Textiles Webinar
28-06-2011
Table of Contents
Briefing on Indian Textile Engineering Industry by Mr.
Saktiprasad Chakrabarty, Secretary General of the Textile Machinery
Manufacturers Association
Briefing on Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing: Bangladesh
Perspective by Mr. Faruque Hassan, Vice President of the Bangladesh
Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association
Briefing on Sustainable Technology for Modernisation by Mr. Ashok Desai,
Director of Bombay Textile Research Association
Briefing on the Free Trade Within The Subcontinent by Mr. Tahir Jahangir,
Chairman of the Towel Manufacturers Association of Pakistan
News on BusinessVibes
Indian Textile Engineering Industry
(TEI)
May 2011
The Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) in India is one of the five key
engineering sectors
Consists of more than 1400 units, with a total investment of
Rs.6,900 crores*
More than 80% of the units are SMEs*
Capacity is Rs. 8048 crore*
Provides direct/indirect employment to > 250,000 people*
TEI contributes greatly to the competitiveness of the Indian Textile
Industry (TI)
Meets 45-50% of the demand of the Indian textile industry*
* (Source: Textiles Committee Survey)
TEI – An Overview
5
TEI – An Update
Rs. Crore
Source: TMMA, DGCIS
6
Demand & Production – Past and
Projected
Source : TMMA, DGCIS & Private sources.
9847
7258
7526
9577
11000
13300
14900
15700
5515
3456
3663
5500
6000
7300
8900
10700
4332
3802
3863 4077
5000
6000
6000
5000
56
48
49
57 56 55 60
68
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
0
2000
4000
6000
8000
10000
12000
14000
16000
18000
2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2011-12 2012-13 2013-14 2014-15
( R
s.C
rore
)
Domestic Demand Met by domestic production Met by import % Share of demand met by domestic industry
Faruque HassanVice President, BGMEA &
Managing Director, Giant GroupJune 28, 2011
Webinar
Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing:Bangladesh Perspective
Starting in the early 1980s, Bangladesh has become the 2nd largest apparel exporting country in the world in 2010 recording USD14.86 billion exports
More than 5000 garment factories are operating in Bangladesh where 4 million people are
employed, 80% female
The share of garment export to national exports during the July 2010-May 2011 period stood 77.71%
Garment export earning is around 13% of Bangladesh’s GDP
During the July 2010-May 2011 period our garment exports totaled USD 15.96 billion registering a robust 43.18% growth compared to the corresponding period of last fiscal
Export touched a record height ever in a single month in May 2011, USD 1.79 billion showing 50.55% growth.
The primary textile sector meets up almost 90% raw material needs of knitwear exports and around 40% needs of the woven garment exports
Bangladesh is the world’s second largest cotton importer, annual import is 4.75 million bale average
Bangladesh produces almost 100 percent of the accessories needed by the export oriented garment industry
Around 6 million people are employed in the Textile and Clothing sector altogether, 40 million people are directly and indirectly dependent on this sector
Bangladesh enjoys duty free access to the European Union, Canada, Australia, Japan, Norway and Switzerland
The modern factories have state-of-the-art machineries, international standard quality control process, good house keeping and social standards
Almost all the globally renowned brands are sourcing from Bangladesh and a good number of them having liaison office in Dhaka
The industry is growing at an annual average rate of 15%
An Outlook of Bangladesh Textile & Clothing Sector
Efficient, Green,
Clean and Sustainable Production
Waste Management through Energy
Efficient & Environment
Friendly Technology
Skill Development and Capacity
Building for Product & Design
Development
Widening the application of IT
solutions catering to the Textile &
Clothing Industry
Govt. Support for Research &
Development, Textile & Clothing Park,
Favorable Taxation Policy
Priority Areas of Technology Upgrade: Bangladesh Textile & Clothing Perspective
Clean & Energy Efficient Production:
Though the Textile & Clothing sector is underway of modernization, but the sector incurs a huge wastage in energy and resources. For example - the ratio of energy efficiency in the T&C sector is 40% and the wastage of water is around 15%-18%. Since fabric process requires to use huge chemical, water, electricity and energy this has an impact on the environment and nature. However, considering the worldwide growth in apparel consumption textile and clothing production has also to grow at per. But we have to be cautious about the adverse impact on environment and how to minimize the impact. We are campaigning to motivate the entrepreneurs on this spirit, which includes the following points:
