warm and hypnoticcertified organic &conventional clary sage

australian cosmetic regulations guide

spicy and green scents to make this season smell sensational

WINTER EDITION 2017

winterWINTER EDITION 2017

THIS ISSUE

Winter cover:Black PepperPiper nigrumBlack Pepper is an exceptional ingredient in after sports massage blends. It is recognised for its warming and detoxifying effect on the body and stimulating and supportive properties for a tired mind. Steam distilled from the dried berries, the oil offers a slightly sharp and spicy aroma with peppery notes. Available in Certified Organic, Conventionaland Premium Commercial. Visit www.seoc.com.au for more information.

04 Harvest: Clary Sage oil (France) Captivating herbaceous aroma,

excellent quality. 12 Essential Oils:

Spicy & Green Families Your guide to essential oil

aroma classification 16 SME Forum: Cosmetic &

Personal Care Products A guide to the Australian

Regulations 20 News: One Health Organisation

Improving the lives of the women of Thapathali

22 Product Specification: Clary Sage oil (France)

Specification for manufacturers

23 Formulation: Soft & Supple Face Cream

Featuring Clary Sage oil (France)

There is a little magic with the onset of winter in Australia. The colder days seem to slow down time and bring people together in comfort and connection. Sunny days sparkle with clear light and we share the seas with majestic whales migrating north. In this issue of Oily we hope to inspire you with warming, fragrant inspiration for the season. Harvest features the wonderfully hypnotic Clary Sage from France. This dazzling oil is a superb ingredient in perfumery and relaxing essential oil blends, and we discover the plant’s colourful history and cultivation in the picturesque mountains of Provence. We’ll banish the winter chills with the green and spicy family of essential oils and bring you up-to-date with the latest Australian regulations for cosmetic and personal care products. We invite you to take a seat and enjoy the delights of this issue. Brooke Summerfield, Editor

HARVEST

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From the perfumed heart of Provence.

Fragrant swirls of Clary Sage

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Fields of Clary Sage between the regions of Vaucluse and Alpes-de-Haute in Provence.

Soft crests of mauve and lilac float across the vast horizons of Provence in the south east of France. Nestled between the Alps and the Mediterranean Sea, the fertile plains of Vaucluse and the dramatic mountains of Alpes-de-Haute-Provence provide the ideal climatic environment to grow Salvia sclarea. While the summers are hot and dry with abundant sunshine and infrequent rainfall, Clary Sage is a robust and aromatic crop that is highly valued by farmers for its ability to grow in almost drought-like conditions.

Sydney Essential Oil Co.’s supplier produces exceptional quality Clary Sage oil that is exported all over the world. With Certified Organic farming practices that have minimal impact on the natural landscape and a unique approach to cooperative farming, they have become one of the leading producers in France and internationally.

An Ancient Medicinal HerbThe distinctive sweet, herbal and woody aroma of Salvia sclarea is synonymous with the soft and diffusive elements of romantic fragrances and relaxing aromatherapy blends. The herbal scented plant is a close relative of common garden Sage and has a medicinal history that dates back to the ancient Greeks.

The botanical name of Clary Sage comes from the Latin word ‘salvare’ meaning to heal and ‘clarus’ to clear or clarify, and reflects the early practice of steeping the seeds in water to treat eye and skin infections and draw out thorns and splinters.

In the Middle Ages, Clary Sage tea was used to cleanse the mouth and ward off infections. It was also popular for digestive disorders and revered as a ‘women’s oil’ to help alleviate hormonal fluctuations and assist with labour. Within ancient texts, Clary Sage was also highly prized for its fragrance, treasured as a gift of the gods and said to have the power to guide a person to divine enlightenment.

Not just a medicinal herb, Clary Sage has had a colourful past. The plant was used by German merchants as a potent hops substitute in beer and was added to Rhine wine to imitate the taste of a fine Muscatel. This practice was so common that to this day; >

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Above: Harvest commences in the beginning of July. Historically, crops were harvested by hand but modern farms are now fully mechanised. Left and below left: Harvested material is delivered to the processing facility and prepared for steam distillation utilising mobile containers. Below right: Naturally thriving in the wild, Clary Sage can grow up to 40 – 100cm in height and up to 1.6m in cultivated varieties.

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the herb is still referred to as ‘MuskatellerSalbei’ or ‘Muscatel Sage’ in Germany. Across the seas in Jamaica, a boiled concoction of the large downy leaves was applied to the body to cure the stings of scorpions and cooked in lard and applied as an ointment to soothe and calm the skin.

