YVES SAINT LAURENT
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Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent, known as the “King of
fashion” made his mark in the world in an iconic
way. Yves Henri DonatMatthieu Saint Laurent was
born on August 1, 1936, in Oran, Algeria. He grew up
in a villa by the Mediterranean with his two younger
sisters, Michelle and Brigitte. While his family was
relatively well off—his father was a lawyer and
insurance broker who owned a chain of cinemas—
childhood for the future fashion icon was not easy.
Saint Laurent was not popular in school, and was
often bullied by schoolmates for appearing to be
homosexual. As a consequence, Saint Laurent was a
nervous child, and sick nearly every day.
Yves found a peace in the world of fashion.
He liked to create intricate paper dolls, and by his
early teen years he was designing dresses for his
mother and sisters. At the age of 17, a whole new
world opened up to Saint Laurent when his mother
took him to Paris for a meeting she'd arranged with
Michael de Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue.
A year later, Saint Laurent, who had
impressed de Brunhoff with his drawings, moved to
Paris and enrolled at the ChambreSyndicale de la
Couture, where his designs quickly gained notice. In
1955 De Brunhoff also introduced Laurent to
designer Christian Dior, a giant in the fashion world.
Laurent was then hired. "Dior fascinated me,"
Laurent later recalled. "I couldn't speak in front of
him. He taught me the basis of my art. Whatever
was to happen next, I never forgot the years I spent
at his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent's
style continued to mature and gain still more notice.
In 1957 Yves took over The Dior House after
Dior’s death. Yves then went in creating his first
collection that included the “trapeze” silhouette.
This collection was a great success. In 1960 Saint
Laurent was called back to his home country of
Algeria to fight for its independence. The House of
Dior replaced Yves with Marc Bohan. Yves managed
to secure an exemption based on health grounds,
but when he returned to Paris, Saint Laurent found
that his job with Dior had disappeared. The news, at
first, was traumatic for the young, fragile designer.
Then it became ugly, with Saint Laurent successfully
suing his former mentor for breach of contract, and
collecting £48,000.
The money and the freedom soon
presented Laurent with a unique opportunity. In
cooperation with his partner and lover, Pierre Berge,
the designer resolved to open his own fashion
house. With the rise of pop culture and a general
yearning for original, fresh designs, Saint Laurent's
timing couldn't have been bette
Over the next two decades, Saint Laurent's
designs sat atop the fashion world. Models and
actresses gushed over his creations. He outfitted
women in blazers and smoking jackets, and
introduced attire like the pea coat to the runway. His
signature pieces also included the sh8eer blouse and
the jumpsuit.
By the 1980s, Yves Saint Laurent was a true
icon. He became the first designer to have a
retrospective on his work at the Metropolitan
Museum in New York City. Under the direction of
Berge, who continued to manage Saint Laurent's
firm even though the two had broken up in 1986, the
fashion house flourished as a money making
venture.
But Saint Laurent struggled. He became
reclusive, and fought addictions to alcohol and
cocaine. Some in the fashion world complained that
the designer's work had grown stale.
In January 2002, Saint Laurent participated
in his final show and then retired for good in
Marrakech. Yves Saint Laurent passed away in Paris
on June 1, 2008 after an illness
1966
Catherine Deneuve avec Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent Couture Le Smoking
French, 1960s
1966, Yves Saint Laurent
LE SMOKING
TUXEDO
Yves Saint Laurent, fashion house in 1979,
autumn-winter collection (haute couture)
Yves St Laurent, 1959.
1967
Yves Saint Laurent, Long evening ensemble,
haute couture collection,
Fall-Winter 1984.
Yves Saint Laurent, Short evening coat, haute
couture collection,
Spring-Summer 1971
Prints and colour
1969 Yves Saint Laurent Safari Suit with Belt
France
1969.
African Collection mini-dress, Summer,
Spring-Summer, 1967
1968
Safari & African
October 1965 PARIS:THE GRIN AND THE
SHAPE Shrimpton in Mondrian by Yves Saint
Laurent.
Spring/summer 1980
Art
Spring 2002
Spring 2002
Spring 2002
1968
Sheer
AlberElbaz
Biography
Albert Elbaz was born in Casablanca,
Morocco in 1961. He immigrated to Israel
with his family at the age of ten, and grew up
in Holon. After serving in the Israeli Defense
Forces, he studied at the Shenkar College of
Engineering and Design in Ramat Gan. His life
partner is Alex Koo, Lanvin's director of
marketing.
In 1987, Elbaz moved to New York City,
worked for two years for a manufacturer of
mother-of-the-bride clothing. He went on to
work for Geoffrey Beene for seven years. He
says he was influenced by Beene's rejection of
trends and masterful drape and fit. "It was a
very beautiful relationship... Our best
dialogue was not in words," Elbaz has
reminisced
In 1997, Elbaz left Beene and, through retailer
Dawn Mello, was hired by the firm of Guy
Laroche. But, by the time of Elbaz's arrival,
the Laroche enterprise had become overly
conservative and lackluster. Even so, Elbaz
was able to update the collection and
somewhat enhance the image of the firm,
whose activities at the time included the
management of 15 boutiques and 70 license
agreements worldwide. However, he
departed within a year, 1998, and began
designing ready-to-wear women's clothing
for Yves Saint-Laurent, because Saint-Laurent
himself wished to withdraw from his hands-
on design of prêt-à-porter. In the position,
Elbaz's talent was recognized, and he would
have become the head designer of the house
when Saint-Larent retired. This was not to
happen because the Gucci Group purchased
YSL Rive Gauche, the ready-to-wear label,
and, hence, Gucci design director Tom Ford
dismissed Elbaz after 3 collections. Elbaz then
began working for Krizia in Italy and
designed a well-received inaugural
collection.