Use effluent treatment plant to re-treat the water and conserve the nature
Use water treatment plant to feed clean water into the textile processing so that the use of chemical and energy can be minimized
Use energy efficient machine and technology in case of boiler, iron, fans and blower , etc. The purpose built and low-risk energy efficient boilers may be placed
Use low liquor ratio dying machine to optimize the use of water, energy and chemicals
Replace the magnetic ballasts with electronic ballasts
Replace the normal bulbs with energy saving CFL bulbs and use LED lights
Replace the induction/class motors with Servo motors
Steam trap maintenance & insulation of pipes
Energy co-generation
Skill Gap and Skill Development:
The major productivity gap emerges from the skills shortages in the textile and clothing industry. The world textile & clothing market is growing and we have a 5% share of it only. So we have a huge scope of growth. Our entrepreneurs have that capability and dynamism to utilize this potential and our workers particularly females are one of the best workforce in the world for this industry. Such a growth projection clearly indicates the need for a huge skilled workers.
Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing Sector
The existing infrastructural facility is not adequate to supply required professional for the textile and garment industry in Bangladesh. The textile technologists available in Bangladesh is not adequate at present. So the government needs to scale up the technical and vocation training facilities for this sector to produce graduates and professionals for the textile and clothing sector. Apart from focusing on the conventional education, government needs to pay more attention on the technical side.
BGMEA is running a number of training centers for developing skilled workers, and it is very encouraging that some of our esteemed buyers have also come forward to partner with us in this venture. We are pursuing the government to start large scale training facilities for this sector
Particular focus has to be drawn in the area of developing expertise for product and design development to facilitate our progression to high value added segment
Widespread Application of IT Solutions
Different machineries are used in Textile Industry for various departments like Blow room, Carding, Combing, Weaving, Bleaching, Testing, Finishing
Produce diverse range of products in a specific delivery cycle
Numerous end product variants created from relatively limited raw materials
Machine Sequencing & Load Balancing complexities
Long replenishment lead times for procured raw materials
Multiple production scenarios in different locations and routing as the product needs to go to different places for different value addition
So, the IT solution like CAD, PDM, POS, ERP, RFID need wider use in Textile and Clothing sector
Training and Research & Development on the Textile and Clothing Sector:
Favorable policy initiatives needed to support the technology up-gradation like India and Pakistan
Promotion of Energy Conservation Technologies by the all related trade bodies.
Needs to strengthen Research & Development for the Textile & Clothing sector
Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing Sector
Respect for nature – Green-building, water recycling and using renewable energy hasbeen getting increased attention among the entrepreneurs. BGMEA has been runningseveral projects to promote energy efficiency in textile & garment factories.
Sustainable use of resources – The textile & garment industry in Bangladesh havealready gained significant progress in clean production. In order to bring all factoriesunder this practice BGMEA runs projects like waste recycling. We are in the process ofinitiating a responsible sourcing program with the IFC-SEDF. It undertakes awarenessprogram to upgrade technology for sustainable production.
Safe to wear products – Most factories run their own textile testing labs which areaccredited by large fashion retailers like H&M, Marks & Spencer, Puma, JC Penny, G Star,Tesco, Hugo Boss, Zara, etc. Tests are done as per various international standards likeISO/AATCC/BS/OEKO-TEX. Most of the companies have awards from big fashion retailersfor good product & Quality.
