Download - Table Saw Cabinet - Wood Toolswoodtools.nov.ru/projects2/PlanPDF/[Woodworking Plans] Table Saw... · Plans N O W page 1 © 1998, August Home Publishing Co. Table Saw Cabinet MAGAZINE

Plans N O W page 1 © 1998, August Home Publishing Co.

Table Saw CabinetMAGAZINE

Woodsmithfrom

This cabinet is just what I’ve alwayswanted for my table saw. It addsweight and stability, it rolls awayfor storage, it has a sawdust col-lection system in the cabinet, and itturns all the wasted space underthe saw into much-needed storage.

But before getting into the con-struction of the cabinet, somethingshould be said about its size. Thiscabinet will comfortably support aSears 10" table saw or a Delta(Rockwell) 10" Contractor’s Saw.(The overall width of the cabinet issized to fit under the saw withextension wings.)

The height of the cabinet shownhere is 231/2" (with casters). Thisputs the working height of both theSears and Delta saws at 361/4"(which is the same as the Sears sawon a Sears stand, but 2" higher thanthe normal Delta setup.)

CUT PIECES TO SIZEI started work on the cabinet by cuttingthe six main pieces (the top/bottom, ends,and dividers) to final size from a 4’x8’ sheetof 3/4" birch plywood. (Birch is a little moreexpensive than CDX fir plywood, but thefinal appearance is worth it.)

!/2 !/2” x 3 ” - 72”

!/2 !/2” x 3 ” - 72”

!/2 !/2” x 5 ” - 72”

!/2 !/2” x 5 ” - 72”

!/2 !/2” x 5 ” - 72”

!/2 !/2” x 5 ” - 48”

!#/16 !/2” x 3 ” - 72”

!#/16 !/2” x 5 ” - 72”

!#/16 !/2” x 5 ” - 72”

#/4” PLYWOOD 48” x 96” !/4” MASONITE 48” x 48”

NOTE: CUT ”-THICK TRIMSTRIPS FROM WASTE

!/4

ALSO REQUIRES” PEGBOARD 12” x 24”!/8

M

M

M

M

M

M

M M

O O

N

N

N

N

N

N

N N

P P

P P O OV V

W

F F F

A

A

B

C

D

E

G

G

J

J

Y Y

Y

Y

I

Q Q Q Q

Q Q Q Q

T T

K K K K U

L L L L

R S

H

TOP/BOTTOM. First, cut the top/bottompieces (A) to a length of 39" and to a widthof 233/4", see Fig. 1.

ENDS. Next cut two end pieces (B and C)to a length of 20" and to the same width asthe top/bottom pieces (233/4"), see Fig. 2.(Note: These pieces are wider than they

are long, see grain direction in Fig.5.)

DIVIDERS. Finally, cut the twodividers (D and E) to a length of1713/16" and to a width of 231/2", seeFig. 3. (Note: These dividers are1/4" narrower than the other piecesto allow for a 1/4" back.)

RABBETS AND DADOESOnce the six major pieces werecut to size, I laid out the positionsof the rabbets and dadoes used tojoin them together.

It’s important to lay out thesecuts so there will be mirrored sets.To keep things straight, I markedthe front and back edges of eachpiece, and also the face that willhave all the cuts, see Fig. 5.

BACK RABBETS. Start by layingout and cutting rabbets for the 1/4"Masonite back. These rabbets are

on the inside back edge of the top/bottompieces (A) and the inside back edge of bothends (B and C), see Back Rabbet Detail inFig. 4.

Note: To keep things simple, all of therabbets, dadoes, and grooves for the basiccabinet are cut to a common depth of 1/4",only the width varies.

MATERIALS LIST

Overall Dimensions: 231/2"h x 40"w x 241/4"dA Top/Bottom (2) 3/4" ply. x 233/4 - 39B Left End (1) 3/4" ply. x 233/4 - 20C Right End (1) 3/4" ply. x 233/4 - 20D Left Divider (1) 3/4" ply. x 231/2 - 1713/16

