERBECK JR.

23 Arizona's Blue Jean CountryBy JACK DELANEY

27 Indian Cave of Gold and BonesBy BEN TRAYWICK

28 Horned HangoverBy K. L. BOYNTON

31 Wom an's View Point32 Arizo na's Colossal Cave

By KIM OWENBY

34 Pack Rat Joe's MineBy JAMES HARRIGAN

38 Back Country TravelBy BILL BRYAN

42 Desert Shopper43 Letters

DECEMBER COLOR PHOTOSA White Christmas seldom comes to the high desert areas, butwhen it does the fleeting snow turns the desert plants andJoshua Trees into a winter wonderland as il lustrated in thecover photograph by David Muench, Santa Barbara, California.Giant saguaros and ocotillo dot the landscape of Arizona's BlueJean Country. Riding through the scenic mountains and desertsis a favorite sport of residents and visitors. Photo on page 23by Robert Blair, Los Angeles.


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bOOK RE VIEWSSUN, SAND AND SOLITUDEBy Randall Henderson

If I were asked to name one man livingtoday who has had more experience, hasthe deepest understanding and the great-est appreciation of the desert areas of theWest I would immediately say RandallHenderson.I say this not because he founded Des-ert Magazine 31 years ago at an age whenmost men think of retiring, not becausehe is a militant conservationist and mem-ber of the Desert Protective Councilamong many other outdoor groups, andnot because he has lived on the desertnearly all of his seventy-odd years. Many

people have been desert dwellers all oftheir lives, but still have little knowledgeof their environment.I would name Randall because in thefive years I have known him I have beengreatly influenced by the man whose per-sonality, character and compassion arethe direct result of having lived, lovedand fought for our wilderness areas. Ran-dall Henderson is not part of the desert,he is the desert.In an editorial in the first issue of

Desert Magazine, November, 1937, en-

B u r i e d T r e a s u r e .Could be "there's gold in them tharhills." In the Superstit ion Mountainsof Arizona, there are certainly lots ofhuman bones. The most recent attemptto explore the famed Lost DutchmanMine was successful in at least onerespectthe explorer, Glenn Magill , gotback al ive. What happened to him andto others before himis reported in anexciting new book, T H E K I L L E RM O U N T A I N S , by Curt Gentry. "Finalwords in the book include hints for thoseanxious, or crazy enough, to continuethe search. This is a very reada bleaccount about a subject always indemand by fans of Western adventure." Library Journal.Whether or not you plan a treasurehunt to the Lost Dutchman yourself,there is enough here to satisfy the mostadventurous readersincluding all thosevicarious prospectors on your Christmaslist. $5.50 at bookstores, or fromW O R L D P U B L I S H I N G , D e p t . D D ,2231 W. 110th Street, Cleveland, Ohio.The Ki l lerMountainsby Curt Gentry

titled There Are Two Deserts, Randallstated:"To those who come to the desert withfriendliness, it gives friendship; to those

who come with courage, it gives newstrength of character. Those seeking re-laxation find release from the world ofman-made troubles. For those seekingbeauty, the desert offers nature's rarestartistry. This is the desert that men andwomen learn to love."This same philosophy of 31 years agois stated in his new book, Sun, Sand andSolitude, a sequel to his popular On Des-ert Trails, published in 1961 and stillgoing strong.His new book is a collection of his ex-periences, observations and philosophy.It is concerned with the deep and poig-nant wonder of desert living, which hehas seen grow from a few hardy devotees,to the present widespread and fascinatingway of life so peculiar to the AmericanWest.You may not agree with al l of his ob-servationsI do notbut you will havea greater understanding and a broaderview of our changing desert, both past

and present, after reading this provoca-tive book.Deluxe format, antique deckle-edgedpaper, excellent illustrations by NortonAllen, 16-page section in full color. $7.95.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIABy the Editors of Sunset Books

An illustrated travel guide to SouthernCalifornia, this is another in the seriesof Sunset Travel Books. It presents incapsule form most of the interestingplaces to visit and things to see in South-ern California.

Sections include San Diego, Trips fromSan Diego, Los Angeles, Trips from LosAngeles, Catalina Island, Palm Springs,Santa Barbara, Trips from Santa Barbara,The San Luis Obispo Area, The CentralValley (Fresno and Bakersfield), Sequoiaand Kings Canyon, The Mojave Desert,Death Valley and East of the Sierra.Heavy paperback, large 8 x 1 1 format,

128 pages, $1.95.

Books reviewed may be orderedfrom the DESERT Magazine BookOrder Department, Palm Desert,California 92260. Please include50c for handling. California resi-dents must add 5% sales tax..Enclose payment with order.

THE ROSE AND THE ROBEPainted and Written by Ted De GraziaThis interpretation of Father JuniperoSerra's 15 years among the first of theCalifornia Missions brings into full flowerthe unique art talents of the famousSouthwestern artist, Ettore (Ted) DeGrazia.The artist and author uses notes fromearly Franciscan letters and diaries tofurnish the material for his oil paintingsand line drawings. The text is short andhis written interpretation of some of theincidents that occurred in the Spanishmission days compliment the excellentreproductions of his oil paintings. TheArizona artist has created his best bookto date. It is an ideal Christmas presentPrinted on high-quality 80-poundPatina the 80-page book is a large 9 x 12format with 25 full pages of color platesand dozens of sketches. Hard cover, 4-color jacket. $11.75.

BLACK ROBES INLOWER CALIFORNIABy Peter Masten Dunne, S.J.

Long out of print this remarkable account of the settlement of Baja by theJesuit missionaries is once again availableThe Spanish crown had made six unsuccessful attempts to colonize LoweCalifornia at a cost of a half millionpesos. It remained for the Jesuits to raisethe needed money on their own so theycould go into the barren country and facthe hostile Indians. They improved (insome ways) the condition of the Indianand introduced farming and cattle raisingThen, after establishing 20 missions during a century of struggle, they were suddenly banished from their adopted landAlthough the author is a Jesuit, he hatold the fascinating story objectivelyHardcover, illustrated, 537 pages, $11.50

4


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EDITORIALCoyote CanyonCoyote Canyon is located in the northwest corner of California's Anza-BorregoState Park in San Diego County. In 1774 Juan Bautista de Anza traveled throughCoyote Canyon en route to San Francisco from Yuma, Arizona. His same route waslater followed by hundreds of wagon trains. Today the area is only accessible by hiking,horseback riding or in back country vehicles.The Borrego Springs Chamber of Commerce has petitioned the California StateDepartment of Parks and Recreation to construct a paved road from their area throughCoyote Canyon to connect with State Highway 71 near Anza in Riverside County. Theymaintain a paved road would help their economy by providing a faster route fromRiverside and Los Angeles and provide quicker shipment of perishable produce tomarkets.Borrego Springs is located in the heart of the Anza-Borrego State Park and is

headquarters for many thousands of people who visit the park every month during thewinter season. It is a delightful community with excellent tourist facilities. A newpaved highway has just recently been completed from Borrego Springs to State High-way 86 at the Salton Sea. Route 86 connects with the San Bernardino Freeway 30 milesnorth.The proposed highway is opposed by such organizations as the Desert ProtectiveCouncil and the California Association of Four Wheel Drive Clubs, which, incident-ally, do not always agree. Desert Magazine joins these organizations in opposing theproposal for the following reasons:1 . Although a paved road would shorten the driving distance by some 20 or 30miles, it would not shorten the driving time. The paved road would connect with StateRoute 74. From this point to reach either the San Bernardino Freeway or U.S. 395 you

would have many miles of mountain driving. This would be slower than taking the SanBernardino Freeway to Indio, south 30 miles to the new paved Truckhaven road andinto Borrego. So we feel the proposed highway would not accomplish its allegedpurpose.2 . Every week anywhere from 100 to 500 people visit the Coyote Canyon wilder-ness area which is rich in fauna and flora and has an important historical background.The Santa Caterina Springs provide water the year around. As a result the area has anabundance of wildlife, including bighorn sheep. The highway would destroy three oftheir water holes and result in the destruction of at last 70 of these majestic creatures.Coyote Canyon's unique vegetation with its special groups of bird and animal inhabit-ants provides one of the few remaining w ilderness areas in Southern California. Itshould be kept inviolate for the peace of both man and its native inhabitants.

STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIPStatement of ownership, management and cir-culation (Act of October 23, 1962 Section 4369,Title 39, United States Code).1 . Date of filing: October 1, 1968.

