Post on 11-Mar-2016
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RESUME
RACHEL MONCRIEFF-‐ROBINSON
JUNE 2014
EXPERIENCE March 2008 to present – RamsayMedia I started at RamsayMedia as their Webmaster across various magazine titles, but for the past three years I have been Digital Content Co-Ordinator for Getaway Magazine. Part of my daily duties include loading magazine content, competitions and events onto the Getaway website, with the majority of my time spent writing content for Getaway online. I also write for the magazine as the need arises. July 2001 to March 2008 – Woolworths As Webmaster, I was responsible for the day to day content of their website, including editing and adding content and graphics onto the website in line with their campaigns, along with product photography for their online catalogue. I was also responsible for the content and design of their online monthly newsletter. Earlier career - Various secretarial positions I have held a variety of secretarial positions, including Personal Assistant to the Chief Executive for three years. I have found my secretarial experience and training extremely beneficial as I have a quick typing speed, a good command of the English language and am highly organised.
EDUCATION Cambridge O’Levels (8) English Literature (A), Biology (A), English Language (B), Art (B), Mathematics (B), French (B), Geography (C), Science (C). Other Short course in copywriting.
SKILLS Computer: Photoshop, Dreamweaver and Microsoft Office. Camera: I use a Canon 450D for my photography. Social Media: Twitter, Facebook and Instagram.
PROFILE
Name
Rachel Moncrieff-Robinson
Date of birth 8 September 1972
Address
8 Gay Street, Lynfrae Claremont, Cape Town
South Africa, 7780
Phone 082 292 1588
rachelr@ramsaymedia.co.za
@Rachel_CapeTown
RESUME
Thank you ever so much for what must be the most delightful article I have possibly ever read. What a treat it is to read your stories, so unique and refreshing and ever so funny. - Posy Hazell (PR Consultant)
Getaway Magazine Pet-friendly travel Pet-friendly places to stay in South Africa, including advice on travelling with your pet. GWM Special Report Using a lifestyle approach in writing about the GWM C10 (discover Cape Town’s secrets), the GWM Steed (a 4x4 experience) and the GWM H5 (discover the Mother City). Town guides and farmstalls From Nieuwoudtville to Napier.
Six of the best Including family activities for the holidays, haunted hotels, festivals, museums and festive markets.
Accommodation reviews Cheetah Plains, MoAfrica Lodge, Black Eagle Lodges, Journey’s Rest Farm, 2B Happy Backpackers Lodge, Ferns Country House, Nesbitt Castle, Bordeaux River Cottages and Montagu GuanoCave Resort.
Events diary Research and compilation of monthly events across South Africa.
Online magazines Inspire Virtual Magazine A girl’s road trip from Cape Town to Zimbabwe - March/April 2013 Deliciously offbeat eateries in Cape Town - May/June 2013 Soup-er spots in Cape Town for winter – July/August 2013 TrendsSA Guide to Montagu - October 2013 Online articles (blogs) Getaway.co.za http://blog.getaway.co.za/author/rachel-robinson/ Winemag.co.za http://winemag.co.za/author/rachelrobinson/
ABOUT ME
Background I was born in Zimbabwe to tobacco farming parents. I had a fairly idyllic childhood with days spent fishing and exploring the wide-open spaces of a farm, which possibly explains my love for open spaces today. Travels Before coming to Cape Town I lived in London for two years and travelled extensively through Europe. I have road tripped through America and more recently completed a solo 7 800km road trip from Cape Town to Zimbabwe in my little red Hyundai Getz. In a nutshell Apart from a love of writing and the open road, I have an enquiring mind and believe there is always more to a place than initially meets the eye. Because of this I am always on the look out for interesting places to go, quirky restaurants to eat at and events worth attending. I am a proficient photographer and do all the photography for any articles I write. I am also adept at Social Media. In addition I am sociable, adventurous and fairly fearless. But most of all, I believe that life is about stories. Everybody has one, everyone loves hearing one and I love telling them.
RESUME
You are a real keeper, Rachel! You are an incredible writer and photographer and so professional! - Lindy-Joy Dennis (Editor, TrendsSA)
Johannesburg may be the city that never sleeps, but Cape Town has a few places of her own that come alive when the sun goes down. Rachel Robinson lets you in on the city’s secrets.
82 Getaway OCTOBER 2012
Burger MondayThe Dogs Bollocks is a new favourite in Cape Town, if you can find it. The entrance is a half-open garage door along a one-way street and I drove past it twice until it was pointed out to me. The chairs and tables look like they’ve come from a car-boot sale and ambient tunes from a BlackBerry connected to speakers fill the alleyway. Chalk-board menus list the various burgers from the New Yorker to Pepperberry Blue. Prepare yourself for the giant burgers,
Curry WednesdayIf Indian food tickles your taste buds and R20 to R30 suits your pocket, the Eastern Food Bazaar is just the meal ticket. The smells of samoosas and rotis envelop you as you make your way through the jostling bazaar, trying to choose your dinner. My favourite is the bunny chow, crammed with curry, which I can never finish. The tikka chicken is good too. Find-ing a spot to sit can be difficult, but pull up a chair and make new friends – you could meet a
cradled in lettuce on a huge bun, as there’s little point in trying to eat this monster elegantly. By the time you leave, you’ll proba-bly have tomato smeared on your face, minced meat in your hair and your hands will smell of basil for two days. Get there early (from 17h00) because only 50 burgers are made a night and once they’re gone, that’s that. Cell 083-440-7843.
Movie TuesdayOriginally a ballroom, The Labia Theatre was opened in 1949 for
live performances. Nowadays, you can enjoy art-house movies in the oldest independent art-repertory cinema in the country. I always feel like I’m stepping into the past with the old- fashioned ticket stubs, popcorn in a brown paper packet and Coca-Cola (or beer) in a glass bottle. You can buy dinner-and-a-movie tickets for two, or pop in to the coffee bar for a hot chocolate and a pie with the arty crowd. A night at the movies has never been so charming. Tel 021-424-5927.
GWM C10 I felt instantly comfortable in this little city run-around. Seats are height adjustable and even though my legs are on the short side, I wasn’t sitting on top of the steering wheel. It may be classified as a small car, but there’s loads of room and I felt like I was driving a mini-SUV. While the boot is on the small side, the back seats fold forward and lie flat if you need extra space for shopping. Back-seat passengers have ample leg room, making the C10 perfect for car-pooling or taking your mates on a night out. Above all, it’s a sporty, sexy little number and a smooth operator. It handles corners well, glides effortlessly along freeways and up hills, parallel parks easily with reverse-assist and looks very smart under a street lamp with its V-shaped chrome grille. It makes city driving a pleasure and leaves no excuse not to get out. R134 990, www.gwm.co.za.
Bright lights, city nights
SPECIAL REPORT
www.getaway.co.za 83
tailor or a lawyer, a mother or a student. The food at this no-frills joint is mostly Indian, but you can also get stir-fries from China or schwarmas from Istanbul. Tel 021-461-2458.
TheaTre ThursdaySandwiched between modern buildings in what was the Con-gregational Church Hall is The Fugard Theatre. Named in hon-our of South Africa’s greatest playwright, Athol Fugard, it’s the most intimate theatre I’ve ever experienced. Be mesmerised by stained glass windows as you’re swept away by a piano recital, immersed in a play or laughing at a comedy show. A bar in the foyer serves drinks before and after shows. If you can get access to the rooftop and are prepared to climb a heap of stairs, the view over the city is worth it. Tel 021-461-4554.
local music FridayMany great South African musi-cians have started their careers on the stage at Mercury Live and
Lounge in Zonnebloem. Estab-lished in 2003, there’s something different every night and, while the cover charge varies depend-ing on the event, it’s always affordable. If you prefer dancing the night away, The Assembly hosts local and international DJs as well as bands. It has a mod-ern industrial feel with a hip and city-slick young crowd. Wind down with a game of pool at Decodance Pool, which recently opened in nearby Canterbury Street. It has a laid-back retro vibe with a cocktail bar, lounge area and plenty of pool tables. Mercury Live and Lounge, tel 021-465-2106. The Assembly, tel 021-465-7286. Decodance Pool, cell 072-123-0263.
sidewalk saTurdayStretching along more than 20 blocks of Cape Town’s CBD is Long Street, flanked by Victorian buildings, mosques and broekie lace. Take a drive down one of the city’s oldest streets and you’ll find a myriad bars, clubs and restaurants. Eat Indian at Masala
FROM FAR LEFT: Just next door to Mer-cury Live and Lounge, a great Cape Town music spot, is this beautiful graffiti artwork by well-known local artist Faith47; Long Street Café is one of the popular places to spend a Saturday night in Cape Town’s vibey CBD; Deco-dance Pool has eight brand-new pool tables and there’s free popcorn every night; get to The Dog’s Bollock’s early for one of Nigel Wood’s giant burgers.
Dosa or tuck into a crocodile kebab at Mama Africa before joining the trendy set at Long Street Café or playing a game of pool at Stones. If you’re feel-ing adventurous, give in to the tantalising aromas of onions and boerewors from a street vendor, but if you prefer to play it safe, the milkshakes at Mr Pickwicks are the best in town. Sip on cocktails down a side street in Julep, sing along to a cover band in The Dubliner, dance the night away at Fiction or watch the action from the Neighbour-hood balcony. Masala Dosa, tel 021-424 6772. Mama Africa, tel 021-426-1017. Long Street Café, tel 021-424-2464. Stones, tel 021-424-0418. Mr Pickwicks, tel 021-423-3710. Julep, tel 021-423-4276. The Dubliner, tel 021-424-1212. Fiction, tel 021-424-5709. Neighbourhood, tel 021-424-7260.
sunseTs on sundayHave a picnic 1 086 metres above sea level on the top of Table Mountain. The GWM C10
will climb the fairly steep ascent to the parking lot effortlessly, but if you feel like some exercise, and have a few hours to spare, you can hike to the top. Go via the scenic and thigh-killing Skeleton Gorge or, if you want a more direct ascent, Platteklip Gorge. The cableway is a faster and easier option (depending on the queues). Once on top, choose a spot among the fyn-bos, lay your picnic blanket next to a dassie and watch the sun set at the end of another week. Table Mountain Aerial Cableway, tel 021-424-0015.
Be responsiBleDon’t ruin your night out by drinking excessively. Decide on a designated driver (bribe them with free soft drinks all night) or call a taxi company to get you home (some will get both you and your car home). Either option will be infinitely cheaper and more pleasant than a night in jail with a hefty fine. Scooter Angels, tel 0861-464-663. Goodfellas, tel 0861-433-552.
90 Getaway November 2012
There’s a loud thumping sound underneath the Steed and I’m tilted towards the sky with eyes like saucers and fingers grip-ping the seat. Krisjan Mouton laughs, telling me the thuds are just loose stones under the vehicle and nothing to worry about. He also tells me that there’s no other way out and we have to make it up the side of the mountain or get rescued by a tractor. With a whole lot of revving, wheel spinning and sand spraying, we lurch our way upwards and finally come to a grinding halt after a final
roar of the engine. Below me lies a sea of yellow, smatterings of white, strips of orange and neat rows of green. So this is what getting off the beaten track is about. I start laughing in childlike glee, ease my fin-gers out of a death grip and take in the astounding view of fynbos, daisies and orange trees on a farm in Citrusdal.
ChiCkening outWhen I arrived at Marcuskraal, I had every intention of trying out some 4x4ing of my own – if my little car could get up onto
pavements, surely I could make a bakkie with wheels six times larger do anything?
This theory started out well when I confidently drove through the gate at the begin-ning of the 24-kilometre trail. Daisies in their hundreds lined the road and the air was heavy with the sweet smell of pollen. Then I spied the enormous mountains that lay ahead, crisscrossed with yellow webs of road and, after a moment of contemplation, I clambered into the passenger seat, giving the driver’s seat to Krisjan, who
runs the trail and campsite with his father and the rest of the Mouton family.
We set off, leaving behind a cloud of dust and petals, and the next five hours were some of the most exhilarating I’ve had and occasionally the scariest; it was like being on a roller-coaster ride in nature. One minute we’d be trundling along a dirt road, the next we were spraying water as we crossed a river. I was sent lurching for-ward, the Steed nose down in mud, and then flung back-wards as we climbed slopes;
Diesel, Dust anD daisiesRachel Robinson headed to Citrusdal to take the GWM Steed for a spin on a few off-road trails and found off-roading is as nailbiting and thrilling for the passenger as it is for the driver.
GWM sTeed The GWM Steed is a dream to drive along pothole-filled dirt roads and would be perfect in a farm environment. There’s plenty of room in the twin cab – I packed all my camping equipment in there with ease – making it useful for families too. While the off-roading gurus who hosted me agreed this is an entry-level 4x4 best suited to lower-grade trails, it han-dled some of the tougher challenges well. It’s perfect for anyone who wants to explore the coun-tryside on gravel roads and dabble in some light off-roading fun, especially as its price tag is half that of other 4x4 vehicles in this category. From R224 990 to R242 990, www.gwm.co.za.
www.getaway.co.za 91
we churned up sand and grap-pled with loose stones, all the while taking in vistas from mountain tops previously only accessible with a tractor.
Back to the farmstead I noticed a hot smell coming from the engine. Slightly alarmed, I asked if it was over-heating. Krisjan chuckled and said, ‘Not at all, it’s just done some work for a change!’
Stop and Smell the buchuWhen Bertie Spreeth from Koningskop came to fetch me the next morning, I knew better than to attempt the off-road trails myself and simply handed over the keys.
There was no flowery intro-duction here. Right from the start of the Petoorskrans Trail, we were scrambling over rocks and having to carefully position boulders for the wheels; at times Bertie had to reverse back up one ravine to build momen-tum to get through the next one. There were also times when I wondered if we’d make it. When
I remarked on the toughness of the trail, Bertie grinned and said, ‘Oh, this is nothing. You should see Klip Hardegat.’ I quickly told him I needed to get back to Cape Town and that I couldn’t leave the Steed in a crumpled metal heap on a mountain in Citrusdal. ‘Ugh don’t worry, we won’t go on that one,’ he said with a twinkle in his eye as he took us down a narrow slope with two wheels off the ground.
Bertie navigated past sharp rocks, through rivers and up and down treacherous slopes as a baboon watched from his rocky sentry point.
There were fewer daisies, but these had been replaced by interesting rock formations and vast tracts of yellow fynbos. Bertie pointed out a protea plant that grows only on that particular mountain and fetched me a clump of buchu with an incredibly overpowering smell.
By now I was quite relaxed about thudding sounds emanat-ing from the undercarriage, but when we heard a louder thump
and the sound of something coming adrift I shot out to see the damage. Having been put through eight hours of being bumped, revved and scraped, it had finally relinquished a body part; laying in the fynbos was a very dusty hubcap.
After two days of jubilant off-roading, I took my trusty Steed – sans one hubcap – back to the city. As I cruised along the flat highway, I realised what the appeal of 4x4ing really is. Not only do you have the chance to challenge yourself, but you’re rewarded with getting to places many others can’t.
Personally, I can’t wait for my next 4x4 adventure. After all, the tarred roads and pave-ments in the city no longer pose much of a challenge.
SPECIAL REPORT
Marcuskraal 4x4 and caMpsiteThe Marcuskraal Trail is a reasonably challenging mountain route with views of the Cederberg. distance: 24 km return routedriving time: 4 hours Grading: 3 to 4 (escape routes provided)cost: R200 a vehiclecontact: Tel 022-921-3540, email info@marcuskraal.co.za, www.marcuskraal.co.za.
koningskop caMpsite & 4x4 trailsThere are two routes on offer here: the easier, shorter and more scenic Boesmansklip Trail takes in some tight corners and rock art, while the more challenging Petoors- krans Trail boasts magnificent views of the Swartland, Cederberg and Sandveld. Distance: 7 km and 14 km return routesdriving time: 90 minutes and 3 hours Grading: 2 and 3,5 to 4 (escape routes provided) cost: From R150 to R250 a vehiclecontact: Tel 022-921-3731, email info@koningskop.co.za, www.koningskop.co.za.
OPPOSITE PAGE: Scramble over rocks on the Petoorskrans Trail. ThIS PAGE, clOckwISE frOm TOP lEfT: During flower season the trails at Marcuskraal are strewn with daisies; the climb to see the rock art is worth the effort; the play pit at Marcuskraal is a popular challenge; Koningskop’s Boesmansklip Trail boasts towering rock formations.
Discovering the Mother City
There’s a reason nearly two million people visit Cape Town every year. It’s one of the most beautiful cities on Earth and the best way to explore this fascinating city and its colourful past is to take a trip around the peninsula. Capetonian Rachel Robinson leads the way.
