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    2 50

    OTES FROM T SHOPO 3 7

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    WOODSMITIi

    . .

    fi .(Eito;

    ro .

    WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114)

    1$

    P < J b I i s h e d

    bimonthly (January. Marcil. May. July.

    Sep

    _. Nov_I

    by

    W oodsmith f'ubIisIjng

    Co,.

    22OOG t a t k : I o l x i So.;Ol&1fU. :' u.-~o J-lJiar:Ckt(il,, 'l.I~,I, t''''llH't'oQf ,,~8~.

    s..~..tof~ ..

    w,1IIILIy: 0011(fl).

    Jh,.

    Annual t lUb to i pdon ~ tl{l.OO .....

    I llalbnlf ..dll 4 '(

    ktll'l ''' ~

    of

    pl.'blirxtjon

    1 : b J O Gnulid A\ 't fI IK ', I ) rf . '~ ., IJ'OI k ( ( lQ lIQ ' l .IO ' I I . . ~ I t .

    ii.

    CCInI_pItt. CMiq

    wid ,

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    otJ.:CIIII'nd

    bcuI~

    ~ot ~pu~ =W(;1'VIdA~.M~ I~mt.. C-GIrI~t..,,'d .,otpubl..~.~h'QI',nd~ry:Mlt

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    3

    OODSMITH

    c rawl in side the cabinet to

    mark

    th e lo ca

    tio n of th e hinges on the cab ine t stile .

    I

    finally eam e up

    with this

    Simple

    'method

    that is h elpfu l w he n mo un tin g a number of

    doors.

    First, I m ounted the hinges in the cor

    rect

    location

    on the edge of

    a door,

    Then

    1

    made s to ry s tick out of a piece of VI th ick

    SCI.,.p.1cut it as long as the hEtight o f th e

    door opening and as wide as the door

    th ickness.

    Next, Ientered th e strip alo ng sid e th e

    edge of the door and fl ipped th e hinges

    o ver o nto it.

    I

    carefully marked the

    loca

    tio n o f a l l t he

    screwholes

    in th e hinges on to

    the strip . T hen

    I

    rille d h oles all

    til.

    way

    l I OU9 the W strip at theS R O UT E R

    lAeL E PEDESTAl

    MACHINES ON WHEELS

    Like mall) h orn e w oo dw ork ers J hav e

    m ore to ols th an s p a c e By mounting some

    of the larger m achines on casters I'm able

    to r oll th em in to po sitio n when Ie ed th em

    an d ou t of the w ay w hen Ion't. The prob

    lem was that 1 didn't want to work on

    machines raised up high on rolling or lock

    do wn casters. an d 1c ou ld n't e as ily adapt

    t he expens iv e r et ra ct able casters to many

    of m y larg e m ac hines .

    __ T_~ Technigu_e_s__

    CUt lOCK TOSUOt

    IN OAOO. MAIM

    O.STANCES OF

    C; :O M M O N A N G L S

    DRILLING JIG IMPROVED

    It was a gr eat help to lise the angled drill-

    ingjig (Wooll .mitll No. 35 , page 22 ) to dr il l

    the sl an ted pockets fo. the w ing struts in.

    the biplane. But Iound i~ even easier

    when

    I

    made a modif ication on the-jig .

    011 . of the problem s I noticed vas that

    the m al l wooden block between the two

    pieces of pl; a

    o/,oN -w idea(jo in t he base piece of plywood

    ,befooo attaching the hinges. I then cut a

    new longel ' bloc k that would fi t tightly into

    th e dado but could si lll be J ;' e) 110 \'ed .

    I'also mark ed di stances on the b lock that

    '\'ould indicate commonly tiRed angles.

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    W OOI)S M ITH

    OUTSIDE CS-

    WASHER

    CUTTING DIAGRAM

    \ . CtA .

    SOUOflyn

    .. .. A ..

    @

    Wll

    131

    21III

    ty 1% 3

    H form.co (2)

    Woode n Co c h ( 2)

    soU lIGS 101

    UNOIsrlucrED

    fOlDIWG ACTION

    WAN fXAGOElAftD)

    ,. HOlI

    .lOU'110 fN STOCK

    Y.roll D'm4' ,MHtl 23V.w III 16d .. 26' h

    A

    -9

    (4' y- ...

    11.

    214

    Stretct..r (1)

    v

    I' ,.

    19h

    C

    c.-ba,t) ~.

    1 6 \1 0

    o

    ~

    llodts (2) V . III 1t; 3

    E Frome 5,;1 (2' ''', 1% 3V

    f F ro me R o it . . 2

    ty.

    'It 23 tf4

    G

    Plywood

    (1) t III 13V.. 2tV.

    to shape o n a disc sander.

    Next,

    all

    the edges o n bo th

    sides of the legs are cham-

    fe re d. T he e asie st

    way

    to do

    this is on

    a

    r ou te r ta ble u sin g

    a

    c ha mfe r b it w ith p ilo t. (N o te :

    An option is to ro un d over all

    the edges wilh a

    Y

    comer

    round bit. This can be done

    a ny wh ere th e p ro je ct ealls fo r

    a chamf er .)

    MATCI ~ EGS. Next, h o le s

    are d rille d il) t he le gs to mo un t

    th e Rotc-Hinges. However .

    befo re dr illin g th e ho le s, it's

    best to pair up the legs to de-

    te rm ine how they fit together

    bes t.

    If the leg s

    are warped,

    they

    should bo matched

    so

    th e w ar p

    doesn't in te rf ere with the fold

    ing

    action,

    see

    ~ 'ig . 2. TeSI

    ea ch pai r of leg s fO I' tho best,

    ac tion and m ark the sides tha t

    w ill face each other.

    DRILL OL~ Now dri ll ~

    holes on th e marked sid es fo r

    th e Ro ta -Hin ges,

    refer to

    tig.

    4 . Thes e ho les ar c loo ltl ecl 12'

    down fro m the top o f each leg ,

    see Sid e V iew in Fig. 3. Note:

    These ho le s are no t ce ntered

    on th e length o f the legs.

    w anted to

    provide a l itt le w ider stan ce at the bo ttom

    of 'he legs,

    so

    the hinge (pivo t pelo t) is

    shifted u p a little.

    HOLESAT TOP 0 L&(;S. There are also

    holes at the to p o f e ach leg. O n the o l

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    5

    v

    5 .H A N iC

    HOLE

    O U T S I O E lE G

    1 1 / .. .. x 1 / .

    _ .- S T R E T C H A

    C ::ROSS SE c :: T ION

    1

    3

    COUN JlE tiBORf

    y

    DEE P

    @

    PlVOl aloe.:

    \~. I ,.,

    Off HOLlS

    OUTslOf

    l O

    HO tE

    CEN TfJtfD

    R O M

    T O P E O G E

    Ul S

    R~OIUS

    tN S ID E Li G OOT1 0E I.f G

    ~IDE VE ~

    C R O S S S E CT IO N

    R OU ND O VER

    D E T A I L

    ~ .. HO L E S

    ......- Ofa>

    f O ,

    RO T O H I N G

    iVOl~oCtc

    s t E -

    O ff Al L .

    FIG

    \ D O W C

    16lh' tONG

    T R O T O . H ING

    .

    ,

    , -

    t

    l

    2

    n

    _ : Y

    I

    J 7 }

    Ji fG U R E

    3 :

    WOODSMITH

    FI G U RE 7

    PIV01 BIlOC J( . N ow pivot blocks (D ) are

    neeaed

    to

    join the legs

    to

    the tray:

    To

    make

    th..se blocks, first eu~ two pleces H~' wfde

    by 3' long, see Fig. 6. Then drill a 0 / . hal.

    for the Rotc-Hinge, centered on the length

    and width

    of

    the black.

    Next,

    counterbore

    ~di8.

    holes in the

    pivot

    blocks,

    and

    follow

    with

    o/t6~dia.

    shank

    ho les .

    (Note: Cheek the depth oflhe

    counterbore

    so lV :-tong

    screws

    extend

    only

    into

    tlj e \ > f t . .plywood

    tray

    bo p.)

    After the holes are drilled round the

    0 0 1

    ners to a t radius, see Step 3 in Fig. 6.

    t\IOUNT -R()T().Hlr,-; '

    holes

    at

    the

    ends of the stretcher for No.8 x

    tW woo d -

    SCle \\S,

    se e Fig,

    S .

    After the stretcher

    is

    glued and screwed

    to the legs, filJ the

    eounterbores

    with

    plugs, S811ding

    th e m s mo oth

    with

    th e s ur-

    fa ce

    of the stretcher,

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    6

    'UNO' INTOBIT

    .,

    CHAMnR ~ MAtlC 1 IN

    .~ Y

    yA ....OOM ,HO

    V( ./

    ~

    'H)

    I'AN[~

    M et

    ust a.ISfllO

    RMISH CHAMfER

    GlUllOf' 10GtTH l.

    1KfN tOUND OVH

    COHU

    ~

    > :

    Sir flNCllO

    THICKNESS0'

    P lYWOOD

    fEN(E

    MAKi RS' tASS

    WOOOSMITH

    T HE TR A Y TOP

    After the legs are built, all that's needed is

    a

    tray top.

    Th e one shewn in th e p ho to is an

    oak frame with the Formic. panel. To

    make the tray,

    1

    started

    with

    the panel.