2 . Title of publication: DESERT Magazine.3. Frequency of issue: Monthly.4 . Location of known office of publication:Palm Desert, Calif. 92260.5. Location of the headquarters or generalbusiness offices of the publishers: Palm Desert,California 92260.6. Names and addresses of publisher and

editor: Publisher: William Knyvett, 79-890 Horse-

shoe Rd., Indio, California 92201.Editor: Jack Pepper, 45-451 Deep Canyon Dr.,Palm Desert, California 92260.7. Owners: Jack Pepper and William andJoyce Knyvett.8. Bondholders, mortgagers, security holders:None.9. Re No. 8: None.1 0 . Average over 12 month period of issuesfrom November 1967 to October 1968: 45,000copies printed, 21,000 paid circulation, 23,000mail subscriptions, 44,000 total paid circulation.500 free distribution, 44,500 total distribution,500 office use, spoiled, etc.

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Perris Valleyby Rosemary Evans

PERRIS VALLEY is the proposed siteof the Perris Dam and Reservoir SouthernTerminus of the California Feather RiverWater System. This vast land of solitudewas once inhabited by Indians. By 1972the area is expected to double in popula-tion, but for now it is on the primitiveside. In some places only a lone sheep-herder with his flock breaks the silence.In the heart of the valley is the city ofPerris, one of the last pioneering townsof Southern California. It is located on

U.S. 395 and State 74, seventy miles eastof Los Angeles, and fifteen miles southof Riverside. West of the city are thegold-bearing hills of Gavilan.Perris was built in 1881 when theCalifornia Southern Railroad laid trackthrough the area. The first town site wascalled Pinacate, a Spanish word meaningStinkbug. The town grew quickly assettlers took out homesteads and boughtrailroad land.Pinacate had a short life of less than

five years. The building of a depot, oneand a half miles north, was an inducementto build a new town. The town was calledPerris in honor of the railroad's chiefsurveyor, F. T. Perris. It wasn't long be-fore the surrounding desert plains becameknown as Perris Valley. The valley is aland of sunshine and fresh air wherepetroglyph boulders and other Indianrelics can still be found.If you come to Perris from the north,leave U.S. 395 at the Perris, Elsinore

exit. As you enter the city look for theRock Castle on your right. This fortressis a private residence. Its tile roof isvisible from any part of the valley. Itwas erected in 1928 by the Ragsdalefamily. Each rock was carefully selectedfrom desert washes, loaded aboard aModel-T truck and hauled to the Perrishilltop. The base of the walls are six feetthick.Below the castle and across the streetis the old Union High School campus,

This historic building constructed in 1884 is in sharp contrast to the newer build-ings in the bustling com munity of Perris.


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built in 1910. This property now servesas City Hall and Civic Center. Each Juneduring the Perris Valley Art Festival,the yard exhibits a model of the EiffelTower, giving Perris, U.S.A. that Parisair of gayety.There are no signal lights in Perris, butat Fourth and D Streets, a four-way stop,you can get a good view of the town. On

the left, halfway between Fourth andFifth Streets, is the two-story hotel of theBernasconi family. Tilly Bernasconi stillresides in the old building. It was builtin 1884 by her father. Plans are beingmade to restore the building.At the end of D Street, follow theTrolley Museum signs to the former town-site of Pinacate. The museum is a junk-yard of collapsed and rejuvenated oldtrolleys. Street car enthusiasts spendmoney, weekends, and vacations restoringthese relics. A ten by twelve dug-out,used as a supply store, is the only remain-ing evidence of Pinacate.The Orange Trolley Museum is a non-

profit hobbyist club. Its members invitefolks to climb aboard one of the trolleys.Everyone becomes a child at the museum,

Two of the many old trains at the Trolley M useum, a favorite spot for childrenand adult train buffs.so go ahead, ring the bell. The groundsare open to the public every day withoutcharge. There is, however, a small chargeto ride the one-mile of finished trackleading toward town. Eventually therewill be six miles of track into RailroadCanyon.

The scene east of Perris is rural. Sheeppasture on open range. Fenced spreadsare large cattle and chicken ranches.Where there are now great fields of pota-toes, grain and alfalfa, the Perris Damand Reservoir will be built. Present con-struction schedule provides for comple-tion of the 2080-acre lake in 1972.

Six hundred acres of the surroundingland will be a camper's paradise. Therewill be a 65-acre island picnic area forboaters. An 80-acre boat launching areawill bring water sport enthusiasts to thelake. For swimmers there will be an 80-acre beach of imported sand. Camperswill have ample space at a 7 5-acre trailercamp.At the present time, campers, boatersand water skiers enjoy nearby Ski Land's90-acre lake. Ski Land is located on SanJacinto Avenue, three miles east of Perris,and three miles south of the proposedPerris Lake.

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5 0 , 0 0 0 Y e a r s A gFor four years archeologists havebeen quietly digging into an alluvialfan in California's San BernardinoCounty. During the past yearthere were rumors of importantfinds, but it was not until recentlyan eastern scientific journal officiallydisclosed the artifacts indicated manexisted on the North Americancontinent 50,000 years ago25,000years earlier than previouslyestablished. DESERT is the firstmagazine in the West to publish detailsof "the most important milestone inthe history of the study of prehistory ofAmerica." The author, L. Burr Belden,is a noted historian and writer onWestern Americana.

by L Burr Belden

DIGGINGS

MUSEUMCAMP

YERM0DUMP

TO BAKER

MINNE0LAOVERPASS^CHECKINGSTATION

TO BARST0W8

EARLY MAN lived and hunted onCalifornia's Mojave Desert. This isroughly at least twice the time archeolo-gists previously have believed the humanrace inhabited the North American con-tinent. This major discovery, which "rollsback the dawn" for 25,000 or more years,results from scientifically controlled ex-cavations made over the past four yearsby the National Geographic Society andthe San Bernardino County Museum inthe Calico Hills northeast of Yermo.

The excavation and study, which hasattracted international attention in the


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scientific world, started in the fall of1964 following study of the area since1939 and of the general region as earlyas 1898.The detailed exploration is continuingin two major excavations with the viewthat artifacts found will be criticallyexamined by archeologists and geologistslate this fall at a symposium which is

expected to draw international attendance.For four years crews of trained workershave excavated two pit sites on an alluvialfan with tiny picks and trowelssomeso small they made an ordinary teaspoonseem giant-size by comparison. Imagineremoving, sifting, and examining over20,000 cubic feet of earth, rock, anddebris with tools smaller than a baby'ssand shovel! To do so even in a four-year span has left little time for siestas.It is a bit ironic that knowledge of this

major inquiry into man's past has becomepublic property in the summer and earlyfall months this year due to its threateneddisruption by a man who claims owner-ship to certain unparented mining claims.Glenn S. Gunn ordered eviction of themuseum field workers on two occasionsand once even moved a bulldozer un-comfortably close. Then, when the De-partment of Interior's Bureau of LandManagement indicated it considers thescientists hold a better occupancy right,which stems from the Federal AntiquitiesAct, Mr. Gunn granted a series of tem-porary postponements. While the issuewas in suspense, Secretary of the InteriorStuart Udall announced he had foundthe Gunn claims invalid as they lackedsubstantiating proof of value. Gunn re-tained an attorney and threatened courtaction. There the matter currently restsin a somewhat uneasy "cease fire."-

While actual excavation started at theCalico Hills site a mere four years ago,the general area was observed and writtenabout as early as 1939 by Dr. MacolmRogers, director of the Museum of Manin San Diego, who, in that museum'sjournal, noted a "quarry site exists threemiles west of Manix Station on the UnionPacific which is of great magnitude."

In the 1940s, Dr. Gerald A. Smith,then president of the San BernardinoCounty Historical Society, Stuart Peck,Ruth Simpson, and Ritner Sayles madenumerous study trips to the Manix areaand collected numerous surface stone

implements which had been exposed bythe wind.

During the early 1950s, the then fledg-ling San Bernardino County MuseumAssociation, of which Dr. Smith waspresident, turned its attention to a some-what later chapter in the Mojave's pre-history by excavating two mountain cavesjust south of Newberry Springs. There,in what have been named the Smith andSchuiling Caves, were the remains of ahunting culture that exsited thousands ofyears before Columbus reached the shoreof Watling Island. The caves yieldedbones of extinct animals and birds, car-bon, split-twig figurines, and sinew-boundjointed dart throwers. On walls of the"big cave," named for Dr. Smith, werefound fragments of crude paintings, orpictographs.