In October 2001, he was appointed artistic
director of Lanvin in Paris. Lanvin is the
oldest extant fashion house worldwide,
having been founded by Jeanne Lanvin, who
began making dresses in 1909 and millinery
earlier.Elbaz's simple and feminine clothing
— similar to the sporty, casual character of
Lanvin's 1920s outfits— has been lauded by
the fashion press.
Le Smoking Tuxedo
spring 2000 ready-to-wear
fall 2000 ready-to-wear
Prints & Colour
Spring 2000 R T W
Fur
fall 2000 ready-to-wear
Sheer
Spring 200 rtw
Fall 2000 rtw
Ruffles
Fall 2000 rtw
Spring 2000 rtw
Tom Ford
Biography
Born in Texas in 1962, Tom Ford has
become the most influential designer
of the last decade.
Tom made his move to the Big Apple
as a teenager and enrolled at the NY
University, in Art History, before
changing to take up Architecture at
Parsons School of Design in New York.
In 1986 he joined the creative staff of
the famous American designer Cathy
Hardwick, and two years later he
became the Design Director at Perry
Ellis. By 1990 Tom had moved to
Milan and joined the team at Gucci, as
Women’s Wear Designer. Within two
years he’d climbed the corporate
ladder to become Gucci’s Creative
Director.
After Gucci bought a controlling stake
in Yves Saint Laurent, Ford was
appointed creative director. Ford says
the secret of his success is his energy,
and he only sleeps around three hours
a night. His celebrity fans include the
likes of Madonna, Bianca Jagger and
TrudieStyler.
Tom caused a bit of an advertising stir
with the promotion for his M7
fragrance. The campaign featured
naked model Samuel de Cubber in a
full-frontal pose. But as Tom says:
"Perfume is worn on the skin, so why
hide the body? The M7 campaign is
really pure, it’s a very academic nude.
I wanted to show a man who
represents a natural and relaxed
image of male beauty".
Tom also hit the headlines with his
sensational Gucci ad, featuring a
naked woman whose bikini line has
been waxed into the shape of the
letter `G`.
In 2004, Ford parted company with
Gucci, after a disagreement over his
contract.
Le Smoking Tuxedo
fall 2012 ready-to-wear
fall 2001 ready-to-wear
Prints & Colours
fall 2002 ready-to-wear
fall 2003 ready-to-wear
fall 2004 ready-to-wear
fall 2004 ready-to-wear
Sheer
fall 2002 ready-to-wear
fall 2003 ready-to-wear
Fall 2001 rtw
fall 2002 ready-to-wear
Fur
fall 2003 ready-to-wear
fall 2004 ready-to-wear
fall 2003 ready-to-wear
Ruffles
fall 2002 ready-to-wear
fall 2003 ready-to-wear
fall 2003 ready-to-wear
fall 2001 ready-to-wear
Stephano Pilati
Biography
Stefano Pilati was born in Milan,
Italy in 1965. He is an Italian fashion
designer. He has been creative director at
Yves Saint-Laurent since 2004.
Pilati was raised in Milan, where he grew
up in a "family of stylish women".
Inspired by his two sisters' fashion
magazines, he created his first sketches
for his sisters.
While Pilati was studying environmental
design in Milan in the 1980s, he
completed an internsip at Cerruti. He was
later employed by an Italian velvet
company before working for Armani
between 1993 and 1995 as a menswear
assistant. He joined the Prada Group in
1995, where he designed for Miu
Miu's men's and women's collections.
Pilati has also worked for Miu Miu. Pilati
first joined YSL in March 2000 as
women's design director, the second-in-
command to then-creative director Tom
Ford. In 2004, he was promoted to
creative director with the apparent
blessing of Yves Saint Laurent himself and
former YSL head Pierre Berge, both of
whom criticized Ford's designs.
(Alexander McQueen had previously been
considered for the position, but he turned
down the job to concentrate on his
signature collection.) Pilati's first designs
were displayed in YSL's cruise and men's
collections in June 2004, and his official
international debut was the October 2004
Spring 2005 women's collection.
Le Smoking Tuxedo
fall 2007 ready-to-wear
Spring 2009 rtw
fall 2010 ready-to-wear
Fall 2010 rtw
Prints &
Colours
spring 2012 ready-to-wear
fall 2007 ready-to-wear
Sheer
fall 2010 ready-to-wear
spring 2009 ready-to-wear
spring 2012 ready-to-wear
Fur
fall 2007 ready-to-wear
fall 2010 ready-to-wear
Ruffles
fall 2010 ready-to-wear
spring 2012 ready-to-wear
Spring/summer 2011
YVES SAINT LAURENT
Natasha Stulec