86 Getaway SEPTEMBER 2012
Every day should start with a good cup of coffee and
there’s no better place to get your fix than Haas Coffee Col-lective in the Bo-Kaap (rumour has it they even stock that in-famous cat-pooh coffee). I love this quirky coffee spot in Rose Street where the waiters wear top hats and rabbits and skulls peer at you from every corner. It’s also in the heart of a neigh-bourhood of colourful houses and cobbled streets that make me smile even on a bad day as laughing kids play on the roads
while aunties keep an eye out from well-worn stoeps. Make sure you buy some samoosas as padkos from one of the cafés as you leave.
The V&A Waterfront is worth a stop, even if you dislike shop-ping malls. It’s come a long way from the jetty that Jan van Rie-beck set up in the area in 1652 as a refreshment stop for pass-ing ships. You can still buy refreshments, but there’s a whole lot more to do at this working harbour, including heli-copter flights, boat trips, a giant
carousel, an aquarium and a host of restaurants and bars. Or you can just sit back and watch boats come and go with seagulls hovering above, squawking hopefully for a scrap of food.
Like him or not, Cecil John Rhodes was a man with vision and if you want a clear view of the city of Cape Town, pop into Rhodes Memorial. It’s a favour-ite haunt of mine in the early hours of the morning where my only company are eight hulking concrete lions looking over my
GWM H5It may seem like a large vehicle, but the GWM H5 is surprisingly easy to drive. It handled the narrow streets of the Bo-Kaap with ease and I found parallel parking a breeze thanks to the large wing mir-rors and reverse assist. It cruised along happily when I hit the highway and, being winter in the Cape, the H5 was put through its paces in all weather conditions. Visibility in rainy weather is clear and the demister works in seconds. The automatic windscreen wipers and lights are a huge plus, giving you less to think about while taking in the scenery. I get the feeling the H5 is happiest on the open road and once you get used to the gears, you’ll find all sorts of excuses to go exploring more often. R219 990, www.gwm.co.za.
above: Table Mountain served as an inspiration to Nelson Mandela during his imprisonment on Robben Island. opposite paGe, clockwise from left: Seals are ever present at Hout Bay Harbour; Slangkop Lighthouse was built in 1919; an art installation at the V&A Waterfront built entirely from Coca-Cola crates; the brightly coloured houses of the Bo-Kaap are a photographer’s delight.
SPECIAL REPORT
www.getaway.co.za 87
shoulder. I like to imagine that Rhodes himself sat in this exact spot quietly reflecting on life, or what to have for lunch. If your thoughts echo his, the Rhodes Memorial Restaurant serves deli-cious breakfasts and lunches.
The coastal road to Simon’s Town twists and bends as you drive through Muizenberg, St James, Kalk Bay and Fish Hoek. I have spent many happy Saturday afternoons taking in the smell of the ocean – and a few pints – at the Brass Bell in Kalk Bay, which was opened in 1939 as a tea room (you can still get a cup of tea, but I’d rec-ommend the beers on tap and its pizzas). Simon’s Town is home to South Africa’s navy and Just Nuisance is only one of the many colourful characters to come out of this town – he was the only dog to be officially enlisted in the Royal Navy. Unfortunately the Great Dane
has long gone (he died in 1944 and was buried with full military honours) but look out for his statue in Jubilee Square.
Next make your way towards Cape Point, where I was once chased by a giant tortoise. You can explore picturesque bays, peer down sea-ravaged cliffs and take a stroll through the fynbos. A word of warning, it’s not only the tortoises who get feisty here. Keep your windows rolled up as the resident baboons are smart enough to get into any vehicle.
Continue towards Noordhoek, looking out for Slangkop Light-house along the way, to the start of one of the most drama-tic coastal drives in the world: Chapman’s Peak Drive. You couldn’t get closer to the edge if you tried and the best way to enjoy the scenery is to be a pas-senger (the driver will get only fleeting glimpses while manoeu-
vring the car around some fairly tight bends). Spare a thought for the internationally acclaimed engineers who erected incredi-ble structures to catch falling boulders that caused many road closures and possible heart attacks. The road is a lot safer now, with the only heart-stop-ping moments being the views.
Grab some fish and chips in Hout Bay and scoff them on the beach or mingle with the trendy set in Camps Bay over a cock-tail at one of the bars, before making your way back to the city through Clifton, where magnifi-cent homes are perched on the sea’s edge. If you fancy a pad here, you’ll need a hefty bank balance as it’s the most expen-sive real estate in South Africa.
There’s only one way to end a tour of the peninsula, and that’s from the top of Table Mountain, with the twinkling lights of the Mother City below.
Things To Think abouT while exploring• Bo-Kaap residents are mostly descended from slaves imported to the Cape by the Dutch.• Rhodes Memorial has 49 steps, one for each year of Cecil John Rhodes’ life.• Slangkop Lighthouse is the tallest cast-iron lighthouse in South Africa.• Chapman’s Peak Drive has 114 curves in its nine kilometres.• Much of the wood needed by Dutch colonists for building pur-poses came from Hout Bay.• The original bungalows in Clifton were built from the packing cases of im- ported cars during the 1920s and 1930s. • Table Mountain (declared one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature in 2012) is the world’s only terrestrial feature to have a constellation named after it.
112 Getaway November 2011
SPECIAL REPORT
When I mentioned to Janine
Eybers at Laborie Wine Farm,
outside Paarl, that I was
pleased the sun was attempting to shine
after a few days of Cape Town rain, she
brightly responded, ‘Oh don’t worry, the
sun always shines for the market!’ Turns
out she was quite right.
That Saturday, the clouds had almost
dispersed and Paarl Mountain gleamed
under the rays of the morning sun.
Birds twittered in branches above
and squirrels foraged in the flowerbeds
while staff at Laborie went about setting
up umbrellas and wiping down wine-
tasting glasses. One by one, cars
Laze away at Laborie Nestled in the mountains outside Paarl is a wine farm that plays host to a laidback weekly market. Rachel Robinson discovered it makes a great spot for a weekend getaway too.
trickled into the parking area and
families emerged, eagerly making their
way to the Laborie Lazy Day Market,
where a world of food, coffee, beer,
trinkets and jumping castles awaited.
Since February 2011, Paarl locals and
visitors from Cape Town and surrounds
have been coming to the market to
enjoy a few hours of good food and
soak up the sunshine on immaculate
lawns. Children can play on jumping
castles and giant trampolines or go for
pony rides in the vineyards under the
watchful eye of minders while parents
eat and drink. It’s a win-win situation
for the whole family.
There’s a coffee bar for your morning
fix of cappuccino or espresso and beer
drinkers can enjoy pints of Forrester’s
draught at The Beer Garden stall.
If you’re looking for breakfast or
brunch, there’s a spread of food that
leaves you spoilt for choice. I did about
three laps of the market and still had
difficulty deciding. Should I choose a
venison pie from the charming pie-
maker at the Great British Pie Company
or a shwarma from The Shwarma
Zone? Having had an ample breakfast
and fast filling up on beer, I decided to
try the samoosas. I heartily recommend
the sweetcorn and cheese variety (as
113www.getaway.co.za
Favourite wine farms – Sponsored by
well as the mince, chicken and potato
ones, actually). You can eat outdoors
at tables that have been set up or sit
indoors on hay bales covered with
springbok skins.
Take along a big basket because
whatever you can’t fit into your tummy,
you’ll want to take home. There’s home-
made jam, bread, olives and local
cheeses along with fresh produce.
If that isn’t enough, The Cellar
Door is open for a spot of wine tasting.
Knowledgeable staff will guide you
through the various sparkling, natural
and fortified wines cultivated on the
farm which, at more than 300 years old,
is one of the oldest wine farms in South
Africa. Enjoy a cosy fire in winter or
soak up the sun and scenery from
the balcony on summer days.
Lazy days and sLeep-oversIf the thought of driving back to Cape Town
after sampling the eats and beverages is too
much to bear, simply spend the night. Labo-
rie has eight French-style rooms named after
its award-winning wines. There’s also a room
in the Manor House, which was built in 1750
and proclaimed a national monument in
1977, where you can sleep in a four-poster
bed, surrounded by antique furniture.
Enjoy the creature comforts of DStv, fluffy
duvets, soft towels and electric blankets in
winter (we forgot to turn ours on, but were
delighted to find they had done that for us).
The baths are big enough for two and there’s
a shower. Enjoy a drink from the mini-bar,
which is stocked with a few Laborie wines,
before heading to the restaurant for a sump-
tuous dinner. A full English breakfast
is included in the room rate.
Take a stroll around the gardens, swim in
the pool, watch the Drakenstein Mountains
glow at sunset and retire to the sounds of
nightjars and owls. With all this in addition to
enjoying the market, one night isn’t enough
at Laborie Wine Farm. You should at least
stay the whole weekend.
The Laborie Lazy Day Market is held every
Saturday from 09h00 until 13h00, come rain
or shine (but you’ll find it mostly shines).
to B&B ranges from R520 to
R1 000 a person a night sharing in the Manor
House. The Manor House can be hired for
private functions with banquet seating for
30 people. Weddings are also held at the
estate, with the chapel in a converted cellar
and receptions held in the restaurant. Tel
021-807-3390, email info@laboriewines.
co.za, www.laboriewines.co.za. GPS co-
ordinates: S33° 45’ 55’’, E18° 57’ 27’’.
This PicTure: Immaculate lawns and a view of Paarl Mountain are part of Laborie’s charm. below:
Local fresh produce is popular and the indoor section of the market
brims with food choices.
The view from The Cellar Door overlooks the vineyards. All rooms are furnished in Cape-French style.
72 Getaway March 2012
he car is packed for a trip
you’ve been looking for-
ward to for ages and there’s
only one thing left to do:
open the back door for your
travelling companions to jump
in. With a scrabbling of paws
and wagging tails, you’re
ready to hit the road.
Travelling with your pets
can make a journey more
rewarding. Pet-friendly
establishments are becom-
ing more commonplace,
so there’s little excuse not
to take along your four-
footed companion.
To help you on your
way we’ve selected a few
establishments and camp-
sites across South Africa
for you and your dogs to
enjoy – bone voyage!
North West ProviNceSaamrus Guest Farm, MagaliesbergThese charming self-catering
cottages are surrounded by
500 hectares of unspoiled
nature, through which you
can take leash-free walks.
Most sightseeing can be done
with dogs on leashes, but
each cottage has a fenced
garden to keep them safe if
you go out on a humans-only
outing. From R150 a person a
night sharing. Cell 072-487-
1733, email info@saamrus.co.za, www.saamrus.co.za.
Stone Hill, MagaliesbergFully equipped, luxurious
self-catering timber cottages
are perched on a hill on a
private farm just an hour’s
drive from Johannesburg.
With great game- and
bird-spotting opportunities
and a five-kilometre walking
trail where dogs can run
unleashed, this is the perfect
escape from city living. From
R425 a person a night
sharing. Cell 082-447-6893,
email info@stone-hill.co.za, www.stone-hill.co.za.
GauteNGPine Valley, MuldersdriftSpacious, fully equipped
self-catering chalets and
B&B double bedrooms are
set on 10 acres of indigenous
gardens. There’s easy access
to walks in woody surrounds
and an added bonus is the
veterinary practice on the
premises. From R300 a
person a night sharing. Tel
011-659-7023, email info@pinevalley.co.za, www.
pinevalley.co.za.
Abigail’s Bed and Breakfast, ParkviewStay at one of the oldest
houses in Parkview and
enjoy tranquillity without
leaving the city. Accomoda-
tion is in a mix of cottages
set in secluded clusters.
Emmerentia Dam and the
popular dog-friendly Zoo
Lake are nearby. B&B from
R450 a person a night
sharing. Tel 011-646-4071,
email stay@abigails.co.za, www.abigails.co.za.
Travelling with a pet is a unique experience. Here’s some advice on where to stay and what to take, to make a holiday with your best friend one to remember. By Rachel Robinson.
Travelling with pets
Solv
eig
Bosc
h
South Africa
Always call ahead to
make sure dogs are
allowed. Some places
have restrictions on the
type and size of the dog
and some allow dogs by
prior arrangement only.
Be aware that most
places allow dogs
to stay for free, but some
may require a refundable
damages deposit. Be
sure to understand any
additional charges or
requirements.
Don’t allow your dogs
on the beds or let
them chew the furniture.
Leave the place as clean
and fur-free as possible.
Plan activities your
family and dog can
enjoy. Dogs don’t consider
lying on the beach a fun-
filled day, but will happily
accompany you on foot.
Make sure vaccinations
are up to date. Apply
flea and tick treatments.
Take extra precautions
if your dog is prone to
motion sickness. You can
get natural remedies from
www.petalive.co.za. Speak
to your vet about solutions.
Be prepared for health
emergencies and
pack a first-aid kit. Find out
where the nearest vet is.
Make frequent stops
on your journey, so
your dogs can stretch their
legs, drink water and go
to the toilet.
Keep dogs on the
back seat. We recom-
mend a Wagworld Car Seat
Hammock (www.petfriendly.
co.za), which protects
upholstery while keeping
hounds firmly in the back. It
can double up as a sleeping
mat or picnic blanket.
As much as they
may love it, don’t
allow dogs to stick their
heads out of the windows
as flying debris or other
vehicles could maim or kill.
Most potential problems can be avoided through careful planning and preparation.
WHY PAYTHROUGHYOUR NECK?
A different take on wine.
Personally, I love having money in my wallet. Love it, love it, love it.
356/m/e
things to consider when travelling with your dog
The farmlands surrounding Stone Hill’s timber chalets are ideal for long walks.
alpine house, PretoriaTreat yourself and your
dog to a self-catering stay
at a four-star boutique
hotel. The fully equipped
units have enclosed
gardens, making them
perfect for dogs. You can
also enjoy the use of the
restaurant, lounge, bar
and pool deck. From R775
a person a night sharing,
specials and weekend
packages are available.
Tel 012-348-6504, email
sleep@alpineattitude.co.za, www.alpinehouse.co.za.
hennops Pride caravan Park, centurionDogs are welcome at this
family resort on the banks
of the meandering
Hennops River. Boasting
all the modern conveni-
ences you could need,
each of the large shady
campsites has electrical
power points and taps
nearby and the ablution
facility offers showers and
baths with ample hot
water. Activities include
4x4 trails, mountain-
74 Getaway March 2012
Travelling with pets South Africa
• Bedding
• Foodandwater(andbowls)
• Medication
• Favouritetoys
• Poop-scoopinggear
• Collarsandleashes
• Identification
• Photoofyourpetincase
heorshegetslost
• Oldtowelsandsheets
areusefulformuddybodies
andforcoveringfurniture
Many pet-friendly establish-
ments welcome almost all kinds
of pets. Most are dog-friendly,
many are cat-friendly and some
are happy for you to bring along
a caged bird or rodent. There
are even those that welcome
horses. The sixth edition of The
South African Pet-Friendly
Directory is a must-have for
anyone wanting to travel with
pets. It’s packed with useful
information on where to stay
as well as travel tips, first-aid
advice and a host of pet-related
services. For more information,
visit www.petfriendly.co.za. You
can also join their travel club at
R300 a year to receive special
deals at participating establish-
ments as well as discounts on
pet products and services.
Towels will protect furniture – and your pocket – from unfortunate incidents.
biking and hiking trails as
well as swimming pools,
tennis courts and a recrea-
tion room. Dogs will enjoy
the walks and a swim while
you picnic. From R100 a
person and R10 a dog a
night. Cell 083-288-9915,
email hennopspride@gmail.com, www.hennopspride.caravanparks.co.za.
De Rust Caravan Park, PretoriaRelax with your small dog at
this tranquil caravan park on
the banks of the Pienaars
River. It’s within Dinokeng
Game Reserve and is shaded
by beautiful indigenous trees.
Each stand has its own power
and water supply as well as
braai facilities. While dogs are
welcome, children under
16, caravan rallies or parties
aren’t permitted, making for
a peaceful bushveld break.
From R95 a person a night.
Cell 083-282-7292, email
derust@mailbox.co.za, www.derustcaravanpark.co.za.
KwaZulu-NatalOysterbox Hotel, Umhlanga Rocks You and your canine will be
treated like royalty at this
landmark hotel. From the
moment you walk through
the revolving doors, you
step into a bygone era of
sweeping staircases and
luxurious carpeting. Look
out over the ocean and
Umhlanga Lighthouse
while sipping cocktails on
the pool deck or enjoying
a meal at one of the restau-
rants or bars. B&B from
R1 650 a person a night
sharing. Tel 031-514-5000,
email reservations@oyster-
box.co.za, www.oysterbox-hotel.com.
