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SCOTLAND’S TOP INDEPENDENT FASHION MAGAZINE

A/W’11 FALL FASHION

THE BEST BRANDS

MUSIC & LIFESTYLE

STYLE GUIDEWIN A LUKE SCOOTER

5 BARBOURMore heritage design from South Shields finest export

18 TRAINERSPOTTERAn interview with hot new streetwear label Trainerspotter’s head honcho

22 DIESELA look at the best of Diesel’s fall collection

28 BARBOUR X McQUEENA look at the exclusive collab between Barbour and Steve McQueen

30 FOREST FASHIONOur amazing A/W shoot on location in the back woods of East Lothian

CONTENTS44 LYLE & SCOTTThe hottest new pieces from Scotland’s premium fashion label

60 BUYER’S GUDEHead Buyer Paul Mullan talks us through this season’s must haves

62 LUKEUK’s top youth fashion retailer comes of age

66 LADIESWEARA no frills guide to Christmas shopping for your Mrs

68 YOGI’s RANTOur resident grouch sets the world to rights

Editor: Murray AinslieDesign: Stuart Glegg @ Klaklak.com

Photography: Anna Isola Crolla, Kylie Hardie, Craig Robertson Image Enhancement: Kylie Hardie, Craig Robertson

Words: Murray Ainslie, Adam Le Chic, Yogi Haughton, Paul Mullen, Grant Wightman

Special Thanks To: Beecraigs Country Park

NINTH EDITION CONTRIBUTORS

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Eagle eyed users of our online store will have noticed it’s had something of a makeover in recent weeks. Our newly launched website is packed full of fantastic features, as well as the best designer fashion you’ll find on the world wide web! To celebrate our great new site we’re giving away an (almost) no strings £20 voucher to online customers. If you’d like to get £20 off any full price order over £80 then simply log onto www.xileclothing.com/vip and signup before the 15th November. As well as a massive £20 introductory discount you’ll also get regular newsletters, blogs and offers to keep you up to date with all things Xile. We’re keen to get your feedback on the new site, email your thoughts to customercare@xileclothing.com and we’ll select a winner at random to receive £100 worth of online vouchers.

NEW SITE LIVE NOW

Spend £80+ on

full price product

SIGN UP ONLINE FOR AN (ALMOST) NO STRINGS £20 VOUCHER

to redeem your

VIP voucher terms and conditions apply

VISIT EDINBURGH’S OFFICIAL REPLAY STORE UNIT 23, MULTREES WALK, 0131 557 0027 3

With a rich 117 year history Barbour can generally be relied on to provide an authentic backstory for their product. Forget about cheap marketing ploys and crass celebrity tie ins – Barbour have enough fascinating stories in their archives to keep us inspired for the foreseeable future. One of the most astonishing stories we’ve heard this season revolves around the new Pegasus jacket and its lineage from the famous Ursula Submariners suit. The Ursula Submariners suit was born out of one man’s desire to keep his crew safe and dry at sea. Lieutenant Commander George Phillips commanded the British submarine HMS Ursula throughout the Second World War and soon became dissatisfied with the protective qualities of the standard wet weather gear supplied by the Navy. Having discussed the problem with senior officers from his sub, Phillips was made aware of the one piece Barbour motorcycle suit that his Navigating Officer wore when racing. The suit was duly tested (with a fire hose) to Phillip’s satisfaction; he then visited Barbour at their South Shields HQ and ordered a special prototype to be made at his own expense. The first Ursula suit was a great success and Phillips paid for them to be made for his entire crew. The Navy soon adopted the design as standard and compensated him for the original order. In the post war years a great deal of Navy surplus ended up in the hands of motorcycle racers. The Ursula was widely used for its durability

and style and many consider it to be the predecessor of the classic International range. The Pegasus jacket draws upon this remarkable heritage. The heavyweight, waxed material and oversized hood hark back to the original Ursula while more contemporary details have been added to give it a premium fashion feel. Available in Olive or Black this classic piece is one of the best Barbour design’s we’ve seen in years!

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Barbour continue to impress in Autumn ‘11. Bold infusions of colour work well with the traditional heritage palate while new pieces are introduced to bolster the classic range. Expect a more complete collection with a wide range of tees, polos, knits and sweats to complement the classic jackets. As a long established heritage brand Barbour’s interpretation of this season’s “hunting, fishing” trend is spot on. Fair Isle knits and checked shirts are ideal for a classic look while the simple branded sweats and tees will look great for everyday wear. As always the jackets are the mainstay of the collection; check out a selection of the strongest pieces available online and instore.