    The panel is piece of

    AlC plywood

    with Formiea laminated to both sides, Cut

    the plywood (G )

    and

    the Fo rm i ca ( H ) o v er

    size

    (o.

    least

    ~ larger

    in both directions)

    to allow

    fo r

    trimming .

    Lo \MJNAT E 1 '1 1 F OR o>IICA . Then laminate

    the Formica to the plywood by .presding

    oontactcement onboth

    surfaces.

    When the

    cement

    is

    dry to the touch, place dowet..

    along

    the plywood (see Fig_ 10),

    and

    align

    the Formica at one end of the plywood.

    Then removeonedowelat a lime,p~ing

    the Formica down as you go.

    Shop Note: The bottom of the pl)'wood

    must also becovered with Formica. If only

    one side

    is

    covered, moisture

    from

    the air

    can still penetrate the exposed plywood

    side, and the panel ill warp.

    CUT FRoL\lR PIECS.

    Now the frame

    pieces can be cut to rough size. Rip the

    rails (F) and stiles (El to a width of

    l Y o o

    and cut them 10 rough length (about,

    y

    longer than shown in t'ig. 9).

    cur GROOVES.

    N ex t, gro oves are eu1 .o n

    the edges of the frame pieces to accept. the

    panel, refer to Pig. 11. To set up this cut,

    use the Formica-covered panel to ndjusl

    the distance between the fence and tho

    outside of the blade, ace 'ig. 12.

    Set the depth of cut to

    %'

    and mnke

    pass on each frnme piece, ICeStep 2. Then

    flip the piece around so the other faeo i~

    against the fence, and make another PMS

    onall pieces, see Step 3. finally, adjustth.

    fence to clean out the w te left between

    the first two cuts.

    RABBET FORMICA.Mer the groove. nre

    cut, go back to work on the panel. rirst,

    trim the panel to linal~ize, see Fig. 9. Then

    rabbet the back (bottom) side with a ~'

    rabbeting bit. see fig. 13.Sneak up on the

    depth of cut so the remaining tongue tits

    snugly

    in

    the groo\-es

    in

    the frame.

    CL'TTO LESGTlL Now Ihe frnme pieces

    can be cut to final length. The stile. (E) are

    cut to length to match the width of the

    panel (13;'). The rails (F) are cut to

    length

    to

    match tbe distance between the

    shoulders of the rabbets on the panel

    (2Ov. )

    plus the width of the two stiles

    (I

    y,,'

    each), for a total of 23. .

    CL'Tro sellE . To join the frame memo

    bers, cut rabbets at the ends of the .. iles to

    produce tongue. that

    fit

    the grooves, see

    Fig. 14.

    C8AMFR EDGES. Next, I cut chamfer

    on the inside edge. of the frame to ease the

    transition between the panel and the

    frame. This chamfer is cui along the entire

    length of the stiles, but must be stopped on

    the rails. refer to Fig. 14.

    To make the stopped cut, mark. point

    2

    TO P C H AM fE R

    'ZIN AOM END

    fiG UR E lA o

    OUI'

    -

    , ,~tll).J

    )',

    r4:~li-.l-----:3-..1 .t=

    ::r: ::~c ......U T WA ST E

    ON RNAl PASS

    2

    , fENCE

    ~

    IAl'

    ,

    RAIL

    SAWalAOt

    fO RM ICA

    I~

    FU'

    flIice

    tNO-tel.END.

    MAKE 5ECO,.0

    PASS

    GtoOVI((HltltD

    ON SlOOC \ 0 \ - . P lYWOOD

    .

    -.:_\. - _ . .-

    ..- L 1-:-

    __L

    ifiOVl( 11

    .. 10

    ffGUIl9

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    7

    lH.....cr

    , 10111

    i:.~~~~T~;;~~-~~

    C U T Y'

    NOTCHIS ro

    ~ WIN' AItOUNO

    ~ COINflS

    SI VlNn lASt

    AOH1S1Vl.10 GWl

    I

    '_

    U.sl

    I.,

    SlOT

    cun W ITH

    ,OT

    OIitOOVI

    /

    CI NT lRIO

    ON STOCI

    :...._~ -

    ._

    %

    Pl'l'WOOO'ANll

    t tAOIU

    oN COINIIS

    \

    fo r p ly w o o d to p

    ; ~ / ~L . . J

    < . . . 2 O ~

    Aovr

    o.oov,

    IN--

    ....... ~ COUNT '.CLOCl\YtSE

    DllltChoN

    ~

    ,.

    ,.

    HOlf

    2

    WOODEN ...

    CA TCH ......

    ~

    .\ . t . . . . _ ,

    .A OIU S

    w o o r

    CAfCt-4

    _ r : ~ ; .

    t

    ~

    II.. GltAltA NCt

    1

    p tVOT & lOOK

    ,

    lIGU. 20

    r . : .

    ou tS IDE

    I -

    \VOODSMITli

    molding to}ield a clean joint, see fig. 6.

    T MOL ING

    W. also tried another version .fthe tray

    lO p uhing.y, oak plp,ood with plastic

    T'IQolding 10 eever

    lh e

    edR~

    To

    make I

    hi,

    panel, cut the pl) od 23'Y,long

    by

    16 wide, and round the corners to I

    rll

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    WOODSMITH

    CUnlNG DIAGRAM

    A

    _P.....

    ~ It 21 211.

    8

    SoM St,.fc.h.,.. 2

    1 1/,14

    C

    Hood 1)

    11 3. 14

    D

    MiddJ. Stretche, 1 Y. lilt 14

    Uprigh.. 2

    -V ,. 1

    It : a I

    ~,,~..ot.lI.

    I\- WlO I D A DO

    N1tI[D ON

    S1OOI :

    M T RILS LIST

    We thought it would be niee to 'Ihen cut it by making multiple

    have a stand to holda set of four

    passes

    over the sawblade.

    T. trays. And because of the LAlliNATE THEBASE.Now the

    weight of four tra)'$ (it adds up

    boards

    can

    be

    glued and

    c lamped

    quickly). we designed the stand together to fonn the bases. As

    with casters. the clamps are tightened. the

    This stand is giant inverted pieces may slip a ro un d little -

    1 that holds the trays leanto buttry to keep the top edge. and

    fashion. Tobuild it. I started with the ends aligol.

    the b a s e p~. When the glue is dry (ever-

    THEBASES. ac h b a s e corutiSIJ night). cut the laminatoo pair to

    of two pieces (A) laminated final size by trimmingofrthe bot-

    togelher. see Fig. t'inlt cut tom edge and both ends. Then to

    four pieces of stock to rough complete the bases, round the

    size.mwideby 23'long. (These corners to a

    radius. and cham-

    piee.. Star1.out oversize to pro- fer all edge.~on a router table.

    vide some room for trimming TUE BASE STRETCII&RS. The

    aft er

    they're laminated.)

    bases

    are joined

    to

    two stretehe ....

    SOTCII&S. Nowlayout the posi- (8). Cut these base stretch ....

    lion of the notches that hold the Iy wide and to rough length

    end. of the tray tables. First (15~.Then determine the final

    mark a lino centered on the length by placing on. of the T.

    length of two of the boards, sec tray leg a.. embli inthe notches

    Fig. I. Then mark the location of of lhe bases, see Pig. 2. Measure

    four pairs of1(.(holes to form the the distance between the inside

    corners of the notches. facesofthe bas , subtract ~. for

    W orking from the centerline clear-cincoand cu t the s tr e tche rs

    out, mark the centerpolnts of the to this final length.

    holes fOI he first pair of notches IIAN OL~ AND STRKTCIIE R.

    SOthe first hole i8 centered 411. Next, to join the uprights. the

    from each side of the centerline handle

    e)

    and middle stretcher

    and ~. down from the top edge. 0 arc cut to width (se. tlg. 3).

    Thenthe secondholeoflh. psiri. and both pieces are cut to the

    marked IV.' away. For ~he out- same length as the base stretch-

    side notches the first holes are ers (B).

    centered m from the center- --------- ~---------- TUt: QA.'/1)LE.After the blank

    tine. and the second holes of the pair are SF COSO HOARD notched boa rd s for the handle is cut to size. drill holes to

    also lW' away. are laminated to second boards that have m a r k the shape of the hsndhold.... Fig.

    CU I om NOTCH.Aller the position. of large dadoes (or lap joints) centered on 3. Then cut out the shape with sabre sa

    w;

    the bole. arc marked on both boards, drill their length. (\Vben the two boards arc and sand the edges smooth. F~naIly.cham

    the %'-dia. holes. Then usc a sabre saw or laminated together. this dadoaeuially ere- fer (or round over) the top and beuem

    band saw tocut the notches to shape. Fin- ates a mortise for the upright. see Fig.

    l.}

    edge. of the handle and the hand-held.

    ally,sand the edges olthe notches smooth, Mark lhe position ofthis I~'-wide dado THEUPRIGHTS. The last pieces to cut for

    rounding over the top corners. soit ... ntered on the length of the board. the stand are the uprights E).The up

    ~ ~~U. ~ ~l ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~

    . . .

    r ~ H O U ~ ~ ~ : ~ = - t - ~ ~ ~ ? ~ ; - ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ P l ~ . j - - - i - ~

    ,~.. ..._ -.-r

    tADWS - 2.

    1 ; .