Tugela River Lodge, DrakensbergEscape with your dog to
self-catering thatched
cottages on a private game
farm in the central Drakens-
berg. There’s plenty for
everyone to do with numer-
ous walking, mountain-biking
and 4x4 trails as well as
fishing, canoeing, tubing and
swimming. Dogs will love
the walking trails and
swimming in the river. Bird
enthusiasts will enjoy the
large variety of bush and
water birds. From R210 a
person a night sharing (for a
minimum of five people). Cell
082-569-9198, email green@futurenet.co.za, www.tugelariverlodge.co.za.
A Blue Yonder, DurbanThese self-catering cottages
are right on a dog-friendly
beach, so you can take long
walks, go surfing or explore
the rock pools. uShaka
Marine World, golf courses,
shops and restaurants are
nearby for human excursions.
From R209 a person a night
sharing. Tel 031-467-2201,
email blueyonda@telkomsa.
net, www.ablueyonder.co.za.
Shafton Grange House, KarkloofIf you’re after a special
experience, this is the place
for you. Stay in double en
suite bedrooms with all the
comforts you’d expect from
high-class country living.
Relax on the spacious
veranda overlooking pristine
lawns and lush paddocks.
Dogs will enjoy running and
playing ball on the extensive
grounds and well-behaved
hounds on leashes are
welcome to join you on a
stroll through the paddocks.
B&B from R475 a person
a night sharing. Cell 082-
749-9117, email info@shaftongrange.co.za, www.shaftongrange.co.za.
Bills Best, Ramsgate, Margate and Port Edward These popular seaside
resorts are perfect places
to enjoy an affordable
holiday. Choose from a
selection of dog-friendly
self-catering cottages,
each with their own
character and amenities
and all with a dog’s best
interests in mind. All units
have enclosed gardens
or patios and many are
seconds away from a beach.
Solv
eig
Bosc
h
A different take on wine.
356/cs/eWHY should wine be
left to mature? Surely
wine should be ready to
drink whenever you’re
ready to drink?
From R190 a person
a night sharing. Tel
039-314-4837, email
bbinfo@billsbest.co.za,
www.billsbest.co.za.
Crafters Lodge, Sodwana Bay Designed for privacy with
secure fencing for dogs,
this small self-catering
complex offers simple
living in a charming rural
setting. Enjoy a stroll
with your dog on the
beach, go diving in
Sodwana Bay, take a
deep-sea fishing trip or
visit one of the nearby
game reserves. From
R125 a person a night
sharing. Tel 011-326-
0760, email sunrevel@acenet.co.za, www.crafterslodge.co.za.
Ingwenya Lodge, St Lucia This self-catering lodge
in iSimangaliso Wetland
Park offers a relaxing stay
for you and your dog. The
boardwalk and beaches
are dog-friendly and they
can join you on numerous
trails and walks. Enjoy
peaceful surroundings
where small game wander
through the premises. It’s
close to restaurants and
tourist attractions. From
R160 a person a night
sharing. Cell 082-782-
8172, email groot-
krokodil@ingwenya- lodge.co.za, www.ingwenyalodge.co.za.
Sithela Country Estate, Munster High on a hill overlook-
ing the Indian Ocean,
this country estate is the
perfect place to kick off
your shoes, undo your
dog’s leash and make
yourself at home. Self-
catering units provide
comfortable accommo-
dation in a bird- and
nature-lover’s paradise.
Stroll through the gardens
or on the beach, or relax
by the pool while enjoying
magnificent sea views.
From R195 a person a
night sharing. Tel
039-319-2773, email
sithela@venturenet.co.za, www.sithela.co.za.
Silverstreams Caravan Park, Drakensberg This caravan spot offers
everything you could
want from a resort in the
Drakensberg and your
dog will enjoy the wide-
open spaces to run
through, rivers to swim
in and a koppie to climb.
Evenings are cool, making
for a good night’s sleep
with no humidity.
Silverstreams borders
a national park and is
fenced. From R50 a
person a night (including
electricity). There are
also lodges available. Tel
033-701-1249, email
info@silverstreams.co.za, www.silverstreams.co.za.
Umtentweni Caravan Park, Umtentweni The owners of this
resort are committed
to excellence and your
dog will love the large
communal grounds next
to a river. There’s lots
of shade under trees,
a swimming pool and a
playground for children.
An added bonus is the
TV room where you can
snuggle up with your
pooch and catch the
latest movie or series on
DStv. From R85 a person
and R25 a dog a night.
Tel 039-695-0531, email
info@umtentweni.co.za, www.umtentweni.co.za.
Snuggle up with your best friend on the stoep at Ingwenya Lodge,
76 Getaway March 2012
Travelling with pets South Africa
Win!Getaway and Pet-Friendly are giving away a copy of The South
African Pet-Friendly Directory and a full travel-club membership, worth R480.
To stand a chance of winning SMS Pets, followed by your
answer, name, email and postal addresses to 32697 (SMSs cost
R1,50), or enter online at www.getaway.co.za/competitions.
The closing date is 20 March 2012.
Q: Which edition of the South African Pet-Friendly
Directory can you win?
See page 188 for competition rules.
Get more online blog.getaway.co.zaFor more pet-friendly places, read Rachel’s blog at tiny.cc/
RachelsBlog or email suggestions to rachelr@ramsaymedia.co.za.
Western CapeWhale Watcher’s, Cape Town Whale Watchers offers a
selection of seaside accom-
modation where dogs are
welcome guests. Choose
from luxury apartments
in Muizenberg, St James,
Sunrise Beach and Fish Hoek.
All units are dog friendly and
have enclosed gardens,
except for Muizenberg, which
is close to 22 kilometres of
uninterrupted white sandy
beach, making it perfect for
walks and a snoop in the
sand. From R193 a person
a night sharing. Cell 084-
460-5987, email belinda@
whalewatchers.co.za, www.whalewatchers.co.za.
Rainbow Glen, MontaguWhat could be better than
well-equipped self-catering
cottages at a friendly, family-
run establishment that loves
dogs and children? Have a
braai, enjoy the pool on hot
summer days and let dogs
– and kids – play on the
spacious lawn. It’s close to
restaurants and shops and
there are many hiking trails
to enjoy as well as rock
climbing. From R175 a person
a night sharing. Tel 023-614-
1294, email info@rainbowglen.co.za, www.rainbowglen.co.za.
River Magic Cottages, VermaaklikheidEscape with your dog and
enjoy swimming, canoeing
and fishing in the Duiwen-
hoks River. Back-track and
Base Huis are dog friendly,
but we recommend Glory
Be as the perfect hide-
away. Get ferried across
the river to this self-catering
cottage that sleeps 12, leaving
your car, cellphone and cares
behind. From R200 a person
a night sharing. Hounds are
invited to donate R10 each
to Riversdale SPCA. Tel
021-701-3735, www.vermaaklikheid.co.za.
Oewerzicht, GreytonStay in farm cottages or a
safari-style tent on this
working farm where you can
spend your days swimming,
tubing, canoeing and fishing.
There are hiking trails and the
farm is ideal for mountain
biking. Take a short drive into
Greyton and visit the market
on Saturdays or relax and
enjoy the mountain views.
Dogs and children will love
the space to play, the winding
river and farm walks.
Cottages from R150 and tents
from R225 a person a night
sharing. Tel 028-254-9831,
email oewerzicht@telkomsa.net, www.oewerzicht.com.
Klein Paradijs, GansbaaiIf you’re looking to escape
civilisation, these rustic self-
catering thatched cottages are
great for humans and canines.
There are wide-open spaces
and a dam with a rowboat
and canoe, making it heaven
for water-loving hounds.
There’s also abundant birdlife
and whale-watching (in
season). From R275 a person
a night. Tel 028-381-9760,
email info@klein-paradijs.com, www.kleinparadijs.co.za.
Klondyke Cherry Farm, CeresGo camping or caravanning
under pine trees on this
working fruit farm with
cherries (which you can pick
in season), pears and apples.
Your dog will be only too
happy to join you on a walk
through the fynbos or around
the farm. Camping is from
R45 a person a night, but if
that’s not your style, there are
cottages too. Tel 023-312-
1521, email klondyke@lando.co.za, www.cherryfarm.co.za.
Beaverlac, PortervilleA popular campsite in a
secluded valley that wel-
comes dogs of all sizes all
year round. They’ll love
joining you on walks and in
the numerous natural rock
pools. Bear in mind, this area
gets very hot in summer.
Camping is from R45 a
person and R40 a dog a night.
Tel 022-931-2945, email
beaverlac.kantoor@gmail.com, www.beaverlac.co.za.
Wagon Wheel Country Lodge, Beaufort West Stop in here for an overnight
break on the N1. You can
stay in your caravan or tent
or stay at the lodge. There’s
plenty of shade and dogs
may join you on walks,
provided they are leashed.
From R80 a person a night .
Tel 023-414-2145, email
reservations@intekom.co.za, www.wagonwheel.co.za.
Your pooches will have a ball on the lawns in front of the cottages at Rainbow Glen.
20 Getaway FEBRUARY 201320 Getaway FEBRUARY 2013
West Coast graffiti tourMention the word ‘graffiti’ and most people grumble about youths with spray cans. Graffiti icon Falko One is trying to change these perceptions and has teamed up with artist Rasty on a project called Once Upon a Town. They’ve collaborated to create murals on the walls of homes in the West Coast towns of Pella, Mamre and Darling, with the intention of encouraging tourists to visit the dorps. The result is a collection of spectacular pieces of art.
Guides aren’t available, but you can take your own tour. In Pella, near Atlantis, amble along Pine Street East to view murals. In Mamre, park opposite the panda mural – you can’t miss it – in Frans Street and walk up the road. In Darling, turn into Disa Avenue from Evita Bezuidenhout Avenue and take the first right into Akkerboom Street. Don’t stress if you get lost, the locals will be happy to point you in the right direction. www.falkostarr.wix.com/graffitiart.
Contact Marius Opperman at
marius@ekspo.co.za or visit www.ekspo.co.za. Getaway Off-Road Trailer Rally
In association with
• All makes and models of off-road trailers, off-road caravans and vehicles with rooftop
tents are welcome • Incredible prizes in various categories • 4x4 activities • Braai competitions
• Brandy tastings • Many more fun-filled family activities
ATKV Klein-Kariba, 12 to 14 April 2013 Reservations: 014-736-9800 or
kariba@atkv.org.za www.klein-kariba.co.za
Gariep, A Forever Resort27 to 29 September 2013
Reservations: 051-754-0045 or gariep@foreversa.co.zawww.forevergariep.co.za
Sun Karros Lifestyle Safaris, Daan Viljoen Game Reserve,
date to be confirmedReservations: +264-61-232-393 or
info@sunkarros.com.na www.sunkarros.com.na
Kam’Bati River Resort,
15 to 17 November 2013Reservations: 079-200-9098, 072-357-1131
or info@kambati.co.za www.kambati.co.za
Rach
el R
obin
son
‘You have to go to Nieuwoudtville. You’ll love it,’ Rachel Robinson’s friend
said. ‘All you hear in the morning are roosters and sheep. It’s bliss.’ Two
weeks later, Rachel was heading to the Northern Cape town of which she’d never heard (and couldn’t
pronounce the name).
92 Getaway January 2011
93www.getaway.co.za
Dorp Nieuwoudtville
FROM TOP: The sandstone church at the heart of Nieuwoudtville; quiver trees stand sentry over the red plains; sandstone buildings, wide streets and patches of flowers add to the dorp’s rural charm; Nieuwoudtville Waterfall Reserve makes a great day trip from the town. OPPOSITE: African sacred ibises search for insects among a carpet of gorgeous flowers.
• Go to church and spot the horse-drawn hearse.
• Have a braai under the stars.
• Explore the flower farms in season.
• Feel young at the 280-million-year-old glacial rock striations.
• Have tea at the historic Matjiesfontein Farmstall.
• Go for walks and spot sheep.
• View rock art at Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve.
• Don a scarf and hit the open road to Loeriesfontein to see the Windmill Museum.
• Stop in at one of the largest quiver tree forests in the world.
• Gape in awe at the chasms of the Nieuwoudtville Waterfall Reserve.
• Feel part of the family over dinner at Die Nedersetting.
Things to do
e arrived in Nieuwoudtville on a warm, sunny afternoon under the watchful eye of a herd of
sheep and a handful of goats. The keys to Bokma-kierie Cottage were in the post box as promised and we quickly settled in. Word travels fast in small towns and within an hour there was a knock at the door. ‘Welcome to Nieuwoudtville,’ said a cheerful voice on the other side. With that I was handed six chicken and six duck eggs. That evening we had a braai under the stars while being serenaded by a lonesome peacock, a creaking windmill and trilling frogs. Apart from the occasional car on the main road, these were our only company.
Far from being the ‘bulb capital of the world’, Nieuwoudtville is also famous for its well-preserved sandstone buildings and the neo-Gothic church, which is a national monument. Ox wagons carried sandstone from over 250 kilometres away to build the church and it has a towering presence over the town. We were fascinated by the horse-drawn hearse and, having a slightly macabre sense of humour, spent a few moments trying to fi gure how we could have our photo taken in it.
After having pancakes with the friendly old dears at the information centre, we set off in search of fl owers. Despite being told it was a blooming recession due to sparse rainfall, we happily clambered over farmers’ gates to get our fl ower fi x, whilst keeping an eye out for lone stray bulls. There were fl owers everywhere, if you looked (and trespassed).
Soon after, we hit the road to Loeriesfontein, 60 kilometres from Nieuwoudtville, to visit the Windmill
94 Getaway January 2011
Dorp Nieuwoudtville
Where to stayWe stayed at Bokmakerie
Cottage (pic above right),
a rustic self-catering cottage
with its own windmill. It’s
filled with whimsical country
pieces and homely touches.
There is one double bedroom
and another with two single
beds. The lounge has a huge
fireplace for wintery nights
and there is a braai area out-
side for summery ones under
the stars. All linen and towels
are provided, as well as elec-
tric blankets and hot-water
bottles. You will even find jars
of herbs and sunblock.
It costs from R150 a
person a night. Cell 078-161-
9369 or email margie.tromp@
gmail.com.
Where to eatOur meal at Die Nedersetting
was delicious and
the service
great. There is
also a guest-
house with four
rooms if you have
too many cocktails or just
want to stay for breakfast.
Contact Wessie van der
Westhuysen on tel 027-218-
1025 or email nedersetting@
hantam.co.za.
Useful contactsFor more information on what
to do and where to stay, con-
tact the information office
on tel 027- 218-1336, email
info@nieuwoudtville.com,
www.nieuwoudtville.com.
Tinus Coetzer owns the
only garage in Nieuwoudt-
ville and is a renowned
collector of vintage cars
and motorcycles.
Travel planner
Accommodation price ratings A person a night, usually B&B, sometimes full board under R250 R251 – R499 R500 – R750 R751 – R999 R1000+
Museum. The road to Loeriesfontein is straight out of the fi lm Thelma and Louise. It’s a long, eerie, beautiful road; the only living things we saw were crows picking their way through bits of roadkill. I found myself regularly checking the fuel gauge while wishing the car was a convertible.
When we’d had our fi ll of windmills, we headed to one of the largest quiver tree forests in Africa where we walked among 3 000-odd trees, imagining Khoisan hunters hollowing out the branches to make quivers for their arrows. It’s also the only time I have ever walked up a hill with sweat pouring off my face and not complained.
Nieuwoudtville Waterfall Reserve was last on our list. Taking in the 100-metre falls and staring down the deep ravines made us feel very small. We paddled in crystal-clear water, watched others splashing in pools far below and laughed at parents trying to stop their children from going too close to the edge.
That evening, we went out on the town to a popular local restaurant. Die Nedersetting, run by Hester Nel and Wessie van der Westhuysen, is
Getting thereFrom Cape Town, follow the N7 past Clanwilliam and turn
right at Vanrhynsdorp. After about 10 windmills and 100
sheep, you’ll find the charming hamlet of Nieuwoudtville. If
you want to get technical, it’s about 360 km from Cape Town.
NORTHERN CAPE
WESTERN CAPE
Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve
KAREEBOOMSBERG
BOKKEVELDBERGE
KOEBEEBERGE
VarsVars
Sout
Kran
sgat
Klei
nfon
tein
Koppieskraal
Hantams
KleintoringSoetlandsfontein
Nieuwoudtville
0 10 20kmVanrhynsdorp
Soetwater
Brandkop
Loeriesfontein
N7 R27
R27
R357
R355
was delicious and
rooms if you have
too many cocktails or just WESTERN WESTERN
Klei
nfon
tein
a homely affair and you are made to feel part of the community from the moment you set foot through the door. Wessie is a larger-than-life person whose warmth and good sense of humour will have you coming back for seconds if the delicious home-made food doesn’t get you fi rst.
