1. KAREN CHIANG Public Relations Spring 2013 Parsons The New
School for Design
2. Table of Contents Cover Page..1 Table of Contents..2 Lead
Articles & Sections.......3-8 Fashion Week Report9-24 Five
Trends.25-30 Three Top Shows31-32 Press Release.33-34 WWD Editors
List.35-36
3. Lead Articles & Sections K A R E N C H I A N G
4. Friday,February8,2013 Lead Article Playing for Keeps by
Iman, founder and CEO of Iman Cosmetics Iman cosmetics understands
that there is a dierent market that demands cosmetics that matches
their skin tone. Great marketing strategy, they stressed diversity.
They are the pioneer in the eld of cosmetics for dierent ethnics
Iman Cosmetics tapped into the culture itself, to understand what
the market needs and wants. For example, hiring people from local
communities for focus groups and learning their language Sections
Beauty Marc Jacobs Moves Show Eye Fashion Scoops Multicultural
Consumer New York Collections Fall 2013 10 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8,
2013 beauty beauty brand that lled the gap for black women because
it was deeply personal for me. It was more than foundations and
powders; it was ap- pealing to a deep psychologi- cal need that I
think all black women needed at that time: to be told that they
were beauti- ful, invited to sit at the cool table and courted in
high style. However, as we gathered more information about the game
we were in, we started to shift into the more holistic vision that
we are known for now throughout our positioning and ad- vertising:
Women of all skin tones want to look good when they rule the world.
That is our funda- mental principle. osmetics, how to resonate with
their cul- tural group. It starts at home. 2. Free Your Mind:
Marketers can be incredibly perceptive about trends but tend to
ste- reotype multicultural markets. Multicultural markets are nu-
anced, but not alien. 3. Take It to the Streets: Im not a big fan
of the expert opinion. Nothing really beats hearing it specic
cultural groups, but if advertising may be potentially offensive.
Showing a collarbone to advertise luminous skin may be a norm in
one country, but may be con- sidered lascivious in another. 5. Be a
Flagrant Button Pusher: Were a big fan of what some marketers call
the wink. This is when a general market ad- vertisement or
marketing cam- paign has a subversive message of alliance to a
multicultural group with a sly social cue that is completely devoid
of stereo- type. Again, this is where sophis- tication comes in.
Theres usually an insider refer- ence that someone who is not part
of that group would miss, thus hitting a sweet spot of recognition.
Multicultural consum- ers often dont want to be singled out, just
included. tones of color spend their dis- posable dollars on
beauty, and split the variables every which way to Sunday but in
the end the ndings were unequivocal. Well, what if she lives in
Nashville versus New York? She wants to the you clearly have to be
in bed with the multicultural consumer. It would be an exercise in
foolish- ness not to invite this customer out to play. But the
playground mentality has been industry standard for longer than it
needs to be, where someone new rolls he atten- {Continued from page
one} Itwouldbeanexercise infoolishnessnotto ethemulticultural
VIEWPOINT The Multicultural Consumer: DontJustDateHer,MarryHer
TANKTHINK BY IMAN Iman founded Iman Cosmetics, a groundbreaking
beauty collection designed for women with skin of color, in 1994.
Discovered in Nairobi in 1973 by Peter Beard, Iman became one of
fashions most iconic models throughout the Seventies and Eighties.
Today her products are sold throughout the world. 10 WWD FRIDAY,
FEBRUARY 8, 2013 beauty beauty brand that lled the gap for black
women because it was deeply personal for me. It was more than
foundations and powders; it was ap- pealing to a deep psychologi-
cal need that I think all black women needed at that time: to be
told that they were beauti- ful, invited to sit at the cool table
and courted in high style. However, as we gathered more information
about the game we were in, we started to shift into the more
holistic vision that we are known for now throughout our
positioning and ad- vertising: Women of all skin tones want to look
good when they rule the world. That is our funda- mental principle.
At Iman Cosmetics, we stick to a basic busi- ness strategy that
starts with marketing and ac- tually extends to a cor- porate
positioning. 1. Whats Your MI (Multicultural Intelligence)?: This
is the spring- board for any marketing group that wishes to take a
sophisti- cated approach to advertising and builds sustainable
brand loyalty. How diverse is the group sitting at the boardroom
table? Chances are, if there is how to resonate with their cul-
tural group. It starts at home. 2. Free Your Mind: Marketers can be
incredibly perceptive about trends but tend to ste- reotype
multicultural markets. Multicultural markets are nu- anced, but not
alien. 3. Take It to the Streets: Im not a big fan of the expert
opinion. Nothing really beats hearing it from the horses mouth,
because direct communication with the communities of interest lends
authenticity to insights. Hire people from local communities as
focus-group moderators. 4. Know the Language: Any mar- keting group
has to be on board with cultural mores. If youre specic cultural
groups, but if advertising may be potentially offensive. Showing a
collarbone to advertise luminous skin may be a norm in one country,
but may be con- sidered lascivious in another. 5. Be a Flagrant
Button Pusher: Were a big fan of what some marketers call the wink.
This is when a general market ad- vertisement or marketing cam-
paign has a subversive message of alliance to a multicultural group
with a sly social cue that is completely devoid of stereo- type.
Again, this is where sophis- tication comes in. Theres usually an
insider refer- ence that someone who is not part of that group
would miss, thus hitting a sweet spot of recognition. Multicultural
consum- ers often dont want to be singled out, just included. 6.
Dont Just Date Her, Marry Her: If you target a multi- cultural
group one year, you cant simply drop that group because theres a
new trend and focus. If groups are not courted on a continuous
basis, they just go nd a brand that will treat them the way they
deserve to be treated, and this negligence translates to a hit on
your ROI (return on investment). Period. tones of color spend the
posable dollars on beaut split the variables every way to Sunday
but in the e ndings were unequivoca what if she lives in Nas versus
New York? She w look good when she rul world. Or how about 18 to
sus 35 to 50? She wants t good when she rules the Or a median
income of $ versus one over $100,000 wants to look good whe rules
the world. We can change the aesthetics; w to change our thinking.
Everyone is hip to th {Continued from page one} Itwouldbeanexercise
infoolishnessnotto invitethemulticultural customerouttoplay.
VIEWPOINT The Multicultural Consumer: DontJustDateHer,MarryHer
TANKTHINK BY IMAN Iman founded Iman Cosm designed for women with
Nairobi in 1973 by Peter B iconic models throughou products are
sold throug The Coach Love bottle (new fragrance for Valentines
Day)
5. Monday,February11,2013 Lead Article Chinas Changing Labor by
Kathleen E. McLaughlin Government seek to raise minimum wage by
2015. This will encourage more rural workers to ll jobs in the
cities Foxconn, the countrys largest private employer, is allowing
employees to vote their union representatives. This movement could
change the countrys the manufacturing industry and labor force
Textiles and apparel industries feel pressure to follow suit,
especially if the outcome is favorable to workers Sections
Accessories Innerwear/legwear Beauty Marc Jacobs Moves Show Fashion
Scoops Multicultural Consumer New York Collections Fall 2013 Nicole
Miller 8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013 Monique Lhuillier: Since her
spring presentation five months ago, Tommy Hilger: The historic
Park Avenue Armory was zip-up jackets and a Prince of Wales print
on topcoats. band jackets to riffs on tuxedo dressing, which the
designer Outsiders womens collection. Retro staples like A-line
Billy ReidTommy HilgerMonique Lhuillier Billy Reid FALL NEW YORK
2013 COLLECTIONS LONDONFASHIONWEEKLONDONFASHIONWEEK
MACCOSMETICS.TUMBLR.COM NEWYORKFASHIONWEEK WWD.COM FIRE SAFETY
REFORMS: A handful ofpeople from the International LaborRights
Forum distributed iers Sundayafternoon in front of Lincoln
Centerprior to Trina Turks fashion show,protesting Gaps re safety
program.In the wake of recent factory res inBangladesh and Pakistan
that havekilled hundreds of apparel workers,ILRF is calling for
apparel companies toshare their knowledge about workplacehazards
openly and pay sufcient pricesto factories for necessary
buildingrepairs. Were asking Trina Turk todo the right thing, said
Liana Foxvog,director of organizing for the ILRF. Sheexplained that
Turk did a line last yearfor Banana Republic and we believeshe has
the ear of the Gap. According to ILRF, Gaps monitorsrepeatedly gave
a clean bill of healthto Thats It Sportswear, the Bangladeshfactory
that burned in December 2010,killing 29 workers, many leaping
totheir deaths from the upper oors of thebuilding because locked
stairway doorsprevented their escape. ILRF is calling on Gap to
adopt are safety program which would helpsave workers lives in
Bangladesh. Theorganization planned to go to the Gapstore Sunday to
deliver a message to thestore mana Fendi chairman and chief
executiveofcer Pietro Beccari called the projectan example of the
Roman rms three-dimensional approach to makingbeautiful things.
