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Surface TensionNEW YORK — Sleek. That’s how Francisco Costadescribed his collection for Calvin Klein, and headded a futuristic tone with distinctive textures.Case in point, this embroidered silk jersey dress.For more on the trend, see pages 6 and 7.

 

WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear/Men’s

 See Saks,  Page 16

A Return to ‘Offense’:Saks Inc. Eyes GrowthAs Loss Narrows in Qtr.By David Moin

 

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RICHARD NICOLL FOR CERRUTIHumility is a word not frequently heard in fashion’s upper circles, butthat’s exactly what Richard Nicoll is striving for with his first women’swear collection for Cerruti.

“It’s about simple pieces with sensitivity and romance, as opposed tominimal and sterile,” the British-born, Australian-raised designer saidduring a fitting at the company’s headquarters. A 2002 graduate of London’sCentral Saint Martins, Nicoll freelanced for Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuittonbefore striking out on his own in 2005, rapidly winning fans from KylieMinogue to Sofia Coppola with his oversize T-shirts and sculptural shirts.

The designer cemented his status as one of the stars of LondonFashion Week with the fall collection for his namesake label, whichfeatured soft tailoring inspired by his own a masculine wardrobe.

He hopes to bring the same grounded approach to Cerruti, which isreturning to the women’s catwalk after an eight-year absence. “I think we’relacking things that are easy to wear, but also joyful and luxurious,” he said.

Nicoll is offering jabot-accented dresses in wearable grays, powderypink, khaki and blue. These will be offset by charged ikat-style printsoverlaid with fine diagonal stripes or tiny dots. “It’s playing withbourgeois French sartorial codes and giving it a new spin,” he explained.That should come as welcome news to the legions of women who areembracing fashion’s new trend for confident, wearable clothes. “It’s theperfect timing for Cerruti to be relaunching, because that’s what it’s beensynonymous with, historically.” — Joelle Diderich

NICOLAS ANDREAS TARALIS

Following a three-year hiatus, which included a spell as artistic director of Cerruti and the introduction of a capsule men’s line that has just enteredstores, Nicolas Andreas Taralis is back, with a show for women’s and men’scollections scheduled for March 2 at the Palais de Tokyo.

Known for mixing sharp, androgynous tailoring with a rock ’n’ rollattitude, Canadian-born Taralis sees his comeback as an organic evolutionfrom where he left off. “I’m trying to bring something into it that’s new, asofter touch,” said the designer, whose beautifully constructed artisanalcollection centers on wardrobe staples with subtle twists. A crisp whiteshirt, for instance, bears side panels echoing a jacket’s construction, whilewashed raw-denim jeans sport side zippers and a hook-and-button closure.Outerwear ranges from a structured cotton moleskin coat to a gentlybattered leather jacket with a vintage feel. — Katya Foreman

DAMIR DOMA  “She’s a very proud and strong character. I had this idea of a priestess,”said Damir Doma, who will present his first women’s collection on March3 at the Lycée Henri IV.

 Already a hot ticket in men’s wear, Doma last year generated salesof around 3.5 million euros, or $4.9 million at average exchange. Hiscollection is distributed in 150 doors worldwide.

Carrying the same flavor as his men’s wear — think timeless, sacredclothes for the modern monk — for his women, Doma used new lines,volumes and proportions to spin a resolutely feminine allure on hisvision. And, he says, each universe will have a distinct personality.Highlights include elegant but edgy sleeveless wool jumpsuits, longtailored jackets with defined shoulders, chunky knitwear and floor-lengthdresses with twisted volumes at the back. “It’s about creating a tensionbetween something fluid and the strict and long,” said Doma. — K.F.

MAXIME SIMOENSReactivity is a strong point for buzzy French designer Maxime Simoens, 25,who, since showing at the Hyeres fashion festival last spring, is alreadysold in 20 boutiques, including Maria Luisa in Paris, White Room inTokyo and Ursula B in Montreal.