The next morning, we were woken by roosters heralding the start of another sunny day. The locals were at church, sheep were grazing and windmills lazily turned in the breeze. It still beats me why we ever left.
to Cape Town
Doring
127www.getaway.co.za
A group of happy youngsters
were embarking on a
treasure hunt while the tantalis-
ing smell of food from Dave’s
Country Kitchen drifted up to
my nostrils. With a grumbling
tummy, I made myself comfort-
able at a table outside under
an umbrella and started the
difficult task of choosing what
to have for lunch.
I settled on the sweet potato
soup and was delighted to
find it served in a teacup. The
mini bunny chow with crusty
bread and farm-fresh lamb
was also a winner, as were
the salmon fishcakes.
When you visit, work off your
meal with a stroll through the
nursery and delight in the hand-
written labels explaining how to
care for the indigenous plants,
succulents and aloes, then take
Getaway Guide
Rachel Robinson
Roadside rendezvous
Old-fashioned country warmthWhen I read about The Red Windmill Nursery and Farmstall on a working sweet-potato farm near Napier with a nursery, a vintage shop, a sweet shop, a restaurant and a farm stall all under one roof, I had to investigate.
GPS: S34° 28’ 50”, E19° 56’ 01”
Hot tiP: Buy a gift voucher from the Red Wind-mill, which can be used at the restaurant or any of the shops.
a gander at the country fare and
giant pumpkins at the farmstall.
In-between the jams, pickles
and solar lanterns you’ll find
garden ornaments – I was par-
ticularly taken with the mini
windmills. When the hens are
in the mood to co-operate, you
may be lucky enough to pick up
some free-range eggs as well.
Next visit the vintage shop,
with its array of garments from
yesteryear. After trying on an old
hat or two and marvelling at the
antique sewing machines allow
yourself a trip back to your
childhood in the old-fashioned,
pink-striped Cool Beans candy
shop. There are jars of sweets
and toffees of every kind and
colour imaginable, as well as a
selection of memorabilia and
toys from bygone years to com-
plete the nostalgic experience.
The Red Windmill is worthy of
a pitstop on a journey to Napier
or Bredasdorp, or pop in if
you’re staying nearby. Before
you know it half the day will be
gone and you’ll be leaving with
a handful of gobstoppers, a
boot-full of indigenous plants,
a pocket of sweet potatoes and
a hat from the 1960s.
Open daily from 08h30 to
16h00, Sundays from 08h30 to
15h00 and closed on Tuesdays.
Tel 028-423-3576 (farmstall) or
028-423-3843 (restaurant).
dave’s sweet potato, ginger and honey soupwhat you need
Oil and butter
4 onions, peeled and sliced
1 tbsp peeled and grated ginger
4 medium potatoes, peeled
and cubed
2 medium sweet potatoes,
peeled and cubed
Salt and pepper to taste
Honey to taste
what to do
In a large saucepan, sauté
onions in a little oil and butter
until softened. Add ginger,
sweet potato, potato and
seasoning. Cover with water
and cook until soft. Check
seasoning and add honey
to taste. Blend well. Serve
hot with a swirl of cream
and home-made bread.
138 Getaway February 2012138
Rachel Robinson
NapierGetaway Guide
in the OverbergNapier is known for its Sweet Potato Festival, but this little town is also home to award-winning wine, beer and food.
When I first visited
Napier I stayed
with friends in their
country cottage, complete with
purple shutters and matching
lavender bushes. We went for
long walks along the dirt roads,
stopping to chat to neighbours
along the way. We had cappuc-
cinos with breakfast on the main
road, ate homemade pies from
the farmstall and sampled the
locally brewed beer at the pub.
I was smitten. And it’s clear
I’m not the only one – many of
the residents are escapees from
the city who visited the town
and just never left.
Founded in 1838, and named
after then Governor of the Cape,
Sir George Napier, the village is
set among canola and wheat
fields beneath the Soetmuis-
berg. If you visit in the months
leading up to spring, the hills
shimmer with golden flowers.
Strawberries thrive in the area
– as does wine.
Like me, you will probably
leave Napier laden with pies,
wine, art, a tummy full of good
food and Napier beer and
many happy memories. You
will definitely vow to return.
Or you could never leave at all.
g where to eat and drink
Renée Daneel and her wine-
maker husband, Jean, have
turned an old house on Napier’s
main road into an elegant
eatery, Renéesance, while the
adjoining Larder deli and Jean
Daneel wine tasting room, are
set in a converted barn. The
Larder specialises in bread-
making and offers courses in
the art and sells a delightful
selection of cheese, cured
meats and preserves. Mediter-
ranean cuisine is on the sea-
sonal menu at Renéessance,
which changes weekly. It’s
recommended that you book
and, when you do, find out
about the next wine and food
pairing session. Tel 028-423-
3724, www.jdwines.co.za.
At Pascals Country Kitchen
you’ll find almost every table
filled with patrons nursing a cup
of frothy cappuccino – probably
the best in town – with a slice of
cheesecake. This French-style
bistro is open for breakfast,
lunch and dinner. Pop in for
Sunday lunch before heading
home – the roasts with all the
trimmings are delicious. Tel 028-
423-3146, www.pascals.co.za.
The Suntouched Inn is a
favourite for pizza. While taking
on the locals at a game of pool,
you can drink Napier Beer on
tap and occasionally catch a
live band. The restaurant serves
meals throughout the day and,
if you have a little too much to
drink, or simply don’t want to
leave, there is Afro-chic accom-
modation too. Tel 028-423-3131,
www.suntouchedinn.co.za.
Country charm
Napier Sweet Potato FestivalSweet potatoes have been grown in Napier since the 1800s.
The flat stones found in the soil here are apparently respon-
sible for the interesting shapes of the Napier patat and their
sweet and creamy taste. In June every year, the town buzzes
with festival activity. There are art exhibitions, brewery tours,
baking demonstrations, vintage car parades, a marathon and
a mountain-bike race. Scarecrows line the street and a local
young lass is crowned Miss Napier. As you’d expect, there’s
also an abundant supply of potatoes.
Rachel Robinson
NapierGetaway Guide
Red Windmill Nursery and Farmstalll
139www.getaway.co.za
Have a ‘black-pan’ breakfast
on the vine-covered stoep or
take home a fresh bread and
a few goose eggs from Napier
Farmstall. Buy some flaky, filled-
to-the-brim chicken pies for
dinner. Tel 028-423-3440.
g What to do
1 Join a tour of the southern
most brewery in Africa,
Napier Brewery. The micro-
brewery was started as a
hobby by three friends and
in nearly five years has grown
into a well-respected craft beer
brand. Tours and tastings by
appointment. Tel 083-703-8004.
2 Fans of goat’s cheese
should take a short drive
from Napier to Dragonfly Farm.
A variety of cheeses infused
with lavender, wasabi and rooi-
bos are produced and visitors
can tour the farm, watch the
cheese-making process, learn
about permaculture gardening
(for the herbs), and get an oc-
casional nudge from behind by
a goat. Tel 028-423-3112, email
info@goats-cheese.co.za,
www.goats-cheese.co.za.
3 Embrace your inner child
and pop into the Toy
Museum. Tel 028-423-3894.
4 Visit the Dutch Reformed
Church (built in 1838) on
the main road with its teak
interior and beautiful pipe
organ. Tel 028-423-3325.
5 Check your time against
the giant sundial at the
municipal offices. It was built
by Danie du Toit in 1965 and
is probably the biggest in the
country. Tel 028-423-3325.
g Where to shopGrab a bottle or two of local
wine from Vindigo Wine &
Décor Company. It stocks a
wide range of boutique wines,
craft beers, Cuban cigars and
a fascinating collection of nau-
tical memorabilia, old books,
art and gifts. Tel 028-423-3069.
Select a few indigenous
plants and take home country
fare from Red Windmill
Nursery and Farmstall. You
can also stage your own
fashion parade with hats from
Vintage clothing shop and,
before you leave, shove a few
gobstoppers into your pockets
from Cool Beans, a pastel-pink
candy shop from yesteryear.
Parents will love the fact that
there’s a variety of activities
to keep kids entertained. Tel
028-423-3576
g Where to stay At Journey’s Rest Farm,
20 km out of Napier, lovingly
restored self-catering cottages
(sleep two each), pool, braai
area and friendly donkeys make
for a delightful farmstay. From
R450 a cottage a night. Tel
071-688-0024, email nicola@
journeysrest.com, www.jour-
neysrest.com.
Taim-Go-Loer, 10 km out-
side of Napier, is a pet-friendly
cottage. Make every meal a
braai, go searching for blue
cranes or just read a book on
the massive stoep. From R600
a night for up to four people.
Tel 083-457-5027, email napier-
farmstall@telkomsa.net,
www.overbergfarm.co.za.
Set in a beautifully restored
farmhouse, four-star Aletta’s
Kuierhuis’s old-fashioned charm
is interspersed with chic contem-
porary touches. Beautiful original
works of art adorn the walls. The
guesthouse is within walking
distance of the town’s restau-
rants and shops. From R350 a
person a night sharing, including
breakfast. Tel 028-423-3857,
www.alettas.co.za.
g Getting there Hit the N2 from Cape Town,
turn off at Caledon and follow
the R316 into Napier.
ABOVE, FROM TOP: The Dutch Reformed Church, built in 1838, draws the eye through the Overberg to the town centre; interact with the hand-raised goats at Dragonfly Farm; the restaurant at Sun-touched Inn is a favourite among locals.
You’ll leave Napier laden with pies, art, a tummy full of good food and Napier beer and happy memories
Accommodation price ratings: a person a night, usually B&B, sometimes full board under R250 R251 – R499 R500 – R750 R751 – R999 R1000+
www.getaway.co.za 137
By Rachel Robinson GETAWAY GUIDE SIX OF THE BEST
1THE KIMBERLEY CLUB, KIMBERLEY
Wealthy philanthropist Joe van Praagh insisted on building a private bathroom when he resided here. Seemingly he has never left and he may grace you with his presence if you stay at the boutique hotel that takes you back to the diamond era – he’s been seen in the reading room on the fi rst fl oor. En suite bedrooms are decorated in colonial style and three dining areas offer delicious meals. There’s plenty to do in the area, including a ghost tour of the city’s other haunted buildings. From R860 a person a night sharing. Tel 053-832-4224.
2 LORD MILNER HOTEL, MATJIES-
FONTEIN, KAROOThis majestic Victorian hotel was built in 1899 by James Logan during the Anglo Boer War. He may be buried 10 kilometres away, but his presence is felt in
HAUNTED HOTELSAs well as being rich in history and providing comfy lodgings, these
places have a few spooky tales to tell.
the hotel’s lounge areas. Another ghost, Lucy, roams the fi rst fl oor in her nightgown, but perhaps the best-known spirit is Kate, a Boer War nurse who played cards with her patients. She’s sometimes seen staring from the turrets and the sound of shuffl ing cards can be heard from a room on the second fl oor. The hotel is fi lled with antiques and the en suite rooms are reminiscent of yesteryear.From R375 a person a night and R465 a person a night in the main hotel. Tel 023-561-3011.
3 GLEN LODGE AND PUB, CAPE TOWN
Originally the Glencairn Hotel, this family-friendly spot between Fish Hoek and Simon’s Town is perfect to watch southern right whales in False Bay. Stay the night in an en suite room with a view of Glencairn Beach and you may also encounter two ghostly residents. Some claim to have seen a woman and a
little boy on the stairs of the hotel and their presence is occasionally felt when furniture is moved around. Enjoy spirits of a different kind at the Stoep and Swing pub or have a meal with a view at the Bay Café. From R330 a room a night (single). Cooked breakfast on request. Tel 021-782-0315.
4 MOUNTAIN PARK HOLIDAY RESORT
HOTEL, BULWERThis KwaZulu-Natal manor house with its creaking fl oors and Tudor-style accommodation has no less than seven ghosts. You could share a pint with two ghostly drunkards in the bar or bump into one of the three men who reside on the third fl oor. Then there’s childminder Ruth, seven-year-old Matilda and Wisp, one of the only known ghost dogs in the country. Ghost tours take place every Saturday night (R5 a person), with prizes for the best paranor-
mal photo taken. If ghost hunt-ing isn’t your thing you can also enjoy horse riding, swimming, tennis and bowling. From R255 a person a night (minimum three nights). Tel 039-832-0026.
5 ZORGVLIET COUNTRY LODGE,
STELLENBOSCHOne of the Cape’s oldest wine farms is in a region where travel-lers once feared to tread as the dense forest was inhabited by gangs, escaped slaves and wild animals. The only things you may have to watch out for today are the mischievous spirits who open and close doors or play with light switches in the tasting room in the original homestead. Taste award-winning wines, visit the deli, enjoy a picnic or spend a night in an individually decorated room in the luxurious Country Lodge with views over vineyards and mountains. B&B from R990 a person a night. Tel 021-885-1399.
6 FOXWOOD HOUSE,JOHANNESBURG
Is that footsteps you hear or just creaking fl oorboards? This historic boutique hotel in Houghton, close to Joburg’s business districts, is surrounded by lush gardens and has large, luxurious suites. Built in 1924, it was one of the fi rst houses in the area and not much has changed, with antique family heirlooms decorating the rooms – look out for the radio gramo-phone which has been in the same spot since 1936. It seems that not only the original furniture remains. Apart from mysterious footsteps, several guests claim to have seen a lady with a child on the balcony and some have sworn they’ve seen Paul Kruger. B&B from R1 105 a person a night. Tel 011-486-0935.
The Kimberley Club
169www.getaway.co.za
6SOUTH COAST SUMMER
MARKET St Michael’s Beach, KwaZulu-Natal. • 10 to 30 December (10h00 to 20h00 daily, closed 25 and 26 December)On average, more than
500 000 holidaymakers
descend on this popular
destination during the
festive season, filling
shopping malls to
capacity. If crowded
centres aren’t your
idea of fun, take in the
atmosphere at the South
Coast Market. There are
200 stalls with creative
and delightful products,
from jewellery to toys,
décor and gifts. Tel
039-315-6347 (mornings
only), cell 072-305-2585,
www.scmarkets.co.za.
5MOON-LIGHT MARKETS
Bryanston, Gauteng •15 November to 20 December (Tuesdays from 17h00 to 21h00)The popular moonlight
Bryanston Organic and
Natural Market gives you
the opportunity
of relaxed and tension-
free Christmas shop-
ping. Expect a variety
of jewellery, clothing,
décor and pottery. With
good food, live music,
carol singing, kids’
activities and entertain-
ment, it’s the perfect
way to shop without the
usual hustle and bustle
of crowded shopping
centres. Tel 011-706-
3671, email glenda@
bryanstonorganicmarket.
co.za, www.bryanston-
organicmarket.co.za.
GETAwAy GUIdESix of the bestRachel Robinson
3GONUBIE CHRISTMAS FAIR
East London, East-ern Cape •16 to 18 DecemberTake a break from the
beach with a trip to this
popular fair at the Gonu-
bie Sports Fields. Craft-
ers travel from across
South Africa to exhibit
here, so there’s plenty
on offer. With food stalls,
kids’ activities and a beer
tent, there’s enough fun
to keep the whole family
entertained. Entrance is
R5 for adults and R2 for
scholars under 12. Email
marcine@mweb.co.za.
FESTIvE MarketsThis silly season is almost upon us. Here are some fun markets to visit for all your holiday essentials.
2 PURE BOLANd MARKET
Worcester, Western Cape •14 December (18h00 onwards)Escape the crowded
malls with a leisurely
spree at the Green Shed
in Brandwacht Valley.
Browse beautiful gifts and
taste delicious food. Be
sure to pick up cherries
from Klondyke Farm and
take in a festive movie
under the stars. Book in
advance for a steak braai
at R125 a person. Tel
082-301-8561, email
tharina@realevents.co.za,
www.pureboland.co.za.
4IRENE CHRISTMAS MARKET
Pretoria, Gauteng • Saturdays (09h00 to 14h00)Visit the Irene Market
in the beautiful grounds
of the historic Smuts
House Museum. Get
there early so you can
enjoy freshly baked
goods, which sell out
fast. Once you’ve had
your fill of tasty treats,
head to the arts and
crafts stalls and browse
the antiques and col-
lectables section, where
you may just find that
something special. Fin-
ish with a cup of tea in
the tea garden or grab
a samoosa and sit on
a bench, taking in the
smell of the pine forest.
Entrance is free and
there’s plenty of parking.
Tel 012-667-1659, email
irenemkt@mweb.co.za,
www.irenemarket.co.za.