E Right Divider (1) 3/4" ply. x 231/2 - 1713/16

F Drawer Runners (16) 1/2 x 3/4 - 13G Separators (2) 3/4" ply. x 121/2 - 175/16

H Shelf Cleats (4) 13/16 x 1 - 175/16

I Back Panel (1) 1/4" Mas. x 1713/16 - 39J Shelves (2) 3/4" ply. x 73/4 - 121/2K Sm. Drwr. Fronts (4) 13/16 x 31/4 - 117/8L Lrg. Drwr. Fronts (4) 13/16 x 51/4 - 117/8M Sm. Drwr. Sides (8) 1/2 x 31/4 - 133/4N Lrg. Drwr. Sides (8) 1/2 x 51/4 - 133/4O Sm. Drwr. Backs (4) 1/2 x 23/4 - 111/4P Lrg. Drwr. Backs (4) 1/2 x 43/4 - 111/4Q Drawer Bottoms (8) 1/4 Mas. x 111/4 - 13R Catcher Fr/Back (2) 13/16 x 2 - 103/8S Catcher Sides (2) 13/16 x 2 - 181/8T Catcher Runners (2) 1/4" Mas. x 11/4 - 185/8U Catcher Cleats (2) 13/16 x 11/4 - 21V Door Stiles (2) 1/2 x 11/4 - 173/16

W Door Rails (2) 1/2 x 11/4 - 107/8X Door Panel (1) 1/8" peg. x 107/8 - 153/16

Y Caster Pads (4) 3/4" ply. x 4 - 5

CUTTING DIAGRAM

BOTTOM RABBETS. Next, lay out and cutthe rabbets to join the bottom to the ends.These rabbets are on the bottom edge ofboth end pieces (B and C), see BottomRabbet Detail in Fig. 4.

Note: The width of these rabbets shouldequal the actual thickness of the plywoodwhich is usually a little shy of 3/4" for hard-wood plywood. But to keep things simple,all measurements are shown as 3/4".

TOP DADO. Now lay out the position ofthe dadoes that are used to join the top (A)to the ends (B and C). To determine thelocation of these dadoes I wanted to planahead to allow enough space for the draw-ers below it. This requires an overall open-ing of 175/16" for two 31/4"-high drawers andtwo 51/4"-high drawers with a 1/16" gapbetween each drawer and the cabinet.

When I had this measurement I workedfrom the bottom edge up - allowing 3/4" forthe bottom rabbet (refer to Fig. 2), plus175/16" for the drawers, plus 3/4" for the thick-ness of the top (A). This left 13/16" as themeasurement from the top edge to the topof the dado, see Fig. 2. (This position cre-ates a raised edge to keep things from slid-ing off the cabinet, refer to photo.)

DRAWER RUNNER DADOES. After the topdadoes are cut, there are four more dadoesfor the drawer runners in the end pieces (Band C) and dividers (D and E), see Figs. 2and 3. However, the problem with layingout these cuts is that you’re not workingwith the same measurements on the endsas on the dividers. The ends have to accom-modate the top and raised edge thatextends above the top.

To lay out the first (top) runner dado onthe ends (B and C), measure down 3" fromthe top edge. Then continue to work yourway down laying out the remaining dadoesas shown in Fig. 2.

Note: All of the measurements for thepositions of the dadoes (shown in Figs. 2and 3) are taken from the top edge of theworkpiece to the top edge of the dado. Thisis the same measurement needed when set-ting up the saw - it’s the measurement fromthe fence to the dado blade.

RUNNER DADOES ON DIVIDERS. The toprunner dado on the dividers (D and E) isonly 15/16" from the top edge, see Fig. 3.

Note: For ease of construction on a tablesaw, we’ve shown all of the runner dadoesgoing all the way to the back of the cabinet.But the drawers only run part of the wayback. To get a slightly neater appearance,you could use a router and stop the dadoes14" from the front edge.

SEPARATOR GROOVES. After the runnerdadoes are cut, lay out and cut the verticalgrooves for the separators (G) that dividethe drawer compartments from the shelfcompartments, refer to Figs. 7 and 8 onpage 3. Locate these grooves 14" from thefront edge of the ends and dividers, seeFigs. 2 and 3.

A

FIGURE 1

23 ”#/4

!/4 #/4” x ”DIVIDER DADO

(SEE FIG. 4)

12 ”!/4 12 ”!/439”

!/4 !/4” x ”BACK RABBET

(SEE FIG. 4)

TOP/BOTTOM

FRONTEDGE

FIGURE 21 ”#/16

3”

6 ”%/16

9 ”%/8

20”

14 ”!%/16

FRONTEDGE

!/4 #/4” x ”DADO

(SEE FIG. 4)

ENDS

14”23 ”#/4

!/4 #/4” x ” SEPARATORGROOVE (SEE FIG. 4)

!/4 !/4” x ”BACK

RABBET(SEE FIG. 4)

!/4 #/4” x ”BOTTOMRABBET

(SEE FIG. 4)

