yji8003 - MIL-STD-188everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-C/download...3.3.1 Basic material. The...

Ii===ilMIL-C-82172B(MC)19 JULY 1990

SUPERSEDINGMIL-C-82172A(MC)2 May 1974

MILITARY SPECIFICATION

COAT, MAN’S: SUMMER AND WINTER, SC.ARLET~DRUM AND BUGLE CORPS, DRUM MAJOR

This specification is approved for use by the U.S. MarineCorps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by allDepartments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1.

1.1scarlet,

1.2

SCOPE

SGQ12!2” This specification covers requirements forwool, drum and bugle corps coats.

Classification. The coats shall be of one type in thefollowing sizes as specified (see 6.2):

Schedule of sizes

(Short, Recrular,Lonq, Extra Lena)

34 4035 4136 4237 4438 4639

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions deletions)and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving thisdocument should be addressed to the Commanding General(PSE-C), Marine Corps Research, Development, and AcquisitionCommand, Washington, DC 20380, by using the self-addressedStandardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426)appearing at the end of this document or by letter.

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;distribution is unlimited.

Downloaded from http://www.everyspec.com

MIL-C-82172B(MC)

1.3 Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored toan individual order, this specification shall govern, except thatthe detailed requirements of section 3, table I, may be modifiedto the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents.

2.1.1 Specification, standards, an-d handbooks. Thefollowing specifications, standard, and handbooks form a part ofthis document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwisespecified, the issue of these documents are those listed in theissue of the Department of Defense Index ofSpeci.fications andStandards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the——solicitation. -

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDEIWL

V-T-2 76V-T-280V-T-301DDD-L-20

DDD-T-86

MILITARY

MIL-C-368

MIL-B-3461

MIL-P-15064“MIL-C-16.375MIL-C-21115 -

MIL-C-43718

MIL-C-82114

Thread, CottonThread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole.Thread, Silk.Label; For Clothing, Equipage, andTentage, (General Use).Tape, Textile; Cotton, GeneralPurpose (Unbleached, Bleached, OrDyed) .

Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth,Twill, Rayon.Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform andCap.Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head.Cloth, Wigan, Cotton.Cloth, Tropical: Wool,Polyester/Wool.Cloth, Polyester; Polyester andCotton; Polyester and Rayon, ForPockets.

coat Front: For Coats, Musicians.

2


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-151FED-STD-191FED-STD-751

MILITARY

MIL-STD-105

MIL-sTD-129

(Unless otherwise indicated,

Metals: Test Method.Textile Test Methods.Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings.

Sampling Procedures and Tables ForInspection By Attributes.Marking For Shipment and Storage.

copies of federal and militaryspecifications, standards, and handbooks are available from theStandardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 RobinsAvenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094)

2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawincrs, andpublications. The following other Government publication forms apart of this document to the extent specified herein. Unlessotherwise specified, the issue

LAWS AND

U.S. POSTAL

(Copies of the manual may

is tha~ cited in the solicitation.

REGULATIONS

SERVICE MANUAL

be obtained from theSuperintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.)

2.2 Non-Government Duplications. The following documentform a part of this document to the extent specified herein.Unless otherwise specified, the issue of the document which isDoD adopted is that listed in the issue of the DODISS cited inthe solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of thedocument not listed in the DODISS is the issue of the documentcited in the solicitation.

UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE

Uniform Freight Classification Rules

(Application for copies should be addressed to the UniformClassification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza,Chicago, IL 60606.)

3


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Department of Defense (DOD) Standard Color Card of OfficialStandardized Shades of Sewing Thread 1968

(Application for copies should be addressed to the ColorAssociation of the United States, Inc., 343 Lexington Avenue, NewYork, NY 10016.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflictbetween the text bf this document and the references citedherein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing inthis document, however, supersedes applicable laws andregulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Standard sanmles. Standard samples are furnishedsolely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.4).Variation from the specification may appear in the sample, inwhich case the specification shall govern.

3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sampleshall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.4) inaccordance with 4.4.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth,wool, tropical, scarlet shade 2502 “(see6.3), 10.5 ounce,conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115.

3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the coats and collarand for making the underarm shields, collar eyelet covers, coathanger and straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of thecoat shall be cloth, rayon twill, scarlet shade 2506 (see 6.3),conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368.

3.3.3 Polvester and cotton. The stays for the armhole andshoulder.seams, reinforcement pieces for the collar eyelets,bindings for the lower edge of the collar, and neck edge of thecoat front interlining shall be cut from cloth, polyester andcotton twill, conforming to MIL-C-43718, except the requirementfor nonfibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. Thepolyester and cotton shall be khaki’shade 3707 for the armholeand shoulder seam stays, the collar eyelet reinforcement piecesand the binding “for the neck edge of front interlining; and blackfor the binding for the lower edge qf the collar interlining.


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

3.3.4 Collar interlining. The material for the collarinterlining shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture,laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to thefollowing requirements when tested as specified in section 4,table III.

3.3.4.1 Cotton buckram. The buckram shall be made ofcotton of suitable staple length and grade to meet therequirements of this specification, thoroughly cleaned, wellcarded, drawn and evenly spun.

3.3.4.2 Weave. The weave of the single plies of the clothshall be four harness; 2 up and 2 down herringbone twill, 20 endsright and 20 ends left.

3.3.4.3 Texture. The two plies of the cloth shall eachhave a minimum thread count per inch of 50 in the warp and 20 inthe filling.

3.3.4.4 Laminated cloth. The two plies of the cloth shallbe thoroughly adhered together with a synthetic resin typelaminating material which shall not cause any objectionable odorin the finished cloth. The laminated cloth shall show noevidence of delamination after being subjected to the wet (dry)cleaning, accelerated aging, and perspiration tests as specifiedin section 4, table III.

3.3.4.4.1 Finish. The laminated cloth shall have a starchfinish. The original stiffness of the finished cloth; and thestiffness of the cloth after being subjected to the wet (dry)cleaning, accelerated aging, and perspiration tests, shallconform to the following when tested as specified in section 4,table III.

Stiffness, inch-pound: Minimum Maximum- original 0.60 0.95- after accelerated aging 0.70 0.95- after wet (dry) cleaning 0.50 0.85

after perspiration 0.50 0.85

3.3.4.4.2 Weiqht. The weight of the finished laminatedcloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard (see section 4,table III).

3.3.4.4.3 Breakinu strencrth. The breaking strength of thefinished laminated cloth shall be 100 pounds minimum in the warpdirection and 80 pounds minimum in the filling direction, whentested as specified in section 4, table III. After being

5


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

subjected to the accelerated .aging test, the breaking strength ofthe cloth shall not be less than the original breaking strengthwhen tested as specified in section 4, table III.

3.3.5 Reinforcement disc. The reinforcement discs forbuttons secured to the pack side seam, with ring toggles, shallbe punched from the cloth, cotton, buckraq specified in 3.3.4.1.The reinforcement’ discs ”shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with 1/8inch diameter hole at the center.

3.3.6 Paddina for collar. The material for padding thecollar shall be suitable cotton felt, white, weighing 4.25 to4.75 ounces per square yard when tested as specified in section4, table III.

3.3.7 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to therequirements of class 1 of MIL-C-82114.

3.3.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform tothe requirements of type I, class 2, of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.9 Sleeve-head Dads. The sleeve-head pads shall conformto the requirements of type IV of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.10 Stay tape. The stay tape for the-armhole shall becotton, unbleached, 1/4 inch wide, confomqing to type III, class1 of DDD-T-86, except the requirement for nonfibrous materialshall not apply.

,3.3.11 PiPinq. The piping material shall be cloth,polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607, (see 6.4), conforming totype 111 of MIL-C-21115, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for piping theshoulder straps, collar, or ornamental sleeve patches; and 1 inchwide for piping the front and bottom edges of the coat.

3.3.12 Bindinq. The binding for the collar interliningshall be cut 1 inch wide from the following materials:

a. Upper edge of collar interlining - cloth, polyester/wool blend as specified in 3.3.11.

b. Lower edge of collar interlining - cloth, polyesterand cotton as specified in 3.3.3

---

3.3.13 Wiqan. The material for reinforcingof the sleeves shall be cloth, cotton, wigan, 2.5conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375.

the bottom edgeounces,

6


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

3.3.14 Threads.

3.3.14.1 Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform toV-T-301 as follows, except the requirements for extractablematerial shall not apply:

Use Type Class Ticket No. Ply

Bartacks and all outside I- Aseaming and stitching.

Machine felling. oMaking buttonholes in coat. I B and F 3Hand felling; and hand sewing. III i c 2

3.3.14.2 Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform toV-T-276 as follows:

Use Type Ticket No. Ply

All inside seaming and stitching. 1C2 A 3Serging and overedge stitching. lAl 70 2Machine tacking armholes andsewing on buttons. 1B3 24 4

The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton.

3.3.14.3 Color and colorfastness. lillthread shall bescarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, except the cotton thread forbasting and machine tacking armholes may be white. The cottonthread for overedge stitching the piping at the bottom edge ofthe coat shall be black. The colored thread shall show thefollowing colorfastness when tested as specified in theapplicable thread specification: (see DOD Standard Color Card ofStandardized Shades For Sewing Threads 1968)

Thread Color Wet (drvl cleaninq LiahtCotton Scarlet Good ---Silk Scarlet Fair FairSilk Black Good Good

3.3.15 GimP. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8,soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of V-T-280.

7


MIL-c-82172B(MC)

The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040,and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.16fronts shallspecified in

Cover

Ornamental braid. The ornamental braid for the coatconform to the following requirements when tested assection 4, table

- material (cavering)color of wire

- metal wire (undercoating)- plating material- winding thread

Core [stuffer)- material- number’of threads (minimum)- ply of thread (minimum)- color

Weavenumber of carrier (minimum)ends/carriersshapewidth (inch) (minimum)weight/linear yd. (grains)

Metal content (%1- gold

silver- copper

Fastness to- water- wet (dry) cleaning

3.3.17 Buttons.

III:

metal threadlight goldsilver and coppergold2 ply white or yellow cottonthread

cotton thread (soft)72gold

plain braided126-8 (total 79)tubular3/8 + 1/16154.5

0.30.6remainder (traces of nickel andzinc )

goodgood

3.3.17.1 Insiania button. The insignia buttons shall bemetal, gold plated, enlisted design, 27-line for shoulders, beltloops, and ornamental sleeve-patches; and 40-line for fronts,COIlfOrmiI19 to type I, style 3, Class A, subclass 2 Of MIL_B-3461.

3.3.17.2 Rinq toqqle. Ring toggles for securingline buttons to coat, belt loops and ornamental sleeveshall conform to MIL-B-3461.

8

the 27-patches


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

3.3.18 Hooks and eves. The hooks and eyes for closing thecollar shall be brass, black enameled finish, size No. 16commercial type. All surfaces and edges of the hooks and eyesshall be clean; smooth; and free from burrs, tool marks, sharpedges, and roughness. Hooks and eyes shall be thoroughly andcompletely lacquered with the best available quality of blackjapanned lacquer. The dry lacquer film shall be continuous;level; adherent; and free from lint, dust, or other foreigninclusions that may affect appearance or serviceability, andshall withstand the test for tackiness specified in 4.7.2.

3.3.19 Labels. Each coat shall have a combinationpersonal-clothing identification label and a size label asfollows* The coat is intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and thelabels shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.19.1 Combination P ersonal-clothinq identificationlabel. The combination personal-clothing identification labelshall conform to type I, classes 1 and 10 (combined) of DDD-L-20except all printing and the space between the lines of printingshall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The contentand format shall be as follows:

SERVICE NO.COLLAR SIZENOMENCLATURE (item description)

CONTRACT NO. DATENAME OF CONTRACTORWOOL PRODUCTS ACT INFORMATION

3.3.19.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to typeI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numericalsize designation specified in 1.2 followed by the lettersS (short), R (regular), L (long), or XLthe following example:

40 RStock Number

The stock number may be incorporated ininstead of in the size label.

3.4 Desicm. The coat shall be the

(extra long), as shown by

the identification label

U.S. Marine Corps designshown on figures 1 through 3: a seven-button, single breasted,

9


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

form-fitting, fully lined coat, having a one-piece front withgold braid; waist and chest darts; a four-piece back without acenter vent; belt loop to button; ornamented sleeve ends;shoulder straps to button; and a standup collar with hooks andeyes for front closure and with a worked eyelet at each end for aremovable branch of service insignia. The top and bottom edgesof the collar; front and bottom edges of the coat; the top,bottom and scalloped back edges of the orn~ental sleeve patches;and the ,edges of the shoulder straps shall be piped with thematerial specified in 3.3.11.

3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to thecontractor by the’Government. The standard patterns shall not bealtered in any way and shall by used only as a guide for cuttingthe contractor’s working patterns. The contractor’s workingpatterns shall be identical to the standard”pattern. Thestandard patterns shall provide 5/8 inch allowance for centerback, 3/4 inch allowance for side seams; and 3/8 inch allowancefor all other seams, except as otherwise specified in table I.Standard patterns show size and are marked and notched for propercutting, placement, and assembly of component parts.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Coats shall be.cut from thematerials specified herein in accordance with the pattern partsindicated below:

No. ofItem Pattern nomenclature cut Parts

;:3.4.5.6.

&9.10.11012.13.

Material basic: Cloth, wOO1,tropical

FrontFront facing, rightFront facing, leftSide backCenter backTop sleeveUnder sleeveCollar, outer plyShoulder straps, top plyShoulder straps, under plyOrnamental sleeve patch, top plyOrnamental sleeve patch, under plyBelt loops

10


MIL-c-82172B(MC)

Item

14.15.16.17.18.19.20.21.

22.

23.

24.

Pattern nomenclature

Cloth, raven, lininq

FrontSide backCenter backTop sleeveUnder sleeveCollar liningCollar eyelet coverUnderarm shield

Cloth, cotton, buckram

Collar interlining

Cloth , Polvester and cotton

Collar - Interlining

Cloth, cotton, wiqan

Reinforcement (bottom edges ofsleeves)

No. ofcut Parts

222221

24

1

1

2

Markers

25. Sleeve turnup and sleeve ornament -

3.6 Construction

3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The coats shall bemanufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch,seam, and stitching types specified in table I.

3.6.1.1 Operations. The contractor is not required tofollow the exact sequence of operations as listed in table I, butall operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coats.

3.6.1.2 Stitches, seams, and stitchinq. The stitch, seam,and stitching types specified in table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch, as specified in tableI, indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. Alloveredge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knifeattachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cuttingthe material.

11


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

3.6.1.2.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of seamsand stitching (stitch type 301), except ends of a continuous lineof stitching when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shallbe backpacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuousline of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.Thread breaks shall be secured back of the break not less than1/2 inch.

3.6.1.3 Shade markinq. The component parts of the coat,cut from one piece of wool and lining materials; including pairsof sleeve linings and underarm shields when cut from ends, shallbe shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout thegarment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

Corrosive metal fastening devices.:: Sew-on shade tickets.c. Adhesive ~ype tickets which show discoloration and

the use of an adhesive mass which adheres to thematerial upon removal of the tickets.

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements.

Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Operation

Cuttinq.

a. Cut coats instrict accordancewith patterns fur-nished by theGovernment.

b. Cut all materi-als in direction ofwarp as indicatedby directionallines on patterns.

IWpe

12

Stch ThreadPer NdlInch


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing reuuirements.

Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch&

1.

Operation

Cutting.(contJd)

m“. Cut all scarletwool parts from onepiece of basicmaterial, exceptthe following partsmay be cut fromends: under ply ofthe shoulderstraps, and underply of ornamentalsleeve patch.l?artscut from endsshall harmonizewith the shade ofthe coat.

d. Cut the body andcollar linings, thecollar eyeletcovers, and the topply of the underarmshields from onepiece of rayonlining material.All other rayonlining parts may becut from ends.When pairs ofsleeve linings arecut from ends, theshade of the sleevelinings shallmatch. Cut thestrips for coathanger and liningsecuring straps1-1/8 inches wide.