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Alex is a happy little boy who loves Buzz Lightyear, the Gruffalo and Lego just like most other 3 year olds. But Alex isn’t like most other 3 year olds - in June 2010, aged 20 months, Alex was diagnosed with the aggressive childhood cancer, Neuroblastoma (Stage 4). Alex has been battling this awful disease ever since. After just over a year of frontline treatment, involving intensive induction chemotherapy, surgery, high dose chemotherapy, radiotherapy, differentiation treatment and immunotherapy, his end of treatment scans in June 2011 revealed a new tumour. The devastating news that he’d relapsed just weeks after completing the treatment hit everybody who knows him very hard.

Although a cure for Alex is now a very unlikely outcome we’re committed to raising money to help ensure he receives all possible help. Alex has been undergoing further chemotherapy at RHSC Edinburgh since June and has responded very well to that, suffering only mild side effects. This means that he is now eligible for further radiation (MIBG) treatment in London, which is scheduled to take place in November. Beyond that however, should he continue to show good progress, the hope is that there may be other options available abroad – there are a number of clinical trials for relapse disease in Germany or the USA onto which Alex may one day be able to enrol. Obviously, any treatment overseas comes at a huge financial cost.Please help us give Alex the best chance possible by logging onto xileclothing.com/giving and buying raffle tickets. We’ve donated a prize of £500 in a bid to raise as much as possible for this worthy cause.

Log onto xileclothing.com/giving to buy your charity raffle tickets.

CheCk out the XiLe bLog to read about the work we’ve been doing with the brett Lodge MeMoriaL Fund

WIN £500 TO SPEND AT XILE CLOTHING

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Born out of a love of sports styling, street culture and graphic design TRAINERSPOTTER is an exciting new brand for Xile this Autumn. Although this UK based label has been on the market for seven years the A/W ‘11 collection is undoubtedly the most polished yet. What started as a part time project aping iconic brands and classic sneaks has developed into a fresh and exciting brand with a truly unique style. Founders Russel Gator and Daniel Savory have had a clear vision from the start; mixing the street styling that made classic brands so popular with elements from their sportswear roots. Classic varsity track styles are re-imagined with offset pockets and contrast colourways. Simple breton polos benefit from deep colourwashing to give them a faded, retro feel which is set off by neon pocket details straight out the Miami Vice colour palate . The brand’s street influence comes to the fore in crew neck sweats and tees which feature the bold grenade motif which fronts this season’s collection. • ForanexclusiveinterviewwithTrainerspotter founder Daniel Savory turn to p18.

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Steve McQueen™ Licensed by Chadwick McQueen and

The Terry McQueen Testamentary Trust, represented by GreenLight.

Images courtesy of the Academy of Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences. 11

Minimum started life as a clothing boutique in Aarhus, Denmark in 1997. The owner Peder Tang soon realised that there was a space in the market for a minimalist fashion brand with a Scandic style signature. In 1999 the first menswear collection was launched to be sold exclusively in the Minimum store. Over the next 12 years Minimum gradually established itself as a strong, independent European label with stockists across the globe. Xile are delighted to showcase this clean collection. Head Buyer Paul Mullen compares the brand favourably to old favourite Junk DeLuxe and believes it will gradually become a mainstay in the Xile wardrobe. The simple style motifs and clean lines which characterise the A/W ‘11 range are right on the button for a preppy look. Chunky knitwear, tweed blazers and fitted chinos are presented in a classic style while simple long sleeve tees and heavy mountain jackets represent the brand’s more modern side. Minimum clearly spend a huge amount of time getting their fits just right. The neat, tailored styling offers wearers a clean silhouette which is bolstered by minimalist detailing and high quality fabrics. The collection’s sense of fun shines through in classic pieces inspired by urban life. We spoke to the brand team who claim their mission is “to conceive and develop progressive, young designs with undertones of Scandinavian coolness”. Judging on their first season in Xile, the boys are doing a good job of completing their mission.

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FW11_Male_Denim_SP.indd 1 07/10/2011 15:34

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G-Star’s shift from overtly branded commercial product to more subtle, design led pieces that draw upon the brand’s varied back catalogue continues apace in 2011. The fall collection replaces bold colours and loud logos with understated detailing, minimalist branding and fantastic fabrics. The range references obvious military influences which are reflected in the khaki overshirts and heavy duty bomber jackets. The detailing on these pieces is absolutely standout; bias cut pockets, worn in fabrics and slimline cuts combine to great effect and are truly reminiscent of classic G-Star designs from the past. Americana influences shine through across the collection as well. Look out for chunky checked shirts and straight legged worker style denims. More modernist styles are available in the form of high gloss ‘puffa’ jackets and hooded overshirts in rough and ready fabrics. Essentially G-Star has something for everyone in this varied collection. Branding has been toned down across the range but those of you in need of a classic hoody or tee will be impressed with the ‘ghostwritten’ logo that debuts this season and the varsity style crew necks that’ve been flying off the shelves. As you’d expect, denim remains a mainstay within the collection. We’ve focused on top half within this spread but you can check out a couple of key styles on our online blog. Alternatively nip into your local G-Star store where our team of denim experts will be more than happy to find you the perfect jeans for your shape and style.