The county museum was assisted by theLos Angeles County Museum in the New-berry exploration.

After Newberry there were brief ex-plorations around Troy Dry Lake butbefore much work was done, Calicocalled. In the 1950s Miss Ruth D. Simp-son, then with Southwest Museum inHighland Park, had studied the prehistor-ic artifacts found in the low hills west ofManix basin. She was convinced the areaoffered great opportunity for furtherstudy. Miss Simpson and Mr. Peck werealso engaged in a survey of the ManixBasin beginning in 1954.Miss Simpson went to England in1958 where she showed Calico Mountainssurface artifacts to Dr. L. S. B. Leakeyand obtained his promise of an early visit.Fitting into the emerging pattern was avisit by Dr. Leakey to the University ofCalifornia at Riverside in 1963 for aseries of lectures. Miss Simpson againcontacted this world-renowned archeolo-gist. The scientist was on a semester'sleave from his major early man studies in

Nairobi, Kenya, East Africa.Dr. Leakey accompanied Miss Simp-son on a reconnaissance of the CalicoMountains area in May, 1963. He im-mediately pronounced the surface materialto be representative of an early workshoparea, as there were spots literally paved

Workers use brushes and trowelssometimes smaller than teaspoons intheir meticulous search forartifacts from Pleistocene Age.

Field workers stand by pit onthe alluvial fan in Calico Mountains.Geologists estimate age of fan atbetween 50,000 and 80,000 years.

t*4

~'^%*cV ,

' ^ \-tMiss Ruth Simpson (white hat)watches as crew enlarges original pit.Principal excavation is 25 feetsquare with depth of 13 feet.


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Six specimens found in the diggings which site archeologists say were handmade 50,000 years ago or longer. To date morethan 110 artifacts have been recovered during the four-year excavation. Notice the flaked sides of the Pleistocene specimenswith crude stone implements and chip-pings which gave evidence that prehistoricpeople had either occupied or frequentlyvisited the area in considerable numbers.The workshops were on the surface of anancient alluvial fan. The fan intrigued thenoted visitor.

In an old road-cut were exposed stonetools, or artifacts, in place at considerabledepth. Here were both flaked stonesfashioned into crude scrapers, knives andhammerstones, and the flakes removedin fashioning these primitive tools. Dr.Leakey proposed that an excavation indepth be made to ascertain the time spanand characteristics of man's occupancy ofthe fan.10

Having seen the evidence of man'stools in place in the Pleistocene alluvialfan, Dr. Leakey headed back to his studycenter in Africa via Washington, D.C.The Calico Mountains early man projectas visioned in 1963 was a far bigger bitethan the young San Bernardino CountyMuseum could masticate with its limitedfinancial resources. Both Dr. Leakey andDr. Smith had discussed the possibilityof interesting the National GeographicSociety in the project. In his briefcase,Dr. Leakey now carried a formal applica-tion asking the National GeographicSociety to become a full partner in theproject. The application, signed by thetwo scientists, proposed that they super-

vise the undertaking with Miss Simpsonthe county archeologist, directing thefieldwork.The first step toward more extensivestudy was then taken in 1964 when DrSmith and Miss Simpson obtained an excavation and study permit from theDepartment of the Interior, a formal filing executed in conformity with theFederal Antiquities Act. Dr. Smith's signature appears on the museum's copy aspresident of the association.

Things moved rapidly. National Geographic Society suggested that the CountyMuseum make certain changes in theoriginal application. These were madeand on May 14, 1964, the San Bernar


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N O W A T E RinG r e e n w a t e rby Richard S. Smith

GREENWATER VALLEY, in thesoutheast corner of Death Valley NationalMonument, may not have been the mosttreacherous, but it was certainly the mostdesolate spot in California back in the1890s.A lonely prospector, H. G. Betts, trek-ing through a high valley on the eastside of the Black Mountains, venturednear such alluring place names as CoffinCanyon and Funeral Peak. Where thevalley narrows to make its descent to-ward Shoshone, and from a spring wheregreen water erupted, Betts discoveredcopper. It was 1898.Betts had foresight enough to see atown to be, and dubbed it Ramsey. Thename didn't stick as the town was laterrenamed Greenwater after its namesakemeager water supply.Arthur Kunze came to the valley in1904 to stake claims. While Kunze andBetts were filing, they found that theyweren't the first. Locations had beenstaked as early as 1884, but like DoctorTrotter, who filed a gold and silverclaim here in 1894, the area was too in-accessible so the claims were abandoned.At the turn of the century, Greenwaterbegan taking the shape of a boom town.More than 2500 claims had been stakedin a 20-mile area. The ore assayed as

12

high as 18% in copper. With the influxof large investors from the East, whojourneyed to Greenwater by way of Rhy-olite, over $4,125,000 changed hands inthe purchase of claims.Greenwater was by far the most dis-tant of the desert outposts, so transpor-tation came at a premium. The quickestroute was via the Las Vegas and Tono-pah Railroad which deposited its passen-gers 46 miles from Greenwater. TheTonopah and Tidewater Railroad wasavailable also but made their delivery 70miles away.Where the Tonopah and Tidewaterstopped, an enterprising gentleman madehis car available. He chartered passengersfor the two-day trip to Greenwater at$200 per head. In 1906 one hundredpeople a day tramped into Greenwater.This influx prompted plans for a rail-road, but the brain stage was as far asthe railroad went.Greenwater boasted a prominent list ofinvestors: Charles Schwaub, of CarnagieSteel, John Hays Hammond, John Brock,of the Tonopah Mining Company andpart owner of the Tonopah and Gold-field Railroad, Augustes Heinze, T. L.Oddie, Borax Smith, and Patsy Clark,who bought out Fred Birney and PhilCreaser's Copper Blue Ledge holdings.All the prominent citizens weren't in-vestors in mining. There were Lil Lang,Mother Agnes, and Tiger Lil from Rhy-olite, who owned the three main saloons

in the town. Tiger Lil was highly thoughtof among the business people.There were the infamous also. Bad

Man Madison came in from the OwensValley. He was so feared the deputy intown took leave of the area. South oftown, at the base of a mound of dirt androck, are three graves. They are markedonly by three paper-thin and weather-battered markers.One of the graves is that of a mannamed Kelly who fell 1300 feet to thebottom of a shaft. The second is a mannamed Chisholm. It seems Chisholmwent into a bar tended by Bill Waters.He drank up, turned and walked out.Waters called to him for payment. Chis-holm refused and lost his head by a shotfrom Water's gun. There was no suchthing as a debtor in Greenwater.Billy the printer rests in the third grave.Billy worked for the Greenwater Times,and was extremely well liked by thetownsfolk. He had two vices though,drink and cards. His death was the resultof the d.ts.Everyone was shaken at the loss. Billywas first taken to a vacant house and laidon a tarp. A coffin was built from thecustomary pine and lined with black cloth.On the sides were placed dresser handles.Something was missing still when Billywas rested in the box. Tiger Lil providedthe finishing touch. Placing his handsover his chest, Lil slipped a fan of fiveaces between his fingers. Billy was thenlaid to rest.The population never grew to the anti-cipated 75,000; it barely reached its peakat 5000. However, in foresight of a thriv-


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Three defiant but lonely graves epitomize Greenwater.This crude rock house is the only building still standing.

ing metropolis, the city fathers main-tained a Main Street 90 feet wide, withlesser streets being a measley 60 feet. Inthe beginning, lots sold for anywherefrom $500 to $2000 each. On the lotssquatted mostly tent buildings. Lumberwas $165 for 1000 feet.Other commodities, which had to tra-verse the barren waste, came at a premiumalso. Water brought $7.50 to $15 perbarrel, hay sold for $7 a bale, gas at $1per gallon, and ice was hauled from LasVegas at $10 per hundred pounds. Dur-ing the cold winters, coal sold for $100a ton.A rarity for most towns is their ownmagazine. Greenwater had one, theDeath Valley Chuckwalla, and a news-paper, the Greenwater Times, No wherein the sta te' was gamb ling legal, b ut atGreenwater it was. The boys didn't foolaround either, they used $20 gold piecesfor chips.In 1906 the inevitable happened. Themines had run out at the 200-foot level.By 1907 all but the largest companiesgave up and pulled out. Even they finallydeparted. Greenwater was a skeleton ofwooden frames and torn canvas. Soonscavengers from Shoshone came in andhauled away every piece of existing lum-ber. Today, only rusty tin cans, sagebrush, and three lonely, forgotten, androtting graves mark the once boisteroustown of Greenw ater.