Carla Fendi was to join DAMACexecutives at a press conference
todayat the Dubai International FinancialCenter to unveil the
project. DAMAC hascompleted 37 buildings to date, spanningalmost
8,000 residential units, with 65other buildings in development
acrossthe Middle East and North Africa. MILES SOCHA TAKE FIVE: For
the fth part of Miu MiusTales short series, the Italian brandtapped
award-winning director AvaDuVernay to shoot The Door, whichfeatures
Gabrielle Union, Alfre Woodard,Emayatzy Corinealdi, Adepero Oduye
andsinger-songwriter Goapele.The lm a little over nine minutesin
length focuses on an actual door onthe modernist house of a main
character(Union) who just went through a break-up. Friends come
through that door toconsole her and, with their support,
sheeventually overcomes her sadness andis able to move on. The door
in the lm when asked if she preferred the frontrow. I was so
blessed and grateful. It wasa wonderful, meaningful moment for
melast season to walk for Wang. I had neverwalked for him so it
meant a lot. The fact[was] that he was supporting me
throughsomething that was [a] really trying time.Now I want to
support him because hesso wonderful and hes got such
incrediblethings happening.It showed a strengththat I needed.
Across the runway from Ross in thesmoky space, other front-row
attendeesincluded Zo Kravitz, Alison Mosshart andA$AP Rocky, who
mugged for the cameraswith Terry Richardson MATTHEW LYNCH BACK TO
BLACK: London is veryunusualI think you can do knee-length,
midlength or long, said WilliamBanks-Blaney, founder of William
Vintage,of the local red-carpet etiquette aheadof the BAFTAs.
Theres a greater senseof individuality. I think you can be abit
different and be yourself a little bitmore. Banks-Blaney, whose
Londonstore specializes in vintage couture, andGillian Anderson
cohosted a pre-BAFTAdinner on Friday night in collaborationwith
Adler Jewellers. The BAFTAs Britains answer to the Academy Awards
took place on Sunday night. Guestsincluded Laura Carmichael, Lily
Cooper, LaraBohinc, Patrick Grant and Johanna Johnston.Vintage
decadence was th popped around her. It was the rstfashion week
appearance for Clarke,who is in rehearsals for Breakfast atTiffanys
on Broadway and soundedsmitten with New York, blizzard and all.New
York as a city is just phenomenaland Ive fallen head over heels in
lovewith it, she said. I braved the heels.Elsewhere in the front
row, theDanish singer Oh Land took some timeto dispel a Nordic
winter weatherstereotype. Everybody suspects thatwhen youre from
Denmark you will belike all good. But yeah its way too coldfor me,
she laughed. I want to go to thesouth. Theres not a lot of viking
in me. 19 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 11, 2013 FASHIONSCOOPS Emilia Clarke
PHOTOBYSTEVEEICHNER colorful and intriguing clothes. More
controlled in volume compared to her spring show, the suits and
loose top-and- pants combos looked great in head-to-toe prints.
Relaxed candy-colored angora sweaters were scrumptious and a lovely
mother-of-pearl pattern was worked in various tones on a coat,
dress and matching blouse and skirt. Tibi: Sportswear, Nineties
utilitarian, synthetic versus natural fabrics. Those were just a
few of the descriptors designer Amy Smilovic called out backstage
when describing her latest collection. Sportswear is what Tibi does
best. Forget matchy-matchy these were great pieces that a girl can
put together in any number of ways, from dresses worn over pants to
a knit dickie with a T-shirt. Working in a predominantly
black-and-white palette with pops of brights, Smilovics outerwear
looked particularly good in sculpted shapes, some with removable
quilted vests and shearling linings for multiseasonal wear. The
designer also continued her recent love affair with Neoprene, using
it for hoodies and boxy T-shirts that paired well with slouchy
pants and oversize leather shorts. Smilovics key print was
comprised of abstract dots but most of the pattern was created with
contrasting patches of color or materials like leather and ponyskin
that gave a graphic, textured look. DKNY: Having just launched a
collaboration with Opening Ceremony featuring reissues of early
Nineties DKNY hits, Donna Karan returned to that period for fall,
but this time through a hip-hop lens. Terric oversize parkas and
sweatshirts were featured, as well as fun animal prints that
brought to mind the work of Stephen Sprouse. Karan also added large
rounded shoul- ders to her silhouettes, particularly on structured
mini- dresses and tops that combined multiple fab- rics including
Neoprene. But the few evening looks here long, owing dress- es over
skinny pants felt out of synch with the rest of her strong sports-
skirt crocheted in an ethnic pattern. Rose was playing on a
Brothers Grimm fairy-tale inspiration but there wasnt a Rapunzel in
sight. Some dresses, like the swirling Robert Geller: The dark
romanticism of Twenties Berlin permeated Robert Gellers collection,
whose plays on elongated proportions and artful layering continued
to mature this season. The designer referenced German overall
styling looked cleaner and more contemporary. Geller has created a
rmly identiable look that is brooding, modern and emblematic of a
cool constituency in mens wear. Tracy Reese: Tracy Reese looked
black, anima She paired s leather moto fun one done con dresses all
black wer comfort but to move from FALL NEW YORK 2013 COLLECTIONS
Robert Geller
6. Tuesday,February12,2013 Lead Article Milans Export Drive by
Luisa Zargani Exports are saving the Italian more and more. Sales
outside of Italy is expected to reach a new high in 2013 Italian
brands are depending on international markets to bring revenue in.
The countries that are bringing most revenue are: Brazil, Russia,
India, and China Even with the economic crisis and upcoming
elections in Europe. Many are still positive about their sales this
upcoming year. Versace group CEO Gian Giacomo Ferraris is condent
for a double-digit growth in 2013 Sections Textile Ready to Wear
Pop-Up Strategy Milan Preview Beauty Beat Milestone EVA MENDES TO
DO LINE FOR NEW YORK & CO. PAGE 4 NEW YORK WOMAN WWDTUESDAY,
FEBRUARY 12, 2013 WOMENS WEAR DAILY $3.00 POP-UP STRATEGY Dior In
Major Push Of Raf Simons Line By MILES SOCHA PARIS Raf Simons rst
collection for Dior is arriv- ing at retail this month, accompanied
by fanfare on a global scale. Dior is orchestrating a series of
pop-up shops with key wholesale partners in the coming weeks,
trans- planting the decor and atmosphere of Simons ready- to-wear
show in Paris last September to retailers in- cluding Joyce in Hong
Kong, 10 Corso Como in Milan, Maxeld in Los Angeles, Isetan in
Tokyo, My Boon in Seoul and I.T. in Beijing. This is a new New
Look, declared Dior chief ex- ecutive Sidney Toledano, referring to
the extravagant, WWD MILESTONES DENNIS BASSO AT 30. SECTION II
WWD.COM WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 20138 By ALESSANDRA TURRA MILAN
Europes economic uncertain- ty didnt stop the creativity of the
high- end Italian textile rms that presented innovative products at
the 16th edition of Milano Unica, the three-day textile trade show
that closed here on Friday. In 2012, the Italian textile industry
posted a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to 8 billion euros, or $10.4
billion at aver- age exchange rates, compared with 2011. According
to data provided by Italian fash- ion and textile consortium SMI
Sistema Moda Italia, textile products dropped 3 Branding,
innovation and internation- alization were the key ingredients
high- lighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group chief executive ofcer
Gildo Zegna to succeed in the current market. The com- pany, which
closed 2012 reporting a 12 percent increase in revenues up to 1.25
billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast sin- gle-digit growth in
2013. The year will be difcult, especially in the rst part, also
due to the strong euro, Zegna said. Zegna pointed to the role of
silk as one of the reasons for the brands success in international
markets. He said, Starting to combine silk with our traditional -
Silk, an inno- vative denimlike silk fabric. The world of denim is
extremely im- portant and we like the idea of combining it with
something classic and traditional like silk, Bocchese said. This
reflects our current strategy focused on re- interpreting silk
fabrics, our core products, in an Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni
also listed the strong euro and its impact on export pricing, in
addition to dif- culties in obtaining bank credit, as among the
problems that could affect the market in the coming months. At the
fair, Botto Fila, which generates 70 percent of its rev- enues
outside Italy, presented a collection focused on comfortable
fabrics, mixing superne wool with stretch materials. Patterns
ranged from micro-houndstooth, soft tartans and thin pin- stripes
to crease-resis- tant wool fabric. Technology took center stage at
Marzotto as well, which launched Scudo, a line that features
waterproof and breathable fab- rics made of cot- ton, a cotton-and-
8 Alcantara M Innovation Key at Milano Unica textiles WWD.COM WWD
TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2013 By ALESSANDRA TURRA N Europes economic
uncertain- dnt stop the creativity of the high- talian textile rms
that presented ative products at the 16th edition of o Unica, the
three-day textile trade that closed here on Friday. 2012, the
Italian textile industry d a 5.1 percent drop in revenues to ion
euros, or $10.4 billion at aver- xchange rates, compared with 2011.
