Download - Construction Jackets

Ann Taylor Ann Taylor Loft

Ann Taylor Factory Stores

Construction Guidelines

JACKETS

Lined

Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines

Jackets - Lined 2 November 2009

TABLE of CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 4

CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS: ............................................................................................................................................... 4

STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS - LINED JACKET: .................................................................................................................................... 4

STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-27) ........................................................................................................ 4

FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES ......................................................................................................................................................... 5 Fusible with Floating Canvas Chest Piece: .............................................................................................................................................. 5 Taping for Floating Canvas Chest Piece: ................................................................................................................................................. 7 Taping for Floating Canvas with “Felt on Canvas” Chest Piece: ............................................................................................................. 8 Fusible with Fused Chest Piece: ............................................................................................................................................................. 9 Taping for Fused Chest Piece: .............................................................................................................................................................. 10

STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKETS: ..................................................................................................... 11 General Seams: ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 11 Panel Seam – (with ease at bust area) .................................................................................................................................................. 11 Shoulder Seam ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 12 Princess Seam – Round Shape / Angled ............................................................................................................................................... 12 Sleeve Ease: .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 13 Armhole ................................................................................................................................................................................................. 13 Collar (Banana Stand Top & Under Collar); 2 Pc Under Collar ................................................................................................................ 14 Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); with Faux Stand Stitch ....................................................................................................... 15 Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc Under Collar); No Faux Stand Stitch ......................................................................................................... 15 Lapel / Collar & Neck Join Seam ........................................................................................................................................................... 16 Edge Seams: ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 16

LEATHER SEAMING ................................................................................................................................................................................. 17 Lockstitch – Glued Open Press ............................................................................................................................................................. 17 Lockstitch – Glued Pressed Closed ....................................................................................................................................................... 17

SWEEP VENT – CLOSED; BLOCKED HEM: ............................................................................................................................................. 18

2-PIECE SLEEVE W/ CLOSED VENT ........................................................................................................................................................ 19

SHOULDER PAD & SLEEVE HEAD SETTINGS: ....................................................................................................................................... 20

SHOULDER PAD / LINING ATTACHMENT: .............................................................................................................................................. 21

BODY LINING - BACK WITH KNIFE PLEAT AT CENTER BACK: ............................................................................................................... 22

ENVELOPE FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISH ................................................................................................................................. 22

EXCEPTION FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISHES: .......................................................................................................................... 23

LAPEL EDGE/FRONT EDGE FINISH: ........................................................................................................................................................ 23

LINING FINISHING:................................................................................................................................................................................... 24



LINING INSIDE POCKET - WEARER’S LEFT FRONT: ............................................................................................................................... 24

BUTTON SETTING .................................................................................................................................................................................... 25

DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING ............................................................................................................................................. 26

STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 28-52) ................................................................................................................. 28

DARTS: ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 28

COLLAR OPTIONS: .................................................................................................................................................................................. 29 Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Pc Under Collar (with and without Edgestitch at Stand seam) ............................................................. 29 Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Pc. Under Collar Collar w/o Stand (w/ and w/o Faux Stitch) ............................................................ 30 Collars with Full Stand: .......................................................................................................................................................................... 31 Collar w/ Full Stand................................................................................................................................................................................ 32 Mandarin Collar ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 32

FACING TYPES AND PIECED LAPELS: .................................................................................................................................................... 33

KISSING CLOSURES: ............................................................................................................................................................................... 36

SLIT W/ MITERED CORNER: .................................................................................................................................................................... 37

WELT POCKETS: ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 38

CHEST POCKET: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 39

BESOM POCKETS: ................................................................................................................................................................................... 40

VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET: ................................................................................................................................ 41

VERTICAL “ONSEAM” POCKET: ............................................................................................................................................................. 42

PATCH POCKETS: .................................................................................................................................................................................... 43

POCKET FLAP – WELT OR BESOM POCKET: ......................................................................................................................................... 44 POCKET FLAP – Patch pocket: ............................................................................................................................................................. 44

PLEATS: .................................................................................................................................................................................................... 45

BINDING & PIPING FINISHES: ................................................................................................................................................................. 46

BUTTONHOLES: ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 46

ZIPPER FRONT CLOSURES: .................................................................................................................................................................... 47

ZIPPER TERMS: ........................................................................................................................................................................................ 48

OTHER CLOSURES: ................................................................................................................................................................................. 49

BELT LOOPS: ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 50

DECORATIVE STITCHES: ......................................................................................................................................................................... 51



LINED JACKET

INTRODUCTION: The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology

and components. These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Loft and

Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products. The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts.

NOTE: See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.

CUTTING & MATCHING REQUIREMENTS:

SHADES: All shades are to be individually labeled.

PLAIDS & STRIPES (Vertical and Horizontal):

Plaid is to match around garment. Horizontal stripes are to match around garment. Sleeve is to match front at pitch point. Top Collar –Center Back to match body on vertical pattern, where practical. Front Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal patterns (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement. One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be “A”/”B” marker. Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package. NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package.

STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS - LINED JACKET: 1 1/2” Front Overlap (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). 2-Piece Sleeve (with or without Sleeve Vent; See Spec Package). NOTE: 1-Piece Sleeve only when style specific per Spec Package. Fully lined, closed bottom. NOTE: Body lining to have darts corresponding to body shell. Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: See Spec Package. Lining: 10-12 SPI Lockstitch or Chainstitch

STANDARD CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES SECTION (PAGES 6-27)



FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES • Interlining qualities and methods are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores Jackets & Coats. • This standard may be applied to Loft jackets & coats on a case-by-case basis. • All Interlinings, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. • Bias Cut Shell: Fusible must be cut on straight grain.

Fusible with Floating Canvas Chest Piece:



Set Canvas Chest Piece to Front Set Canvas w/ Felt Chest Piece to Front

Note: Set Canvas Chest Piece after Front is fused. Note: Set Canvas w/ Felt Chest Piece to Front after Front is fused.