    LV . Tr~y_S_ ta_n_d _

    R OLL AR OU N D ST OR AGE

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    9

    VOODSMITH

    . AGU

    , . . .

    ,. ti 'g V

    TVTRAY1I0S-.,

    I t A O I U S

    I - l'/..-..

    t HOd

    .

    $Yo '

    . .

    nt~ .. ~' ~~

    ~ ' . ( ' ' ' , , , S 1 O C 1 < \ ~

    . .

    ...-{+) ,

    r . + - . -

    _ j_

    ~r.:~ ~ /

    . .

    ~ ;Q,:~

    j_

    \, 1Ia HOlI

    ~f

    j

    N

    ~ l':' IIi

    -.

    -

    CtlfTOM

    ~~

    HANDlE ANO SfHTCHE.S A Rl S AM EU HGTK

    U SI 4,4 (lV ,61 STOC K

    J . .

    vi

    ~~W ~

    ~~

    I

    ,

    I , , , , TIIToe:

    3

    TOr~:~.~~\ ~~~R~~s

    UT TO f iT

    .IT

    / ,V ,~;P

    righlSare cut 10width (Iii ) 10maid> the

    I\~;

    MOlt Gull

    NGUIt.

    C l, OS S ~ ~s; ;nON

    CINTfRfD ~

    width of the dado (mortise) in the base,

    l_ONSlOC,2- ::.;.---

    -,I: ~ ..

    rcfer to Detail B in Fig. 7.

    h._

    I

    COUNTUIOII

    : a t

    _:::>

    ut them to a length of 331 , , and then .....::: -::/ SCIAP

    cut half laps on the bottom ends to fit the

    \Ji

    l~ PIICl

    ~ , S I . r W . . . I ' @ j

    >I,

    ortises.

    To

    complete the uprights, round

    J _

    /

    he top 001.1'8 to V radius and chamfer

    ~ ~ j

    ~

    he edges, stopping at

    the

    sboulder of tbe

    .W l _ ;, . v

    : ' - < >

    ~\1J~ ~

    half.lap on the bottom end.

    r e t / .

    1 ./

    DRill ,,~,. r:.........:

    ~~lOT~~

    SSE .M8LY

    NO Tf C UTseau 'liCf

    ,-Oil

    ~ . : r

    TO SAM(

    WIOnc

    ....-}.._5._; ~

    ow that

    all

    the pi'_ are cut to final size,

    tr ~ ~

    AN O

    fH l(:KNtSS-

    they can be assembled. 1 did this by gluing

    ASSTlElQ4(ItS

    ~

    nd screwing them together.

    , . . . . . _ ,~ . . . . : : : : : : : ,

    . . . .

    'rhe only problem here is drilling the

    ~,

    I .~

    pilot holes for the screws exactly where

    US.OAUGE

    ta

    a 0 iJO S ll lON

    ~~.. PlUGS

    yo u \\ Mt them. S inc e the re s no easy way

    HOLESIN US l

    -

    WOOOSClfW

    to clamp the pieces together to drill the

    untoHTS

    pilot holes, ( made a drilling gauge to mark

    DETAILA

    r

    the position of the holes. ' -

    f r l . . . . ; < s ; ;

    lF.GAUGE.

    To

    make the gauge, cut a

    T ~ 1

    - : >

    J

    iece of 414scrap

    to

    the same width as the

    1 IEil

    HA ND LI A ND

    1 -.

    e

    handle and stretchers (1 . t wide), See Fig.

    ST a.IlCHII

    . .

    . .

    ClNTI.EO

    o . Then mark two holes centered * from

    ONSfOCI(

    the edg< s of the stock.

    Orin

    v .

    holes at

    i S fM I.t. TOP

    1(1 .5 BEFORE

    these points with a Portalign, see Fig, 4,

    G lU IN G IN TO

    Now cut orr the end of the scrap piece to

    produce the gauge.

    ,. . . . .

    ( )

    ~IARKPIWTHOLES.

    To

    mark the position

    \

    .

    lONG

    I

    H A L F L A P

    -~

    8 1

    fr O fh

    of the pilot holes on the base, center the

    (i)

    INON

    Ul f

    i -

    WOOOSCtW)

    block between the two notches, and equal

    fiT

    distance (Ii ) from the top and bottom

    MOI1\S

    ~:

    dges, see Fig. 5. Then use an awl to.mark

    -wo points forthe pilot holes. Use the same

    ;::.

    . . -

    CHA M FER

    guide on the upright to mark the position of

    @

    A U ED GES

    ~

    the pilot holes C o r the handle and the

    stretcher, see Detail A in Fig. 7.

    -

    O lU l l l b 8

    ~r

    No,,) drill pilot holes in the base I1 d

    uprights, counterboring % deep for.

    3)1;.

    ood plug, see Fig. 6. The same gauge can

    I .

    be used to mark the poSition of the pilot

    ~ ~TO CHMV

    oles in the ends of the stretchers and the

    ~

    handle. (Use a Portalign to drill the pilot

    holes in the ends of these pieces.

    RETAILC

    ,~

    ASSEMB~V,

    o

    assemble the stand, glue

    ~

    11 (1

    screw

    the stretchers

    between

    the

    ; : - W n ?

    ,;-: - v

    bases. Then before mounting the uprights,

    ~o

    I mounted the casters to the base, see

    11._

    :.r. .

    Detail C. in Fig. 7, (it's a lot easier to do it

    ~. c-- '

    beCore tbe uprights are in the way.) F'in-

    IV .

    e ~~

    IEfQl.E GW1HG

    handle between the uprights, and then

    ON

    USE TOTOI

    glue the uprights in the mortises.

    STOCK

    ASSMlty

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    WOODSNlITH

    ~NCH CfNTtR

    WITH AWl

    1-,-

    SU G H TL Y

    R E A M

    H O L E T O PS

    W IT H

    L A RG E R aIT

    y . . -

    HOLES

    CENTERED

    ON STOa:t(

    NOTe : M I NI M U M L E N G T H

    F O R S A m a O O M

    C AalN E r D O O RS

    l'vea}wayswantedtomakeaset combination square to the

    of louvered doors. No, I'U take approximate center and mark

    that back.'What I really wanted lines from

    ot

    sides. Then it's

    'vas to know how to cut the easy to centerpunch a point

    angled slots that hold th.. Iouv- exactly centered between these

    ers in place: Coming up with the lines, see Fig 2.

    jig to cut these slots presented DRILL HOLES. Drjl l the \4'

    an interesting challenge, index holes I deep down the

    The slots

    aU

    have to be cut at edge of the Tail.Then switch to.

    the same angle. and they have to countersink bit (or use a o

    be evenly spaced. Since these twist bit, as shown in the detail

    are two separate tasks, it's in Fig. 1) to chamfer the edge of

    appropriate that the jig I came the holes so it's aasierto insert

    upwith to do this consist$oftwo the index pin.

    pa~t, there's a template that T H E T fM PL AT E

    guides the router to cut the The 14 holes on this indexing

    angled slots on the edge

    of

    the rail are used to move a template

    stile (vertical piece oftbe door). in l' increments. The template,

    And second, th~Te'san indexing in turn, guides the router so

    rail that prcvidea a way to cuts stopped grooves at a 20

    ''walk'' the template down the angle along the edge of the

    stile in even,

    1

    increments. workpiece (door stile),

    Shop Note; The jig described THE TE~IPLA'I'E. The template

    here could be modified to cut consists ofa Masonite base with

    dcuble-stopped slots forthe lou- two fences that hold both the

    vers Itbe way most commercial :--:- -:--:- :-:::-_::-_-:---:_ workPiece and the .indexing rail

    operations do it), but it would also tosize,anuay,'holecenteredl 'fromthe in place when the slots are routed, see

    require the USeof a plunge route.r. end of the rail for the stop pin. Since both Fig. 3. ('tote; The jig we used for the

    Instead, we cut slots that are stopped sides of the rail are used, this pin sticks photo has-a Plexiglas base so you can see

    onone end and open.onthe other end. The Ollt on both sides, see GI'< SSection in tbe routed slots, But I'd recommend

    open ends (on the back side of the door) Fig. 1. Masonite forthe actual base.)

    are covered with keeper strips

    to

    hold the

    IND f lX lNG

    noJ.ll$. Next, mark the

    posi-

    THE

    PBN C E .

    'lb

    maketlie template, first

    louvers in place, see Fig. 24. tionsorthe indexboleaon the top edge of cut two fences, IV'1'wide by 11'long out

    the Tail. The first hole is centered aV o of 0 / plywood,see Fig. 3.

    TH E IN D EXIN G R AIL r

    ebesto . Th k ffl THE BASE.Then cut the base out of a

    om Swl' pm. en mar 0 more

    'lb make the jig, I started with the index- positions or a total 0(14) in I increme- piece of Y . Masonite so it's 11' long

    to

    ing rail. Choose a-straight piece o[ stock ots along the length ofthe rail. At each match the length of the fences). The

    2V ,

    wid. by 24' long, see Fig

    1.

    position draw crosslines centered on-the width ofthe base-is determined by adding

    Design Note: For convenience, the thickness of the Tail

    to

    mark tho canter- up the combined width of the two fences,

    length shown here for the indexing rail is points of the \4' Index holes. plus the thickness of the index rail and

    based on building the louvered doors for Shop Note: Sin,ce 'York i. dono from the workpiece (door stile), see Template

    the cabinet shown on page 14. These both sides of the indexing rail, make sure Base Betail in Fig. 3.

    doors are 9 wide by 17 long. these holes are exactly centered on the DRILL HOLES. After the base is cu.t to

    STOPPIN.After the indexing rail is cut thickness of the rail. To do this, set a size, mount the' fences by drilling Y .