BACKRABBETDETAIL

BOTTOMRABBETDETAIL

TYPICALDADO/

GROOVEDETAIL

!/4”

!/4”

!/4”

!/4”

#/4”

#/4”

FIGURE 4

FIGURE 3DIVIDERS

!/4 #/4” x ” SEPARATORGROOVE (SEE FIG. 4)

!/4 #/4” x ”DADO

(SEE FIG. 4)

FRONTEDGE

1 ”%/16

4 ”%/8

7 ”!%/16

13 ”!/4

17 ”!#/16

14”

23 ”!/2

A

A

EB

C

D

FIGURE 5

LEFTEND

LEFTDIVIDER

BOTTOM

TOPRIGHT

DIVIDER

RIGHTEND

Plans N O W page 2 © 1998,August Home Publishing Co.


DRAWER RUNNERS

After the rabbets, dadoes, and grooves arecut in the six main pieces, work can beginon the drawer runners.

Start by cutting 16 runners (F) 1/2"-thickand to width to match the dadoes, see Fig.6. To help guide the drawers into place, Isanded a slight chamfer on the front cornerof each runner, see Detail in Fig. 6.

After the runners are cut to size, gluethem in so the front of each runner is flushwith the front edge of the end or divider.

SSEEPPAARRAATTOORRSS AANNDD SSHHEELLFF CCLLEEAATTSS

There’s a separate compartment in the backof the cabinet that has space for shelves, seeTop View in Fig. 7. The shelves are held upwith L-shaped pin-style shelf supports, seeDetail in Fig. 12.

SEPARATORS. To hold the shelf supports(and also give the cabinet rigidity), I cut 3/4"plywood separators (G) to fit between theends and dividers, see Figs. 7 and 8.

SHELF SUPPORT CLEATS. Then to hold theshelf supports at the back of the cabinet, cutfour cleats (H) from 4/4 stock (13/16" actualthickness) to a width of 1" and the samelength as the separators, see Fig. 7.

SUPPORT HOLES. After the separatorsand cleats are cut to size, drill 1/4" holes forthe pin-style shelf supports, see Fig. 7. Tokeep the holes aligned in all the pieces, I laidout the holes centered on one of the cleatsand then used that cleat as a drilling guidefor the other cleats and separators. (Note:Since the separators fit into 1/4"-deepgrooves, center the holes in the separators3/4" in from the edges.)

To make the pieces completely inter-changeable (which makes assembly easi-er), I drilled the holes completely throughthe cleats and separators and kept the holesa uniform distance from each end.

MOUNTING HOLES. Next, to mount thecleats to the cabinet, drill three counter-sunk holes in each cleat, see Fig. 7.

ASSEMBLYOnce the holes are drilled, assembly canbegin. To check that everything fits as itshould, I started by dry assembling theentire cabinet with screws (counterboringthe screw holes, see Screw Detail in Fig.10.) Once I was sure the cabinet was square,I took out the screws and then applied gluebefore screwing it back together.

The procedure I used for assembly wasto start by attaching the dividers (D and E)to the top and bottom aligning the frontedges, see Fig. 8. Next, fit the separators(G) into the grooves in the dividers andglue and screw from the inside. Then attachthe ends (B and C) to the top, bottom, anddividers. And finally, glue and screw in theshelf support cleats (H), see Fig. 9.

Now plug all the counterbored screwholes, see Fig. 10.

FFIGURE 6

DRAWERRUNNER13”

14”NOTE:NO RUNNERIN TOP DADO

FRONTEDGE

BOTTOMRABBET

DETAIL!/2”

!/16”CHAMFER

#/4”

NOTE:ALIGN DRAWER RUNNERFLUSH WITH FRONT EDGE

G

H

FIGURE 7#/4” PLYWOOD

CUT FROM4/4 STOCK

!/4” DIA. THROUGHHOLES FOR

SHELF SUPPORTS

SEPARATORS(TWO NEEDED)

17 ”%/16

3 ”!/2

3 ”!/2

3 ”!/2

3 ”!/2

12 ”!/2#/4” #/4”

2”

2”

SHELFSUPPORTCLEATS

(FOUR NEEDED)

#/16” DIA.COUNTERSUNKSHANK HOLES

FOR MOUNTINGCLEATS

TOP VIEW

SHELFCOMPART-

MENT

DRAWERCOMPARTMENT

RIGHTDIVIDER

FRONTEDGE

BACKRABBET

LEFTDIVIDER

SHELFSUPPORTCLEATS SEPARATOR

1”

H

FIGURE 9

SHELFSUPPORT

CLEAT

#8 x 1 ” FhWOODSCREW

!/2

POSITIONCLEAT FLUSHWITH INSIDE

EDGE OFRABBETS

A

A

G

HE

B

CD

FIGURE 8

TOP

RIGHTEND SEPARATOR


!/2 SHELFSUPPORTCLEATS

LEFTDIVIDER

RIGHTDIVIDER

BOTTOM

LEFT END

BACK VIEW

FIGURE 10

SCREWDETAIL

BOTTOM

CLEATEND

COUNTERBOREFOR ” DIA.

