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Page 1: Destinations Africa

GARDEN ROUTE EGYPT MALAWI CAPE TOWN MOROCCO KENYAPLUS

Destinations

GO WILDAfrica’s best safaris

AFRICA

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PEOPLE PLACES ANIMALS ADVENTURE

Choosing the right adventure company is just so important for the success of your visit to Africa. It can be the difference between the trip of a lifetime or a complete nightmare.

Adventure companies are not all the same.

African owned and operated, Nomad Tours, offers the widest range of exciting and fun adventure overland tours throughout Southern and East Africa, covering 15 countries including South Africa, Lesotho, Swaziland, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Ethiopia and Madagascar.

With our unique tour linking system, almost any combination of tours is possible. We have over 100 different route options available for you and most tours are available in either the camping version (where you sleep in 2 man dome tents) or accommodated (you get to sleep in a bed). Single supplements are also available.

Being African based you can be assured that your money is going directly into the continent. Added to this Nomad is a major contributor to the Nomad African Trust, a non-profi t charity organisation. In addition, please consider buying a Green Seat, where you can offset the carbon cost of your trip.

Nomad tours are perfect for free spirited people with a lust for adventure

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£89.00 per dayCome explore with us

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Welcome to TNT’s Destinations Africa

supplement, in which we

bring you the very best of

what this mighty continent

has to offer.

From bungee jumping

and skydiving in Cape

Town, to spotting lion kills

in Tanzania, we’ve got the

lowdown on Africa’s

biggest thrills for

adventurous travellers.

Fancy something a bit

more relaxing? Then climb

aboard a felucca with us

as we slowly sail down the

Nile, or take to Lake

Malawi in a kayak and

end your nights camping

under the stars.

But if there’s one thing

you absolutely can’t miss

in Africa, then it’s going

on safari.

And we’ve got loads

of tips on how to make

sure your safari is one to

remember; whether it’s

choosing the right country,

or having a DIY adventure

on foot or even by taxi!

Happy travelling!

The Destinations team

Editor Carol Driver Acting Travel Editor Laura Chubb Contributing Writers Alasdair Morton, Tom Sturrock, Frankie Mullin, Rebecca Kent, Clare Vooght, Jahn Vannisselroy, Adam Edwards, Amy Adams, Jennifer Carr, Lucy Corne Head Of Design And Production Jon Cooke Graphic Design Manager Justine Mackay Acting Picture Researcher Ruth Board Head Of Digital Marketing & Development Syed Ahmad Social Media Coordinator Dan Thorne IT Manager Stephen Dann Commercial Director David Alstin Sales Managers Jaqui Ward, Matt Syder Sales Executives Tyler Harrison, Eddie Clinton, Donovan Smith, Michael Fair TNT Multimedia Ltd CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Publisher TNT Multimedia Limited Distribution Emblem Direct Ltd Printed By Wyndeham Peterborough Limited News AAP SAPA NZPA Pictures Getty Images, TNT Images, ThinkstockTNT Magazine, 10 Greycoat Place, London, SW1P 1SB tntmagazine.comGeneral Enquiries Phone 020 7960 6008 Fax 020 7960 6977 Email [email protected] Sales Enquiries Phone 020 7989 0567 Email [email protected]

Welcome Letter

08 MARRAKECH MUST- DO’SWhat you can’t afford to miss in Morocco’s capital

10 RELAXING EGYPTNeed some chill time after the madness of Cairo? We go sailing down The Nile

14 SHOESTRING SAFARIHow to bike, taxi and walk with the wildlife on a budget

18 BEST OF CAPE TOWNWhether you’re a thrillseeker or a yellow-belly, you’ll be bowled over by Cape Town

24 ECO-MALAWILimit your carbon footprint by kayaking and camping around a sub-Saharan Eden

29 GARDEN ROUTECage dive with sharks, surf and slug port on SA’s answer to Route 66

05 TOP 5 SAFARISNo trip to Africa is complete without a safari. Here’s the best places to do it and why

> CONTENTSDESTINATIONS AFRICA

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Going on safari is your essential African experience, and spotting the Big Five will be high on every

traveller’s agenda. A term coined by white hunters, it refers to the fi ve most diffi cult animals in Africa to hunt on foot, and comprises the lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard, and rhinoceros. And there’s all manner of other African animals that you’ll thrill to see up close: zebra, giraffes, hippos, cheetahs ... the list goes on.

But safari is a gamble. The beasts you get to see will

vary depending on the time of year and all sorts of other

factors. However, there are some countries and parks that

give you a better chance than most. Here’s our pick of

the best places to go on safari in Africa.

1 KenyaSTAR ATTRACTION Wildebeest

Africa’s most popular safari destination, Kenya might be

having some PR problems right now, but nothing can take

away from the might of its Masai Mara Reserve. Go

between July and October and bear witness to the

AFRICA > BEST SAFARIS

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Africa’s best safaris If you’re desperate to see the Big Five and determined to spot all of the other wonders of Africa’s animal kingdom, these are the best places to do itWORDS LAURA CHUBB

Stare out lions in Tanzania

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DESTINATIONS AFRICA

SA for cheetahs

jaw-dropping migration of millions of wildebeest and zebra.

Set in the Rift Valley with Tanzania’s Serengeti Plains running

along the southern end, you are pretty much guaranteed

to spy the Big Five.

2 BotswanaSTAR ATTRACTION Elephant

The Chobe National Park is home to tens of thousands of

elephants, so you’re unlikely to miss the big-eared fellows

when you visit. In fact, you’re likely to see hundreds. Go

between April and October – the cooler winter months

– to see herds of zebra, buffalo, giraffe and wildebeest, too.

Because the land dries up, the animals tend to congregate

by the river banks, making them easier to spot.