Anchor Chest Piece at Shoulder w/ Stay Tape

Anchor Chest Piece to Front (Edge can be set w/ Blindstitched or Double Fuse Tape)

Anchor Chest Piece

Anchor Chest Piece at Atmhole (stitch inseam allowance)

Cut Canvas on Semi-bias

Anchor Chest Piece at Shoulder w/ Stay Tape

Anchor Chest Piece to Front (Edge can be set w/ Blindstitched or Double Fuse Tape)

Felt Applied to Canvas Chest Piece

Cut Felt 3/8" smaller than canvas

Cut Felt piece to finish 1" down from Shoulder

FELT

Set Felt to Canvas at center of Chest Piece

Remove Felt seam allowance at Armhole (2" down from Shoulder)

Anchor Chest Piece at Armhole (stitch in seam allowance)



TAPING GUIDELINES • Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores & Loft. • Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.

Taping for Floating Canvas Chest Piece:

CMW 2004

TP 3000

TP 6000

K 771

V 901* Charcoal available

Front Shoulder

Armhole TapeBack Neck Tape

ANN TAYLOR TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS (with Canvas)

Front Edge,Bridle

Canvas Floating Chest Piece

KUFNER PCC

Set Tape 1" down from shoulder seam

Set w/ Twill Tape on seam line

Pocket Backingii2610V 401

* Charcoal available

Set Twill Tape w/ 1" - 1 1/2" space at base of armhole seam allowance

B901* Black available

V901T-B27* Black available

3170

Note: Reference #s below are for White/Natural. For other colors, use corresponding Reference # for same quality.



TAPING GUIDELINES • Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores. • Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.

Taping for Floating Canvas with “Felt on Canvas” Chest Piece:

CMW 2004

TP 3000

TP 6000

K 771


Front Shoulder

Armhole TapeBack Neck Tape

ANN TAYLOR TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS (with "Felt on Canvas" Chest Piece)

Front Edge,Bridle

Canvas Floating Chest Piece

KUFNER PCC



Pocket Backing ii2610V 401* Charcoal available

Set Twill Tape w/ 1 1/4" space at base of armhole seam allowance


V901T-B27* Black available

3170


Felt Chest Piece V251

FELT

FELT

LOCATION



FUSIBLE INTERLINING GUIDELINES • Interlining qualities and methods are primary standards for LOFT and Ann Taylor Factory Stores Jackets & Coats. • This standard may be applied to Ann Taylor Stores jackets & coats on a case-by-case basis. • All Interlining, primary standard or otherwise, are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. • Bias Cut Shell: Fusible must be cut on straight grain.

Fusible with Fused Chest Piece:

ANN TAYLOR INTERLINING STANDARDS (no Canvas)

KUFNERLt.

PCC Med.

KUFNERMed.

V401* Charcoal available

B101* Charcoal available

Weight

Facings, Top Collar & Stand, Back Shoulder, Pocket, Flap, Hems

Front & Side BodyUnder CollarChest

ii2610

ii1020

V401* Charcoal available

R861* Charcoal available

Fused Chest Piece

Front

Fusible to finishabove hemline

PCCLt.

ii2610

ii1061

Back

Fusible to finishabove hemline

Front FacingTop Sleeve

CB UnderSleeveSide Panel

Under Collar


Add extra pc at curved edge for stable as needed.



TAPING GUIDELINES • Taping qualities are primary standards for Ann Taylor Stores & Loft. • Tape at CF may be eliminated on lighter weight fabrics in which case a staystitch or bias lining tape may be substituted.

Taping for Fused Chest Piece:


ANN TAYLOR TAPING & FUSING STANDARDS (no Canvas)

Set Twill Tape w/ 1 1/4" space at base of armhole seam allowance




Front Shoulder CMW 2004

Pocket Backing V 401* Charcoal available

ii2610

Front Edge,Bridle

Armhole Tape,Back Neck Tape

V901T-B27* Charcoal available

TP 3000


KUFNER

TP 6000

PCC



STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKETS:

Description

Seam

Allowance

Seam Type & Finish

General Seams:

• SIDES / PANELS • CENTER BACK • SLEEVE PANELS & SLEEVE

VENT See Spec Pkg. for: • Princess seam requirements. • Topstitched seam

requirements.

1/2” A1-0b Lockstitch; Raw Edge; Open Press

Lockstitch(underside)

Raw Edge

Lockstitch(topside)

Open Press • Lockstitch • Open Press (NOTE: If Topstitched, press to one side of seam. See Spec Pkg.)

Panel Seam – (with ease at

bust area)

1/2” – Panel

seam

NOTE: 3/8”

- Princess

seam

Ease

(Match Notch)

(Match Notch)

(Match Notch)

A1-12 Princess Seam Ease

Ease Front Princess:1) Pre-stitch front princess between notches with shirring stitch.2) Join seam.

• Lockstitch



STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES FOR LINED JACKET:

Description

Seam

Allowance

Seam Type & Finish

Shoulder Seam

1/2”

FrontBack

Ease at Back Shoulder between notches

(Match Notches)

1. Pre-stitch back shoulder between notches w/ shirring stitch.2. Back Shoulder must be eased into Front Shoulder.* Do not stretch Front Shoulder.

A1-13 Shoulder Seam (w/ ease)

• Lockstitch • Open Press

Princess Seam – Round

Shape / Angled

3/8”

A1-14a Princess-Round Shape

Fron

t Edg

e

* Pressed seam allowance open Or* Press toward topstitching

Inside of Garment

* Ease front panel at curve * Align front & side panel notches* Clip shaped curve as needed for smooth curve finish.

Inside of Garment

Fron

t Edg

e

* Press seam allowance open Or* Press toward topstitching Clip to 1/8"

from corner

A1-15a Princess; Angled/Seams

Notch at corner* If needed

• Lockstitch • Open press

OR press toward Topstitching




Description

Seam

Allowance

Seam Type & Finish

Sleeve Ease: NOTE: Ease stitch 1/16” – 1/8” from seam line

3/8”

A1-16 Sleeve Cap Ease

Ease Cap

Back Sleeve Cap

* Ease Sleeve Cap evenly * Sleeve Cap & Armhole notches aligned

• Ease /

Basting Stitch (except with auto-sleeve set machine)

Armhole Standard Armhole pressing – “Open press” at top of Armhole (unless indicated otherwise in Spec Pkg.)

