Parfumuri
Mirosul(olfactia)-Rol -Protectie - Fiziologic- Natura - Adaptare - Memorie - Sensibilitate - Selectivitate - Intensitate, caliate
Mirosul organismului:-Determinant genetic-Modificat de stilul de viata, in special de cel alimentar
- Carne- Peste- Condimente( usturoi)
Mirosul
Cãile senzitive1- odorant; 2- aroma; 3- pata galbenã; 4,8- traseu
neuronic; 5- zona corticalã de analizã; 6- papile gustative linguale; 7- papile gustative paletale; 9- formaţii intermediare
Structura şi modul de acţiune al semnalului olfactiv A-vector-semnal; AC-adenilciclazã; C-proteinã canal; G-proteina de legare a guanozin-trifosfatului
Istoria parfumurilor
5000 BC – Egyptian First Dynasty – earliest evidence3000 BC – Mesopotamia: extraction pots, early apparatus1400 BC – Book of Exodus “anointing with oils”370 BCE – Theophrastus writings on use of oils to make fragrances
longer lasting.800 AD – Alembic distillation apparatus – Jabir ibn Hayyan1200 AD – Essential oils produced in pharmacies1600 AD – Quality of many natural extracts established1860 AD – First synthetics (naturally occuring materials)1900 AD – First non-natural synthetics (ionones, nitro-musks)
Alembic Distillation Appratus
• Popularity of perfume waned in Europe after the fall of the Roman empire, returned with the crusaders
• Distillation of essential oils• Attributed to Avicenna, Arab,
late 900’s
Perfumes in 18th century Europe• More flowery as
opposed to heavier scents
• Numerous ways to use perfumes, elaborate containers
• Vinaigrettes• Pommanders go out of
style with availability of liquid perfume
Eau de Cologne
• Germany, invented an 1709 by an Italian barber
• Rosemary, orange flower, and bergamot oils distilled in grape spirits
• Non-greasy• Napolean decreed the
formula must be public in 1810
Perfume odorant types today
• Concretes– purest, soft plant parts are placed in solvent
• Absolutes– concretes concentrated in alcohol
• Resinoids– extracted like concretes, from plant secretions
• Tinctures– direct extraction with ethanol
• Distilled essential oils– most common modern methods
Types of fragances
Concentraţie şi compoziţii
Extras de parfum: 20%-40% compuşi aromaticiApă de parfum (Eau de parfum): 10-30% compuşi aromaticiApă de toaletă (Eau de toilette: 5-20% compuşi aromaticiApă de colonie (Eau de Cologne): 2-3% compuşi aromatici
Perfume anatomy• Top notes
– immediately perceived, highly volatile, bright, often citrus, ginger
• Middle notes– a minute to an hour; often rose, lavender
• Bottom notes– often animal, resin scents, perhaps vanilla, sandlewood
Business of scents (perfumes)
• 10-20 billion dollar industry• Only a few companies are doing smell R & D• They work for two main client groups;
household products companies, and perfume companies
• Lots of secrecy
Grasse, in Provence, France
• Started with tannery perfumes– for scenting gloves?
• A local company got a patent on the distillation system
• 1720’s become a local industry
• Good sources for jasmine, rose, orange
• Modern perfume industry started here
- Grasse has had a prospering perfume industry since the end of the 18th century.
- Grasse is the centre of the French perfume industry and is known as the world's perfume capital (la capitale mondiale des parfums).
- Many "noses" (or, in French, "Les nez" (plural)/"Le nez" (singular)) are trained or have spent time in Grasse to distinguish over 2,000 kinds of scent.
- Grasse produces over two-thirds of France's natural aromas (for perfume and for food flavourings).
- This industry turns over more than 600 million euros a year.
-Grasse's particular microclimate encouraged the flower farming industry. It is warm and sufficiently inland to be sheltered from the sea air.
-Jasmine, a key ingredient of many perfumes, was brought to southern France in the 16th century.
-Twenty-seven tonnes of jasmine are now harvested in Grasse annually.
- There are numerous old 'parfumeries' in Grasse, such as Molinard, Fragonard and Galimard, each with tours and a museum.
Materii primeOdoranti, diluanti, fixatori
-Ingrediente aromatice naturale-Ingrediente aromatice sintetice-Fixatori- permit parfumului sa se evapore incet si sa
miroase cat mai mult timp-Solvent(apa si alcool)
What are Fragrance Ingredients?