3 South AfricaSTAR ATTRACTION Cheetah

The Kruger National Park is renowned for boasting the most

diverse range of wildlife to see on safari, from lions, rhino

and leopards to hippos, crocs and cheetahs. There’s a

range of accommodation, from self-catering bungalows

to luxury lodges, and you can even do a self-drive safari.

4 TanzaniaSTAR ATTRACTION Lion

Offering what many call the ‘classic safari’ experience,

Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park offers great grasslands

for spotting lion kills (if that’s your bag). You can also get

a more exclusive-feeling view of the wildebeest and zebra

migration that makes its way through Kenya, as there are

fewer tourists in Tanzania.

5 NamibiaSTAR ATTRACTION Black rhinoceros

The Etosha National Park in northern Namibia is home to the

endangered black rhinoceros – declared extinct in western

Africa last year. As well as spotting this increasingly rare

beast, you’ll likely see giraffes, elephants, lions and often

even cheetahs and leopards. n

The black rhino

A zebra herd

Botswana is best for elephants

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DESTINATIONS AFRICA

MOROCCO

MARRAKECH

GETTING THEREFly direct from London

Gatwick to Marrakechwith easyJet from £108 return. (easyjet.com)

A snake charmer in Djemaa el-fna

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Trawl the city’s souks

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Marvellous Marrakech Marrakech is full of colour and the potential for adventure. From losing yourselfin its huge souk to unwinding in a hammam, here’s what you can’t afford to miss WORDS JAHN VANNISSELROY

Treat yourself to a journey to Morocco this year. It’s only a short plane ride away, meaning a weekend

break in Marrakech is perfectly within reach.

Why Marrakech? Little more than a three-hour fl ight from London, this

imperial Moroccan city is gloriously exotic. It’s known

as ‘The Red City’ to the native Berber community, but

its atmosphere is hardly monochromatic. Marrakech is

home to bustling street markets, or souks, relaxing spas,

or hammams, and cultural museums, while just a stone’s

throw from the majestic Atlas Mountains.

Don’t missYou’ll be tempted to spend all your time at the Djemaa

el-Fna or ‘main square’, the liveliest town centre in Africa.

By day, acrobats, snake charmers, storytellers and belly

dancers entrance hordes of spectators, but come

nightfall, the square transforms into an open-air dining

room, as food carts selling succulent treats emerge from

the plumes of smoke. Amid the mouth-watering mountains

of nosh and zesty aromas that fi ll the air, sellers will vie for

your attention, swearing that their wares are the best.

Best of the restDon’t expect an entirely soothing experience when visiting

a hammam, which can be found in luxury hotels and riads

(a traditional Moroccan house or palace). You’ll be given

a thorough scrubbing with black soap, which will wipe

away any trace of dirt or tan, before having a bucket of

water thrown over you, then you’ll be left to sweat it all

out in the sauna. The experience is topped off with

a soothing massage, so you leave feeling rejuvenated

and super-clean.

Dinner timeTagine, both the name of the stew and the dish in which

it’s cooked, is a hearty blend of vegetables, fruit, nuts

and meat slow-cooked over a bed of charcoal and

devoured with a heap of warm bread. For lighter fare,

try vegetarian couscous, sweetly enriched with dates,

almonds, raisins and cinnamon. For more adventurous

foodies, there’s always monkey brains, a delicacy

rumoured by the locals to cure impotence.

Money shotThe minaret of the famous Koutoubia Mosque stands at

an underwhelming 77 metres, but towers above the rest of

the city thanks to a decree that states no building can rise

above it. The mosque is particularly stunning when bathed

in the golden light of a sunset as the faithful are called to

prayer. Get clicking.

Where to stayRiad Massine is an ancient riad completely restored to its

original Spanish-Berber style. It’s located in Bab Doukkala,

one of Marrakech’s oldest residential districts, and provides

accommodation for groups and single travellers. From

£6pppn. For bookings and other accomodation options

see riad-massine2.hostel.com or hostelworld.com n

Morocco > Marrakech

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DESTINATIONS AFRICA

Felucca: essentially a fl oating bed

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GETTING THEREBritish Airways

(britishairways.com) offers return fl ights from London to Cairo for £273. Thomson (thomson.co.uk), Monarch (monarch.co.uk) and easyJet (easyjet.com) do fl ights from London to Luxor from £195.

Sail your way back to sanity You can’t knock Cairo for sheer buzz, but after negotiating the mayhem for a few days, you’ll be ready for some chill time. We fi nd sailing the Nile is the answer WORDS LUCY CORNE

Cairo is great for many things – exquisite bakeries and superlative shopping;

amazing architecture and welcoming residents – but relaxing it isn’t. The city is rammed with crazy drivers and more haggling, honking and hawking than even the most seasoned traveller can bear. However, there is another side to Egypt and if you want to relax, a sailing trip does wonders for the blood pressure.

The day after leaving Cairo, I fi nd myself

listening to the gentle splashing of the Nile

as I lie aboard a felucca. These fl at sailing

boats are essentially giant fl oating beds,

their decks almost entirely taken up by thin-yet-comfy

mattresses. You can take a trip for a matter of hours or

days, depending on the level of stress to be alleviated.

For me, it only takes a few hours on a felucca to return

my tension to pre-Cairo levels. I ponder the day we’ve had

– a midday departure from the southern city of Aswan, an

afternoon nap as the Nile gently carried us northward, a

surprisingly delicious dinner on board and a couple of cold

beers as the sun set over the river. We sleep anchored to

the river bank and awake to a typical breakfast of strong,

sugary tea and hard-boiled eggs.

With the gloriously laid-back pace of the trip set, we

then settle in for a day of utter relaxation peppered with

the occasional brush with local culture.

Our skipper, who calls himself ‘Captain Hubbly Bubbly’,

thanks to his love of the hookah pipe, abandons ship mid-

morning to do a little essential shopping for

his passengers. His list is an unusual one

featuring just two items – toilet paper and

camel meat (the latter perhaps

necessitating an increased supply of the

former ... ).