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This richly detailed hiker shirt perfectly captures the ‘americana’ style that is so popular at present. A dusky tobacco colourway is set off beautifully by the solid collar and pocket details. Team this with battered denims and chunky boots for an authentic look or mix it up with a chunky parka and chinos for a dressier style.

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Trainer Spotterwho sold out of our printed t-shirts within a week and was then picked up by the Levis concept store in London, this was when we realized that there was a market for what we were producing.. but as for establishing ourselves in the market place I would say that has been really recent through stores like Size?, Peggs, End and yourselves.

What brands influence your design style the most? Trainerspotter’s aesthetic influences are informed more by popular culture like music, film and television rather than

other brands. However other brands we really rate would be Patagonia, Buzz Rickson, Nike, Vans, Adidas and Levis. We reckon you’ve got a great collection of sneaks, what are your favourite pair? O.k I’m going to slightly swerve the question by answering with one style but in many variations.. it’s the Nike Allcourt Lo and I have 7 pairs of vintage and deadstock. It’s possibly one of the most basic looking Nike shoes but for me it represents how even a brand of Nike’s stature had humble beginnings, the shoe is actually

Xile talk trainers, tracks and life in ten years time with Trainer Spotter’s Daniel Savory

an adaption of an existing model which was available in the far east and Nike tweaked and rebranded it with a Swoosh. The court sneaker is an all white canvas shoe with

a fat rubber toe and was available in colour variations with baby blue, navy, red, green or white swoosh. What’s most interesting for me is that even though they’re all the same size they vary in their details like eyelets, laces, tongue tags and outsoles and this was due to them being produced through different factories with no regulation.. some of them even got released as Bruins as they ran out of Allcourt boxes!! This would never happen now as everything is uniform so that one pair would match another. Whats the most you’ve ever paid for a pair of trainers? £2500.00 though it wasn’t strictly a pair of trainers but a pair of football boots.. sounds crazy but Nike’s very first ever product was a pair of soccer shoes. To own the very 1st Nike release is quite something and really was a snip in comparison to what some folks will pay for a pair of Jordan’s, a shoe that was mass produced into it’s 100’s of thousands! I’m very tempted by the Nike Mag’s (a.k.a the Back to the Future II sneakers) which they’re releasing strictly through Ebay to raise Money

“Maybe I’ll just wait until 2015 when they release the self lacing ones!”

for Michael J Fox’s Parkinsons Foundation.. although you might need a small fortune to aquire them as I heard Tinie Tempah paid $37500.00 for the 1st pair released, plus they’re only props and not to be worn... not that you would wear them anyway. Maybe I’ll just wait until 2015 when they release the self lacing ones! What new brands on the market do you rate? I’m not really aware of any new brands as such so I’ll go back to the question on brands that influence us.. Patagonia, Buzz Rickson. What are your three essential items of clothing for A/W ‘11? I’ll be taking a Pendleton theme this winter with my VANS SK8 x PENDLETON HIGH.. bought those at the end of January but they’re good to go now. The Trainerspotter X Pendleton overshirt from 2 years ago and Pendleton gloves!! What albums are on heavy rotation in Trainerspotter HQ?Roots Manuva’s ‘Foreverevolution’, GZA’s Liquid Swords, Beach Boy’s Pet Sounds and then there is the Bullitts single .. Close Your Eyes!

Where do you see the brand in ten years time?Where we are now, producing clothes in limited numbers and selling to the best stores and boutiques.. like Xile!

What was the inspiration behind Trainerspotter as a brand? The brand began in 2002/03 and was formed by a like minded interest by myself and Russell Gater for collecting vintage sneakers, sporting apparel, the heritage of sports, sports events and it’s stars!! Trainerspotter was born out of a necessity for us to communicate this.

When did you first realise the brand had established itself in the market? Trainerspotter was first sold in a store called Jello in Brighton

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Despite a reputation for wild colour schemes and bold designs, Adidas Originals have opted for a more muted palate in A/W ‘11. Blacks and greys form the backbone of this impressive collection with simple designs and clean silhouettes showing a more mature side to the brand. If you’re after a wilder look browse the bolder gillets, shirts and tracktops online.

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The good folk at Adidas have put up a fantastic prize for one lucky reader. If you fancy two tickets to see the Tartan Army play at Hampden as well as a brand new outfit to wear on the day simply email competitions@xileclothing.com with the answer to this simple question… Which Of These Iconic Stars Never Played For Scotland? 1) George Best 2) Craig Gordon 3) Andy Goram

G-Star Raw StoresAberdeen - Braehead - Edinburgh - Glasgow

.dtL lerappA lropmE yb detarepo

11214284 Adv Scotland - Into Xile 170x225 GA.indd 1 10/10/11 10:57 AM

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Diesel consistently come up with the goods and A/W ‘11 is no exception. The European denim giants have produced an outstanding collection which draws influence from rock n’ roll imagery and military themes to great effect.