    GUJ ; 2

    A R O U T ERJIG T O D O T H E JO B

    ouvered oors

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    -

    't. _

    GUIDE

    IIUSHING

    OUIIE 1

    C H I C f t c E Y H O I I S L O T

    WITH

    oun ,

    IU SHIHO

    _

    CLE N ou r

    W stE

    W f fH C M JU l

    IAlStltlS O f ,- .

    HOllS ClNTI.tO

    O WU f

    ffGUU 9

    11

    tORNER DETAIL

    NC.

    HNet

    o

    I : : t

    UH

    o

    l tNOlXING J I..

    IMUHI

    _J

    ~VOUT NGLE

    O N S QflA PIECE

    I HOl

    1 . . .

    ll

    ;SIVtl

    SU D INO

    1.

    ftGUI6

    r

    WOODSMITI-

    hole. centered on the width and

    0/.

    from

    the end of each fence, see Hole Detail in

    Fig. 3. Then drill 0 / 0 holes in the base

    eentered directly below tbe v holes.

    (The oversieed

    holesin the base allow for

    minor adjustments when the workpiece

    is mounted in the jig.

    LA our GVII)E sun: Next, a keyhole

    shaped slot i. eut in the base of the tem

    plate to guide the router at

    25,

    refer to

    Fig.

    11 .

    To layout this slot, the position of

    the indexing rail has tohe marked on the

    Masonite base.

    To do this.lirst bolt one of the fences to

    the bese, lining up the outside edge of

    tbis fe nce so 1 1 . . nush with the edge oftbe

    base. see Fig. 4. From here on this is

    referred to 88 the fixed fence.l

    .lARK

    LINes. Draw a line along the edge

    of the fixed

    f en c e, s ee

    Fig.

    4

    Then hold

    the indexing rail tight against the fixed

    fenooand draw another line, see Fig. 5.

    S :TT.8 VEI.. Nowthe centerline of the

    k.eyholeslot ean be marked. Remove the

    f ,edf.nee and

    use

    aslidingT-bevel

    set

    to

    an angle of 25to mark the eeeterlme of

    the .lot,

    8

    Fig. ?

    Shop owThe way set the T-bevelat

    25 6>was

    to

    draw tw o lines 57/a apart on a

    pie

    ce

    of

    scrap

    Maaonite. aeeFig. 6Then

    J

    marked Point. A on the rust line so it s

    2 ; y . up from tho bottom edge, and marked

    Point B whore the seeond line intersects

    the bottom edge. Draw a line eonneeting

    the two points and a

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    WOODSM1Tli

    2

    I

    UTTING T SLOTS

    Once the indexing rail and the template

    are complete, all that s needed isan index

    pin to position the template along the

    indexing rail.

    INDEX PIN.

    The index pin is a 3 hex

    head bolt with the head cut ofT.Tomake it

    a Ijttle easier towork with. I cuta wooden

    d.iscandattached it to the threaded end of

    the bolt, see Detail in Fig. 12.

    cersruzs

    Thejig isready touse anhis

    point - now it's just a matter of cutting

    the stiles

    to

    size. mounting them in the

    jig,

    and

    routing the slots. However. J

    round it's a lot easier

    to

    work

    with

    stiles

    that are cut to double width.

    That is. cut a workpiece wide enough

    for two

    stiles, plus an ex tra ~ ..

    to

    trim

    them tofinal width, seeFig. 12.AlIIO,his

    piece should be cut about 3 longer than

    needed and trimmed to finallengtb aficr

    the s lo ts are c ut.

    (A

    workpiece 3 . N ' wide

    by 20 long is needed for the stiles on the

    bathroom cabinet door.)

    MOU.''T \VORKPIECE TO RAIL. C lamp this

    workpiece to

    the

    indexing rail 80 the top

    edges are flush, and the back ond is

    firmly against the stop pin, see Fig. 12.

    . OONTTEP LAl E.Before mounting tho

    routing template, make sure the fixed

    fence is flush with the outaide edgeofthe

    Masonite base and tightened down

    firmly. Then place ~he template on tho

    top edge of the clamped assembly (sec

    End View in Fig. 12), and push the

    acijustable fence snug against the work-

    piece and tighten down the wing nuts.

    llOur SLOTS.Place this whole ..... mbly

    in a vise and insert the index pin in the

    first bole oflhe indexing rail, see Fig. 13.

    Then

    to rout the slots, mount a

    straight bit and a

    0/,.

    (outer diameter)

    guide bushing in the router, and sct the

    aepth of cut to rout a Yo deepslot.

    Now tip the router on the template

    11 0

    the guide bushing goes into the keyhole

    slot and rout to the end efth.slot. (In ease

    the slot is fractionally wider than the

    bushing, rout against one side of the slot

    and then against the other side.)

    From here on things get boring. Just

    keep moving the index pin to the next

    bole and rout the next slot (see Fig. 14)

    until 14 slota are routed.

    FLIP

    PESCES

    After the slota are routed

    on

    one

    edg e or the

    workpiec e,

    the fenees

    on the template have to be flipped to the

    other side of the base to rout the slota on

    the other edge.

    What youwant to dohere is switch the

    fences from the bottom of the jig to the

    top, keeping them

    On

    the same edges of

    the base as before,

    See

    Step 1 in Fig. 15.

    Then remount the carriage bolta, see

    Step 2. Now flip the jig over (see Step 3)

    and it s in position to rout the slotaon the

    other edge of the stile.

    I OStJION IAIl

    T~d tt

    ,. FIOM UNt-

    : J l< l ::

    T O P

    o

    UHf

    ou.W SOU.. I

    E )

    -

    ACiOSS (NO

    OfAISl lOl

    I

    ;

    SOUAa

    .. .- .

    AC.oSS

    ~

    Of

    L A ST S L OT

    MAlI( OU 1$.D t

    ED GE

    Of

    RA il T O

    --o \A RI( OUT SlDfc

    OnlltMlHI

    EDGEOF iAlt

    IENOTH0' tlll

    DEtER M IN E L EN GT H

    IOnoM./

    Of STili

    NO

    CUT 1 TH

    snus

    fORMAl WlDtK

    tL O JE; KEY H O U: S L O T O N

    OrPOsn 510

    IlIAUGH RXIO flNCI WITH

    1001 Of flMPlAfl &ASt

    -'-IXIO

    INC

    F U P JIO O V E R

    lEC . Since the jig is

    flipped around. the workpiece

    h a s

    to be

    flipped and mounted to the other side of

    the indexing rail. Switch it around S O the

    first set of slots are now on the bottom

    edge hut still poinang to the indexing

    rail, see Fig. 16.

    ROI1l'SLOTS. After swit

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    WOODSM IT H

    G

    E ; , , , l , a . l , .~ u l w.~ ,: ,~

    I

    + . X 7V.-. TWO IOA.OS

    CUnlNG DIAGRAM

    f

    1 O

    ''V..XIIh17

    ' I. x rw

    II x1~.6V ..

    V,.

    X6

    29 h,

    '.. X 6. 17Ve

    'JlI. X

    4h 17V

    VI

    C

    7'n. 19~

    I dow.'

    Vt

    1 -

    plywood

    Cl,lt

    to

    flf)

    A Door Sttl.. (4)

    8 Door Roll. (4)

    C Louv.,.. (28)

    o Cabin.t Sid (2)

    E Cabin,t

    Top/lim.

    (2)

    F

    tewer

    Sh.l, (1)

    GCop{l)

    HTow.I lor (1)

    , aa,k{l)

    O .nlil o;~ilon:9V.- w x 7 1. d )(

    30 -

    MATIRIALS LIST

    wanted them

    I< >

    overlap the top

    and bottom of the cabinet V . .

    see

    Frent View in Fig.

    1.

    'lb

    pro

    duoc this:v. overlap, the middle

    dado must be positioned so

    there's a 16V opening between

    tho top nnd bottom of the

    cabinet.

    8

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    SC1tEW lO W Ell:

    H NGER t IL

    TOWA Il-

    1~1x 1 V . :W

    aR A S S a U T T

    HINGE

    FIGU~E6

    GlUE UHfR

    H A N GE R R Al l

    T O S AC K

    .8 ~

    1 -

    It

    WOOOSC I t EW

    SlOE

    CAP

    GU,E 4 fRONT , V IEW CRO SS S EC TIO N

    15

    1 0 1

    1 .0/.

    S ID E

    @

    .... k EEPER ST l tIP

    CROSS SECT ION

    II

    I

    DOualfWIDE

    MA G N eTIC

    CA TC ;H

    ,

    FIGU e s

    R()UND-OVE~

    R O UI R l AB U i

    F E N C E

    ,/ . ~YWooo

    l K

    ( cu r 'T o RT)

    D

    WOODSMlTH

    pieces 6 wide (00match the width of the

    side pieces). Then rip the shelf to a width

    of

    4 1 / 2 ,

    see Fig 2.