As we take turns at the helm between

naps and sips of Egyptian Stella beer, the

river banks pass by, sometimes fringed with

palm trees; other sections punctuated with

whitewashed houses or the occasional

mosque. After lunch we anchor to await

the return of Captain Hubbly Bubbly and

my eye catches the comical sight of two

teenage boys attempting to bathe a cow that is clearly

happier out of the water.

After a 15-minute struggle to lure the animal into the river

they admit defeat, leave the cow to its own devices and

go for a swim. They approach our boat and wave to us

EGYPT > THE NILE

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FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO Spring and autumn are the best times to visit. The summer months are OK for sun lovers if you stick to the coast, but interior towns such as Aswan can get unbearably hot. IS IT SAFE? The Foreign and Commonwealth Offi ce has said it is still safe to visit Egypt, in spite of violent protests in Cairo last year in which several people were killed. However, tourists are warned to stay away from demonstrations and crowds. (fco.gov.uk)SEE egypt.travel

EGYPT

CAIRO

Luxor

Dahab

River Nile

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DESTINATIONS AFRICA

to jump in. Eyeing the murky water and thinking of all those

travel ailments I foolishly read up on before leaving home,

I’m hesitant, but once my fellow passengers take the

plunge I don’t want to get left out.

Wading in fully clothed (a swimsuit seems wholly

inappropriate in rural Egypt) I’m shocked to fi nd the Nile

a pleasant place to swim. We fl oat around until Hubbly

Bubbly returns with an armful of loo roll and a bag

overfl owing with utterly unappetising meat.

That evening, our second and last on board, we party

on the river bank. Barbequed camel turns out to be not

only bearable but actually tasty. To celebrate his culinary

success, Captain Hubbly Bubbly breaks out his goblet drum.

A fi ne evening caps off a wonderful day and we retreat

to our fl oating mattress.

The next morning as the felucca nears Kom Ombo,

home to a stunning riverside temple and the place where

we have to bid farewell to Hubbly and his boat, I feel ready

for a bit of a haggle. In fact, after a few days on the

felucca, I feel ready to tackle Cairo again. n

Barbequed camel turns out to be not only bearable but tasty

DIVE INTO DAHAB

If you’re still not chilled enough after your felucca trip, get yourself to the beach resort of Dahab. Open-air restaurants line the beachfront, where you can sip cocktails or lassis and munch on the free appetisers each establishment uses to attract diners. The Red Sea laps just metres away, its waters a magnet for divers and snorkelers from around the world.

Dahab is Egypt’s laidback and beautiful answer to Thailand’s Koh Samui. Oceanic pursuits take centre stage in this largely budget resort, but those who come to take their PADI course or sample the world-class snorkeling action often end up staying longer than planned.

There’s more to this resort perched on the edge of the stark and striking Sinai region than diving and daiquiris, though. Day trips take in the swirling patterns and iconic rock formations of the Coloured Canyon, while overnight camel treks stop off for a little nomadic culture in a Bedouin camp. And whether you’re religious or not, taking the midnight hike to the biblical mountain’s 2285m summit in time for a desert sunrise will be a memorable experience.

» Check out egypttourinfo.com for more on cruising down the Nile on a felucca

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Saturday 3 March 2012Earls Court Exhibition Centre

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TRAINING

Including

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DESTINATIONS AFRICA

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Get up close to nature Spot giraffes on a walk

Cycle with zebra

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KENYA

NAIROBI

GETTING THEREKenya Airways and

British Airways offer direct fl ights to Nairobi from £400 return. Indirect fl ights with Swiss Airways start at £360 return. (kenya-airways.com; britishairways.com; swiss.com)

Kenya on a shoestring Planning your own Kenyan safari can benefi t your budget as well getting you even closer to the Big Five. We show you how to bike, taxi and walk with the wildlife WORDS AMY ADAMS

It really isn’t the best moment, just as we drive up alongside three white rhino, to

discover that my car window doesn’t wind down. Sensing my frustration as I peer through the dusty glass, my taxi driver, Mwaka, suggests I open my door and get even closer. The only thing between me and the nearest of these huge rhinos is my digital camera.

“That one’s getting angry now,”

Mwaka advises, prompting me to hurriedly

shut the door. Our vehicle might not boast

all the mod cons, but this kind of up-close-

and-personal experience is the pay-off for

eschewing organised tours and doing it yourself.

BikingHiring a bike at Elsa Gate for KES500 (£3.70) and paying

the park entrance fee of KES2100 (about £15) is a great

way to begin an alternative safari, taking in Hell’s Gate

National Park by Lake Naivasha in the Rift Valley, an hour

from Nairobi. The sandy terrain doesn’t make for an easy

ride, but our efforts are rewarded when I round a corner

and see a waterhole thronging with zebras, their black

and white stripes striking against the earthy backdrop.

In the other direction, a fellow cyclist spies a giraffe.

As we get nearer, we spot another, and another, until

a family of four becomes visible. Then they slope off into

the trees, their movements so jarringly unfamiliar that it’s

hard to believe they are actually real.

TaxiWith blaring hip-hop and passengers

hanging out the door, minibuses, known

as matatus, might not seem the sanest,

most relaxed way to travel, but they

are cheap and cheerful, and an

undoubtedly novel experience. After

taking one into Naivasha town and then

further on to Nakuru, I disembark in a

chaotic market place.

Following some fi erce haggling, I fi nd

a taxi driver who is prepared to take me

on a three-hour tour of Lake Nakuru

National Park for KES3500 (£25) plus the

park fee of US$60 (£38). Admittedly, it’s not peanuts, but

I had budgeted to pay far more.