ding to data provided by Italian fash- nd textile consortium SMI
Sistema Italia, textile products dropped 3 nt in 2012, even with
positive results pan, Russia, the U.S. and China. lping to give a
positive feeling to ex- ors, Sir Paul Smith, a regular at the which
this season saw the number of rs increase 5.5 percent compared
February 2012, kicked off the show an insightful speech during the
inau- Branding, innovation and internation- alization were the key
ingredients high- lighted by Ermenegildo Zegna Group chief
executive ofcer Gildo Zegna to succeed in the current market. The
com- pany, which closed 2012 reporting a 12 percent increase in
revenues up to 1.25 billion euros, or $1.6 billion, forecast sin-
gle-digit growth in 2013. The year will be difcult, especially in
the rst part, also due to the strong euro, Zegna said. Zegna
pointed to the role of silk as one of the reasons for the brands
success in international markets. He said, Starting to combine silk
with our traditional - bers has been a very smart strategy that
enabled us to enrich summer collections with products featuring the
same luxury standards of the winter season. At Milano Unica, the
Biella-based com- pany presented a new fabric mixing mohair with
silk. This is also available with Cool Effects technology that
reduces the absorp- Silk, an inno- vative denimlike silk fabric.
The world of denim is extremely im- portant and we like the idea of
combining it with something classic and traditional like silk,
Bocchese said. This reflects our current strategy focused on re-
interpreting silk fabrics, our core products, in an unconventional
and cre- ative way. Denim also inspired Loro Pianas Lin de Nmes, a
linen fabric with a denim effect designed for mens and womens
casual pants and outerwear. In addition, the company in- troduced
mens lightweight, crease-resis- Botto Fila ceo Alberto Bertoni also
listed the strong euro and its impact on export pricing, in
addition to dif- culties in obtaining bank credit, as among the
problems that could affect the market in the coming months. At the
fair, Botto Fila, which generates 70 percent of its rev- enues
outside Italy, presented a collection focused on comfortable
fabrics, mixing superne wool with stretch materials. Patterns
ranged from micro-houndstooth, soft tartans and thin pin- stripes
to crease-resis- tant wool fabric. Technology took center stage at
Marzotto as well, which launched Scudo, a line that features
waterproof and breathable fab- rics made of cot- ton, a cotton-and-
silk blend, stretch poplin and wool paired with an exclu- sive
high-tech Japanese membrane. Marzotto-owned velvet- maker Redaelli
Velluti launched light- weight linen corduroy, available in a nat-
Alcantara M M Bocchese nnovation Key at Milano Unica extiles
WWD.COM WWDTUESDAY,FEBRUARY12,2013 8 ByALESSANDRATURRA
MILANEuropeseconomicuncertain- tydidntstopthecreativityofthehigh-
endItaliantextilermsthatpresented
innovativeproductsatthe16theditionof
MilanoUnica,thethree-daytextiletrade showthatclosedhereonFriday.
In2012,theItaliantextileindustry posteda5.1percentdropinrevenuesto
8billioneuros,or$10.4billionataver-
ageexchangerates,comparedwith2011.
AccordingtodataprovidedbyItalianfash-
ionandtextileconsortiumSMISistema
ModaItalia,textileproductsdropped3
percentin2012,evenwithpositiveresults
inJapan,Russia,theU.S.andChina. Helpingtogiveapositivefeelingtoex-
hibitors,SirPaulSmith,aregularatthe
fair,whichthisseasonsawthenumberof
visitorsincrease5.5percentcompared
withFebruary2012,kickedofftheshow
withaninsightfulspeechduringtheinau-
guralpressconferenceonWednesday. Smithhighlightedtheimportancefor
fashiondesigners,whomheviewsastoo shelteredintheirivorytowers,toat-
tendtradeshowsinordertobeinspired andmeetpeople.Tomeetthechallenges
ofthemarket,theBritishdesignersug-
gestedentrepreneursshouldpushtheir
creativityandthinklaterallytocreate brandsfocusedonindividualityand
thathaveaclearpointofviewanda balancebetweenmorecommercialand
fashionableproducts. Branding,innovationandinternation-
alizationwerethekeyingredientshigh- lightedbyErmenegildoZegnaGroup
chiefexecutiveofcerGildoZegnato succeedinthecurrentmarket.Thecom-
pany,whichclosed2012reportinga12 percentincreaseinrevenuesupto1.25
billioneuros,or$1.6billion,forecastsin- gle-digitgrowthin2013.
Theyearwillbedifcult,especially intherstpart,alsoduetothestrong
euro,Zegnasaid. Zegnapointedtotheroleofsilkasone
ofthereasonsforthebrandssuccessin
internationalmarkets.Hesaid,Starting
tocombinesilkwithourtraditional- bershasbeenaverysmartstrategythat
enabledustoenrichsummercollections
withproductsfeaturingthesameluxury standardsofthewinterseason.
AtMilanoUnica,theBiella-basedcom-
panypresentedanewfabricmixingmohair
withsilk.ThisisalsoavailablewithCool
Effectstechnologythatreducestheabsorp-
tionofsunlight,allowingmentoweardark- coloredsuitsduringthesummer.
Manyoftheexhibitorsatthetrade showconrmedthatsilkisontheup-
swing.Theincreaseddemandforthe naturalberisprobablythereasonfor
theinstabilityofitsprice,whichhassig-
nicantlyriseninthelastfewmonths. Duetosilkshighcost,wehadto
raiseourpricesby5to10percent,said Bocchese1908ceoMicheleBocchese.
InkeepingwiththecompanysDNA, theItalianrmlaunchedDenimLoves
Silk,aninno- vativedenimlike silkfabric.Theworld
ofdenimisextremelyim- portantandwelikethe ideaofcombiningitwith
somethingclassicand traditionallikesilk, Bocchesesaid.This
reflectsourcurrent strategyfocusedonre- interpretingsilkfabrics,
ourcoreproducts,inan unconventionalandcre- ativeway.
DenimalsoinspiredLoro PianasLindeNmes,alinen
fabricwithadenimeffectdesigned formensandwomenscasualpantsand
outerwear.Inaddition,thecompanyin-
troducedmenslightweight,crease-resis-
tantwoolfabricAccademia,alongwith AquaWool,amachine-washableknit
woolfabricavailableinpiquorjersey. Ourstrategyisdenitelynotdrivenby
fear,insteadwearepushingonresearch
creatingnewinnovativeproducts,said
ceoPierLuigiLoroPiana,whoforecast thatthecompany,whichsawitstextile
unitclose2012witha5percentincrease, willkeepgrowingin2013.Imcondent
thatboththeU.S.andChinawillperform
prettywellthisyear,despitetherising valueoftheeuro.
BottoFilaceoAlbertoBertonialso listedthestrongeuroanditsimpact
onexportpricing,inadditiontodif- cultiesinobtainingbankcredit,as
amongtheproblemsthatcouldaffect themarketinthecomingmonths.
Atthefair,BottoFila,which generates70percentofitsrev-
enuesoutsideItaly,presenteda collectionfocusedoncomfortable
fabrics,mixingsupernewoolwith stretchmaterials.Patternsranged
frommicro-houndstooth, softtartansandthinpin-
stripestocrease-resis- tantwoolfabric. Technologytook centerstageat
Marzottoaswell, whichlaunched Scudo,aline thatfeatures
waterproofand breathablefab- ricsmadeofcot- ton,acotton-and-
silkblend,stretch poplinandwool pairedwithanexclu-
sivehigh-techJapanese membrane. Marzotto-ownedvelvet-
makerRedaelliVellutilaunchedlight-
weightlinencorduroy,availableinanat-
uralcolorpalette.Silk-makerandprint
specialistRattiusednewtechniquesto
obtainsophisticatedandunusualpat- terns,showingexploded-likedotsand
Bretonstripes. Shirt-fabric-makerTestaalsoplayed
withpatterns,includingmoreelegant stripesandchiccasualchecksprinted
oncottonandcotton-and-linen-blend fabrics.Thecompanyalsoembracedone
oftheseasonsbiggesttrendsdenim intheformoftwo-tonehigh-end
clothsforjeans. 8 Alcantara M M Bocchese InnovationKeyatMilanoUnica
textiles ByARTHURFRIEDMAN NATIONALCOTTONCOUNCILecono-
miststolddelegatesatthegroupsannu- almeetinginMemphisonSaturdaythat
theoutlookforcottonthisyearwillbe inuencedbyChinaspolicydecisions
andcontinuedcompetitionfromman- madebers.