IWpe

13

Per NdlInch

Bob=


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ Operation ~ we

1. Cuttinq. (cent’d)

e. Cut polyesterand cotton staysfor armhole andshoulder seams onthe bias, 3/4 inchwide and 4 ~ 1/4inches long. cutthe polyester andcotton for bindingthe neck edge ofthe coat frontinterlining on thebias, 3/4 inch wideand approximately 5inches long. cutthe polyester andcotton for thecollar interliningon the straight inaccordance with thepattern furnished.

f. Cut the cottonbuckram for inter-lining the collaron the straight inaccordance with thepattern furnished.

g. Cut the cottonfelt for paddingthe collar 1-1/4inches wide and ofsufficient lengthto fold over theends of the inter-lining for eachsize collar.

Per NdlInch

Bobx

14


MIL-c-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Operation ~

Cuttinq. (cent’d)

h. Cut the pipingmaterial (see3.3.11) for pipingthe front andbottom edges ofcoats, edges ofshoulder straps,Dollar, and orna-mental sleevepatches on thestraight. Thepiping shall be cut5/8 to 3/4 inch~ide for shoulderstraps, collar, andmmamental sleevepatches, and 1 inchride for front and~ottom edges of the:oat. Cut theapplicable bindingnaterial (see3.3.12) for the topmd bottom edges ofthe collarinterlining on thestraight, 1-1/8inches wide.

i. Cut the wiganfor reinforcing thebottom of sleevesm the bias inaccordance with thepattern.

j“ Punch thereinforcement discsfor buttons secured

L’we

15



iMIL-C-82172B(MC)



1.

2.

Operation

:uttinq. (cent’d)

to the side seamfrom cloth, cottonbuckram. The rein-forcement discshall be 7/8 inch~iameter with a 1/8inch diameter holeat the center.

Replacement ofiamaqed parts.

a. At time of cut-ting, replace allparts of coat con-taining holes;seriously weaken-ing defects such assmashes, multiplefloats, loose orweakening slubs,etc., expected todevelop into holes;shade bars and dyestreaks; or un-sightly slubs,etc., affectingappearance.

b. Replace any partdamaged during themanufacturing’ pro-cess by needlechews~ which may beexpected to devel-op into holes;scissors or knifecuts ; tears; holes;

‘me

16

Per NdlInch


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE 1. Manufacturinff requirements.

Seam/ Stch Thread

2.

3.

4.

OperationOpn $tch Stch&

Replacement ofciamacredparts.(contJd)

mends; or burns inthe material,affectingappearance.

Shade markinq.

a. Mark or ticket(see 3.6.1.3) allcomponent parts cutfrom one piece ofbasic and liningmaterials, andpairs of sleevelinings when cutfrom ends, to in-sure uniform shadeand size throughoutthe coat.

b. The use oftickets with anymetal fasteningdevices isprohibited on therayon lining.

Make coat hanaerand linina securinqstrain.

Finished appear-ance. The coathanger and liningsecuring strapsshall finish 1/4 to3/8 inch wide.

I?vnePer NdlInch

Bob=

17


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ ODeration ~ me

4.

5.

Make coat hanaerand lininq securinqstrans. (contfd)

a. Fold the 1-1/8inch wide strip oflining material inhalf lengthwise.Turn the edges tothe inside and seam1/16 inch from theturned edges.

b. Cut the coathanger 3-3/4 ~ 1/4inches long.

.. Cut the lining“

securing straps 4-1/2 ~ 1/4 incheslong.

14akecollar eveletsevers.

Finished appear-ance. The collarsyelet covers shallfinish 1-3/4 ~ 1/8inches wide.

~. Turn under theside edges of the:ollar eyelet:overs. Stitch 1/16to 1/8 inch fromthe folded edges,:atching the turnedlnder portions inkhe stitching.

301

301

EFp-1

EFa-1(eachside=d9e)

18

Per NdlInch

12-16

12-16

k

!4

Bob%

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch~

5.

Stch ThreadPer Ndl Bob

k

A

A

Operation ‘me

;Sa-1

U3a-1

19

Inch

12,-16

12-16

Make collar eveletcovers. (contJd)

b. Fold each coverin half across thewidth. Seam 1/16 to1/8 inch from thefolded side edges.

Make underarmshields.

Finished appear-ance. The shieldsshall be finishedsmooth and flatwithout puckers,pleats, gathers, orother distortions.

a. Position the twoplies of materialfor the underarmshields with edgeseven. Seam the twoplies togetheralong the cumedside and bottomedges 3/8 inch fromthe edges.

b. Turn the shieldright side out,working out theseamed edgescompletely.

6.


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


OpnNo.

6.

7.

Operation

Make underarmshields. (control)

c. Press theshields smooth andflat with a heatedpressing iron orpressing machine.

Make belt looPs.

Finished appear-ance. The beltloops shall beuniform in appear-ance and shallfinish smooth andflat withoutpuckers, pleats,gathers, or otherdistortions. Thebuttonholes shallbe clean cut, wellmade, well workedover the gimp tofit a 27-lineinsignia button.The gimp and threadshall be pulledthrough to theunderside of theloops . The purlingof the buttonholesshall be on theoutside.

a. Fold the beltloops in halflengthwise face toface forming twoplies.

Seam/Stch Stch

Pvpe

20


BobJ!12?L


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Make belt looPs.(control)

b. Seam the twoplies togetheralong the side andpointed edges, 3/16inch from the rawedges.

c. Trim corners andpoint for properturning. Turnloops, working outthe point andseamed edgescompletely.

d. Edgestitch theloops uniformly1/16 to 1/8 inchfrom folded andseamed edges.

e. Make a hori-zontal eyelet end,square bar typebuttonhole, cut 3/4inch long, in eachloop midway betweenthe back and frontsdges. The inside~dge of the eyeletmd of the button-hole shall finish5/8 inch frompointed the end ofthe loop.

301

301

3ut-:on-lole

SSe-2(a)

SSe-1(b)

(seamedadge)X3f-1(folded=dge)

21


12-16

12-16

60 perbutton-holenotinclud-ingbartack

(silk;

(silk]

(silk)

BobJ!E2Z

A

A

F


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing rem irements.

OpnOperation

Make belt loops.(cent’d)

f. Securely bartackthe end of the but-tonhole, catchingthe ends of thegimp and thread inthe bartack. Trimthe ends of thegimp and thread.

Make shoulderstraps.

Finished appear-ance. The shoulderstraps shall beuniform in appear-ance and shallfinish smooth andflat withouttwists, gathers,puckers, pleats, orother distortions.The piping shall beevenly worked outand shall extenduniformly 1/8 inchbeyond the se~ededges of the shoul-der strap. Thebuttonholes shallbe cleancut, wellmade, well workedover gimp to fit a27 line insigniabutton. The gimpand thread shall bepulled through tothe underside of

Seam/itch Stch

lar-:ack

‘vf3e

22

StchPerInch

21 perbartack

ThreadIdl

L

(silk]


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing reauirements.


8.

Operation

Make shoulderstraps. (cent’d)

the straps. Thepurling of thebuttonhole shallon the outside.

a. The shoulderstrain shall be

be

made-of two pliesof basic materialpiped with a 5/8 to3/4 inch wide stripof piping materialspecified in3.3.11.

b. Turn under oneedge of the piping5/16 inch andstitch through allplies, 1/16 inchfrom the turned rawedge.

c. Position theright side of thetop ply of theshoulder strap onthe hemmed pipingwith the raw edgesof shoulder strapin line with thepiping stitching1ine.

d. Stitch shoulderstrap to pipingalong the back,front, and collar

301

301

EFa-1

SSe-2(a)

23

Per NdlInch

12-16

10-16

Bob

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturincf requirements.

OpnNo.

8.

Operation

Make shoulderstraps. (cent’d)

end, 1/8 inch fromthe inner edge ofthe piping.

e. Trim and notchthe piping inaccordance withgood manufacturingpractice in orderto prevent pullingand to eliminategathers and bulgesaround the collarend.

f. Position the topply on the underplyface to face, withthe outer edge ofpiping and the rawedge of the under-ply even with theback notchesmatching.

9“ Stitch along theback, front, andcollar end, throughall plies, 3/16inch from the innerraw edge of thepiping. Trim anyexcess material ifnecessary.

h. Turn straps,working out pipededges completely.

Seam/Stch StchZE?+

301

We

5Sk-1(a)

(with-Xlt:ord)

24


10-16 !4(silk;


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Opn& n---.+: --

8. Make shoulderstrain. (cent’d)

i. Topstitch thestraps uniformly,3/16 inch from thefolded edge of thepiping.

j. Press theshoulder strapssmooth and flatwith a heatedpressing iron orpressing machine.

k. Make a hori-zontal, eyelet end,square bar typebuttonhole, cut 3/4inch long, in eachstrap, midwaybetween the backand front edges.The inside edge ofthe eyelet end ofthe shall button-hole finish 5/8inch from the outeredge of the pipingat the collar end~f the strap.

1. Securely bartackthe end of the but-tonhole, catchingthe ends of thegimp and thread inthe bartack. Trimthe ends of the~imp and thread.

Seam/Stch Stch-

301

But-tonhole

Bar-tack

Tvpe

5Sk-1(b)

nrithout~ord andtopstitched

25


12-16

60 perButton-holenotinclud-ingbartack

21 perbartack

k(silk]

3(silk]

4(silk)

Bobx

A

F

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Operation

fake ornamentalsleeve patches.

?inished appear-mce. The orna-mental sleeve patchshall be uniform inappearance andshall finish smoothmd flat without~wists, gathers,qleats, puckers, or>ther distortions.Phe piping shall be>venly worked outmd shall extendmiformly 1/8 inch~eyond the seamed=dges of the sleeve?atch. The eyeletsshall be well<~orked with the?urling on themtside of thesleeve patch andshall finish with a1/8 to 3/16 inchdiameter opening.

a. The ornamentalsleeve patch shallbe made of twoplies of basicmaterial piped witha 3/4 inch widestrip of the pipingmaterial specifiedin 3.3.11.


Bob


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ lXPQ_ me

9.

Operation

Make ornamentalsleeve Patches.(cent’d)

b. Turn under oneedge of the piping5/16 inch. Stitchthrough allplies, 1/16 inchfrom the turned rawedge.

c. Position theright side of thetop ply of thesleeve patch on thehemmed piping, withthe raw edges ofthe sleeve patch inline with thepiping stitchingline.

d. Join the sleevepatch to the pipingalong the top,bottom and scal-loped edge 1/8 inchfrom the inner edgeof the piping.

e. Trim and notchthe outer edge ofpiping along thescalloped edge inmder to preventpulling and bulgeson the edges.

301

301

EFa-1

5Se-2(a)

27

Per NdlInch

12-16

12-16

A

!!(silk]

Bobx

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Operation

Make ornamentalsleeve Patches.(cent’d)

f. Position the topply of the sleevepatch on the under-ply, face to face,with the outer edge~f the piping andthe raw edge of theunderply even.

9“ Stitch along thetop, bottom, andscalloped edge,through all plies3/16 inch from theinner raw edge ofthe piping. , Trimany excess materialif necessary.

h. Turn the sleevepatches, workingout the pipingcompletely andforming smoothcorners and pointat the scallopedside edge.

i. Topstitch thesleeve patchesuniformly, 3/16inch from thefolded edge of thepiping,

m

301

301

I’vpe

W3k-1(a)

(with-Dutcord)

SSk-1(b)

(withoutcord andtop-stitch-ed)

28

StchPerInch

Seam/ ThreadOpn Stch Stch~

9.

12-16

12-16

!Jdl

A(silk;

A(silk

Bob=

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch& Operation ~

9.

10.

Make ornamentalsleeve patches.(cent’d)

. Press the sleeve~~tches smooth andflat with a heatedpressing iron orpressing machine.

k. Mark each sleevepatch, as indicatedby marks onpattern, for thelocation of threeeyelets.

1. Make one eyeletat each mark,through all pliesof the sleevepatches, forattaching insigniabutton.

Stitch and Pressdart in undersleeve.

a. Fold the undersleeve, matchingthe cut edges ofthe sleeve darts.Stitch the entirelength of the dart,1/4 inch from thecut edges of thearmhole, and taper

Eye-let

301

L’vpe

;Sa-1[cut~dges))Sf-1[folded>dge)

29

Per NdlInch

22 pereyelet

12-16

Bob-z!E?2L

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn ‘Stch Stch Per Ndl

11.

Operation

Witch and Pressiart in undersleeves, (cent’d)

the line of stitch-ing to zero at thelower folded edges.

b. Turn the cutedges of the darttoward the forearmadge and press thesntire dart smoothand flat with aheated pressingiron.

Seam sleeves atforearm.

Finished appear-ance. The forearmseam shall finishsmooth and flatwithout twists,gathers, puckers,or pleats and shallstart and finishevenly.

a. Position the topsleeve with upperforearm edge inline with the notchin the armhole edgeof under sleeve.The notches in thelower forearm edgeof top and undersleeve shall match.Seam top and

!YFKL

3.01

‘me

Xbd- 1mdSSa-1

30


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch&

11.

12.

Operation

Seam sleeves atforearm. (cent’d)

under sleevestogether, 3/8 inchfrom the forearmedge of top thesleeve, forming atapered outlet onthe under sleeve.

b. Spread openseam and presswith a heatedpressing iron.

c. Mark sleeve

theflat

endfor turnup; andmark the top sleevefor positioning theornamental sleevepatch with thepattern marker.

Baste wicranreinforcement tos1eeve.

a. Position thesleeve on the wiganreinforcement piecewith the marks andnotches matching.

b. Baste the sleeveand wigan piecetogether at themark for the bottomturnup.

Wandor101

31



MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Stch Thread

12.

13.

Operation

3aste wiqanreinforcement tosleeve. (cent’d)

.-. Tack the sleeveLO the reinforce-ment piece alongthe forearm seam~llowance, andalong the backarm>dges of the topmd under sleeve.

Join ornamentalsleeve Patches tosleeves.

Finished appear-ance. Theornamental sleevepatch shall beuniformly stitchedto the top sleevewithout twists,gathers, puckers,pleats, or rawedges. The foldedfront edge of thepatch shall not betopstitched. Theposition of theornamental sleevepatch shall be asshown in figure 4.The scalloped edgeof the sleeve patchshall be stitchedto the sleeve onlyat the corners andpoint in order tofacilitate

Seam/Stch Stch

‘me -

;Sa-1

32

Per NdlInch

8-12

8-12

Bobx

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Operation me m-.

Join ornamentalsleeve ~atches tosleeves. (cent’d)

removal of insigniabuttons whenpressing the coat.

a. Mark the orna-mental sleeve patchm the under ply,1/4 inch from theraw edge. Positionthe sleeve patch onthe sleeve with thenarks matching andthe bottom edge ofsleeve patch evenwith mark for the~ottom turnup ofthe sleeve.

~. Seam the sleevepatch to the sleeveat the mark.

.-. Turn back thesleeve patch at the~eamline and stitchthrough the sleeveand wigan along the~pper and bottom?iped edges. Theline of stitchingshall be adjacentLo the stitchingline of the sleeve?atch piped edgemd shall extendErom the turned

.,F-

301

301

LSa-1

LSbj-1


12-16

12-16

l-i(silk)

A(silk)

Bob-

A

A

33


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


OpnNo.

13.

14.

ODeration

Join ornamentalsleeve patches tosleeves. (cent’d)

edge to approxi-mately 1/2 inchover the pointedends. At the centerpoint, the stitch-ing shall extendapproximately 1/2inch on each sideof the point.

Seam sleeves atbackarm.

