By Ethan Allen and Sierra Allen

YUKONBouldering

1st EDITION

PREVIEW!

Rock Gardens

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Rock GardensThe Rock Gardens is the main local bouldering and sport climbing area just minutes from downtown Whitehorse. From the Klondike Hwy, take the South Access Rd. West towards Copper Ridge. Park along the side roads right before going up the hill OR follow the road to the round about, take the first right and park at the designated parking area on your right.

Hi CountryRV Park

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D & DBoulder

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The D&D is a lone boulder located on the south side of the South Access Rd, across the road from the main area of the Rock Gardens. It is popular for its concentration of steep climbing within walking distance of downtown Whitehorse.

2. The Burgler V5Start sitting directly below the prow. Right hand on sidepull at waist height and left on good undercling low. Climb up and slightly left using small holds and foot trickery to gain the rail. Top out as for Cockatrice.

Dungeons and Dragons Boulder

3. Your Dog Eats Sh!t V0Sit start, right hand low on big undercling and left hand on sloping hold at waist height. Climb up on jugs through blocky feature.

1. Cockatrice V3Start sitting at the far left of the sloping lip matched on a large flat hold. Climb right up the rail to top out at the highest point of the prow.

4. Mephisto V3Crouch start on mitt-like feature, move left to a giant left-facing sidepull then up over the bulge and straight up on good incut crimps.

D & D Boulder

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5. Dungeon Master V5Same start as Mephisto, this time climb straight up staying left of the long parallel cracks.

TRAIL ENTRANCE TO THE D&D BOULDER

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8. Wizards of the Coast V5Start as for dragon but climb straight up through mini roof.

7. Dragon V5Start in the middle of the tall face and traverse left through small crimps in an upward trending diagonal crack. Finish up as Fire Breather.

9. Mossy Highball V1Same start as Dragon but climb straight up the tall face through a series of incut left facing sidepulls. Not really mossy or highball. Classic!

12. Dragon Heart V0Start on ledge and climb up through small dihedral.

11. Mosquito Reunion V7Start as #9. Traverse left through the whole steep side of the boulder staying fairly low all the way. Climb into #2 and top out up the sloper rail.

6. Fire Breather V5Same start as the two previous problems, climb up right through parallel cracks, and follow them trending left to the top.

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10. Hobbit StartSit start to problems #7, #8, and #9 for extra value.

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D&D LEFT SIDE

DUNGEON AND DRAGONS BOULDER

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MOSSY HIGHBALL

FIRE BREATHER

MOSSY HIGHBALL

D&D LEFT SIDE

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Credit Card Boulder

2. Swipe and Go V1Sit start in in obvious vertical finger crack. Tweaky.

1. The System’s Got You V0Sit start as low as possible just to the right of the left arete. Short and sweet.

3. Air Miles V2Climb up the crack! Great line.

5. Bad Credit V5 Sit start on incut jug. Climb up though a flake that flexes and will one day explode. Proceed with extreme caution on the up-per section or if you’re scared, just drop of from the jugs.

6. Youth and Progress V0 Start matched on rail, climb to the top on using holds on the right side of the face.

The Roadside AreaFrom the D&D Boulder, cross the South Access road. Once on the other side, follow it up to the road cut rock mound. The Roadside Area is directly on the backside facing away from the road. This area can also be accessed from the West Side. Cut off the rim trail halfway to the Gimps Area and head southeast toward the road.

Roadside Problems

Credit Card Boulder

ROADSIDE AREA

South Access Road To Downtown Whitehorse

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8. Tree Hugger V3Sit start on sweet undercling. Slap up for a sloper and crank up on tricky feet.

4. Credit Card Debt V4 Sit start left hand in slot and right hand on good hold to the right. Climb left to juggy flake. When flake ends move right through thin section to jugs at the top.

7. Little People V0 Climb the slabby arete.

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CREDIT CARD BOULDER

BAD CREDIT

BAD CREDIT TREE HUGGER

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The Gimps AreaThe Gimps are is located just up from the lower (east) end of the canyon. It is located along the south rim trail and can be accessed from either end of the canyon.

Down With the Gimps

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1. The Pinch Prow V0Start on good jug right on the corner and climb up the prow.

The Pinch Prow 2. Triominos V1

Start with left hand on good crimp and climb straight up the face.

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Down With the Gimps

The obvious roof just below the main trail.

3. Down With the Gimps V5Sit start matched on big jug at the back of the roof. Move left to another good hold. Climb out the roof using a series of un-derclings and your feet pasted on small footholds on the right hand wall to gain a big jug just to the right of the prow. Helps to be long. Be careful on the moss above.

4. Up With the Wimps V2 Start as #3 but move left to big hold just above the left side of the roof. Make a big move out to the prow and finish up as for #3.

THE PINCH PROW

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The Emotional Block

Tall block with a less than ideal landing.

6. Smoke Stack V0Climb the Chimney!

7. Eyeless in Gaza V3 Climb the striking tall face. Be careful with the back breaker rock at the base and the epic landing. Bring lots of spotters.

8. Excess Breeds Contempt This bold line is very tall and intimidating with insecure moves towards the top. It is not graded but according to the first ascentionist, “It’s all 5.11 moves on a good day except the first few.”

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5. Life of Uncertainty V2 Start on good holds in middle of the face. Climb straight up through small roof feature.

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DOWN WITH THE GIMPS

LIFE OF UNCERTAINTY

THE EMOTIONAL BLOCK

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The West EndThis area is located at the far west end of the canyon. Can be reached via the main trail that follows the canyon rim on the south side or from the West parking lot take the first trail on the right, crossing a biker’s bridge.

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West End Blocks

1. Quantum Solstice V3Start with two hands on jug at head hight and climb the right arete. Brilliant climb.

2. Back to Building Blocks V4 Start sitting with good hands, climb to the top avoiding the right arete.

4.The Shape of Punk to Come V2 Start in a finger crack and climb up to scary guillotine block to top out.

3. Nothing Funny ‘Bout a Funny Bone V5 Start matched on good crimp down low, climb up the left arete.

5. The Tower of Label V0 Climb the free standing tower on the face with the graffitied sun.

QUANTUM SOLSTICE

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BACK TO BUILDING BLOCKS

THE SHAPE OF PUNK TO COME

QUANTUM SOLSTICE

THE SHAPE OF PUNK TO COME

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THE TOWER OF LABEL

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BACK TO BUILDING BLOCKS

THE SHAPE OF PUNK TO COME

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THE SHAPE OF PUNK TO COME