ROH
RCHO
R
O
R O
O
RO
O
alcohols
aldehydes
ketones
estersR
SH
OH
N
R
phenolics
olefins
mercaptans
amines
- Chemicals having 6 – 18 carbon atoms (mostly), and usually one oxygenated functional group. - There are also some multi-functional materials as well as a few sulfur- and nitrogen containing chemical compound.
Performance in Use
• Volatility– Function of molecular weight (how many carbons)
and chemical type.
• Stability– Function of chemical type and use condition (acidity,
alkalinity, oxidizing, open, closed).
• Odor Threshold and dose/response– Function of chemical structure (molecular shape and
chemical type).
Clasificarea materiilor prime odorante• Naturale -Vegetale
-flori ( trandafir, iasomie, mimoze, narcise, lacrimioare, tuberose, plumeria, muscata, flori de salcam ,flori de portocal, flori de ylang-ylang, cuisoara)-fructe (citrice, fructe de ienupar, vanilie) - frunze si parti lemnoase( lavanda, salvie, rozmarin, viola(panseluta), frunze de citrice) - scoarta de copac( scortisoara, casarila)- lemn (santal, palisandru, cedru, mesteacan, ienupar, pin)- radacini, rizomi si bulbi (rizomi de iris, radacini de vetiver, rizomi de ghimbir)- seminte (boabe de cumaru, seminte de morcov, coriandru, cacao, chimen, nucsoara, anason)- rasini(tamaie, mir, rasini de pin si brad, etc. )
- Animale (secretii)- musk (mosc), civet(zibeta), ambergris (ambra)(casalot), castoreum(castor), fagure
• Sintetice- calone, linalool, cumarina, salicilati, etc.
Obtinerea parfumului- composing perfumes
Obtinerea parfumului- composing perfumes-poate dura ani de zile-poate contine pana la 800 de ingrediente
- expert- parfumator- nez(nas)- parfumuri functionale- parfumuri fine
-Colectarea- plantele sunt culese(adesea cu mana) si aduse din toate zonele lumii -ingredientele sintetice- obtinute in laborator
-Extractia- obtinerea ingredientelor aromatice prin diferite metode de extractie-Amestecarea- rolul parfumatorului-Imbatranirea parfumului- poate dura luni sau ani-Controlul calitatii
Metode de obtinere a odorantilor naturali
- Macerarea(extractie cu solvent)- cea mai folosita metoda de obtinere- dureaza de la ore la luni- hexan, dimetil eter- "concret"
- extractie cu lichide supercritice- CO2-"absolut"- extractie cu etanol- "tinctura"- extractie cu grasime- "pomada"
- Distilarea- antrenarea cu vapori ( hidrodistilare) - distilarea uscata - distilarea fractionata
- Expresie- Enfleurage
Extractia - extractoare statice- materialul vegetal este imobil, imersat în solvent
- recirculare exterioara- extractoare mobile (rotative)- materialul vegetal este încãrcat într-un
tambur rotativ, venind permanent în contact cu o cantitate de solvent - cantitate mai mica de solventi
Narcisse Concrete
Avantaje: -consum termic redus, - posibilitatea excluderii contactului cu oxigenul, - inexistenţa problemelor derivate din prezenţa rezidurilor de
solvenţi în extract - utilizarea unor gaze netoxice -CO2 - CO2- nepolar- folosit la extractia aromaticelor nepolare - temperatura mica- putere de solvatare mare
- compusi extrasi raman nealterati- absolut - se recupereaza "solventul"
Extractie cu lichide supercritice
Advantages of CO2- It is a natural product- chemically inert, non-flammable- non-toxic- easy to completely eliminate- selective- readily available- Inexpensive
Extractie cu lichide supercritice- CO2
- extracţia prin SFE se compune din douã etape: extracţia şi colectarea analitului- colectarea analitului: - “on-line” în gaz-cromatograf sau SFC (supercriticalfluid-cromatograf),
- “off-line” prin depresurizarea lichidului supercritic într-un vas colector.