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15/44

soT H A TSOMEM AYLIVEby Al PearcePhotos by the Author

From their retreat in the Santa Rosa Mountains desert big-horn sheep watch as man speeds along a highway thesame man who is gradually encroaching on their territoryand threatening them w ith death and finally extinction.

THAN 100 years ago, more than a half milliondesert bighorn sheep ranged the West. Today, only about10,000 remain and their future is insecure.Man, the destroyer, has been busy. In the early days ofthe West, sheep were slaughtered by the thousands. Manyearly travelers wrote about the "tree-high" pile of skeletonsstacked outside western stage stops. Others wrote about thevast herds roaming the prairies living comfortably in a sheep'sGarden of Eden. But the sheep were an easy source of foodfor the pioneers, who had little regard for conservation. Itwas not long before the animal literally disappeared.For a long time, the sheep were believed to be extinct.They had migrated to the almost inaccessible reaches of thelofty desert peaks and miraculously learned to adapt themselvesto another mode of life. It usually takes thousands of years foran animal to undergo the forces of evolution and learn to livein another environment. A few have managed to do this;hundreds of others have perished and are now known toman only from fossils and skeletons in museums.When it was found that the sheep had survived, theywere immediately added to the protected list, insuring theirfuture against wholesale slaughter. But the laws that protectedthem from the gun failed to see the problems of encroachmentand man's vandalism. The sheep are again being threatened.The new range adopted by the sheep is slowly beinggobbled up by roads and housing tracts. The rare water holes,the life blood of a sheep herd, are being vandalized by peoplewho apparently neither understand, nor care.Biologists thoroughout the WestSouthern California inparticularare pleading and their voices echo the bleat of thesmall lamb slowly dying from thirst or starvation. The biolo-gists want a protected rangeprotected from the steady marchof concrete highways and the constant ringing of hammersagainst nails which drives together a new home and, also, com-pletes another coffin for the bighorn sheep.The desert bighorn sheep can tolerate a certain amount ofman, but they cannot tolerate vandalism or total invasion oftheir range. The sheep have been driven from several of theirwater holes, chased from a part of their remaining range andtheir numbers are once again on the decline.Riverside County's Santa Rosa Mountains, west of theCoachella Valley and Salton Sea, is a prime example. Thereare an estimated 500 sheep in these mountainsone of thelargest concentrations in the West. The group is broken into

small herds, each occupying a territory of its own.The small herds owe their existence to rare water holessupported by underground springs. During the long, drysummers these water holes mean the difference between lifeand death. This water is particularly important to the lambsborn in the spring. The young cannot range far and mustfind food and water near at hand. The fact that they oftendo not is evidenced by the number of skeletons found insheep country.While photographing the sheep, I came across a herd ofnine. There were two rams, five ewes and two lambs. All fiveewes appeared healthy and in good condition, indicating there

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44 we will no longer be able toshould have been five lambs instead of only two. Obviously,this is not a very good survival rate. If it continues, it will onlybe a short time before the desert bighorn sheep will be addedto the growing list of extinct animals.

Lamb survival depends on two factorsfood and water.Both are being seriously reduced.A sheep may range several miles in a day to find enoughfood. When the boundaries of its territory are reduced by en-croachment, its food supply is also reduced. Each territorywill support only so many animals. If the size of the territorydecreases then so must the number of sheep.

The second survival factor is water. In recent years, sev-eral of their water holes have been maliciously destroyed. Theyhave been filled with rocks, cans, and other debris. Lambshave been pursued by thoughtless antagonizes; Molotov cock-

tails were found broken and burning around one hole abovePalm D esert. Wh en this vandalism occurs, the sheep are drivenaway. If they find another supply of water, they are fortunate;if not, they perish.Bonnar Blong, a biologist for the California Departmentof Fish and Game, has made a 10-year study of the sheep inthe Santa Rosa Mountains. Some of the water holes have beenvacated by the sheep as far back as 1965, he says. As a result,the size of the herds has dwindled.Due to early agreements with railroad companies, theSanta Rosa Mountains is split up like a checkerboard, withevery other square mile divided between private ownershipand government ownership. It has been proposed that thenorthern section of the Santa Rosa Mountain sheep range beabandoned permanently, and that the government land be

Young lambs must stay near a water hole. When the wateris polluted or destroyed, they cannot survive.


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watch these majestic creatures"traded for private land in the southern half of the range. Theproposal is now in the hands of the Bureau of Land Manage-ment.

The'northern section of the range is more suitable fordevelopment; the southern section is desolate and steep,neither lending itself to roads nor housing developments, butperfect for de#ert bighorns. This would mean a reduction inthe size of the sheep range, and result in a loss of a large num-ber of sheep, but it would assure that some range would remainand that some sheep survive.The future of the sheep in the Santa Rosa Mountains,and elsewhere, depends a great deal on the division of themountains, and on a thorough and comprehensive educationalprogram. The program would be designed to acquaint manwith the sheep's problem. It might also seek enactment of laws

which would severely punish vandals who are contributing tothe death of the species. There is nothing more final thanextinction.To date, little, if any, action has been taken on the pro-posal. Blong says the land-swapping should have taken place10 years ago. At best, even if the program was instituted to-day, it would take several years to complete. By then, it's pos-sible that roads and housing tracts could be cutting into thenow isolated southern portion of the Santa Rosa Mountainsthereby ruining that range also.If this happens it will only be a question of time beforewe will no longer be able to watch these majestic creaturesclimb our mountains and seek their own peace. Instead weonly will see their bones in a museum as another extinctspeciesa victim of man 's civilization.

Author supports pro posal to set aside certain sectionsof land to provide a refuge for bighorn sheep:


18/44

FORT with a FORTEby Ray Herbeck Jr.

An hour's drive north from Los Angeles on U .S. 9 9Fort Tejon was wracked by political turmoil and earthquakes

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' A J

This 1870 photograp h of the main sector of abandoned F ort Tejon shows what rem ained of the 25 original buildings. Wind,rain and earthquakes had taken their toll within a few years. Only a few of the buildings stand today.RIVATE Gustavus Berkelay in his bunk, quietlydreading the blare ofthe bugle, when he be-came conscious of aslow, rocking motionfollowed by a violent lurch of the wholebarracks. "Oh, nonot another one," hegroaned as he ran outside to protect hiscamel.

This is not a tale from "1001 ArabianKnights and a Yankee," but merely dawn

at Fort Tejon, California, January 9th,1857. Before Private Berke and his com-rades left the fort, four years later, theyexperienced a total of 29 shocks. Thiswas good enough reason for their callingthe place "the earthquake post."This tremor damaged all 13 buildingssufficiently to force the garrison intotents while repairs were made. The glar-ing cracks, still present in the walls, bearwitness to the earthquakes, but also towhy the walls withstood them. Most of

the buildings were made of adobe con-structed by a combination of soldier,civilian, and Indian labor. The Indianswere the product of the California mis-sions, and the same skill that built thepadres' chapels, which have lasted forthree centuries, went into building thewalls at Fort Tejon.When the fort was established August10, 1854, it was unknowingly placedalmost astride the San Andreas earth-quake fault. However, even without these

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"glaring cracks still p resen t in the walls

The orderlies quarters is protected today from earthquake damag e by braces. Note cracks in wall. Stall for horses is onright. Horses for enlisted men did no t have permanent shelter until last few years of Fort Tejon. It was abandon ed in 18 61.tremors, its climate was so unhealthilyFort Tejon's hospital always had moremen on sick call than it could well afford.Little sympathy was drawn on this pointfrom the local civilian population.

Los Angeles citizens, chief benefactorsof the fort's protection, had clamored forthe fort to be built closer to town. Never-theless, the army decided to kill threebirds with one stone by placing the postin Grapevine Canyon. From that vantagepoint, troops could police the San Sebas-tian Indian Reservation, located north-east of the fort, guard the pass againstuse by Mexican bandits from the SanJoaquin Valley, and also protect Los An-geles against bandit raids.

