Consumer Aspirations, Claims Investigations, and Product Evaluations

Birnur K. Aral, PhD

Good Housekeeping Research Institute

Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference 2014 London, UK

June 3-4 2014

Good Housekeeping - Founded in 1885

Good Housekeeping Research Institute - Established in 1900

Our Roll of Honor

-The New York Times

“ There is a kind of assurance that buying your ring at Tiffany inures you from bad marital juju, as if the union were protected by the Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval.

”

An American Icon

Tremendous Influence

Great Deal of Influence

Some Influence

92%

41%

34%

17%

85%

22%

33%

30%

79%

14%

29%

36%

76%

24%

28%

24%

66%

13%

22%

31%

SOURCE: Fairfield Research, July 2011

66%

16%

23%

27%

64%

13%

26%

25%

47%

6%

14%

27%

43%

4%

12%

27%

47%

4%

11%

25%

37%

4%

9%

24%

Seal Emblem Recognition

Health, Beauty, and Environmental Sciences Lab Product Categories

• Beauty Products • OTC drugs, dietary supplements • Water filtration devices • Insecticides, pesticides • Pet food

Consumer Advocacy • “Is It Safe to Heat Food in Plastic?” • “Keratin Hair Treatments: Do they

contain formaldehyde?” • “Is Your Tap Water Safe?” – Partnered

with U. of Arizona and U. of Nebraska Our Reach

• 20 million magazine readers • 4.5million unique visitors to

goodhousekeeping.com • Product Reviews Channel • Inside the Institute Blog

• 157K unique visitors a month • 7 Years Younger best-selling books • National and local TV, radio,

newspaper interviews

Instrumentation • Climatology Chamber • Visia Complexion Analyzer-Canfield • Corneometer- Courage-Khazaka • Cutometer- Courage-Khazaka MPA 580 • TEWL-cyberDERM RG-1-Evaporimeter • Chromameter-Minolta CR-310 • Wash Station-Custom design • Mechanical Tester-Instron Model 5944 with

TRI’s Comb attachment • Shine Cylinder-Custom design Consumer Panel

• Survey Monkey Survey Analytics • Panel Size: 4000+

• 85% Female • On-Site Testers: 350+

• 100+ within Hearst Tower • At least 22 testers enrolled per product

Methodology

Launched in 2010 • AA Skin Categories

• Day creams with SPF • Night creams • Eye creams • Serums • Age-spot treatments • Peels • Instant wrinkle smoothers • Firming Creams • Lip treatments • Hand Creams • Sunscreens • Body Lotions

• AA Hair • AA Makeup Categories

• Foundations • Primers • Concealers • Lipsticks • Plumpers

• 2,478 Female testers age 35 or older • Average age: 49

• Products Screened: 1083 • Advisory boards

• Top dermatologists • Top makeup artists

• Products Tested: 271 • Consumer questionnaires tallied: 5,778 • Visia before-and-after pictures: 12,337 • Corneometer data points: 20,820 • Cutometer data points: 11,696 • Products Awarded: 69 • Winners: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/product-reviews/

The Story In Numbers

Topicals do have limitations… but you can get good results…

62 year old subject after 8 weeks of daily use of drugstore brand day moisturizer with SPF 30 containing retinol

At times you can get striking results…

80 year old subject after 8 weeks of twice daily use of drugstore brand serum with pro-retinol

• Price doesn’t always correlate with performance • Boots No7 Protect and Perfect Serum ($21/1 oz)

• Gold in 2010 • La Prairie Cellular Power Charge Night Cream ($475/1.35 oz)

• Gold in 2013 • Facial Moisturizers

• With SPF 30 (2013) less moisturizing than those with SPF 15 • SPF 30- ~6.5% at 6 hrs. • SPF15- ~19% at 6 hrs.

• Night creams tested in 2013 in two categories • w/ and w/o retinol performed similarly in the lab and with consumers • Products w/retinol more potent but not tolerated as well

• panelists’ skipping 1-3 days between use • Anti-ageing makeup

• Were skeptical at first but • Moisturizing and/or firming foundations and concealers • No significant improvements in wrinkles

• Fragrance: Very polarizing- Have to get it right! • Categories we saw improvements from 2010 to 2013

• Peels: Pad applicators • Instant wrinkle smoothers: More visible improvements

• Serums: Emergence of dropper applicators in 2013 : Not a fan!

Some General Observations

Sun Protection - Best Action Against Skin’s Ageing • Results from our latest Sunscreen Test

• 17 Broad Spectrum SPF 50 products with 80 min water-resistance • Best sellers as per each brand • 9 Lotions + 6 aerosols+1 gel+ 1milk • 14 chemical sunscreens + 3 mineral/physical sunscreens

• Field test in Summer 2013 + stain testing in the Lab • Each product distributed to minimum of 22 testers

• 15-22 Returned per product • N=332

• In 41 states • Ages 18 and above • ~5% of tester pool was male • They used it at least twice while outdoors in the sun

• 66% exercised outdoors such as jogging and biking • 52% went to the pool or swam • 37% went to the beach • 24% were involved in other activities, which included

yard work/gardening, playing tennis, etc. • 16% went boating/sailing

• Consumers generally satisfied with the sunscreen category

• All scored excellent for preventing from sunburn and quite well for water resistance.