    These pieceshave 00

    be

    cut 00length

    so

    when they re joined to the cabinet sides

    the

    final

    width ofthe cabinet

    equals

    the

    width of the two doors. (On the cabinet I

    built tbis length turned. out to be I7Vs ,

    which allows for the twoMo -longtongues

    to fit in the dadoes;

    s e e

    Fig.

    2.)

    Cm l'ONG 'U ES . A ft e r cutting these three

    pieces00lengtb,l cut rabbets on each end

    to produce a tongue to.fit the .dadoes in

    theside pieces. (Thetongue on theshelfis

    trimmed beck 00fit the stopped dado.)

    GRoovESFq~ IJ.\CK.

    JS owhe grooves for

    the plywood ba c k c an be cut. Set up the

    router table to rout 1I -deep stopped

    groove. in the sides

    (D) \4

    f,om the b a C the plywood back.

    Then cut it

    to

    fit inthe grooves.

    SIIAPE

    TIfE

    SIDS

    PlRCflS. The last step is

    00cut the curved shape on the front edges

    of the side pieces. First maek.a pojnf a

    down from the cabinet bottom (E l,

    see

    Sid. View in Fig. 2.

    Then draw a gentle curve from tIIis

    point

    to

    a line J.I backfrom the front edg.

    This line extends until it intersects a

    2

    radius drawn at the bottom corner. Cut

    this profile on the side pieces and sand

    the edges smooth with a drum sander.

    ASSE .m LF.

    C A U N E T .

    Now

    finish

    s and all

    th.e interior surfaces of the pieces and

    glue and clamp the cabinet together.

    TUE CAP PrECF.. While the glue was dry.

    ing, Icut the cap piece (0) for the cabinet.

    This pieceis cut to length so

    it

    cverhangs

    .bothsides 0/.( (seeFig.

    4),

    and

    to

    width so

    it overhangs the front edge of the side

    pieces 1Yo ,

    se e

    Side View in Fig. 2.

    After this piece was cut- to Size 1

    rounded the frent

    edgeand

    both ends 00

    a

    modified bull- nose profile using a \4

    round-over bit on the router table, see

    Fig. 3. Then this cap is screwed 00 the

    cabinet top, sea Fig, 4

    MOUNT DOORS. lbmount the < 1 0 0 \ , cut

    hinge mortises in the cabinet sides and

    the door,.seeFig. 6.

    cut the mortises i~

    the door first. Then mounted the hinges

    and aligned them on the sides to mark

    the position for the other nap.) Also

    mount a magnetic catch, doo r knobs , and

    shelf standards (for two glass shelves

    inside the cabinet), see Fig. 5.

    ,IO UN TIN C S YS 1'EM .

    The

    1 8 1

    step is

    to

    make the mounting system. Thi.sconsists

    oftwo bars.that have one edge ripped toa

    30 angle, see Cross Section in Fig. 6.

    Mount one

    bar

    00 the cabinet and the

    other to the wall so the beveled edges

    interlock 00hold the cabinet to the wall.

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    e

    WOOOSMITH

    6

    - _ i

    COMItNAflON

    UoUt

    to

    MAl. eaoSSl HIS

    II

    CUAT

    fl THIUMetS

    fiGURE 2

    CUTHOM 4.

    S T O C t (

    f l V ..

    are all the same length and one end is

    rounded over on .1 1 of them, I found it

    easiest to layout all three cleats on a single

    5 wide

    board,

    see Fig 2. Cut the board to

    a

    finished length of 9V .

    and

    then

    round

    ov er one edge on one end w ith a

    round-

    over it

    MARKPILOT 1I0Lt~~.

    nefore cutting the

    cleats apart, mark the locationof the pilot

    holelines (or the

    sc rew s.

    F irst draw a tine

    than half the width ofa slat Yo ), measure

    in

    from each edge, and put marks.

    Split-

    tlng the dilference between the marks will

    locate the exact center. Then punch the

    centers with an awl.

    DRILLHOLES.The screws at each of the

    points

    ar e

    sunk below the surface of tbe

    slat and covered with woodplugs, see Fig.

    3 .

    To

    dr ill

    the holes ror the screws, first

    eounterbore

    a Wd i

    a.

    hole~. deep

    at

    each

    intersecting point. Then a l J i hole is

    drilled the rest of the w ay through to ac-

    cept the shank or

    n

    A l8

    fl athead

    screw.

    CLEA I\l.With the slnt.. completed, work

    can beginon Ihe c l ea ts 8 ). Since the cleats

    A place to hang your hat and eoat,... or

    your mug ... or your towel. The designof

    this shelf is e,ible enough that it tan

    easilybechanged to

    a

    hallway

    coat

    rack, or

    a

    kitchen mug rack, or

    a

    bathroom towel

    bar. And it s nl80designed to break down

    so

    it

    can mov e

    w ith

    yo u

    This proj t hilSfourmain parts: a shelf

    asse rn bly made with slats and cleats, tw o

    brackets, and a back. started with the

    shelf assembly.

    SHUf ASSEMBLY

    The shelf is madeup of fiveslats (A) beld

    together by three cleats B.

    SLATS.

    To

    make the slats A ,

    first

    rip

    five piece. of stock . thick) to a

    commonwidth of

    l~

    he length of the

    slats can vary depending on your needs.

    wanted tobeable to hang the shelfon two

    wall studs (16 on

    center). So I did a little

    figuring to determine

    what length the slats

    wouldhave to be to 10

    este the bracket. 32 on

    center and cameup with

    a length or

    8W .

    Aftercutting the slats

    to l ength ro und o ve r

    the

    t p

    edge. of each

    slat with a

    v

    round-over bit,

    see

    Fig.

    3 .

    )IARK POSITION OF HOLES.

    Once the

    edges are routed, three screwboles are

    drilled in each slat

    to

    attach the cleats.

    To

    mark the locationof these screwholes, line

    up the ends ofall fiveslats and draw tines

    acroos

    them with

    a

    square. Draw a line

    1~rom eacb end (this will position the

    bratkets 82 on center), and at the exact

    center of the length, see Fig. 3.

    CIlOSSLINS Next, draw crosslines

    centered on the width of each slat. The

    ensiest

    way to

    locate the center is with a

    combinationsquare, see Fig. I.

    Set the square for just smidgeon less

    fiGURE 1

    Three,..W~y

    Shelf

    FORUGSOATS~R~~~

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    17

    1

    n.Sf ASS-ABOUt

    HAlf. TOTAl DtPllt

    N Q T E

    IF INCtUDI~~

    owa

    liAR ,

    DRILLHOlEl~

    [ fE ,

    fiGU RE 8

    1

    ATlACI f

    KEYHOLE

    ANGE.

    W IT H T W O

    tI

    x 6 o

    W OO O S CREW S

    RGUaE

    IGURE

    \ I.

    '. \ j

    N OT E GRAtN O IA;ECTION

    . )

    ~ >;

    ~ ~ h : . .: :_ . . . . ;

    I ___R A C E f A 1 T E R t t

    O N TO 8L AN K

    WITH CAROBOARD TtMP lAlE

    \

    L O C A T IO N F O R

    1 O IA.

    rowe

    8A R

    .

    B R A O C E T

    e

    /f

    ;-

    I I

    BRACKETPAnE.l l l i

    t-- ~

    --2,, -

    - ~- - - - +- ~w- - - - - - - - - - - - ~ r r

    RGUR

    GlUED UflLANI

    FOR8AAcWS

    f4, r4 STO CK_o. ACTOA

    GLUE ANI) ~CJlW

    O U lS 10 E S LA T STO END (Il ATS ,

    C H K M fO R 5CWARE ------.5

    ~ : : = = = = ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ _ : N : a : T E :USucrS: I Y . . . W I D E

    WOODSM1TH

    back from the front edge (on the OP

    posite/ace from the rounded edge). Then

    draw ur more l ine s,2 apart.

    Now,the three cleats can be ripped I~ N

    ,'de. Th mark the location o C the pilot

    holes, draw crosslines centered on the

    idth of each cleat, using the same com

    ,bina ionsquare,method

    that-was

    used with

    th e -slats ,

    Finally, center punch each point

    with an awl and

    use.

    a Y J 2 hit

    to

    drill a

    * -deep pilot hole

    at

    each point.

    ASSE,mLY. With the holes drilled inboth

    the slats an d cleats, assembly can begin.

    Start byscrewing(#8 x

    IN

    flathead screws)

    and gluing the two ou ts id le ts 10 the

    first and last. slats, see Fig. 8. Make sure

    this partial assembly is

    square .

    Then

    screw ana glue the remaining slats and

    cleats together, checking the assembly

    each time

    a

    new sjat is added to make sure

    jts square ,

    The final step on the shelf assembly is to

    glue

    o N

    dia. plugs into the coun te rbo res ,

    Then c h i s e l

    1

    cut them off, and sand Ilush

    with the surface or the slat.

    BRACKETS

    The completed shelf assembly rests on two

    brackets C O ) . 3olhb ra ck ets a re cut ou~ofa

    single 9 x 15 blank made from ghied-up

    stock,.see Fig. 4.

    ..e f ter t,,~.blankis s q u a r e d up, layout n

    cardboard template as shown in Figure 4.

    Then use .the template to trace two brack

    eis onto Lhe_blank.After.cutting them out.

    file a n d sand the curves to finished shape.

    fr

    you'le inqlu~ing the towel bar in the

    design, drill.

    r -

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    WOODSM IT tI

    s

    D

    _ c.