When this unpopular decision back-fired in the form of long infirmary lists,Los Angeles newspapers ridiculed themilitary, William Wallace, editor of theDaily Alta California, wrote the fort was"subject to every change and vicissitude20

in nature . . . rain, hail, thunder, light-ning, wind, sand, cold, heat, each in suchrapid succession as to all appear in thesame day."What enlisted men had to say aboutall this can only be a matter of conjec-ture but after considering the outfit thatmanned Fort Tejon, it probably could notbe printed. The post was headquartersfor the First Dragoons, and whateverthe fort itself lacked in action, these

troops that garrisoned it more than madeup. Some of the saltiest, gruffest, tough-est troopers in U.S. Army history, theywere born of the Black Hawk War in1832, and literally forged from Ameri-ca's frontier wars.

The regiment fought against the Com-manche, Pawnee, and Seminole in 1834,and then held frontier outposts untilserving in the Mexican War. Through-out the unstable 1850s, the Dragoonspatrolled the dry mountains and deserts

of California and the greater southwest.Out of this service record some uniquecharacteristics evolved, among which wastheir ferocious appearance. In the entirearmy, only they were permitted to wearlong, Spanish mustachios, and the Dra-goons took great pride in it. Their hairwas long and flowing, and they woreflashing gold rings in their ears. Anotherwriter once said, "They more closely re-sembled banditti than soldiers," and if

not banditti, a patrol must at least haveresembled a party of fur trappers. Buck-skin leggings were popular with enlistedmen, and buckskin jackets with slouchhats were usual fatigue dress for officers.To the contrary, when dress paradeswere held the Dragoons were the show-piece of the army. Riding in review tothe gait set by the regimental band, themen were resplendent in deep blue coatstrimmed in a rakish bright orange. Withtall, plumed shakos on their heads, they


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bear witness to the earthquakes.were a far cry from their field dress.Life at Tejon was not all earthquakes,disease, and parades however. There wasthe serious job of soldiering to do, an dfor two sixty-man companies, thesetroops did more than their share. Patrolsfrom Fort Tejon ranged as far south asthe Colorado River, and north to SaltLake City.

Although Indians caused some trouble,particularly in 1859 when eighty Dra-goons were in the Mojave Desert forseveral months, fighting to keep the roadopen to Salt Lake, Mexican bandits weremore of a problem. Roaming the hillsfreely, in large bands and alone, travelerswere easy prey for them, as were localhorse ranchers.Episcopal Bishop William Kip, whovisited the fort in 1855, wrote concern-ing his trip that it was " . . . strange totravel through a country with the feelingthat everyone you meet is supposed to bean enemy, and is to be treated according-

ly." The Dragoons initiated roving forty-man patrols to eliminate this situation.Three months later, a local newspaperwrote that practically all horse stealinghad been stopped. According to thi ssame paper, $300,000 in horses had beenstolen in the five years prior to the fort'sfounding, but not all bandits were merehorse thieves or highwaymen. Many werecold blooded killers filled with intensehatred for the American "gringo," andanyone who tolerated him.Juan Flores more than qualified forthis category. Robbing and looting mostof the ranchos in the Los Angeles-SanBernardino area, his band of cutthroatsfancied themselves an army of liberation

for the Spanish Californians. After theirmassacre of the sheriff of Los Angelesand 12 deputies, Fort Tejon sent 50 Dra-goons under a Captain Magruder to LosAngeles. Together with civilian deputies,they hunted down the gang and killedor captured them all. Flores himself was

captured by two Dragoons near Simi Passin February of 1857.Camels arrived at the fort in 1857 an dwere used by the troops for long desertpatrols and baggage transportation. Withthe arrival of the Butterfield OverlandStage that same year, Fort Tejon quicklybecame the largest social an d militarycenter from Los Angeles to northernCalifornia, but this Mecca-like qualitywas short lived. The Civil War broughtan end to the fort, and the Dragoonswere sent elsewhere for more importantduties.Fort Tejon is now a State HistoricPark, and steps have been taken to pro-tect the remaining few original buildings.

Several structures have been restored, anda museum in the visitors' center containsmany relics and pictures. Just an hour'sdrive from Los Angeles, it is located nearthe community of Gorman, on theBakersfield U.S. Highway 5. It is apleasant and educational family outing.

This lone c an non pays mute t r ibu t e to-day to the ar t i l l e ry de tachments whichp layed an impor tan t , i f lesser k n o w n ,pa r t in the w inn ing of the Wes t .

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ARIZONA'SBLUE JEANCOUNTRY

by Jack DelaneyWICKENBURG, ARIZONA, about54 miles north of Phoenix as the horse

trots, is a holdover from the old pioneerdays. Its thinking has always been west-ernso much so the Chamber of Com-merce is called the Round-up Club. Thepresident is known as the Boss, otherofficers are Top Hands, and the managerwho does all the work is the Wrangler.Typical signs around town are No HorsesAllowed On Sidewalks, Whoa (a stopsign) and on a watering trough, NoBathsFor Horses Only!It all started when Heinrich Heintzel

came from Austria in 1862, changed hisname to Henry Wickenburg, and snoopedthe area for treasure. After a year ofroaming and searching he found a potof gold that was overflowing! His findproved to be the richest gold lode everdiscovered in Arizonathe fabulous Vul-

ture Mine. During its hectic career itproduced some $30,000,000 in bullion.So abundant was raw gold in the sur-rounding region, it is said that one pros-pector plucked $30,000 worth of nuggetsfrom the ground in a single day at a spot,still known as Rich Hill!

The early ore averaged 60 to 90 dollarsper ton, but some top grade ore wasfound that was amazingly richit ran upto one hundred thousand dollars a ton,and a ton could easily be carried away ina single wagon! The Vulture Mine in-spired others and, at one time, 80 pro-ducing mines were in operation. Rob-beries, murders, hangings, and Indianmassacres took their toll. Bandits becameso bold Wells Fargo & Co. closed itsoffice in the area. Today, these minesstand silently in the desert, broodingmonuments to a robust past.


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The Vulture Mine is not in operation.at present, but tours are conducted dailythrough it, for a fee. There are many taleson the origin of the name. One is thatHenry Wickenburg threw a rock at avulture and it proved to be gold (th erock, not the vulture). Another tall oneis that Henry used vulture feathers fordusting his gold, so he named his mineThe Vulture. I was warned that theseare figments of an old-timer's imagin-ation. It was suggested, by an old-timer,that if I don't like these I should furnisha figment of my owneveryone does!

Along U.S. Highway 60-70, about fourmiles west of town, you'll see the Wicken-burg Massacre Monument. It marks thespot where the Prescott-Ehrenberg stagewas ambushed by Apache-Mohave Indianson November 5, 1871. Six men weremurdered, and a woman was woundedshe died a short time later of her wounds.There is a difference of opinion as to whothe criminals wereIndians or bandits.After a lengthy Government investigationthe authorities were satisfied that Indianswere the culpritsbut some old-timersstill disagree with the findings.

A monument to the ingenuity of early-day lawmen is the Old Jail Tree. In itsbonanza days Wickenburg had no hoose-gow, so prisoners were chained to thisancient Mesquite. It still stands, with itsheavy iron shackles, near the corner ofthe main thoroughfare and Old FrontierStreet. Nearby is an old locomotive, repre-senting a non-existent railroad. Local> boosters sell stock, guaranteed never topay dividends, as a method of raising^money for civic projects.In the 1870s a two-room adobe wasbuilt next to the site of the Jail Tree. Itserved as a hotel and stage stop originally;later as a brothel and as a jail (not sim-

ultaneously, it is assumed). Several otheradobes were built near the original struc-ture, serving as stores for mining suppliesand food, also a saloon. An interestingrecent discovery is that these adobes wereconnected by underground tunnels. Evi-dently the pioneers constructed these earlyday bomb shelters so they could obtainthe necessities of life without exposingthemselves on the street during raids byApaches or bandits.

Whether you go by horseback orjour-wheel-drive vehicle intothe Arizona back country you findcookout chow is deliciousunder the open sky.The Hassayampa River, an apparentlydry stream, supplies water to the town.Freely translated, Hassayampa means"river which runs upside down," sonamed by the Apaches because its watersrun 20 feet below the surface in the sec-tion that crosses the town. A legend per-taining to this river states that anyone whodrinks the water never again will tell thetruth! A natural thought is that, since allof the Wickenburg people drink thiswater, can we believe the tales they sofreely offer usor shall we disbelievethe legend.Be sure to see the Gold Town Museum,

recently developed by the MaricopaCounty Historical Society. It is a museumthat is really different. Here, you willsee large walk-in replicas of an old bank,assayer's office, newspaper office, saloon,gunsmith shop, general store, and manyother shops fully equipped with the old-time fixtures and merchandise. Anothersection offers dioramas depicting eachera from 500 B.C. to 1968 A.D. arrangedin chronological order. In the basement

Desert plants and trees appear asfantastic figures against the cloudysky, creating a feeling of peaceand serenity.