Finished appear-ance. The backarmseam shall finishsmooth and flatwithout twists,gathers, puckers,or pleats and shallstart and finishevenly.

a. Join the top andunder sleevetogether at thebackarm with a 3/8inch seam, catchingthe ends of thewigan reinforcementpiece in thestitching.

Seam/Stch Stch

ype

;Sa-1

34


12-16


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/OPn Stch Stch&l&

14 ●

15.

16.

Operation ~ we

Seam sleeves atbackann. (cent’d)

b. Spread open theseam and presssmooth and flatwith a heatedpressing iron.

Baste and tacksleeve turnup toreinforcement.

a. Turn up thebottom edge ofsleeve to theinside at the markand baste along theturned edge.

b. Tack the rawedge of the turn upportion to thereinforcement wiganpiece withblindstitching.

Stitch and Pressdart in undersleeve lininas.

a. Fold the undersleeve lining,matching the cutedges of the undersleeve dart.Stitch the entirelength of the dart,1/4 inch from thecut edges at thearmhole, and taper

+andm101

301m3and

301

EFc-1

SSa-1(cutedges)X5f-1(folded=dge)

35


4-6

4-6

12-16

Bobx

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


OpnNo.

16.

17.

Oneration

Stitch and pressdart in under ‘sleeve lininqs.(cent’d)

the line of stitch-ing to zero at thelower folded edge.

b. Turn the cutedges of the darttoward the forearmedge and press theentire dart smoothand flat with aheated pressingiron.

Seam sleeve lininqat foreann.

Finished appear-ance. The forearmseam shall finishsmooth and flatwithout twists,gathers, puckers orpleats and shallstart and finishevenly.

a. Position the topsleeve lining withupper forearm edgein line with thenotch in thearmhole edge ofunder sleevelining. The notchesat the lower fore-arm edge of the top

Seam/Stch ~tch Per Ndlm

301

Wpe

SSbd-1mdSSa-1

36

Stch Thread

Inch

12-16


MIL-C-82172B(MC)



17.

18.

Operation

Seam sleeve lininqat forearm.(cent’d)

and under sleevelining shall match.Seam the top andunder sleeve liningtogether, 3/8 inchfrom the forearmedge of topsleevelining, forming atapered outlet onthe under sleevelining.

Seam sleeve lininqat backarm.

Finished appear-ance. The backarmseam shall finishsmooth and flatwithout twists,gathers, puckers,or pleats and shallstart and finishevenly.

a. Join the top andunder sleevelinings at thebackarm with a 3/8-inch seam.

I’me

SSa-1

37

PerInch

12-16

Wdl


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. ,Manufacturinq requirements.

Opn~

19.

ODeration

Assemble sleeve andsleeve lininq.

Finished appear-ance. The liningshall be seamed tothe sleeve withouttwists, gathers,puckers or pleats.

a. Position thesleeve lining onthe sleeve with theupper edge of thelining extendingapproximately 1inch beyond thearmhole edge of thesleeve.

b. Tack the sleevelining to the fore-arm and backarmseam allowance,respectively, ofthe top sleeve,commencing at thetop edge of thewigan reinforcementpiece and extendingto approximately 6inches from thearmhole edge atbackann andapproximately 4-1/2inches from armholeedge at forearm.

c. Pull sleevethrough lining.

Seam/Stch Stch

l!vpe

;Sa-1

38


6-8

4-6

Bob

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch&l&

20,

21.

Fell turnup ofsleeve lininq.

Finished appear-ance. The sleevelining shall not beshort, tight, ortwisted at bottom~f sleeves.

a. Turn under thebottom edge of thesleeve lining tofinish 1 to 1-1/4inches above thefinished end of thesleeve. Baste toturnup of sleeve;or the sleevelining may befelled to bottomsleeve withoutbasting.

b. Fell the folded~dge of the sleevelining to theturnup of thesleeve withblindstitching.

Press sleeves.

L’Urnthe sleeveright side out andIssemble in pairs.Press the lowerlalf of sleevesmooth and flat,creasing at the

~Fc-1(b)

39


8-10

6-8

-1

~silk))[silk)


~MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn ~Stch Stch&

21.

22.

Press sleeves.(cent’d)

forearm and back-arm. The backarmcrease shall be onthe backarm seam.Remove the bastingat lower end of thesleeve.

Assemble collaqinterlining.

Finished appear-ance. The bindingat the top and bot-tom edge of thecollar interliningshall be uniformlystitched 1/4 inchfrom the foldededges. The bind-ing shall not betight or fullcausing puckers,gathers, or.pleats.The interlining,eyelet reinforce-ment pieces, andedges of thebinding shall besecurely caught inthe stitching. Theinterlining shallfinish with theeyelet rein-forcement piecespositioned on theinside and the feltpadding on the

.,”- 13me”

40



MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Per Ndl~ ODeration -

22 Assemble collarinterlining.(cent’d)

Dutside. Thecollar eyeletcovers shall bepositioned so that,in the finished~ollar, the coversshall be centeredcwer the eyelets.

a. Position theeyelet reinforce-ment at each end ofthe collar inter-lining. Bind theupper and lower~dge of the inter-lining with a 1-1/8inch wide strip ofthe bindingmaterial specifiedin 3.3.12, catch-ing the eyeletreinforcement in:he seams.

>. Position the}trip of felt>adding at the:enter of theInterlining, with:he ends of the:elt extending~pproximately 1.nch beyond end of:he interlining.

301

Stch-e

BSa-1(eachedge)

41

Inch

12-16


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Opn&

22.

23.

ODeration

Assemble collarinterlining.(cent’d)

c. Stitch thepadding throughinterlining andeyelet reinforce-ment, from end toend, 1/8 inch fromthe upper and loweredge of padding.

d. Lap the raw edgeof the collareyelet cover 1/2 to5/8 inch on the topinside edge of thecollar interlining.Seam the covers tothe interlining 1/4inch from the rawedge of the cover.

Pipe outer DIV ofcollar.

Finished appear-ance. The pipingshall extend atlower, upper, andside edges of theouter ply. Shall beuniformly stitchedwithout twists,gathers, puckers,or pleats.

Seam/Itch Stch

IWpe

;Sa-1

Xa-1

42


12-16

12-16

BobE

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Operation ~ we

Pipe outer Plv ofcollar. (cent’d)

a. The outer plyshall consist oftwo plies of basicmaterial piped atupper and loweredges with 3/4 inchwide strip of thepiping materialspecified in3.3.11.

b. Position the twoplies of the outercollar together(face up and edgeseven) and stitchtogether from endto end, 1/8 inchfrom upper andlower edges.

c. Seam the 3/4inch wide strip ofpiping to the twoplies of the collarfrom end to end,1/8 inch from upperand lower edges.

d. Turn back thepiping and outerply at the upperand lower edges,respectively,uniformly workingthe folded edge ofthe piping beyond

301

301

301

SSa-1

SSe-2

BSm-3(b)

43


12-16

12-16

12-16

A(silk;

A(silk;

k(silk;

Bobk

A

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch Thread

Opn Stch Stch Per Ndl~ pe Inch

23.

24<

Operation

‘ipe outer nlv ofollar. (cent’d)

he edges. Top-titch the outerdy uniformly, 3/16.nch from the~olded edge of the~iping.

@semble collar‘see fiqure 5~.

?inished appear-mce. The collarshall be assembledM shown in figurej without twists,~athers, puckers,Jr pleats. In theEinished collar,the end of theLining shall exten(approximately 1/2inch beyond theright end of thecollar and approxi.rnately2-1/2 inche~beyond the left en[of the collar forthe extension tab.The eyelet covershall not be caughlin the eyelet.

a. Position theupper piped edge othe collar 1/8 inc~below the upperbound edge of thecollar interlining

44

BobLpr


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TAELE I. Manufacturing reuuirements.

OpngJQ

24

OPeration

Assemble collarjsee fiaure 5).(cent’d)

with lower edges ofthe collar and col-lar interliningeven. The collarshall extend ap-proximately 1 inchbeyond each end ofcollar interlining.

b. Stitch collar tointerlining alongthe upper and lowerpiped edge from endto end. Line ofstitching shall beadjacent to stitch-ing of piped collar~dge, catching the=yelet cover in thestitching.

.-. Lap the upper?iped edge of:ollar assemblyover the upper raw>dge of liningapproximately 1/2Lnch with theLining facing up.Witch collar toLining and eyelet:over along piped>dge adjacent tostitching line of:he collar piped>dge. The stitch-ing shall extend

Seam/Stch Stch

301

301

;Sa-1

Xa-1

StchPerInch

12-16

12-16

ThreadNdl

A(silk

h(silk

Bobx

A

A

45


{j

lMIL-C-82172B(MC)~

TABLE I. kanufacturinq requirements.,,(

Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch& Inch

24.

25.

Operation

~ssemble collar[see ficfure 5).(cent’d)

from center to~enter of thesyelet covers.

i. Smoothly foldthe ends of the:ollar padding andinter ply to theinside over themds of theinterliningassembly. Presssmooth and flatwith a heatedpressing iron orpressing machine.

e. Turn the collarlining at the seamto the inside ofthe collar. Presssmooth and flatwith a heatedpressing iron orpressing machine.

Make collarextension tab.

Finished appear-ance. The collarextension tab shallextend 3/4 to 7/8inch beyond thefolded edge at theleft end of thecollar.

‘me

46

Per Ndl

,


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Opng

25

26.

ODeration

Make collarextension tab.(cent’d)

a. Turn the top andbottom edges, andthe end of thecollar lining atthe left end of thecollar, to theinside of thelining. Baste theturned portionalong the top,front, and bottom=dges to the bodyof the liningterming the collar~xtension tab.

O. Stitch the:ollar extension:ab 1/16 inch from:he top, front and~ottom edges.:ontinue thestitching at thelack of tab to toprow, forming a 1-1/8 to 1/2 inchride box stitch.

~ell ends of:ollar.

~inished appear-mce. The uppermd lower piped!dges of the collarLt each end shalllot be visible on

Seam/Stch Stch

Hand

301 ;Sc-1top and)ottom>dges))Sf-1front)dge);Sa-1back!dge)

StchPerInch

12-16

ThreadNdl

47


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. .Manufacturinq requirements.


26.

PerInch

2-3

22 pereyelet

ldlOperation -

iand

{ye-Let

Pvpe

48

Fell ends ofCollar. (cent’d)

the outside of thefinished collar.

a. Fold the ends ofcollar to theinside, against theends of interlin-ing. Tack collarto reinforcementpieces and eyeletcovers with over-cast stitching.

b. Make one eyeletm each end of thecollar through allplies of collarmidway between theupper and bottomedges and 1-1/2 ~1/8 inches fromfolded edge. Theeyelet shall not gothrough the eyeletcover.

‘i.

;silk)

i(silk)

27. Fold and stitchdart in frontlininq.

Finished appear-ance. The dartsshall finishwithout gathers,puckers, or pleats.The stitching shallbe 3/8 inch from


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing recyuirements.

Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ m me

27,

28.

Operation

Fold and stitchdart in frontlininq. (cent’d)

the folded edge atthe center.

a. Fold the frontlining and stitchthe waist darts inaccordance withmarks indicated onthe pattern. Taperthe upper and lowerends to a flatpoint and securelytack the points.

Sew on identifi-cation label.

Finished appear-ance. Theidentificationlabel shall bepositioned so thatin the finishedcoat, the labelshall be midwaybetween front andback edges of theright facing withthe bottom edge ofthe label shall beapproximately 4inches from thebottom finishededge of the coat.

101 )Sf-1

49

Per NdlInch

12-16

Bobx

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturincf reuuirements.

Opn&

28.

29.

ODeration

;ew on identifi-cation label.[cent’d)

~. Sew the iden-tification label to:he outside of theeight facing with asingle row of;titches 1/16 to1/8 inch from each>dge.

Join front lininq:0 wool facinq.

?inished appear-ance. The lining,shall be carefullyjoined to theEating so that, inthe finished coat,the lining shall be~mooth and flatalong the facingwithout creases,bulges, overlapping~f excess material,m otherdistortion.

a. Position thelining on the woolfacing with the topedges even.

b. Seam front edgesof the lining tothe back edge ofthe facing, 3/8inch from the edge.

Seam/Stch Stch

We

;Sa-1[each>dge)

SSa-1

50


12-16

12-16

Bobl!F?L

A

A \


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


304

Operation

Join front lininqto wool facinq.(cent’d)

Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch& m me

29.

The stitching shallextend from the topedge of facing toapproximately 1-1/4inches from thebottom edge.

Assemble backlining.

Finished appear-ance. The sideback lining shallbe carefully joinedwithout gathers,puckers, or pleats.The seams shallstart and finishevenly.

a. Position andjoin the left andright side backlinings to therespective centerback lining with a3/8 inch seam.

b. Position thebacks and jointogether at thecenter with a 3/8inch seam.

301

101

Per NdlInch

12-16

12-16

Bob=

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing re cfuirements.

Seam/ Stch Thread

31.

32.

33.

ODerationOpn Stch Stch~

Join side back andfront lininqs.

Finished appear-ance. The side,back, and frontlinings shall becarefully joinedWithout gathers,puckers, or pleats.rhe seams shallstart and finishevenly.

a. Position andjoin the front andside back liningsat the sides with a3/4 inch seam.

Dveredae stitchlinina and facinqseams.

a. Overedge stitchtogether the rawedges of the facinglining seam, sideseam, side backseam, and centerback seamallowance.

Press lininq seamsand waist darts.

a. Turn the edge offacing lining seam,the side seams andside back seamstoward the back and

w

)01

503>r504

‘we

;Sa-1

52

PerInch

12-16

6-8

6-8

[dl

i

70/2

70/2

Bobs

A

70/2

70/2


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


OpnOperation

Press lininq seamsand waist darts.(cent’d)

press smooth andflat.

b. Turn the waistdarts toward theside seam and presssmooth and flat.

Assemble fronts.

Finished appear-ance. The chestand waist dartsshall finishWithout gathers,puckers, or pleats.rhe stitching forthe waist dartsshall be 3/8 inchErom the folded=dge at the center.

~. Fold the fronts,uatching the~otches of the:hest darts.Stitch the entireLength of the darts]/8 inch from the~otches at thelpper end. Taper:he line of stitch-hg to zero at thelower end.

Seam/Stch Stch

101 ;Sa-1;cut>dge))Sf-1~folded!dge)

53


12-16


MIL-C-82172B(MC]


OpnNo.

34 ●

35 ●

36.

Operation

Assemble fronts.(cent’d)

b. Fold fronts andstitch the waistdart in accordancewith the marksindicated on thepattern. Taper theupper and lowerends to a flatpoint and securelytack the points.

Press darts onfronts.

a. Turn the foldededge of the chestdart toward thearmhole and presssmooth and flat.

b. Turn the foldededge of the waistdart toward theside seam and presssmooth and flat.

Assemble side backsand center back.

Finished appear-ance. The side andcenter backs shallbe joined withoutgathers, puckers,or pleats. Theseams shall startand finish evenly.

Seam/Stch Stch

Fvpe

)Sf-1

54


12-16


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch Thread

36.

37.

ODerationStch Stch

Assemble side backsand center back.(cent’d)

a. Position thecenter back withnotches matchingand join with a 5/8inch seam.

b. Position andjoin the left andright side backs,with notchesmatching, to therespective centerback with a 3/8inch seam.

Join fronts andback.

Finished appear-ance. The frontsand back shall bejoined withoutgathers, puckers,m pleats. Theseam shall startand finish evenly.

a. Position andjoin fronts to theback at the sideswith a 3/4 inchseam.

301

301

301

SSa-1

5Sa-1

Y3a-1

55

Per NdlInch

12-16

12-16

12-16

Bob-@2L

A

A

A


;

MIL-C-82172B(MC)


38.

ODeration

Join fronts andback. (cent’d)

Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ ~ -e

37.

b. Overedge stitchall raw edges ofthe joining seamsfor fronts andback.

c. Spread open theside and back seamsand press smoothand flat with aheated pressingiron.