    .,1

    1 8

    MOUNTING THE IUCKUS

    Alter the stopped rabbets are routed, the

    brackets are mounted to the shelf as

    sembly. I decided not to fasten the braek

    ets permanently since Iwanted to be able

    to Ulke the whole unit

    3par1.

    ror moving or

    storage. Rather,

    Ise d

    two short locating

    pins in the top of each bracket to locate and

    sta bil iz e

    the entire

    assembly.

    To

    mount the pins, drill two 0 / 6 holes, 14

    deep

    in

    the bottom ofthe second and fourth

    slats. The holes are cenlered on the width.

    of these slat. and located

    ' Y o

    rrom the

    inside edge of the two outside cleats, gee

    Fig, 9.

    USINGI)()W~L CEN'I'ERS. Aller drilling

    the holes inthe slata, use s dowel centers

    to mark the location of the

    matching'

    hol~s

    on the top edge of the brackets,

    Finally, glue two

    'Y o '

    dowels. 0 /0 1 long

    into the top of each bracket. Then round

    over the end of each dowel with andpnper

    to

    help them slide into the matching hole

    s,

    lACK

    The

    linaI

    piece to cut is the back 0. It's

    ripped to a width or

    5'

    (to match the

    stopped rabbet on the bracket).

    T h delermine the length of the back,

    tum the shelf a.ssembly upside down and

    hold the brackets straight up against the

    cleats.

    Then

    measure

    the distance be

    tween tbe brackets and add the depth or

    both stopped rabbets,

    se e

    Fig. 10. In my

    case this came to a total of : :M .

    Alter the back is cut

    to

    length, rabbet

    the ends to produce Y . th ick tongue s that

    6t in the stopped rabbets in the brackets.

    se e Fig. 11. Finally, round over the front

    edges. with

    a ~ round-ever

    bit.

    LOCATINGmE PEGS. lr you are making

    the coat or mug rack, possible layouta for

    the holes ar e shown in Fig.

    13.

    A1 tACH ING 1 1IE B AC K. Finally, the back

    is placed in the stopped rabbets in the

    brackets and hole.

    ar e

    drilled for

    < 1 8 x

    1

    o

    flathead

    wood

    screws, see Fig, 12.

    F IN ISH . T h

    finish the .helf,

    I

    sanded all

    the surfaces smoeth and then applied two

    coats of Hope'. Thng Oil.

    A

    I.. . .,,, ...... 3;A @

    CunlNG DIAGRAM

    ~.OOWll.,

    1 ~

    LONO;>

    ,r

    .

    AGUIlE 1

    at x 1. 31

    ''A.

    IIt.~.

    9

    1.

    ''''. Jl

    8;' 10

    II/.t Jl 5 320/.

    I d;o 32'1.

    y,' dia.Jl 3~

    ,,/.- dlo . 3)/.

    A 51.. (5)

    8 Clock(3)

    c t,tO(k.tt (2,

    D 1Io

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    19

    OODSMtTH

    board or pla sti c l am i na te s, c ar bide-tipped

    bits are the

    W Il Y

    to go.

    The cutt ing ed ge on

    ca rb id e-upped

    bi ts

    holds u p lon ger than high spe ed steel be -

    cause its an extremely hard material

    (close to th e hardness of diamonds) and is

    also los . susc eptible to the eff ects of over

    heating (lo sin g It's temper),

    How eve r,

    there are some disadvantages

    carbide. In addition

    to

    being h ard , c ar

    bi de is also bri ttle - britt le to the point

    th at it chips easily . C arb ide bits

    are also

    expensive.

    And

    sin ce w e 're ta lk ing about

    no smal l i nv es tmen t i n c a rb id e route r b its ,

    getting your m oney's w orth quickly be

    comes

    importanL W hat do you look for ?

    TlUCKNIlSS Of CARBltl. O ne o f t he first

    in dic atio ns o f q ua lity (o r

    lack

    of it) is tbe

    thickness of the carbide tip . T he thicker

    the carbide the more limes

    it

    can

    be

    s ha rp en ed b efo re it n ee d. to be replaced.

    That's the theory anyw ay , In re ality ,

    ca rbide bits are not resharpened th at

    enen .

    th e th lc kn ess of the carbid e is

    really mat te r of it's the thought that

    coun ts.

    Usua lly , thicker car bid e ,ndlcaoo$

    th e quality an d CI Il 'C the

    manufac tur e r

    put s

    into m ak in g h is bits ,

    CRtJ

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    WOODSMITH

    One note about these bits: the pilot.

    Round-over bits come with a pilot to guide

    the I>it. But there are two kinds of pilots.

    Most HHS bits (and Some carbide bits)

    c ome with fixed pilots that rotate at the

    same speedas the bit. Th ismeans the Rilot

    rubs against the workpiece at high

    s l '*d

    and burns the edge. The f ixed pilot also

    tends to collect resin from

    th e ,

    wood which

    compounds the burning problem.

    This is one of

    the prim any re aso ns

    for

    frustration with HSS bits. (Note: There's

    a

    replacement ball bearing pilot for the

    Sears HSS bits that's well worth buying.)

    On the other hand, most carbide bits come

    with ball bearing pilots that jl1ually elim

    inate burned edges.

    V o - ROUNDOVER BIT. CARt)IIl'ETIPPF.O.

    (Average cost: $24.9Zj. Of all the round

    over

    b i t s ,

    the

    Y 4

    size is the one that gets

    the most use in our shop. When working on

    contemporary pieces. it's used toround the

    edges. While on period furniture. it can be

    ROUNo.OVEft WITH SMAlLER

    PilOf lREATlS 8AotNG 81

    ROUND-OVER WITH

    ~ ; sKou lo ea

    Also ,

    when cutting . -wide dadoes or

    grooves, most of the time it's better to

    4

    make two passes with a

    y ,

    bit, sneaking I

    up on the ,,;dlh for a perfect

    fit rather

    than one pass with

    a

    0 / . 0 bit.

    STrtAlGJJT BIT ANI) V i STJL\JGJIT BIT.

    CAllII(OTIPPI). (Average cost: $l2.04

    and $14.58). If you' ..

    e

    working within a

    tight bu~get fo. the. shop, % and 0 / . bits

    can 00 added

    as

    needed. H o we v .. ~ T would

    probably not mess around with high speed

    steel first and replacing with carbide. I'd

    go right to carbide on these straight bits.

    This is especially true on the large'll

    straight bit. It takes out such a chunk ith

    each pass that it tends to heat up quickly.

    Carbide is needed to with stand this heat.

    Also thill size bit is often used for cutting

    grooves in plywood. And since plywood

    tends to destroy HSSbits, carbide is about

    the only way to go.

    ROUND-OVER 8ITS

    Also included in the primary set of bits is a

    selection of round-over bits. Before we go

    any further, there's a problem to address:

    what to call these bits.

    They generally go by four different

    nam es: ro und-o ve r; ro und ing ov e r, co rn e r

    round and quarter round. In addition, if a

    sma l le r pilot is used' so a second shou lde i-

    can be produced. th~y call be

    ca

    lied

    bead

    ing bits. t m

    II .

    R Q UN D O VE R B IT

    The other decision that bas

    to

    be made

    \.;jth y. ' straight 'bits is the length: the

    longer the bit, the greater the chance of its

    breaking. I've started using straight bits

    with

    a

    maximumorl ' of cutting edge. This

    decreases breakage, along with chatter

    an d vibration.

    W S~RAIGIIT BIll'. IUGII SPEED STEIIL.

    (Average cost: $2 .4 3) . This small straight

    bit has some obvious uses for detail work,

    like

    2 Outing

    recesses for

    m arqu etry

    inlays

    (see IVoodsm iti t No. 28).

    But it would seem that

    a '

    slJ:aight bit

    is far too sm all for general woodwo rk ing ,

    Bxactly the opposite is true. This. bit is

    almost mandatory in two

    CO rnman

    circumstances.

    A ~ bit is needed when you have to cut

    groove or dado ror V, hard wood ply

    wood. Although construction (fir) plywood

    is generally very close

    to

    Y . thick, almost

    all the

    hardwood

    plywood we've worked

    with is considerably Iess m an V thick. So,

    a

    Y o straight, bit is needed to cut

    greove s

    and dadoes in two passes to fit th e actual

    thickness of the plywood.

    The other primary use for a ~ straight

    bit is for ~utting the grooves fo r spline

    joints. We've used this tYPe o( joint on

    several projects tojoin the ends of

    mitered

    pieces to form

    fram e.

    (Refer to Wood-

    . itll No. 21.) The V. bit seems easier to

    control and p ro du ce s a b ette r g ro o ve than

    working with larger

    y.

    bit.

    This is one bit

    where

    it's difficult to

    decide between high speed steel or c ar

    bide.

    se it enough tojustifycarbide, but

    the HSS

    version

    is

    cheap

    enough (average

    e o s e: $ 2 .4 3) to m ake it disposable when it

    gets dull.

    II' STRAIGHT 81'r. CARBIOI>Tll'PEO.

    (Average cost: $12.93). After the y. and

    V. straight bits, it's a tough choice be

    tween the * and t . o sizes.

    V .

    probably

    use the Y.j bit. little more often.