3/8” A1-17a Jacket Armhole Seam -

Inside of Sleeve

Shoulder Seam Press open at top of Armhole

Press toward sleeve

(1 1/2" each side of shoulder seam)

Press Open at Top

A1-17b Jacket Armhole Seam -

Inside of Sleeve

Shoulder Seam

Press toward sleeve all around.

Press toward Sleeve• Lockstitch




Description

Seam

Allowance

Seam Type & Finish

Collar (Banana Stand Top &

Under Collar); 2 Pc Under

Collar See Spec Pkg.: • Collar sketch represents

construction only (not for collar / stand shape).

• Banana Stand seam with or without edgestitch.

• Collar edge with or without topstitching.

1/2”

Center Back

Seam

1/4” Stand

Join Seam

1/4”

Outer Edge

Outside of Under Collar

Outside of Top Collar

Bias Cut

Back Stitch

Inside of Top Collar

Inside of Under Collar

J2-7a Top & Under Collar w/Banana Stand w/ Edgestitch at Stand seam

Open Press + Edgestitch

Outside of Under Collar

Outside of Top Collar

Bias Cut

Back Stitch

Inside of Top Collar

Inside of Under CollarOpen Press

J2-7b Top & Under Collar w/Banana Stand No Edgestitch at Stand

• Lockstitch

• Open Press




Description

Seam

Allowance

Seam Type & Finish

Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc

Under Collar); with Faux

Stand Stitch See Spec Pkg.: • Collar sketch represents



1/2”

Center Back

Seam

1/4” Outer

Edge

Open Press

Outside View "Faux" Stand Stitch (Under Collar only)

J2-3a Collar - w/o Collar Stand; 2-Pieced Under Collar (w/faux stand stitch line)

Inside View

Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point

w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg

Bias Cut

Under Collar

Under Collar

Top Collar - Outside View

• Lockstitch • Open Press –

Center Back seam

Collar (1 Pc Top Collar; 2 Pc

Under Collar); No Faux

Stand Stitch See Spec Pkg.: • Collar sketch represents



1/2”

Center Back

Seam

1/4” Outer

Edge



J2-3b Collar - w/o Stand; 2-Piece Under Collar (no faux stand stitch)

Outside View

Inside View

Under Collar

Under Collar


Bias Cut

Open Press

• Lockstitch • Open Press –

Center Back seam




Description

Seam

Allowance

Seam Type & Finish

Lapel / Collar & Neck Join

Seam See Spec Pkg.: • Construction applies to Collars

w/ and w/o Banana stand. • Collar edge with or without

topstitching.

1/4”

* Attach inside Top Collar to Under Collar along Neck seam allowance to point 1" forward of Shoulder Seam

Inside Body & Top Collar

Open Press

Open Press

Inside Body & Under Collar

J3 Neck Facing / Join Seam - Inside View

Open Press

Open Press

Jacket Collar-Facing/Neck Seam

(Note: sketch references neck construction, not collar type/shape)• Lockstitch • Open Press

Edge Seams:

• Collar Edge • Lapel Edge • Front Edge • Pocket seams

1/4”

LockstitchRaw Edge

A1-0a Lockstitch; Raw Edge - (press to one side)

Lockstitch

• Lockstitch



LEATHER SEAMING Lockstitch – Glued Open Press Lockstitch – Glued Pressed Closed

A1-25 Lockstitch; Open Press & Glued

Raw Edge

Lockstitchjoin seam

Open Press andGlued

Seam Details

• Lockstitch • Pressed Open

& glued • 3/8” to 1/ 2”

seam allowance (depending on seam location)

Lockstitchjoin seam

Raw Edge

A1-26 Lockstitch;

Press to one sideand Glued

Seam Details • Lockstitch • Pressed to one

side & glued • 3/8” to 1/ 2”

seam allowance (depending on seam location)



SWEEP VENT – CLOSED; BLOCKED HEM:

Seam

Vent Edge

Interlining to finishabove hemline

Hemline

Wearer's Left Back

A13-a Sweep Vent

Seam allowance Shaped & Tapered to hold Vent

Inner Construction

Interlining

SeamLine

Clean Finish

Wearer's Right Wearer's Left

Seam

Seam

SeamLine

A13-b Sweep Inner Construction

(Under Extension)

Blocked Hem

Lining w/ 1/2" Curtain Pleat

Backstitch

Lini

ng

Seam

WaistA13-c Sweep Vent Finished - Inside of Lining

Ven

t Edg

e

Outside View

Ctr

Bac

k Se

am

Topstitch

A13-9 Sweep Vent-Closed; Blocked Hem Topstitched (at top of Vent)

Ven

t Edg

eOutside View

Top of Vent(no topstitch)

Ctr

Bac

k Se

am

A13-10 Sweep Vent-Closed; Blocked HemNo Topstitch (at top of Vent)



2-PIECE SLEEVE W/ CLOSED VENT NOTE: Not all styles have Sleeve Vent. See Spec Package:

Under Sleeve Top Sleeve

FusibleDo not trim Self

Mitered Seam line

Vent fold line

Sleeve Hem lineInterliningto finishaboveSleeve Hemline

Fusible

Sleeve Hem line

J5-1a Sleeve Vent - Fusible Inside/Pattern

Interliningto finishaboveSleeve Hemline

Notch whenrequired

Mitered Facing

J5-1b Sleeve Hem view w/o Lining

Vent Sewn

Inside Wearer's Left Sleeve

Mitered Facing

NOTE: Sleeve Hem cornerseam allowance is not trimed (for sleeve length alteration)

J5-1c Vent - Mitered Seam

Non-FunctionalButtonhole

Vent stitch line

Sleeve Seam

(before Lining set)

Lining

J5-1d Inside View -

1/2" Curtain Pleat

Wearer's Left Sleeve

Mitered Facing

Wearer's Left Sleeve - Seamed Vent

J5-1e Sleeve Vent - Finished

Vent Open Edge(See spec pkgfor Vent Ht.)