GaryAdams,NCCsvicepresidentof economicsandpolicyanalysis,saidrecent
dataonbermarketsharedemonstrates
themanychallengesfromsyntheticbers. Measuredonthebasisofpounds
ofcottonber,the2012U.S.retailcot-
tonmarket[about17millionbales]fell tothelowestlevelsince1996,amida
fourthconsecutiveyearofdeclining marketshare,Adamssaid.
Continuedgrowthinmilluseisbeing supportedbytherelativelystableprice
patternofrecentmonths,morecompeti-
tivepriceswhencomparedwithpolyes-
ter,andmorefavorablespreadsbetween yarnvaluesandberprices,henoted.
Chinascurrentpolicyisanotherfac- torlendingsupporttomilluseinother
countries.Bypurchasingitsdomes- ticproductionatprices40to50cents
aboveworldprices,Chinaisensuring thatitsinternalpricesarewellabove
worldpricesandcausingitscottonspin-
ningtobeuncompetitive,Adamsnoted. FabricmanufacturersinChinaarein-
creasinglylookingtolltheiryarnde- mandwithimportedproduct.
Chinaspolicy,whilesupportingpric- esreceivedbyfarmers,actsasataxon
textilemillsandhasfurtheredtheshift CottonOutlookCloudedbyChina
Runbypeople notformulas. While not putting the spotlight on
politics, it cant be overlooked, said Massimo Ferretti, executive
chairman of Aeffe SpA, which con- trols the Alberta Ferretti,
Moschino and Pollini brands and produces and distributes
collections for Cacharel and Cdric Charlier. We can survive with
bad political management, but with a correct one, we can do
better.Ferretti has been increasingly internationaliz- ing and
rejuvenating the group, which posted rev- enues of 254 million
euros, or $325.1 million at av- erage exchange, last year, with a
14 percent jump in the last quarter of 2012. The year did not start
well but ended on a positive note, with s make us hope for the
resDurin with the previous year. Asia-Pacic continued to be the
Florence-based groups core market, but chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo
said all geograph- ic areas responded well to the brand.
Historically, in moments of crisis, we grow more, he said, citing
the timeless nature of the product as one of the drivers. The
company, which successfully went public two years ago, plans to
further expand around the world in 2013.There are new and important
potential a for business, he said.Asked aboutF WWD TUESDAY,
FEBRUARY 12, 2013 20 MILAN PREVIEW Exports a BoonFor Italy SARA BA
years ol is defini fashion i The yo ist Giovaworked fedgy
bagMoltedo benamesake l I was nstart my ownpushed me athe rst
piecon fringe, sdesigner, whobag collection the hyper-femininethe
Fifties and SixtieTo highlight thglamorous yet ironeach season
Battafor A loo By A O Versaces store inManhattans SoHo. FOR
MILANSCENE, SEE WWD.com/eye. {Continued from page one}
7. Wednesday,February13,2013 Lead Article Kors Looking to Grow
With Retail, E-Commerce by Vicki M. Young In addition to their
ongoing conversion of department store doors to shops-in-shop. Kors
plan bring in North American e-commerce business business in
February 2014 so it can create an omnichannel experience for
customers, whether in-store or online Kors is developing new
products to add to their line. Over the holiday season, the drivers
of sales was small leather goods and handbags. Also, showing
performance was the companys new jewelry business. Which could
eventually be one of the biggest revenue generator for the brand
nationally and internationally The company said it entered into a
joint venture agree- ment with Exclusive Brands International to
create MK Panama Holdings, which will enable Kors to expand its re-
tail and wholesale presence in Central and South America, as well
as the Caribbean Sections Sports Denim Las Vegas Preview Club Night
The Runway Report WWD.COM WWD WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 13, 2013 SECTION
II WWDLASVEGASPREVIEW 12 Labels on the rise at Emerging Designer
Showcase. Yigal Azroul ALEXANDER WANG Alexander Wang embraced the
luxuriant tex- tures and cozy feel of fuzzy fabrics, from rich
knits to mohair to fur, to express his message in his Fall 2013
collection. Coupled with the softening of his trademark angular
quality, the feel was modern and indulgent. A downtown edge came in
the form of ribbed knit caps and oversized fur mittens. Grey
overwhelmingly drove the line-up, though some touches of rust, and
white and black were peppered into the mix. He also favored lowered
waistlines and crisscross details for a chic sophistication. When
it came to fur, pony took a front-and-center spot for its
unparalleled reective properties, whereas kidskin fur and lamb
helped Mr. Wang develop and dene his shapes. HERV LGER BY MAX AZRIA
The classic Herv Lger bandage dress is, of course, on the menu for
Fall 2013but in his show notes, Max Azria states that he draws
inspiration from the works of several modern French artists.
Unexpected oral and fauna references invoke the energy of the
whimsical surrealist work he admires. This collection was darker
and more discreet in mood from last year, and it delivered an
intricate JASON WU Thanks to that stunning inaugural gown, 2013
looks to be another great year for Jason Wu. His Fall 2013
collection is a triumphal ode to femininity. Mr. Wu is becoming
more comfortable with himself and isnt afraid to experiment. It
seems he could be revealing a new sexiness that will somewhat
redene his brand image. Glamorous, yet easy to wear, this
collection energized and expanded Wus established aesthetic with
striking, fun, and irty looks. This time around Wu took chic
American sports- wear styles and integrated them with a few updated
street-chic pieces for a new vision of sophistication. Combining a
black exotic skin jacket with a soft white skirt, or a fur-trimmed
leather vest with a crisp buttoned-up white shirt may not raise an
eyebrow. Yet when the juxtaposition transcends from day to evening,
the looks become fresh and fun. JEN KAO Jen Kaos show felt a bit
like Paris circa 1982. The vibe was young, and the delivery was
impactful. Aside from great leatherwork, Ms. Kao introduced a brick
pattern patchwork with geometric offshoots in black and indigo
blues. She interspersed the pattern throughout, pairing it with
leather, vinyl, denim, SON JUNG WAN Son Jung Wans Fall 2013
collection was an interesting medley that comfortably bridged
Korean propriety with Western sartorial largesse. The collectiona
presentation of unorthodox bipolarity inuenced by the Russian
modernist art movement and the opulence of great Russian
dwellingsread surpris- ingly modern. Blunt cuts and proportions
were tapered with softer colors and luxe materials. Where harsher
textiles dominated a look, more intricate treatments fostered
sophistication. Her furs were as varied as her collection. She used
fox, mink, Rex rabbit and lippi cat with equal condence, creating
full or partial sleeves, epaulettes, wrapped collars and unisex
ringed scarves. Her oversized gold sequin embroidered fox coat
stole the show. YIGAL AZROUL Yigal Azroul favors looks that enhance
the female silhouette. He uses small knits to swath torsos, belts
and peplums to zone in on the midsection, stovepipe or PJ style
trousers to elongate legs. Mr. Azroul also likes to wrap his girls
in chunky sweaters and coats. With his Fall 2013 collection, he
opted for an intricate, tailored t, even adding a bustier or two to
ADVERTISEMENT Snow may have overtaken the Eastern Seaboard, but it
didnt dampen New York Fashion Week at all. As they say, the show
must go-on. Designers and show-goers marched on with unaltered
enthusiasm as innovation and fresh, new creative interpretations
expanded the fashion vocabulary. THE RUNWAY REPORT Herv Lger by Max
Azria Son Jung Wan Jen Kao NEW YORK // FEBRUARY 13, 2013 Alexander
Wang Jason Wu ADVERTISEMENT THE R RSon Jung Wan NEW Alexander Wang
Jason Wu
8. Thursday,February14,2013 Lead Article London Wants More Than
a Fashion Moment by Samantha Conti Want to start up British luxury
brands, no longer want to be a stopover for Milan, Paris, and New
York London wants to reach for global consumers and push for
British designers. Main goal is to put British designers on the
map. According to the British Fashion Council, the number of major
buyers from major U.S. stores will attend. The list includes Neiman
Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman and
Bloomingdales Prime Minister David Cameron wants to reindustrialize
the fashion industry in Britain. He wants to see more high end
goods manufactured in Britain Sections Menswear Man of the Week
Pushing for Performance Fashion Scoops WWD Digital Forum WWD.COM 4
WWD THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2013 She stressed that fashion is for
life not just four weeks a year. The British fashion industry
operates 365 days a year across the world, and we intend to
capitalize on its creativity, she said. We are at a crucial tipping
point thanks to a perfect storm of talent working both here and
abroad. This talent has con- sistently been the calling card of
British designers, and with the unprecedented reach to a global
consumer thanks to the Internet this is driving de- mand, and
therefore sales, glob- ally for both British designer brands and
for the global labels of which they are at the helm. Shes been in
the job only since Jan. 1, but Massenet has already helped to
attract private sector experts from the digi- tal, tech, investment
and retail worlds who are ready to con- tribute their time and
talent to the BFC. In the coming weeks, the BFC will reveal that a
big- name player from the digital world will begin a collaboration
with them boosting British fashions online presence. This season,
according to the BFC, the number of major buy- ers in attendance
will be up 18 percent year-on-year, while a large number of U.S.
stores will attend. The list includes Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth
Avenue, Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdales.