PLUG!/2

DRILL ” DIA.SHANK HOLE

#/16DRILL ” PILOT HOLE

FOR #8 x 1 ”Fh WOODSCREW

#/32!/2


SHELF COMPARTMENT OPENINGWhen the basic cabinet is assembled, open-ings can be cut in the ends so the shelf com-partments can be reached from the sides ofthe cabinet, refer to Fig. 12. To get a cleanopening in the plywood, there’s a nifty trickusing a sabre saw and a router.

Start by standing the cabinet up on endand lay out the opening with a pencil. (Theopening corresponds to the inside edges ofthe cleat, top, bottom and separator.)

Next, drill 3/8" holes at each corner about1/8" inside the penciled outline, see Fig. 11.Then rough cut the opening with a sabresaw staying about 1/8" inside the outline,see Sabre Saw Detail in Fig. 11.

Now comes the trick. To clean up thelast 1/8", I used a flush trim router bit witha ball bearing pilot. The pilot runs againstthe inside of the cleat, top, bottom, and sep-arator while the cutter trims up the last1/8" of plywood, see Router Detail in Fig.11.

BACK PANEL. Next, cut the back panel (I)from a piece of 1/4" Masonite to fit the backopening created by the rabbets, and nail itto the back edges of the dividers, see Fig.12.

SHELVES. Then cut the shelves (J) from3/4" plywood to fit in the shelf compart-ments, see Fig. 12.

TRIM AND FILLTo cover all the plywood edges on the cab-inet and shelves, rip some 1/4"-thick trimstrips from 4/4 stock, see Step 1 in Fig. 13.Then cut them to width to match the thick-ness of the plywood, Step 2 in Fig. 13.

ADD THE STRIPS. Now glue and nail thetrim strips on with 1" brads and set theheads, see Fig. 14. (Note: The trim stripson the back edges of the cabinet hold in theback panel.) Finally, round over the topedges with a 1/8" round-over bit.

FILL THE GAPS. After adding the trimstrips, there are a couple gaps on the insidetop of the ends that should be filled. (Thesegaps were created when the grooves andrabbets were cut.) To fill the gaps I cut acouple pieces of scrap and glued them inplace, see Fig. 14.

SAWDUST OPENINGThere’s one more step to complete the basiccabinet - cutting the sawdust opening inthe top. This opening allows the dust andchips to collect in a plastic trash bag mount-ed inside the cabinet.

Cut a 10" x 13" opening 21/2" from theback edge of the top and centered betweenthe dividers (D and E), see Fig. 15. (Note:This opening will fit both the 10" Sears andDelta/Rockwell saws. For other saws,check the opening on the saw and cut a cor-responding opening in the cabinet.)

I

FIGURE 14!/8”

ROUNDOVER

FILLERS CUTTO FIT FROM

SCRAP!/4”

THICKTRIMSTRIPS

GLUE ANDNAIL TRIMSTRIPS ON

WITH1” BRADS

BACKPANEL

NOTE:SET BRADS

AND FILL HOLES

FIGURE 13 NOTE: USE THIN PUSH STICK

RIPFENCE

RIPFENCE

CUT TRIMSTRIPS FROM

4/4 STOCK!/4”

RIP TO WIDTHTO MATCHTHICKNESS

OF PLYWOOD

FIGURE 11

DRILL” DIA.

CORNERHOLES

#/8

LEFTEND

FINISHEDOPENING

LINE

!/8”

!/8” SABRE SAWCUT LINE

BOTTOM

SABRE SAW DETAIL

SEPARATOR

SEPARATOR

SHELFSUPPORT

HOLE

SHELFSUPPORT

HOLE

ROUTER DETAIL

FLUSHTRIMBIT

BALL BEARINGPILOT

I

J

FIGURE 12

FILLERS(SEE FIG. 14)

BACKPANEL

4dFINISHING

NAIL

BACK VIEW !/4” THICKTRIM STRIPS

!/4” THICKTRIM STRIP

SHELF

CUT TO FITFROM ”PLYWOOD

#/4

TRIMSTRIP

SHELF

PIN STYLESHELF SUPPORT

FIGURE 15

BACKEDGE

CUT OUTSAWDUSTOPENING

FRONTEDGE

RIGHTDIVIDER

1 ”!/2

2 ”!/2 13” 10”

1 ”!/2

LEFTDIVIDER

TOP VIEW


THE DRAWERSAfter the cabinet is complete, the eightdrawers can be built to fit the openings.There are two drawer heights, but they’reboth constructed the same way.

