when suzanne cooks (hardback edition)

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when suzanne cooks Suzanne Husseini Modern Flavours of Arabia

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Transcript of when suzanne cooks (hardback edition)

Page 1: when suzanne cooks (hardback edition)

Divided into five sections depicting breakfast, mezze, lunch, dinner and dessert dishes, when suzanne cooks presents recipes for traditional Arabian foods like falafel, shawarma and stuffed vine leaves, all with a modern twist.

An entire chapter is dedicated to mezze, delectable appetizers – like meatballs with sour cherry sauce, flaky cheese and spinach filled pastries, and grilled aubergines with pomegranate dressing – you can prepare to entertain your guests. The recipes in the ‘Lunch’ and ‘Dinner’ chapters also include side dishes that match perfectly with the mains. The luscious ‘Dessert’ section has an inviting selection of Arabian-modern treats and interesting creations.

Suzanne puts her own touch on many familiar dishes and delights in presenting them in a beautiful way. Petrina Tinslay’s sumptuous photos inspire you to try the mouthwatering delicacies that are part of this refined and elegant Arabian cuisine.

Suzanne’s recipes bring to the table spices like cinnamon, cardamom, saffron and sage; herbs like thyme, parsley and mint; and an endless garden of vegetables and fruits. Her cuisine is distinctly ‘Arabian’ and encompasses a large area including the Eastern Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East – an area rich in history with a food culture that spans centuries.

Suzanne’s journey to write her cookbook has been lifelong. Growing up, Suzanne watched her mother put her soul into cooking and creating the traditional Arabic dishes she knew best. She made everything from scratch, including pitta bread, falafel, hummus, baklawa, biscuits and puddings. This daily feast of flavours warmed Suzanne’s heart and inspired her deep-rooted love of cooking, as well as her belief in the kitchen as the heart of the home.

when suzanne cooks is Suzanne’s tribute to her mother and an inspiration for a new generation who wants to experience traditional Arabian cooking with a modern touch.

www.suzannehusseini.com

Published with the support and encouragement of

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whensuzannecooksSuzanne Husseini

Modern Flavours of Arabia

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when suzanne

cooks

Published with the support and encouragement of

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Published by Motivate Publishing

Dubai: PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAETel: (+971 4) 282 4060, fax: (+971 4) 282 7898e-mail: [email protected] www.booksarabia.com

Office 508, Building No 8, Dubai Media City, Dubai, UAETel: (+971 4) 390 3550, fax: (+971 4) 390 4845

Abu Dhabi: PO Box 43072, Abu Dhabi, UAETel: (+971 2) 677 2005, fax: (+971 2) 677 0124

London: Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ERe-mail: [email protected]

Directors: Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice

Editors: Simona Cassano Moushumi NandySenior Designer: Cithadel FranciscoDesigner: Charlie Banalo

Publishing Coordinator: Zelda Pinto

Text © Suzanne Husseini 2010 Photography © Petrina Tinslay 2010Food stylist: Alison Attenborough

Photography sponsored by

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any material form (including photocopying or storing in any medium by electronic means) without the written permission of the copyright holders. Applications for the copyright holders’ written permission to reproduce any part of this publication should be addressed to the publishers. In accordance with the International Copyright Act 1956 and the UAE Federal Law No. (7) of 2002, Concerning Copyrights and Neighbouring Rights, any person acting in contravention of this copyright will be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims of damages.

ISBN: 978 1 86063 298 3

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed and bound in the UAE by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai

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when suzanne

cooksSuzanne Husseini

Photography by Petrina Tinslay

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6 7

I long for my mother’s bread,

my mother’s coffee,

my mother’s touch…

– Mahmoud Darweesh

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To my father,

who taught me to be a proud Arabian.

To my mother,

thank you for the love you put in every meal. Your love lives on in my kitchen.

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acknowledgements

Where does one begin to thank the many people who had a hand in making this dream of mine a reality? I like to call them my dream team.

Thank you Jonathan Griffiths for setting this dream in motion. For my dear friend Perla Lichi for your continued love and support and for showing me there is more to a number than you think. Many thanks to Wakami Saab for your neverending generosity. For Najat Al Sayyed, you are truly a special friend. Thank you Maria Norman for never giving up and being so supportive. For Stephanie Mahmoud whose joy and enthusiasm makes it an absolute pleasure to work with her.

The saying goes that a picture is worth a thousand words. Truly the stunning photography speaks volumes. Petrina, thank you for capturing my food in the most beautiful way. And to my food stylist, extraordinaire, Alison Attenborough. Thank you Leanna Maione for your hard work and also for keeping tea time alive.