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Having no jail, officers chainedprisoners to the Jail Tree.

you'll enjoy an art gallery and a periodhome, with all of the old furnishingseven a folding bathtub!When you visit this quaint town, wherethe residents refuse to let bygones be by-gones, be sure to stroll up Old FrontierStreet to Ray's Saddlery and SportingGoods Shop. In addition to a wide assort-ment of handmade saddles, he carries aninteresting line of guns and westernitems, such as cowboy hats, boots, belts,and buckles. You'll see belt buckles thatare so large they could be classed asarmor. Mounted on the walls and aroundthe shop are fascinating antique pieces,many old firearms, and oldtime leatheritems that will produce a touch of nos-talgia.

A wide choice of living accommoda-tions await you in this old pioneer village,and they are modern and comfortable.There are five ranch resorts. Motels,apartments, and trailer parks competewith the ranches by offering what is calledthe "Tourist Vacation Plan." Diversions,such as rodeos, horseback riding, squaredancing, desert picnics, etc., are availableto guests for little or no extra cost.One of the most active motels in Wick-enburg is owned by Bill Bass who hasbeen taking photographs of Arizona formore than 20 years. His La Siesta Motelhas excellent ranch-style accommodations.In the Cliff Room guests meet to ex-change ideas and photography tips. Everynight Bass presents a color slide lectureon Arizona. It is free to anyone stayinganywhere in Wickenburg. He'll answerquestions and help you plan your trips.Each guest ranch is in a class by itself.In some the nearest contact you willhave with a cow is a glass of milk! Thefive ranch resorts in Wickenburg repre-sent the best of five different categories.Because of these differences there is aspirit of cooperation among them. Eachoffers a full recreation program, includ-

You can ride alone or with a guide through the Arizonacountry, enjoying the scenery as you wind through the giant saguaros.


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Durin g the Gold Ru sh Daysin Februa ry W i c k enbu rg r e t u rn sto the w i ld Wes t w i th stage coachrobberies, shoot-outs a n d gold p a n n i n g .

ing frequent chuckwagon dinners on thedesert, with singing and story tellingaround a roaring campfire. The gaiety,good food, and wonderful people are notsoon forgottenyou'll have saddlebagsof memories after it's over.Kay El Bar Guest Ranch has thick-walled adobe buildings which lean to-ward the era of Indian-Spanish-Mexican

occupation. It is a quiet, restful, homeyplace with just enough activity for asatisfying vacation, doing what comesnaturally. You'll always remember theancient train bell that rings glad, ringssadglad when it announces mealtimes,and sad when it rings out the traditionalOld World salute to departing guests!The Flying E Ranch is perhaps the"ranchiest" looking of the four. Nearthe entrance, a big red barn with a hiproof and horses horsing around in

corrals dominate the scene. However,the whole spreadliving quarters, recre-ation area, and social facilities are com-fortable appearing and quite attractive.This informal resort features an "opendoor" policy in the kitchen. Guests arewelcome to raid the refrigerator at anytime, day or night. The coffee pot isalways on, and the cookie jar is alwaysfull!Rancho Casitas Guest Ranch is threeyears old and is the only European styleguest ranch in the area. It has one andtwo bedroom apartmentscalled casitasand no regimentation with guests havingtheir own meal and activity schedule.However, like others it offers cook-outs,trail rides and trips to nearby ghost towns.Rancho de los Caballeros is a posh,country-club type ranch resort, offeringa swank atmosphere and beautiful sur-roundingsin a rugged natural setting.The furnishings are a delightful com-bination of whimsical Mexican handi-. craft and traditional early California

Spanish. Whether you are of the "jet-set" or the "let's-set" group, a full recre-ational program awaits you herein-cluding four-footed transportation, ifdesired. This is the largest and the mostelaborate resort in the Wickenburg area.Remuda Ranch has quiet charm,beautiful grounds and buildings, andcomplete facilities. It offers all the regu-lar resort activities, plus four-wheel-drive vehicle trips. An early Arizonalibrary and a private museum, with morethan 2000 Indian artifacts, are here foryou to enjoy. The buildings are framestucco with Spanish tile roofs, and thewalks are laid out with Arizona flag-stone. Lawns, flowers, shrubs, and treessurround the buildings, enhancing thetraditional hacienda setting.Riding is popular at Remuda, with43,000 acres of rolling hills to explore.However, should you be a non-rider,there are many other activities for yourenjoyment. Don't be surprised if youare tempted to request a "kinda slow,polite" horse to try! The managementclaims that they have made more Ridersout of Golfers, than Golfers out ofRiders! The Remuda Ranch was foundedby the Burden family in 1925. It is theoldest same-ownership guest ranch in

Arizona. Should you have any questionsabout the area, just ask Sophie, Dana, or"Uncle Pete." They are always happy toprovide the answers.If your visit is being planned forFebruary, be sure to check on the dates

of the Gold Rush Days celebration. Thiscolorful three-day event commemoratesthe old bonanza days. Bearded men withsix-guns buckled in place roam the town;and women in sunbonnets and calicoswish down the sidewalksand moderngals are excellent swishers! In order toprovide realism, the citizens haul in tonsof rich placer ore and let visitors pan forgod and keep what they find. Gold isking againfor three days, at least.Many other special events are heldeach year. All have a western tingesuch as the Cattle Rustlers Ball, theDesert Caballeros Ride, Las Damas Trek,and Easter Sunrise Services on horseback.To these can be added the free inter-ranch rodeos and gymkhanas every twoweeks, guided tours to ghost towns andabandoned gold mines, and daily trailriding. If you would rather relax, yourfriendly hosts will see that you lazearound in Old West style, with all thefancy trimmin's that's Wickenburg'sway! >


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I N D I A N C A V E O FG O L D A N D B O N E Sby Ben Traywick

MANY YEARS ago, back when goldwas the main interest in California, anold Indian, who lived far up on thereaches of Owl Creek in lava rock coun-try, began to trade rough-cut chunks ofgold for food and supplies.Any miner worth his salt could tell ata glance this gold had come from a veinof extremely rich ore. Everyone whoheard the story or saw the chunks of orewanted to get in on what undoubtedlywas a very rich mine, but the old Indianwasn't having any of that. Nothing saidor offered to him could make him revealwhere he had obtained the gold. All hedid was wave an arm to encompass themountains lining the entire horizon.Men who knew the country maintainedthe gold came from the vicinity of Eagle

Peak. Some who followed the Indian fordays without success claimed the goldwas in the mountains above Owl Creek,near where the Indian and his squawlived.The Indian would periodically show upin one of the tiny camps or settlementswith a small buckskin bag of gold, justenough to trade for the supplies hewanted. Many times the white menoffered him firewater in the hopes hisdrunken words would reveal his secret.

But the red man ignored the offers.Three miners, who had failed in theirquest for gold, saw the old Indian in atrading post one day. They knew thestory of his gold and over a bottle oflocal redeye decided among themselvesthat the Indian should not have this richmine while hard-working white minerslike themselves had nothing. So when theIndian started back in the general direc-tion of Owl Creek with his sack of sup-plies, the three unscrupulous whitesfollowed. Indian and white men disap-

peared into the mountains. The threewhite men never returned.Local complaints caused the arrest ofthe old Indian to make him tell what hadhappened to the miners. Though he wastortured he never spoke a word. Enragedby his silence and the fact he kept themall from the gold, a mob stormed thetiny jail and callously hanged the Indian.After the Indian's death, his squawadmitted she knew where the mine waslocated, but her husband had cautionedher never to reveal the secret. Severaltried to buy her secret and a few wentso far as to offer marriage, but she re-fused all offers.Years passed and the squaw died. Stillno one had located the rich vein of ore.About this time a drunk who driftedaimlessly through the mountains sudden-ly became affluent. For once he hadmoney to buy all the whiskey he wanted.Under questioning and threats he saida few years back he had been sobering upin the rocks of a pass between Owl Creekand Pine Valley. Across from him on themountainside, he saw the old Indiancome down a narrow ledge with a buck-skin bag. He remained hidden until theIndian left the vicinity, then climbedup the ledge. A good distance down the

ledge he spied the darkness of a hole inthe face of the cliff.Entering he found himself in a largecave-like room. The ceiling and wallswere of rock, but thickly embedded withlumps and stringers of dull, yellow gold.He filled his pockets with as much ofthe rich ore as he could. In the semi-darkness he stumbled and fell. He hadtripped over a pile of human bonesthree white skulls grinned at him as helay panic-stricken on the cave floor. With

a cry of fright he ran out of the cave.