* See Spec Pkg for Button / Buttonhole Detail

Front Sleeve



SHOULDER PAD & SLEEVE HEAD SETTINGS: • Shoulder Pad & Sleeve Head quality and shape as per Ann Taylor Stores / LOFT standards set by Technical Design. • Shoulder Pad Placement from seam as indicated on Sloper or Spec Pkg. • Sleeve Head required for all jackets with Shoulder Pads unless otherwise specified in Spec Package. Set With Lockstitch Along Armhole Seam: Set With Hand-Tack At Armhole: Sleeve Head Setting:

Inside of Front

Thread Tack

J8-1a Shoulder Pad Setting - w/ Thread Tack

Thread Tack

Shoulder PadThread Tack

Thread Tackto the shoulder seam allowance

*See Spec Pkg for Shoulder Pad Placement from Seam Edge.

J8-1b Shoulder Pad Setting - w/Lockstitch

Shoulder Pad

Set 1 1/4" from end of Pad

Inside of Front

Basting Lockstitch; Stitch over Armhole seam

Thread Tackto the shoulder seam allowance

Set 1 1/4" from end of Pad


J8-2 Sleeve Head Setting

Inside of Side Panel

Inside of Front

Insi

de o

f Sle

eve

Shoulder Seam

Inside of Back

Sleeve Head



SHOULDER PAD / LINING ATTACHMENT: • Attachment method applies to Shoulder Pads set with Lockstitch or with Thread-tack. Attached With Lining Strip: Attached With Thread tack:

Shoulder

Pad

Shoulder Pad


Inside of Front Shell

LINING STRIP

Thread Tack

Inside of Facing

Inside of Lining

Inside of Sleeve Lining

Inside of Lining

* Double Layer (1/2" x 1")* Attach at Natural Side Seam

J8-3a Lining attached at Armhole / Shoulder w/Lining Strip

*Double Layer*1/2" x 1/2"


Lining Strip

Inside of Front Shell


Inside of Lining

J8-3b Lining attached at Armhole / Shoulder w/ Thread Tack & Lining Strip

Should

er Pad

Inside of Sleeve Lining

Shoulder Pad

Thread Tack

Inside of Lining

Inside of Facing

LINING STRIP* Double Layer (1/2" x 1")* Attach at Natural Side Seam




BODY LINING - BACK WITH KNIFE PLEAT AT CENTER BACK: NOTE: Back Facing eliminated only when confirmed for exception cases and indicated with sketch in Spec Package. Lining Center Back Seam -

A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat

CB Seam

Taper pleat to 0" at waist

Knife Pleat

J9-1a Lining CB Seam Pleat -

Neck Seam

Facing

w/ Back Neck Facing

* Pleat opening at Facing seam* 1/2" deep* Press to wearer's right

Taper pleat to 0" at waist

Knife Pleat

Seam

CB Seam

J9-1b Lining CB Seam Pleat - No Back Neck Facing

CB Seam

* Pleat opening 2" down from Neck seam* 1/2" deep* Press to wearer's right

ENVELOPE FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISH EXCEPTIONS: • Hem with attached facing • Topstitched Hem

J9-3a Front Hem/Facing Envelope Finish

Lining

1/2" Curtain Pleat

Lining

1/2" Curtain Pleat

Prior to Facing / Lining seamed at Hem.

Shell

FacingLining

Cross-Sectionw/ Lining attached

Hem Finish w/ Curtain Pleat



EXCEPTION FRONT HEM / FRONT FACING FINISHES:

Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Facing Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Topstitched

Lining

1/2" Curtain Pleat

J9-3b Front Facing Finish w/ Hem Facing


Inside of Lining

Inside of Hem Facing

Inside of Body Facing

Backstitch

Lining

1/2" Curtain Pleat

J9-3c Front Facing Finish w/ Front & Hem Topstitched

FacingLining


Topstitch * See Spec Pkg.

Open Press Seam Allowance

LAPEL EDGE/FRONT EDGE FINISH: J4-2a Lapel/ Front Edge Finish

Front Facing Backstitch

Backstitch Under Lapel

Lining

Front Facing

2" up from Top Buttonhole

1" below Top Buttonhole

Note: Front edge may not have "backstitch" when front edge is topstitched.

J4-2b Jacket Attached Facing

Backstitch

Inside View

Front Edge Seam

"Wearer's Right" Front Facing

Straight Front Edge w/ "shaped" Facing


Backstitch

J4-2c Jacket Attached Facing


"Wearer's Right" Front Facing

Front Edge Seam

Inside View

Straight Front Edge w/ "shaped" Facing



LINING FINISHING:

FrontLining

Front Facing

Facing

BackLining

Inside Garment

Internal Tack Internal Tack 1/2" Curtain Pleat

Internal Tack

Close Lining at* Front panel seam* Wearer's Left Sleeve

J9-4a Lining Finishing w/ 2-Piece Sleeve

FrontLining

Front Facing

Facing

BackLining

Inside Garment

Internal Tack

Internal Tack1/2" Curtain Pleat

Internal Tack

Close Liningat wearer's Left Sleeve

J9-4b Lining Finishing w/ 1-Piece Sleeve

BlindstitchSleeve Hem

NOTE: If blindstitch will damage fabric, use 2 pcs of Fusible Tape w/ Blindstitch in between tape layers

LINING INSIDE POCKET - WEARER’S LEFT FRONT: NOTE: Inside Pocket is not standard for all styles. See Spec Pkg.

J9-2 Lining Chest Pocket

Facing

Lining

Inner View

FacingLining

Fusible

Inside Wearer's Left Front

Besom Pocket - See Spec Pkg for Pocket Placement

Baste closed w/ 1/2" open at each end



BUTTON SETTING • Set buttons with “Locking” stitch. • Setting Placement: • 2-Hole Button set with 2 holes aligned with Buttonhole. • 4-Hole Button with parallel stitch, unless otherwise specified. • Logo buttons to be set with Logo in same direction. • Buttons with self-shank do not require Thread Shank. • Double Breasted Inside Button Type – 2-Hole: Flat (no rim); DTM. • Leather and Suede - Stay button for all “functional” buttons.