DRAWER FRONTS. Begin by cutting thefronts (K) for the four small drawers from4/4 stock to a width of 31/4" and the fronts(L) for the four large drawers to a width of51/4", see Fig. 16. To determine the lengthof all the fronts, measure the cabinet open-ing and subtract 1/8" to allow for a 1/16" gapon each side.

DRAWER SIDES. Next, cut eight smalldrawer sides (M) and eight large drawersides (N) from 1/2" stock to match the widthof the fronts, and cut them all to a commonlength of 133/4", see Fig. 16.

The drawer sides have two grooves. Cutone groove 13/16" wide on the outside of eachdrawer side for the drawer runners to slidein. Also, cut a 1/4"-wide groove on the insideof each drawer side and drawer front toaccept the 1/4" bottom, see Fig. 18.

JOINTS. The drawer sides are joined tothe fronts with rabbet joints that aresecured with screws. Cut the rabbets on thedrawer fronts to match the thickness ofthe drawer sides (1/2"), see Detail in Fig.16.

Then to accept the drawer back, cut a1/2"-wide dado on the inside of the drawersides 3/8" from the back edge.

DRAWER BACKS. Now cut the drawerbacks (O and P) from 1/2" stock to fitbetween the dadoes in the sides and wideenough to rest on top of the drawer bottoms(right at the top of the grooves).

Now clamp the drawer together and drillcountersunk screw holes through the sidesand into the front and back, see Fig. 16.

DRAWER BOTTOMS. Temporarily screwthe drawer together, and measure and cuteight drawer bottoms (Q) from 1/4" Masoniteto fit in the grooves and under the back.Now assemble each drawer with glue andscrews. Then slide in the bottom, and nailit to the drawer back.

When the drawer is dry, round over theinside top edges. Then mount a pull on thefront of each drawer, see Fig. 16.

CHIP CATCHERThe chips and sawdust that fall throughthe opening in the top of the cabinet arecaught in a plastic trash bag. To hold thebag (and make it easier to pull out for emp-tying), I built a chip catcher frame.

FRAME. Start by cutting the front/backpieces (R) from 4/4 stock to a width of 2" anda length of 103/8", see Fig. 19. Then cut twosides (S) 2" wide and 181/8" long.

Now cut rabbets on the front and backpieces, and screw the frame together, seeFig. 20.

KEEPER GROOVE. The trash bag is heldto the frame with a large rubber band or“bungee” tie-down cord that fits in a cove

Q

FIGURE 16

DRAWER CONSTRUCTION

TACK ” MASONITEBOTTOM TO BACK

WITH BRADS

!/4

BACK SIDE

BOTTOM” MASONITE!/4

FRONT

DRAWERRUNNERGROOVE

#8 x 1” FhWOODSCREW

SMALL DRAWERHEIGHT = 3 ”LARGE DRAWERHEIGHT = 5 ”

!/4

!/4

JOINT DETAIL

!/2” STOCK

BACK SIDE

CENTER PULL 1 ”FROM TOP EDGE

OF EACH DRAWER

%/8!/2”

STOCK

4/4 STOCK

FRONT

11 ”!/4

13 ”#/41 ”&/8

11 ”&/8

#/16”

#/8” %/8”

!/2”

!/2”

!/4”

FIGURE 17

DRAWERRUNNER

!/16” GAPS

!/16” GAPS

3 ”!/4

5 ”!/4

1 ” TYPICAL%/8

S

R

R

FIGURE 19

BACK

CUT ALL PIECESFROM 4/4 STOCK

SIDE

18 ”!/8

2”

10 ”#/8

CHIP CATCHERCONSTRUCTION

FRONT


!/2

FIGURE 20SIDE

4/4STOCK

4/4STOCK

CORNERDETAIL

!/2”!/4”

FRONT


!/2

FIGURE 18!/4”

!/4”

!/4”

!/4”

1”

1”

!#/16”

!#/16”

3 ”!/4

!/4” ROUNDOVERAFTER ASSEMBLY

!/4” ROUNDOVERAFTER ASSEMBLY

SMALL DRAWER

#/16”