WalkingIf cycling past giraffes is a surreal experience, then

KENYA > SHOESTRING SAFARI

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FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO January and February are the most popular months, due to the hot, dry weather. You can go any time, but avoid the rainy season (March to the end of May). CURRENCY £1 = KES135 (Kenyan shilling)IS IT SAFE? You’re advised to steer clear of all areas near the Somali border. Travellers should also be extra-vigilant in Nairobi,as the capital is under a heightened threat of terror attacks (fco.gov.uk)SEE magicalkenya.com

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Page 16: Destinations Africa

The city centre of Nairobi is worth a visit to experience the downtown buzz, grab a few souvenirs and have your pick of restaurants, but don’t leave without visiting Karen, a leafy suburb, south of Nairobi, which feels like it belongs to a different city.

Among the colonial villas and tree-lined streets you’ll fi nd unique attractions. In particular, check out the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, set up to look after orphaned black rhinos and elephants until they’re strong enough to go back into the wild and fend for themselves. You can visit this corner of the Nairobi National Park each day between 11am and noon to watch the baby elephants being fed from giant bottles of milk. See: sheldrickwildlifetrust.org Head to the Giraffe Centre, where endangered Rothschild giraffes are bred before being released into the wild. The centre is on stilts, so you get the rare chance to be at eye-level with these amazing creatures – grab a fi stful of pellets and hand-feed them. At the nearby Giraffe Manor they roam the gardens. You can stay for a hefty price or just have afternoon tea, but you’ll need to book ahead. See: giraffecentre.org

In Kibera, the city’s largest shanty town, a small bead factory and craft shop that is the Kazuri bead and pottery centre has been set up to create jobs for residents. A member of staff will give you a free tour around the factory, from the kilns to the intricate glazing and industrious threading. The pretty necklaces and pots made here are sent round the world, and you can fi nd a selection of them in the shop. See: kazuri.com

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DESTINATIONS AFRICA

walking among them is yet another step into the

unexpected. At Crater Lake Game Sanctuary back near

Lake Naivasha, we pay an entrance fee of KES700 (£5)

and the park is ours to mingle between the giraffes,

zebras, impalas and gazelles. I stand and watch in awe

as a group of giraffes, initially keeping a wary eye on me

as they snack on the trees, startled by the noise of a car,

turn and gallop away in an awkward slow-motion lope

that causes the ground to shake.

Later, while making my way to the jade Crater Lake, I

come across the strangest bird I’ve ever seen – there he is,

marching across the open grassland, his upper body like a

majestic eagle and lower half like a spindly stork, seeming

to lunge with each step. According to my guidebook, it’s

a secretary bird, known to walk up to 20km a day.

Even compared to the angry rhino, the munching

giraffes and the thronging, luminous fl amingos, it’s an

unexpected highlight, and something I probably

wouldn’t have spotted from a fl ash 4WD. So if your jaw

drops to the fl oor at the price of going on safari with an

organised tour, then rest assured that you can always do

it yourself. Just make sure the taxi door shuts properly. n

The only thing between me and the nearest of the rhinos

is a digital camera

BEST OF NAIROBI

Face-to-face

Safari by taxi

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THE SMART CHOICE FOR GORILLA ENCOUNTERS

For more details or to book call 0844 7360 170 or visit www.geckosadventures.com

ATOL 6076

Guaranteed spots on a gorilla trek No waiting around thanks to secured permits A range of tours & itineraries from 8–79 days English speaking local leaders

With the African specialistsAbsolute Africa 30 years overlanding in Africa

www.absoluteafrica.com www.absoluteafrica.com Phone: 0208 742 0226 Phone: 0208 742 0226 Email: [email protected]: [email protected]

A whole range of trips incl. game drives in the Masai Mara and the Serengeti, gorilla trekking, guided game walks, rhino trekking, evening game drives and so much more.

Get amongst it!

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Skydive over Robben Island

Surf at Kommetjie

Table Mountain

Addo Elephant National Park

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GETTING THEREFly direct from London

to Cape Town with South African Airways (fl ysaa.com) from £720 return. Fly indirect with Etihad, via Abu Dhabi, from £595 return. (etihadairways.com)

Cape Fear The Cape is perfect for both thrillseekers in search of an adrenaline-fuelled riot, and the more timid who are looking to relax, unwind and take in the glorious scenery WORDS ADAM EDWARDS

For a moment it looks a little like a certain Seventies blockbuster, as what

seems to be a fi n edges above the surface of the sea between me and my friends as we’re treading water offshore. My over-active imagination, fuelled by Jaws, kicks into overdrive and my life fl ashes before my eyes. But then I fi nd myself screaming through excitement rather than fear.

“Look!” I yell, as a tiny pup leaps out of

the water. “A baby sea lion.” The bug-

eyed scamp swims within a whisker’s

length of us, lapping up the attention.

“Only in Cape Town,” I say afterwards. It’s a cheesy

sentiment, but the so-called ‘LA of Africa’ more than lives

up to its gushing reviews.

The Mediterranean climate, exhilarating mix of cultures,

laid-back pace, not to mention some of the best waves in

the southern hemisphere, are just a snapshot of this city’s

appeal. But for others, it’s the heart-pounding range of

hair-raising activities on offer that is the draw.

Sitting down for lunch at one of the smart bistros lining

the historic V&A Waterfront, troupes of fi re-breathers,

jugglers and traditional African dancers on the quayside

offer ample entertainment as we plot our adventures.

First up? Climbing Table Mountain, the soaring fl at-

topped beauty that looms over the city. The three-hour

slog up this 3500ft (1000m) peak isn’t easy, but in the end

my aching legs pale in comparison to the amazing sense

of achievement.

After that mammoth challenge, it’s

time for a few well-deserved drinks. Long

Street in the heart of the city is chosen as

our destination. Bars and clubs overfl ow

on to mezzanine verandas, as people

huddle around tables watching life pass

by in the street below. As I lean against

the wrought-iron balustrades, with live

music and laughter ringing in my ears, it

could be New Orleans’ French Quarter

during Mardi Gras rather than Africa on

a week-night.