Front Closure Button Setting:

Thread Shankw/ Wrap

J10-1a Button Setting - Parallel Stitch

* Parallel Stitch* Set Button w/ lockstitch machine

w/ Functional Buttonholes

w/ Functional ButtonholesJ10-1b Button Setting - "X" Stitch

* "X" Stitch* Set Button w/ lockstitch machine

Thread Shankw/ Wrap

w/ Functional ButtonholesJ10-1c Button Setting - "X" Stitch

* "X" Stitch

* Thread Shank w/ Wrap

* "X" Stitch

Sleeve Vents W/Non-Functional Button Setting:

J10-2a Sleeve Vent Button Setting w/ Non-Functional Buttonholes - Parallel Stitch

Wearer's Left Sleeve Vent

* Parallel Stitch* Button set through Shell layers only. (Not set to Lining)

* See Spec Pkg for Button / Buttonholes Placement

Fron

t Vie

w

* "X" Stitch* Button set through Shell layers only. (Not set to Lining)

Fron

t Vie

w

J10-2b Sleeve Vent Button Setting w/ Non-Functional Buttonholes - "X" Stitch

* See Spec Pkg for Button / Buttonholes Placement

Wearer's Left Sleeve Vent



DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING HANDTACKING

Step 1 To form initial knot the thread must passes through self fabric or yarn

Step 2 Circle the needle 2 times, then pull out the needle to form initial knot.

Step 3 Initial knot formed must be tied to the fabric or yarn Tail extending from knot must be trimmed to ¼”.

Step 4 Affix the embellishment to the body using same needle from initial knot on self fabric.

Step 5 Affix the embellishment by using 2 plies of thread with 2 passes through the fabric. Do not make the length of the passes more than ¼” long.

Step 6 After affixing the embellishment on the face side, pass the needle through to the inside for ending knot finishing in the same manner as step 1 and step 2.

MACHINE TACKING 1. If factory has adjusted the normal buttonhole machine into 2 hole stitching for tacking purposes, only “lockstitch” buttonhole machine can be used for Ann Taylor product. 2. If factory uses single lockstitch machine for tacking purposes appropriate and sufficient back stitches must be applied to secure 3. Bar tacking machine application is limited to heavier fabric. Please advise when using this application to Technical Designer or QA for approval.

BEAD AND SEQUIN CONSTRUCTION HAND TACKING 1. Initial knot must be tied up to fabric or yarn in designated position following design layout 2. At least 2 plies of thread with 2 pass of needle must be passed through the fabric or yarn for each tack point. 3. Ending knot must be added to secure each tacked position.

4. Floating thread in between in between tacking cannot exceed ¾” on wrong side of the fabric. Floating thread longer than ¾” is not acceptable.

5. For beading spacing longer than ¾” or all over beading, beading should be tacked separately to secure beads.

Initial Knot

Initial Knot Initial Knot

Rosette/embellishment

Self Fabric

Ending Knot



TACKING FINISH: Note: NO “X” Tack used if fabric surface will be damaged by tack.

Back Sweep Vent “X” Tack Slit “X” Tack

A13-11 Vent/ "X" Tack for Shipping

Lining

Outside Garment

"X" Tack for Shipping

Seam

Ven

t Edg

e

Lini

ng

Seam

Inside Garment

"X" Tack for Shipping

A14-15 Slit-"X" Tack

Peaked Lapel

J10-5 Peaked Lapel w/ Tack

Whip Tack (See Spec Pkg for tack placement)



STYLE SPECIFIC CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS (PAGES 28-52)

DARTS:

Stitch dartfromTopto

Bottom

A2-1 Waist Dart Open End - Sewing Direction

w/ Pocket

Stitch dartfromTopto

Bottom

w/o Pocket

*Note: Do Not Stretch Dart When Sewing

A2-1a Jacket Waist Dart - Single Point (Front / Back)

Press DartOpen

A2-2a Jacket Waist Dart - Double Points (Front / Back)

Press Darttoward Center Frt

A2-3a Jacket Bust Dart

Press Darttoward Hem

A2-4 French Dart

Press Darttoward Hem

A2-5 Lapel Dart - Straight Dart

Press DartOpen

A2-6 Lapel Dart - Shaped

Press DartOpen



COLLAR OPTIONS: NOTE: • Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. • Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. • See specification package. Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Pc Under Collar (with and without Edgestitch at Stand seam)

J2-1a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar Edgestitch at Stand seam

Under CollarBias Cut

Top Collar

Open Press


Inside View

J2-1a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar Edgestitch at Stand seam

Bias CutUnder Collar

Top Collar

Outside View

Edgestitch


Collar Edge: w/ or w/o Topstitch; See specification pkg

J2-1b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar No Topstitch at Stand seam

Inside View

Under Collar

Top Collar

Open Press; No Edgestitch

Bias Cut

Open Press

J2-1b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 2 Piece Under Collar No Topstitch at Stand seam

Under Collar Bias Cut



Top Collar

Outside View



COLLAR OPTIONS (continued): NOTE: • Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. • Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. • See specification package. Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Pc. Under Collar Collar w/o Stand (w/ and w/o Faux Stitch)

Bias Cut


Top Collar - Inside Open Press + Edgestitch

Top Collar - Outside

Under Collar - Outside


J2-2a Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Piece Under Collar w/ Topstitch


Bias Cut


Open Press; No Edgestitch

J2-2b Top Collar w/ Banana Stand; 1 Piece Under Collar No Topstitch

Top Collar - Inside

Top Collar - Outside

Under Collar - Outside

"Faux" Stand Stitch -(Under Collar only)

Bias Cut

J2-4a Collar w/o Stand; 1-Piece Under Collar (w/faux stand stitch line)

Under Collar


Outside View



Bias Cut

J2-4b Collar w/o Stand; 1-Piece Under Collar (w/ No faux stand stitch line)

Outside View

Under Collar





COLLAR OPTIONS (continued): NOTE: • Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. • Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. • See specification package.