My appreciation to all the Motivate team whose excitement for this book made it a wonderful experience. Many thanks to Simona Cassano, Therese Theron, Urvashi Kadam, Cithadel Francisco and Charlie Banalo.

I am grateful for the generosity of so many people from various stores who offered us gorgeous props for the photo shoot. Thank you Bloomingdales, Tavola, O de Rose, Harvest Home, Zara, Asala, Geneviève Lethieu, Perla Lichi Design.

Thank you Jane Hodges, Maram Borno, Sundos Shaikhly, Victoria Crick, Tarek Tawil, Erika Oliveira, Kathy Santiago, Lucy Taylor, Caroline, Denise Roig and Josephine.

Then there are my ‘Girls’, Tala Duwaji, Gaby Tulipano and Lana Makhzoumi who were always ready to taste and critique my food. Thank you my dear friend Jehanne Aswad for always being there. Thank you Nadine Qonso for the privilege of wearing your beautiful one of a kind jewellery at my photo shoot. Thanks Anne, Jenny, Stephanie and Melanie for your encouragement.

I have been so fortunate to have met so many wonderful people in my life. Thank you to all of my friends I’ve made along the way who have graced my table. Cooking for you has been a true joy. My heartfelt thanks to all of the fans of my show 'Sohbe Taibe'. Your kind words and continued support have meant so much to me.

A big hug for my dear son Mahmoud who tirelessly worked with me and put up with my endless tweaking. Thank you to all of my family for your love and encouragement. My neverending love and admiration to you Ahmed, for managing to keep up with all of my dreams. And to my children Eman, Mahmoud and Mimi who are the reason why I cook with love.

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Sambousek Two Ways 76Citrus and Almond Shrimps Wrapped in Knafe Pastry 78Spicy Chicken Wings with Fresh Hot Tomato Salsa 80Green Salad with Fried Halloumi, Grapes and Pomegranate Dressing 82Lemony Braised Stuffed Vine Leaves with Mini Courgettes 84Moussaq’aa 86Shamandar (Beetroot) Dip 88Spinach-Filled Filo Triangles 90Grilled Aubergines and Pomegranate Dressing 92

lunch 94Kofta Sandwiches and Spicy Roasted Potato Wedges 96Lemony Garlic Chicken with Rice and Yoghurt Sauce 98 Arugula Salad with Grilled Aubergines and Sweet Pomegranate Dressing 100Cauliflower Fritters with Yoghurt and Mint Dip 102Baked Kibbeh and Fattouche 104Falafel Sandwich with Tahini and Parsley Dip 106Grilled Fish with Date and Rice Pilaf and Spicy Tomato Salsa (Dakkous) 108Kofta Burgers and Yoghurt, Cheese and Mint Sauce with Matchstick Potatoes 110Warm Shawarma and Arugula Salad with Pomegranate Vinaigrette 112Creamy Lentil Soup 114Sea Bass Wrapped in Vine Leaves and Citrus Potato Salad 116Meat-Filled Mini Aubergines and Creamy Yoghurt Sauce 120Rice and Lentil Pilaf and Lemony Cabbage Salad 122 Meat or Aubergine Flatbreads 124Lemony Lentil Soup with Swiss Chard 126Caramelized Onion Tart with Sumac Roast Chicken and Arugula and Thyme Salad 128

dinner 130Barbecued Chicken and Burghul and Freekeh Pilaf 132Jute Mallow and Chicken Stew and Vermicelli Rice 134Stuffed Baby Courgettes in Herb Yoghurt Sauce 136Baby Okra Stew and Layered Fragrant Rice Pilaf 138Shawarma (Lamb or Chicken) 140Maqlouba (Meat and Rice with Aubergines) 142Braised Stuffed Cabbage in Lemon Garlic Sauce 144Meat-Filled Pasta in Herb Yoghurt Sauce (Shish Barak) 146

contents

acknowledgements 10

contents 12

introduction 16

breakfast 20 Cheese and Za'atar Flatbread 22 Halloumi/Feta Cheese Bread Rolls 24Aubergine Omelette and Tomato and Mint Salad 26Middle Eastern Baked Eggs and Crispy Pitta Wedges 28Fried Halloumi Cheese 30Chickpeas with Yoghurt Topping and Pitta Croutons 32Za'atar Croissants 34Ricotta-Filled Crêpes with Mango and Rose Syrup 36Fava Bean Dip 38Fried Eggs (Arabic Style), Spicy Sausages and Hash Browns (Arabic Style) 40Date and Orange Scones and Mascarpone Spread 42 Labneh Three Ways 44Fresh Thyme Stars 46