After descending the ledge he lookedback. The cave opening could not beseen from below.The gold ore he had stuffed into hispockets brought over $1000. This wasenough to supply him with whiskey for

a long time and he steadfastly main-tained he would never return to the cave.Whiskey money did not last as long ashe thought, however, and once again hewent to the site. Again he filled hispockets with gold and this time he notedthe upper jaw of one of the skulls sporteda gold tooth; just as had one of the threeminers who had disappeared!All this he related to the men in thelocal bar. As he finished his story theydemanded he lead them to the rich cave.The drunk said he had kept the secretfor years, while the Indian and his squawlived, afraid to go near the gold. Buteven with both of them gone he was stillafraid for he claimed an evil presencewatched that place. No amount of briberyor threats could induce him to lead themthere. The watchers missed him at day-break and set out on his trail. They fol-lowed him some distance up Owl Creekthen lost his trail. The drunk was neverseen or heard of again.Old desert men say the Indian's lost

cave is actually the Lost Cement Mine,first found in 1841, then lost again forall time. Some doubt this as the goldfrom the Indian's cave was in roughchunks or stringers, while the CementMine was a conglomerate heavily em-bedded with gold nuggets. Still who canbe sure?It is probable that some of the peoplein the Alturas vicinity or the Black Rockdesert country know where the rich cave

is , but who's to make them reveal theIndian 's secret? 27


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HORNEDHANGOVER

by K. L. BoyntonThis is the first of a monthly series ofarticles on desert animals by K. L.Boynton. The author specializes in LifeSciences with emphasis on zoology,ecology, animal behavior and spacebliology. He is a former staff memberof the Chicago Field Musuem of Natu-ral History and former assistant direc-tor of the Chicago Academy of Sciences.His works have appeared in magazines,books, anthologies, school texts andhave been transcribed into Braille. Hehas done professional work in theUnited States, Canada and Europe.

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Triceratops, a ceratopsian dinosaursome 16 feet long and 7 feet tall,tramped the earth 135 millionyears ago. Its three horns, 3 to 4 feetlong, had the same bony core withsheath exterior construction asthose decorating the skull of thehorned lizard today.

OLD SQUAT and Paunchy, the hornedlizard, a leading citizen of the greatAmerican desert in his own right, is alsosomething of a relic. His armored andspiked face is such that might have lookedforth on the world 135 million years ago,when the last of the dinosaurs stalked theearth.

This 2 to 4 inch lizard is no miniaturedinosaur, for that ancient tribe has longvanished. But he does carry head weaponsof much the same structure as adorned theceratospian dinosaurs, of which themighty 3-horned Triceratops is a fear-some example (16 feet long and 7l/ 2 ft-high). Made of a center core of rein-forced bone, overlaid by a horny covering,these spikes served the Ancient Ones asfirst class weapons whose sharp points,driven in by forward lunges of a heavybody, impaled the enemy.

Today's horned lizard knows how touse his headgear with jabbing thrusts andsidewise flails to fend off attackers. But,being on the little side, this fellow useshis spiked horns and thorny body armormainly to discourage big-mouthed neigh-bors from swallowing him.A creature of open sandy stretches andgravelly arid lands, the horned lizard'sgreatest protection is being able to fade

into the background. Here the bony spikeson head and body do a double duty, help-ing to create such a ragged uneven bodyline that the lizard has no distinctive formagainst his background. Add to this acryptic dusty coloring, and you have alizard that can be present on desertscenery yet quite unseen. Until, of course,he moves. Then he can literally disappear,digging rapidly into the sand using hishead, kicking sideways with his hind feet,weaving his body from side to side.His pattern coloring set-up is of con-

siderable interest to today's scientists. It isa fine example of color-change artistry,for the lizard can adjust his coloringwithin a very short time to match hisbackground. Shifting from light to darktones is possible because of the presenceof cells containing a dark brown coloringmatter in the underlayer of his skin. Thispigment can be moved about. When it isconcentrated in one part of the cell, darkshades result; when, spread out widely,blanching takes place. Action is startedby light falling on certain parts of thelizard's eyes. Darkening is the work ofnerve action, lightening caused mainlyby hormones secreted by the pituitarygland.The lizard also uses this color-changingability to help in temperature control of

his body. Being a reptile, he has no in-ternal machinery to keep his body heatstable, his temperature falling or risingwith that of the world about him. Earlymorning finds him moving stiffly as heemerges from being buried up to his headin the sand all night. Stretching and lean-ing broadside into the warming sunlight,he hastens his heat absorption by darken-ing his skin. Conversely, he can be abroadin the desert day without absorbing toomuch heat by simply lightening the colorof his skin.This lizard is a child of the day, bask-ing in the sunlight, his lidded eyes closed,or bright-eyed and spiky-tailed activelyhunting insects. An ant fancier, particu-larly, he downs them by the hundreds,apparently undaunted by their heavyformic acid content.Because he lives in extremely arid andsandy places where there is small chanceof absorbing additional moisture even ina burrow, the horned lizard has evolvedgreat tolerance to dryness. He gains a

small amount of moisture from insectfood and this is conserved by a system ofre-using water in the body. But this muststill be supplemented somehow. ZoologistMeyer of the University of Wisconsin,interested to see if the lizards had somebehavior trick to solve this water-needproblem, recently set up a lab test. Hisfancy rainmaking machine pattered thewater into cages in which were hornedlizards and another kind of lizards, plusvarious desert plants for familiar envi-ronment. The other lizards promptly hidduring the "rain," but the horned lizardswere out, letting the water fall uponthem, drinking drops from time to time,climbing the plants to drink water caughtin the leaves. When the rain stopped, theother lizards came out to drink, but thehorned lizards had been well soaked bythe falling water and busy drinking allthe time.

Like all lizards, this one sheds his thinouter skin periodically, scraping it off inpieces. The head presents a problem, partsbeing somewhat inaccessible even for footwork. This is solved by the "big-headtrick" held in common with other lizards.Muscles clamp down on the big juglarveins, holding the blood in the head andincreasing the pressure enormously. Swell-ing takes place quickly, the head enlarg-ing to the point where the old skin popsloose.Horned lizards make the usual use ofthe big-head ability. Certain species alsoemploy it to help fire a long-rangeweapon: an astonishing spurt of bloodfrom the eye which can shoot perhaps asfar as 6 or 7 feet. Now this blast, coupledwith a spiky and ferocious appearance, hasbeen known to cause even a hungry co-

Continued on Page 3129


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DESERT Magazine is a gift that keepsgiving and giving. Whether it's for afr iend, loved one, or that special person,DESERT Magazine will remind them ofyour thoughtfulness month after monthafter month during the entire year.

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31/44

trictly

froma

Woman 6

Vi intewpoinThere is noreason why a desert mealcan't bemore than just opening acan ofbeans. One fry pan is the only utensilneeded forthe following:

M A C A R O N I BEEF SAUTEl/2 pound ground chuckY2 cup uncooked elbow macaronil/j cup chopped onionY4 cup chopped green pepper1/2 clove garlic, minced14 cup vegetable oil1 can (12 oz.) tomato juice1 can (8oz.) whole tomatoes (chop)1 teaspoon salt1/8 teaspoon pepper1 tablespoon Worchestershire sauce

Saute beef, macaroni, onion, greenpepper, and garlic in hot oiluntil maca-roni turns yellow. Drain off excess fat.Add tomatoes, juice and seasonings; bringto boil. Cover andsimmer 20minutes.Uncover andsimmer several more min-utes, until sauce is reduced to desiredconsistency. This is fortwo servings only;double orwhatever for more.

