WOOLLEN CARDING SPINNING · 2017. 5. 9. · Fibre Specification For Carding Wools! Length After...
Transcript of WOOLLEN CARDING SPINNING · 2017. 5. 9. · Fibre Specification For Carding Wools! Length After...
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WOOLLEN CARDING
&
SPINNING
Niall Finn, Ray Wood
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Woollen Inputs
§ Broken Top § Stretch Broken Top § Carbonised Wool § Carbonised Noils § Low VM scoured wools § Synthetics § Exotic fibres § Recycled Fibres
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Broken Top § High Quality but short wools, § Usually lamb’s (often slipe) § Carded and combed by top-maker with noil
setting of 25 to 30mm then broken by roller draft and bailed for delivery
§ Expensive but good length and free of VM and most contamination
§ Specifications cover: micron, Hauteur, CVH
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Stretch Broken Top § Worsted tops stretch-broken to required length
§ Very expensive but good length and free of VM and most contamination, low short fibre content, guarantee zero long fibre content
§ tops may have been dyed before breaking
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Carbonised Wool § Range of input qualities: § high VM Fleece wools § Noils § Bellies § Pieces § Second cuts § Dags
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The Carbonising Process (a black art)
§ Inputs subjectively chosen to meet specs
§ Blending § Scouring § acidification (Conc.
Sulphuric) § Baking: cellulosic
material “carbonised”
§ Crushing, dusting § neutralising § bleaching § drying § testing: count VM § baling
NB: often only micron is guaranteed, most carbo types sold by sample, “guarantee” is that lot is like sample
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Woollen Inputs
§ Synthetics § Nylon § Acrylic § Polypropylene
Enhance production efficiency & product
performance
§ Exotics § Cashmere § Angora § Mohair § Alpaca
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Fibre Specification For Carding Wools § Fibre micron, “fibre length” (of staples) § Currently no good measure of carding wool
properties available to predict their processing and product performance in the way that the TEAM formula or TOPSPEC can.
§ Open & Broken Top specified like Worsted Tops
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Fibre Specification For Carding Wools § Length After Carding (LAC) § Developed by CSIRO and others, now being pushed
by AWTA for IWTO approval § LAC: samples carded on “standard” card , 3
passages of back draft gill then Almeter. § Most processors suspicious of its merits. § Carding Wools highly variable: good sampling
techniques are essential
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Fibre Specification For Carding Wools
§ Sirolan Tensor can provide measure of fibre bundle strength. § May correlate with performance in carding § May be measure of damage caused in carbonising or
dyeing § Research is on-going
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Loose Stock Dyeing
§ Conducted in large Vats § damages fibre § sets fibre in an entangled state: § causes fibre breakage in carding § provides colour blends that are only
obtainable in this way § Addition of auxiliaries
§ Anti-Setting Agents (ASA’s)
§ Sirolan LTD: allows lower temperatures to be used:
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BLENDING § Provides large scale uniformity of Product: § Colour: many different colours may be used in
woollen blends § Fibre: many different types may be used § Lubrication: up to 10% oil is used on Woollens
§ High short fibre content common, oil and adhesion aids keep fibre on the card: improves yield
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The Purpose of Carding § Opening & Individualisation of Fibres § Intimate Blending of Fibres § Parallelisation of Fibres § Formation of a uniform web § Division into “Slubbings” for Spinning
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The Woollen Carding Machine
The Scribbler Section
Woollen cards use flexible “fillet” wire to get higher point density than worsted cards
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The Woollen Carding Machine
The Finisher Section
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Woolen Card – Fore Part
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Woollen Card Intermediate
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Woollen Card Finisher Section
From Intermediate
To Condenser
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Woollen Card Condenser
Octir Woollen Card
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Woollen Card Condenser
Tape Splitting Rubbing section
Web from doffer
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Woollen Card Condenser
Tape Splitting
Rubbing section
Web from doffer
Rubbing section
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Woollen Card Condenser
Tape Splitting
Web from doffer
Rubbing section
To
Slubbing
Creel
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The Woollen Carding Machine
The Swift-to-Doffer-Speed-Ratio and the Fancy Lead determine Transfer Efficiency and hence the degree of fibre recycling.