mezze 48Baba Ghanouj 50Beetroot and Purslane Salad with Citrus Dressing 52Hummus 54Roasted Cauliflower with Citrus Tahini Sauce and Roasted Red Pepper Dip 56Poached Fish in Tahini Sauce with Caramelized Onions 58Exotic Watermelon and Cheese Salad 60Mutabbal Beitinjan 62Kofta (Meatballs and Sweet and Sour Cherry Sauce) 64Tabbouleh and Kibbeh Tartare 66Fried Kibbeh Shells and Cucumber and Yoghurt Mint Salad 68Braised Green Beans and Tomatoes 70Herb and Nut-Crusted Labneh Balls 72Baby Okra and Sautéed Tomatoes 74

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Walnut and Herb Stuffed Salmon with Spicy Tahini Sauce and Rice Tabbouleh 148Herb and Pistachio Crusted Rack of Lamb and Arugula and Tomato Salad 150 Roast Chicken with Rice, Fruit and Nut Stuffing and Arabian Garden Salad 152Ground Lamb in Tahini Citrus Sauce 154Shish Kebab and Shish Tawouk, Freekeh and Fresh Tomato Pilaf and Beetroot and Fresh Thyme Salad 156Stuffed Peppers 158Stuffed Vine Leaves, Courgettes and Lamb Cutlets Braised in Lemon Juice 160 Fish and Rice Pilaf with Caramelized Onions, Spicy Tomato Salsa (Dakkous) and Mixed Citrus Salad 162

dessert 164‘A Thousand and One Nights’ Pistachio Ice-Cream 166Sweet Semolina Cake 168Chocolate-Filled Cardamom Cookies 170Cheese or Walnut-Filled Crêpes 172Umm Ali (Arabian Bread Pudding) 174Baked Baklawa Cheesecake 176Baklawa 180Sesame and Pistachio Biscuits 182 Arabic Shortbread 184Knafe Pastry with Cheese 186Pistachio, Walnut and Date Pastries (Maamoul) 188Date Pastries 190Rice Pudding with Date Compote 192Fruit Salad 194Milk Pudding with Apricot Compote 196Date filled 'S' Cookies 198Spiced Ricotta-Stuffed Dates 200

conversion charts 204

cook's notes 205

basic recipes 206

glossary 207

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introduction

My family emigrated to Canada when I was very young. I remember arriving in the middle of the winter and seeing snow for the first time. A new beginning, where I had to learn a new language, make friends and get used to wearing mittens and boots. While all of this was challenging at times, my constant comfort was coming home to a kitchen filled with the most enticing smells, lovingly created by my mother. Our kitchen was the heart of our home. She would pack my school lunch with sandwiches made from homemade pitta bread, filling them with hummus (which was not yet a household word in North America!), labneh, falafel and za'atar. My classmates, being curious, wanted to know where I was from. “You tell them you are Arrrrabian,” my father advised, accentuating the ‘r’. But this answer only made them want to know more. The questions followed: “Is your father a sheikh?”, “Does he have camels?”, “Is he rich?”. They were relentless. I was only too happy to invite these inquisitive friends home for lunch. They tasted my mother’s cooking and, of course, loved it. The teasing eventually stopped, my 'exotic' lunches became a hit and soon I was filling daily requests for falafel. I learned at age seven that we all share one thing and that is a love for food.

Much has been written about the legendary hospitality of the Arabs and our love of good food. Eating is an integral part of our life. We take it very seriously. For us, the age-old tradition of breaking bread is an honourable experience. This cookbook is my passionate attempt to showcase the diverse cuisine I grew up with, a cuisine that encompasses the Eastern Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East, a sophisticated food culture that has evolved over hundreds of years and was deeply influenced by the great Persian and Turkish civilizations. Situated at the crossroads of the spice route, Arabic cuisine naturally flourished and spread: the Arabs of long ago took their newly found ingredients – pine nuts, aubergines, pistachios, sugar, sesame, saffron, cinnamon, rice – and their farming and irrigation skills to places like Spain and Sicily. Sicilian cooking still uses so many Arabic ingredients and methods. Recently, I’ve been struck by how many well-known TV chefs are now looking to the Middle East for inspiration, incorporating ingredients such as sumac, harissa, tahini, saffron, rosewater and pomegranate syrup.