The business-savvy designer, who counts Melanie Laurent among fans— the actress wore a gold and silver sequin-embroidered bustier dressby Simoens to the Sidaction AIDS gala in Paris in January — said hisaim is to deliver strong, feminine pieces at reasonable prices, startingat around 200 euros, or $270 at current exchange.

His second collection, focused on structured daywear elements andgraphic cocktail wear with glitzy embellishment, trips across the 20thcentury, from an Art Deco-inspired embroidered black shift dress to

a Paco Rabanne-style chain mail number. He shows March 8 at DavidMallett Salon, 14 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires, 2nd. — K.F.

CALLA Canadian textile design whiz Calla Haynes, 29, will present thesecond collection under her women’s wear label, Calla, from March6 to 12 at the Galerie France Fiction in Paris’ 3rd arrondissement.Haynes, who spent five years working alongside Olivier Theyskensat Rochas and Nina Ricci, is offering modern pajama pants in moiré-effect silk handwoven in Uzbekistan, a body-conscious printed jerseygroup and patchwork jackets. Haynes plays on proportions — pairingan oversize shirt with volume at the elbow with a skinny pant, say, ora pencil skirt with an airy chiffon blouse. She developed five differentprints on fabrics ranging from viscose jersey to jacquards and quiltingembroideries for the collection. — K.F.

 ANTHONY VACCARELLOSince winning the Grand Jury Prize at the Hyères Festival in 2006, Anthony Vaccarello, 30, has spent two years working in Fendi’s furdepartment and designed capsule collections for Maria Luisa in Paris and Joyce in Hong Kong. This season, the designer is striding out with a tightcommercial line of graphic lingerie-inspired bodysuits, frocks and sweaterdresses, paired with coats or masculine jackets. Vaccarello contrasts

textures with transparency, mixing velvetand veils assembled by embroiderystitches to create armorlike geometricpanels. He describes the look as “ArtDeco meets ‘Metropolis.’” He shows atParis’ Joyce Gallery on March 2. — K.F.

LINDA VONGDARA Paris-based corsetry specialist Linda Vongdara hasproduced her first women’s wear collection, loosely inspiredby fetishism. The result, to be presented March 3 to 11 at 88Rue de Provence in Paris’ 9th arrondissement, is decidedlynot S&M, however. A charming sailor coat piped with redribbons innocently acknowledges Vongdara’s fascination

with uniforms, as do colored wool capes. Among harderpieces are rock ’n’ roll boned leather bustier dresses andcorsets. Softer velvet dresses and artisanal alpaca woolaccessories are also on offer. Prices for the collection,which is made in France, range from around 100 euros, or$140, for a T-shirt, to 1,000 euros, or $1,400 for a coat. — K.F.

FAKE LONDONFake London is making a comeback. The label, basedin the British capital, was founded by Desiree Mejerin 1997 but closed in 2006. Now, it’s returning in alicensing partnership with the Italian manufacturing anddistribution firm Italservices SpA. Mejer has designed aquirky collection filled with denim, tweed cashmere, andfake fur. The fall line includes pieces such as a hoodedcape in brown check wool lined with a silver nylonwindcheater, a denim jacket embellished with vintageleather braces and dark blue jeans with a subtle skeletondesign sprayed onto the legs. Totes in butter-soft leatherare printed with the words “Buy British,” and aredesigned to look like grocery store bags.

To celebrate the relaunch, Mejer’s pal Damien Hirst

designed a series of Fake London “spin” paintings,which will be on display at the label’s Paris showroom,March 1 to 11. Retail prices for the collection rangefrom 36 euros, or $55, for a T-shirt to 420 euros, or $650,for a parka. — Nina Jones

WWD.

14 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 25, 2010

A FEW NAMES TO NOTE ON THE PARIS FASHION SCENE.

Ones to WatchParis Preview 

c o l l e c t i o n s  / f a l l  ’ 1 0 

PARIS

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For more, including the daily show calendar,

see  WWD.com.

DamirDoma

Linda Vongdara

     MaximeSimoens

Calla FakeLondon

      Ant Vacca

Nicolas AndreasTaralis

Richard Nicoll for Cerruti

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