Extractie cu lichide supercritice
Disadvantage: Technical constraints- High cost of initial investment
Advantages:- obtain extracts which are very close in composition to the natural product.- It is possible to adjust the selectivity & viscosity, etc by fine tuning the temperature & pressure- All result in the increase of popularity of this type of method
Antrenarea cu vapori de apã
Antrenarea cu vapori de apã se practicã în cinci variante diferite:- antrenarea la foc direct- antrenarea în curent de vapori- antrenarea cu vapori sub presiune- antrenarea la presiune redusã - procedeu nou de antrenare cu vapori de apã
Florentine vessel
Expresie
-metoda -”cold pressed”-oil is forced from the material under high mechanical pressure and generally produces a good quality oil
Enfleurage
- grasimile absorb componentii odoranti- grasimea se depune pe placi de sticla montata in rame de lemn- startul de grasime se zgarie cu un pieptene- se depun petalele de flori pe suprafata de grasime- 3 luni- ramele se intorc si se bat pentru a provoca desprinderea petalelor epuizate- se inlocuiesc cu unele noi- un kg grasime- 3 kg petale- grasimea parfumata se extrage cu alcool- absolut
Lavender
• Mint family• Sterile hybrid of two species (L.
angustifolia and L. latifolia) most often used today
• Obtained by steam distillation• More than 300 components,
linalool important• In many men’s fragrances (fern
note)
Rose• Rosa centifolia and
damascena• Petals extracted with
steam or solvents• Used in many perfumes,
foods
RoseMost important constituents:
OH
OH
OOH
b-phenethyl alcohol
citronellollinalool
b-damascenone
Geranium
• Pelargonium graveolens• Oils distilled from leaves and
stems• Much cheaper than rose,
similar fragrance in some types
• Essence from Reunion island especially fruity
• Also in drinks, insect repellent
Geraniol and related compounds
• Found in a variety of plants
• Also produced synthetically
Jasmine• Jasminum grandiflorum• Volatile solvents now used,
used to be enfleurage• A ton of flowers to yield a
kilo of essence• Extremely expensive• Wide range of “jasmonoid”
compounds, biosynthesis perhaps similar to prostaglandins
• Benzyl acetate and related compounds common
Jasmine
Most important constituents
O O
COOCH3
NH
cis-jasmone methyl jasmonate
indole
Tuberose
• Polyanthes tuberosa• Amaryllis relative• Expensive, low yield to
extract, done by enfleurage until relatively recently
• Many fragrance compounds (eugenols, nerol) also some weird tuberose lactones
Orange
• Citrus species• Flowers, leaves, fruits, even
bark all used• Distillation or solvents used• Wide range of compounds
isolated, including linalool
Bergamot
• Citrus bergamia• Zests from unripe fruits
used• Harmonious with many
other compounds; contains linalool, limonene does not dominate in this as it does in orange oil
• Coumarins removed from essence (photosensitizing)
• In Earl Grey tea, as well as perfumes, soaps
• Eau de Colognes
Iris of Florence
• Iris pallida• Violet-scented rhizomes
(orris root) used to produce a concrete with iron in myristic acid (called a butter)
• In perfume with heavy, woody notes
ylang-ylang
• Cananga odorata, related plants
• From SE Asia (?)• Annonaceae• Very floral scent• Several common
compounds (eugenols, linalool) also
• p-Cresyl methyl ether – stinks by itself, but blends
well
Patchouli
• Shrub in the mint family• Pogostemon cablin • Distilled dried leaves yield
several important fragrances
• Distinctive strong odor, but also mixes well
Patchouli
Most important constituents:
tricyclic sesquiterpene alcohols
HO HO HO
Vanilla• Native to Mexico, much
now grown in Madagascar• More than 200 compounds
have been identified• Extract used in small
amounts in perfumes; it’s very strong
• Lots of synthetic vanillin relatives used
vanillin
Vanillin analogs, some with carnation, cocoa butter overtones
Oakmoss
• Evernia prunastri • A lichen found in
much of Europe• Some constituents
now synthesized
Olibanum (incense tree)
• Resin from a Boswellia tree
• Resinous, woody smell• Used in some perfumes
(Opium, Jicky)
Sandalwood• Alpha Santalol:
• Beta Santalol:
OH
OH
Fixatives
• Various animal products– Ambergis, musk, castoreum, civet– synthetics often used now– e.g. ambergris compound from sage
GINGER: Zingiber officinale• Definition: Ginger is the peeled or unpeeled
rhizome of Zingiber officinale (Zingiberaceae).