    It's used a great deal on the router table

    to cut rabbets and grooves. Even when 1

    have to cut a VI -wide rabbet on the edge or

    a board, I use the V : t bit because pro

    duces a smoother cut with less chipping.

    STRAIGHTBIT

    DOUBLERUTE

    SIN Gl F l,U T E

    N

    edge and are designed for maximum chip

    clearance. 'I'hls means )'OU can feed the

    router faster through the workpiece but

    the cut

    will

    be fairly rough. Double flute

    bits give a smoother cut but there will be

    more resistance so you 'have to feed a

    Uttle slower.

    of router bit~ that's better than the others?

    Which ~est: Bosch,

    Porter-Cable,

    Freud, Black and

    D ecke r,

    or

    Sears?

    Th is is on. oHhefew times when talking

    about woodworking toolB that the choice

    between brands is almost impossible to

    make, It s kind of like choosing between

    Coke and Pepsi. There are some slight

    differences, but. when you're looking at

    brand name carbide- tipped touter bits, a

    bit is a bit,

    For the most part, I look at price. B...

    yond that its a matter of selection or

    variet.y. Everybody carries .straight, bit

    and round..uver bits, but each manufac

    turer has some specialty profiles or sizes

    Ehat the others might not carry.

    RECOMMENDED BITS

    At the beginning of thi~ article, was

    talking about the relative merits of buying

    a cheap set of high speed steel bits versus

    buying carbide bits right from the start.

    Because oHhecost involved, the biggest

    prob lem

    with buying carbide bits is know

    ing which ones Yo 're likely to use often

    enough to justify the price of carbide. I've

    been trapped both ways in the past.

    At first, bought only HSS bits. Then

    when I discovered the merits of carbide, [

    d ec id ed that w as-the o nly \\ay to go . B u t in

    some cases,

    J

    have to admit that

    J

    think I

    was t ed money on some spc.cialt.}' carbide

    bits tha t I \\'OU11d up u sing o nly a C C\\'im e s

    when a H SS bit would have done just fln e.

    Okay, which bits should be carbide

    and

    whic h o ne s lIS S? In fact, if you're go ing to

    buy carbide bits, which ones should be

    considered first?

    There are a few bits 1 would consider

    partof a primary set for building the kind

    of projects we show in lVood8nlit lt. But

    buying them as a complete sel.migh~ not be

    prac tic a l because of the high initial cost.

    Just to give some indication of the kind

    of investment we're talking about, we've

    listed the average cost of each bit, (This

    average cost' was obtained from five

    manufacturers: Black and Decker, Bosch,

    Freud, Por e r- Cable, and Sears

    P ro fess ional' .)

    STRAIGHT 81TS

    First .on the list is a collection of at least

    three straight bits, plus two more if you

    want

    a c o m plete .se t.

    Listed in the order of

    m o st. u se , th ey a re :

    \

    STRAIGHT OIT. CAR810ETI~PEO. 2

    FLuTE. (Average cost:

    $11.31).

    This is per

    haps the most basic bit and it gets con

    siderableuse in our shop. It can be used for

    cutting dadces, rabbets. grooves, and

    mott.ises for hinges.

    But for being such a basic bit, there are

    several controversies associated ,ith it.

    First, is best to get a y. straight bit with

    one flute or two?

    Single flute bits have only one cutting

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    21

    VOODSMITH

    them clean with 0000 steel wool.

    One note here: When eleaning bits with

    ball be lring pilots, remove the pilot before

    dipping the bit in the cleaner. The pnrtlcles

    of dissolved resin ean seep into the bearing

    and gum It up so badly it won't tum at

    all,

    SllARVE~ING.\Vhen itcomCl to the sub

    ject of .harpening rooter bits, I

    have

    a few

    thoughts that run contrary to the way r

    usually work with and maintain tools.

    sually try to learn how to sharpen the

    tools and keep them ingood working order.

    But when

    it.

    comes

    to

    ro uter bi ts. I'v e

    developed some second thoughts about

    sharJl(lning them in the shop.

    Carbide bits can be sharpened with a

    diamond hone ealled Eze-Lap (see

    Sources, p, 24). These bon. .. are like em

    ery boards except tbey're coated with

    diamond particles.

    I've sbarpened a few bits using the

    medium and fine-grit diamond hones. But

    to

    be honest. I'm not sure this i. the best

    way

    to

    approach sbarpening carbide bits.

    There are three basic problems: First,

    some bits (particularly small-diameter

    straight bits) don't have enough clearance

    in the flute

    to

    use the diamond hone.

    Second, on the bits that can be sharp

    ened. the surface is very small, which

    makes it difficult to control the hone to

    make sure )IOUre applying even

    P I CSSU1 'e

    so one area is not being rounded

    ov er,

    And third, it's very difficult to make

    sure the same amount of material Is being

    removed from each lIute (cutting edge).

    Note: Wben using a diamond hone, only

    work on tbe face (fiat) side of the carbide

    tip. The outer edge should not be honed

    because the

    clearance

    angle could very

    ea sil y

    get messed up (and ~be bit won't

    cut ,

    properly). Also, on bits ,,1thcurved edge

    s,

    it's almost impossible to keep the same

    shape on both flutes (eutting edges).

    So .

    only hone the race (flat) side.

    Besides the diamond hones, I've

    also

    tried using the Sean; router bit sharpening

    attaebment - it's excellent for raising

    your blood pressure, but takes enormous

    patience togeLit set up

    to

    actually sharpen

    router bits.

    There's 8 better way: When the bit

    starts getting dull, ake It to pro

    fes sional shop to have it sharpened. 'rho

    shop we go to charges about

    S O

    to sharpen

    carbide-tipped bit, and they have the

    equipment to do thejob right. (They use.

    400-grit diamond Wheel, and the bits come

    hack extremely sharp - in much better

    condition than I could produce by band.)

    CONCLUSIONS.

    Wben the

    router

    bits

    ar e

    sharp, they will do their job. In f ct, when

    I'm using a nice sharp bit, l've come to

    think oflhe bit as the tool and the outer as

    the accessory. And the nicest part of

    al l

    ibis

    is that it only takes a limited number ofbits

    ro do. 101or work - an investmenl that's

    well worth it.

    Another pr ofi le we Uko is what we call

    the thumb prolile. Here a

    Y

    round-over

    bit is used on the bottom half or the edge,

    combined with Q V I round-over bit on the

    top half. se e drawing.

    SPECIALTY BITS

    In addition

    to

    the straight bits and round

    over bits l isted above, there are four spe

    cialty bits worth considering as part of a

    plimary set.

    \+. I)OVlTAI~ BIT. CA'IIIIIH;.TIPPEI).

    (Average cost: S14.66.) Unless you're a

    fanatie ror maJring

    hand-cut

    dovetails, a

    dovetail bit is mighty handy for making

    dovetail drawers. Of course. you need lhe

    dovetail routing

    fixture

    to go along with iI,

    but the whole set-up is worth having. In

    addition to cutting drawer joints, this bit is

    also used

    to

    CUI. dovetail tongue and

    groove.

    t t O

    R;\BBETINC RIT, CARUIOETIPP80.

    (Average cost: $24.32). Although almost

    every project we build has a rabbet on it

    somewhere. we seldom use a rabbeting

    bit. One reason is the limitation ol the .

    wldlh of cut. Another problem Is with

    tearout on the bottom of the cut.

    See

    Talking Shop> page 22 for more on this.)

    But when you need

    to

    cut. rabbet on the

    inside edge of an assembled frame, par

    ticularly a curved rrame, rabbeting bit

    becomes indispensible.

    RO)IA.'t OCEE BIT. CARBIDE-TIPPED.

    (Average cost: $31.84). There are a few

    decorative bits that are worth the Invest-

    DOJl(lndingon the depth of cut. it can be

    used to produce a small cove cut. By in

    creaaing the depth or cut, it produces the

    double curve ogee profile. And by lowering

    it to I I 1 l I depth it adds a square shoulder to

    the ogee profile.

    ., GROOVE.HIGHS PEED S TEEl . (Aver

    age cost: ~.67 .The V groove is anotber

    decorative bit that I would add to the

    ~up. Although its primary use is to cut

    V-grooves, It can also be used (on a route

    table)

    to

    chamfer edges. Although we use

    tbis bit quite often, we've been able to get

    by with the high speed steel version.

    COSCLlJSIO~'S.Okay, whal about 810tting

    culten and core box bits? No two weed

    workers' lists ofrecommended router bits

    will ever be the same. But I've tried

    to

    inc lude all the b its we use on

    tl

    more or less

    ~eg lar

    basis for the projects sbown in

    lV oodsmi l l

    Suro there are times when we use a truly

    special bit (a panel raising bit. a slotting

    cutter, or a keyhole bit, for example) for

    specific projects. At that point it's a

    matter

    deciding the value of the bit for Ibat par

    ticular project.. (There's usually some way

    I can justify spending money on wood

    working to o ls.)

    But. no

    matter

    what style of bit or

    whether it's HSS or carbide-Upped. router

    bits only do their job

    tor

    two

    basle

    reasons:

    the speed at which they tum, and the fact

    they're sharp. The router provides the

    speed. But keeping them clean and

    sharp

    is

    another problem.

    CAR J AND SHAR PENING

    Just like saw blades, router bits

    eo llece

    pitch and resin as they're used. This

    u8uaUy causes burned edges nnd can im

    pede the cutting action or the bit.