I’m staying a short taxi-ride away in

Observatory – a bohemian suburb packed with buzzing

hole-in-the-wall bars, shabby-chic cafes, and restaurants

where you can enjoy anything from a quiet coffee over a

book to a sumptuous three-course meal for less than a

tenner, or a seriously rowdy night dancing Coyote Ugly-

style on the bar.

SOUTH AFRICA > CAPE TOWN

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FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO Summertime is November-March. Be aware that prices can double during the Christmas holidays. ACCOMMODATION A dorm bed at South Boutique Backpackers (hostelworld.com) costs £6pn, while a dorm bed at The Backpack & Africa Travel Centre costs £10pn (backpackers.co.za). The Tulip Hotel & Conference Centre costs £28pn for a double (hotelclub.com).CURRENCY £1= ZAR12.61 (South African Rand)SEE capetown.travel

SOUTHAFRICA

CAPE TOWN

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Riding giantsThe next morning, I wake up itching to hit the beach. From

Observatory, it’s a 30-minute drive to the premier wind-

and kite-surfi ng hotspots at Muizenberg, where we pound

the waves for a while. It’s then on to Kalk Bay, where we

grab lunch at the Brass Bell – an open-sided restaurant-

cum-bar offering some of the best and most reasonably

priced grub in the city – as bikini-clad beauties and

bronzed gods sit at rustic picnic tables. I ponder chilling

out here for the rest of the day, but the promise of seeing

the pint-sized Jackass penguins further down the coast at

Boulders Beach proves just too alluring.

The waters in this part of the Cape, known as False Bay,

may be home to animals you might more readily expect

to be climbing the slopes of an Antarctic iceberg, but this

stretch of coast is actually the warmest in Cape Town. Still,

if you don’t mind your surf bracing, the Atlantic coast has

great waves. In the summer (November-March),

Kommetjie’s Sunset Reef boasts some of the largest waves

in the world which, on good days, can reach a giant 25ft

(eight metres) in height.

While the sight of the comical penguins waddling

along the beach and swimming among the bathers has

me in hysterics, my pals are more concerned with setting

up a date with the cute penguins’ mortal enemies. The

waters off Cape Town are home to one of the world’s

largest populations of great white sharks and, unbeknown

to me, cage-diving with these toothy predators is next on

the to-do list.

I manage to give this excursion a wide birth – I’ve seen

Spielberg’s blockbuster too many times to be dangled

over the side of a boat like giant bait. I value my limbs

intact, just the way they are, thank you very much. But

I wind up regretting my fear-dictated decision when my

friends return, with a full complement of limbs, bragging:

“They just appear out of nowhere and start circling around

the boat, before swimming right up to the bars of the

cage for a closer look.

“It’s such a weird experience. There’s literally just a few

inches of metal separating you from all those teeth.”

South African skyfallAfter facing death and sniggering in its face, my friends

decide to raise the stakes and plan a skydive over the city

(I again choose to opt out due to the aforementioned

limb-fears). A private transfer zips them over to an airstrip

half an hour north of the city, and while I languish, a lonely

chicken-shit at the poolside, they’re climbing 9000ft above

the peninsular, pointing out the landmarks beneath them.

“It’s the most fantastic way to see the city,” my friend

It could be New Orleans’ French Quarter during Mardi Gras,

not Africa on a week-night

DESTINATIONS AFRICA

View from Table Mountain

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Page 21: Destinations Africa

Claire says later. “We could see Robben Island and the

ocean dotted with boats, and Table Mountain towering

over the city on the other side of the bay.

“And the jump itself was unforgettable. After freefalling

for 30 seconds, the instructor pulled the chute and we

slowly drifted back down to Earth. It was so quiet.”

Elastic fantasticFrom then on all sights are set on the world’s highest

commercial bungee jump off Bloukrans Bridge – a gravity

defying 216m drop with only a chord of elastic to protect

you from a terminal ground-body interface. With this in

mind, we hire a car and set out along the tourist-clogged

but spectacular Garden Route, and it’s not long before I

discover why South Africa’s answer to Route 66 is so

popular.

The sheer number of sights and activities on offer

astounds: there’s dune boarding at De Hoop, black-water

tubing down Storms River; zip-wiring though the forests

of Tsitsikamma; and ostrich racing in Oudtshoorn. At long

last, I kiss a fi nal goodbye to my fears and pluck up the

courage to go zip-wiring, and spend an unforgettable

afternoon whizzing through the forest canopy like a crack-

SAS soldier (or, at least, I like to think).

Finding the Big FiveMy trip along the coast takes me as far as Addo Elephant

National Park – home to the largest concentration of

elephants on the planet – where I book a guided night-

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

Observatory Festival of ArtsThis bohemian neighbourhood is transformed into a giant festival ground during the weekend-long music, arts and fi lm event. Observatory’s main streets are given over to live performances, gigs and market stalls.See: obsarts.org.uk

Cape Minstrels CarnivalThe mixed-race community – who form the racial majority in Cape Town – spend months rehearsing their dance steps and creating outlandish suits in preparation for a noisy Mardi Gras-style parade.See: capetownminstrels.co.za

The Cape Town CarnivalBollywood dancers vie with Zulu “warriors” and man-made giraffes for the crowd’s attention. This unusual festival is part Rio Carnival, part Lion King: The Musical – with a dash of Oktoberfest thrown in for good measure.See: capetowncarnival.com

SOUTH AFRICA > CAPE TOWN

safari to witness Africa’s big game in their eerie nocturnal

world. Driving through the bush, the driver scans the

darkness, wisely ignoring the incandescent eye-shine of

the antelope and kudu standing agape by the side of the

road. After a few twists and turns, and a pride of lions that

views us suspiciously, the driver slams on the brakes

and cuts the engine. Out of the darkness >>

Cape Minstrels Carnival

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South Africa doesn’t begin and end with Cape Town, so venture further afi eld and discover all that this diverse, surprising and beguiling country has to offer.