KLOOvENBURG CHRISTMASMARKET dAyRiebeek Kasteel, Western Cape • 17 December (09h30 to 15h00)
The Kloovenburg market is the perfect opportunity to stock up
on gorgeous gifts and delicious stocking fillers. Sample and buy
the finest produce from the Riebeek Valley and surrounding areas
in one convenient location. Don’t miss out on the fabulous range
of Kloovenburg festive season hampers, which feature their pop-
ular luxury body-product range, delicious olives and olive oils and
superb wines. Tel 022-448-1635, email info@kloovenburg.com,
www.kloovenburg.com.
1
Pure Boland Christmas Market
Kloovenburg Christmas Market
125www.getaway.co.za
GETAWAY GUIDESix of the bestRachel Robinson
125www.getaway.co.za
Museums with a differenceDoes the thought of visiting a museum conjure up visions of ageing collections of yellowing parchments, rusting bedpans and dusty displays behind dirty glass? Visit these for a unique trip down memory lane.
1 THE OWL HOUSENieu-Bethesda, Eastern Cape Inside this Karoo cottage, you’ll fi nd
walls covered with coloured glass, sculptures
of camels and a lot of owls. Over 12 years
Helen Martins created more than 300 con-
crete and glass sculptures in which owls are
a recurring theme. Helen committed suicide
in 1976 when she started to go blind and her
home has since been declared a national
monument. Costs R35 a person. Tel 049-
841-1733, email theowlhouse@mweb.co.za,
www.theowlhouse.co.za.
4 CAPE MEDICAL MUSEUMCape Town, Western Cape Get a sometimes-shocking glimpse
into the world of medicine since the early 19th
century. See a dispensary room fi lled with
potion bottles dating back to the 20th century
and learn about traditional medicines used
by early hunter-gatherers. There’s also an
exhibit dedicated to Christiaan Barnard who
conducted the world’s fi rst heart transplant at
Groote Schuur Hospital. Entrance is free, but
donations are welcome. Tel 021-418-5663,
email capemedicalmuseum@gmail.com.
3 THE BIG HOLE COMPLEXKimberley, Northern Cape By the time mining at Kimberley Mine
ended in 1914, it had yielded 2 722 kilograms
of diamonds. What remains is a massive
crater surrounded by original buildings from
the mining town’s heyday. View The Big Hole
from a suspended observation post, experi-
ence an underground mine and see historic
buildings. Costs R75 an adult, R45 a child or
student and R55 a pensioner. Access to the
Old Town is free. Tel 053-830-4417, email
info@thebighole.co.za, www.thebighole.co.za.
2 FRED TURNER WINDMILL MUSEUM Loeriesfontein, Northern Cape
Without windmills much of South Africa’s arid
areas would have been uninhabitable. This
museum, possibly the only one of its kind in
the country, houses 30 windmills of all makes
and sizes in an old school playground. Next
door, you’ll fi nd the Fred Turner Folk and
Culture Museum, which has an interesting
historical collection including an ox wagon.
Entrance is free, but donations are welcome.
Tel 027-662-1023.
5APARTHEID MUSEUMJohannesburg, Gauteng Prepare to be moved as you learn
about the story of apartheid, a state-sanc-
tioned system based on racial discrimination,
through various multimedia exhibits, which
include provocative fi lm footage, photos and
artefacts. Visitors are welcome to make a re-
cording of their experiences or donate items
such as passbooks. Costs R60 an adult and
R45 for pensioners, students and children. Tel
011-309-4700, email info@apartheidmuseum.
org, www.apartheidmuseum.org.
6 PILGRIM’S RESTMpumalanga Step into the bygone era of the gold
rush in this famous mining town, which is
a national monument and living museum.
All the buildings in the town have been
restored to their former glory, including the
corrugated-iron Royal Hotel and Alangade
House Museum, which depicts the lifestyle
of a typical miner. You can also go on a ghost
tour and try your hand at panning for gold. Tel
013-768-1060, email info@pilgrims-rest.co.za,
www.pilgrims-rest.co.za.
iSto
ckph
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com
Dirk
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129www.getaway.co.za
Getaway Guide
Rachel Robinson
Six of the best
Family holiday activitiesDon’t spend the April break tripping over Xbox cables and wishing you could send the kids to Hogwarts. Use these ideas for outings the whole family will enjoy.
1 acrobranch, JohannesburG There is some-
thing for everyone at this picturesque
park. Combining sport and adventure, kids
can go from tree to tree doing exercises that
test balance, strength and focus. Obstacles
include walking on planks and zooming
between trees on ziplines. Adults can join in
the fun on the tougher Lion’s Course. There
is another Acrobranch facility in George (see
website). Costs R80 to R160 a person. Cell
078-438-7463, email bookings@acrobranch.
co.za, www.acrobranch.co.za.
4 bayworld, Port elizabeth With an aquarium,
museums as well as a snake and
dinosaur park, Bayworld is a keep-them-
busy-until-they-drop outing. The oceanarium
recently re-opened, although the dolphins
are no longer in residence, and all manner of
reptiles can be found in the Snake Park. A
highlight of the museum is Africa’s Lost World,
which features dinosaurs from Africa. End the
day with a trip to the nearby beach. Costs
from R15 a person. Tel 041-584-0650, email
pr@bayworld.co.za, www.bayworld.co.za.
3ushaka Marine world, durban This one-stop, all-day
entertainment hub on Durban’s Golden
Mile offers a myriad activities for young and
old. With Africa’s biggest jungle gym, a treas-
ure cave and a giant sandpit, uShaka Kids
World is a haven for two to 12 year olds.
For fun the whole family can enjoy together,
head to Wet ’n Wild for a host of water-based
activities or visit the aquarium. Costs from
R85 a person. Tel 031-328-8000, email
mkt@ushakamarineworld.co.za, www.ush-
akamarineworld.co.za.
2 honeydew Mazes, JohannesburG This urban
escape offers an array of puzzles for
kids of all ages and grown-ups. Have fun
getting lost on 3,5 kilometres of pathways
through a maize field. Going through this
giant maze, groups must complete a quiz
by answering questions dotted along the
pathways. This year’s quiz theme is The
World Under Our Feet, with questions that
change weekly. Costs from R65 a person.
Cell 073-795-2174, email enquiries@maize-
maze.co.za, www.honeydewmazes.co.za.
5 iMhoff farM, caPe town Eat at one of three restau-
rants and take part in various activities
at this Kommetjie farmstead, which dates
back to 1743. At Higgledy Piggledy Animal
Farm children can interact with free-ranging
farm animals. Those older than 12 can enjoy
horse riding on Noordhoek Beach and for the
younger ones there’s face painting and camel
rides. You can also visit the snake park and
browse shops that include a kids’ boutique
and a cheese deli. Tel 021-783-4545, email
info@imhofffarm.co.za, www.imhofffarm.co.za.
6 butterfly world, Paarl Butterfly World imports up
to 800 butterfly pupae a week from
around the world to its 1 000-square-metre
greenhouse. Marvel at the beauty of these
free-flying insects in the tropical garden and
witness their life cycle. The centre is also
home to marmosets, birds, khoi fish, various
reptiles and meerkats. The kiosk serves
refreshments and offers activities such as
beading and colouring-in for little ones. Costs
from R28 a person. Tel 021-875-5628, email
esther@yebo.co.za, www.butterflyworld.co.za.
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Johannesburg : 011 798 3600 | Cape Town : 021 555 3005Pretoria : 012 342 4496 | Durban : 031 303 3572
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PORTUGUESE ISLAND3 Nights from R3 423
Departures most Fridays from Durban Nov’12 to Feb’13
MAPUTO AND BARRA LODGE4 Nights from R3 724
Departures most Mondays from Durban Nov’12 to Feb’13
CHRISTMAS CRUISECalling at Anakoa, Madagascar & Portuguese Island
6 Nights from R11 530Departs Durban - 21st December 2012
NEW YEAR CRUISECalling at Reunion and Mauritius
11 Nights from R18 370Departs Durban - 27th December 2012
FUN CRUISE TO NOWHERE2 Nights from R1 491
Departs Durban 15th February 2013
WALVIS BAY & LUDERITZ5 Nights from R4 445
Departs Cape Town 21st February 2013
MOSSEL BAY3 Nights from R3 269
Departs Cape Town 26th February 2013
HERMANUS AND MOSSEL BAY 5 Nights from R4 165
Departs Cape Town - 28th November 2012
CHRISTMAS CRUISECalling at Port Louis, Mauritius
10 Nights from R15 700Departs Durban - 18th December 2012
NEW YEAR CRUISEVisting Fort Dauphin, Madagascar
6 Nights from R9 900Departs Durban - 28th December 2012
WALVIS BAY & ST. HELENA11 Nights from R9 625
Departs Cape Town - 14th January 2013
FORT DAUPHIN IN MADAGASCAR6 nights from R4 998
Departs Durban - 31st January 2013
FUN CRUISE TO NOWHERE2 Nights from R1 400
Departs Durban 25th January 2013
ISLAND CRUISE Calling at Madagascar, Reunion and Mauritius
12 Nights from R9 996Departs Durban - 6th February 2013
022912 - 275mm x 210mm - Starlight Cruises - Full Colour - English - Getaway.indd 1 2/29/2012 3:34:38 PM
Festivals with a difference 1Garlic Festival Stellenbosch • 1 Sept 2012
Believed to ward off cancer, colds and vampires, this potent little vegetable has been used
medicinally for thousands of years since Greek and Roman times. Join fellow garlic lovers for the
inaugural Garlic Festival at the Stellenbosch Fresh Goods Market. Indulge in all things garlic, from oils
and sausages to breads and even ice cream. At the same time, stock up on fresh garden vegetables,
nuts, spices, coffee beans and locally made goods. There will also be plenty of fresh parsley. Tel 021-
886-8514, cell 072-416-4890, email admin@slowmarket.co.za, www.slowmarket.co.za.
2Bushveld Festival Lephalale
• 4 to 7 July 2012
Don your wide-brimmed
hat and practise your
langarm for the 25th run-
ning of this festival which
celebrates agricultural
activities. Expect cattle
and dog shows, a game
auction and showjump-
ing. Take part in the 4x4
battle or bird-and-tree
identification contests.
Costs R50 an adult and
R20 for kids between six
and 12. Cell 082-061-
1382, email ellisras.bos-
veldfees@gmail.com,
www.bosveldfees.co.za.
123www.getaway.co.za
Getaway GuideSix of the bestRachel Robinson
123www.getaway.co.za
3Gold-Panning Champion-ships
Pilgrim’s Rest• 1 to 7 Oct 2012
Go back in time with
gold-panning courses,
try traditional foods such
as tripe and pap and
potjiekos or participate
in the wheelbarrow race.
The popular pub crawl
includes historical pubs
and shebeens and on the
Sunday teams can try
their luck at gold-panning
to win prizes. Tel 013-
768-1060, cell 082-522-
1958, email brummer-
tours@gmail.com, www.
sagoldpanning.co.za.
4 Cherry Festival Ficksburg
• 15 to 17 Nov 2012
First held in 1967, this
is one of the longest-
running crop festivals in
South Africa. Every year
25 000 visitors descend
on this Free State town.
Expect a jam-packed
weekend of cherry pick-
ing and tasting, farm
tours, mountain biking,
and a pip-spitting comp-
etition. An entrance fee
is payable. Tel 051-933-
6486, email gavin@cher-
ryfestival.co.za, www.
cherryfestival.co.za or
www.goficksburg.co.za.
5Frog Festival Chrissiesmeer • 17 Nov 2012
These wetlands are home
to 13 species of frogs
and once a year amphi-
bian lovers hop to this
town for a night of frog-
catching for scientific
research. This year
you can attend a talk,
followed by a walk to
record frog sounds on
your cellphone, which a
herpetologist will identify.
Expect to pay about
R180 (including dinner).
Tel 082-929-1219, email
mb.lignaut@vodamail.
co.za, www.chrissies-
meer.co.za.
6Chilli Festival Port Elizabeth • 2 to 3 Mar 2013
If you like it hot, this fes-
tival will have your mouth
watering. Expect to find
chutneys, jams and atch-
ars, as well as plants and
seedlings. You can even
enter a chilli-eating com-
petition (as long as you
sign an indemnity form).
Although the festival is
mostly about chillies, but
there are a food stalls
and entertainment for all
tastes, including a potjie
contest. Tel 041-484-
4540, cell 083-350-0676,
email chillifestivalpe@
gmail.com.
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ckph
oto.
com
iSto
ckph
oto.
com
Les
Min
ter
take me there
Once upon a time in Zimbabwe, a young man called Theodore Holdengarde decided his rondavel on a hill in Bulawayo just wouldn’t do. So he set about building a castle. He toiled for 30 years, without a plan, often armed with only wheelbarrows and a small team. Rain washed away some sections and he tore down others. Nevertheless, the completed Holdengarde Castle was a sight to behold and quickly became a legend in the town.
Then Theodore died, his family moved out and his castle fell into disrepair. Fortunately, the fairytale didn’t end there. In 1988, Digby Nesbitt bought it with the vision of restoring the building to its former glory. In 1990, the castle opened its doors to the public as a boutique hotel called Nesbitt Castle.
Towering trees cast shadows across paths and stone griffins watch as you push open heavy oak doors and enter a red-carpeted world of knights in armour, dungeons and intrigue. Marvel at antiques in narrow passage- ways (the bed in the Princess Room once belonged to Cecil John Rhodes) and climb the worn steps to take in the night sky from a tower. In the lush gardens, manicured lawns lead to pathways, over bridges and past waterfalls.
Have breakfast at the eight-seater banqueting table, enjoy a casual lunch in the Irish pub, sip on afternoon tea under a flamboyant tree and then dress for dinner at The Coach House.
Sometimes fairytales do come true. – Rachel Robinson
Walkers River Camp is your chance to feel like a millionaire in an exclusive lodge in the private Timbavati Game Reserve, without breaking the bank. The stylish self-catering camp in Limpopo is a great option for a group of friends or a large family: you get to spend time in a Big Five reserve, escape the crowds of Kruger and avoid having to pay the pretty prices of most luxury lodges.
The camp, spread out on lawns overlook-ing the Klaserie River, ticks all the boxes for a perfect bush holiday. It offers a pool, hammock chairs, piles of books, and a boma with canvas chairs and a long table for sociable drinks and dinners around the fire. You even have your own game-drive vehicle and guide, who will take you into the reserve whenever you fancy, although there’s a fair bit of wildlife to be seen from the camp (we spotted ellies over sundowner G&Ts and a buffalo joined us for lunch, safely on
medieval RetReat
budgetescape
3 BULAWAYO NESBITT CASTLE
Rates B&B from US$85 (about R850) a person a night. cONtact Tel +263-928- 2735, www.nesbittcastle.co.zw.
4 timBAvAti wALKERS RIvER CAMP
Rates From R8 500 a night for the 10-sleeper camp (minimum three-night stay), including guided game drives and levies. cONtact Tel 083-629-6855, timbavati-lodge.co.za.
the other side of the fence, of course). Five airy rondavels are decorated in a
minimalist safari look with contemporary African prints and a palette of bush colours. The art includes paintings by local artist Ingrid walker and pieces collected from family trips to Mozambique and Zimbabwe.Look forward to luxury touches such as king-sized beds, a sunken bathtub and outdoor showers big enough for two in some rooms.
The camp was previously the walker family’s home (they live in a house a few hundred metres away), so the large living space, which opens onto the lawn, feels homely, with comfy leather couches. Towels and linen are provided and the kitchen is stocked with spices; shop for food and drinks in Hoedspruit, a 30-minute drive away. Staff members light fires, wash up, plan afternoon sundowner spots and can cook simple meals for you. If you tire of self-catering, the nearby Josmacs (tel 015-793-2951) is a lively bush pub serving pizza and eisbein.