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While the evolution of food traditions continues to fascinate me, this book is not meant to be an historical account of Arabic cooking. Rather, it is a collection of recipes I grew up with, the foods my mother cooked for our family, the dishes that brought comfort and joy to our hearts.

One of the best skills I learned from my mother was to cook, as she would say, “with my eyes”, and to keep tasting along the way. She always allowed us to experiment in the kitchen, even if it meant making a mess. This gave me the confidence to cook with no fear. Even though my attempts weren’t always successful, she would taste it and say, "It is better than mine". She, incidentally, had an amazing talent for ‘cracking the code’ of any dish she tasted in a restaurant, recreating a better version of it at home the next day.

Over the years of eating at my mother’s table, of teaching cooking classes, of gracing my own table with enthusiastic, food-loving friends, and of simply cooking for my own family, I’ve learned so much about other cultures, exchanged many recipes and simply savoured good times. This book is the result.

The dishes that follow are divided into five chapters, ‘Breakfast’ being the first, followed by ‘Mezze’, ‘Lunch’, ‘Dinner’, and lastly ‘Dessert’. I want to share with you the foods and the times they are typically eaten. Use these recipes as a guide, but follow your instincts and your senses, too. Cooking is a delicious adventure!

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breakfastBreakfast does not have to be complicated. It could be as simple as a perfectly fried egg sprinkled with tart sumac and fresh thyme with a bowl of olives on the side. Mornings are a nice time to do some light baking, whether it is scones sweetened with dates, savoury cheese buns or a perfectly baked egg nestled in sautéed spinach. The aromas will put a smile on anyone’s face.

Listening to the sweet angelic voice of Fairouz while savouring a fresh cup of coffee is the way I start my mornings. I love laid back weekend mornings when breakfast is the main event. Breakfast at my mother’s table was always a medley of textures and flavours. And I've carried on that same tradition.

Besides the choice of breakfast recipes in this section, also feel free to include many of the mezze dishes to your breakfast table.

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mezze

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mezze

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Poached Fish in Tahini Sauce with Caramelized Onions6 servings

½ cup tahini3 garlic cloves, crushedjuice of 2 lemonsjuice of 1 orangezest of ½ orange1 cup watersea salt6 tbs olive oil6 pieces of white fillet of fish (sea bass, sea bream, halibut, cod)2 small onions, thinly sliced¼ cup toasted pine nuts

Make the sauce by combining the lemon juice, orange juice, and garlic into the tahini. The mixture will seize at first but gradually add the water and it will begin to soften. Add the salt and mix well to achieve a runny, creamy sauce. Set aside.

In a large skillet, heat 3 tbs of the olive oil and place the fish fillet skin-side down to crisp up for about 3 minutes. Turn over to brown on the other side for 2 minutes. Remove and set aside (it will finish cooking in the sauce) later.

In another large skillet heat the remaining 3 tbs of olive oil and fry the onions until golden and crisp but not burned. Remove and place on absorbent paper towel.

Using the same skillet pour in the tahini citrus mixture. Stir and season with salt. Reserve some onions for garnish and add the rest to the sauce. Allow the sauce to come to a boil for 2 minutes. Lower the heat and slide the fish in the tahini sauce. Swirl around to coat the fish evenly. Leave undisturbed for 5 minutes to finish poaching the fish. Serve hot in little plates garnished with toasted pine nuts and the reserved crispy onions.

Tahini is the perfect partner for fish. It is creamy and nutty. The onions add a welcome sweetness to it. The lemon juice cuts through the thickness and the orange juice and zest take it entirely to another level. My mother is baffled by this addition and shakes her head not too pleased about me changing her recipe. I tread carefully at this point and serve her a piece with an extra squeeze of lemon. After two bites even my toughest critic becomes a fan. Whew!

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lunch

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Meat-Filled Mini Aubergines and Creamy Yoghurt Sauce6 servings

Yoghurt Sauce2 cloves garlic, minced1 tsp salt2 cups thick, full fat yoghurt

12 small aubergines¼ cups olive oil1 med onion, finely chopped250 g lean lamb, minced1 tsp allspice1 tsp cinnamon2 tbs dry mintsalt and pepper4 tomatoes, peeled and diced2 tbs dried mint

½ cup toasted pine nuts, to garnish½ cup toasted almonds, to garnisha handful pomegranate seeds, to garnishoptional – cayenne pepper

Start by preparing the yoghurt sauce. Crush the garlic and salt in a mortar and pestle and add to the yoghurt in a bowl. Mix well and set aside in the fridge.