Fancy Lead = 100% * (VF - VS)/VS
SDSR= VS /VD VD
VS
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Woollen Carding
Important Parameters: § Fibre micron
§ The more fibres in the yarn the more even it is
§ card wire limits micron range § yarn count dictated by micron >90fibres § tape width also limits range of counts
available
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Condenser Tape Width v. Yarn Count
Courtesy Tatham UK
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Woollen Carding
Important Parameters: § Fibre Length & Strength
§ The Longer the fibres the better § Stronger fibres maintain Length → better
yarns § Small Quantity of Synthetic fibre can
improve performance dramatically
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Woollen Carding
§ Generally, the lower the fibre loading the better the web evenness → better yarn
§ The weaker or shorter the fibres: § the lower the loading must be § the lower the maximum production rate
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Important Parameters: § Card Clothing and configuration limits the
range of fibre inputs § Roughly, fibre number is kept constant on
the card: finer fibres = lower kgs loading = lower speed
§ Coarser counts: faster delivery possible § Industrially, Swifts are not run faster than
450m/min. § Delivery ranges from 15m/min (fine counts)
to 50m/min (carpets)
Woollen Carding
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§ Yarn Structure: § entangled, fibre loops & surface hairs
provide “Woollen Character” § Gives BULK and HANDLE § Fabrics Often Milled & Raised § fewer fibres contribute to the yarn strength
compared to Worsted Yarns § Many more fibres required in cross-section:
usually >100
Woollen Character
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Woollen Spinning
§ Card Produces “Slubbings” [rovings]
§ Slubbings drafted against “false” twist on Spinning Frame or Mule and “real” twist inserted to form a yarn
§ Maximum draft in Woollen Spinning is about 1.3 to 1.5, slightly higher on Mules
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Woollen Ring Spinning Draft
Back Draft Rollers
Front Draft Rollers False twister
Slubbing
Draft = VF / VB
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Woollen Ring Spinning
Spindle
Surface drum
Delivery rollers
Draft rollers
False Twister
Ring & Traveller
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Mule Spinning
Delivery Rollers
Spindle on moving carriage
Slubbing Bobbins from card
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Woollen Spinning Draft
§ As Draft Increases up to ~1.35: § Fibres straighten § Strength Increases § Extensibility decreases § Above ~1.35 Quality decreases
§ Drafting twist level affects draft quality § varies according to Spinning frame § αm~30 is optimal on CSIRO’s frame
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Dilemmas:
Increased Fibre Quality Increases Input costs
BUT Increases Efficiency
Increases Product Quality Decreases Conversion Costs
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Increased Card Production Rate Decreases Carding Cost
BUT ALSO CAN Decrease Quality
Decrease Spinning Efficiency Decrease Weaving Efficiency
Increase costs
Dilemmas:
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Dilemmas:
Higher Spindle Speed = Higher Productivity
= Lower Cost BUT ALSO
= higher tension = higher end breakage rate
=higher labour cost = more joins
=lower quality
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Woollen Products
§ Knitted fabrics § Woven fabrics § Carpets: Tufted and
Woven § Felts
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Metric Twist Factor αm= t.p.m./ √Nm
§ Knitting Yarns: softer, lower twist § Knitting Twist Range αm = 65 to 85
§ Weaving Yarns need strength § Warp αm = 85 to 120 § Weft αm = 75 to 95
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After Spinning
§ Similar to Worsted, thin & thick faults removed § Twisting:
§ Two-fold or Three-fold common for knitting § Provides twist balance - no Spirality § Two-fold sometimes used for warp yarns
§ Hanking: § Allows yarn to be dyed and set in relaxed
state providing desirable YARN BULK
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After Spinning
§ Steaming: § Occurs at various stages to set twist
§ Balling: § for hand knitting yarns only
§ Tufting § To make carpets and specialist
products like polishing discs and car seat covers
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Woollen Yarn Units
Counts: § Tex = g/km = 1000/Nm § Metric Nm = m/g = 1000/Tex § YWS, Yorkshire Woollen Skein = 1942 / Tex = Nm / 1.942
(YWS = length in yards that balances a 1/16 oz.)
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Woollen Yarn Units
Twist: § tpm = turns per metre § tpi = turns per inch = tpm/39.4 Twist Factors: § metric, αm= t.p.m./ √Nm § Twist multiplier = tpm √tex § Twist multiplier = tpi / √YWS