#/16”

LARGE DRAWER5 ”!/4

T

FIGURE 22 #8 x 1” FhWOODSCREW

18 ”%/8

CHIPCATCHERRUNNER

” THICK x 1 ” WIDEMASONITE

!/4 !/4SIDE FRONT

FIGURE 21 ROUTERTABLEFENCE1”

CHIPCATCHERON EDGE

!/2” COREBOX BIT

!/4”

FIGURE 23ALIGN WITHINSIDE EDGE

CHIPCATCHER

1 ”!/4

MASONITERUNNER

SIDE


around the frame. To cut the cove, use a1/2" core box bit on the router table and routall four sides of the frame, see Fig. 21.

RUNNERS. The frame is held in the cabi-net with 1/4" Masonite runners (T) that rideon top of a couple cleats, refer to Fig. 25.Screw the runners down to the top edge ofthe frame so the inside edge is flush withthe inside of the frame, see Figs. 22 and23.

CLEATS. Next, cut two cleats (U) from4/4 stock to a width of 11/4" and a length of21". To help guide the frame into place,chamfer the top front corner of the cleats,see Cleat Detail in Fig. 25.

Now screw the cleats to the dividers 21/4"from the front of the cabinet and down fromthe top, see Figs. 24 and 27.

DOORAfter I was sure the chip catcher wouldslide easily into the opening, I began workon the door that covers the chip catcheropening. The door is made with a pegboardpanel that provides additional space to hangtools and saw blades.

STILES AND RAILS. I built the door usingstub tenon and groove joinery (seeWoodsmith No. 29 for more on making thisjoint). First, cut the stiles (V) from 1/2" stockto a width of 11/4" and 1/8" less in length thanthe height of the opening, see Fig. 26. Thenmeasure the width of the opening and cutthe rails (W) to length, subtracting thewidth of both stiles and a 1/16" gap on bothsides of the door, and adding an allowancefor the 1/4"-long stub tenons on each end.(In my case, this made the rails 107/8" long.)

GROOVES AND TENONS. Now cut 1/8"-widegrooves (to accept the 1/8" pegboard panel)on the inside edge of each stile and rail.Then cut stub tenons on the ends of therails to match the grooves.

PEGBOARD PANEL. After the tenons arecut, dry assemble the frame, and cut thepegboard panel (X) to size to fit in thegrooves, see Fig. 26. Then glue the frametogether with the panel in the grooves.

HINGE MORTISES. Once the door is gluedtogether, cut 2"-long hinge mortises in theleft stile, see Fig. 26. (Note: Mortise to adepth slightly less than the thickness ofthe hinge knuckle.) Then mount the hingesin the mortises, and mount the door to theinside of the opening so that the face setsback 11/4" from the front edge of the cabi-net, see Fig. 27.

HANDLE AND CATCH. To complete the dooradd a handle (pull), and mount a magneticcatch to the divider and catch plate on theback of the door, see Fig. 27.

CASTER PADS. To hold casters to the bot-tom of the cabinet, I glued caster pads (Y)on each of the corners. Then I screwed thecasters to the pads, see Fig. 28.

FINISHING. I finished the cabinet withthree coats of Deft Clear Wood Finish, andthen screwed the saw to the top with lagscrews and Masonite spacers, see Fig. 29.

Y

FIGURE 28!/4 !/2” x 1 ”

LAG SCREWWASHER

!/2”

4”

!/2”

5”CASTER

PAD” PLYWOOD#/4

U

FIGURE 24CROSS SECTION


!/2 TOP

%/16

CLEAT

BUNGEECORD

TRASHBAG

FIGURE 29WASHER

!/4” x 1”LAG SCREW

!/4” x 1”SQUARE

MASONITESPACER

TABLE SAWMOUNTING

FLANGE

CHIPCATCHER CLEAT

FIGURE 25 CHIPCATCHERCLEATS

CLEATDETAIL

CHAMFER

1 ”!/4

!#/16” 21”

V

V

X

W

W

FIGURE 2610 ”&/8

10 ”#/8

RAIL1 ”!/4

2”

STILE

DOOR PANEL” PEGBOARD!/8

15 ”#/16

10 ”&/8

1 ”!/4

1 ”!/4

5”

17 ”#/8

DRILL HOLESTO MATCHHANDLE

!/8!/4” GROOVE,

” DEEPCENTERED ON

THICKNESSOF STOCK

!/4” LONG STUB TENONCUT TO FIT GROOVE

RAIL

STILE

MORTISESLIGHTLY

LESS THANTHICKNESSOF HINGEKNUCKLE

FIGURE 27

LEFTDIVIDER

CHIPCATCHER

CLEAT

2” BUTTHINGE

TRIM STRIP

2 ”!/4

1 ”!/4

TOP VIEW

DOOR

MAGNETICCATCH

CATCH PLATE

CENTER DOORHANDLE ON STILE

RIGHTDIVIDER


After building the table saw cabinet, Idecided to add an outfeed table. I wantedthis table to be permanently attached tothe saw (not a separate unit that has to beset up each time you use it - like a rollerstand).