Clary Sage CultivationThe resilient biennial herb is native to the Northern Mediterranean coast, thriving in the wild across countries including Spain, Italy, Croatia, Greece and areas of Central Asia and North Africa. It wasn’t until after World War 1 that Clary Sage was established in Provence as a cultivated crop for essential oil production. By the 1950’s, France had become the largest producer of Clary Sage in the world. Sown in the spring from tender seedlings, the aromatic plants grow up to one metre in height with square green stems that are covered in fine downy hairs. The characteristic clusters of light purple-pink flowers at the top of the stem, are supported by large velvety, gray-green leaves that release a musky, sweet aroma when crushed.

Situated high in the French alps, the dry slopes and well-drained soil encourages prolific growth, and the surrounding mountains protect the delicate blossoms from damaging storms. In the first year, the crop is left to mature in the field and essential oil production doesn’t commence until the following European summer, beginning in July. The Salvia sclarea plant will produce exquisite essential oil for up to three years. After this time, the fields are replenished and rotated with Lavandin, also one of the most recognised crops in the region.

Clary Sage essential oil is obtained by two methods of steam distillation from the flowering tops and leaves of the plant. Firstly, the plants are harvested fresh from the field, shredded and distilled green, producing what is known as ‘Vert Broye’ Clary Sage. With a crisp green fragrance that has elements of lavender and wood, this oil has a higher Linalool content than plant material that has been cut and left to dry in the field. >

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Above: Approximately 7-15 tonnes of harvested plant material per hectare

is required to produce 15-30kg of pure essential

oil. Right: As the steam passes through the plant

material, saturated aromatic moisture and oil is released.

Below: The essential oil extracted during steam distillation rises to the

top and is separated from the floral water. The

resulting oil is a pale straw to light yellow colour.

Certified Organic Clary Sage oil is an excellent inclusion to your essential oil range. If you haven’t

experienced the hypnotic warmth and euphoria it brings, we invite you to try it today. For more information

or a bulk quote contact our customer service team on 02 9565 2828 or sales@seoc.com.au.

The second and most traditional method of distillation, involves harvesting of the whole plant which is left to partially dry in the field. The plant material is then mechanically collected, ground and transferred to a mobile container used for steam distillation. The resulting oil has a lower Linalool content suitable for sensitive skin and a softer combination of herbaceous and floral notes.

Certified Organic Clary Sage Essential OilLinalool and Linalyl acetate, the two key chemical constituents present in the essential oil are also commonly found in Lavender oil and as result, Clary Sage offers some similar properties.

The essential oil’s clear, warm and almost nutty aroma makes it extremely appealing for perfumery formulations, particularly with unisex fragrances. It resonates as a top to middle note in blends and is complemented by citrus or woody oils such as Bergamot, Grapefruit and Cedarwood. Clary Sage is an impressive fixative in perfumery, particularly for natural fragrances with a more delicate bouquet, enhancing their stability and staying power on the skin.

Aromatherapeutically, the oil can impart a euphoric effect. The heady scent can quickly calm and help centre your thoughts when feeling flighty or scattered. It is exceptionally supportive and often incorporated into natural remedies to promote healthy sleeping patterns and feelings of revitalisation and well-being. Imparting a sedative effect, the oil should be used with caution when driving or if intense concentration is needed.

When utilised in natural cosmetic products, Clary Sage cleanses the skin and hair whilst balancing sebum production and clearing excess dandruff. In creams, lotions and body products, the soothing effect of the oil can help nourish and calm tired and inflamed skin. Ideal for massage applications, the essential oil supports the muscular and nervous systems and can assist with tired and sore muscles, cramps and relaxation. 1

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With impressive hydrating properties, Clary Sage is a perfect addition to face cream formulations. It helps retain precious moisture, helping the skin to feel intensely nourished.

the herbalfamily

introducing:

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Herbal Family essential oils offer green and herbaceous

aromas with diverse cosmetic and aromatherapeutic properties.

the spicy family the green familyintroducing: &

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In our final instalment of our Olfactive Family feature, we will look at the rich Spicy Family and the small, but distinctive Green Family of essential oils.

Characteristics of the Spicy FamilySpicy Family essential oils are commonly sourced from dried spices utilised in culinary applications. They possess intense, powerful aromas that provide a kick or an extra zing to a blend or perfumery profile and an invigorating, warming action for bodywork treatments.

