LAND OF CHEESELES
BO
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Several di erent cheeses are produced in the Jura mountains: Mont d’Or, Comté, Morbier and the speciality of the area, Bleu de Gex - also known as Bleu du Haut-Jura or Septmoncel.
According to local legend, a monk from Chézery revealed the secret of making this veined cheese to a farmer from Hautes-Combes to thank him for his courage and hospitality.
In the early 19th century, the communes of Les Moussières, Bellecombe and Les Bouchoux made only this type of cheese.
Louis wasn't there... He's gone up to l’Enversy to help Gaston with kidding his goats.He asked his wife to give me two sacks of linseed. I'm going to get the press going soonto make linseed oil. I still need 3 more sacks before I can start production.A farmer from Très-la-Ville told me he'd come over soon and bring me some of hisharvest. He needs some to treat his woodwork.Flocon has a heavy load and I get the feeling he's in a rush to get back to the mill. But I still stop at Petite Combe farm to pick up a round of blue cheese.
False "Fruitière" is
the French name for a cheese cooperative.
Origin of the word "fruitière": A place where
farmers pool the fruits of their labours
(in this case milk).
Skimmed cow's milkheated to 27 °C
Rennet + Penicillium
INOCULATION AND MILK RIPENING
1CUTTING AND DRAINING
2STIRRING AND FILTERING
3
WheyCurds
4
70/80 litresof curd
Micro-perforated plastic mould to allow drainage
Linen or jute cloth
MOULDING
TURNING AND STAMPING
5
1 to 2 hours
Casein
RIPENING AND PIERCING
7
3 to 5 weeksCellar at 12°C and
80% humidity
Piercing allows oxygen to enter which promotes growth of the Penicillium mould
spruce
SALTING
6
Tub
FROM FAMILY PRODUCTION TO COOPERATIVES
THE DIFFERENT STAGES OF MAKING BLEU DE GEX
Until the 18th century, farms would pool their milk production to make cheese. It was made on their farms.
From the 18th to 19th century, milk and cheese production slowly changed from being food for local consumption to food for market.
Local farmers (or "carriers") specialised in exporting cottage-industry products to large urban centres (Geneva, Lyon, Paris, etc.)
In the 19th century, collective dairies were set up so that cheese-makers had all their equipment in one place and no longer had to travel. This was the start of cheese-making cooperatives or "chalets".
In the 1920s, the commune had 4 chalets (still visible today in the village and in the hamlets of Désertin, Tailla and Sur la Roche), and 8 cheese vendors.
Between 1913 and 1914, a chalet was built in La Pesse.
In 1979, milk from Les Bouchoux "went up" to La Pesse for the fi rst time. None of the chalets in the village are still operational.
In 1959, Les Bouchoux had 69 dairy producers. Herds consisted of 2 to 15 cows. Today, the commune of Les Bouchoux has only three dairy farms, with herds of 40 to 60 cows.
The closest cheese dairy still in operation is in the commune of Les Moussières.
"Model Chalet" in Tailla
False "Fruitière" is
the French name for a cheese cooperative.
Origin of the word "fruitière": A place where
farmers pool the fruits of their labours
(in this case milk).
True or false?Are the caves where
cheese is matured called "fruitières" in French
because they are designed to produce a fruity fl avour?
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