Collars with Full Stand:

Bias Cut



Press toward Stand+ Edgestitch

J2-5a Collar w/ Full Stand; Open Press Top Collar/Stand w/ Edgestitch

Bias Cut

Top Collar

Under Collar

Edgestitch

Outside View

Edgestitch on stand

Inside View

Top Collar

Under Collar

Bias Cut

Press toward Stand:No TopstitchBack Stitch to 1"

from Collar Point

J2-5b Collar w/ Full Stand; No Topstitch at Stand seam

Press toward Stand:No Topstitch

Inside View

Bias Cut

Outside View

Top Collar

Under Collar

Top Collar

Under Collar



COLLAR OPTIONS (continued): NOTE: • Collar sketches are reference for construction only, not for Collar shape. • Collar Edge with or without Topstitching. • See specification package. Collar w/ Full Stand

Bias Cut


Top Collar

J2-5c Collar w/ Full Stand; Edgestitch / Topstitch Stand Seam

Press toward Stand

Press toward Stand

Edgestitch OR Topstitch* See Spec Pkg

Bias Cut

Outside View

Under Collar

Inside View

Top Collar

Under Collar

Edgestitch OR Topstitch* See Spec Pkg

Mandarin Collar

J2-6 Stand Collar/ Mandarin Collar

Top Collar

Inside Collar

Back Stitch (if no Topstitch)

(with or without Topstitch)



FACING TYPES AND PIECED LAPELS:

J4-1a 1-Piece Facing - Shaped to Shoulder

Lining

J4-1b Pieced Lapel & Facing

Lining

Front FacingPieced

Front

Pieced Facing

J4-1c "Split" Facing

Lining

Split FacingSeam

FrontFacing

FrontLapel Dart



HIDDEN PLACKETS:

J4-3a Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched

Outside ViewWearer's Right

Inside ViewWearer's RightFacing

Topstitch

Button Separator Inner Tack

Finshed View

Topstitch

Wearer's Right Facing Wearer's Right Front - Body

Button Separator/ Inner Tack between Buttonholes

LiningAttach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg):A) Topstitched Button Separator orB) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)

InteriorTack

J4-3b Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched

Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front)

Lining or Fabric layer

J4-4a Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Inside Blindstitch

Finished Wearer's Right - Body

Finished Wearer's Right Facing

Button SeparatorInner Tack

Finished View

Inner Layers Attached w/ Blindstich

Blindstitch

Wearer's Right Facing Wearer's Right Front - Body

Button Separator / Inner Tack between Buttonholes

Lining

Attach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg):A) Topstitched Button Separator orB) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)

InteriorTack

Interior Construction

Blindstitch

J4-4b Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Inside Blindstitch




HIDDEN PLACKETS (continued):

J4-5a Hidden Placket-Attached; set w/ Crackstitch

FinishedWearer's Right - Body

FinishedWearer's Right Facing

Button Separator Inner Tack

* Attached Placket * Set to Facing w/ Crackstitch

Lining

Inside View - Crackstitch

*Note: Placket may have Topstitch See spec pkg.

Finished View

Wearer's Right Facing

Button Separator/ Inner Tack between Buttonholes


Attach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg):A) Attached Button Separator orB) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)

InteriorTack

J4-5b Hidden Placket-Attached; Crackstitch

Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front)

Wearer's RightFront - Body

Inside View Weaerer's Right

Outside ViewWearer's Left

Interlining

Outside ViewWearer's Right

Wearer's Right Wearer's Left

J4-6 Top Applied Placket

Bottom of Placket

J4-7 Mock Hidden Placket

Outside View Wearer's Right

Step 1 Step 2Finished

Outside View Wearer's Left

Bottom of Placket

Wearer's Right - Step 1 Wearer's LeftWearer's Right - Step 2



KISSING CLOSURES:

J4-8a Kissing Front - w/ Frog Closure

Outside ViewWearer's Left

Note: See Spec Pkg for* Frog Type* Frog & Button Placement

Wearer's Left Front Inside Extension J4-8b Kissing Front - Right Front Loop; Wearer's Left Inside Extension

Outside View Wearer's Right Outside View

Wearer's LeftWearer's Left

Wearer's Right

Inside View

Note: See Spec Pkg for* Loop Type* Loop & Button Placement

Inside Placket

Wearer's RightOutside View

Wearer's LeftOutside View Wearer's Right

Wearer's Left

J4-8c Kissing Front - Self Fold Placket Right Front Loop;

Inside View


Wearer's Left Inside Extension

Outside View Wearer's Right

Outside View Wearer's Left Weaerr's

Left

J4-8d Kissing Front -Left Front Loop; Wearer's Right Front Inside Extension

Wearer's Right

Inside View




SLIT W/ MITERED CORNER:

Inside Garment

Lining LiningSe

am

Mitered Corner

A14-6 Slit w/Bendback Facing Mitered Corner - Lined

*See spec pkg for Hem Stitch

Outside Garment

Seam

A14-6a Slit - No Tack


SeamStitch-tack

Outside Garment

A14-6b Slit - Stitch Tack


Seam

Outside Garment

Bartack

A14-6c Slit - Bartack

Note:Note:



WELT POCKETS: Note: • Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. • Placement can be angled or horizontal. • Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. • See specification package.

Inside of Garment w/Facing


Tack to Princess seam allowance

Inside of Garment w/o Facing

J6-1 Welt Pocket - Angled; Inside View

J6-1a Welt Pocket - Angled w/o Topstitch

Outside of Garment

J6-1c Welt Pocket- Angled w/ Topstitch

Outside of Garment



Inside of Garment w/o Face

J6-1 Welt Pocket - Horizontal; Inside View


Outside of Garment

J6-1b Welt Pocket - Horizontal w/o Topstitch

Outside of Garment

J6-1d Welt Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch



CHEST POCKET: Note: • Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. • Pocket with or without Topstitch. See Specification Package.

J6-1e Chest Pocket

Outside of Garment Inside of Garment

3" @ center

Base closed w/ 1/2" open at each end



BESOM POCKETS: Note: • Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. • Placement can be angled or horizontal. • Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. • See specification package.