Characteristics of the Green FamilyGreen Family essential oils offer a unique aromatic quality that is profoundly appealing when professionally blended. Even in the smallest quantities, they are an impressive addition to a sophisticated perfume or aftershave product. They are modern tones that will support more traditional scents such as florals or woods.

Essential Oils to know from the Spicy Family 1. Black Pepper steam distilled > dried fruitWith a strong, slightly sharp scent, Black Pepper oil is great to stimulate the mind and help clear your thoughts. Its warming action makes it perfect for after sport massage blends and bath soaks but should be used in small percentages as it can potentially >

ESSENTIAL OILS

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ESSENTIAL OILS

irritate sensitive skin types. Black Pepper is not often utilised in natural cosmetic formulations, but can bring an interesting note to a body cream blend with Grapefruit, Lavender and Ylang Ylang.

2. Cinnamonsteam distilled > bark or leavesThere are two variations you can choose from, Cinnamon Bark or Cinnamon Leaf. Both oils are steam distilled, but the plant parts result in different constituent and aromatic profiles. Cinnamon Bark’s scent is deep and resonating, with spicy notes that are warm and penetrating. Whereas Cinnamon Leaf has a brighter, fresher, almost sweet spice tone. Both are excellent for boosting brain power and lifting the clouds when feeling blue. It is not recommended to use either in skincare products as the oils can be quite sensitising. However, Cinnamon Leaf would be a lively addition to an energising shower gel formulation.

3. Clove steam distilled > bud or leavesClove also has two varieties readily available. Clove Bud and Clove Leaf are both potent essential oils that bring energy and interest to developing blends. With a rich, rounded scent profile, Clove Bud is a slightly gentler aromatic ingredient than Clove Leaf, which imparts a clear, intense quality. Their uplifting effects are unmistakable and they perform wonderfully when partnered with Citrus notes such as Orange, Grapefruit or Lemon. Including either variety of Clove oil in a natural insect repellent will also yield positive results.

4. Ginger steam distilled > root The warming effects of Ginger oil make it a favourite for aromatherapists and body work specialists. Its stimulating aroma helps focus the senses whilst also grounding the spirit, and it is often incorporated in blends that are designed to support emotions. Ideal for use in sports recovery massage blends as it helps keep the body warm and is a great addition to a post-workout muscle balm.

5. Nutmeg steam distilled > seed/fruitSweet and spicy Nutmeg oil is a revitalising scent. It will activate your thought processes and help get you over the line when demotivated or challenged. Similar to other Spicy Family oils, Nutmeg is suitable in massage blends and bath soak products but should only be added in small percentages as it can be overpowering. Haircare products benefit from its tonic action when blended with Rosemary and Tea Tree for superior cleansing results.

Essential Oils to know from the Green Family 1. Petitgrain steam distilled > leaves/branches The intriguing scent of Petitgrain is extraordinary. It’s an undulating mix of citrus, floral and fresh woody tones. It offers both a calming and refreshing action on the body and is said to appeal to the intellectual side of your character. Deodorising properties make it an ideal choice for natural body sprays and its skin toning qualities work well in foaming or cream based facial cleansers.

2. Violet Leaf Absolute solvent extracted > leavesThis Green Family absolute is a wonderful perfumery ingredient. Its dry, leafy aroma has slightly mossy tones that envelope your senses. When developing a perfume blend with Violet Leaf absolute start with small quantities as it will synergise as a resonating base note. It may take time to settle before balancing with your other ingredients.

Blending with Spicy or Green Aromas Spicy and Green Family essential oils offer distinctive aromatic and aromatherapeutic properties to blends and natural cosmetics which can help your range stand out from the crowd. We encourage you to try something new in your next development stage! 1If you have missed any of our previous Olfactive Family articles visit the Publications page under Resources

on our website to read a back issue of Oily or contact our customer service team on 02 9565 2828.

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SME FORUM

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When formulating cosmetic and personal care products in Australia, it is important to consider the relevant regulatory requirements including the registration of your business with NICNAS, compliance of your ingredients, labelling standards and product claims.

The National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS) is the government agency which regulates industrial chemicals and operates under the Industrial Chemicals (Notification and Assessment) Act 1989. Cosmetic ingredients, whether they are natural or refined, are classified as ‘industrial chemicals’ and this includes ingredients such as oils, extracts and plant essences. If your product contains sunscreen or has an anti-acne or anti-bacterial action, the Cosmetics Standard 2007 is the applicable regulatory standard.