This is no ordinary self-catering spot. Staying here is like having a five-star lodge to yourself – you can even expect bedtime turndowns. – sarah duff
3 Nesbitt castle
4 walkeRs RiveR camp
32 OCTOBeR 2013
Kerr
y d
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ruyn
www.getaway.co.za 25
escape
5 LEMOENFONTEIN GAME LODGE
BEAUFORT WESTRATES From R495 a person sharing (breakfast R85, three-course dinner R175). CONTACT 023-415-2847, www.lemoenfontein.co.za
On any long trip, especially in or out of the Karoo, it’s a relief knowing there’s reliable accommodation – a good mattress, clean linen and a hot shower with strong water pressure – to break the journey. Lemoen- fontein, just outside Beaufort West, is one such place. Although, since having stayed there, I would happily make it my destination when next seeking some dedicated R&R. The rooms are suited to different styles, needs and seasons. Numbers nine and 10, the most recent additions, are spacious and cool with cement screed floors and views stretching out into the hinterland; for fireside warmth, book into one, three, seven or eight; and if you’d rather braai-your-own than sit down to the three-course dinner, pick 11, 12, 13 or 14, which have private patios. I loved number three, a cosy room with wooden floors and cast-iron fireplace once part of the original structure, which was built as a hunting retreat circa 1850. Also on offer are game drives, a pool with loungers and a sprawl-ing veranda crying out for G&Ts at sundown. And children are welcome. Just brace yourself for Kiki the parrot’s loudhailer-volume ‘Hello!’ on arrival. – Nikki Werner
4 BONNIEVALEBORDEAUX RIVER
COTTAGESRATES From R250 a person a night for two, R60 a person thereafter. CONTACT 084-299-8490, www.bordeauxrivercottages.co.za
The Breede River travels about 300 kilo- metres on its journey from the Hex River Mountains to the Indian Ocean, through Worcester, Robertson, Swellendam and past Bordeaux River Cottages in Bonnievale. While the river may not lap right up against the log cabins, it is close enough for you to hear it in the still of the night and makes for a fun weekend of canoeing (canoes and oars provided), splashing and swimming, or just gaze out over it from your deck in the morning with a cup of coffee in hand.
All three cabins – Shiraz, Chardonnay and Merlot – are similar in set-up and simple, but you’ll find everything you need. Each has two bedrooms with double beds and two single beds in the lounge, making them perfect for families. There’s a bathroom with a shower and while the kitchenette is well equipped, the countryside is best enjoyed outdoors; the stone braai (first bag of wood supplied) begs for evenings around a fire. Eating out is also an option – Bonnievale is short drive away – but there aren’t too many choices available in the evenings. There are plenty of wine and cheese farms in the area, so stock up on both and have a cheese and wine evening under the stars or indoors around the fire.
There’s nothing left to do but unwind and enjoy the simplicity of it all. – Rachel Robinson
RIvER CABINS
KAROO RETREAT
5 LEMOENFONTEIN GAME LODGE
4 BORDEAUX RIvER COTTAGES
Bra
ndon
de
Kock
EscapE
30 june 2014
4 MONTAGU MONTAGU GUANO CAVE RESORT
Rates Camping from R70 an adult a night, family units from R550 a night (sleep two adults and two to four kids), Stone Cottage from R850 a night (sleeps four adults and two children). ContaCt 084-553-4187, www.montaguguanocave.co.za
no matter where you are at Montagu Guano Cave Resort, there’s a beautiful view courtesy of the Langeberg mountains. Pitch your tent in the campsite (32 large, shady sites, each with an elec- trical point, a braai area and a tap), shack up in a family cabin or choose a tented family unit, as I did. With reed fencing for privacy, the large open-plan canvas tent has a double bed, sleeper couch, din- ing area, kitchen and outdoor scullery (which has a view of the mountains). But if you’re really looking for seclusion, Stone Cottage is set apart from everyone else – it’s popular, so book in advance.
Wherever you choose to stay, the resort is a paradise for families with horse and pony rides, animals to feed (including llamas and camels), a playground, pool table, table football and swim- ming pools. Rabbit World is the highlight for kids – here you’ll find six bunny species as well as rats, hamsters, chinchillas, guinea pigs, iguanas and snakes, and cockatiels and budgies fly free. Be sure to take a tractor ride to Montagu Cave (also called Guano Cave) to see the rock art believed to have been painted between 20 000 and 50 000 years ago. The cave also serves as a maternity roost to four or five species of bats, including the Natal long-fingered bat and Temminck’s hairy bat. While visitors aren’t allowed access to this roost at the back of the cave, bats can often be seen entering and exiting. Bats or no bats, the scenic drive to the caves is a fun outing. – Rachel Robinson
5 WELGEVONDEN GAME RESERVE
JAMILA LODGERates Full-board from R1 995 a person a night sharing, including two game drives daily. ContaCt 012-342-9130, www.jamilalodge.co.za
When staying at a luxury lodge, a laid-back help-yourself attitude is about as rare as seeing a pangolin and you can end up feeling just a little too fussed over. But at this Waterberg lodge, after being greeted by warm smiles, man- datory refresher towels and Amarula welcome drinks, you’re encouraged to make yourself at home, waltz to the honesty bar and pour your- self a cold beer. It’s luxe without the fuss.
This refreshing twist doesn’t take away from the attentive service. Mention that you have a particular sweet tooth for jam tarts and they might miraculously appear the next afternoon for high tea.
Five chalets (one is a family bungalow) are tucked into thickets of wild syringa trees, each with a private viewing deck and outdoor Jacuzzi overlooking the Waterberg mountains. The Big Five provide inspiration for each room’s decor, including hand-painted framed artworks and intricately carved brass lamps on the bedside tables. The buffalo suite’s Jacuzzi is hidden especially well, while still giving a panoramic view of the plains in front of the lodge. – Kerry de Bruyn
Luxe LodGe
FaMILY Fun
5 jaMILa LodGe
4 MontaGu Guano Cave ResoRt
FROM A LOCAL TO A GLOBAL INVESTORHOW DANIEL JACOBS* INVESTED IN ADVENTURE
“I’ve always dreamed of one day travelling the world. But it wasn’t something that would happen overnight and so I began planning for it. I decided to diversify my portfolio by investing offshore. I put away a lump sum of R50 000 and contributed R1 500 a month to the Old Mutual Global Equity Fund. Ten years later my investment has grown to R739 254 (that’s a 16.3% return a year). I’m now travelling the world, seeing the places I’ve always wanted to see.”
GREAT THINGS HAPPEN TOMORROWWHEN YOU START INVESTING TODAY
Make Old Mutual Investment Group your investment partner today. Contact your Old Mutual Financial Adviser or Broker, call 0860 INVEST (468378) or visit www.omut.co.za/myglobaltravel
Old Mutual Investment Group (Pty) Limited is a licensed financial services provider. Unit trusts are generally medium- to long-term investments. Past performance is no indication of future growth. Shorter-term fluctuations can occur as your investment moves in line with the markets. Fluctuations or movements in exchange rates may cause the value of underlying international investments to go up or down. Unit trusts can engage in borrowing and scrip lending. Fund valuations take place on a daily basis at approximately 15h00 on a forward pricing basis. The fund’s TER reflects the percentage of the average Net Asset Value of the portfolio that was incurred as charges, levies and fees related to the management of the portfolio. Premium increased in line with inflation at 6%. Distribution reinvested. *Based on average customer experience but actual investment returns.
1001
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142 Getaway october 2012
Getaway Guide Quick EscapEs By Fatima Jakoet
TRANQUIL RETREAT
WESTERN CAPE
BLACK EAGLE LODGES
teL 028-212-2113eMaiL info@blackeaglelodges.co.zaweB www.blackeaglelodges.co.zaPRiCe From R1 300 a night for the lodge and from R2 000 a night for the villa. Both sleep up to six guests. Specials avail-able for couples.
Built using stones from the mountain behind it, the villa at Black Eagle Lodges is modern country-chic in the heart of the rolling hills of the Overberg. It has four comfortable loungers on the large veranda begging to be napped on, so I spent a lot of time doing just that, interspersed with ambles through paddocks, along farm roads and past dams, marvelling at the bird life while keeping an eye out for the leopard whose footprint has been framed in the villa.
Accommodation is self catering and you’ll find a well-equipped kitchen along with a spacious dining table and outside table. There are three en suite bedrooms with king-size beds (twin beds can be arranged) and two of the rooms have wood-burning stoves (I had little need for these as the duvets were so warm). All rooms have doors leading out-side and if you’re lucky you may see a duiker nibbling on the green lawn in the early hours of the morning.
Daydreaming or stargazing are perfect pastimes here, but you can also hike up the moun-tain, go mountain biking, visit
the nearby wine farms, go whale-watching in Hermanus or spend time at the Caledon Casino and Spa. The outdoor braai area is a great spot from which to watch the sun set and chilly evenings can be enjoyed around the indoor fireplace.Why WE LIKE IT The lodge and the villa are far apart, so you have complete privacy, and it’s just 90 minutes from Cape Town, so there’s no long drive to get to the wide-open spaces. The views are gorgeous and there is great delight to be found in the simplicity of country living.NEEd To KNoW In dry seasons, the dam in front of the villa may not be as full as it appears on the website, but there are other dams on the farm within walk-ing distance. There’s wifi, but no electricity and the power is solar generated.Rachel Robinson
112 Getaway FEBRUARY 2013
getaway guide quick escapes By Fatima Jakoet
SPOIL YOURSELF
MPUMALANGA
CHEETAH PLAINS PRIVATE GAME RESERVE
teL 013-751-3270eMaiL reservations@cheetahplains.comweB www.cheetahplains.comPRiCe From R2 795 a person a night sharing, inclusive of meals, tea and coffee and two game-drive activities.
A man with a beaming grin held out a tray decorated with brilliant pink bougainvillea blos-soms. ‘Welcome to Cheetah Plains,’ he said, as I chose a brightly coloured cocktail gar-nished with expertly carved apple and orange peels. The ensuing days at Cheetah Plains in Sabi Sand Reserve started at 06h30 with a gentle knocking at my door for a morning game drive, which included pit stops by a dam or on a koppie for coffee and muffins. Then it was back to camp for brunch, which included cereals, bacon and eggs and the option of lasagne or cottage pie.
The rest of the day is yours and you can choose to relax at the poolside overlooking a dam and its resident hippos, book a facial or massage at the on-site spa or do whatever builds up an appetite for high tea before your next game drive. These sometimes extend into the night and you could see owls, bright-eyed bushbabies, a pride of lion setting out on a hunt or even an elusive leopard.
Return to the lodge for more cocktails and end the day with a three-course dinner in the dining room or around a fire in the boma.
Accommodation is in thatched chalets dotted in an indigenous garden. The air-conditioned, en suite rooms are cheerful and every night your bed is turned down, cov-ered with a mosquito net and you’ll find a treat on your pillow. The gentle humming of bees and chatting of birds as dawn breaks adds to this wonderfully sublime bush experience.WHY WE LIkE IT You spend about eight hours a day on game drives; the rest of the time you’re indulging in sump-tuous meals, taking naps, basking in the sun by the pool or having a massage. It’s everything a break should
be: a respite from everyday routine where you’re forced to do nothing but unwind.NEEd TO kNOW There is an electric boundary fence to keep larger game out of the camp, but not everything is kept at bay, so check the sand around your chalet in the morning for hyena or leopard spoor (all guests are escorted to chalets in the evenings to ensure their safety). Not all rustling in the bush needs to be alarming though and resident bush-buck wander freely through the camp and cheeky hornbills may attempt to steal a morsel from your plate at brunch. Rachel Robinson
158 Getaway december 2012
getaway guide quick escapes
BACKPACKERS
GAUTENG
2B HAPPY BACKPACKERS LODGE
teL 087-807-8338 eMaiL info@2bhappy.co.zaweB www.2bhappy.co.zaPRiCe Dorms are R100 a per-son a night. The Romance Room and Earth Cottage is R320 a night for two people, R160 a night for one person.
There’s something rather endearing about arriving at this backpackers in Yeoville, Johan-nesburg, with its cheerful name and getting a welcome hug from Patience Ndlovu, who has been greeting guests this way for six years. Then a pot of tea is made using a kettle on an old gas stove, and while you drink your cuppa you can read the graffiti of comments left behind by happy travellers on the kitchen walls. It’s all very homely and everything you could need is within walking distance. It’s on a Baz Bus route and many tours (including walking tours of
Joburg and trips to Kruger National Park) are available. It’s an eco-friendly backpackers too – rainwater is collected in tanks to water the garden, heating is provided by gas and recycling is encouraged.
There are two cheerful dorms sleeping four and six and these share a bathroom. If you prefer more privacy, there’s the Romance Room with a double bed, private open-plan bath-room and a quaint fireplace and Earth Cottage with its own shower and toilet. Linen is pro-vided with towels at an addition-
al cost. The comfy lounge has DStv, board games, plenty of books and a pool table. The courtyard has a braai area, a pub-style bench and a mini lapa for evenings spent under the stars sharing travel tales.
Meals can be prepared in the communal kitchen, but if you’re feeling adventurous take a short walk to Raleigh Street where a world of African culinary delights from Ethiopia, Mozambique and Kenya await you. Tea and coffee is provided and breakfast and dinner can be made on request. There are no bar facilities, but
again a short walk will take you to the local bars and clubs.WHY WE liKE iT The house is old and a little worn, but it’s clean, filled with love and has a relaxed vibe.NEEd To KNoW Yeoville is not considered by many Joburg inhabitants to be a reputable area, but I never felt unsafe and found the residents friendly and welcoming. Provided you have some street savvy and don’t wander the streets alone late at night, you’ll have a fun experi-ence in this vibrant suburb. Rachel Robinson
94 Getaway June 2013
great escapes
FIT FOR A KINGNORTH WEST PROVINCE
FERNS COUNTRY HOUSE
RATES B&B from R690 a person a night sharing.CONTACT Tel 018-381-5971, email ferns@worldonline.co.za.
On 17 May 1900, Colonel Mahon and Lord Roberts led British troops into the town of Mafeking (now known as Mafikeng or Mahekeng) and lifted the siege that had held the town captive by Boer troops for several months. This sparked jubilation in London and a new English word was coined: to maffick means ‘to revel inordinately or celebrate extravagantly’. When I saw my lodgings at Ferns Guest House after a long drive ending in a thunderstorm, I had my own little maffick!
The Royal Fern Suite was indeed fit for royalty with its king-sized bed, a table with plush chairs, and an antique writing desk. My greatest delight was the en-suite bathroom with gleaming black tiles, soft bathmats and fluffy white towels. It was almost as big as the bedroom and I had a tough time deciding whether to use the
extra-large shower or the spa bath. After a good night’s sleep cocooned in cot-
ton sheets, I headed to the dining area and was met with charming décor, including quirky paintings, pitchforks and ornamental birdcages. A vase of flowers adorned every table and I loved the pink rose serviette hold-ers. It was a beautiful day, so I opted to sit at a table next to the pool where I indulged in French toast generously topped with bacon, maple syrup and cheese. It was all so good that I was a little sad the town was no longer under siege; I could easily have stayed at this cosy guest house for months.
WHY WE LIKE IT Apart from beautifully dec-orated rooms, a verdant garden and cheerful dining room, manager Nadja Coetzee goes out of her way to chat to all guests. She’s hosted newlyweds, passing-through travellers and South African presidents, so no request is too big or too small. She was a great help with my Botswana border post queries and helped me find my way round the chaotic streets of Mafikeng.
NEED TO KNOW Mafikeng may be the capital of the North West Province, but little has been done to upkeep the roads, so watch out for potholes, especially if you’re driving at night or in the rain. Rachel Robinson
158 Getaway November 2011158
Quick escapesGetaway Guide
g western CapeWhen last did you open a farm gate? At
Journey’s Rest Farm, 20 kilometres from
Napier, you will need to get out the car and
open and close the gate. I was delighted
with this novelty, which reminded me of my
childhood years on a farm.
The two self-catering cottages are part
of the building renovations that Nicola and
Ryan Thomas embarked on after buying the
dilapidated 20-hectare farm in 2008. There
was no electricity, an outhouse and water
came from a tank built in 1960. Now you’ll
find comforts such as heating panels, tea-
and coffee-making facilities and fluffy towels.
There’s a swimming pool and a braai
area, with wood supplied, and Dorethea
se Plek has a flat screen TV with DStv as
well as a selection of board games. Both
cottages have a double bed, bathroom,
sleeper couch in the lounge, fully equipped
kitchen and a fireplace. We were enchanted
by the blackboard in Die Hoenderhok, com-
plete with a box of chalk for those wanting
to express their creative side or leave a kind
note for the hosts.
While essentially a sheep farm, it also pro-
vides a home to horses and donkeys from
the city. Guests are welcome to meet the
animals and get involved at feeding times.
The two cottages aren’t let out separately,
so you can be assured you’ll have the place
to yourselves. Just be sure to close the
gate behind you, or you could be sharing
your braai salad with a flock of sheep.
Rachel Robinson
From R450 a night for a cottage. Cell
Nicola 071-688-0024 or Ryan 082-921-
2160, email nicola@journeysrest.com,
www.journeysrest.com.
Farm living and loving it
Win! two nights for two people at
Journey’s Rest, worth R1 000.
SMS Journey, followed by your
answer, name, email and postal
addresses to 32697 (SMSs cost
R1,50), or enter online at www.geta-
way.co.za/competitions. The closing
date is 22 November 2011.