Kruger National Park, located in the north-east of the country and comprising more than 7000 square miles, is Africa’s oldest established wildlife park and is the perfect place to catch a glimpse of the Big Five game animals (rhino, lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant).

No venture to South Africa would be complete without a trip to a township. Soweto, on the outskirts of Johannesburg and home to almost a million people, is often referred to as the heart-beat of the nation.

The Cape Winelands, to the east, are a must for anyone who fancies a drop of vino with their vacation, and has a wealth of special tours taking in a variety of vineyards, all set to a backdrop of stunning scenery.

Hermanus, along the south-east coast, is a sumptuous coastal town famed for its whale watching, whether this be from the land or from the crest and troughs of ocean waves.

See capetown.travel/country/uk» A tandem skydive is £130 skydivecapetown.za.net » Shark diving is £115 sharkcagediving.co.za» Bungee jumping is £65 faceadrenalin.com » An elephant-back safari is £85 addoelephantbacksafaris.co.za

appears a herd of more than 60 elephants marching trunk

to tail. It is the perfect end to my jaunt up-country.

Cape wineBack in Cape Town, I spend my last few days fl itting

between the hubbub of the bars and restaurants of Long

Street and the beach, before deciding that it’s only polite

to drop by some vineyards – “when in Rome” – where I

make a beeline for the Boschendal estate near the

picturesque town of Franschhoek, and while away a

blissful couple of hours sipping wine under the arms of an

oak tree. My friends and I stock up on vino and head

back into the city to watch the sunset from Lion’s Head,

the sphinx-shaped hill that fl anks Table Mountain.

After an hour-or-so climb, we reach the top and crack

open a bottle to celebrate, toasting the magnifi cence

before us, as the setting African sun dips ever-so-slowly

into the Atlantic.

The others start reminiscing about their adrenaline-

fuelled holiday, while I slip into my own little world and

start planning my next visit. I just hope next time I’ll have

discovered my inner daredevil. n

BEST OF THE RESTSouth African sights

you can’t miss

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DESTINATIONS AFRICA

World’s highest bungee

Sweeping vineyards

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DESTINATIONS AFRICA

Mumbo Island

Ogle a hippo or three in the Shire River

Malawi’s Rift Valley is startlingly bio-diverse

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MALAWI

LILONGWE

GETTING THEREKenya Airways fl ies

daily from London Heathrow to Lilongwe via Nairobi from around £570 (kenya-airways.com). South African Airways also fl ies daily from London Heathrow to Lilongwe via Johannesburg (fl ysaa.com)

How to eco-safari in Malawi Shun petrol-powered boats and electricity-guzzling hotel blocks in favour of kayaks, camping and wildlife. Here’s how to unplug in a land-locked African paradiseWORDS JENNIFER CARR

F lying 5000 miles to get to south-east Africa might not be environmentally

friendly, but anyone eco-conscious making the trip might sleep sounder to fi nd out how to do Malawi the green way. Natural splendour isn’t in short supply in the African country, so you don’t have to go the gas-guzzling route to fi nd it.

Float my boatI curl my limbs into a blisteringly hot kayak,

biceps ready to battle water on the mighty

Lake Malawi. Kaye, the sinewy Malawian

who’s accompanying me across the lake,

has his eyes locked on to one of the nine impossibly

perfect islands that protrude from the most southerly lake

in Africa’s Rift Valley. I forget myself in the midst of a

meditative, rhythmic paddle. Without warning, a whoosh

of white plumage and two metres of startling wingspan

fl anks our starboard and almost knocks the oar from my

hands. The regal African fi sh eagle responsible clearly

mimicked the RAF’s execution of a perfect fl y-by.

Our fi rst motor-free silent slink affords the kind of close-

ups you’d never get from a boisterous boat ride. With

each dip of my paddle, a wall of shimmering vertical

scales shift, disperse then rejoin; a mere fraction of the

lake’s 600 indigenous species that ensure this region is one

of the most bio-diverse on the planet. It’s like a Blu-Ray-

enhanced David Attenborough documentary with me

and my kayak on centre stage.

Conscientious camping

Two hours later we run aground on the

sand that fringes Mumbo Island and sink

our toes into what’s best described as

a sub-Saharan Eden. Shaded only by

ancient fi g and baobab trees, Mumbo

remains uninhabited except for a

community-run eco-camp of seven chic

tents. Every aspect of the camp is

sustainable – the main form of energy on

the island is solar power, which runs our

bucket showers. Torches are wind-up and

the loos are compost drop.

Each carefully made and set out

private tent area features a locally carved bed (forget

pesky rocks sticking up under ground sheets), fl oor mats,

reed-walled showers and hand-stitched hammocks, all of

which have been lovingly made with sustainable materials

by local hands. Even more charmingly, the tents are

Malawi > Eco-SAFARI

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>>

FAST FACTSWHEN TO GO The dry season is the best for spotting game and lasts from May to mid-November. ACCOMMODATION Malawi has a selection of green hotels in Lilongwe, and a good range of eco-lodges, to provide sustainable bases for exploring the country’s nature and wildlife.CURRENCY £1 = MWK250 (Malawian Kwacha)SEE malawitourism.com; lakeofstars.org; malawianstyle.com; wilderness-safaris.com

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DESTINATIONS AFRICA

built into a second, smaller bouldered outcrop that’s

joined to the main island via a twinkling walkway of solar-

powered fairy lights.

Chill-out timeThe key to Mumbo, I quickly discover, is to unplug yourself

from the everyday. I spend the fi rst morning chasing

iridescent blue crabs and fuchsia-coloured cichlid fi sh

around the rocky shallows of Mumbo’s main beach.