Trim the green tops of the aubergines but keep the stems intact. Peel in alternating thin strips, resulting in striped little aubergines. Heat 4 tbs of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and sautée the aubergines until they are golden brown and slightly soft. Keep turning all around. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent paper. Leave to cool.

When cool enough to handle, make a slit lengthways but not through the other end, prying open with your fingers gently to make a pocket and set aside.

Meanwhile heat 4 tbs olive oil in a skillet and fry the onions until translucent and soft. Add the minced meat and brown all over. Season with cinnamon, allspice, mint, salt and pepper. Lastly stir in the diced tomatoes, turn off the heat and leave to cool slightly. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place a good spoonful of the meat mixture into each aubergine pocket. Lay the filled aubergines in a baking dish and put in the oven to heat through. To serve, put some pitta croutons on a serving platter (see how to prepare them on page 32). Arrange the hot stuffed aubergines on top. Drizzle the yoghurt sauce on each one and garnish with toasted pine nuts, almonds, fresh pomegranate seeds and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Serve immediately.

Fatteh dishes always use a layer of toasted or fried pitta bread as part of the recipe. They come in many forms. I like to make my fatteh ensuring that my bread stays crunchy and not soggy. This aubergine version (fatteh beitinjan) is one of my favourites and is an explosion of textures. Don’t be put off by the numerous steps. Each part can be made ahead and assembled minutes before serving.

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dinner

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dinner

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Fish and Rice Pilaf with Caramelized Onions8–12 servings

1 kg sea bream fillet (6 pieces)1 kg salmon fillet (6 pieces)2 tsp cumin2 tsp coriander1 tsp paprikasalt and peppera handful of flour½ cup peanut oil

½ cup peanut oil8 medium onions, sliced thin8 cups fish stock or chicken stock

Season the fish with the cumin, coriander, paprika, salt and pepper. Dredge with flour. In a large skillet heat ½ cup peanut oil and fry the fish until golden crisp on both sides and cooked through. Remove and place on paper towels to drain. Set aside while you prepare the onions and rice.

In a large skillet pour in ½ cup of peanut oil on medium heat and fry the onions in batches until crispy and golden brown. Be careful not to overcook. Remove the onions and drain on absorbent paper. Take a big handful and put aside for the garnish.

Heat the stock in a large pot and drop in the fried onions to release their brown color and sweetness. Remove onions with a slotted spoon, place them in a food processor and pulse a couple of times to break them into a chunky paste. Season the stock with the coriander and cumin, turmeric, cinnamon and salt and pepper. Taste to adjust the seasoning.

In a large 6-quart pot heat the butter and add the drained rice. Sprinkle in the saffron threads. Add the puréed onions and 1 cup of toasted pine nuts and stir well to combine. Pour enough of the seasoned stock to cover the rice completely. Put on the stove and allow to come to boil. Reduce heat, cover and let simmer until the rice is cooked and all of the liquid is absorbed. You may need to add some more stock or water. Turn off the heat when it is done and keep covered to rest before serving.

Preheat the oven to 190°C. Reheat the cooked fish before serving on top of the rice. Garnish with the remaining pine nuts and reserved crispy onions. Two handfuls of fresh pomegranate seeds is the perfect finish. Serve with Dakkous (Spicy Tomato Salsa – see the recipe on page 109).

Mixed Citrus Salad

6–8 servings

1 pink grapefruit3 oranges3 limes6 lemons1 red onion, sliced thinly

Peel all the citrus fruit by first cutting off the tops and bottoms. Place the fruit on the cutting board and slice off the peel in strips removing the white pith. Go all the way around. Cupping the orange in one hand and using a very sharp paring knife cut out the segments lengthways to release them between the membranes. Place all the fruit on a nice serving platter. Add the onion slices. Scatter the parsley and mint. Season with salt and pepper. Mix the orange juice and olive oil and drizzle on top of the citrus fruits. Serve immediately. Delicious with fried or grilled fish.

Sayyadieh is one of those dishes I love to make whenever I’m having a big dinner party. I like to serve it family style, showcasing all of the succulent fish. Use any fish that is meaty and has no bones. Caramelizing the onions is the secret to getting the colour and exceptional flavour of the rice.

1 tsp cumin 1 tsp turmeric1 tsp cinnamon1 tsp coriandersalt and pepper

3 tbs clarified butter4 cups basmati rice, presoaked, draineda good pinch of saffron threads1 cup + ½ cup toasted pine nuts2 handfuls pomegranate seeds

¼ cup fresh mint, thinly sliced¼ cup fresh parsley, thinly slicedjuice of 1 orange3 tbs extra virgin olive oilsalt and pepper