Q: How many cottages are there
at Journey’s rest?
See competition rules on page 201.
g KwaZulu-NatalAs kids enjoy the animals and shows
at PheZulu Safari Park, folks, families
and couples can experience a peaceful
stay with magnificent views. Set in the
Valley of a Thousand Hills, just 35 kilo-
metres from Durban, this park has
comfortable self-catering and B&B
accommodation suitable for a quick,
affordable getaway.
The main lodge has three double
rooms and a main room (sleeps two to
four) with a spa bath and sauna. The
communal lounge is cosy with its bar
and pool table and when the weather’s
good you can take a dip in the swim-
ming pool or chill on your private patio
leading onto a large lawn. There are
two self-catering family chalets (sleep
four to six) and a two-sleeper rondavel
suitable for a romantic break, with a
kitchenette and braai area.
Although day visits are popular
because of the curio shop, Boma
restaurant and art gallery, overnight
stays are definitely recommended.
There are daily one-hour game drives
and kids will enjoy the crocodile and
snake parks as well as Zulu dancing
and cultural experience with the resi-
dent Gasa clan.
Fatima Jakoet
B&B from R225 a person a night
sharing, other accommodation from
R500 a unit. Game drives are R200,
croc and snake park tours are R40
and the Zulu cultural experience is
R90 a person. Tel 031-777-1000,
email info@phezulusafaripark.co.za,
www.phezulusafaripark.co.za.
A fun-filled family spot
130 Getaway april 2013
getaway guide quick escapes
of alarm clock. Not the hum of traffic you’d expect in Johan-nesburg, but a rooster crowing at dawn. Why We like it The lodge has a distinct African feel to it with ethnic prints and portraits, but without being overbearing. The rooms are big and perfect for families as each has a king-sized and a single bed. Tours offered include day trips to Soweto and Pilanesberg,
AFFORDABle eSCAPe
GAUteNG
MOAFRikA LODGE
teL 082-506-9641eMaiL info@moafrika.comweB www.moafrika.comPRiCe From R350 a person a night sharing, including breakfast and airport transfers (if required). Guests get dis-counts on various day tours.
As I drove past smallholdings, kraals and signs offering me sheep for R950 and farm-fresh eggs, I began to wonder if I’d really left OR Tambo airport just 15 minutes earlier; I felt more like I’d arrived in a small farming town, not Benoni.
A dirt road took me to the gates of MoAfrika Lodge where I was greeted by three enthu-siastic Rottweilers, while chick-ens scratched under garden furniture and geese waggled across the lawn. Turns out the city centre is only 25 kilometres away, but you feel far removed from it all. Which is exactly what owner, Anthony Colia, has been trying to achieve since building the lodge in 2009.
After settling in and marvel-ling at the size of my room, I headed to the lounge and bar area where guests were reclined
on well-worn leather couches watching TV or recounting the day’s adventures over a beer at the bar. As I hadn’t made din-ner plans, I took a look at the menu where I found offerings of a Kruger Pie (venison pie with impala, buffalo or kudu), The South African (boerewors, steak and chicken), The Lumber-jack (steak and fried egg) and McDonald Chops (impala chops with pap and salad).
With a tour of Johannesburg and Soweto first thing the fol-lowing day, it was early to bed for me. However, after hopping into the king-sized bed, I switched on the flat-screen TV and found simple joy in flicking through various DStv channels from the comfort of under my duvet until the wee hours.
I needn’t have worried about oversleeping, though, as I was woken with a different type
ReADeR’S ChOiCeGAUteNG
liNDANi
teL 083-631-5579eMaiL info@lindani.co.zaweB www.lindani.co.zaCOSt Self-catering from R300
a person a night on weekdays and from R395 on weekends.
Andy Niebieszczanski says this 3 200-hectare game farm in the Waterberg is good for walking, mountain biking, and chilling. ‘There’s some game around,
but not the dangerous kind so it’s very safe to walk or cycle.’
Just 275 kilometres north of Joburg, the reserve has houses, lodges, cottages and a campsite. There are a few pools and activities include mountain biking, game viewing and canoeing.
as well as safaris to Kruger. The tour of Soweto and Joburg is well-worth doing and you’ll view these areas in a different light at the end of it. There’s also free internet.NeeD tO kNOW The Rottweilers are very affectionate and harm-less, but three of them trying to get your attention at once isn’t a pleasant experience if you’re not a fan of large dogs.Rachel Robinson
22 Getaway june 2013
june diary
31 May to 2 June Karoo Cultural Festival, Prince Alfred’s Hamlet, Ceres. Catch a donkey-cart ride and watch sheep shearers in action, pur-chase a traditional kaapie, try stokbrood (bread baked on a stick) and watch the Witzenberg Riel group perform a dance that expresses rural life in a celebration of Karoo traditions. Tel 023-316-1287.
1 and 2 June Gauteng Motor Show, Zwartkops Raceway, Tshwane. Gear up for incredible bike stunts and aerobatic displays. Adrenaline junkies can opt for a track experience, go-karting or a helicopter ride. Costs R85 an adult, R45 a child, or R225 for a family ticket (two parents and two children). www.gautengmotorshow.co.za.
8 June Cambridge Food Festival, Mountain Cambridge School, Hartbeespoort Dam. One for food lovers – indulge in artisanal cheeses, pancakes and pecan pies along with organic gin and home-brewed beer. Tel 082-496-0388.
27 June to 7 July Grahamstown National Arts Festival, Grahamstown, Eastern Cape. With more than 500 shows from cabaret and jazz to poetry readings and stand-up comedy, there’s something for everyone. www.nationalartsfestival.co.za.
28 to 30 June ABSA Kirkwood Wildlife Festival Kirkwood, Eastern Cape. Try extreme 4x4ing, go tandem skydiving or build a snowman in the Winter Snow World. Along with a food court, beer tent, wildlife auctions, outdoor expos, a Kidz Square and PlayStation consoles for teens and gamers, this event is for the whole family. Tickets from R80 (adults) and R40 (kids). www.wildsfees.co.za.
1 and 2 June The Oyster, Wine and Food FestivalBrightwater Commons, Randburg. Fresh oysters and a variety of dishes featuring this delicacy await visitors. Also try fine wines, cheeses, olives and sweet treats and live music will add to the festivities. www.brightwater-commons.co.za.
6 to 9 June Wacky Wine Weekend Robertson Wine ValleyOver four days of tastings, tours, braais, picnics and river cruises, 48 estates will showcase their wines at the 10th anniversary of the well-loved event. A weekend passport costs R100. www.wackywineweekend.com.
14 to 16 June Cook Franschhoek, Franschhoek.Master the art of bread-making, hand-made chocolates, charcuterie and more while interacting with top chefs and winemakers. Bookings can be made via Webtickets. www.franschhoek.org.za.
this month look out for The normally secretive black sparrowhawk breeds during June. Be on the lookout for these raptors perching in tall trees in the eastern part of South Africa. They’re otherwise quiet, but in breeding season the male’s loud ‘keeyp’ and the female’s short ‘kek’ calls are hard to miss.
22 Getaway may 2013
12 May Table of Peace and Unity
Table Mountain, Cape Town
A gourmet luncheon to raise funds for kids’ charities. Tickets
from Computicket. www.fieramilano.co.za/giving-back.
3 to 5 May
Riebeek Valley Olive Festival
Riebeek Valley, Western Cape
Indulge in a feast of olives, wine,
cheese, pickles, jams and bread
while mingling with the locals.
www.riebeekvalley.info.
12 May Mother’s
Day Vintage Train to
Cullinan, Pretoria, Gauteng
Explore the historic diamond
village of Cullinan and have
a bite to eat in one of the
restaurants, or take a picnic
to enjoy on the return train
trip from Pretoria. Tel 012-
767-7913.
24 May to 2 June The Royal Show
Pietermaritzburg, KwaZulu-Natal
Since its inception in 1851, ‘The Royal’ has kept families
entertained with all sorts from concerts, fireworks and
crafts to showjumping, livestock shows and vintage tractor
displays. www.royalshow.co.za.
25 and 26 MaySasol Bird Fair
Joburg Zoo, Gauteng
Celebrate Sasol BirdLife South
Africa National Bird Week with
exhibitions, lectures and guid-
ed bird walks. Also join the
Birding Zoo Snooze and sleep
over at the zoo.
www.birdlife.org.za.
23 to 26 May Good Food & Wine Show
CTICC, Cape Town
Gordon Ramsay and French patissier Eric Lanlard
join other celebrity chefs and famous foodies to
present culinary delights and workshops.
www.goodfoodandwineshow.co.za.
May diary
this month look out for Aloe ferox begin flowering in May. Usually growing up to two metres high with striking bright
orange flowers, they’re easy to identify and occur from Swellendam in the Western Cape
through the dry parts of the Eastern Cape to southern KwaZulu-Natal.
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21 April • Pelinduna, Gauteng Take a hike with Hi-Tec and the Getaway crew along the Crocodile River in the Magaliesberg. Enjoy magnificent views of the Broederstroom hills while getting fresh air and exercise. Experienced lead-ers will guide you along the trail while sharing their knowledge of the area. R60 a person (includes entry, trail pack and a gift). Tel 021-530-3381, email keenan. williams@ramsaymedia.co.za.
Bathurst AgriculturAl Show 5 to 7 April • Eastern CapeImmerse yourself in this agricultural celebration with food, crafts and live-stock shows. Watch equestrian events, sing along with a cowboy and take in a vintage vehicle show. Grab a burger or a curry and wander through the flea market while kids are kept busy in a dedicated entertainment area. Tel 046-625-0759, www.bathurstshow.co.za.
BaardskeerdersBos Art route 6 and 7 April • Western Cape Catch a glimpse into the lives of rural artists when they open up their homes and studios to visitors for two days. Browse through paintings, photos, sculptures and ceramics while getting to know the person behind the creation, then make some new friends at one of the local restaurants or pubs. www.baardskeerdersbosartroute.com.
Cape town InternatIonal JAzz FeStivAl weStern cApe5 and 6 April • Western CapeJoin 34 000 jazz fans at the International Convention Centre to watch 40 local and international artists, including Buena Vista Social Club. Also wander through the DuoTone Gallery, which will show-case photos of jazz legends from the past. Costs from R440 for a day pass to R645 a person for the weekend. Tel 021-671-8716, www.capetownjazzfest.com.
holI one colour FeStivAl 6 April • Johannesburg, GautengDress up in white and prepare to be covered in coloured powder raining down at an event inspired by the original Holi Festival in India. It’s not linked to any one religion and promotes the idea of togetherness and colour in everyday life. Join in the fun at Emmerentia Dam, while dancing to top DJs and artists. Costs from R190 a person to R290 with powder. www.holione.com.
Barrels and BeArdS20 April • Bot River, Western Cape Move over Movember! The wine folk in Bot River have a tradition of no shaving or barber visits during harvest season and their hairy efforts are shown off in a parade at this annual celebration. Vote for the boldest beard, taste top wines straight from the barrel and enjoy a potjiekos dinner. Costs R250 a person, including dinner. Email nicolene@botriverwines.co.za.
prInCe alBert olive FeStivAl26 and 27 April • Western Cape Sample and buy tasty olives, quaff wine at art exhibitions and enter an olive-spitting competition in this country hamlet. There will also be live music, culinary demonstrations and kids’ activities. Round off the weekend break with a historic tour of the town or search for spooks on a ghost walk. Tel 023-541-1366, email princealberttourism@intekom.co.za.
Bedford Soul Food FeStivAl26 to 28 April • Eastern Cape Indulge in a seasonal bounty of fresh berries, artichokes, blood sorrel and rhubarb while tasting boutique wines in an Eastern Cape village that is par-ticularly well known for its beautiful gardens. Get culinary tips for your next dinner party, learn how to plant a herb box and shop for local and organic produce. Cell 082-775-5178, www.bedford.co.za.
haenertsBurg kiwi FeStivAl27 to 28 April • Limpopo If you thought the kiwi fruit originated in New Zealand, think again. Learn about its origins in China and how it’s grown on farm tours or take part in the Kiwi Cook Off, where teams prepare a meal with limited ingredients. There will also be restaurant specials, a mountain-bike race and various market stalls. Cell 083-442-7429, email jane@thabametsi.com.
get more online at events.getaway.co.za By rachel robinson getaway guIde diaryCa
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Vintage tractor FairClocolan, Free State • 1 and 2 MarchMake yourself comfortable on a hay bale and watch a rodeo, sheep-shearing and Nguni oxen in span. Cheer on ploughing and potjie comp-etitions, watch a dog show or bid on a tractor auction. There’s also live music, crafts, food stalls, pubs and children’s activities, including a touch farm. Cell 082-775-1675, email vpieterse@vodamail.co.za.
Limpopo WindpompfeesNaboomspruit, Limpopo • 21 to 23 MarchWitness a record braai attempt as well as livestock shows and greyhound racing at Euphoria Golf Estate. You can feed animals, watch equestrian events, go on a 4x4 safari, take part in a mountain-biking race or browse the stalls. From R70 a day or R200 for the weekend. Cell 076-533-4513, www.naboomwindpompfees.co.za.
Karoo food FestivaLCradock, Eastern Cape • 21 to 23 MarchIf lamb is a culinary favourite, get together in this little town to celebrate the Karoo and its food. Attend demon-strations and taste your way through the market. Learn how to make venison sausage, pair wine and truffles and indulge in a foot scrub and neck mas-sage using food products. Tel 048-881-1322, email info@tuishuise.co.za.
cape showBrought to you by Mercedes-Benz Vans Somerset West, Western Cape • 15 to 17 MarchGo to Lourensford Wine Estate to dis-cover authentic travel experiences, snap up great deals, win trips, buy outdoor gear, enroll in a photo workshop or take a hike. There’ll also be a 4x4 track and an activities area for kids. Adults R60, pen-sioners and students R30, U12s free. Tel 021-530-3192, www.getawayshow.co.za.
splashy fen music FestivaLUnderberg, KwaZulu-Natal • 28 March to 1 AprilGrab a tent and spend the long Easter weekend in the Drakensberg. The four days of music includes performances by Ard Matthews and December Streets. There will also be comedy, crafts, a kids’ entertainment centre and plenty of food and drink stalls. Tickets from R575, kids R125 (under fours free). Tel 031-563-0824, www.splashyfen.co.za.
the Ride cycLe Lab Somerset West, Western Cape • 15 to 17 MarchWhether you’re a novice cyclist or a veteran, The Ride Cycle Lab at the Cape Getaway Show will have some-thing for you. Experts will be on hand with advice and accessories and gear will be on sale. While you’re there, sign up for a Ride magazine subscription. Tel 021-530-3208, email amanda.africa@ramsaymedia.co.za.
the rand showJohannesburg, Gauteng • 28 March to 1 AprilExpect a bumper five-day show at the Expo Centre during which you can learn to cook with wine, take in the aromas of the spice market, shop for trinkets or munch on takeaways. Kids can spend hours at the animal farm or Tumble-town or take part in interactive shows. Ticket prices will be available on the website. Tel 011-494-3280, www.randshow.co.za.
the absa KKnKOudtshoorn, Western Cape • 29 March to 6 AprilEmbrace your cultural side with theatre, comedy and music shows at this family festival. With more than 400 stalls, art exhibitions and a fun park, there’s plenty to keep you entertained. Entrance to the general festival area from R40 a day or R100 for the full nine days with various prices for performances. Tel 044-203-8600, www.absakknk.co.za.
Get more online at events.getaway.co.za by rachel robinson getaWay guide diary
21– 23
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in Cape Town for Winter
soup-er spots
discoverdiscoverIt would appear that soup has pretty much
been around since time began. In France,
street vendors would sell a broth claiming it
to be cure for physical exhaustion. The first
recipe book featuring soups appeared in
1742 and was called "The Compleat
Housewife". Perfect housewives and cures
for exhaustion aside, a bowl of soup still
remains a firm favorite during the colder
months. So I went in search of the best spots
t o e n j o y a h e a r t y b o w l w i n t e r
deliciousness…
Constantia Glen, Constantia - If you are looking for soup with a view, then Constantia Glen is the place to go! The views over the valley are as magnificent as the soups are tasty. They have a Honey Roasted Butternut & Sage Soup, a Beef Goulash Soup (from a recipe handed down through the generations) and a French Onion Soup. The soups are saved with fresh bread and Rooibos butter and cost R45 for a single portion or R50 for a Trio of Soup, which a smaller portion of all three. Please note that you will be required to drink wine with your meal as they are not essentially a restaurant, rather a tasting room with food on the side. Wine tasting is R30 a person. Tel 021-795-6100, email wine@constantiaglen.com, www.constantiaglen.com.