Seam reinforcementstav to armhole andshoulder.

Finished appear-ance. The poly-ester and cottonreinforcement stayshall be sewn tothe armhole andshoulder edges ofthe fronts withoutgathers, puckers,or pleats. The topend of the armhole’stay and lower edgeof the shoulderstay shall form aright angle at thearmhole without thestays overlappingeach other.

503x504

EFd- 1

EFd-1

56

Per NdlInch

6-8

6-8

70/2

70/2

Bob-

70/2

70/2


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn StchNo Operation— m

38

394

Seam reinforcementstay to armhole andshoulder. (cent’d)

a. Seam the 3/4inch wide polyes-ter and cottonstays to theunderside of thefront at theshoulder edge and~pper front edge ofthe armhole, 1/8Lnch from the outer~dge. The stay atthe armhole shall~xtend from 1/2Lnch below theshoulder seam down:he front edge ofwmhole approxi-mately 4-1/2inches. The stay on:he shoulder shall>xtend fromApproximately 1/2inch from armholemd neck.

?aPe armholes.

~. Sew the cotton:ape to the armhole;tarting with one!nd approximately 1.nch above thelotch in the frontslnd Continuingalong the lower andlack edges of the

301

101

Stch-e

SSaa-1

;Saa-1

Per NdlInch

12-16

12-16

Bob&E?2L

A

A

57


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturincy requirements.

Opn~

39.

40.

41.

Operation

FaPe armholes.(cent’d)

mmhole to approxi-mately 1/2 inchErom the shoulder~dge.

o. The tape shall~e stitched withslight tensionalong the lowerEront edge of thearmhole and shallbe held taut whilestitching along theback edge.

Press shoulderblades and armholestaDes.

a. Press theshoulder blades andthe armhole tapesmooth and flatwith a heatedpressing iron orsuitable typepressing machine.

Mark and dress leftfront.

a. Mark and shapethe left front edgefrom the top notchto the bottom frontnotch.

Seam/Stch Stch



MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch& Operation ~ me

41

42,

Mark and dress leftfront. (cent’d)

b. The mark lineshall be 1 inchfrom the upper edgeto 1-1/8 inches atthe waistline.Continue on astraight line fromthe waistline tothe notch at thebottom edge.

NOTE: The dressingand shaping shallbe performed in thesewing room.

.w. Where necessary,trim any frayedsdges along theright front andbottom.

Stitch Dipina tocoat.

Finished appear-ance. The pipingshall be uniformlystitched to thecoat withouttwists, gathers,puckers, or pleats.The piping shallextend from thecollar notch at topedge of the rightfront, along thebottom and up to

59

Per NdlInch

Bob%


TABLE I.

MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Manufacturing requirements.

Stch ThreadSeam/Opn Stch Stch Per Ndl

Operation ~ me Inch

Stitch PiPinq tocoat. (cent’d)

the collar notch atthe top edge of theleft front.

a. Position the 1inch wide strip ofpiping material onthe outside of leftand right fronts,with edge even withtop, front, andbottom edges ofcoat. Stitch thepiping to coat 1/8inch from edge.The piping shallextend from thebottom right frontedge to the collarnotch at the topedge of left front.

b. Turn the pipingto the inside,folding the cornerssmooth and flat andworking out thefolded edge ofpiping uniformly,1/8 inch beyond theedges of the coat.

c. Topstitch thecoat to the pipededges uniformly,3/16 inch from thefolded edge of thepiping, catching

301

301

SSa-1

5Se-2

60

12-16

12-16

A(silk)

A(silk)

BobL

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ Operation = me

42 Stitch Pipinq tocoat. (cent’d)

the turned underportion of thepiping in thestitching.

d. Notch out anyexcess pipingmaterial at the topand bottom frontcorners to elimi-nate bulkiness.Trim the inner edge~f piping only on-the left front fromthe upper frontdown to approx-imately 1 to 1-1/2inches belowwaistline, so thatthe piping will notinterfere with thefront buttonholes.

e. Serge stitch theraw edge of thepiping at thebottom edge of theseat only.

E. Press the piped=dges of coat~mooth and flatwith a heated?ressing iron orpressing machine.

SFd-1

3Fd-1

61

Per NdlInch

6-8

6-8

?0/2

?0/2

Bob-

70/2

70/2


I

MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~

43.

Operation

Interline fronts.

a. Position theleft and rightfronts on therespective coatfront interlinings.Baste theinterlining andfronts togetherfrom approximately3-1/2 inches downfrom the shoulderedge to approxi-mately 2 inchesfrom the bottomedge of the front.

b. Baste along theshoulder, allowingroom for settingthe shoulder pad,working the full-ness in the frontstowards the arm-hole. Baste alongthe front of thearmhole approxi-mately 1-1/2 inchesfrom the edge.Continue to bastedown the back edgeof interlining,across the waistdart, to approxi-mately 2 inchesfrom the bottomedge of fronts.Baste along the topedge from thebasting stitches

We

iopper

iopper

62

Per NdlInch


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ Operation = me

43,

44.

Interline fronts.(cent’d)

for the shoulder toapproximately 1-1/2inches from thefront edge. Con-tinue to basteapproximately 1-1/2inches from thefront edge to thebottom edge of thefronts.

Trim coat frontinterlining.

a. Trim the topedge of coatinterlining evenwith the top edgeof fronts from thepoint of theshoulder to thezollar notch.

b. Notch the topsdge of the inter-lining in line withzollar notch.

.-. Remove stitchesjoining the front=dge of polyestermd cotton to coatfront interlining,approximately 1/2inch back from theEront and top edgesIf fronts.

;3

PerInch

Ndl


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Opn~

44.

45.

Seam/Stch Stch

ODeration

l!rimcoat fronttnterlininq.(cent’d)

i. Turn the frontsLnside out and trimLhe interliningonly, approximately1/4 inch back fromLhe front and top~dges of fronts.

3-. Trim theshoulder edge ofthe coat frontinterlining toApproximately 3/4inch from shoulderat armhole edge offronts. Taper thetrimming to 3/8inch at the neck.

Bind front and tonedae of inter-lining.

a. Fold thepolyester andcotton twill backand over the topand front raw edgeof the interlining.Stitch the frontturned under por-tion of the poly-ester and cottontwill to the bodyof the inter-linin$with three rows ofstitches, 1/4 inch

We

IFa-3

64


12-16


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Operation

Bind front and topedqe of inter-lining. (cent’d)

apart, placing thefirst row 1/8 inchfrom folded frontedge and catchingthe upper turnedunder portion inthe stitching.

Bind ton neck edqeof interlining.

Finished appear-ance. The poly-ester and cottonbinding shall beuniformly stitchedto the top edge ofthe coat frontinterlining fromthe collar notch tothe shoulder point.

a. Lap the 3/4 inchwide binding on theOutside of the coatfront interliningfrom the collarnotch to theshoulder pointapproximately 1/4inch. Stitch the~inding to theInterlining 1/8Lnch from the raw>dge of the~inding.

101 Xa-1

65


12-16


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Stch ThreadOpnNo.

46.

47.

Operation

Bind top neck edaeof interlining.(cent’d)

b. Smoothly foldthe free edge ofthe binding overthe top edge and tothe underside ofthe interlining.Secure the freeedge of binding tothe interliningwith a row ofstitches 1/8 inchfrom the raw edgeof the binding.

Fell ~ipincy to coatfront interlining.

a. Place the inneredge of piping onthe outside of theinterlining at thetop, front and bot-tom edges. Bastethe piping to theinterlining throughthe fronts.

b. Fell the upperfront and lowerinner edge of thepiping to the coatfront interlining.

c. Pull and removebasting stitchesfrom the piping.

1 Seam/Stch Stch-

301

101

301orHand

IWpe

lFa-1

EFc-1

66

Per Ndl BobInch

12-16

4-6

4-6

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ Operation ~ -e

47,

48.

Fell pi~ina to coat~.(cent’d)

d. Press the leftand right fronts ona suitable type ofheated pressingmachine, with thechest to conform tothe shape of thebody .

Mark fronts forpositioning thebraid and button-holes (see fiqureQ.

a. Mark thelocation of sevenbuttonholes on theoutside of the leftfront. The top andbottom buttonholesshall be in accor-dance with the markon the pattern.The remaining fivebuttonholes shallbe evenly spaced.

b. Extend eachbuttonhole linetowards the armholeedge. The secondbuttonhole line A-C shall extend towithin 1-1/4from armholeand 5/8 inch

inchesedgefrom

67

Per NdlInch


J

MIL-C-82172B(MC)



48.

Operation

Mark fronts forpositioning thebraid and button-holes (see fiqure~. (cent’d)

the front pipededge. The lowerbuttonhole line B-D shall be 1 inchshorter than lineA-C as shown infigure 6.

c. Bisect lines A-C and B-D and con-nect the bisectingpoints E-F with astraight line (seefigure 6).

d. Position theleft front on theright front face toface, with collarnotches and armholeedges even. Tracethe same line onthe right front tocoincide with thelines on the leftfront; the lines onthe right frontshall extend 3/4 to1 inch from thefront piped edge.The bisecting lineon the right frontshall be identicalto line E-F on theleft front.

l!vpe

I

68

Per NdlInch


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Per Ndl Bob~ Operation !EYE2_

48

49

Mark fronts forpositioning thebraid and button-holes (see fiqure~. (cent’d)

e. Draw a circle7/8 + 1/32 inch indiameter on eachhorizontal line,centered to thebisect line E-F.The edge of eachcircle shall touchthe horizontal lineforming a figure 8design as shown onfigure 6.

Baste sold braid tofronts. (seefiuures 6 and 7\.

a. The braid shallbe basted as shownin figure 7 to thetronts on the marksshown in figure 6.Jn the left side ofthe coat, the edge>f the braid shallEollow the edge of:he buttonholeBarks.

land

StchTvme

i9

Inch APL


MIL-C-82172B(MC),


OpnNo.

50.

51.

ODeration

Stitch sold braidto fronts (seefiqure 7).

a. The braid shallbe stitched to thefronts as shown infigure 7, 1/16 inchfrom each edge ofthe braid, exceptthe stitching shallnot cross over thecenter of thefigure 8 design.The braid on theleft front onlyshall be unstitchedfor approximately 3inches from frontend of the button-hole loop braid.

Set belt loops.

Finished appear-ance. The beltloops shall finishverticallystraight.

a. Center the beltloops vertically onthe side seam withthe pointed endtowards the bottomof the coat and theraw edge of theloop in horizontalalignment with themark for the bottom

Seam/Stch Stch

Pvpe

SSa-1[each5ide)

70


12-16 i(silk)


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


52.

Operation


51. Set belt looPs.(cent’d)

buttonhole asindicated by thepattern.

b. Seam loops tothe coat 1/4 inchfrom the raw edge.

c. Turn the loop atthe seam, with thepointed end towardsthe top edge ofcoat, and secureloop to coat with arow of stitches,1/4 inch from theraised edge.

Join facina tofronts.

a. Position theleft and rightfronts to therespective frontfacings (face toface), with thewaistline notch ofthe front in linewith the notch onthe facing and withthe front pipededge approximately3/8 inch from thefront edge of thefacing. Mark thefacing along the

m2EL

101

101

L3me

LSq-2(a)

LSq-2(b)

71

Per NdlInch

12-16

12-16

1(silk]

L(silk]

BobL

A

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ = me

52.

53.

Operation

Join facinq tofronts. (cent’d)

top, front, andbottom edges.

b. Lap the frontedge of the rightand left fronts,respectively at themarks on the out-side of the facing.Join the front andfacing together asclose as possibleto, but not on topOfr the stitchingjoining the pipingto the front. Thestitching shallextend from top tobottom edge of coatfront edge only.

c. Trim excessfacing materialwhere necessary.

Baste front edaes.

a. Turn the facing-lining assembliesto the inside offronts. Bastealong the frontedge of left andright fronts, work-ing the facing backfrom the foldededge of the piping.

301

101miand

~Sa-1

72

Per NdlInch

12-16(silk]


MIL-c-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing recyuirements.

Seam/OPn Stch Stch

Operation m-. Tvve

Baste facing .(second time~.

a. Baste the facingto the fronts,approximately 1-1/4inches from thetop, front andbottom edges of thecoat, holding thelower corner of thecoat in such areamer as to causethe lower frontedge of the frontsto roll inwardtowards the backedge of the facing.

b. Turn under andbaste the top edgeof the facing tothe fronts from thecollar notch to thefront edge, catch-ing the turnedunder portion ofthe facing in thebasting.

.. Baste the facingm

to the fronts aszlose as possibleto the facing-lining seam,placing the full-ness over the chestmd distributingthe fullness in theEating in accor-dance with good

Hopper

Hopper

Iopper

73


Bob


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch&& Operation ~

54.

55.

Baste facinq(second timel .(cent’d)

commercial prac-tice. The bastingshall extendapproximately 3inches from shoul-der edge of facingsto approximately1-1/4 inches fromthe lower edge offacing.

d. Turn under thebottom edge of thefacing at the markand baste along thefolded edge.

Tack facinqs tointerlining.

a. Tack the rightand left facing-lining seamallowances to therespective coatfront interliningsfrom approximately2-1/2 inches fromthe bottom edge ofthe coat toapproximately 3inches from theshoulder edge.

I’me

Hopper

SSm-1

74

Per NdlInch

4-6

4-6(sflk)

(s:lk )


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


OpnOperation

Baste front lininusto coat.

a. Fold the frontlining in accor-dance with thenotches, formingthe chest pleat.Baste along theentire center ofthe pleat. Thefolded edge of thepleat on the out-side of the liningshall be towardsthe armhole.

b. Baste the frontlining to the coat.Start at the lower~nd of chest pleat,:ontinue alonglower edge ofmnhole approxi-mately 2 inchesErom the edge, and>nd at the sideseam. Match sideseams of coat andLining. Continuelasting as close as>ossible to theside seam and then~cross the bottom:owards the front,approximately 4.nches from the)iped bottom edge~f the coat.

Seam/Stch Stch

Handor301

HandOr301

Hopper

~opper

?5


Bob_L!IK


MIL-c-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch&

57.

58.

ODeration

Baste back lininqto coat.

a. Fold the backlining, formingapproximately a 1inch wide pleat atthe center back.Baste the backlining to the coatalong the centerpleat from the topend, to approxi-mately 4 inchesfrom bottomfinished edge ofthe coat.

b. Baste backlining to coat.Starting at sideseam and continueapproximately 3inches from thearmhole andshoulder edges.

Hem bottom edqe oflining.

Finished appear-ance. The hemshall be uniformlystitched and shallfinish smooth andflat withouttwists, gathers,puckers, or pleats.The hem shall be3/4 ~1/8 inch wide.The lining securing

~

Handm301

Handor301

I!vpe

~opper

~opper

76



MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing rem irements.

Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Operation ~ me

Hem bottom edae oflininq. (cent’d)

straps shall bepositioned on theside seam outletsof the lining withone edge even withthe serged edge.

a. Hem the bottomedge of body liningwith the raw edgeturned under andone end of thesecuring strapspositioned andcaught in thestitching, 1/16inch from the upperfolded edge of hem.

Tack the lininqsecurinff straps tobottom of coat.

Finished appear-ance. The liningsecuring straps,when tacked to thebottom edge ofcoat, shall notcause twists or~ther distortionsto either the coatm the lining. Theend of the securingstraps shall finishbetween the pipingat bottom edge ofooat and side seam

301 EFb-1

77


12-16

Bobx

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ Operation

59. ~securina stra~s tobottom of coat.(cent’d)

allowance. In thefinished coat, thelining shall not bevisible below thebottom edge of thecoat.

a. Position andsecurely tack thefree end of thesecuring straps tothe piping at thebottom edge of coatthrough the sideseam allowance.

b. Position thebottom edge of thelining so that, inthe finished coat,the lining shallnot be visiblebelow the bottomedge of the coat.Fold the liningsecuring strapsacross the widthand stitch approx-imately 1/4 inchfrom the folded endin order to holdthe lining inposition.

m

301

301

L’vr3e

3Sbh-3

Xf-1

Per NdlInch

12-16

6-10

BobJ!E?2L

A

A

78


MIL-c-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch~ ODeration m

60,

61<

Fell facinqs.

a. Fell the facingto the piping atthe bottom edge ofthe coat. Start atthe bottom edge ofthe lining andcontinue along theback and bottomsdges of the facingto the front edge~f the coat.

b. Fell the folded~dge of the facingsto the piping alongthe top edge from~ollar notch tofront edge of coat.