Earlier this year, for the first time, Prime Minister David Cameron
threw his weight behind the industry, pumping up industry gures
dur- ing a speech at Number 10 Downing Street. The speech and
cocktail kicked off the January edition of London Collections: Men,
the new stand-alone fashion showcase for mens wear launched by the
BFC last year. Fashion is not just some sort of accessory, youre
not an add-on, he told industry gures including Ford, Tommy Hilger,
Richard James and Jonathan Saunders. The ultraenthusiastic Cameron
also told his audience that he wants to see more high-end goods
manufactured in Britain as part an overall strategy to
reindustrialize the country. You have my 100 per- cent support, so
just go for it! Cameron was taking a cue from his wife, Samantha
Cameron, who has been a BFC ambassador since 2010, and who has been
hosting her own cocktail parties at Number 10, together with the
BFC. The next one will take place Friday night, with designers,
buy- ers and press in attendance. Samantha Cameron knows the
fashion crowd well since she re- mains creative consultant to the
British luxury brand Smythson in addition to her duties as Britains
First Lady. True, London fashion has witnessed golden moments be-
fore, most recently during the mid-Nineties when designers such as
Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Antonio Berardi, Stella
McCartney, Julien Macdonald and Matthew Williamson rose to
prominence. But those designers eventually quit London and decamped
to Paris, Milan or New York where the money, buyers and in-
ternational press were. London gradually faded again into its
perennial role: an interesting stopover on the calendar if there
was time to see the latest crop of designers trained by the citys
famed fashion schools, and to visit the innovative retail con-
cepts that seemed to spring up all over the city like mushrooms.
This time around, designers are increasingly staying put in a town
that is attracting more money, international attention and more
major names than ever before thanks in large part to the groundwork
laid down by the BFC over the past few years. Ford has said his
decision to show both his mens and womens collections in London was
a nat- ural one. Ive had a house here since 1997, my design studio
is here and I love London. In many ways its my home. A lot of [my
decision] was personal, he said. In addition, by the end of this
year, Ford will have 93 stand- alone stores and shops-in-shop,
including an 8,000-square-foot unit on Sloane Street due to open in
the second half. So we need to be doing a proper womens wear show.
Were committed to London for the near term, and as long as we can
attract the press we need, well stay here. Ultimately, that will be
the test, he said. Scott, who in past seasons has shown and
presented in New York and Paris, said she always goes to the beat
of her own drummer when it comes to picking a city. I really wanted
to show in London this time. Its where I create, the team is here,
and it feels like the right time, espe- cially as we build and
expand the business in Europe. The city itself is full of
excitement and is far more important internation- ally than people
give it credit for, she said, adding that she does her print and
fabric devel- opment, embroidery work and tailoring in the U.K.
Even London Fashion Week veterans are getting renewed at- tention
of late, especially on the nancial front. Over the past six months
and well before Kanes deal with PPR two London Fashion Week xtures
secured funding for their labels with an eye to further
international expansion. In September Amanda Wakeley, the brand
known for its bridal collections, long silk dress- es, coats and
suits favored by the Duchess of Cambridge, secured significant
financial invest- ment from private equity firm AGC Equity
Partners, following the restructuring of the business. The funds
are being used to develop the company as a luxu- ry lifestyle
brand. Luxury goods management veteran Sagra Maceira de Rosen is
working with Wakeley, who launched the label in 1990, and who
serves as creative director. In August, Mayhoola for Investments
took a minority stake in Anya Hindmarch in a deal valuing the
business at 70 million pounds, or $110 million. Mayhoola, a vehicle
backed by a private investor group from the Qatari monarchy, is the
same company that acquired Valentino Fashion Group in July. Over
the next four years Hindmarch, who founded the company 25 years
ago, plans to upgrade the business, ne-tune the brand positioning
and boost the geographical reach together with ceo James McArthur.
4 LONDON PREVIEW London Set for the Spotlight By DAVID MOIN LINDA
HEASLEY WILL join Lane Bryant on Monday as president and chief
executive officer, leaving behind Limited Stores, where she held
the same titles for the past six years. Heasleys challenge will be
to further a strategy already set in motion by Lane Bryants new
owner to modernize and turn around the performance of the $1
billion, 800-unit large-size specialty chain. Lane Bryant is a bit
of a challenged business, acknowledged David Jaffe, president and
ceo of the Ascena Retail Group Inc., which last spring acquired the
retailer through its $890 million deal for Charming Shoppes Inc.
While Ascenas total company sales, Internet included, were up 1
percent on a com- parable basis in the last quarter, Lane Bryant
was down 9 percent. We purchased Charming Shoppes to get to Lane
Bryant. Its where we see the potential. Its an iconic, 100-year-old
busi- ness, said Jaffe. There have been some changes of strategy
over the last 10 years at Lane Bryant, hurting the performance and
perception of the business. Now we are trying to build a consistent
look and brand that customers will feel good about. We believe
these customers should be afforded the same fashion choices and the
same opportunities to feel good about the way she dresses, Jaffe
said. Heasleys appointment is expected to be revealed today. The
president and ceo slot at Lane Bryant has been vacant since last
fall when Brian Woolf retired. Jaffe listed a host of
accomplishment by Heasley at The Limited, among them revamping
product lines and introduc- ing new brand positioning and a new
plus-size line, launching e-commerce and a new store design, and
returning The Limited to sustained protability for the rst time in
17 years. Earlier in her career, she held senior-level roles at
Timberland, Limited Brands and CVS. Since the fall, Ascenas
strategy at Lane Bryant has been to update the mer- chandise,
marketing and image. Theres a new logo and fresher colors seen in
the advertising, direct mail and in-store vi- suals. The whole idea
is to bring Lane Bryant up to the current modern aesthet- ic of the
customer, Jaffe said. The strategy also involves shifting much of
the store base from malls to strip centers through store openings
and relo- cations. Ascena, with its other divisions including Dress
Barn and Maurices, is comfortable operating stores in strip centers
and believes they provide the greatest convenience to customers. At
least 50 new stores are seen opening in the next three years, and
in two weeks, a 6,000-square-foot Lane Bryant will open on New
Yorks 34th Street, between Seventh and Eighth Avenues. Jaffe said
the site will be the Lane Bryant agship and prototype for future
stores. Another opportunity is to grow the on- line business, where
15 percent of Lane Bryants sales are currently conducted. Thats a
higher percentage than most retailers, which are generally around
10 percent or less. FOR MORE COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ eye. Heasley to
Lane Bryant as CEO {Continued from page one} Julien Macdonald on
the runway for spring 2012. Tom Ford Alice Temperleys store in
London. Linda Heasley PHOTOBYKYLEERICKSEN
STOREPHOTOBYINDIGO/GETTYIMAGES;FORDBYSTEVEEICHNER;MACDONALDBYGIOVANNIGIANNONI
by DAVID LIPKE NEW YORK Lanvin marked the opening of its new mens
boutique at 807 Madison Avenue on Tuesday evening. The crowd, which
included Theophilus London, Monique Pan, Timo Weiland, Alexis
Stoudemire, Charlotte Sarkozy and Dr. Lisa Airan, explored the
three-level store, located in a historic town- house. Two of the
oors above the store are occupied by Lanvin ofces. The
4,200-square-foot store, which opened to the public last month, is
the first mens bou- tique in the U.S. and is situated a few doors
away from an existing womens boutique at 815 Madison Avenue. The
store design is a new concept conceived by Lanvin designer Alber
Elbaz and archi- tects MR Architecture + Decor. A similar design is
used in newly opened Chicago, Hong Kong and Beirut boutiques. A man
needs to be reassured, to be heard, to get straight to the point,
and to know in an instant that he is in a place of expertise. I
wanted to recreate the spirit of an htel par- ticulier where each
wall, each piece of furniture, each detail alludes to a
savoir-faire and discreet luxury which calls upon the highest
quality materials, said Elbaz, who was not present at the opening
party. The rst oor houses the runway collections of mens designer
Lucas Ossendrijver, with the rear spaces dedicated to sportswear,
accessories and sneakers. The latter category has been a key sales
driver in mens, and this season Lanvin introduced its rst
cross-training sneaker. Tailored clothing, furnishings and
formalwear are housed on the second oor, including a built- in wall
unit for dress shirts and an antique vitrine for bow ties, pinned
like butteries. The third oor offers a VIP salon and made-
to-measure service, in an elegant room anchored by an Art Deco
chandelier and the townhouses original replace. Mens comprises 20
percent of total U.S. sales in Lanvin stores and 15 percent in
wholesale. Lanvin now operates seven stores in the U.S., including
the two New York agships; dual-gender stores in Chicago, Las Vegas
and Beverly Hills, and womens-only stores in Bal Harbour, Fla., and
Malibu, Calif. A new womens store will open in South Coast Plaza in
Costa Mesa, Calif., midyear. JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE: B+Man of THE WEEK
The pop stars infatuation with clothes is reaching new heights with
the release of his single Suit & Tie, in which he calls out Tom
Ford in the video. No shocker, then, that he chose the designer to
dress him for the awards season, including Sunday nights Grammys.