Their Fall collection, entitled “No Guns, No Roses”, is ideal for aspiring rockers. The roughly hewn military overshirts laden with detail, checked shirts and leather edged jackets which characterise this collection all have the swagger and style of true rock n’ rollers. We’ve pulled together four key looks overleaf – from heavy duty cardigans to bold shirts and simple tailored jackets – there’s something for every style. Diesel’s denim collection can’t be faulted either, we’ve picked four key fits overleaf but there’s lots more to choose from instore. Get yourself down to your local Xile and let the staff talk you through the best fits, fades and washes. It is a testament to the creative team at Diesel that every collection they produce feels so fresh and different. Despite being a major player in the fashion world for over twenty years, the label continues to develop exciting new concepts and looks. This seminal Italian label has been a mainstay of the Xile collection since the earliest days and remains one of our top brands; with amazing collections like this you can see why!

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The Woda jacket is a great addition to any wardrobe. The classic grey colourway benefits hugely from rich brown leather detailing while the thick lining and durable material will keep you warm over the winter months. Dressy enough to impress without being difficult to wear - this key jacket is a great example of well designed technical outerwear. Team it with chinos or skinny jeans for a smart look that will hold up against the elements.

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The Shento shirt is a standout piece from this season’s collection. The muted black and red colourway is offset by corduroy detailing at the collar and cuffs and the fit is sublime. Wear it as a standard shirt or unbutton it over a simple white tee for a layered look. The subtle branding and distinctive zip detailing make this a cut above the rest. Team it with a heavy parka and battered denims for great effect.

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Hummel continue to inject old-school flavour into the Xile sneaker collection. The Danish sportswear brand have become a favourite amongst Xile’s staff and customers alike. We’ve highlighted two great high-tops here… The oxblood colourway is ideal for rockin’ with chinos while the grey and yellow sneaks look amazing with a pair of skinny jeans to showcase the contrast heel detailing.

Yohji Yamamoto certainly knows what makes a good pair of sneaks. Hi-tops reign supreme with these fantastic black ‘Huris’ stealing the show. A simple skate inspired design is polished off with vintage kimono detailing for a sleek street style. If subtle isn’t your vibe then check out these yellow boxing trainers, they’ve proved a controversial choice in the Xile office. Could you pull them off?

LEATHER AND LACESfootwear for the fashion conscious

Although the Adidas clothing collection has been toned down for A/W ‘11, the footwear range continues to pay homage to the brand’s rich heritage. Highlights include the b-boy influenced Decade Hi - a bold red & white basketball sneak straight out the 80’s. For the more discerning wearer Adidas has rereleased the Gazelle in four fantastic colourways. This iconic 60’s sneak has been slimmed down in line with it’s original spec and is an absolute must have in maroon!

Cruyff’s return to form continues with a clean and simple range for Fall ‘11. Chunky black mid-tops with contrast red lacing take the brand in a more urban direction while high sheen white sneaks directly reference the label’s sportswear roots. There’s a wide array of Cruyff styles to choose from online.

Trends come and go. This season everyone is raving about chinos, last season it was skinny jeans and long before that it was flared bootcuts with acid washes and rips in the knee (unfortunately). One thing remains constant however, the need for a good pair of trainers. Sneakers are undoubtedly the crowning glory of many a great wardrobe and we salute those of you who can tell your Air Max’s from your Munchens. Check out this selection of the coolest kicks available at www.xileclothing.com this season.

footwear for the fashion conscious

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Six Day Trials in East Germany in 1964. McQueen and the American team competed in Barbour International jackets because of their hard wearing nature and stylish silhouette. To celebrate the 75th anniversary of the International motorcycle jacket Barbour have released a new range modelled on classic designs and McQueen’s inimitable personal style. The exclusive new range faithfully recreates the jackets worn on tour in 1964. Expect

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From a troubled youth in reform schools, Hollywood heartthrob Steve McQueen built a career on his smouldering good looks and tough guy persona. The legendary American figure, dubbed the “King Of Cool”, remains a style icon to this day and his performances in films such as “Bullitt” and “The Great Escape” have cemented his position as a screen legend. McQueen was also an avid racing fan who took part in the International

durable fabrics, attention to detail and classic design twists alongside some vintage imagery on the lining depicting McQueen on his Triumph motorbike. The collection also showcases McQueen’s love of knitwear – look out for chunky cardigans and knits with the American team flag. Iconic images of McQueen make for a great range of bold commercial tees and the denim shirt with classic imagery at the yoke is an absolute must have!

