CHAPTER CHAPTER TWO: TWO:

WEAVING WEAVING PLANPLAN

2.1 Methods of Weave 2.1 Methods of Weave RepresentationRepresentation

Divided into 2 type:Divided into 2 type:1.1. Warp overlap Warp overlap

2.2. Weft overlapWeft overlap

2 methods of weave representation:2 methods of weave representation:1.1. Linear MethodLinear Method 2. Canvas Method2. Canvas Method

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7

6

5

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3

2

1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

2.2 Repeat of Weave and Shift2.2 Repeat of Weave and Shift

The repeat of weave is a complete element of the The repeat of weave is a complete element of the weave.weave.

Shift or move is the distance from a painted square on Shift or move is the distance from a painted square on one horizontal space to the corresponding painted one horizontal space to the corresponding painted square on the next horizontal spacesquare on the next horizontal space

10

9

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5

Ry4

3

2 1 2

1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Warp repeat, Rx = 5 Weft repeat, Ry = 5

Sy = Horizontal Shift

Sx = Vertical Shift

 Fundamental weave: 5/2 sateen

Rx Sy

2.3 Draft2.3 Draft Technically it shows the sequence of raising and lowering the Technically it shows the sequence of raising and lowering the

healdframes or healdshaft, a set called harness for the weave healdframes or healdshaft, a set called harness for the weave formation. formation.

The type of weave to be produced depends on the draft.The type of weave to be produced depends on the draft. The basic data for constructing the draft is the weave.The basic data for constructing the draft is the weave. The draft is usually shown at the top of the weave diagram.The draft is usually shown at the top of the weave diagram. Drafts can be classified as follows:Drafts can be classified as follows:

1.1. Straight draftStraight draft

2.2. Skip draftSkip draft

3.3. Pointed draftPointed draft

4.4. Broken draftBroken draft

5.5. Divided draftDivided draft

6.6. Grouped draftGrouped draft

7.7. Curved draftCurved draft

8.8. Combined draftCombined draft

2.3.1 Straight draft2.3.1 Straight draft

The simplest draft, forms the basis for many drafts. Each successive yarn is drawn on successive shaft, the first warp yarn on the first shaft, the second shaft, and so on.The number of shafts equals the warp repeat, Draft repeat, Rd = Warp repeat, Rx = 5 (example above).

2.3.2 Skip draft2.3.2 Skip draft Used in weaving the fabrics with a high density of warp threads. Possible to use a number of shafts two or more times greater than the warp repeat and than the minimal necessary number of shafts for this weave. The density of healds on each shaft decreases, and friction thread against thread, and thread against heald reduces.

2.3.3 Pointed draft2.3.3 Pointed draft This draft is used in weaving the fabrics with a symmetrical design, when the This draft is used in weaving the fabrics with a symmetrical design, when the

straight draft cannot be applied because of a large warp repeat.straight draft cannot be applied because of a large warp repeat. The pointed draft can be considered as a combination of straight drafts, constructed The pointed draft can be considered as a combination of straight drafts, constructed

first in one direction and then in the other.first in one direction and then in the other. The change of direction takes place on the first and last shafts of the draft, which The change of direction takes place on the first and last shafts of the draft, which

are the points of reversal.are the points of reversal. These shafts contains only one heald each number of shafts used is about two These shafts contains only one heald each number of shafts used is about two

times less than the warp repeat of the weave: Ntimes less than the warp repeat of the weave: Nss = R = Rxx/2 + 1./2 + 1.

A variety of derived twills, and also the diamond designs, which are symmetrical A variety of derived twills, and also the diamond designs, which are symmetrical about their vertical and horizontal axes.about their vertical and horizontal axes.

2.3.4 Broken draft2.3.4 Broken draft This draft can be considered as a modified pointed draft.This draft can be considered as a modified pointed draft. A combination of straight drafts with different directions of constructing.A combination of straight drafts with different directions of constructing. The direction is reversed not on the last or the first shaft.The direction is reversed not on the last or the first shaft. When the direction is reversed the first threads of the next group is When the direction is reversed the first threads of the next group is

started higher or lower than the last thread of the preceding group.started higher or lower than the last thread of the preceding group. This small modification changes considerably the design by breaking the This small modification changes considerably the design by breaking the

axis of symmetry.axis of symmetry. The broken draft is applied for producing hearringbone twills, diaper The broken draft is applied for producing hearringbone twills, diaper

designs and some other designs.designs and some other designs.

2.3.5 Divided draft2.3.5 Divided draft This draft is employed for derived weaves, double-warp weaves, This draft is employed for derived weaves, double-warp weaves,

two ply weaves, pile weaves, and some others.two ply weaves, pile weaves, and some others. The shafts are divided into two or more groups.The shafts are divided into two or more groups. A suitable type of draft is chosen for each group.A suitable type of draft is chosen for each group.

2.3.6 Grouped draft2.3.6 Grouped draft

This draft is employed for production of check and This draft is employed for production of check and stripe designs, in which the stripes have different stripe designs, in which the stripes have different weaves or their combinations.weaves or their combinations.