Lanvin Mens Store Opens on Madison China Crackdown Could Hit Mens
by CASEY HALL SHANGHAI With incoming President Xi Jinping
repeatedly flagging a crackdown on corruption and conspicuous
consumption as top priorities for his government, China watchers
are concerned the result may be a hit for a mens mar- ket
traditionally buoyed by the cul- tural practice of gift giving. A
new frugal working style rule on civil servants also ofcial- ly
went into effect last October, banning those paid from the pub- lic
purse from throwing lavish banquets, buying expensive cars and
accepting luxurious gifts. Gift giving and bribery are both
widespread in China, and their pervasiveness has been some- thing
of a boon for the worlds top luxury brands particularly in regards
to the mens sector, which has traditionally been the backbone of
Chinas luxury mar- ket. According to research from brokerage CLSA,
men account for about 55 percent of Chinas luxury goods market,
well above the glob- al average of 40 percent. Studies from Bain
& Co. have indicated that, between 2005 and 2009, the luxury
goods market for men in China grew by 48 percent. By 2011, sales
data at Beijings Sogo Department Store showed that men contributed
30 percent to its total sales, yet their individual expenditure was
two to three times higher than female customers. Many within China
are waiting to see just how serious the agged crackdown will be and
how much impact it will have on gift giving, with experts divided
on the poten- tial for damage to luxury sales. If there is an
effective crack- down on corruption, the gift- giving culture will
be changed in China, said He Jiahong, a pro- fessor at Renmin
University and an expert on corruption. I think the corrupt ofcials
will be more careful, and will nd more invis- ible means for their
wealth. Flora Sapio, a professor of Chinese law at the Chinese
University of Hong Kong, said that while she believes the incom-
ing government is serious about cracking down on corruption, the
affect on gift giving and a cul- ture of conspicuous consumption
among Chinas political and busi- ness elite will be minimal. Today,
gift-giving is a minor form of corruption. The best corrupt deals
are to be made elsewhere: in the real estate sector, on the stock
market, through the manipulation of public-private partnerships,
just to name a few, Sapio said. The display of luxury goods testies
to the lifestyle of Chinas political-economic elite, their in- come
levels and consumption pat- terns. None of these is going to change
signicantly in the near future, unless China experiences a serious
economic downturn, which is highly unlikely, added Sapio. Whatever
the future impact, the idea of a crackdown on cor- ruption has been
popular with the chattering classes, with a number of high prole
outings of corrupt ofcials by Chinese netizens. One standout was
the case of Brother Watch. The nickname was bestowed by the Chinese
Internet on a lowly bureaucrat (with a commensurately lowly sal-
ary) who was photographed wear- ing a number of expensive, pres-
tige brand watches. Prestige watches have been a favored gift for
politically, economi- cally and socially and sometimes all three
powerful men in China and, in recent years, Beijings regu- lar
Party Congresses have become a parade of straight-faced suits
sporting Rolex, Omega, Cartier and Patek Philippe timepieces. The
rst watches were brought to China by French missionaries in the
17th century and were original- ly a gift to emperors and so on. So
the love affair between watches and China and the relationship
between men in China and the culture of gifting have developed in
tandem, David Sadigh, chief executive of- cer of Digital Luxury
Group, told WWD. The group recently released a report called World
Luxury Index China: Watches. Research from Bain showed yearly sales
of luxury watches fell 5 percent on Mainland China in 2012,
compared to growth of as much as 40 percent in 2011, and statistics
from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry show that Swiss
watch exports to Mainland China dropped 27.5 percent year- on-year
in September. Chinas slowing economy is obviously one factor at
play in the slowdown of the formerly red-hot mens prestige watch
market, but Sadigh points to the corruption crackdown as another
cause. The impact of a crackdown on corruption in China is very
impor- tant and we have already seen this, Sadigh said. I think we
have to be very careful and we dont know what will happen, but I
think for watches especially, as far as global brands are
concerned, they should be very careful with how luxury goods and
these kind of things will be per- ceived by this government. There
is an upside for some with- in with high-end mens market in China,
with Microsoft Advertisings Luxury Connoisseurs study nd- ing that
more men are buying luxury goods for themselves than ever. If you
look at the percentage of men buying for personal versus gifts, the
majority is personal, even for men. Of the gift giving, men do a
larger percentage, but over three-quarters of the mens market is
still personal buying, said Adam Anger, the Greater China regions
general manager for advertising and online at Microsoft. Pierre
Xiao Lu, author of Luxury China, Market Opportunities and
Potentials and a luxury business consultant, said this shift away
from gifting and towards personal consumption will be a boon for
the mens personal care seg- ments, which he predicted will grow at
a positive double-digit rate. Though other segments of the luxury
market traditionally driv- en by men will perhaps grow at a slower
rate than in recent years, Lu is quick to emphasize that there will
still be growth. For fashion and accessories, I think they will be
stable, but still growing. The most affected sectors will be
watches and jewelry, other things from wine and spirits, yachts,
cars, private jets will continue to grow at a sta- ble rate, Lu
said. Brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega Veneta have
already invested heavily in the rising personal consump- tion of
Chinese men on the lookout for stylish substance over excess bling
by expanding their product ranges and setting up specialty gents
stores in the Greater China region. I can say that for Ferragamo,
the mens catego- ries [in China] are signicantly important, said
Michele Norsa, ceo of Salvatore Ferragamo. All together worldwide,
we do ap- proximately 40 percent in mens, and in China its 45
percent, so China is a particularly strong market for mens. Norsa
believes his brand will be cushioned by the impact of any softening
in the gift giving market because the belts, ties and wallets often
given as gifts from Salvatore Ferragamo are not so ostentatious. We
are not talking about items that could be subject to moral
judgment. In addition, Norsa was con- dent that, even if there was
an impact on business following a slowdown in gift giving, the
increase in business from sec- ond- and third-tier cities, which
are continuing to embrace lux- ury brands at a rapid pace, will
more than make up for it. I was in China recently and I saw the
mood after the political changes appears to be good, so we are
looking forward to 2013 to being a positive year, Norsa said. The
lead up to Chinese New Year is always a good time and its very
visible in Europe to see significant numbers of Chinese shopping
here. Its im- portant to our industry and we are very committed to
Chinese nationals both within China and internationally as well.
Inside the new Lanvin mens boutique. Ifthereisan effectivecrackdown
oncorruption, thegift-giving culturewillbe changedinChina. HE
JIAHONG, RENMIN UNIVERSITY Mannequin makeup works better in
moderation. Long gone are the curly gold locks of his N Sync days.
However, he might have to give the atiron a break and go for a
little more of a natural look. The perfectly imperfect oversize bow
tie is humorous, but a skinnier model would denitely be cooler. The
silk moire tuxedo jacket shows hes trying a bit too hard, but the
shawl lapel brings it down a notch.After all, it IS the Grammys. A
little too precious perhaps, but were just splitting hairs. Its
pretty fabulous. The jacket ts him well; however, men with very
narrow frames benet from shorter silhouettes, and Timberlake would
look less stuffy with a cropped blazer. The pants t him perfectly,
and the cummerbund is subtle but nonetheless present.