• Common Names: Jamaican ginger, Ginger• Geographical sources
• Jamaica• China• India Africa
• HistoryCultivated in India from the earliest times. Used
by Greeks and Romans and was a common article of commerce in the European Middle Ages.
Zingiber officinale - CONSTITUENTS• Volatile oils (1 – 2%)
– Camphene– Cineole– Citral– Borneol
• Gingerol – pungent component – Anti-inflammatory• Shogaols – increases bile secretion
• Sesquiterpene HC’s– Zingiberene & Zingiberol (Sesquiterpene alcohol)
• Resins• Starch • Mucilage
CINNAMON: Cinnamomum zeylanicum
• DEFINITION: Cinnamon is the dried bark of Cinnamomum zeylanicum (Lauraceae).
• GEOGRAPHICAL SOURCESCultivated in Sri Lanka, South India, Seychelles, Madagascar, Martinique, Cayenne, Jamaica & Brazil.
Cinnamomum - CONSTITUENTS
• Volatile oils (at least 1.2 %)
• Phlobaphenes• Mucilage• Calcium Oxalate• Starch
CLOVEDEFINITION: Cloves are the dried flower buds
of Syzygium aromaticum (Eugenia caryophyllus), (Myrtaceaea).
Geographical SourcesMolucca or Clove Islands, Zanzibar, Pemba,
Madagascar, Indonesia & Brazil.
CONSTITUENTS14-21% Volatile oils• Mainly eugenol & isoeugenol• Sitosterol• Stigmasterol• Campesterol
Terpene derivatives
CH3
OH
H3C CH3
Menthol
(peppermint oil)
CH3
O
H3C CH2
Carvone
(caraway oil)
CH3
H3C CH3
OH
Thymol
(thyme oil)
Others-Ginger, cardamom, pepper (Piper nigrum), clove
Aromatic compounds
OH
OCH3
Eugenol(clove oil)
OCH3
CH3
Anethole(anise oils)
CHO
Cinnamaldehyde(cinnamon oil)
CH2
First Synthetics
ONO2
O2N NO2
methyl ionone gamma musk xylol
HO
OO
O O
vanillin coumarin
H3C
Synthesis of Vanillin
HO
O
HO
O
HO
OO
eugenol(from clove oil)
isoeugenol
CrVI or MnVII
H3C H3C
H3C
OH-
Synthesis of Coumarin
CHO
OH O
O O
O O
+
(Perkin condensation)
salicylaldehydeaceticanhydride
KOAc
Synthesis of Ionones
OO
O
O
S/A
+
citral 2-butanone
"gamma methyl ionone"
H3PO4
OH-
Sandalwood
• Alpha Santalol:
• Beta Santalol:
OH
OH
Musks
O
O2N NO2
O
O
O
O
muscone muskalactone
musk ketone Galaxolide
Research and Development• Analytical
– Application of new GC methods (head space with SPME)
– Use of more sensitive and better computerized instrumentation: GC-MS, NMR, FT-IR.
• Live flowers – above methods used to analyze odors of flowers before picking.
• New extraction methods for naturals: supercritical CO2
Synthetic Research
Considerations:• Structure – relationship to materials of
known value – natural or synthetic• Raw materials • Process
(often a combination of all three)
Synthetic ResearchPractical only for largest companies.• Hundreds of materials synthesized each
year for evaluation.• In-depth evaluation must include testing in
fragrances and in applications.• Decision to develop cannot be taken
lightly.
Development of New Synthetics
• Processes must be very well worked out in laboratory, pilot plant and factory.
• Best economics, safety and workplace hygiene.
• Testing is required to meet industry safety standards and international PMN requirements for all new chemicals.
• Cost to register new ingredients worldwide is well over $300,000.
Synthetic vs natural: what are the issues?
• “The truth about fragrance oils” “Each essential oil comes from just one source, a living plant.
There are no chemicals involved.”
• Remember, they are all chemicals!• We may actually know more about the synthetic
mixtures than the natural ones
Concerns
• Toxicity to people?• Allergens?• Increasing asthma incidence?• Unknown compounds in the mix?• Persistence in the environment?
– Example: synthetic musk
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