Skill Development - BGMEA established country’s first fashion institute called BGMEAINSTITUTE OF FASHION & TECHNOLOGY in 2000. The institute is aimed to cater mid-management professionals and fashion designers need for the garment industryBGMEA runs skilled development program jointly with the Government of Bangladeshto address the skill shortage. This institute is in the process of transformation into afashion university. BGMEA runs productivity and quality improvement projects
ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITYEnvironmental Sustainability: the Ultimate Impact
The Bombay Textile Research AssociationMumbai
BTRA was established in 1954 as
research association under the
societies registration act XXI of
1860 to provide research and
consultancy support to Indian
Textile Industry
GENESIS
MANDATE
To undertake research and other
scientific work in connection with
the textile trade or industry and
other trades or industries allied
therewith or accessory thereto
Research
Consultancy
Testing
Training
MAIN ACTIVITIES
Technology
Transfer
Utilities /
Conservation
Quality &
Environment
Management
Decentralised
SectorGovernment /
Financial
Institutions
Training /
HRD
In-house
Projects
R & D
Consultancy in all aspects of textiles
Consultancy in Technical Textiles
Consultancy for ISO 9000 and ISO 17025
Techno-economic Feasibility / Vetting related Reports
Service on Valuation of Plants, Machinery and Building
Testing Services
Consultancy in Eco labeling
Services to Decentralised Sector
BTRA ACTIVITIES
Physical / Chemical properties – textiles, chemicals / dyestuffs, etc.
Microbiological properties
Technical textiles / composites testing
Polymer properties – certain unique and special test facilities
Eco-testing
Testing as per GOTS / OEKO-TEX
Flammability Testing
Specially designed tests for washing machine manufacturers, detergent manufacturers, etc.
BTRA Test Laboratories are accredited to ISO-17025 : 2005 standards
Testing services
X-ray diffraction (chart diffraction)
FT-IR spectroscopy
Birefringence measurement
Light Microscope photographs
Scanning Electron Microscope photographs
Thermal analysis (by TGA, TMA, DSC)
Melt Spinning experiments
Gel Permeation Chromatography
Testing Facilities for Nonwovens including
Polymer Testing
1. NEED FOR SHOP FLOOR PRACTICES
2. KNOWLEDGE OF MODERN MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND TECHNICAL/SUPERVISORY SKILLS
3. AWARENESS OF ENVIRONMENTAL NORMS
NEED FOR FOCUS ON MANPOWER TRAINING
SUSTAINABLE TECHNOLOGY FOR
MODERNIZATION
A few Potential Plasma Applications for conventional
and technical Textiles
• Improvement in hydrophilic/wetting properties of
fibers like polyester, PP, PE etc.
• Ease of removal of sizing material in desizing
process
• Improvement in the adhesion promotion
• Hydrophobic/ water repellant finishing of textiles
• Textile finishing : Anti-static, anti-bacterial, optical
barrier coating, etc.
Project : Plasma Technology for Textile Processing
Advantages of Plasma Technology as eco-friendly
process :
Environmental friendly technique
Dry technique as no water is required
Low energy consumption,
Qualitative and full controllable process
Operator friendly technique: no chemical products,
gases, etc.
No damage to the substrate and no change in bulk
properties.
Minimum waste disposal problems
Achievements in the Plasma Processing of Textiles
Wettability improvement
Treatment of polyester, polyester/cotton samples with
helium oxygen plasma for improved hydrophilicity
Functional finishing of textiles
Functional finishing of 100% cotton, 100% polyester,
and P/C blended fabrics with HMDSO to impart water
repellent properties
Functional finishing of cotton fabrics for oil repellency
using fluorinated acrylates.