I also wanted to be able to fold the out-feed table down so the saw could be rolledagainst a wall. This design does just that.(And it can be built to fit any saw, with orwithout the cabinet.)

ARMSThe outfeed table is supported by two arms(A) that are attached to the extension wingsof the table saw, see Fig. 1. Begin by cut-ting these arms from 4/4 stock (13/16" actu-al thickness) to a width of 31/2" and a lengthof 40".

Note: This length assumes the table sawtop is 27" deep - that’s typical for most 10"Sears and Delta/Rockwell saws - so thearms project 13" behind the saw.

LAG SCREW SLOT. The outfeed table isheld to the arms and pivots to the “down”position on two lag screws. These screwsslide in 1/4"-wide slots routed into the arms.

To make these slots, first drill two 1/4"-dia.end holes centered on the width of eacharm and 81/2" apart, see Fig. 1. Now cleanout the area between the holes with a 1/4"straight bit on the router table (or with ahand-held router and edge guide). Rout ina series of passes increasing the depth untilthe bit cuts through the workpiece.

NOTCH FOR RAIL. After the slot is routed,cut a notch in the right arm to fit aroundthe saw’s rear rip fence rail, see Fig. 1. (Icut a 2"-deep by 21/4"-wide notch. This fitsaround the rails on most saws.)

TRIM OFF CORNERS. Next, to break thesharp corners, I trimmed a 45° angle offthe bottom corners of the arms and rout-ed a 1/8" chamfer on the outside edges, seeBolt Detail in Fig. 1.

ATTACHING THE ARMS. The arms are bolt-ed to the outside edges of the saw exten-sion wings (or the table itself if it doesn’thave extensions), see Bolt Detail in Fig. 1.(Note: If the table top or extensions don’thave holes in the edges, drill two 1/4"-dia.holes near each end.)

Then to locate the bolt holes in the arms,clamp the arms to the edge of the tablewith the top edge of the arm aligned flushwith the table saw top. Reach under thetable and mark through the bolt holes.

Once the holes are marked, remove thearms from the saw, and drill a 5/16"-dia.(oversized) hole at each mark. Then bolt

the arms to the saw with 1/4" bolts, seeDetail in Fig. 1. (The holes are drilled over-size to allow for final adjustment.)

THE TABLEAfter the arms are securely mounted, workcan begin on the outfeed table. The tableis made out of a piece of 3/4" plywood fas-tened to the top of a support frame, seeFig. 2.

PLYWOOD TOP. To determine the width ofthe plywood top (B), measure the distancebetween the arms, and cut the top about1/16" less than this measurement so it won’tbind between the arms, see Fig. 1. Then

cut it to a length of 24". (Note grain direc-tion in Fig. 2.)

MITER GAUGE SLOTS. Since the saw’smiter gauge often gets pushed beyond theback of the saw, miter gauge slots have tobe cut into the outfeed table. To determinethe location of these slots, I clamped theplywood top into place between the arms.

Then I transferred the location of theslots to the plywood and routed the slotsslightly wider than the existing saw slots.

FRAME SIDES. Next, the support framecan be built. Start by cutting two framesides (C) to a width of 11/2" and to the samelength as the plywood top (24").

Outfeed Table

A

FIGURE 1 40”10 ”#/4 2 ”!/4

1 ”#/4

1 ”#/4

3 ”!/2

8 ”!/2

2”

!/4”WIDESLOT

NOTE:NOTCH ONLY ONE ARMFOR REAR RIP FENCE RAIL 1 ”!/4

RIP FENCERAIL

PLYWOOD TOP EQUALS ” LESSTHAN DISTANCE BETWEEN ARMS

!/16

BOLT DETAILALIGN ARM FLUSH WITH

TOP OF TABLE SAW

%/16”DIA.HOLE

!/4 !/2” x 1 ”BOLT

!/8”CHAMFER


Now clamp these pieces under the ply-wood top flush with the edges, and drillcounterbored screw holes, see Fig. 3.