In Australia, cosmetic products do not have to be submitted to any government agency for approval. However, to start supplying and marketing your cosmetic product in Australia, you are required to comply with the following regulations. >

Australian Regulations for Cosmetics and Personal Care ProductsTop tips to follow when developing your range.

SME FORUM

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1. Do I need to register with NICNAS? If you are importing or manufacturing cosmetics for commercial purposes you may need to register your business with NICNAS. Manufacturing may include certain types of soap manufacture, in which fats and oils are combined with sodium hydroxide to produce soap. Blending cosmetics is considered different from manufacturing because it does not involve a chemical reaction and you do not need to register with NICNAS. Examples of blending include:

• making soaps using the melt and pour method with a pre-made base

• mixing cosmetics such as moisturisers, fragrances or essential oils using domestically-sourced ingredients and

• cold emulsifying, meaning blending using a mechanical rather than a chemical process.

To check if you need to register with NICNAS, there is a questionnaire on their website ‘Do I need to register my business?’ that will help identify your requirements.

2. Are the ingredients ok? The ingredients in your formulation must be acceptable for use in a cosmetic product. It is necessary to check if the ingredients in your product are included on the Australian Inventory of Chemical Substances (AICS). The AICS is a chemical ingredient database that allows identification of ingredients that are included in the inventory. If an ingredient is not on the AICS, it is considered new and the options available depend on the quantity of the ingredient in your product. For low volumes, you can apply for exemption. For higher volumes, you may need to submit a notification in the form of a permit or certificate.

NICNAS have different permit and certificate notification categories. There are several criteria to meet for each exemption category including on-going annual reporting and record keeping. If the ingredient does appear in the database, further investigation may still be required regarding NICNAS conditions of use.

Finally, all ingredients need to be checked to see if they are restricted or prohibited for use in cosmetics. This information is in the NICNAS database; however, you will also need to check the Standard for the Uniform Scheduling of Medicines and Poisons (SUSMP) for decisions regarding the classification of poisons. If your ingredients are classified, it may result in safety warnings required on product labelling or prohibition for use in cosmetics.

3. Do I have all the right information on my label? The key considerations for your product label include:

• Product name• How to use the product• A list of ingredient names, written in English or INCI formatted

in descending order calculated by mass or volume• Warning statements (if required)• Country of origin (if your product is made outside of Australia)• Quantity / units of the product need to be included.

The inclusion of batch numbers and expiry dates is not mandatory for cosmetic products however it is good practice to include these in your product label. You can find out more about cosmetic ingredient labelling requirements at: http://www.productsafety.gov.au/standards/cosmetics-ingredients-labelling.

4. Are my product claims cosmetic?The claims you make on cosmetic product labels and packaging must be of a ‘cosmetic’ nature only. For example, cosmetic products can only talk about having a temporary benefit to the top layer of your skin (the epidermis). Products that claim to benefit the skin at a deeper level or to cure an ailment could be viewed as ‘therapeutic’. It is important that you don’t make therapeutic claims for a cosmetic product as your product may be classified as an illegal medicine. 1

Article kindly prepared by RFA Regulatory Affairs (Robert Forbes & Associates). RFA Regulatory Affairs

is a regulatory and technical consulting firm with over 25 years’ experience in the complementary

medicine, food, cosmetic and personal care industries. RFA can help you with product formulation,

claims, labelling and other compliance issues. Visit their website www.rfareg.com.

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NEWS

OHO and Sydney Essential Oil Co. have had

a close and supportive partnership for

many years, sharing a passion for helping

vulnerable communities and providing

access to sustainable health services.

One of the recent projects that has

achieved valuable health outcomes was the

crowdfunding campaign to raise money for

the construction of a Community Health

Centre in rural Nepal.

Health is a daily challenge for the

women of Thapathali in Nepal; with child

marriage, complications from childbirth

and domestic violence commonplace

amongst the community. Wanting to have

a real impact, the local women’s group

embarked on a mission to create a safe and

nurturing space to be utilised for health

services, skill development and education

of young girls and women.

OHO coordinated the campaign, and in

conjunction with donations from Sydney

Essential Oil Co.’s wonderful customers and

staff, the money raised has gone directly

into the community, paying for building

materials and the wages of contributing

labourers and tradespeople.

With only the rendering and lime

washing of the stone walls left to

complete, the health centre is well on its

way to providing vital health services for

the women of Thapathali.