The draft is used for producing the fabric with two The draft is used for producing the fabric with two different stripes containing 15 and 12 threads, different stripes containing 15 and 12 threads,

respectivelyrespectively..

2.3.7 Curved draft 2.3.8 Combined 2.3.7 Curved draft 2.3.8 Combined draftdraft Curved drafts are irregular and Curved drafts are irregular and

cannot be classified.cannot be classified. These draft are applied for fancy These draft are applied for fancy

weaves having a large warp weaves having a large warp repeat with the purpose of repeat with the purpose of reducing the number of shafts.reducing the number of shafts.

The minimal number of shafts The minimal number of shafts equals the numbers of threads in equals the numbers of threads in warp repeat with different order warp repeat with different order of interlacing.of interlacing.

The drawing-in is done applying The drawing-in is done applying the rule: all warp threads which the rule: all warp threads which work alike are drawn on the work alike are drawn on the same shaft.same shaft.

Oral instructions cannot be given Oral instructions cannot be given to the drawer, as well as to the to the drawer, as well as to the weaver.weaver.

They should be supplied with They should be supplied with drawings of the curved draft.drawings of the curved draft.

Various methods of drawing-Various methods of drawing-in can be combined in one in can be combined in one draft for producing a certain draft for producing a certain type of fabric.type of fabric.

Two or more drafts described Two or more drafts described above can be applied above can be applied simultaneously, for example, simultaneously, for example, straight and skip, grouped straight and skip, grouped and curved, and so on.and curved, and so on.

Combined draft is most Combined draft is most complicated and can be complicated and can be chosen only if there are some chosen only if there are some technological or economical technological or economical reasons.reasons.

It can be done properly by the It can be done properly by the designer having a great designer having a great experience.experience.

2.4 Requirements to 2.4 Requirements to Drawing-InDrawing-In Studied first using a straight draft then the simplest Studied first using a straight draft then the simplest and suitable for the design.and suitable for the design. The number of shafts should be as small as The number of shafts should be as small as possible, but the density of healds is to be calculated possible, but the density of healds is to be calculated and should not exceed the standard value.and should not exceed the standard value. The distribution of threads on different shafts should The distribution of threads on different shafts should be as uniform as possible. be as uniform as possible. Used the front shafts with minimal height of lifting for Used the front shafts with minimal height of lifting for the threads with biggest number of intersections in the the threads with biggest number of intersections in the weave repeat and for a weaker system of warp weave repeat and for a weaker system of warp threads.threads.

1.2 Weaving Plan1.2 Weaving Plan

““Weaving plan is a characteristic of process Weaving plan is a characteristic of process conditions of fabric production on the loom, conditions of fabric production on the loom,

expressed in graphical form”expressed in graphical form”

Consists of 3 elements placed in certain order:Consists of 3 elements placed in certain order:

1.1. Repeat of weave, example plain, twill and sateenRepeat of weave, example plain, twill and sateen

2.2. Draft or drawing-inDraft or drawing-in

3.3. lifting plan - Determines the order of lifting and lifting plan - Determines the order of lifting and lowering the shafts in the process of forming the lowering the shafts in the process of forming the weave; cam, dobby and jacquard.weave; cam, dobby and jacquard.

Example of straight draft (arrangement Example of straight draft (arrangement of warp yarn on healdframe)of warp yarn on healdframe)

Shaft No. 4

Shaft No. 3

Shaft No. 2

Shaft No. 1

Healdwire No. 4

Healdwire No. 1

Healdwire No. 2

Healdwire No. 3

Repeat No. 1 Repeat No. 2

To warp beam

To cloth roller

Example of Weaving Plan Vs Dobby Example of Weaving Plan Vs Dobby Weaving MachineWeaving Machine

Dobby Mechanism – controlling the healdframe/shaft to built the fabric design Weaving Plan; Lifting Plan

Healdframe/Shaft – up and down motion for warp yarn to form shedding processWeaving Plan; Draft

Fabric Formation – combination of warp and weft interlacing due to shedding motion (shaft), controlled by pattern controlled mechanism (dobby)Weaving Plan; Weave

2.6 Relation between 2.6 Relation between Weave, Draft and Lifting Weave, Draft and Lifting Plan.Plan.

In the draft, there are 5 horizontal spaces which represent the shafts

There are 10 vertical spaces in the lifting plan, equal to the number of weft threads in the weave repeats

2.7 Elements Arrangement 2.7 Elements Arrangement on Weaving Planon Weaving Plan

C B

Lifting Plan on Left Position

Lifting Plan on Right Position

Task 1: Construct a weaving Task 1: Construct a weaving Plan from a Given WeavePlan from a Given Weave

Task 2:Task 2: Construct a Weave from a Construct a Weave from a Given Draft and Lifting PlanGiven Draft and Lifting Plan

Task 3:Task 3: Construct a Draft from a Construct a Draft from a Given Lifting Plan and WeaveGiven Lifting Plan and Weave