STRETCHERS. After the top is screweddown to the sides, measure the distancebetween the sides. In my case this was385/16". Then cut two stretchers (D) to thislength.

Now screw one stretcher under the farend of the table and another 101/2" from thenear end, see Fig. 2. Finally, drill and screwthrough the side frames into the ends ofthe stretchers and plug all the screw holes,see Fig. 3.

SUPPORT BLOCKS. To add a little morestrength to the pivot point on the arms, Iglued a support block (E) to the front (open)end of each arm and rounded over the bot-tom to a 1/2" radius, see Detail in Fig. 2.

GLIDE RAILSTo support the table, I added glide rails(F) to the arms (A). To determine the widthof these glide rails, clamp the table betweenthe arms so the top is flush with the topedge of the arms. Then measure the dis-tance from the bottom of the frame side(C) to the bottom of the arm, see Fig. 4.Now cut the glide rails to a length of 12" andmount them to the arms, see Fig. 5.

GUARD NOTCH. You will have to cut out anotch in the front of the table for the safe-ty guard. The notch has to be wide enoughso the guard can tip to a full 45°. For aSears saw this means a notch about 21/4"wide and 31/2" deep, see Fig. 2.

CHAMFER EDGES. After the notch is cut,rout a 1/8" chamfer around all the outsideedges of the table top and frame.

ASSEMBLYThe table is connected to the arms with lagscrews used as pivot pins. To locate them,clamp the table in place so the front edgeis aligned with the notch in the right arm,see Fig. 6. Then drill through the front endof the slot into the frame side in two steps.

First, use a 1/4" brad point bit in the 1/4"slot to drill in just enough to make a cen-tering hole, see Step 1 in Fig. 7. Then drilla pilot hole with a 3/16" bit, see Step 2.Finally, screw in a 1/4" x 2" lag screw witha washer (but not too tight), see Step 3.

STOP PIN. The last step is to prevent theoutfeed table from sliding out of position.Clamp the table into place with the lagscrew tight against the front end of theslot. Then drill a 1/4"-dia. hole up from thebottom through the glide rail and 3/8" intoeach of the frame sides, see Fig. 8.

Then lift up the table and glue a 1/2"-longdowel into the hole in the frame side, seeDetail in Fig. 8.

Now the table is ready to use. To put itinto the “down” position, lift up slightly(enough to lift the pin out of the hole), slidethe table forward, and pivot it down.

E

E

B

C

C

D

FIGURE 224”

CHAMFER OUTSIDEEDGES ”!/8

NOTCH IS CUT SOTABLE SAW GUARDCAN BE TIPPED TO

A FULL 45° STRETCHER

DETAIL

!/2”RADIUS

3”1 ”!/2

SUPPORTBLOCK 1 ”!/2

10 ”!/2

CUT ALL FRAME PIECESFROM 4/4 STOCK

A

F

C


TABLE TOPAND ARMSHOULDBE FLUSH

#8 x 1 ”WOODSCREW

!/4

GLIDERAIL

2 ”!/4

1 ”!/4%/8”


SCREWHOLEPLUGS #/8”

#8 x 1 ”WOOD-SCREWS

!/4

#/4”

1 ”!/2

#/8”

#/16” DEEP

NOTE: COUNTERBORESCREW HOLES ” DEEP#/16

FIGURE 5

CUT GLIDERAILS FROM4/4 STOCK

!/2”

!/2”12”

2 ”!/4

FIGURE 8 CLAMP TABLETO GLIDE RAIL

!/4”HOLE

CENTEREDON GLIDE

RAIL

LIFT UP

PULL OUT

CROSS SECTIONSTOP PIN DETAIL

STOP PIN

STOP PINHOLE

1”

STOP PIN( ” DOWEL)!/4

! / 2”

!/8”STOP PIN

HOLE

SLIGHTLYCHAMFERBOTTOM

1

2

FIGURE 6

CLAMP FRONT EDGEOF OUTFEED TABLEFLUSH WITH NOTCH

DRILL INTO FRAME SIDEWITH BIT CENTERED AGAINST

END OF SLOT

FIGURE 7 CROSS SECTION

USE ” BRAD POINTBIT TO MARK CENTER

OF HOLE

!/4 DRILL A ” PILOT HOLE,2” DEEP CENTERED ON

FIRST HOLE

#/16

NOTE:DON’TOVERTIGHTENLAG SCREWS !/4” x 2”

LAG SCREW

1 2

3