Project director, Hugh O’Toole from

OHO is overwhelmed with the support.

“Thank you to all our amazing donors

who share our belief in social justice.

We realised that educating women and

girls means that you educate a family and a

community. It has a compound effect.

We believe in the worth of this project for

its outcomes related to both Health and

Education in rural communities.”

Sometimes it’s easy to overlook the real

impact of the work and support you give.

However, the exciting progress of the

health centre is an important example that

all our efforts are making a genuine

difference to people’s lives. Thank you to

OHO and our incredible customers. Your

dedication to improving lives and helping

others is truly inspirational. 1If you are interested in learning more about this

project or would like to make a donation, visit www.

onehealthorganisation.org.

Inspiring progress for women’s health in NepalOne Health Organisation (OHO) and Sydney Essential Oil Co. recently collaborated in a crowd funding campaign to establish a women’s health centre in the village of Thapathali, Nepal.

“Educating women and girls means that you educate a family and a community”.

Project Director Hugh O’Toole from OHO is overwhelmed by the support received to build a community health

centre in rural Nepal. It will offer a safe and nurturing

space for delivering vital health services to the women

and girls of Thapathali.

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PRODUCT SPECIFICATION FORMULATION

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Soft & Supple Face CreamPerformance: soothing & nourishing, mid-weight emulsion, easily absorbed.Appearance: cream coloured emulsion with light to medium viscosity.Aroma: sweet, slightly herbaceous aroma with floral undertones.Stability: expected shelf life 12 months subject to manufacturing practice. Recommended use: apply to face, neck and décolletage daily for youthful looking skin.

Method of Manufacture1. Heat Phase A to a maximum of 70°C.2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and heat to 70°C.3. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix. Continue mixing until cooled to 45°C.4. Add Phase C and mix well.5. Add Phase D and mix well.6. Continue to gently mix until cooled to room temperature.7. Package in appropriate jars.

For ingredients contact Sydney Essential Oil Co. +61 2 9565 2828.

Disclaimer Product formulations are included as illustrative examples only. Whilst all care has been taken

in presenting example formulations, Sydney Essential Oil Co. accepts no responsibility concerning any

product manufactured using such formulations. The responsibility for the performance for marketing claim

and adequate testing for stability of any product prior to sale lies with the manufacturer thereof.

Phase Raw Material % w/w

A Orange Blossom infused water 70

B Emulsifying wax 4.5

Camellia oil – certified organic 7

Pomegranate Kernel oil – certified organic 5

Wheatgerm Refined oil 2

C Natural Tocopherol 50 (Vitamin E 50) 2

Rosehip Seed CO2 extract – certified organic 1

Geranium oil (Egypt) 0.6

Clary Sage oil (France) 0.5

Frankincense oil (India) 0.2

3% Rose Otto in Jojoba – certified organic 0.2

D Fig extract – certified organic 2

Licorice extract – certified organic 2

Leucidal 2

Phytocide Elderberry 1

100% w/w

Product Clary Sage oil (France) – Certified Organic ACO

Botanical Name: Salvia sclarea

Origin: France

Appearance: Clear free flowing liquid

Colour: Pale straw to light yellow

Odour: Characteristic

Plant part used: Flowering herb

Extraction method: Steam distillation

Physio-chemical properties

Specific Gravity @ 20°C: 0.8900 – 0.9100

Refractive Index @ 20°C: 1.4500 – 1.4690

Optical Rotation: -6.00° to -25.00°

Oil components

Linalool 6% to 30%

a-Terpineol Trace to 7%

Linalyl acetate 50% to 80%

Germacrene D Trace to 13%

Sclareol Trace to 4%

Other InformationPackaging: As required.Storage: Store in tightly sealed containers in a cool, dry place without direct sunlight or heat. Handling: Well ventilated area and avoid open flame or other sources of ignition.Shelf Life: Three (3) years from date of manufacture (when stored in appropriate conditions).

For more information contact Sydney Essential Oil Co. +61 2 9565 2828.

Typical Analysis

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Sydney Essential Oil Co. Pty Ltd. ABN 16 600 890 248

11 Burrows Road South, St Peters NSW 2044 Australia

PO Box 226 St Peters NSW 2044

T: + 61 2 9565 2828 F: + 61 2 9519 8009 E: sales@seoc.com.au

Order online www.seoc.com.au

Office hours: 9am-5pm Monday to Friday

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