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Callum Wears: PRPS Noire Overshirt £500 (11426), Replay Shirt £85 (11696), Dr Denim Jeans £65 (12005) Y3 Boot £230 (11373) Chris Wears: Barbour Cardi £90 (11923), Fred perry Polo £55 (11656), Replay Jeans £125 (11518), G-Star Boot £145 (11444)Eilidh Wears: Barbour National Trials Jacket £299 (11880)

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from brands that have stood the test of time. Barbour’s rich heritage shines through in a collection stacked full of authentic detail – who else could nail the country gent look so well? That said, it’s important to make sure you don’t fall into the trap of looking too authentically country gent. Forget about plus fours and tweed caps - inject some colour into your wardrobe with a few key pieces that nail the backwoods American pioneer look! Bold colours, Navajo prints and chunky checks contrast beautifully with the muted colours and classic designs the heritage brand shave to offer. Don’t be afraid to break the mould and throw in a more contemporary piece here and there – coloured chinos, chunky hightops and destroyed denims all work brilliantly.

Forget about urban fashion and ‘big city’ styling this season – Autumn/Winter ‘11 is all about the great outdoors. Flick through the pages of any magazine or look at the key collections instore this fall and you’ll see three key influences... Hunting, Shooting, Fishing. These three outdoor pursuits form the basis of this seasons key trend. To capture this look we went ‘into the wild’ for a shoot stacked full of rugged pieces, earthy colours and heritage styling. Big thanks to Anna Crolla and our models for battling the elements to get these great shots. To nail the great outdoors style your first stop should always be established heritage brands. Rather than picking out modern imitations we’ve opted for classic designs

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Callum Wears: Diesel Jacket £300 (12086), Natural Selection Jean £135 (10833)Y3 Boot £230 (11373)

Chris Wears: Heritage Research Jacket £275 (11451), Heritage Research Shirt £125 (11454), Dr Denim Chino £65 (12038), G-Star Boot £145 (11444)

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Chris Wears: Barbour Jacket £250 (11910), YMC Knit £140 (11973), Natural Selection Jean £160 (12043)Callum Wears: Heritage Research Jacket £320 (11449), Y3 Hoodie £260 (11362), PRPS Noire Jean £400 (11425)Eilidh Wears: Barbour Quilt £100 (11873)

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Eilidh Wears: Barbour Poncho £120 (11885), Callum Wears: Diesel Jacket £300 (12086), Natural Selection Jean £135 (10833) Y3 Boot £230 (11373)Chris Wears: PRPS Cardi £260 (11439), PRPS Shirt £220 (11435)Dr Denim Chino £60 (12038), Adidas Gazelle £70 (11621)

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Funnel Collar Cardigan £85 (11755)

Rays Outline Tee £40 (11726)

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Plenty of (ill informed) observers predicted that Liam Gallagher’s mod influenced fashion label Pretty Green wouldn’t stand the test of time. The buying team at Xile HQ know quality when they see it however, and the label continues to go from strength to strength with an ever expanding range of product. This season sees a focused range of casualwear with the unique Pretty Green style signature. The absolute must have for A/W is the faux fur lined parka which positively reeks of Gallagher’s indie roots. Don’t dismiss this collection as a celebrity spinoff - Pretty Green has the style and the substance to stay at the forefront of mens fashion.

40 41

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What started off as an experimental Diesel spin off range has undoubtedly now become a brand in its own right. 55DSL fuses urban culture with an extreme sports ethos to create a lively and challenging brand for the fashion conscious. 55’s close collaboration with artists and musicians continues in 2011. Check out the fantastic collab tees below – for the full story check out the Xile blog.

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43

Update your Autumn wardrobe with Lyle & Scott’s fresh new fall collection. This heritage design house now has much more to offer than knits and polos; their extended range covers all the menswear bases. Collegiate sweats, tailored shirting and a fantastic range of outerwear perfectly complement the brand’s style staples. This is the go to brand for a de-constructed preppy look that draws influence from rougher, more rugged elements. Look out for subtler branding on key pieces alongside a great autumnal colour scheme.

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THE MIXING LIVE EVENT

56

Ok, so it’s not exactly Ibiza but The Cairndale Hotel in Dumfries is set to become Scotland’s premier location for dance and soul music this November. The first ever Scottish Soulful Weekender kicks off on the 4th of November with an all star line up that perfectly captures this unique

All-star line up announced for Dumfries based dance festival

event’s fusion of old and new dance and soul music. Although the party is modelled upon a classic Northern Soul weekender, it features an absolutely outstanding house lineup which dwarfs previous events north of the border. Promoter Yogi Haughton has been an infamous figure on the UK house scene since the 1980’s when he ran the infamous Hoochie Coochie club and a series of legendary parties at Calton Studios. He expects a capacity crowd come the 4th of November and promises an unforgettable weekend that you won’t forget! Comparisons have already been drawn with the early years of Southport

which showcased both house and Northern Soul Although Dumfries seems like an unusual location for an all star lineup, Yogi and the team have invested massively in the venue to ensure a 1st class experience. With ear blistering sound systems from London, visuals and décor from FunktionKreep and a second to none lineup this looks set to be T In The Park for the house and soul generation. The roster of DJ’s and live acts is literally too long to print. Expect straight up and soulful jackin’ house from the likes of Todd Terry, Kerri Chandler, Lil’ Louis and Joey Negro

TOP 5 DJS

TODD TERRY

KERRI CHANDLER

LIL LOUIS

JOEY NEGRO

CASSIO WARE

57

“This Weekender looks like it will be a blast.”