Nylon and PET treatment with silane plasma
Water repellent cotton by plasma treatment
UNTREATED COTTON HMDSO TREATED COTTON
Achievements in the Plasma Processing of Textiles
Achievements in the Plasma Processing of Textiles
Dyeability
Modification of cotton fabric with aminosilane plasma
followed by dyeing with reactive dyes
Improved dyeability of nylon by means of plasma
activation followed by grafting
Electroconductive Textiles Smart Textiles-
Capability to respond to the external environment agent in
an appropriate manner
Electrically conductive textiles-
Incorporation of Conductive polymers into textiles
Innovative way than the conventional methods
Retains all textile properties, yet work smartly through
ability to conduct electricity
Projected to have broad impact in the fields of protective
clothing, medical textiles, military, sports, consumer
products
Project : Studies on Textiles doped with Conducting Polymers
• Development of an Innovative Two step In-situ Chemical Polymerization of
Intrinsically conductive polymers (ICP) on Textile Fabrics
• Electrical Surface Resistivity can be achieved in the range of 10 – 108 Ω
• Scaling up of the Process for large scale production is possible
Chemical Polymerization of ICP s on Textile
fabrics
• Resistance to Ageing of Polypyrrole coated Cotton fabrics was improved by
the Incorporation of Sulfonic acid salts (e.g Naphthalene sulfonic acid- NSA)
as doping agents
• The reduction in atmospheric aging to the tune of 12-13 times was observed
with the use of sulfonic acid dopants in addition to chloride dopants
Improvement in Atmospheric Stability of ICP
coated Textiles
• Development of various prototypes for specific applications:
Smart Textiles
Resistive heating pads & garments
Fabric based hazardous Gas Sensor
Prototypes
Some of the Publications
• Quality and Operational Benchmarks for modern
spinning mills
• Global challenge vis-à-vis performance levels of
modern blended yarn / cotton spinning mills in India
• Quality parameters for Home Textiles
• Norms for Chemical Processing
• Norms for Mechanical Processing (Weaving)
• Steam Consumption Norms for Textile Process
Houses
• Developments in Processing of Knitted Fabric
• Product catalogue on Technical Textiles
TAHIR JAHANGIRCHAIRMAN
Association Description
The Towel Manufacturers’ Association of Pakistan was recognized by the Government of Pakistan on 9th August 1976 as “B” class Association with Head office at Karachi and two Circles viz., Northern (i.e. Punjab & NWFP) and Southern (i.e. Sind & Baluchistan) provinces with their offices at Lahore and Karachi respectively.
Since then the Govt. of Pakistan has entrusted this Association with the job of management and distribution of Quota of Towels, Terry fabrics & other made-up to its members.
Most of the Towel Manufacturing Units are members of this Association.
The Association is also designated to issue Certificates of Origin under Article 11(2) of the International convention relating to the simplification of customs formalities, 1923 in respect of Towels exported to non-GSP countries from Pakistan vide SRO No. 903(1)1181 dated 10th August 1981.
This Association to also issues certificates (T-2) for submission to that Bank for sanction of Business Travel Quota for countries other than India vide State Bank of Pakistan letter No. 8066/ECP.8(ii)-B-83 dated 31st October 1983.
Policy Ideas of the Association
Move to a free trade regime progressively within the Subcontinent. This will bring out the best firms in the region - they will have a big market at their doorstep. The economies of scale and the access to each others know how and technology will help them grow stronger and take on the large firms worldwide much better.
Big boon for the consumers of the sub continent. Imagine having the choice of buying the best or cheapest garments, sheets, fabrics, towels from the entire range presented by the subcontinent. Also imagine the diversity of design.
It worked for the United States of America and then worked for the European Union, why not us?
Given the current protectionist tendencies it is an idea that is difficult to stomach in one go. I would therefore go step by step. Once the first step succeeds and is seen to succeed and bring benefits to all concerned then it will be easier to take the second step.
No sentiment in the entire European Union that wants the free trade arrangements reversed. They may complain of the common Euro and the financial burden of bailing out the weaker economies – but there is no one who wants the customs union to go.
Suggestions
Start with textiles and take the least sensitive items first. As the Chairman of the Towel Manufacturers Association of Pakistan I would like to offer free trade in all terry products and made up items. My proposal is to dismantle the current import duties placed on these items by each country to be abolished in the following manner:
Year 1 – half the current import duties. Year 2 – further half the duty i.e. come to 25%. Year 3 – abolish all duties.
If the basic idea appeals to a cross section of the industry then more segments could be approached for the phased duty reduction.
Interested? Contact me at [email protected]
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