Prim lininq andinterlining.

~. Trim the excess:oat front inter-lining and frontLining at themnhole.

). Trim back lining>ven at the neck.

... Trim the shoul-ier edge of the~ront and back.inings to approxi-mately 3/4 inch~rom shoulder at:he armhole edge.

Hand

Hand

I!we

StchPerInch

8-10

8-10

NdlThread

(stlk)

(s!lk)

79


~ MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing re ciuirements.

Handm301

l’vpe

Iopper

30

Per NdlSeam/ Stch Thread

Opn Stch StchQ ODeration !lYE&-

61.

62t

63.

Trim lininq andinterlining.(cent’d)

Taper the trimmingto 3/8 inch at theneck.

Baste shoulder padto coat.

a. Insert shoulderpads between inter-lining and chestpadding of coatfronts. Securelytack the pads tothe interlining andchest padding only.

Make buttonholes.

Finished appear-ance. The button-holes shall beslean cut, wellmade, well workedover gimp to fit 40line insigniabuttons. Thestitching of themttonholes shall~e securely caughtin the basic mater-ial. The gimp andLhread shall be?ulled through to:he underside of:he front. The?urling of themttonholes shall

Inch


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Make buttonholes.(cent’d)

be on the outsideof the fronts. Theinside edge of theeyelet end of thebuttonhole shall be5/8 inch from thefront edge the ofcoat. The button-holes shall be cutfirst type.

a. Remove thebasting on theunstitched portionof the braid.

b. Mark the leftfront for thelocation of sevenbuttonholes. Themarks for the topand bottom button-holes shall be inaccordance with thepatterns. Themarks for theremaining fivebuttonholes shallbe evenly spaced.

c. Make onehorizontal eyeletend, square bartype buttonhole,cut 1-1/8 incheslong, at each ofthe marks.

3ut-ton-lole


60 perbutton-hole(notinclud-ing

bar-tack)

B(silk)

81


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing recfuirements.

Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch , Per Ndl&

63.

64a

ODeration

Make buttonholes.(cent’d)

d. Securely bar-tack the end ofeach buttonhole,catching the endsof the gimp andthread in thebartack. Trim theends of the gimpand thread.

e. Rebaste theunstitched portionof the braid aroundthe buttonholes andcompletely stitchthat portion of thebraid through thefacing as shown onfigure 3.

Seam shoulders.

Finished appear-ance. The shoulderseam shall finishwithout a distortedappearance.

a. Join the back tothe fronts at theshoulders with a3/8 inch seam,working in thefullness on theback in accordancewith good manufac-turing practice.

m

3ar-:ack

301

Pvpe

SSa-1

82

Inch

21 perbartack

12-16

(silk)

Bob=

A

A

L


MIL-C-82172B(MC)



64.

ODeration

Seam shoulders.(cent’d)

b. Spread open theshouider se= andpress flat, hold-ing the shouldersshort and exercis-ing much care inpressing in ordernot to effect adistorted appear-ance in thefinished seam. Thepressing shall beaccomplished with aheated pressingiron or pressingmachine over asuitable block.

c. Position thefront lining andcoat front inter-lining at the neck,shoulder andarmhole edges ofthe fronts. Basteall plies togetheron the outsidealong the frontadge of armhole andsontinue along theshoulder seam andyorge, catching theshoulder pad in thebasting. Turn the~oat on the inside.

I’vpe

flopper

Per NdlInch

83


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturincy reauirements.

Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch Per Ndl~ Operation ~ me Inch

65.

66”.

Baste back lininqand facinq-lininqassemblv atshoulders.

a. Turn under andlap the shoulderedge of the backlining on thefacing-liningassembly. Bastelining to the coatalong the foldededge of the backlining with the topend of the chestpleat caught in thebasting.

Seam neckline withsize label aridcoathanqer. “

Finished appear-ance. The necklineshall finish smoothand flat, withouttwists I pleats, orpuckers. The sizelabel shall bepositioned betweenthe ends of thecoat hanger. Theends of the coathanger shall bepositioned so that,in the finishedcoat, the hanger~pening shall be 2fl/8 inches longwhen measured along

{and

84


MIL-C-82172B(MC)



66.

Per NdlODeration Type

SSa-1

85

Inch

12-16

Seam neckline withsize label and coathanaer. (cent’d)

the lower edge ofcollar lining.

a. Join facings andback lining to coatat the neckline,from collar notchto collar notch,with a 1/4 inchseam. The upperedge of the sizelabel and the endsof the hanger shallbe positioned andcaught in thestitching at theinside center back.

b. Press theneckline of thecoat smooth andflat with a heatedpressing iron orpressing machine.

67. Set collar with1ininq.

Finished appear-ance. The collarshall be carefullyjoined to the coatwithout distortionof the collar.


MIL-C-82172B(MC)



67.

Per Ndl Bob&EU&_

A

ODeration me

LSa-1

86

Inch

12-16 1(silk]

Set collar with

M“ (cent’d)

a. Mark the neck-line on the inside3/8 to 1/2 inchfrom top edge forproper positioningof collar.

b. Position thecollar with thelower edge lappedon the outside topedge of the coat atthe mark.

c. Seam the collarto the coat fromend to end as closeas possible to, butnot on top of, thestitching for thepiping at the loweredge of the collar.The stitching shallnot be through thecollar lining.

68. Set shoulderstraps.

Finished appear-ance. The shoul-der straps shall beuniformly stitchedto the coat withouttwists, puckers~pleats, or otherdistortions. On thefinished coat, the


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturincy reuuirements.

Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Set shoulderstraps. (cent’d)

straps, includingthe piping, shallbe 2-3/8 ~ 1/8inches wide at thearmhole seam andshall taper to 1-3/4 ~ 1/8 incheswide at the button-hole eyelet end.

a. Position theshoulder strapswith the back edge1/4 to 1/2 inch tothe back of theshoulder seam atthe armhole andwith the roundedend of the straps,m the finishedooat, 1/4 to 3/8inch from the lowersdge of the collar.

b. Seam the shoul-ier straps to the~oat 1/4 inch fromthe armhole edge.lWim the shoulderstraps even withthe armhole whereIecessary. Turnthe coat on theinside.

301 SSa-1

B7


12-16 A(silk;


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch- Per Ndl Bob

Operation

;et sleeves.

?inished appear-mce. The armhole~leeve seam shall~inish without:wists, gathers,?uckers, or pleats.

1. Position sleevem outside of coatit the armhole,with backarm seam>f sleeve matching:he side back seam,md the notch in:op sleeve andEront matching.

~. Join the sleeveto the coat with a3/8 inch seam,:atching the end ofthe shoulder strapsin the stitching.

c. Press the entirearmhole smooth andflat with a heatedpressing iron,exercising care notto stretch thearmhole. Spreadopen upper part ofthe armhole-sleeveseam from thebackarm seam of thesleeve to approx-imately midwaybetween shoulderseam and notch at

A --

;Sa-1

88

.L1lLS1

12-16


MIL-C-82172B(MC)



69<

70.

Operation

Set sleeves.(cent’d)

the front edge ofarmhole. Presssmooth and flatwith a heatedpressing iron.

d. Fold the excessmaterial at thearmhole pit up tothe line ofstitching of thearmhole sleeveseam, forming ahinge effect. Thefold shall extendfrom the armholenotch to approxi-mately 4 inchesfrom the backarmseam.

e. Press the foldsmooth and flatwith a heatedpressing iron.

Baste armhole.

3. Baste around theantire armhole onthe inside, holdingthe back lining,shoulder pad, andfront lining inqlace. DistributeEullness evenly.hrn the coat onthe outside.

L’vpe

Iopper

89

Per NdlInch


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing requ irements.

Seam/Opn Stch Stch~

70.

71.

72.

ODeration

Baste armhole?(cent’d)

b. Baste aroundoutside armholeadjacent to thearmhole seam,forcing out thearmhole i.n thebasting. Thebasting shallextend from thebackarm seam of

the

sleeve to the frontnotch of coat.

Set underarmshields.

a. Baste or tackunderarm shields atthe base of thearmhole.

Stitch sleeve-headpads and lininqs atarmhole.

Finished appear-ance. The armholeshall not be dis-torted or puckereddue to stitchingthe sleeve-headpads and linings atthe armhole.

Pype

3opper

90

Stch ThreadPer Ndl—Inch


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE 1. Manufacturing re quirements.

Seam/Opn Stch Stch

Operation

Stitch sleeve-headpads and lininczsatarmhole. (cent’d)

a. Position thesleeve-head pad onthe sleeve with thefolded edge of thepad approximately1/8 inch back fromthe raw edge of thearmhole-sleeve seamand with the oneend of the padmatching the notchin the fronts.

b. Stitch thesleeve-head pad tothe sleeve front,end to end, throughthe armhole-sleeveseam allowance, 1/8inch from thefolded edge of thepad, catching thefront and backlinings and theshoulder pad in thestitching.Continue stitchingthe linings aroundthe remainder ofthe armhole, catch-ing the underarmshields in thestitching andtrimming away theexcess material.

T’vpe

SSa-1

91


4-6

BobLEHL

A


MIL-C-82172B(MC)



72.

73.

74.

Operation

Stitch sleeve headpads and lininus atarmhole. (cent’d)

C. The underarmshield may bebasted to thearmhole prior tostitching.

Tack underarmshield to lininq.

Finished appear-ance. The -tackingfor the underarmshield shall finishapproximately 1/2inch from theseamed edges.

a. Tack theunderside of theunderarm shield tothe body liningalong the side andbottom edges.

Fell back lininq

and facinq-lininqassembly atshoulders.

a. Fell the backlining and thefacing-liningassembly togetherat the shoulders.Place the stitchingover the foldededge of the back

‘me

92

Per NdlInch

4-6

8-10

(sflk)

(stlk)


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/Opn Stch Stch~

74(

75,

Operation

Fell back lininqand facina-lininqassemblv atshoulders. (cent’d)

lining and securethe top end of thechest pleat in thefelling.

b. Fell the foldededge of facing tothe piping alongthe top edge fromcollar notch tofront edge of coat.

Fell sleeve lininqat armhole.

a. Position thesleeve lining atthe armhole withthe back andforearm seams ofthe sleeve andsleeve liningmatching.

b. Turn under themmhole edge of thesleeve lining. Lapthe lining on themtside of theCront ‘andbackLinings and the top~dge of the under-~rm shield.Fell the sleeveLining to the coataround the entire

iand

Iand

93


8-10

8-10

(s;lk)

(stlk)


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. ‘Manufacturing requirements.

Seam/ .Opn :Stch Stch&

75.

(heration

Fell sleeve lininqat armhole.(cent’d)

armhole. Place thestitching over thefolded edge of thesleeve lining,catching the under-arm shield in thefilling, anddistribute thefullness inaccordance withgood commercialpractice. Back-stitch the lowerarmhole edge frombackarm seam of thesleeve to the frontedge of the shield.

OR

c. Machine stitchthe lower edge ofthe sleeve lining,at the armhole, onthe inside, fromforearm seam tobackarm seam. Handfell the remainingportion asspecified inoperations 74babove.

OR

m

301

J!vpe

SSa-1

94


12-16

ri


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturincf reuuirements.

Seam/Opn Stch Stch&

75.

76.

Oberation

Fell sleeve lininqat armhole.(cent’d)

d. Machine stitchthe lower edge ofthe sleeve liningat the armhole, onthe inside, fromforearm seam tobackarm seam.Stitch the remain-ing portion of thesleeve lining atthe armhole withmachine simulatedhand felling.

NOTE : It isrequired that thestiulated handfelling produced bymachine shall beequal to or betterthan the handfelling.

Mark for eyelets onshoulders.

a. Mark eachshoulder for thelocation of oneeyelet, for remov-able insigniabuttons, to alignwith the eyelet ofbuttonhole in theshoulder straps.On the finishedcoat, the shoulder

4a-:hine

95


8-10(s~lk)


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch Per&

Ndl= -e Inch

76,

77.

78.

Operation

Mark for evelets onshoulders. (cent’d)

strap shall liesmooth and flatwithout twisting orbulging.

Make evelets.

Finished appear-ance. The eyeletshall be wellworked with purlingof the eyelet onthe outside of theshoulder. Theeyelets shallfinish with a 1/8inch diameteropening.

a. Make one eyeletat the mark on eachshoulder throughall plies.

Sew hooks and evesto collar.

Finished appear-ance. The hooksshall be positionedon the collar sothat, in the fin-ished coat, the topand bottom hooksshall be respect-ively approx-tiately1/4 inch from topand bottom edges

Eye-let

96

22 pereyelet

!4(silk]


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturincf recfuirements.


78.

Per NdlOperation m

Hand

Hand

Hand

IRme

97

Inch

Sew hooks and eyesto collar. (cent’d)

of collar. Theremaining hookshall be midwaybetween top andbottom hooks. Theeyes shall bepositioned toengage the hooks,effecting a flat,smooth closure atfront of collarwithout misalign-ment or gapping.

a. Position andsecurely sew threehooks to the rightend and three eyesto the left end ofthe collar.

16 perhookand eye

[ S..:)blethread )

(s;lk)

(s;lk)

79. Finish collar.

a. Securely tackthe lower cornersof the collar tothe coat.

8-10

b. Turn under theend and top edge ofthe lining at theright end of thecollar. Positionthe folded edge ofthe lining underthe hook. Fell thefolded end of thecollar lining to

8-10


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch& ODeration ~

79< Finish collar.(cent’d)

the end of thecollar and continuefelling along thetop folded edge tothe end of thestitching joiningthe lining to thecollar.

c. Turn under andfell the lower edgeof the collarlining to the coatfrom end to end.Catching the turnedunder portion ofthe lining at theright end in thefelling.

NOTE : The loweredge of collarlining may bebasted to coat

prior to felling.

d. Fell the collarextension tab tothe left end of thecollar. Continuealong the foldedtop edge to the end~f the stitchingjoining the liningLo the’collar.

Hand

Hand

Hand

L5mePer NdlInch

8-10

8-10

8-10

[s$lk)

[sflk)

[s$lk )

98


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ ODeration ~ me

79.

80.

81.

Finish collar.(cent’d)

e. Turn the collareyelet covers tothe inside of thecollar. Fell thefront edge from thetop to bottom edge.Continue thefelling along thebottom edge for adistance of 1/2inch from frontedge.

Clean coatPull any

&ting thread,trim and remove anyloose ends ofthread; and removeany spots, stainsand tickets withoutinjury to thematerial.

Press coat.

a. The coat shallbe well pressedthroughout with aheated pressingiron or pressingmachine of a typesuitable to obtainthe desired shapeand appearance inaccordance withgood manufacturingpractices.

Iand

Per NdlInch

8-10(sflk)

99


~ MIL-c-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturin~ re uuirements.


81.

ODeration

Press coat.(cent’d)

b. Press the frontssmooth and flat,straightening andshaping the frontedges and workingfullness towardsthe chest. Careshall be exercisedin pressing thefronts so that thebottom edges areeven.

c. Press the entirecollar smooth andflat.

d. Press the frontson a body machine,shrinking andproperly shapingthe chest.

e. Press the sides,working the full-ness towards theback.

f. Press the back~mooth and flat,removing all full-xess.