J6-3 Besom Pocket - Angled; Inside View


J6-3a Besom Pocket - Angled w/o Topstitch

Outside of Garment

J6-3c Besom Pocket - Angled w/ Topstitch

Outside of Garment

J6-3 Besom Pocket - Horizontal; Inside View





Outside of Garment

J6-3b Besom Pocket - Horizontal w/o Topstitch

J6-3d Besom Pocket - Horizontal w/ Topstitch

Outside of Garment



VERTICAL / ANGLED WELT OR BESOM POCKET: Note: • Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. • Placement can be angled or horizontal. • Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. • See specification package.

Attach to Frt Facing Frt Edge w/ Lining Strip

Inside of Garment - Tack Option 1

Stitch Tack Closed w/ 1/2" Open at each ends

J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled

Fron

t Edg

e

Stitch Tack under Facing

Inside of Garment - Tack Option 2J6-2 Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled

Stitch Tack Closed w/ 1/2" Open at each ends

Fron

t Edg

e

w/o Bartack

J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/o Bartack

Outside of Garment

Fron

t Edg

e

J6-2a Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch, w/Bartack

Outside of Garment

w/ Bartack

Fron

t Edg

e

w/o Bartack

Outside of Garment

J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch; no Bartack

F ron

t Edg

e

J6-2b Welt Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch & Bartack

Outside of Garment

w/ Bartack

Fron

t Edg

e

Outside of Garment

J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/o Bartack

w/o Bartack

Fron

t Edg

e

F ron

t Edg

e

J6-4a Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; No Topstitch; w/Bartack

Outside of Garment

w/o Bartack

Outside of Garment

J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch; no Bartack

F ron

t Edg

e

w/ Bartack

Fron

t Edg

e

J6-4b Besom Pocket-Vertical/ Angled; w/ Topstitch & Bartack

Outside of Garment



VERTICAL “ONSEAM” POCKET:

J6-5a Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with Bendback / Extended Facing

Pock

et o

peni

ng

Outside of Garment

Top Pocket Bag

Opening

Bendback(see Spec Pkg for Facing width)

Edgestitch

Opening

Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing

Under Pocket Bag

Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension

Opening

Attached Facing w/ Backstitch or Topstitch(see Spec Pkg for Facing width)

Opening

Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing

Edgestitch

Top Pocket Bag

J6-5b Vertical "Onseam" Pocket w/ Attached Facings

Outside of Garment

Pock

et o

peni

ng

Top Pocket Bag w/ Attached Facing

J6-5c Vertical "Onseam" Pocket with No Facing; Attached Pocket Bag

Pock

et o

peni

ng

Outside of Garment

Top Pocket Bag

Opening

Attached Pocket Bagw/ Backstitch

Opening

Top Pocket Bag w/ Bendback Facing

Under Pocket Bag

Under Pocket Bag w/ Extension

Attached Pocket Bagw/ Backstitch



PATCH POCKETS: Note: • Sketch for construction only, not for Pocket shape / size. • Pocket can be with or without Topstitching. • See specification package.

Bluff Setting - Opening w/ Bendback Facing:

J6-6a Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing "Bluff" Setting w/o Topstitch

Seamed inside

Raw edge w/ or w/o Staystitch (see spec pkg)

1" Bendback Facing

* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish

Seamed inside


J6-6b Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing "Bluff" Setting w/ Topstitch

1" Bendback Facing


Bluff Setting - Opening w/ Attached Facing:

* 1" Attached Facing* Backstitch or Topstitched. See Spec Pkg

J6-6c Patch Pocket - Attached Facing "Bluff" Setting w/o Topstitch


Seamed inside


J6-6d Patch Pocket - Attached Facing "Bluff" Setting w/ Topstitch



Seamed inside


Topstitch setting:

Single Bendback

Overedge Finish -* See spec pkg

Topstitch to set Pocket

J6-7a Patch Pocket - Bendback Facing Topstitched Setting

Bendback Facing * See Spec Pkg. for

Facing Finish* See Spec Pkg. for Facing Finish

Topstitch to set Pocket

J6-7b Patch Pocket - Attached Facing Topstitched Setting

Single Bendback

Overedge Finish -* See spec pkg




POCKET FLAP – WELT OR BESOM POCKET: • Flap Pocket can be angled or horizontal. • Flap can be with or without Topstitching (Backstitch edge as needed). • See specification package.

Under Flap:* Cut smaller than outer flap.* Cut on bias.

Under Flap Bias

J7-1a Angled Welt Pocket w/ Flap (no Topstitch at outer edge)

Flap Set above Welt Edge

Outside of Garment

Raw Edge Enclosed

Under Flap

J7-1a Angled Welt Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)


Outside of Garment

Raw Edge Enclosed

Under Flap

Outside of Garment

Flap set into Welt seam

Under Flap

J7-2a Angled Besom Pocket w/ Flap (no Topstitch at outer edge)

J7-2a Angled Besom Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)


Outside of Garment

Under Flap

Under Flap:* Cut smaller than outer flap.* Cut on bias.

UnderFlap

Bias


J7-1b Horizontal Welt Pocket w/ FlapOutside of Garment

Under FlapRaw Edge Enclosed

J7-1b Horizontal Welt Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)

Outside of Garment

Raw Edge Enclosed

Under Flap


Outside of Garment

J7-2b Horizontal Besom Pocket w/ Flap


Under Flap

J7-2b Horizontal Besom Pocket w/ Flap (Topstitch at outer edge)

Outside of Garment

Under Flap


POCKET FLAP – Patch pocket:

• Flap Pocket can be with or without Topstitching (Backstitch edge as needed). • See specification package.