- Joey Negro

in the main room.

For a funkier tip there’s vocals from Evelyn ‘Champagne’ King, a DJ set from Greg Wilson, and a live performance from the legendary Syl Johnson, who’s work has been sampled by Public Enemy, Wu Tang and many more. If you’re more interested in straight up Northern then you’re in for a treat; NYC’s Honky, arguably the world’s foremost collector of soul will be on hand alongside Soul Sam, a 70 year old veteran of Wigan Casino. Tickets are still available online at www.scottishsoulfulweekender.co.uk – If you’re up for three days and four slammin’ rooms of rare soul, jazz, house, funk and black music with an incredible international lineup then book now.

48 49

Winter Warmers

4 key jackets to see you through

to springWinter

Warmers4 key jackets to see you through

to springUnion Jack

branding

Classicovercoat

Heavy dutypadding

Ultra warm quilt

Din

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: GS

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(121

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£95

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Leathercollar

Fresh newbranding

52 53

Replay’s A/W ‘11 collection revolves around the concept of ‘originality’, in a creative journey back to the brand’s roots. Nowhere is this ‘original’ concept more evident than in the denim, characterised by extreme washes and breakages designed to remind us that jeans were originally a rugged workwear item. The ‘Campus’ collection tips its cap to the college environment of the US west coast, with fresh takes on ‘frat house’ symbols and varsity styling. Vintage reigns supreme here thanks to a number of items plucked from Replay archives and given a new, contemporary twist. This is undoubtedly the strongest collection from Replay in many years, check it out online today.

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54 55

Untitled-1 1 30/9/11 10:14:02

As a lover of house and dance music from the tender age of 10 and a DJ for the last 14 years you’d think it would have been standard protocol for me to have shipped my ass to the party isle that is Ibiza a good few times. Unbelievably this July was my first visit and I returned with a selection of Balearic battle scars and some fucking good stories!Unusually I wasn’t entirely looking forward to this trip prior to lift off; to be honest I felt pretty damn nervous and worried that the island would break me both mentally and financially. The blatant commercialism that has over-ridden the island over the last 15 years was also a real concern! In my humble opinion pop music should not be available on Ibiza and the likes of Ibiza Rocks, Radio 1, Guetta and his dickhead mates the Swedish House Mafia should be deported straight to Magaluf.Upon arrival we went straight on the scrounge and soon found an ex-Xile staffer willing to hook us up with ‘Guesties’ for the infamous ‘We Love...Sundays’ at notorious superclub Space. Norwegian disco-don Lindstrom’s terrace

set was off the hook and the unbelievable eye-candy on offer was simply mind blowing. This proved to be a recurring theme; nowhere else on earth have I seen such a selection of beautiful ladies – not even Easter Road on a Friday night comes close!Having left Space with brain cells intact and black book decidedly empty it was an early start the next day for us. Unlike the rest of the pasty punters that packed onto our return flight, we managed to drag ourself out of our post disco slumbers and get down to Bora-Bora beach every day for a spot of tanning. As you lay there getting your brown on you can slowly hear all last night’s party casualties emerging from their apartments onto the beach. Hearing stories such as ‘oh man, I was f**king melted last night, what happened?’ and ‘I woke up in the middle of the night and he had a latex sheep mask on and was bending over me’ is bad enough – worse still when you consider it was my roommates telling the tales! The stories from Ibiza 2011 are x-rated and I’m certainly not about to spill the beans as my

mum will definitely read this.A highlight was attending Zoo Project in my leopard print cardigan, to be honest I felt that this was the only place on earth I could pull it off. Imagine a derelict Zoo converted into a 3 arena rave pit, minus the animals. The only wild creatures here were the clubbers in attendance… spaced out, foaming at the mouth and looking decidedly feral. This was a cool setup, picture yourself dancing away with beautiful people in zebra stripes and rubber masks while Burnski blasts out a banging mix. An old seal enclosure was transformed into a stage where onlookers stood and boogied while the DJs and animal-esque dancers did ‘their thang’. As the evening was drawing to a close our night was just beginning! We headed to an alternative afterparty at Jade Jagger’s villa which which has been converted into an underground nightclub called (you guessed it) Underground – genius.The real drama was getting from the zoo to the villa. We were approached by an illegal taxi driver, normally you would be a little apprehensive but we were