~. Press thesleeves smooth andElat, creasing at:he backarm andEorearm. The

00

Per NdlInch


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE 1. Manufacturing requirements.

Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ Operation ~ me

81. Press coat.(cent’d)

backarm creaseshall be on thebackarm seam. Theforearm and backarmcreases shall ex-tend uniformly to apoint approximately3 to 3-1/2 inchesbelow the base ofthe armhole.

h. Block the shoul-ders to remove thefullness and pressshoulders smooth ona shoulder shapingmachine. Press theshoulder strapsflat.

i. Press thearmholes solid fromthe inside, creas-ing the armhole atthe front, andcreasing the excessmaterial at thearmpit. The armpitand back of thearmhole shall beheld short whilepressing.

j. Block thearmholes on apressing buck,shrinking the topsleeves.

101

Per NdlInch


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch& ~ Operation ~ -e

814

82.

Press coat.(cent’d)

k. Press lower edgeof coat smooth,flat and even.

1. Remove allwrinkles andimpressions fromunder shoulderstraps.

m. Press bodylining throughout,removing all backwrinkles andcreases. Press thefront and backlining pleatssmooth and flat.

n. Remove all glossmarks.

D. Remove anywrinkles andcreases missed byprevious pressing~perations.

Mark for belt 100Pbuttons.

a. Mark each sideseam for theLocation of oneremovable 27 lineinsignia button toproperly align with

102

Per NdlInch


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Seam/ Stch ThreadOpn Stch Stch~ ODeration ~

82.

83.

84.

Mark for belt looPbuttons. (cent’d)

the eyelet button-hole in the beltloop .

Cut openina forbelt looP buttons.

a. Cut anapproximately 1/4inch vertical longopening at the markon each side seam.The opening shallbe made through theside seam of thewool parts of thecoat only.

b. Securely tack orbartack each end ofthe opening.

Mark for buttons onthe riqht front.

a. Mark the loca-tion for sewingseven 40 lineinsignia buttons tothe right front ofthe coat toproperly engagewith the button-holes on the leftfront. The markfor the top buttonshall be in line

Handm301

l!vpe

L03

Per NdlInch

2-5

4-6

Bob=

A


\MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. ~Manufacturinq reauirements.

Seam/Opn Stch Stch~

84.

85.

Operation

@rk for buttons onkhe riqht front.(cent’d)

with right frontsnd of collar. Theremaining buttonsshall be in verti-zal alignment withthe top button.

littachand sew onbuttons.

Finished appear-ance. The buttonsshall be alignedwith the button-holes to secure aBmooth and complete~losure withoutbulging ormisalignment.

a. Insert the shankof one 27 lineinsignia buttonthrough each eyeleton shoulders, orna-mental sleevepatch, and throughcut openings at theside seams.

b. Attach rein-forcement disc (see3.3.5) through theshank of buttons oneach side seam.Secure buttons toshoulders, side

Pvpe

104



MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing recruirements.


85.

Oneration

lttach and sew on>uttons. (cent’d)

seam, andnmamental sleeve)atch with a metalCing toggle.

.-0 Button beltLoop.

i. Sew one 40 lineLnsignia button at>ach of the marksm the right front:hrough all plies.

>-. The insigniamtton on the frontshall be sewn with~he head of the>agle upright.

l?vpe

LOS

Per NdlInch

8 wraps(doublethread )


i

MIL-C-82172B (MC)

3.7 Finished measurements. The finished coat shall conformto the measurements shojvnin table II.

TABLE II. Coat measurements 3/.

Back SleeveSize Breast ~/ length ~/ length ~/

II Short

inches inches inches34 35 28-3/4 17-1/235 36 28-7/8 17-1/236 37 29 17-1/237 38 29-1/8 17-1/238 39 29-1/4 17-1/2

40 29-3/8 17-1/2X 41 29-1/2 17-1/241 42 29-5/8 17-1/242 43 29-3/4 17-1/244 45 30 17-1/246 47 30-1/4 17-1/2

Regular

inches inches inches34 35 29-3/4 18-1/235 36 29-7/8 18-1/236 37 30 18-1/237 38 30-1/8 18-1/2

30-3/8 18-1/2% :: 30-3/8 18/1/240 41 30-1/2 18-1/241 42 30-5/8 18-1/242 30-3/4 18-1/244 :: 31 18-1/246 47 31-1/4 18-1/2

106


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

TABLE II. Coat measurements ~/ - Continued.

Back SleeveSize Breast z/ length s/ length ~/

Long

inches inches inches34 35 30-3/4 19-1/235 36 30-7/8 19-1/236 37 31 19-1/237 38 31-1/8 19-1/238 39 31-1/4 19-1/239 40 31-3/8 19-1/240 41 31-1/2 19-1/241 42 31-5/8 19-1/242 43 31-3/4 19-1/2

45 32 19-1/2:: 47 32-1/4 19-1/2

Extra Long

inches inches inches34 35 32-1/4 20-1/235363738

:;41424446

36373839404142434547

32-3/832-1/232-5/832-3/432-7/83333-1/833-1!433-1/233-3/4

20-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/220-1/2

~/ Tolerance for all measurements ~ 3/8 inch.~/ Breast measurements shall be taken, with coat buttoned, from

folded edge to folded edge in line with the pit of thearmhole; multiply by two.

~/ Back length measurement shall be taken along the center backseam, from the lower edge of the collar to the piped bottomedge of coat.

~/ Sleeve lengthseam from thesleeve.

measurement shall be taken along the forearmpit of the armhole to the bottom edge of the

107


t

MIL-C-82172B(MC)

3.8 Workmanship. The finished coats shall conform to thequality and grade of product established by this specification.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwisespecified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor isresponsible for the performance of all inspection requirements asspecified herein.: Except as otherwise specified in the contractor purchase order, the contractor may use his own or any otherfacilities suitable for the performance of the inspectionrequirements specified herein, unless disapproved by theGovernment. The Government reserves the right to perform any ofthe inspections set forth in this specification where inspectionsare deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform toprescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Responsibility for compliance. ml items shall meetall requirements of section 3 and 5. The inspection set forth inthis specification shall become a part of the contractor’soverall inspection system or quality program. The absence of anyinspection requirements in the specification shall not relievethe contractor of the responsibility for ensuring that allproducts or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptancecomply with all requirements of the contract. Samplinginspection, as part of manufacturing operations, is an acceptablepractice to ascertain conformance to requirements, however, thisdoes not authorize submission of known defective material, eitherindicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptdefective material.

4.2 Classification of inspections. The inspection-requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 404).

b. Component and material inspection (see 4.5.1).

c. In-process inspection (see 4.5.1.2).

4.3 Inspection condition. Unless otherwise specified, allinsfiections shall’be performed in accordance with the testconditions specified in table III.

4.4 First article inspections. When a first article isrequired (see 6.2), it shall be examined for the defectsspecified in 4.5.2.1 through 4.5.2.5. The presence of any defector failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of thefirst article. The number of units to be inspected shall bespecified by the contracting officer (see 6.2).

108


MIL-c-82172B(MC)

4.5 Quality conformance inspection.

4.5.1 Component and material inspection. In accordancewith 4.1 above, components and materials shall be tested inaccordance with all the requirements of referencedspecifications, figures and standards unless otherwise excluded,amended, modified or qualified in this specification orapplicable purchase document. In addition to testing provisionscontained in subsidiary specifications, figures and standards,testing shall be performed on the components listed in table IIIfor the characteristics noted. Wherever applicable, tests shallbe conducted in accordance with FED-STD-191. When the “Resultsreported as” columns are not indicated, they shall be reported asrequired by the referenced test method. 1111test reports shallcontain individual values utilized in expressing the finalresults.

4.5.1.1 SamDlina for testing. Unless otherwise specifiedin subsidiary specifications, sampling shall be in accordancewith MIL-STD-105. The unit for expressing lot sizes and sampleunit for testing each component shall be in accordance subsidiaryspecifications and as follows:

Lot sizes expressed Sample unit forComDonent as testinaCloth, cotton yards 2 yard full widthbuckram, (collarinterlining)

Padding for collar yards 1/4 yard full widthHook and eye 100 each 2 each, hook and eye

4.5.1.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall beperformed during manufacture of the end item to ascertain thatthe operations are performed as specified herein. The Governmentreserves the right to determine the acceptability of constructionmethods not performed in accordance with the specifiedrequirements for operations or subassemblies.

4.5.2 Examination of end item. The end item shall beexamined for the defects listed in 4.5.2.1 through 4.5.2.5. Thesample unit shall be one completely fabricated coat. Theinspection level shall be II (see 6.5).

109


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

●

dOi

WsO(.J

0In

omLi

.,.

110


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

..

1A

wo●

●

mm

md

\\

\0

1[

q@l

1

d4.

m<.

eW

Q.

.●

mm

m.

..

mm

m

.HHH

I

111


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

.I

wr-i

.m

●

m

Wwwww

wl-ldrlddd

..

..

..

W)mml%md

..

..

..

mmmmmm

.HHH

\w+

\wA

‘d

mMa)

WI

wo

II

112


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

nw

tial

a)

24JIdii


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

4.5.2.1 Classification of defects. All defects shall beclassified as indicated below, except those numbered 1 through 25in classification column which shall be classified as follows:

Major defect - When seriously affecting appearanceor serviceability.

Minor A defect - When not seriously affectingappearance or serviceability.

4.5.1.2 General defects. General defects shall beclassified as follows:

ClassificationExamine Defect Major (*) Minor

Buttonholes(construc-tion)

I

a. One or more omitted, added,or wrong type.

b. Not corresponding to size ofbutton:

too small, not permittingbutton to enterbuttonhole.too large, 3/8 inch ormore longer than thediameter of button(measured at inside ofpurling).

c. Buttonhole not securelycaught on fabric, causingstitching to pull away fromfabric.

d. Bartack missing or loose on:one buttonhole.two or more buttonholes.

101

102

103

104

— A

201

202

114


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Classification

Buttons orring toggles

Defect ti (*) MinorExamine~

e.

f.

9“

h.

i.

j“

k.

1.

a.

b.

Bartack misplaced, notserving intended purpose on:

one buttonhole.two or more buttonholes.

One or more broken stitchesin:

one buttonhole.two or more buttonholes

More than 2 skipped stitchesin:

one buttonhole.two or more buttonholes.

Ragged edges, effectingappearance; or exposedinterlining not colored withreddish indelible ink.

llnyuncut buttonhole.L

Gimp omitted in one or morebuttonholes; or end of gimpnot pulled through tounderside.

Stitches per buttonhole (notincluding bartack) less thanthe minimum specified:

one or two stitches.three or more stitches.

One or more buttonholesfinished with purling on theunderside.

One missing, loose, broken,defective, or improper sizeor type.

Two or more missing, loose,defective, or improper sizeor type.

115

105

106

107

.

301

302

303

304


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ExamineClassification

Defect - (*) m

NOTE: B1sharp, rough,scratches; de]shanks; or ar{

Clearness

Componentsand assembly

Cutting

c. One or more buttons sewnwith the head of the eaglein other than uprightposition.

tons shall be considered defectiwracked, or split edges; unsound ss; blemishes or imbedded foreignpoorly plated or badly shaded.

a.

b.

c.

a.

b.

a.

One or more spots or stains,of a permanent nature,clearly noticeable:

on the outside.on the inside.

One or more removable spotsor stains clearlynoticeable:

on the outside.on the inside.

Threads ends ‘not trimmedthroughout garment, or oneor more bastings notremoved, or two or moreshade tickets not removed.

Any component part orrequired operation omitted(unless otherwise classifiedherein).

Any defective component ordefect of assembly (notherein classified).

hy component part of thebasic wool material not cutin accordance withdirectional lines onpatterns or in accordancewith the specificationrequirements.

116

ifiezbte

108

.09

—

210

211

305

306

307


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationExamine

~~Defect ti (*) Minor

Eyelet(construc-tion)

Hooks andeyes

b.

c.

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

9“

h.

a.

b.

c.

Piping materialbias.

Any lining partaccordance with

cut on the

not cut indirectional

lines on patterns, or inaccordance with specifica-tion requirements.

One or more omitted oradded.

Wrong type.

Eyelet not securely caughton fabric, causing stitchingto pull away from fabric.

Diameter of inside openingless than 1/8 inch or morethan 1/4 inch.

One or

One orin:

onetwo

more eyelets uncut.

more broken stitches

eyelet.or more eyelets.

More than two skippedstitches in one or moreeyelets.

One or more eyelets finishedwith purling on theunderside.

One hook or eye omitted.

TWO or more hooks or eyesomitted.

Not specified type or size.

117

110

111

112

—

212

213

214

215

216

217

218

219

308

309

310


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationExamine Defect l!@l@ (*) Minor

Materialdefects anddamages.

NOTE: Maclassified aswhich definiteconspicuouslynonweakening cnegligible efffollows:

MatezWorkn

d.

e.

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

Hook or eye not securelytacked to ends’of collar.

Not aligned, causing collarends to be uneven by 1/4inch or more when front isbuttoned and hooks and eyesare fastened.

Any weakening defects suchas smash, multiple float, orloose slub.

Wy hole.

Shade bar, unsightly slub,etc. , affecting appearance:

on outside.on inside.

Scissorsior knife cut, tear,mend, or burn.

Needle chews that maydevelop into a hole.

>rial defects and workmanship dama~dicated above only when the condi~ weakens the fabric or when it is]cated as to be clearly noticeable~ditions which are inconspicuous a:t on serviceability are to be cla

al defectsnship damages

No defectMinor B def

!20

!21

!22

;0 bme

ling

1s

Dr

118


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationExamine

~

Pressing

Defect w (*) Minor

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

9“

h.

i.

j=

k.

1.

m.

Burned or scorched.

Pressing omitted entiregarment.

Armhole stretched.

Poorly pressed (unlessotherwise indicated).

Basting or pressingimpressions not removed onmajor portion of coat.

Gloss not removed on majorportion of coat.

Armholes not blocked orpoorly blocked, affectingappearance.

Edges bulky; i.e., notpressed solid, affectingappearance.

Inside of armhole notcreased as required.

Sleeve not creased at frontor backarm seam.

Wrinkles or pressingimpressions not removedunder side or center backseam allowance.

Linings not pressed smooth.

Armhole seam not pressedopen across top as required.

—

1

)

220

221

222

223

224

225

226

227

228

311

312

119


MIL-c-82172B(MC)


Seams andstitchings

a. Accuracy of seaming:1. Any seam twisted,

puckered, or pleated,affecting appearance.

2. Part of garment caught inany unrelated operationor stitching.

3. Unsightly hand felling orblindstitching exposed onoutside of coat affectingappearance.

4. Ends of all stitching(when not caught in otherseams or stitching) notbackpacked or back-stitched as required.

5. Wrong color of thread ortwo shades of thread usedon outside of coat,affecting appearance.

b. Gage of stitching (edge orraised stitching):1. Irregular; i.e., unevenly

gaged, or variousstitchings not uniform,affecting appearance.

2. Beyond range of widthspecified; or varies morethan 1/16 inch when norange is specified.

c. Open seams:1. On outside:

up to 1/4 inchinclusive.more than 1/4 inch butnot more than 1/2inch.more than 1/2 inch.

2. On inside:more than 1/2 inch(except machinefelling).

120

113

114

—

10

11

229

230

231

232

233

313

314


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationExamine Defect Mafor (*) Minor

NOTE: Orskipped or rur

NOTE: Raat places whezedges not caug

up to 1/2 inchinclusive (exceptmachine felling).up to 1 inch inclusive(machine felling).more than 1 inch(machine felling).

or more broken stitches or two or~ff stitches constitute an open se

d. Raw edges:1. On

2. On

outside:up to 1/8 inchinclusive.more than 1/8 inch butnot more than 1/4inch.more than 1/4 inch.inside:more than 1/8 inch butnot more than 1/4inch.more than 1/4 inch.

edges shall be classified as suchan edge is required to be turnedt in stitching shall be classified

e. Run offs (see classificationof open seams).

f. Stitch tension:1. Loose tension resulting

in loose seam.2. Loose tension on raised

or edge stitching,resulting in looselyexposed bobbin or topthread.

morm.