Raw Edge Enclosed

J7-3a Flap-Patch Pocket - No Topstitch; w/ Stitch-tack

Under Flap:Bias Stitch-tack

Under Flap:Bias

J7-3b Flap-Patch Pocket - No Topstitch; w/ Bartack

Raw Edge Enclosed

Bartack

J7-4a Flap-Patch Pocket-Topstitch w/ Stitch-tack

Raw Edge Enclosed

Stitch Tack

Under Flap:Bias

Raw Edge Enclosed

J7-4b Flap-Patch Pocket- Topstitch w/ Bartack

Under Flap:Bias

Bartack



PLEATS: Inverted Pleat

A3-1 Inverted Pleat

Edgestitch to Control Pleat

Inside View

Outside View

Box Pleat

A3-2 Box Pleat

Outside View

Inverted Pleat / Box Pleat Tacked for Shipping:

A3-5 Inverted Pleat "X" Tack for Shipping

Pintuck

A3-4 Pintuck

Knife / Single Side Pleat

A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat A3-3 Knife Pleat / Single Side Pleat



BINDING & PIPING FINISHES:

Folded

A6-1 Full Clean Finish w/Edgestitch

A9-3 Piped Edge w/ or w/o Filler

Outside ofGarment

Inside of Garment

Backstitch

Edge finished w/ Facing OR Lining

Piping w/ or w/o Filler

Note: No Backstitch if edge is Topstitched

BUTTONHOLES:

A10-4a Bound Buttonhole - Clean Finish

Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)

Underside

(Straight Buttonhole)Topside

A10-4b Bound Buttonhole - Backed w/ Machine Buttonhole

A10-4c Bound Buttonhole - Edgestitched

Topside Underside(looks same as Topside)

A10-4d Bound Buttonhole - Leather

Topside Underside

A10-1 Keyhole Buttonhole w/Bartack at end

Bartack

w/ or w/o Gimp Filler (* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-2 Keyhole Buttonhole w/ Fishtail End

w/ or w/o Gimp(* See Spec pkg Trim)

A10-3 Regular/Straight Buttonhole

A10-5a On-Seam Buttonhole - Horizontal

Seam

A10-5b On-Seam Buttonhole - Vertical

Seam



ZIPPER FRONT CLOSURES:

A4-1b Lapped Zipper Setting - Open Bottom

See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish

A4-2b Kissing Zipper Setting - Open Bottom

See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish

A4-3b Exposed Zipper Setting - Open Bottom

See Spec Pkg for Zipper Finish Open End

A4-4b Invisible Zipper Setting - Open Bottom

* See Spec Pkg for Front Facing



ZIPPER TERMS: NOTE: • See specification package for “Right” for “Left” Zipper Pull. • Zipper illustrations are generic.

(A) Closed end - Normal type

(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended Closed

(B) 2 - Ended Closed

(D) 2 Pulls - 2 Open Ends

(D) 1 Pull Open End

Common Zipper Types

(A) Closed end - Invisible type

Sealed End

Sealed at Top

Tape Ends

Stringer

Cord

Bead

Bottom Stop

Slider

Chain

Pull

Teeth

Top Stops

Retainer

Separable Pin

Retainer Pin

OpenedTape Closed

Basic Zipper Construction Terms

Tape Width

Chain Width

Length of Fastener

Zipper Dimension Terms



OTHER CLOSURES:

A10-6a Crochet Button Loop -Kissing Setting

A10-6b Crochet Button Loop - Open Setting

A10-7a Button Loop - Kissing Setting

A10-7b Button Loop - Open Setting

A10-7c Button Loop -Closed Setting

Top Side

Under side of Loop

A10-8 Folder Button Loop

A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure

A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye A11-1b Hook & Straight Eye

A11-1c Hook & Loop

A11-2a Hook & Bar

a. Machine Set

* Note: Reinforce w/ Self or Interlining

A11-2b Hook & Bar

b. Hand Set

A11-3 Hook & Loop Tape

Hook Tape Loop Tape



BELT LOOPS:

Press w/ Seam centered

A12-1a Tubular-Belt Loop

A12-1b Tubular-Belt Loop

Seam at edge.

A12-3 Folder Finish-Belt Loop

Top side Under side

A12-2 Coverstitched-Belt Loop

A12-4a Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop (at seam)

Seam

A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop

A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop (set in Seam)

(4) Reverse Bendback

(5) Outside Stitch-tack

(3) Inside Stitch-tack

(2) Reverse Bendback(1) Stitch-tack

A12-5 Clean Finish Top & Bottom Outside Stitch-tack @ Top

(4) Reverse Bendback




A12-6 Clean Finish Top & Bottom Inside Stitch-tack

A12-7 Clean Finish @ Bottom; Single Bendback @ Top w/Bartack

(4) Bartack(3) Single Bendback




DECORATIVE STITCHES:

DST-1 Pearl Stitch

Inside Garment

Pearl Stitch

Outside Garment

*Overedge stitch w/ 18-26 Stitches per Inch, depending on finish needed.DST-2 Shell Stitch

Outside Garment

*Overedge stitch to form thread around edge in "Shell" shape.

Shell Stitch

Inside Garment

* Overedge stitch formation at raw edge uniformly stretched to have wavy Lettuce leaf edge. * See spec pkg for stitch width & density.

Outside Garment

DST-3 Lettuce Edge Stitch

Lettuce Edge Surging Stitch

Inside Garment

DST-4 Picot Stitch

Outside Garment

* Two thread multi-step Chainstitch formed just off edge.

Picot Stitch

DST-5 2-Needle Fagoting*Decorative Chainstitch between two finished edges. *See Spec Pkg for Picot Stitch Width.

Two Needle Fagoting

DTS-6 Pick Stitch*See Spc Pkg for Stitch Length and Spacing.

* Stitch Length and Spacing may be even or uneven.

Pick Stitch - Stitch through upper ply only.



DECORATIVE STITCHES (cont.):

DST-7 Saddle Stitch

* Stitch Length and Spacing are equal size.

* See Spec Pkg for Stitch per Inch (SPI).

Saddle Stitch - Stitch through all layers.

* Overedge stitch.* See Spec Pkg for specific Stitches per Inch (SPI) and Stitch Width.

Outside Garment

DST-8 Blanket Stitch

Blanket Stitch

Inside Garment

Step 2 - Topside Step 2 - Underside

Seam at top of tuck

Double Needle w/ Narrow Zig-Zag at Underside * closes fold * creates tuck

* See Spec Pkg for Tuck Height

Seam at top of tuck

Step 1- Topside Step 1 - Underside

DTS-9 Air Tucking