MENSWEAR-TYPES OF FORMAL

SUITINGS

THE SUIT

The Suit Jacket

The Dress Shirt

The Waistcoa

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The Suit Trouser

The Necktie

The Cut

Double Breasted Single Breasted

British Cut( Double Vent)

Italian Cut (No vent)

AmericanCut (SingleVent)

Fabric

Flannel

Tweed

Gabardine

Fresco

Colors

Business Colors:Black, light grey, dark grey, navy

Non-Business Colors:Brown, Olive, Tan, or Cream

Red (Unconventional & garish)

3-Button NavyBlue Suit(universally Occurring suit)

Other conservativeColors:Green, White,Light Blue

Harris tweed

Herringbone

Pin-Stripes

Houndstooth

Rope stripes

Double Breasted Suit Jacket

Two by two &Four by four Button arrangement

Six-on-oneSix-on-two

Eight by Eight

DOUBLE BREASTED KENT CUT

•Popularized by George, Duke of kent•Double breasted•Long Lapel line, extends into waist•Six-in-one arrangement

D&G Fall 2010

Single Breasted Suit jacket

Two button Suits:for 6 ft. tall man, has 60s feel, bottom buttonfastened

Three button Suits: for figure type, middle button fastened

Four button Suits: for shorte/stockier man, middle buttonfastened, deeper gorge

Suit Jacket Lapels

Notched Lapels on Single Breasted Suits Double Breasted Jackets:

Peaked Lapels

Shawl Lapels (Dinner Suits)Wide Lapels (1930s,1970s)

VeryNarrowLapels (1950s-60s)

Mid Size Lapels (1980s); low gorge – taller man

NarrowerLapels &Higher Gorge – Shorter man(2000s)

1960s Tailored jackets, narrow lapels asSeen in the then famous TV soap Mad Men

Skinny TiesWinkle Pickers

1970s

John Travolta’sWhite suit inSaturday NightFever

Man Mates Brand-Loud, outrageousColors, wide lapels

PocketsPatch pockets

Flap Pockets

Jetted Pockets

Suit Jacket - SleeveThe Sleeve length should be such that ½” of the shirt’ssleeve is seen

Typical 3-4Button sleeve cuff

5 button sleeve cuff(unusual)

SurgeonCuffs(functionalCuffs)

RopedSleeveJacket

Tuxedos

Black or white, adorned with a bow, for semi formal evenings, Satin lapels, worn with pleated front shirt, one button suit, pointedOr shawl lapels, cummer bands also worn, & leather shoes.

TrousersSame fabric trousers as that of suit

Tapered-slim legged 1980s

Wearing suit – odd trousers

Straight legged & wide legged (23” cuff)-1920s

Flared

Bell bottoms- 50s-60s Wide legged-70s

1930s-Oxford Bags

Turn-ups on Bottom of trouser (1920s-30s)

High waist trousers

Low rise trousersShort European trousers(Little or No break)

Belt braces/Suspenders

Waistcoats

Dress Shirts

Dress Shirts - Collars

Saint Tropez Hidden-button Cut-away Classic Narrow

2-Button ItalianButton down Band collar Buttons Down

Buttons Cut away Wing Up Turn DownSpread Cut away

Soft roll collars Pin Collars Tab collars

Cuffs

Barrel cuffs(corner cut at 45o)

Portofino or Cocktail cuffs

Turnbull/ Asser/ DoubleCuffs

Shoes

Blucher Oxford Spectator shoes Brogues

Rubber shoes Chukka Heavy Duty

Clogs Loafers Balmoral Shoes