115

wheride.as ~

116

.

c

t)

~e

234

ntin

235

236

3y oZawsea

237

315

316

Ous

317

318

cur

s.

121


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Examine

NOTE: PU

puckering is epull in length

NOTE: Toportion of sea

Shaded parts

4.5.1.3defects on outclassified as

ClassificationDefect Ma50r (*) Minor

3. Tight tension (stitchesbreak when normal strainis applied).

cering is evidence of tight tensioLdent, the inspector shall test seke direction of seam.

g. Stitches per inch (excludinglabels).1. Less than minimum

specified:one or two stitches.three.stitches.four or more stitches.

~e scored only if condition exists●

h.

i.

a.

b.

c.

Stitch and seam type:1. Wrong stitch or seam

type.

Stitching skipped or broken(on edge or raised stitchingwhen seam is seamed, turned,and stitched):

1/4 inch or more but notmore than 1/2 inch.more than 1/2 inch.

Any outside part shaded.

Any lining part badly shadedexcept sleeve lining.

Sleeve lining parts badlyshaded, or.parts not -matching each other.

>tailed defects (outside of coat).Lde of coat with coat buttoned on>11OWS :

122

117

,n~

118

m :

De>rm

srti

238

c

239

240

241

ad11 k


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationExamine Defect Maior (*) Minor

Collar (con-struction andsetting)

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

9“

h.

i.

j.

k.

Interlining omitted.

Interlining tight ortwisted, causing puckers oncollar, affectingappearance.

Tight at joining to front orback, causing puckers orpleats at neck of coat,affecting appearance.

Piping irregular, affectingappearance.

Collar endsfastened.

Collar ends

overlapping

spread open

when

morethan 3/8 inch when fastened.

Front finished ends ofcollar uneven in width by3/16 inch or more.

One ply of outer basicmaterial.

Binding strip at top orbottom edge of interliningomitted.

Binding strip at top orbottom edge of interliningother than materialspecified.

Binding strip at top edge ofinterlining positioned morethan 1/8 inch beyond the topedge of the piping on theouter ply of the collar.

119

120

—

13

&

242

243

244

245

246

247

248

249

123


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Examine

Alignment offront but-tons andbuttonholes

Length ofbuttonedfronts

ClassificationDefect Major (*) Minor

1.

m.

n.

o.

P“

a.

a.

Binding strip at the topedge of interlining ir-regular in width, affectingappearance; or not exposedbeyond top edge of piping onouter ply of collar.

Collar irregular in width by1/4 inch or more.

Center of eyelets fromfinished ends of collar:

lessthan 1-3/8 inchesbut not less than 1-1/4inches.more than 1-5/8 inchesbut not more than 1-3/4‘inches.less than 1-1/4 inches ormore than 1-3/4 inches.

One or both eyelets off-center with top and bottomedges of collar by more than1/4 inch.

Collar off-center by morethan 3/8 inch.

Not aligned, causing anoticeable bulge or twist onthe fronts when buttoned,affecting appearance.

Left front at corner shorterthan right front at bottomby:

more than 1/8 inch butnot more than 1/4 inch.more than 1/4 inch. 121

—

242

243

244

245

246

247

322

323

324

124


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Shoulder(construc-tion)

Shoulder pads

Shoulderstraps

b.

c.

a.

a.

b.

c.

a.

b.

c.

d.

Left front at corner longerthan right front by:

more than 1/4 inch butnot more than 3/8 inch.more than 3/8 inch.

Right front at cornerexposed beyond edge of leftfront by more than 1/8 inch.

Improperly joined or set,causing shoulder or back totwist.

Not completely caught inarmhole tacking.

Misplaced, not serving theintended purpose; i.e.~ toofar back or too far forward.

One or both pad omitted.

Misplaced; i.e., one strapfurther forward or back fromposition of other strap,affecting appearance.

Misplaced, so that it willnot lie flat when buttoned,causing bulge or twist onstrap.

Poorly shaped.

Shoulder seam exposed beyondthe back edge of theshoulder strap (exceptrounded end).

—

14

15

248

249

250

251

252

253

254

325

326

125


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Examine

e.

f.

9“

h.

i.

j=

ClassificationDefect ~Major (*) Minor

Width of shoulder strap atarmhole seam (includingpiping):

less than 2-1/4 inchesbut not less than 2-1/8inches.more than 2-1/2 inchesbut not more than 2-5/8inches.less than 2-1/8 inches ormore than 2-5/8 ,inches.

Width of shoulder strapacross center of buttonholeeyelet (including piping):

less than 1-5/8 inchesbut not less than 1-1/2inches.more than 1-7/8 inchesbut not more than 2inches.less than 1-1/2 inches ormore than 2 inches.

Rounded end of shoulderstrap positioned less than1/4 inch or more than 3/8inch from collar edge.

Piping irregular in width,affecting appearance.

Upper side of strap full ortwisted, affectingappearance.

Back edge of strap less than1/4 inch or more than 1/2inch from shoulder seam atarmhole.

—

255

256

157

327

328

329

330

331

332

333

126


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Examine

Position ofshoulderstrap buttonand button-hole.

Armholes(construc-tion)

ClassificationDefect Malor (*) Minor

a.

b.

c.

d.

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

Button not aligned withbuttonhole causing a bulgeor twist on strap or puckerson shoulders, affectingappearance.

Buttons not uniformly set bymore than 1/4 inch.

Buttonhole 1/4 inch or moreoff center.

Buttonhole from outer edgeof piping:

less than 5/8 inch, butnot less than 1/2 inch,or more than 3/4 inch.less than 1/2 inch.

Badly stretched, affectingappearance.

Taped too tight, causingpuckering around armholeseam, affecting appearance.

Crooked seam, affectingappearance.

Tape stitching exposed andvisible on outside surface.

Sleeve-head pads notcompletely tacked toarmholes; or misplaced, notserving intended purpose.

One or both sleeve-head padsomitted.

&—

16

17

258

259

260

261

262

263

264

334

335

127


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationExamine Defect MinorMaior (*) ._

Sleeves a. Setting and hang:1. Sleeve fullness

misplaced, affectingappearance.

2. Backarm seam of sleevenot matching side backseam by:

more than 1/4 inch butnot more than 1/2inch.more than 1/2 inch.

3. Hang of sleeves on thesame coat in oppositedirection by more than 2inches.

4. Sleeve tight in armhole,i.e., roll effect notpresent.

b. Sleeve lining:1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Twisted, tight, or short,causing bulge, twist, orpuckering on outside ofsleeves.Sleeve lining too long,causing lining to sag atbottom more than 1/2inch.Sleeve lining seams outof alignment more.than3/4 inch with sleeveseams at armholes or atbottom of the sleeves.Cut dart on undersleeveomitted.One or both darts notpressed flat.

c. Construction of sleeves:1. Wigan twisted, tight or

pleated, causing ridgesor puckering on outsideof bottom of sleeves,affecting appearance.

128

.22

—

L8

165

266

267

268

269

336

337

338

339


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationExamine Defect Mafior (*) Minor

2. Tacking on bottom turnupto body of sleeve omittedor insecure.

3. Sleeve bottom edge unevenby more than 1/4 inch.

4. Tacking on one or bothsleeve lining seams tosleeve seams omitted orinsecure.

5. Bottom edge of sleevelining turnup less than 1inch or more than 1-1/4inches up from bottomedge of sleeve.

d. Ornamental sleeve pieces:1. Piping irregular,

affecting appearance.2. Ornamental piece stitched

to sleeve too full ortwisted, affectingappearance.

3. Length of ornamentalpiece (including piping):

less than 5-7/8 inchesbut not less then5-5/8 inches.more than 6-1/8 inchesbut not more than 6-3/8 inches.less than 5-5/8 inchesor more than 6-3/8inches.

4. Width at top and bottompts (including piping):

less than 2--3/-8inchesbut not less than 2-1/8 inches.more than 2-5/8 inchesbut not more than 2-7/8 inches.less than 2-1/8 inchesor more than 2-7/8inches

129

—

270

271

272

273

274

340

341

342

343

344

345

346


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Defect Maior (*) Minor

5. Width at center point(including piping):- less than 2-5/8 inches

but not less than 2-3/8 inches.more than 2-7/8 inchesbut not more than 3-l/8inches.less than 2-3/8 inchesor more than3-1/8inches.

6. Poorly shaped, affectingappearance.

7. Set on crookedly,affecting appearance.

8. Misplaced; i.e., onepiece further forward orback from position ofother piece, affectingappearance.

9. Bottom edge nothorizontal with bottomedge of sleeve by morethan 1/8 inch.

100 Ornamental piece stitchedto sleeve with pointedends toward forearm seamof sleeve=

e. Position of buttons. onornamental pieces(measurements made fromcenter of button):1. From top and bottom edges

(including piped edge);less than 3/4 inch butnot less than 1/2inch.more than 1 inch butnot more than 1-1/4inches.less than 1/2 inch ormore than 1-1/4inches.

130

123

—

275

276

277

278

279

280

347

348

349

350


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationExamine Defect Mafior (*) Minor

Body (out-side )

2. Top or bottom button fromscalloped edge includingpiped edge:

less than 5/8 inch butnot less than 3/8inch.more than 7/8 inch butnot more than 1-1/8inches.less than 3/8 inch ormore than 1-1/8inches.

3. Center button frompointed edge (includingpiped edge):

less than 7/8 inch butnot less than 5/8inch.more than 1-1/8 inchesbut not more than1-3/8 inches.less than 5/8 inch ormore than 1-3/8inches.

4. Center button not in linewith pointed edge by morethan 1/4 inch.

a. Fitting of body lining:1. Tight, short, or twisted,

causing fullness or twiston outside of coat,affecting appearance.

b. Fitting of frontinterlinings:1.

2.

Tight, short, or twisted,causing fullness or twiston outside of coat,affecting appearance.

Too full, causing coatfront to have a wavyappearance.

131

281

282

283

351

352

353

354


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Examine

Chest darts

Waist darts

ClassificationDefect u (*) M&llSK

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

One or both omitted.

Ends of one or both dartsnot properly tapered,causing bulge or fullness,affecting appearance.

Darts not of uniform lengthby 1/4 inch or more.

Cut edges of dart not turnedtowards armhole.

Not pressed smooth and flat,affecting appearance.


Top or lower end of one orboth darts not properlytapered, causing bulge orfullness, affectingappearance.

Length of darts not uniformin length by 1/4 inch or—more.

Folded edgetoward side

Not pressed

not pressedseam.

smooth and flat.

Alignment of both waistdarts:

top or bottom end out ofhorizontal alignment by1/4 inch or more.

124

125

&—

284

285

286

287

355

356

357

358

359

132


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Examine

Ornamentalfront braid(position,constructionand setting)

ClassificationDefect &UQx (*) Minor

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

9“

h.

i.

j“

One or more rows of braidomitted or added.

One or more rows of braid onleft front not horizontallyaligned with correspondingrow on right front by morethan 1/2 inch.

One or more rows of braidnot formed with a figure 8.

Diameter of figure 8 circleless than 27/32 inch or morethan 7/8 inch.

Stitching of one or morerows of braid not started orended as indicated by figure6.

Stitching on one or morerows of braid not uniform inwidth, affecting appearance.

Ends of stitching on one ormore rows of braid notsecurely tacked.

One or more rows of braidnot lying smooth; i.e.,puckered, twisted, pleatedor having excessivefullness, affectingappearance.

One or more rows of braidset on tight, causingpuckers, twists or pleats onfront.

Braid not pressed smooth orflat.

12(

12;

12$

—

!2

!3

!88

360

361

362

363

133


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

I


Front andbottom edges

k.

1.

m.

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

9“

Braid loop around one ormore buttonholes notproperly positioned,restricting use of thebuttonhole.

Front edge of one or morerows of braid on left frontfinished less than 1/4 inchfrom piping joining seam.

Any row of braid on leftfront out of verticalalignment by more than 1/8inch.

Front edges stretched,affecting appearance.

Tape or piping set on tight,causing puckering on front,affecting appearance.

Front or bottom pipingirregular, affectingappearance.

Bottom edge stretched,puckered, or uneven,affecting appearance.

Bottom corner of left frontpoorly shaped, affectingappearance.

Left front rolling outwardbelow bottom button.

Front edge irregular,affecting appearance.

!4

289

290

291

292

293

294

295

296

364

134


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationDefect u (*) MinorExamine

~

Front facings

Back sidepanel seams

Belt loops(construc-tion andposition)

h.

i.

a.

a.

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

Piping tight on front orbottom edge, causingpuckering outside of coat,affecting appearance.

Left front not dressed asspecified.

Short, tight or twisted,causing fullness or twistson fronts, affectingappearance.

Curved panel seam on back ofcoat stretched or distorted,affecting appearance.

Poorly shaped or not ofuniform shape or size,affecting appearance.

Pointed end of one or bothloops not toward top ofcoat.

Bottom end of one or bothloops out of horizontalalignment with bottom frontbuttonhole by:

more than 3/4 inch belowor more than 3/8 inchabove.

One or both not stitched onthe side seam.

One or both not verticallystraight; i.e. , set on anangle, affecting appearance.

Alignment of both loops:top or bottom end out ofhorizontal alignment bymore than 1/4 inch.

---

—

25

297

298

299

201a

202a

203a

204a

205a

206a


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationExamine Defect u (*) -

Belt loopbuttonholeand button(position andbuttonattachment )

Cut openingfor belt loopbuttons

9“

h.

a.

b.

co

d.

e.

a.

b.

c.

d.

One or more edges notproperly forced out; i.e.,having a fold or lip of 1/8inch or more.

Bottom of loop not centeredon side seam by more than1/4 inch.

Button not aligned withbuttonhole, causing a bulgeor twist on loop or puckerson coat, affectingappearance.

Buttons not uniformly set bymore than 1/4 inch.

Buttonhole 1/4 inch or moreoff center.

Buttonhole from pointed endof loop:

less than 1/2 inch ormore than 3/4 inch.

Reinforcement disc beneathone or both

One or both

Opening notvertically.

One or more

buttons omitted.

omitted.

constructed

ends on one orboth openings not securelytacked.

Opening constructed throughbody lining.

136

129

130

.

207a

208a

~09a

210a

365

366

367

368

369


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Examine

Front but-tonholes(position)

Front buttons(position)

4.5.2.4defects on ins

Right fronteyelet cover(construc-tion,presence andposition)

ClassificationDefect Major (*) Minor

e. Misplaced; i.e., more than1/4 inch from marksindicated by patterns or notpositioned on side seam.

a. Position from front edgeincluding piped edge:

less than 1/2 inch butnot less than 3/8 inch.more than 3/4 inch but notmore than 7/8 inch.less than 3/8 inch ormore than 7/8 inch.

b. More than 1/4 from equalspacing.

c. Top or bottom buttonholepositioned more than 1/2inch from pattern marks.

d. Unevenly spaced from frontedge by more than 3/16 inch.

a. Out of vertical alignment by1/4 inch or more.

b. Center of top button not invertical alignment withright end of collar by 1/4inch or more.

>tailed defects (inside of coatl .le of coat shall be classified as

a. Front raw edges not stitchedtogether prior to seaming toright facing.

b. Upper or lower seamed edgenot hand felled to facing.

let

)11

211Z

2123

~13~

~14d

!15a

!16a

!17a

1

!18a

!19a

370

371

137


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Labels

Hanger

c.

d.

e.

f.

a.

b.

c.

d.

a.

b.

Upper or lower seam edge notsecurely’handstitched tofacing.

Omitted.

Front corner of eyelet coverexposed beyond upper edge ofright front.