My submerged squeals are lost on the other guests, all

thankfully too preoccupied in their own gleeful aquatic

discoveries. It’s not just fi sh that vie for your attention

either; dainty pied kingfi sher perch on low-hanging

branches, which are accessorised by acid-green vine

snakes. Meanwhile, Cape Claw otters fl op in and out of

the heat while giant, 1.2m-long monitor lizards shuffl e

surreptitiously into the camp’s chill-out lounge.

Forest funOne afternoon we take a forest walk up to a famed

sunset lookout and breathe in the fragrance of fi g trees,

thickening the air with top notes of fructose. As dusk

beckons I speed back for freezing local beer from the

camp’s stripped-back bar. Swigging the brew from the

soporifi c comfort of my hammock, I gaze upon the

hundreds of lantern-lit fi shermen’s boats that wink at me

through night’s blanket. I understand all too well why

David Livingstone christened this place the Lake Of Stars

when he fi rst visited in the 1800s.

Going greenMalawi’s eco merits don’t end on Mumbo. After

(begrudgingly) bidding adieu to my million-star hammock,

I kayak back to Cape Maclear and pick the brains of

a local tour guide and founder of Malawian Style, Mike

Varndell, on other guilt-free delights to be enjoyed in

Malawi. A specialist in small, sustainable experiences for

grown-up backpackers, Varndell suggests Mt Mulanje –

“an undiscovered natural wonder that offers tiered rock

pools, challenging hiking and rock climbing through one

of the highest isolated granite inselbergs on the planet”.

The 900m hike can be completed in two days, with an

overnight stop in a scenic mountain chalet.

Animal magicTo see some impressive wildlife, opt for pedals on the high

elevation grasslands that comprise the famed Nyika

Plateau. With parts of the park crossing into northern

Zambia, the plateau forms part of Malawi’s oldest national

park and plays host to the largest concentration of

leopards in central Africa. The region makes for a rewarding

thigh-burn some 2000 metres above sea level on possibly the

smoothest trails in Malawi. Besides breathtaking views of

the thickly forested valley below, Nyika’s less-frequented

lower region offers an additional reward: antelope,

elephant, rhino and plentiful zebra are all regularly

spotted grazing on the expansive grasslands.

Another spot Vandell cites as essential is Liwonde

National Park, where Mvuu Lodge, a sustainable nature Phot

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LAKE OF STARS FESTIVAL

Lake Of Stars has a hell of a reputation to live up to. Dubbed by Q Magazine as the “best festival in the world”, the four-day international festival of the arts has hosted acts including The Noisettes, Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly, Beverley Knight, MistaJam, Goldierocks, Foals and Baio from the mighty Vampire Weekend.

Alongside the big acts, revellers are treated to sets from local performers and DJs. The event attracts people from all around the world who are keen to party with the locals, all to a soundtrack of Malawian dub, reggae, ska, hip hop, funk and soul.

The festival, which was inspired by Live Aid, WOMAD and Glastonbury, aims to use the arts to boost Malawi’s economy and get exposure for the country as a tourist destination. And over the eight years since its inception, more and more music lovers have come to join the party (last year there were 3800 attendees) at the Sunbird Nkopola Lodge on the palm-fringed shores of Mangochi, at the southern tip of Lake Malawi.

The festival, which is run almost entirely by volunteers, generated more than £620,000 for Malawi’s economy in 2010. But as well as helping existing companies, £1 from every ticket goes to the MicroLoan Foundation, which helps people set up small, self-sustainable businesses.

There’s also a Lake of Stars outreach programme which puts on a series of musical, educational and sporting events for the local community.

Tickets cost £85 and the festival takes place every October. See: lakeofstars.org

» Jennifer Carr travelled with Malawian Style and Mvuu Camp. Malawian Style offers a range of safaris, from kayaking and sailing to hiking and biking. See the malawianstyle.com for prices

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Malawi > Eco-SAFARI

camp, teeters on a bend of the crocodile-infested Shire

River in the Rift Valley. The camp successfully bridges the

divide between Malawian communities and existing

wildlife. Hundreds of locals benefi t from employment at

the camp and there are obvious signs of reforestation as

we approach the main heart of the lodge. After a quick

run-through on camp protocol – “the bongo in your room

is to bang if you need escorting through the camp after

dark” – we set off on a sunset cruise in one of the camp’s

eco-friendly four-stroke engine boats to explore the river.

We encounter umpteen hippo, waterbuck, birdlife,

elephants and river crocodiles during the two-hour cruise.

It’s hard to be anything but awed. As my eyes adjust to

the growing twilight, the sun’s alchemy fl ecking the river

with a burnt, blushing rose gold, I’m reminded yet again

that some of the best experiences in travel need no

human intervention. n

Low-hanging branches are accessorised by acid-green

vine snakes

27tntmagazine.com/destinations

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TNT_DESTINATIONS.indd 28TNT_DESTINATIONS.indd 28 25/1/12 12:13:0425/1/12 12:13:04

Page 29: Destinations Africa

The Garden Route is an impossibly scenic and inspirational stretch of south-east Cape coastline

– 200km in length and bordered on one side by the Tsitsikamma and Outeniqua mountains, and the Indian Ocean on the other. It’s so named because its vegetated state (think colour-drenched fl ora and fauna and lush lagoons and lakes) contrasts so dramatically with the country’s arid interior.

But this is just part of the area’s appeal. For those with

something of the daredevil about them, who enjoy facing

their mortality in the most adrenaline-charged of manners,

the Garden Route offers many unique ways in which to

counterbalance the tranquillity of the natural environment

with some adventurous activities.