still buzzing from our experience in the animal enclosure and thought ‘sure mate, you seem friendly so I’m not scared of waking up with a rubber fist hanging out my ass’... Our mistake! We jumped into his convertible Jeep, the techno was chucked on and we fist pumped and gurned our way across the island. Three minutes into the journey we saw a roadblock with police cars flagging us to pull over. Although the driver bricked it at this point we were just keen to get to the party. Two coppers pull up to both the driver’s door and me in the passenger side door and the standard ‘license and registration’ chat proceeded. The driver was hauled out and I made the mistake of asking ‘Is there a problem officer?’ This didn’t go down well, I was immediately pulled from the Jeep, forcibly spreadeagled across the front of a police car and thoroughly frisked. I hate to think how this looked as my leopard print cardy flapped in the wind while a muscular police officer performed what can only be described as a ‘reach around’ to see (or feel) if I was packing any illegal substances. It goes without saying that I wouldn’t be involved in such a thing so we were released back into the wild and headed off to yet another party – the driver is probably still being probed as we speak.My initial fear of the island proved unjustified as Ibiza is truly a beautiful place to visit…not just for the party scene, the food, the people, the sights are first rate. I’d like to thank the white isle for the best damn holiday I have ever had.

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Adam Le Chic -Our resident expert on beats, bleeps and disco breaks takes us to the dark heart of the White Isle

Clubbing Tees

58 59

Pen

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£10

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‘it’s important not to forget the importance of a great pair of jeans.’

As you’ll have guessed by now this isn’t GQ and we make no claims to be top fashionistas. There’s not a hint of ‘guyliner’

in the Xile office and the closest we come to the catwalk is when next door’s cat prowls past the office door! When I set out to write this buyers guide the editor pestered me for a load of buzz words and catchy phrases talking about ‘what’s hot and what’s not’ and which fabrics and cuts are essential for Fall 2011; well, fuck that! The reason Xile has got such appeal to the guy on the street is that when we buy collections for the store we’re not thinking about forward trends or what’s in vogue – we’re thinking about the clothes that we like to wear, that’ll look great on everyday guys whether they’re rocking up to the club at 1am, bouncing out of parties at 7am or nipping down the shops for a pint of milk. So, rather than talking pish about Italian catwalks and influential design houses, I thought I’d write about the best pieces I’ve seen this season which have made me put my hand in my pocket and buy.

Chinos are back! Chinos with denim, chinos with checks, chinos with practically everything! The first must have this season for me was a pair of rugged slimline chinos. Now lets be clear here, when I’m talking chinos I’m not talking about about the beige numbers your grandad plays golf in! I’m talking about heavy duty fabrics and workwear styled slacks that’ll sustain a few cuts and scrapes rather than falling to pieces. I picked up the Dr Denim Donks but there’s loads of variety on offer: Drop-crotches and bias cut fits for the younger lad, lightweight pastel colourways for the flashier dresser and simple denim influenced styles from the big European labels.

‘we’re not thinking about forward trends or what’s in vogue – we’re thinking about the clothes that we like to wear’

BUYER’S GUIDE

Die

sel K

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ys £

110

(987

5)

Oliv

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335

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classic cotton sweat

Chinos look great with knitwear but if your mrs is anything like mine then she can’t go

a winter without ruining my knits, every year without fail she will shrink a beautiful jumper. I’m playing it safe this Autumn and opting for a classic sweatshirt instead. She’ll struggle to wreck a classic cotton sweat and it will look brilliant worn casually with chinos and a battered pair of sneaks. I’ve gone with a brilliant option from Penfield with great button detailing that you won’t mistake for your dad’s scabby Fruit Of The Loom.

This summer Danish brand

Humour was a big hit with our younger customers thanks to its bright colours and distinctive fits. Humour has come of age for A/W ‘11 and there’s a great range of checked shirts

Chinos are a must in your wardrobe this season but it’s crucial not to

forget the importance of a great pair of jeans. When the weather gets nasty later in the year let’s see how your favourite new chinos bear up to the cold. I can promise you that those pastel drainpipes won’t look nearly as good with mud splashed up them and slush soaking through the hem. My advice is to grab a pair of the new anti fit Natural Selection’s; these heavy duty denims are just what you need when the weather gets too heavy for your chinos.

BUYER’S GUIDE

Nat

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£16

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£95

(122

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harris tweed

detailing

It’s a nice feeling to pick out a new winter jacket every year.

If you want one that’s bang on trend then check out this amazing example from British designer Oliver Spencer. It’s my favourite piece and an absolute must have. The fit is spot on and the Harris Tweed works brilliantly with the waxed hood, leather buttons and toggles.

antifit

denim

boldnavajopattern

and knits in fantastic muted winter colours. The piece that stood out for me was the Maali shirt, with just the right amount of printed fabric on this denim shirt it’s an option for the over 30’s as well as the younger generation.