Front edge of coverpositioned less than 1/4inch or more than 3/4 inchin from front edge of rightfront.

hy required label missing,incorrect, illegible; orsize label not securelycaught in stitching.

Identification label notstitched on 4 sides.

Bottom edge ofidentification label lessthan 3 inches or more than 5inches from bottom finishededge of coat.

Identification label notstitched to outside of rightfacing.

Hanger omitted or ends notsecurely stitched.

Less than 1-7/8 inches ormore than 2-1/8 inches longmeasured along the loweredge of the collar lining.

138

—

.31

.32

13:

&

20a

!21a

~22i

374

375


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

ClassificationExamine Defect Malor (*) Minor

—

Front facings

Body linings

c.

d.

a.

b.

c.

d.

a.

3.

...

1

Hanger not stitched to neckof coat prior to seamingcollar to neck of coat.

Finished width less than 1/4inch or more than 3/8 inchwide.

Fullness or pleats onfacings between eyelets;buttonholes; or betweenfront edge and eyelet orbuttonholes.

Tacking on back edge to 1 orboth interlinings:

Fel,

omitted. -insecure or incompletefor a distance of morethan 4-1/2 inches belowshoulder seams; or morethan 4 inches abovebottom edge of coat.

ling at bottom edae offront facings or bac~omitted or insecure on oneor both facings.

Felling along folded edge ofone or both facings atcollar notch omitted orinsecure.

Excessive puckering orpleated.

Twisted, not affectingsmoothness on outside ofcoat.

One or both chestshoulder omitted.

139

pleats on

223i

!25,

26;

27z

376

177

78

79


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Classification

Examine

Lining(securingstraps )

Defect MinorMalor (*) _

d.

e.

E.

3“

h.

i.

j“

a.

b.

c.

d.

I

Folded edge of 1 or bothchest pleats facing frontedge of coat.

Pleat omitted at center ofback lining.

Pleat less than 1/2 inch indepth at center of backlining.

Bottom hem less than 5/8inch or more than 7/8 inchwide.

Lining too 10ng; i.e.lexposed beyond bottom edgeof coat.

Facing-1ining seam, sideseams, and side back seamsnot towards back or notpressed smooth and flat.

Waist darts not towards theside seams or not pressedsmooth and flat.

One or both omitted orinsecure.

Less than 1/4 inch or morethan 3/8 inch wide.

One or both positioned morethan 1 inch from side seam.

End of one or both strapsnot finished between thepiping at the bottom edge ofthe coat and the side seamallowance.

—

!ga

30a

312

32i

33i

~

—

80

181

82

383

384

385

140


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

Examine

Serge oroveredgestitching

Underarmshields

ClassificationDefect - (*) l@M2x

e.

f.

9“

a.

b.

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

One or both not folded andstitched across width.

One or both not properlyattached to the lining hemor coat, causing twist ordistortion to either thelining or the coat.

One or both exposed beyondbottom edge of the coat.

Basic material:omitted on one or moreraw edges for seamsjoining fronts and backwhere specified.

Lining joined seams:omitted on one or moreseams where specified.


Not two-piece liningconstruction.

Tacking on one or bothshields along side or bottomedge to body lining omittedor insecure.

Top edge not caught inarmhole tacking or stitchingwhen tacked by hand.

Puckered, pleated, ortwisted.

One or both shieldsmisplaced, not servingintended purpose.

—

234i

235z

236e

237a

238a

239a

386

387

388

389

390

141


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Inside ofarmhole

Collar liningextensionpiece

Collar liningand eyeletcovers

a.

a.

b.

c.

d.

a.

b.

c.

d.

e.

f.

Backstitching at armpit ofarmhole, from backarm seamof sleeve to front edge ofshield, omitted.

Omitted.

Extended less than 1/2 inchor more than 1 inch beyondleft end of collar.

Felling omitted or insecureat end or top edges.

Stitching at top, front andbottom edges, or acrosswidth of collar tab (formingbox stitch) omitted.

Ends of collar lining notsecurely tacked.

One or both eyelet coversomitted.

One or both eyelet coversnot covering eyelet.

Width of collar eyelet lessthan 1-5/8 inches or morethan 1-7/8 inches.

Felling on front edge andalong lower corner of one orboth eyelet covers omitted.

Felling along lower cornersof one or both eyelet coversextending for a distance ormore than 3/4 inch.

—

34

—

40:

:41:

!42i

!43i

!44i

~45(

191

)92

393

394

142


MIL-C-82172B(MC)


Defect Major (*) Minor

g. Top or bottom hookpositioned respectively lessthan 1/4 inch from the topor bottom edges of collar.

h. Remaining hook notpositioned midway betweentop and bottom hook.

— A _B_

395

396

4.5.2.5 Finished measurements. Any measurement deviatingfrom nominal dimensions and tolerance included in table 11 shallbe scored as a size measurement defect. Sleeve lengths uneven bymore than 1/2 inch shall be scored as a size measurement defect.The inspection level shall be S-3 (see 6.5).

4.6 Examination of DreDaration for delivery reuuirements.An examination shall be made to determine compliance withpackaging, packing, and marking requirements of section 5 of thisspecification. Defects shall be scored in accordance with thelist below. The sample unit shall be one shipping containerfully prepared for delivery with the exception that it need notbe sealed. Defects of closure listed below shall be examined onshipping containers fully prepared for deliverv. The lot sizeshall be the number of sfii~pi~ginspection lot. The inspection

Examine Defect

containers in ~he end itemlevel shall be S-3 (see 6.5).

Marking (exterior Omitted; incorrect; illegible; or ofand interior) improper size, location, sequence, or

method of application.

Materials linycomponent missing or damaged.

Workmanship Inadequate application of components suchas incomplete closure of case liners,container flaps, loose strapping, orinadequate stapling. Bulging or distortionof containers.

Contents Number of coats per container is more orless than required.

143


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

4.7 Tests. Tests shall be in accordance with thefollowing:

4.7.1 Metal composition. Chemical composition shall bedetermined in accordance with test method III of FED-STD-151.

4.7.2 Test for tackiness. At room temperature (6C)”Fto80”F), press a piece of tissue paper against the lacqueredsurface for 30 seconds, using any pressure capable of beingexerted by the thumb and two fingers. The tissue shall notadhere to the lacquered surface, and shall fall free whenpressure is released.

4.7.3. @antitv of croldand silver. At least two pieces, 1yard each, shall be assayed for the quality of gold and silver.The quantities of gold and silver may be determined by standardcommercial methods of assay, but in case of dispute, shall bedetermined in accordance with 4.7.3.1 and 4.7.3.2, respectively.

4.7.3.1 Gold content. Boil sufficient braid to bear 1 gramof alloy (accurately weighed) with 60 milliliters (ml) 1:1 nitricacid (HNO~) in a 400 ml beaker using a small flame or hot plate.Continue boiling until all metals except the gold are insolution. Dilute to 200 ml with hot water. Filter through arapid ashless filter paper, and wash several times with hotwater. Take the filter paper with the gold (cutting off anyexcess filter paper), wrap in a 2-inch by 2-inch piece of silver-free lead foil, and roll into a ball. Place the ball in thehollow of a bone ash cupel, and,add lead shot around the ball.Place cupel in a muffle furnace for 1 hour at 1,000”C. Removefrom the furnace, and examine’hollow for flakes of gold,impurities and discolored gold bead. If any are noticed, addadditional lead shot and return cupel to the muffle furnace for 1hour. Otherwise, cool the gold bead and weigh. The gold contentshall be calculated as follows:

Gold Content = W (Au] X 100 = P (Au)Ws

Whereas: W(AU) - Weight of goldWs - Weight of sampleP - Percent of gold

4.7.3.2 Silver content. Dilute the filtrate, from 4.7.3.1to a 1,000 ml volumetric flask, and dilute to the mark. Pipettea 200 ml aliquot from the flask into a 400 ml beaker. Heat toboiling, and add hydrochloric acid (3:100) drop by drop from apipette until precipitation is complete (1 ml of hydrochloricacid solution precipitates about 0.038 grams of silver). Whensolution has cooled and precipitate has settled, determine

144


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

whether precipitation is complete by adding a few drops of thehydrochloric acid (3:100). If solution remains clear, filter ona weighed porcelain Gooch crucible. Wash the precipitate severaltimes with HNO ~ (1:200) and finally with cold water. Protectthe silver chloride from the light, dry in an oven for not lessthan 2 hours, cool and weigh. The silver content shall becalculated as follows:

Silver Content = W [AqCl) X 752.63 X 5Ws

Whereas: W(AgCl) - Weight of silver chlorideWs - Weight of sample minus weight of gold

4.7.3.3 Allov content. AI.loy content is ascertained by thedifference between the gold and silver content.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaqinq. Packaging shall be commercial.

5.1.1 Commercial. Coats shall be packaged to affordadequate protection against physical damage during shipment fromthe contractor to the first receiving activity. The package andquantity per package shall be the same as that normally used bythe contractor for retail distribution.

5.2 Packinq. Packing shall be commercial.

5.2.1 Commercial. Packing containers shall be inaccordance with Uniform Freight Classification Rules; U.S. PostalService Manual; National Motor Freight Classification Rules orregulations of other carriers applicable to the mode oftransportation.

5.3 Markinq. In addition to any special marking requiredby the contract or order, shipping containers shall be marked inaccordance with MIL-STD-129.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general orexplanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The coats described herein are intendedfor wear by enlisted male personnel of the U.S. Marine Corps Drumand Bugle Corps (Drum Major).

145


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents shallspecify the

a.b.c.d.e.

following:

Title, number, and date of this specification.Sizes required (see 1.2).Whether first article is required (see 3.2).Number of coats in first article (see 4.4).Acceptance criteria (see 6.5).

6.3 Standard samples and shade samples. For informationregarding the availability of sample coats and standard shadesspecified, address inquiry to’the procuring activity issuing theinvitation for bids.

6.4 First article. When a “first article is required, itshall be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisionsof FAR 52.209. The first article should be a preproductionsample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriatetype of first article and the number of units to be furnished.The contracting officer should “also include specific instructionsin acquisition documents regarding arrangements for selection,inspection, and approval of ,the first article.

6.5 Acceptance criteria. The acceptance criteria below arerecommended for use. The acceptance criteria as specified in thecontract or purchase order shall be binding. Unless otherwisespecified, the following acceptance criteria are in accordancewith MIL-STD-105.

6.5.1 For end item visual examination. An acceptancequality level (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundredunits, of 1.5 for major defects, 10.0 for major and minor Acombined and 40..0for major, minor A and B combined isrecommended.

6.5.2 For end item dimensional examination. An AQL,expressed in terms of’defects per hundred units, of 10.0 isrecommended.

6.5.3 For Dackaqina examination. An AQL, expressed interms of defects per hundred units, of 4.0 is recommended.

6.6 Fiqures. Figures are furnished for informationpurposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between thewritten specification and the figure, the written specificationshall control.

146


MIL-C-82172B(MC)

6.7 Sub5ect {Kev word] listinq.

DressEnlistedMusic

6.8 Maruinal notations. Asterisks are not used in thisrevision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue,due to extensive changes.

Preparing activity:Navy - MCProject No. 8405-N132

147


I

.

MIL-c.8---------- HPIP

SZ1 (2 B[MCJ

BLACK ~C3

GOLD BRAID

(r//-//

/“

/

+

1

.

-\

[’”

—.———— —

.

,

\

B1-AcK PIP IN’&= “

FIG.l. CUAT, MAN’S: SCARLET,

DRUM AND BUGLECQRPS; DRUM

(

..

148


.

●

✌

MIL-C-82 172B(MC)

..

.

FIG.2.COAT, MANb:SCARLET,

“DRUM AN06UGLECORPS; BRUM MAJOR

--------- . ... .. .. . . . . .. ...... ...““14~ ““’ ”--- ~~ - - . . . .. . ,

..

I


,. . I

II1I

,

!

i

I

EYELET COVER.(TURNED BACKTO SHOW EYELET)

EYELET ~BuTTONHOLESEVENLY SPACED

/#

SH0UlJ3ER PLEAT-.

A\

SIDE SEAM

“1

I1

●✎

-

I

I

34\

/

.

. _L -—- -——— -—— —

.— __ __— ——-

l_EFT IN SIBEVIEW

FIG.3.COAT,MAN’S: SCARLET,,.DRUM AND E3UGLECORPS; BRUM MAJOR “

... . ._. _.-.

1 Cn


....

....

.

,

MIL

-C-8

2172B(Mc)

.

1--

‘-L

9 z QI I 1 I I I

I (-l 5“

z G1

I1 I I I 1 I

-i

w P m0 a

r m

DI“

’.

I ,

..

..

.151

..

..

....

....

...

.....—

----

----

-..

...


———.-—.--..-—.-. -.-...

—.... .. . .- ._.— ___ _._——.

f

MIL-C-82172B(MC)

COLLAR NOTCH~

FRUM EDGEOF COATTOINSIDE EDGEOF BUTTONHOLE

EYE LET~

4

ii’

E

-+

7-+

-+

-+

E f

BISECTING LINE

/

)-

—. ,.__.___.,I1iI

I

1

RAWEDGE OF

c’ ARMHOLE+

\ t“

b$“

9 .. .

\ FIEURE8 DESIGN

●

FIG.5.COAT, MAIN’S:SCARLET,

152

I

1-

BRAID PLACEMENT DIAGRAM— l_EFT FRONT

bRUMANB BUG LECORPS; BRUM MAJOR

.


xl

.. I n o

m -i

CJ

MIL

-C-8

2172B(MC)

/’

L r

153

m D CJ

z G z


,

1-M

IL-C

-8:

mn

---

-

t- 5’ : m m x -1 m z g 0 z 2 (P

0 c -1 (n E P1

<

----

--

-rl

-m 4 .

\

m

-1.“

3 D z“ m

I I I 1 , I

1

Ip (n z

t

1

1-1

L 0 xl

I

154


ISTANDARDIZATION DOCUNIENTllVIPROVElvlENTPROPOSAL

INSTRUCTIONS

1. The preparing activity must complete blocks 1, 2, 3, and & in block 1, both the document number and revisionletter should be given. .

2. The submitter of this form must complete blocks 4,5,6, and 7.

3. The preparing activity must provide a reply within 30 days from receipt of the form.

NOTE: This form may not be used to request copies of documents, nor to request waivers, or clarification ofrequirements on current contracts. Comments submitted on this form do not constitute or imply authorization towaive any portion of the referenced document(s) or to amend contractual requirements.

1. DOCUMENT NUMBER 2. DOCUMENT DATE (YYMMDD)

19 JULY 1990. OOCUMENT TITLE ?. ,

COAT, MAN‘S: SUMMER AND WINTER, SCARLET, DRUM AND BUGLE CORPS, DRUM MAJOR,NATUREOF CHANGE {/dentifyparagraph number and include proposed rewrite, if possibie. Attach extra sheea as needed.)

5. REASON FOR RECOMMENDATION

------------ - . .. . .. .. .NAME b. TELEPHONE (Inclde Area Code)munanding General I Marine Corps Research t (1)Commercial (2) ALJTOVON

welopment1 and [email protected] ition Command (PSE-C )(202) 696-1186/87/88 ‘ 226-1186/87/88

ADDRESS (Include Zip Ctie) IF YOU 00 NOT RECEIVE A REPLY WITH(N 45 OAYS, CONTACT:

shington,DC 20380-0001 I Defense Quality anti Standardization Office

5203 Leesburg Pike, Suite 1403, Falls Church, VA 22041-3466

Telephone (703) 756-234.0 AUTOVON 289-2340I [

Form 1426, OC1’ 89 Previous editions are obsolete. 19W290

-


yji8003 - MIL-STD-188everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-C/download...3.3.1 Basic material. The...

Documents

Transcript of yji8003 - MIL-STD-188everyspec.com/MIL-SPECS/MIL-SPECS-MIL-C/download...3.3.1 Basic material. The...