1 Jumping into oblivionFor anyone with nerves of steel, the world’s highest, biggest,

most badass bungee jump awaits – 216m off the Bloukrantz

Bridge near Plettenberg Bay. If that’s not enough, then

there is an alternative option – jumping out of one of

GARDEN ROUTE > TOP 5

29tntmagazine.com/destinations

>>

Get face-to-face with Jaws

Best of the Garden Route Cage dive with sharks, slug the country’s best port and explore underground, all in one whirlwind trip. There’s a reason South Africa’s Route 66 is so popular ... WORDS ALASDAIR MORTON

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DESTINATIONS AFRICA

Surf in the Indian Ocean

Cape Town’s cable cars high above Table Mountain.

But the ultimate way to see the sights is to skydive.

From the vantage point of 10,000 feet above, experience

a 30-second freefall followed by a fi ve-minute glide to the

ground. The scenic Route coast to the south of Port Elizabeth

is the perfect backdrop over which to take the plunge.

See: gardenroute.co.za

2 CalitzdorpA small town located in the heart of the Klein Karoo region,

Calitzdorp is a quaint place to visit. Apart from its quirksome

charm, it also has something more tangible going for it – it’s

the port capital of the country.

Known as such because of the quality of the port

made in this region, it is a must-visit for anyone looking to

sample the local fortifi ed produce.

See: calitzdorp.co.za

3 Shark divingComing face-to-face with the rows and rows of cerrated

teeth that belong to one of this planet’s deadliest

predators is what the shark diving experience is all about.

The waters off the Route are home to one of the largest

populations of great whites anywhere, making it the

perfect place to get up close and personal with this

fearsome creature.

See: sharkwatchsa.com

4 OudtshoornThe Garden Route has scenery to die for, but the town of

Oudtshoorn is known for a particular kind of ‘underground’

appeal. The subterranean limestone caverns of the Cango

Caves offer a glimpse of a bewitching below-surface

world, where time and water have eroded the rock into

truly fantastic forms.

The region is also home to no fewer than 400 ostrich

farms. Equally impressive – but in a very different way.

See: oudtshoorninfo.com

5 Surfi ngWith some of the world’s most exquisite beaches and

waves, surfi ng – whether you’re a seasoned pro or a

wobbly kneed newcomer – is a pursuit this part of the

country is particularly well suited for.

The waters of the Indian Ocean boast the perfect

conditions to paddle out into, so wetsuit up and grab a

board (and if you’re a newcomer, an instructor too). Sea

kayaking’s an alternative for the balance-challenged.

See: gardenrouteadventures.com/surfi ng n

GETTING THEREFlights from London

Gatwick to Cape Town, via Istanbul, start around £505 return with Turkish Airlines. (turkishairlines.com)

SOUTH AFRICA

CAPE TOWN

Port Elizabeth

INDIAN OCEAN

Oudrtshoorn

Go underground

Visit the port capital

Phot

os: W

hite

Sha

rk D

iving

Com

pany

, Sou

th A

frica

Tou

rism

, Thi

nkst

ock

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Page 31: Destinations Africa

31tntmagazine.com/destinations

WELCOME TO CAPE TOWN

Camping, dorm, private and en-suite accommodation.

BOOST YOUR GREEN KARMA AT GREEN ELEPHANT BACKPACKERS

57 Milton Road, Observatory+27-21-4486359 www.greenelephant.co.za

• Introductory Tandem Skydive

• Accelerated Freefall Training

• Static Line Training• All discipline Sports Skydiving• Freefall and Parachute Coaching• Aerial Photography• Bespoke Merchandise• Corporate Team Building Events• Personalised Engagement / Birthday

& Bucket List Packages

EXTREME SKYDIVE PACKAGE Not for the faint at heart. This is adventure stunt production – take 1!! You are trained to do a roll exit forwards or backwards at high velocity and then pull off some high G turns before opening your parachute. Under canopy your instructor will then let you take the reins and your rollercoaster ride begins.

TANDEM SKYDIVE MEDIA PACKAGE Join us for an exhilarating 20 minute plane ride to 10,500ft where you will exit the plane and experience 35 seconds of freefall. Your tandem instructor will then open the parachute and together you will fl oat gently back down to terra fi rma. We will capture every moment on digital video and edit your production with funky soundtracks. We will also take 100 + wide angle stills and add that to your cart. Remember to smile and wave…

www.skydivepe.comT +27 73 267 [email protected]

tntmagazine.com/tefl

Perfect for readers looking to: ‹ Combine travel and work ‹ Teach during their gap year

‹ Have a career change ‹ Work part-time with flexible hours

} There are many job opportunities worldwide to teach English to children, teenagers or adults.

} You could be in Eastern Europe, Italy, Spain, Costa Rica or Japan teaching English in a classroom,privately one-to-one, or even online.

*Teaching English as a Foreign Language

For further info or to book your place see: Courses conducted by

International TEFL Training

Teach EnglishCombine travel & work

Weekend Intensive TEFL CourseLanguage School

ONLY £150 (normally

£200)

DATE 11-12 Feb, 2012

TIME 9am - 6pm

VENUE Holland Park YHAHolland House, Holland Walk Kensington W8 7QU

High St Kensington or Holland Park

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Page 32: Destinations Africa

NEW!

trips for 18 to 30 somethings

AfricaBig Five

Topdeck’s

20 amazing itineraries

ranging from 7 to 58 days

1

Overland travel by fully equipped

safari trucks including lockers, power points and on-board freezer

2Small group

sizes and EVERYONE is aged 18 to 39

3Wake up

amongst the wildlife with

National Park stays across

Africa

4Comfy camping

in spacious 2-person dome tents including

thick foam mattresses

5

www.topdeck.travel/africa

BrandNEW

Itinerariesfor 2012/13!

CALL US 0845 257 5211

AFRICA 2012/13

BROCHUREOUT NOW!

www.topdeck.travel/brochure-request

TNT_DESTINATIONS.indd 32TNT_DESTINATIONS.indd 32 25/1/12 12:13:0825/1/12 12:13:08