PHOTOBYSTEVEGRANITZ/WIREIMAGE The black-and-white loafers take the
overall look into costume territory. Picture it: Cotton Club, 1920,
jazz hands. The only thing missing is the straw bowler. February
14, 2013 ADVERTISEMENT MensWeekMW10 WWD THURSDAY,FEBRUARY14,2013
LanvinMensStore ChinaCrackdownCouldHitMens byCASEYHALL SHANGHAI
With incoming President Xi Jinping repeatedly
flaggingacrackdownoncorruption and conspicuous consumption as top
priorities for his government, China watchers are concerned the
resultmaybeahitforamensmar- ket traditionally buoyed by the cul-
turalpracticeofgiftgiving. A new frugal working style rule on civil
servants also ofcial- ly went into effect last October, banning
those paid from the pub- lic purse from throwing lavish banquets,
buying expensive cars and accepting luxurious gifts.
Giftgivingandbriberyareboth favoredgiftforpolitically,economi-
callyandsociallyandsometimes all three powerful men in China
and,inrecentyears,Beijingsregu- lar Party Congresses have become a
parade of straight-faced suits sportingRolex,Omega,Cartierand
PatekPhilippetimepieces. The rst watches were brought to China by
French missionaries in the17thcenturyandwereoriginal- ly a gift to
emperors and so on. So theloveaffairbetweenwatchesand
Chinaandtherelationshipbetween men in China and the culture of
gifting have developed in tandem, David Sadigh, chief executive of-
cer of Digital Luxury Group, told WWD. The group recently released
will be watches and jewelry, other things from wine and spirits,
yachts, cars, private jets willcontinuetogrowatasta-
blerate,Lusaid. Brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo and Bottega
Veneta have already invested heavily intherisingpersonalconsump-
tion of Chinese men on the lookout for stylish substance over
excess bling by expanding theirproductrangesandsetting up specialty
gents stores in the GreaterChinaregion. I can say that for
Ferragamo, the mens catego- ries [in China] are signicantly
important,saidMicheleNorsa, InsidethenewLanvin mensboutique.
9. Fashion Week Report K A R E N C H I A N G
10. Short tuxedo suit, a feathered chubby jacket and leopard
prints that harkened back to the famous discos banquettes The
accessories picked up on the playful motifs via enamel charms on
necklaces and pins and a black satin sandal with a tuxedo collar at
the ankle Even a pair of sunglasses formed an open pair of lips in
homage to the disco era It was all about the eighties atKate Spade
New York's Fall 2013 presentation. It looked like a set forSex and
the CityrebootThe Carrie Diaries, which takes place in 1984
Taxi-inspired heels, sparkly lip sunglasses, and a sweatshirt
featuring a sprinkle donuthot pink ruled, and old-school taxicabs
served as props Kate Spade New York is fashion with a quirk and
spun it into a full-blown world of glamour with a sense of humor
Kate Spades 80s inspiration shown through the use of bright color
and patterns Clever use of accessories, with simple suit outts,
collar ankle shoes, lips sunglasses, and bright yellow taxi clutch
grabs the attention Bold use of colors, even with solid colors Kate
Spade is still able to make the distinctive contrast. Kate Spade
still has ways to make the outt stands out Friday, February 8, 2013
K A R E N C H I A N G
11. Friday, February 8, 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G There were
party frocks in pop colors, easy day pieces like ripped denim and
quilted leather Some fun rounded-shoulder tops that winked at the
space suits she had in mind when designing this collection Her girl
is a rock n roll tomboy at heart bomber jacket-track pant combo in
leather and burnout plaid Layers of silky plaid, distressed denim,
and quilted leather created a sexy tomboy vibe particularly when
paired with some of the holographic pointy heels and handbags The
clear standout, however, was outerwear The nale look, a
persimmon-colored sheath with sculpted shoulders worn by Ruby
Aldridge, also earned high marks and seemed like a directional step
forward Feminine tomboy looks, subtle reference of her space
inspiration blended with a futuristic look Minko used a lot of
leather;, great use of dierent fabrics on same piece, such as
leather sleeves with knits Strong outerwear that has a lot of
character
12. Friday, February 8, 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Miller's
imagination has a sartorial range from band jackets to ris on
tuxedo dressing Raiding her boyfriends closet can aord a girl a
pretty good wardrobe if she pilfers selectively and adds her own
sexy touches Commercial against cool quite well assortment of knits
and pretty orals, which added a touch of softness to the mostly
mannish fare A leather-trimmed tuxedo jacket and motorcycle jacket
with a front panel of ponyskin were both sharply done V-neck black
cocktail dress of layered georgette was a at-out winner Miller made
ne use of the same print in a soft silk gown with trench coat
lapels terric lean suit of patchwork denim and black jacquard
Miller incorporated many suit jackets in her Fall collection,
giving it a more masculine look Beautiful patterns that are made
into a trench coat as well as a well tailored dress City girl with
a tom boy look added with twist of sass
13. Monday, February 11 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Clothes
radiated Karans sexy, body-centric allure that has become
increasingly artful over the years Time and again she draped,
twisted and slashed her beloved jerseys to perfection in fabulous
dresses Donna also spliced wool and sheer jerseys into gowns,
sometimes adding a high-drama cape or shearling cowl Capes are
trending big-time, and Donna did all kinds: asymmetrical and
sweeping in jersey, built into a jacket in double-face neoprene, to
the oor for evening Opaque hosiery was another Karan innovation
that we take for granted. Wrap skirts that ashed a hint of thigh
were a reminder that she did them rst The designer's trick here was
to tap into her DNA without feeling retro. The draping of the
fabric were phenomenal, as well as asymmetrical cuts. Models hair
were all pulled back, giving our full attention to the clothes
Striking round shoulder jackets gave the whole look a more tough
look
14. Monday, February 11 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Polished
side of the retro genre with simple, covered-up dresses and
tailored separates that highlighted the responsible sideShes grown-
up and gotten a job Ruddy color palette shown here in shades of
orange, red and blue as well as some graphic, colorfully clashing
prints Jacobs men was an element of Jacobs grunge in a plaid car
coat and rumpled sweater, countered by some shots of fancy, like a
vivid red overcoat and crocodile embossed belts Marc by Marc Jacobs
was always Marc's vehicle for a kind of low-key collegiate funk,
and on that level, it's usually been a sterling success A bit more
wattage in the hair and makeup, a bit more sex in the clothes If
the prints, proportions, and satiny sheen echoed Roxy Music fans
refracting the forties through a seventies glam lens, that too felt
just about right The big blowout hair on models resembled the 70s
retro era Jacobs uses darker palette this season, for example dark
red, brown, deep green, and blue A lot of high waist skirt that are
paired with collared shirts, resembles professionalism
15. Monday, February 11 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Hints of a
forties heroine in mind, Carolina Herrera designed a collection
about glamour and gumption Dresses and gowns with high keyhole
necklines had dened shoulders and teeny belted waists that
highlighted the graceful movement of the uid crepe skirts
Developing her own prints is a source of great pleasure and pride
for Herrera. This time they were based on owers, specically dahlias
and urchins Herrera's collections don't often dovetail with the
reigning trends of the season but they're fully realized enough to
create their own realities Victory-roll coif and her wasp-waisted
dresses and full skirts, she was a kind of vixenish moll Even with
a heavy rain shower, she lled the Lincoln Center theater venue
required the full symphonic talents of the London Contemporary
Orchestra Herreras gowns owed beautifully, almost lively looking.