• Consumer Satisfaction #1-Chemical sunscreens –non-aerosols #2-Mineral sunscreens #3-Chemical sunscreens - aerosols

• Low in fragrance, texture, and irritation/stinging attributes

• Low in being oily/greasy/slippery and leaving a filmy residue

• Did not score higher for ease of application • Stain Testing performance

1- Mineral sunscreens 2- Chemical sunscreens – non-aerosols 3- Chemical sunscreens - aerosols

General Results

Ease of Use + Performance Predictor variables (12) 1. This product was easy to apply to my body. 2. This product had a pleasant fragrance. 3. I liked the texture of this product. 4. The product absorbed well into my skin. 5. This product did not leave a filmy residue on my skin. 6. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation. 7. This product did not stain or rub off on clothing, swimsuit, towel,

furniture, etc. 8. This product did not feel tacky on my skin 9. This product did not feel greasy/oily/slippery on my skin. 10.This product didn’t make my skin feel dry. 11.This product resisted water well. 12. I didn’t get sunburn during the times I used this product.

Satisfaction Dependent/criterion variable (1) 1. Overall, I was satisfied with the product to continue using it.

Open-ended • Likes • Dislikes • Other Comments

SPSS Analysis- Linear Regression

Most Important Attributes That Drive Consumers

• First Zero-order correlations of all 12 variables was carried out then a stepwise multiple regression was conducted

• R2= 0.67 1. I like the texture of this product : 0.376 2. This product was easy to apply to my body: 0.240 3. This product absorbed well into my skin: 0.222 4. This product did not stain or rub off on clothing, swimsuit, towel,

furniture, etc.: 0.185 5. This product had a pleasant fragrance: 0.177 6. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation: 0.113

• Text analysis feature of Survey Monkey used to analyze comments for “Likes”

1. Easy to apply/Easily/Application 2. Greasy/ Not oily/Texture 3. Smell/Fragrance 4. Protected/Burn 5. Absorbed

What Sways Consumers’ Decision Negatively • Looked at outliers in our data where a consumer’s overall

satisfaction behaved in an unpredictable way • A larger data set is ideal • When disliked following were among those that swayed

consumers’ overall satisfaction negatively. 1. This product had a pleasant fragrance. 2. This product did not leave a filmy residue. 3. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation. 4. This product did not feel drying

• The text analysis feature of the Survey Monkey was utilized

to analyze open-ended consumers’ “Dislikes” 1. Smell/Scent/Fragrance/Odor 2. Greasy 3. White/Residue

Do you specifically look for beauty products with anti-ageing benefits?

0.9

0.1

0%

20%

40%

60%

80%

100%

Yes No

• Understanding consumers habits and unmet needs in AA Skin Care

• Polled ~1,200 female US consumers in March 2014

• Majority of panel testing anti-ageing products for us for the last 5 years

• Age range 22 to 83 with average at 48

• 86.5% Caucasian, 4.7% Hispanic, 3.9% Asian, 3.2% African American

State of Anti-Ageing Skin care - Consumer Insights

Since what age have you been using skin care products with anti-ageing claims?

0.02

0.16

0.35 0.33

0.14

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

35%

40%

Since myteen years

Since mytwenties

Since mythirties

Since myforties

Since myfifties

What is the one anti-ageing product type that you have seen results with and can’t live without?

0.03

0.24

0.1

0.17

0.14

0.01 0.01

0.15

0.01

0.1

0.03

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

Anti-agingFacial

Cleanser

Anti-agingDay

Moisturizer

FacialSunscreen

Anti-agingNight Cream

Anti-agingSerum

Anti-agingMask

Anti-agingPeel

Anti-agingEye Cream

Anti-agingNeck Cream

N/A Other(Pleasespecify)

If you use a daily facial sunscreen what SPF do you use?

Less than SPF 15 2%

SPF 15 41%

SPF 30 39%

SPF 45 4%

SPF 50 or higher 6%

I don't know the SPF of

the product I use. 4%

Other (Please describe)

4%

Do you use sunscreen protection on your face?

Yes: 90%

No: 10%

Is there a specific area of concern on your face or body that are not addressed sufficiently with any of the skin care products you have tried?

0.08 0.08

0.1 0.09 0.09

0.07

0.1 0.1

0.04

0.12

0.05 0.06

0.01 0.02

0%

2%

4%

6%

8%

10%

12%

14%

Have you had any of the following professional procedures?

7% 12%

6% 3% 4%

1% 1%

61% 4%

Chemical PeelsMicrodermabrasion

BotoxFillers

LasersUltrasound Therapy

Radio Frequency TreatmentsN/A

Other. Please specify which treatments you have had…

If you never had any of the following professional procedures in the past, which one will you consider in the near future?

11%

15%

8%

9%

10%

8%

6%

10%

20%

3%

Chemical Peels

Microdermabrasion

Botox

Fillers

Lasers

Ultrasound Therapy

Radio Frequency Treatments

Will never get any such treatments

Don't know enough about these to have an opinion.

Other. Please specify which other treatments you would consider…

Do you think the term "anti-ageing" has a negative connotation?

Yes: 12%

No: 88 %

Other terms to be used instead of “anti-ageing”?

16% 14%

10% 12%

14% 11%

4% 5%

7% 2%

4% 2 %

RejuvenatingRenewing

RegeneratingRestoring

RefreshingReviving

Age-reversingAge-fightingAge-defying

Age-preventingAge-delaying

Other. Please specify the other terms you…

Average Age: 48 Age Range: 23-83

Miriam Arond, Director, Good Housekeeping Research Institute Health, Beauty, and Environmental

Sciences Lab Mary Clarke, Senior Product Analyst Sabina Burdzovic, Chemist Megan Inayoshi, Product Analyst Olivia Torres, Freelancer

Dr. Steven Q. Wang, Head, Basking Ridge Dermatology Section; Director of Dermatologic Surgery and Dermatology, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center

Home Appliance and Cleaning Products Lab Carolyn Forte, Director Lexie Sachs, Product Analyst