DOROTHY M. RICE,Lancaster, Calif.* * *

SLUM GULLION1/2 pound hamburger2 tablespoons minced onion

Salt, pepper1 one-pound can tomatoes2 cans Franco American Macaroniand CheeseBrown hamburger in iron skillet orbaking pan. Addtomatoes, onion andseasoning andbring toboil. Add maca-roni and heat thoroughly. If you haveanoven this is good baked until a crustforms. Will serve 4 hungry rockhounds.BEAULAH JOHNSON,Cassel, Calif.

yote tolose interest inthe lizard aspros-pective dinner.Firing mechanics here also involvetheuse of thethird eyelid, which as in alllizards, is a thin transparent membranelying inthe corner of the eye towards thenose. (Its main function is tomove side-

wise across the eye, moistening the eyeballon theway, andcarrying before it anysand ordirt, pushing itout at the corner,a very handy thing for a sand burrowerparticularly.) The third eyelid is verydelicate in thehorned lizard, hence itsusefulness in the eye-weapon set-up.Wishing to fire, thelizard enlarges hishead andsqueezes down special muscleslocated under the eye. Pressure zooms inthe membrane of the third eyelid, tearingit, and out spurts the blood.The horned lizard is a solitary cuss,going his daily way alone, hibernating insingle splendor deep in theground inwinter. But upon emerging in the spring,things, as iswont inspringtime, are dif-ferent, albeit only temporarily. In mostspecies, Mrs. Horned Lizard lays about25 eggs in a nice round hole about 6inches down, kicks several layers of sandover them, andwaddles off leaving thesun to dothe month-and-half job of eggbrooding. Certain species carry their fer-tilized eggs internally; the hatchlings

arriving live in theworld in duetime.In both cases, theyoungsters shift forthemselves.Oddly enough, there's almost a dead

ringer for theAmerican horned lizardliving in Australia. Its name, Mollochhorribilis, gives us a pretty good idea ofwhat this throwback to an antediluviannightmare looks like. It belongs to anentirely different family of lizards, butalso lives under desert conditions. Thisgoes to show, too, how certain appear-ances andways aredeveloped independ-ently by animals in widely separatedplaces, where like conditions call forthem. Scientists term such a phenomenon"convergence in evolution" and indeedit is a coming-together in the big millofTime.

Time has been around for a long time,as they say. And, while theancient an-cestors of thehorned lizard have longsince tramped away into thePast, their

HORNED HANGOVERContinued from Page 29bizarre descendant gracing the desertscene today looks like a pretty good betfor survival formany aneon tocome.

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A R I Z O N A ' SC O L O S S A L

C A V EINDIANS, DESERT, the Grand Canyon,cactus and cowboys draw thousands ofvisitiors to Arizona. Colossal Cave, justoff the beaten path, is another wonderthat neither visitors nor natives shouldmiss seeing.

The cave in the Rincon foothills is wellhidden, its sheltering hill looks like thesurrounding ones, its rocky slopes camou-

by Kim Owenbyflaged to deceptive roundness by grease-wood, mesquite, bunch grass and catclaw.But its secret has been discovered. It is ahollow hill, halfway up one side an un-distinguished hole leads to a crystal andpearly lined cave so vast the end of itshoneycombed chambers has never beenreached.

While speleologists still search to deter-

Animals and Indians once lived in the cave which is so vast the end of its honey-combed chambers has never been reached.

3 2

mine its extent, the less professional anddaring may also venture into the awesomehole to follow a guide for 50 minutesover handrail equipped walkways, staringtransfixed at opalescent stalactites, whis-pering, convinced that a single wordshouted here 100 years ago must stillecho somewhere in those endless depths,unheard by human ears.

Animals must have first lived here,then early man was drawn by the naturalshelter, the aridity and constant tempera-ture of seventy-two degrees. Smoked ceil-ings and parched bones near the entranceattest to the fact. The cave attained notori-ety in the 1880s when four men robbeda train at nearby Pantano of a tidy sum ofgold and hightailed it to this fantastichideaway. With flickering torches thesheriff and posse tried to follow, gave upand posted a guard at the entrance. Mean-while, back in the cave, the bad guysfound a narrow exit in the cliff, loweredthemselves on ropes and three weeks afterthe robbery were cornered in a Willcoxsaloon. Three were killed and one cap-tured. After a time of penance in theYuma prison, the live one returned toTucson and there eluded lawmen. Neitherhe nor the train robbery gold has beenheard of since. A mail bag, empty of thegold it once held, was found in the caveand still is displayed there. Does the cavestill conceal the loot and the bandit'sbones ?

Today more than 70,000 visitors annu-ally follow the flagstone paths and stairsto peer down through apparently endlessholes and caverns and up to marvel atdrapes and curtains and swinging free-


33/44

form webs of translucent and crystallimestone formations. The cave, carvedy a long dry underground river, alsoholds fossilized marine life, mute proofthat the Southern Arizona desert wasonce an ocean floor. While now the halfmile trail through the cave is well lightedby electricity, a flick of the switch by theguide quickly illustrates the total absenceof light with which the earliest cavedwellers had to contend.Some of the more obvious images onthe spellbinding trek through the caveare the Frozen Waterfall, the DraperyRoom, the Praying Nuns and the Bandits'Hole where the robbers are supposed tohave hidden their loot, but it is difficultnot to find frozen limestone fantasieseverywhere one looks.Easily accessible and only 22 milesfrom Tucson, Colossal Cave may bereached by taking U.S. 80 east fromTucson to the Vail cutoff, then followingthe well marked, paved road to the cave;or by taking Tucson's Broadway east toSpanish Trail and following signs. Thisroute, also paved, leads through virgincactus and brush-clad foothills and bythe gateway to Saguaro National Monu-ment.An attractive, fortress-like building ofstone shelters the cave entrance, a giftshop and an art gallery. A picnic groundin the valley below provides complete

facilities.The cave is open year around, week-days from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. and on Sun-days and holidays from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.with guided tours starting every fewminutes. Tour fees are $1.50 for adultsand 75# for young people. Be you ama-teur or professional geologist, archeolo-gist, historian, spelunker or simply alover of the unique, don't miss ColossalCave. D

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P a c k R a ty James HarriganIF YOU ever had the occasion tocamp out intheTurtle Mountains aroundCarson Well between theyears of 1950and 1962, then you have nodoubt met

Joe, a real friendly guywho would lenda hand tohelp anybody andgoway outof his way to do it. Youmight havethought him to bedestitute, but hewasn't.The Turtle Mountains areone of themost mysterious of allmountain ranges

in theMojave Desert. Lying parallel andwest of highway 95 between Vidal Junc-tion andNeedles, jagged peaks stretchou t in a line fornearly 30miles. Follow-ing a rain in the fall, the flats comealive with turtles, thenamesake of the

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mountains. Within themountains, strangerock extrusions have been thrust upthrough ancient lava flows, and hugeslabs of conglomerates, weighing manytons, have been tumbled about as a resulof tremendous ground movements.TheTurtle Mountains areperhaps best knownas being thesite ofthefamous Lost ArchMine ofthe1880s. Itwas also one of thhomes of the Chemehuevi Indians.I had met Joe early in I960. He wworking around themine dumps in thold Charlie Brown Mining Camp of bgone-days searching forcolors. Tex Bradshaw, owner of theCross-Bar N, hhired Joetowatch over his herd in Ca

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J o e ' s M i n eIllustrations by the author

Vacationat DeathValleyWondersof the West!

So historic it's almost a legend . . . butDeath Valley really exists . . . with all itsscenic splendor. Awinter wonderland, tem-peratures range from a comfortable 65 o75 degrees at midday and a cool 40 to 50degrees at night from November April.

Two modern resorts provide all the vaca-tion features you would want. In betweensight-seeing trips, enjoy a challenging allgrass golf course, two huge swimming pools,tennis courts, saddle horses and relaxinggarden greenery. Of course, food is superbmaking vacations even more delightful.

This year, plan your winter vacation whereit's always summer. Make reservations todayat either:F U R N A C E C R E E K INNLuxurious American PlanF U R N A C E C R E E K R A N C HModest European PlanSEE YOUR TRAVEL AGENT OR CONTACTFRE D HARV E Y OFFICE S :L O S A N G E L E S (213) 6 2 7 - 8 O 4 8CHICAGO (312) 4 2 7 - 3 4 8 9S AN F RA N CI SC O ( 4 1 5 ) 3 9 2 - 3 7 6 0FURNACE CRE E K INN (714) 7 8 6 - 2 3 6 1

The mysterious

196812 Desert Magazine 1968 December

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Transcript of 196812 Desert Magazine 1968 December