Middle parted, sleek pulled back with two twists on each side
coordinated with her 40s theme The oral patterns were such a big
statement in Herreras Fall 2013 collection
16. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Provided
a lovely study on luxurious fabrics, volume and silhouettes,
referencing several couture concepts Main silhouette was the egg
shapelayered constructions of multiple piecesfeaturing deep
armholes with low, inset pockets Couture touches were also
demonstrated via Japanese inuences, namely intricate origami cuts
and a gathered kimono dress with a focus on volume in the back
Calling her collection an exploration of classic dressmaking in
sculptural silhouettes Wang can't resist a bit of fur, and her
black fox cape, fastened at the neckline with a studded leather
strap over a jeweled T-shirt dress, had charm Photos don't do
justice to the iridescence of a youthful pink sequined and beaded
V-neck dress Multiple looks from the collection emphasized on the
egg shape on the waist Patterns were beautiful. Especially the
yellow on purple The mix of dierent pattern silhouettes gave black
a fun exciting look
17. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Burch
took her moody colors from Klimts work and focused on the blending
of textures and patterns Find a full wardrobes wealth of clothes,
from sexy sheaths to dresses with waisted bodices Pretty,
interesting and wearable, three characteristics that added up to
one very smart collection Gustav Klimt painted some of the most
rapturous works inspiredthat was suused with a gilded sense of
romance Jewelry, accessories, and eyewear are rapidly becoming
cornerstones of her empire, and the ornateness of her inspirations
gave her ample excuse to pile them on Art Nouveau orals, scarab
prints, and dragony motifs stoked that fairy-tale ame Burch played
with color, patterns, and textures Accessories were a breath of
fresh air. From beetle necklace, wing shape sunglasses to shoes in
resemblance of bugs. There were no boring outts, each look has
something interesting added to it
18. Tuesday, February 12 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G While the
collection was outerwear-heavy, there were some lady-killer dresses
in splash-art prints and versions in leather and wool combos
Designer continued on that same aesthetic, but sprinkled military
references throughout Demonstrated that Tahari has a recharged
engine as he looks to build on his creative and commercial power
base Set out to evoke "a Siberian winter covering an urban
landscape" with his Fall presentation, which featured architectural
fabric installations by Gisela Stromeyer that gave the impression
of sweeping glaciers and arctic tundra The set enhanced the
collection, which brimmed with impressive outerwear Detectable
military inuence in menswear items like double-breasted peacoat and
leather cargo jackets, which were paired with slim, tailored
trousers Great outerwear collection, especially the neckline on the
women coats. The funnel neck shape and adds volume. Taharis
menswear looks are sophisticated and well polished. The collection
is a military with a twist of futuristic look
19. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013 K A R E N C H I A N G Gilles
Mendel worked luxe furs, trapunto- stitched leathers and liquid
satin and velvet panne gowns into his fall lineup Citing German
artist Gerhard Richter as an inspiration, Mendel worked in an
earthy palette of burgundy, copper and moss with pops of red and
royal blue The cozy mink intarsia pullovers and black grooved mink
coat, shown belted and over a blouse with a high white ermine
collar, looked best There's no point going to aJ. Mendelshow if
you're queasy about fur He really outdid himself with his laser-cut
minks, in particular the trim black coat sliced in a pattern so
subtle, it had to be touched to be believed There was a recurring
biker theme here, which Mendel cannily translated for his super-
upscale clientele Mendel known for his fur creation, he did not
disappoint this year. Beautifully made fur coats, you can already
know what it feels like just by looking Even when it is not a fur
piece, Mendel still nds ways to incorporate fur. For example,
accessories and fur cus that goes with gowns Mendel also created
gorgeous drape gowns in the Fall collection
20. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG She loved the
graphic aesthetic of Godards lms particularly his set designs, the
use of red and blue, black and white and even his fonts Over the
top as this Sui collection was, it was colorful and playful, with
some fun pieces that are sure to please Faux fur jackets and coats
added volume and texture to some of the Sixties-esque striped and
printed frocks Sui is probably contemporary fashion's most lovable
archaeologist, but simple historicism can turn on a dime into a
leaden nostalgia-fest Mash a pell-mell overload of colors,
textures, patterns, and accessories into a coherent whole Skirt,
waistcoat, and jacket that were actually a trompe l'oeil one-piece
that zipped up the back, just like in the olden days when the
all-in-one was a cost- eective fashion solution for cash-strapped
go-girls Vibrant, primary colors were used a lot in her collection.
Big contrast of colors. Patterns and textures were also a big
theme. As we can see the patterns on model matches the socks. Sui
portrayed quirky, fun, and youthfulness through this
collection
21. Wednesday, February 13 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG Merger of
rampant athleticism and luxury coats on Kors fall runway He binged
on the sporty and the polished with blaring colors, cobalt blue and
taxicab yellow shown against slick black in exaggerated proportions
that varied between performance and ladylike Kors toughened up his
mens wear with camo prints and black leather Many of the tailored
pieces seemed built for speed with rounded shoulders and
aerodynamic double-face construction Goggles added to that feeling
Plenty of urban warriors at the show would kill for his charcoal
gray wool melton overcoat and the pantsuit shown underneath it
Kors' big idea for after dark, a tted minidress with a peplum
overskirt that extended all the way to the oor in back The goggles
added more futuristic, matrix look Kors mostly used yellow, blue,
and black. Blue and Yellow pops up a lot in contrast to black
Camouage added more of a masculine look. It is also a smart idea to
use it on fur coats.
22. Thursday, February 14 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG Though most were
black or navy, Lauren lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory toppe
Lauren broke up the mannish inuence with lovely uid dresses in
deep-toned velvets wine, blue, purple Cases in point: a divine
beaded jersey with plunging neckline and a midnight column with
jeweled yoke that channeled one of Laurens favorite ladies, Audrey
Hepburn Lauren took us on a romantic voyage with naval-inspired
pieces, vaguely Russian-feeling velvets and tapestry embroideries,
and dramatic eveningwear Extending the sailor theme into evening, a
tted sherman sweater and to-the-oor tiered black skirt in taeta and
organzaa modern mix of day and night Closed with a group of
jewel-tone shirred taeta gowns made all the more grand by the fur
hats the models wore Hint of Russian inuence when fur hats were
worn with the gowns in the end There were also sailor inuences;
subtle bows around the neck, marine symbol on a long dress Many
high waist trousers; beautifully tailored pieces
23. Thursday, February 14 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG Roy took ornate
details from 17th- and 18th-century art and applied them to the
clothes in a variety of ways Some of it looked rich, but at times
Roy could have used a little restraint White knit sweater shown
with a chic paisley like jacquard pencil skirt, and a chevron and
embroidered bomber jacket were her best Digital runway show rather
than a formal presentation A chambord-colored bomber jacket with
spiky beads at the shoulders and metallic jacquard panels, which
was paired with a brocade velour pencil skirt, illustrated the mix
of materials here There were a few eclectic ensembles that felt a
bit too busy, but those could usually be broken down into their
individual pieces, which were very wearable for the most part The
patterns damask design somewhat reected a French royalty look Roy
uses statement belts in her darker color pieces Each piece is very
wearable in a daily life
24. Thursday, February 14 , 2013 KAREN CHIANG Perhaps the most
overtly glamorous collection Jacobs has ever done First allowing
the audience to see everything only in blacks, grays and an
otherworldly sepiaThe light then changed to something resembling
normal, revealing a gorgeous palette of neutrals and soft colors
Jacobs opted for traditional materials of the most luxe sort:
double-faced cashmeres and alpacas; rened silks ample fur beaver,
fox, mink Cable-knit sweaters, tailored blazers and vests, silk
pajamas, fox chubbies, scads of high- waisted briefsall familiar
from Jacobs' oeuvre In a New York season strong on real-life
clothes, the straightforwardness of that approach resonated There
were terric coats here for days, as well as neat little oce-bound
sweater and pencil skirt sets. For after-dark, Jacobs layered on
those sequins Jacobs did not shy away from furs this season.
Pairing it with sequence dresses, and as a coat Jacobs also used
softer colors blues, deep green, and burgandy The fur scarfs were
unique, they looked like real animal wrapped around the models
25. Five Trends (Fall 2013) K A R E N C H I A N G
26. Metallic Shine
27. Asymmetrical
28. Modern Military
29. Leather
30. Camel Color
31. Three Top Shows K A R E N C H I A N G
32. Burchs Fall 2013 collection showed inspiration from the
20s, 30s, 40s , not only was it shown in clothes, but also see a
strong inuence on the accessories. Clutches, shoulder bags, and
sunglasses all reected the vintage look The collection did not shy
away from bold use of prints. From Art Nouveau orals, scarab
prints, to dragony motifs Great thing about Burchs collection is
that it is both wearable for professional occasions and evening
events. The styles are chic and attering to almost all body types
Karan want back to her own rst success The Seven Sensations of the
mid-eighties Black stretch jersey with sheer inset at the waist,
topped by a matching stretch wrap hugs the body beautifully. Also,
the asymmetrical drape from one should to another and the way it
ows as model walks was stunning Karan focused on black and brown
mostly throughout the collection. Which gave it an easier
transition from day to night Herreras models were awlessly groomed,
with their hair twisted into 1940s chignon rolls. It adds on a more
cinematic quality to the whole collection Big oral patterns are key
in Herreras Fall 2013 collection. Dahlias and urchins prints on
graceful movement gowns After seeing so much fur on models, it is
refreshing to see how Herrera use fur in her collection. I nd it
very interesting how she added fur on the sides of the pocket