Dear Me, Longmarket Street - The name alone was enough for me to investigate this spot in the CBD and turned out to be a delightful find. It's one of those cheerful creative spots where the menu is attached to a clipboard and there are cute long-stemmed green flower decals on the walls and mirrors. I had the soup of the day, which was a Creamy Potato & Watercress Soup served with crème fraiche. I had never had a potato and watercress soup before and loved it almost as much as the place. The soups change on a regular basis depending on what's in season, so you could have Roasted Parsnip Soup one day and Zucchini & Mint Soup the next. Their take-away soup costs R35 (in a recyclable container) and comes with fresh bread. You can choose to eat-in as well, but that will cost you about R10 more. They also have a range deli items and baked goodies for sa le . Te l 021-422-4920, emai l info@dearme.co.za, www.dearme.co.za.
Reuben's @ The One&Only, V&A Waterfront - Most people have this idea that Reuben's at The One&Only is a posh and generally unaffordable place. You are half right - it's kind of posh, but it is affordable. Their Winter Warmer Lunch Special for R125 consists of a bowl of soup, a gourmet sandwich and Malva pudding. When I was there I had a tasty bowl of Creamy Carrot and Cumin Soup along with a panini filled with slow-roasted lamb and roast vegetables. In order to make room for the Malva pudding I took the other half of the panini
discoverdiscover
I home for supper! The restaurant is warm and cosy with a lovely view of Table Mountain and the canals. Plus you can park underground at the hotel for free. Available for lunch from Mondays to Fridays, so take a break from the office and leave the peanut butter sandwiches at home. Tel 021-431-5800
restaurant.reservations@oneandonlycapetown.com,
www.capetown.oneandonlyresorts.com.
Roxy's Cafe, Dunkley Square - This has long been a watering hole of mine, but I had never thought to eat there until a friend mentioned that I simply had to include them in my soup search. I am very glad I did! Their Cauliflower and Cashew Nut Soup was the best cauliflower soup I've ever had. It had loads of garlic in it (yum!), was garnished with roasted garlic shavings and in the middle of the bowl was a tasty chunk of cauliflower that had been fried in batter. Delicious and different, much like the place! The quirky décor in Roxy's has hardly changed over the years, but I still find the comic strips fascinating and I love the old movie posters and cars on the ceilings. I still feel a little uneasy being watched by a mannequin in the bathroom though! Soup of the day is served with bread and costs R35. Tel 021-461-8507, email roxyscafe@gmail.com.
Stardust, Rondebosch - Dinner and a show is the order of the evening at Stardust, where your waiter is also a performance artist (some of them have been in well-known shows like CATS and The Rocky Horror Picture Show) so don't be surprised when you see him or her on the stage singing a well-known hit. Apart from showbiz staff, they have pretty impressive presentation when it comes to their soup – it comes in a bowl that you can eat! I had a very rich and chunky Broccoli and Cheese Soup with lamb belly bits and garnished with butternut crisps. The soup-in-a-bread-bowl is served with (more) bread and costs R45. Don't expect an early night though. The entertainment is so much fun that you'll be tapping your feet and singing along until late into the night. Tel 021-686-6280, email admin@stardustcapetown.com, www.stardustcapetown.com.
The Wild Fig, Observatory - The Wild Fig is lovely in summer and winter – sit outside under fairy lights in summer and keep warm inside by a fire in winter. They serve great food too and it turns out that they also have soup in a “bread bowl”! Their Corn, Cheddar and Chilli Soup was served in a giant bun with the lid taken off and the inside scooped out - bit like a Bunny Chow, but in soup form! I also tried their French Onion Soup and the eye-wateringly spicy Tom Yum Soup. All were delicious! Have a nightcap in Annie's Bar after dinner - they have a great whisky selection and their leather couches are so comfortable you may have a difficult time leaving! Soup of the day costs R39 and the Tom Yum Soup costs R58 (fish) or R60 (prawns). They also have 3-course set menus, starting at R185 per person. Tel 021-448-0507, email info@thewildfig.co.za, www.thewildfig.co.za.
The Yard, Gardens - Fancy a bowl of Sweaty Betty's Sexy Soup? I suggest you give it a try because it could be the only thing you need to eat that day! Served in recyclable containers, the soups from Sweaty Betty at The Yard (otherwise known as the Dogs Bollocks burger joint by night) are filled with all the good stuff. They are the kind of soups that your granny made that kept you full for days. I tried their Pea and Ham Hock Soup with plenty of of yummy ham shreddings and the Cauliflower and Broccoli Soup with generous lashings of melted cheese. Served with bread, these sexy soups will cost you R40 for the meaty stuff and R30 for the veggie stuff. If you are broke, they have smaller containers too. The Yard itself is fast becoming the most famous food-serving garage in town because of its no-frills funkiness and decent portions at good prices. Put your name on the chalkboard, grab a beer or some wine and watch out for scooters when you collect your order. It's that kind of place... Tel 083-440-7843.
ZOOP!, Hout Bay Market - From a compliment at a dinner party to a stall in the Hout Bay Market, ZOOP! soups hav come a long way and it's not surprising. These bowls of yumminess are made using natural ingredients and freshly-made stock, with no flour, gluten or preservatives, making them perfect for people with food intolerances. They have four soups to choose from at their stall on the Hout Bay Market and these can vary from Curried Red Lentil Soup to Sweet Potato & Ginger Soup or a Spicy Coconut Chicken Soup. ZOOP! soup, served in an eco-friendly take-away bowl with a roll, will cost you from R30 to R50 depending on the soup. You can also buy a litre of soup from R80. ZOOP! is at the Hout Bay Market on Fridays from 17h00 to 21h00 and Saturdays and Sundays from 09h30 to 16h00. You can also order online. Tel 082-223-7677, email linda.mckeever1@gmail.com, www.zoopsoups.com.
Article & Photos: Rachel Robinson
rachelrobinson.photography@gmail.com
discoverdiscoverdiscoverdiscover
eateries in Cape Towndeliciously offbeat
If sitting at a table with confusing cutlery options, compelled to fight with a starched napkin that falls off your lap every five minutes is not your style, then give these places a try. You could end up having dinner with Metallica, eating flowers with your lunch or finding skulls on your coffee cup …
The Dogs Bollocks, Gardens
Thankfully, Nigel got tired of watching DVDs all day and now there's an authentic burger spot in a garage in Roodehek Street.
Write your name and the burger of your choice on the chalkboard, grab a bottle of wine from the counter and sit yourself down at one of the wire garden table and chair sets – straight out of the 80s. When your order is ready, Nigel bellows your name and after you grab your burger, the fun really begins. These babies are huge, and there is no way you can eat one elegantly. Be prepared to leave with sauce smeared across your face, down your front and probably in your hair.
You need to get there early though: Nigel only makes 50 of his homemade burgers a night, and when they're done, they're done. The same venue is open for breakfast and lunch too, so if giant burgers are too meaty for you (or you miss out), try the Mucky Mary's Hubcap Breakfast or a world-famous sandwich from The Bitches Tits.
The Dogs Bollocks is open from 7.00 am to 4:30 pm Monday to Friday and from 9.00 am to 2.00 pm on Saturdays. Burgers are served on Mondays to Fridays from 5.00pm until they've all been scoffed. Phone 083-440-7843 or visit
Haas Coffee Collective, Bo-Kaap
If something slightly macabre is your cup of tea (or coffee), you'll love the quirky Haas Coffee Collective in colourful Rose Street: on your way to a table, a waiter in a top hat will take your order before you browse through some of the interesting items for sale. The shelves are filled with sculptures, ceramics, cushions, jewellery and other art pieces including bunnies and skulls in different shapes and sizes. Even the coffee mugs have skulls on them, and from the corners, bunnies watch your every sip. Apart from hot and cold beverages (including the famous cat-pooh coffee) Haas Coffee Collective serves delicious treats, as well as breakfast and lunch – yes, bunny chow is on the menu! They say that every day should start with a good coffee, but with comfy chairs strategically placed in sunny spots, the chances are that you could stay there all day!
discoverdiscoverdiscoverdiscover
Haas Coffee Collective is open Monday to Friday from
7.00 am to 5.00 pm and over weekends and on public
holidays from 8.00 am to 3.00 pm. Phone 021 422 4413 or
visit www.haascollective.com.
Organic at Heart, Wynberg
A picture-perfect thatched cottage in Bardia Street is
home to restaurant with a lot of heart. It's also a
wonderful spot for vegetarians and vegans although
meat-eaters are very welcome, too! Organic at Heart
offers a wide selection of meals and treats suitable for
those with food intolerances, and if the décor isn't
whimsical enough, they also garnish their dishes with
edible flowers.
Most of ingredients for their dishes come from their own
organic vegetable garden and those that don't are
organic and free range. Try their delectable cakes,
including gluten-free chocolate and ginger cake or
vegan carrot cake. Pop into Spades and Spoons Deli on
the way out to stock up on biscuits, muffins and cheeses.
Organic at Heart is open for breakfast and lunch, and on
Sundays you can tuck into a three-course buffet lunch,
with all the trimmings, for R 180.
Also on the premises, are various massage options and
meditation classes, so why not treat yourself to a
delicious day of pampering and eating?
Organic at Heart is open Mondays to Fridays from 8.30
am to 5.00 pm, on Saturdays from 9.00 am to 5.30 pm
and on Sundays from 9.00 am for breakfast and their
Sunday lunch buffet is available from noon. Phone 021
797 0180 or visit www.organicatheart.co.za.
Saints Burger Joint, Gardens
It's all about rock at this burger joint in Kloof Street where
dinner is served to the sounds of bands like AC/DC and
Metallica. In fact, Saints even go as far as to say that Lady
Gaga is not a jukebox option! There are dragons and
“tattoo-esque” designs on the ceilings, and the stairs are
emblazoned with the lyrics from Eric Clapton's “Stairway
to Heaven”.
The burgers, themselves, are pretty good and have cool
rock n' roll names like 'Sweet Pretender' and 'Smoke on
the Water'. You can also design your own burger (from
the bun to the filling) and other dishes on the menu
include vegetarian options, snacks, flatbreads and
desserts.
Breakfast is served all day and there are specials on
different nights of the week, like 2-for-1 burgers on
Thursday nights with a daily hour every day between 6.00
pm and 8.00 pm with craft beer on tap at R 20, cocktails
are R 25 and your third tequila is free. Prepare for a
rocking night!
Saints Burger Joint is open every day of the week from
noon, for lunch, and they close at 11.00 pm. Phone 021
424 0030 or visit www.saintsburgerjoint.co.za.
I am constantly on the look-out for different and quirky
places to have a meal, so if you know of any worth a
mention, please let me know!
Article & Photos: Rachel Robinson
rachelrobinson.photography@gmail.com
It all started on a whim – as most epic adventures do. Mymom lives in Harare, and I was going home for
Christmas: A visit that was long overdue. Then I decided
that while I was there, I would go to the Victoria Falls
Carnival for a New Year's celebration next to none. Soon
word spread among the family and I was invited to stay
with cousins at their lodge in Botswana – Òjust across
the border from Vic Falls. Suddenly there was much
more to this trip than taking Christmas puddings and
presents to Harare!
The logistics of this mammoth trip, with air flights and
car hire became an expensive nightmare. Because I am a
firm believer that girls can drive as competently as men,
it seemed only right that I go on the ultimate drive, to
Zimbabwe, have a holiday and come back home. A crazyidea, perhaps, but with a fairly new car (a smashing littlered Hyundai Getz), there was absolutely no reason why Icouldn't do it.
With Christmas rapidly approaching, working out the
route was a mad rush – from the N1 onto the N12,
through Botswana, into Zimbabwe, through the
Beitbridge border post, and back to Cape Town along
the N14. Car paper and insurance were organised and
accommodation was sorted - only a week before I hit the
road. It was crazy knowing that I would soon be
embarking on a 7,000 km road trip through three
African countries. On my own.
The day finally arrived. After a wake-up shower and a
quick cup of tea to calm the nerves, I was in my red Getz,
wondering what had made me even consider this trip!
Taking the roads less travelled Travelling along the N1
was fairly easy but boring. It's filled with lorries hurtling
by, ridiculously expensive tolls, and landscapes so dull
that even the windmills have lost their heads! Compared
to the highway from hell, the N12 was bliss. Not a single
lorry and not many other cars either: just me, blue skies
scattered with fluffy clouds, flowers and giant cactuses. I
was in a scene from Thelma and Louise, without Louise.
On the N14 the road narrowed as if to give me a hug and
surrounded by the happy smell of fresh farm air, I wound
my carefree way through fields of green mielies and
carrots, passing giant irrigation systems and farmers
taking pigs to market. In Botswana, a herd of sheep
made their way through a filling station while cows,
goats and even the occasional pig wandered along the
highway, reminding me that I was, indeed, in Africa!
Zimbabwe in the rainy season is green and lush with
flamboyant and acacia trees lining the roads. If there
ever was a road out of the movies, it's theN14 between
Kuruman and Springbok. It's long and straight and you
can see where you'll be in an hour's time. The Kalahari
scrub looks as harsh as the sun is hot, and you know it's a
mean stretch of highway when the tar is littered with
pieces of tyre! I drove past windmills, sunflowers, flame
lilies, more mielie fields and cows with clanging bells.
There were cyclists on rickety bikes, women with giant
containers of water on their heads and overloaded
buses belching plumes of black smoke. I laughed at
rudimentary signs advertising cheap potatoes and
smiled at the interestingly-named stores and roadside
taverns. I waved at children walking home from school
and women selling mangoes and butternut. I sped past
grass huts, thorny acacias and baobab trees. I drove
through thunderstorms, was buffeted by Karoo winds,
dodged potholes and was blinded by the afternoon sun.
I rolled down the windows to hear the intense hum of
cicada beetles. I breathed the smell of wood smoke and
African grasses. These are the very things that make an
African road trip so special. It's about the journey The
journey was not just about the roads and the landscape:
along the way, I shared a bottle of wine with a sheep
farmer, ate someone's ouma's home-cooked meals and
had a milkshake in a diner. I drank Zambezi Lager on the
Zambezi, and ate Kariba bream next the Bubi River. I
discovered that you need a big appetite in Kuruman,
and learnt that eating a Springbok pie on the road will
only leave pastry down your cleavage and gravy on the
steering wheel! I had cocktails at a 108-year old hotel,
rode a 19th-century style tram, partied on a steam train
and danced under the stars to Zimbabwean legend,
Oliver Mtukudzi. At the Victoria Falls, drenched in the
rain forest, Iwitnessed the mighty Zambezi River turning
into Òthe smoke that thundersÓ as it crashed 100
metres into a chasm below. On theChobe River I was
surrounded by elephants, was eaten by mosquitoes
Kasane and offered live chicken on the side of the road
in Hwange. I revisited my childhood through my
mother's cooking and stayed in a motel that hasn't
changed since those years.
On the way back I stood in searing heat in immigrationqueues at the border posts for hours, I dealt with both
cheerful and irritable officials and gave wet wipes to
grateful women, while children chased flying ants. A
petrol attendant in Pofadder gave me a hug and lemons
were a gift from a guesthouse in the Northern Cape.
Among my fellow travellers, some of them now friends,
were popcorn-makers, DJs and artists. I remember
them all.
I slept in Cecil John Rhodes' bed in a Scottish castle in
the City of Kings (Bulawayo). In Mafikeng, I stayed in the
suite in which every South African president has slept. I
spent the night in tiny flats, backpackers and spare
rooms. In Springbok I spent the night in a grass dome
nestled between giant boulders with fragrant frangipani
flowers in strewn in the basin. I fell asleep under thatch,
under canvas and under mosquito nets.
I visited Moffat's Mission, saw the biggest natural
fountain in the Southern Hemisphere and popped into a
pink padstal (farm stall). I bought a quiver tree in
Kakamas and in Harare, a flamboyant tree made of wire.
I photographed weavers' nests on telephone poles,
discovered a wine route in the Kalahari and sang along
to the radio when the CD collection became boring.
After 7,800km, three weeks of pure freedom and
incredible experiences, the Mother City welcomed me
back into her arms. I had been on an amazing, life-
changing journey that made me fall in love with a
continent where I am proud to live. Most of all, I
discovered that I can do anything.Pack your bags and your padkos (travel snacks) and hit
the road.
All you need is a reliable car and an adventurous spirit.
You never know what you'll find, what you'll see and who
you'll meet. I do know this: you'll never be the sameagain.
experience
Cape Town to Zimbabwe -
by Rachel Robinson
a girl's road trip
Rachel Moncrieff-‐Robinson
Cape Town, South Africa
082 292 1588
rachelr@ramsaymedia.co.za