60 61

Arc

hie

Zip

Up

£75

(112

69)

Kef Leather Trainer £75n(11279)

Britain’s premium youth fashion label continues to develop its unique ‘lads’ look this autumn. There are signs of a growing maturity within the collection however as more subtle textures and colours replace summer’s bold styling. Never one to miss a trick, head designer Luke Roper has developed a capsule collection which perfectly captures this season’s collegiate craze; crew neck sweats and varsity zip tops offer a fresh take on the popular Luke brand. Outerwear has also been a huge success for Luke this season – look

Witt

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out for a varied jacket collection featuring lush hooded parkas, rough n’ ready biker jackets and even a slimline belted mac. This is clearly a brand on the up as its forward thinking design policy and committed customer base show.a tailoring background so it’s no surprise to see the launch of a sharp Luke suit. Although they’re available separately, we’d recommend snapping up this sharp trouser and jacket combo. Where else can you pick up a designer suit for £185?

Phi

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SEE OVERLEAF FOR DETAILS

62 63

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To stand a chance of winning a fabulous electric scooter from Luke simply email competitions@xileclothing.com with your name and address. We’ll be announcing the winner on our blog before Christmas.

64 65

66 67

If you’re anything like me then the mere thought of buying Christmas presents for your better half sends

you into a panic. I break out in cold sweats whenever anyone

asks if I’ve ‘sorted’ her present. To be fair

my track record isn’t exactly

great –

Classic Short £170 (10481)

previous disasters have included lingerie four sizes too big and an ‘age defying’ lotion that turned out to be for menopausal women! To reduce my stress levels this Christmas I’ve had the girls in Xile HQ highlight some of the best pieces available instore and online. I’m told that Barbour Polarquilts will still be the ‘must have’ this December – I’ve already snapped one up to avoid the last minute rush as stock is strictly limited. Ugg Boots are also a surefire stocking filler, the girls have

picked out a couple of classic styles but if you’re feeling brave

there are some racier styles instore as well. All I need

to do now is work out her foot size...

Bailey Button Black £190 (12163)

Autumn Accessories1

2

3

4

Take the stress out of Christmas shopping with our ladies gift guide...

Ultra cosy ear muffs from UGG. Ideal for the winter weather. £80 (12326)

Stylish leather gloves with a sheepskin hem.£100 (12329)

The ultimate hat and scarf set. An ideal winter warmer. £100 (12330)

Gloss effect aviator style cap with faux fur detailing. Biggles eat your heart out. £40 (12340)

Yogi‘s sportswear

There was a time when tracksuits (or as they are more affectionately known “trackies”) were the exclusive preserve of the football thug elite and American rappers. Today the poor old trackie has fallen from grace as a fashion accessory, not because they ain’t cool but because of the chavs and neds that adopted them as a quick and useful item of clothing catering perfectly to their social needs. Let’s face it, if you live on the scheme, you can be out of bed, dressed and signing on in under half an hour with a trackie. Trackies can be also be washed and dried in next to no time, very handy if it’s your only item of clothing! Let’s go back though, way back…Back to the days when British football teams were making headway in Europe and young working class lads had a bit more dough in their back pockets. Trips to far off exotic countries in the past such as Italy, Holland and Germany had previously cost a month’s wages for the flight alone but by the mid 70’s everybody was going continental. Here in Britain the height of fashion was Fruit Of The Loom jeans, a pair of Kickers and a Star jumper but those trips abroad were about to open young thugs eyes to a new luxury item, European sportswear. After smashing up cosmopolitan shopping malls and parades in Europe the lads would return with armfuls of Kappa, Fila, Le Coq Sportif, Sergio Tacchini and Ellesse. Everybody loves to own an item of clothing that others admire but could never hope to own and these boys were swaggering about in the best of threads. Other sportswear influences came through the hip hop scene, Adidas and Nike were prized items of clothing for the snappier dressers of the 80’s and then there was Troop. Troop trackies were the holy grail of tracksuits and if you wanted the couture, crème de la crème of tracksuits you hopped on a flight to New York -as I did - to Dapper Dan in Harlem for a tailor made leather tracksuit. Dapper Dan was tailor to

the black stars, LL Cool J, Run DMC and Mike Tyson all wore Dapper Dan’s leather tracksuits and jackets. I had to wait in

the queue behind Scot La Rock to be measured up for my “Gucci” leather tracksuit made in Dapper Dan’s Spartan sweatshop by illegal immigrants. Some sportswear items have remained cool, while others such as Kappa and Le Coq Sportif have fallen by the wayside a little as the cooler dressers opt for

fashion house brands. Today the Fila, Ellesse and Adidas badges are still worn with

honour and pride across the country. My wardrobe will

always have space for the right trackie, not for

training purposes though you understand!

Yogi

Yogi‘s rant

Ad

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