    Fortunately, it doesn't lake much to

    clean router bits.

    r

    soak them inSean; Gum

    and Pitch Remover

    lor

    a while an d wipe

    r ~

    $OFJ'N'O OUUNOSO . . . J . . .

    / ~M~il:

    '-'-O-lUN V

    - o r

    ON TOP

    h ROUND-O'LE LBJI

    set ror a sUghtly deeJl(lr cut

    to

    include a

    , shoulder,

    see

    drawing.

    W ROIINI)OYERUIT. CAI BIOETIPPED.

    (Average cost: . 29.22). A I, round-over

    bit is also quite useful, but it is. without a

    doubt , q uite expensive. A t an average cost

    almost $30.

    this

    is one time when you

    might think twice about the merits or ear

    bide vs. high

    speed

    steel. I would

    still

    choose carbide.

    We'\'c come-to use the Y round-over bit

    ror

    two

    profiles that seem to find their way

    into n number of projcel$. The first. is a

    eo(l.cned bullnose profile. Rather than

    using a :Y bit on both edges to produce a

    fullbullnose (a half-round edge), a 14' bit is

    set to a sballow depth-of-cut to produce a

    soner curve and a very pleasant edge. se e

    drawing.

    [ HOFIL WITH

    so u

    AI,

    HOl lLDEa

    ROMAN OGEE

    r r

    ment. My first choice would be Roman

    ogee

    bit.

    The carbide version of these bits is very

    expensive, and you have to Rsk 0 \'-' often

    you're

    going

    to

    use the ogee profile todress

    up an edge. But in this case, the bit

    can

    be

    used in other ways, sec drawing.

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    WOODSMlTH

    ~

    o QUEST IONS

    Talking

    o

    AN O PEN

    FO RUM FO R C O MM ENTS

    AN

    ROUTER ROTATION

    Since the

    work piece

    is fed in the same

    direction as the

    ro ta tio n

    o f the bit, the bit

    It Woodsm ith

    N o.

    36,

    the. . .

    '008.''''

    article

    tends topull the workpiec e in the direction

    i"Sh"ll N otes

    on

    , 'OUtil lf1tabllels1

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    OODSMITli

    FEHa 8EHINDIlADf

    * -NCr I '.ON f

    l>

    kA OI

    be in Ille wrong position in our art. Actu

    ally, there wasn t mistake. We showed

    the fence behind the blade beeause we feel

    this is the best position.

    As we were preparing the article on

    cutting roves, we tested the set up with

    the fenee in fronl of the blade, beeause as

    many letters suggested, this is the way it s

    shown in most books.

    B ut when

    carne time

    to

    c ut the

    cove

    with the fence in this position, I had prob

    lems t.rying to feed the workpiece into the

    saw blade, while at the same time keeping

    it tight against the renee. This requires

    applying pressure in two dilTerent di

    rections: pushing the workpiece forward,

    and pulling it back to hold it tight against

    the fence, No matter how many times

    tried this method, it always rell very awk

    ward to me.

    The method I ve used ror years is ,,;th

    the fence positioned

    bthind

    tbe saw blade.

    Although, in theory, it might seem like the

    blade

    would have

    enough force

    to pul l the

    workpiece

    aw ay from the

    fence,

    in

    prae

    tiee, doesnt.

    In fact, it. nol any different

    than

    mak

    ing an ordinary rip cUI- except since Ille

    deptb of cut is only about V,, or so, even

    less hand pressure i8 needed to push the

    piece through the blade.

    And this, I feel, is the advantage

    to

    having the fence behind the blade: the

    w ork piece can be fed by applying pressure

    in

    a

    typical straight-forward direction -

    just like a rip cut,

    This direction feel. very comfortable

    to

    m e.

    But that s only how I feel.

    ll-y

    it both

    ways.

    If

    it feels better making the cut with

    the .

    fence in front of the blade, then that s

    the ....

    y to do it.

    Other Ieuers weve received suggest

    us ing

    two fences,

    one on each side of the

    w

    orkpiece

    to

    guide it as it . fed into the

    blade. Here, the problem is that the fences

    have

    to

    be perfcct.ly parallel

    to

    each other,

    and exactly the same distance apart as the

    ,,1dth of

    the

    workpiece,

    Considering how difficult it is

    to

    clamp

    one fence in position, trying to clamp a

    second

    fence can be more aggravation

    than it's worth.

    resin glues Is that they re formulated to

    have the quick grab necessary for

    this

    kind of glue tacking.

    Apply a light coal of glue to the mitered

    surfaces, and rub the two pieces against,

    each other once or twi ce

    to

    w o rk out an,) '

    excess glue, Al first the joint will slip

    around on tho glue, bUI then it w ill grab.

    When you feci it grab, make sure the

    miters

    are

    aligned. Then hold

    the

    joint

    together wtthhand

    pressure

    forGOseconds

    or so , kee ping even p1 CSS U 1 C on the jo int

    for the entire per io d.

    At Ihi. point, tho joint isnt strong

    enough to be tossed II1 0undthe shop. but it

    w ill hold long enough to make the cut for

    the spline, Th~jig also

    provldes

    support to

    the

    pieces

    so

    there s almost

    no press ure on

    the joint

    all

    the cut i made,

    Then wben the spline is glued into this

    groove, It wi l l hold the mitered pieces

    together, In elTeet, the spline makes the

    joint, not the glue on the mitered sur faces .

    CUTTING COVIS ON A TABLESAW

    I volut ruti~

    Woodsmith

    No.

    36

    and

    wou ld like to co nttlt Ott yo r iec hniqUA

    lor c.dii'19 COIIU

    m a

    lobl~

    t

    fee

    there , serioltS ,nstake. in

    tne

    art

    wltich

    ho... tI '. /once

    al.gled

    on

    the

    back

    >id e 01 li te blade, In e lHJry other

    boo

    rue

    seen, li te lece is 8110 ' ' ' in fro nt 01

    the

    b la de.

    T lte problem is tllt ,ulten li te ' l iOYkpiece

    i81m itioned i j'rontol lllej'81,cB,

    slto.tnt

    i

    yo u r a rt ic le , tJ lc 1 O tOt ;O) l the sa w

    b la de

    (6 l1 1U ,

    to Pill II,

    ,ool'kpiLce aICay

    fronttl tele c e.TiJi

    ,eo .

    llull IIandpres-

    su re ,. , th e

    ott l l l

    thiJlU

    prevt1 lt ing

    ike sa w

    blade fr om I II ro .c ing

    lite

    1tYlrk pi ,to , 'Brd

    fh . o pmulo r.

    B y . .. load ing

    lhe

    I.nu in lront 01

    the

    BOlO

    blade , l il e roIal ion 01 th e

    blade

    pllo8i1 a

    thellJOri

  • 7/24/2019 Woodsmith - 037

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    WOODSM ITH

    4

    contact Col. (ReL) ,Valter

    1' .

    Betley, 2687

    Wellesley Drive, Columbus,

    O J :

    4822 l

    )IIOLANO \\tOOI)\\o'ORKRS ASSOCIATION.

    This organization has entered its second

    .}Ieat

    with mont,hly meetings and a quar

    t'erly newsletter. Get more inform ation by

    contacting Alan T. David, president, Mid

    land Woodworkers Association, P.O. Box

    1221, .Midland,

    M1

    48640.

    Kru'lSAS CIT}' \VOOI)\VORKERS CUILD.

    David

    McLamb

    st oppe d

    by

    ou r

    offices

    to

    let us know that Kansas City woodworkers

    were get~ing together a new guild.

    f

    you

    are interested you can contaet David

    }I[(>Lamb,

    Presiden t,

    P.O. Box

    11284 ,

    Kansas Oity, MO 64U9.

    CINCINl'tATI WOOOWORIill

  • 7/24/2019 Woodsmith - 037

    25/28

    \VOODSMITli

    C irc le c utte r, a (iju sta ble 3 3:18 19

    Circles, r ou tin g' 2 0:1 3; 21:10 11

    OireuJar

    ~Iil'rQr (ta me 1 ~: 1 0 1 1

    T ab le to p'19:3 ; 3 0:12 '15

    \Val c lo ck 3 O :JO ll

    Claml)iilg

    'Ilock, dovetail 32'23

    Boards 3 J : 3 ; 3 . 5 : 3

    Co rn . ... . 9 4 :3 _

    Long

    pieces

    94 :2 4 ; 3 6 :3

    Stops 9: 12

    Tab le top 15:7 , 1 ,( :3

    Clamps

    Hand screws 5 :7 ; 28 :3

    Hol d-dow n 1;6

    Pip 15:3,7 ; 2 8:3 ; 3 2:1 5; 3 6:3

    Wedge,~:3

    Clock

    D es k

    10 :4 ; 33 :J8.19,21 1

    M ante l-24:8-l1: 30:23

    O c ta go na l w a ll 12: 8 9

    Regulator 36:1215 ,24

    Round IVal 30:10 } l

    S c ho olh ou se 2 1:4 7 : 8 0:2 3

    Clubs, l I' oodlVor l< ing ( i$.~ues 27 32,35,36:

    page 24)

    Co ff ee g ri nd er

    3 . ; : 1 6 1 - 7 2 - 1

    C offee la ble 1 9:1 4 17 .2.:20 22

    Co } n s orter

    C olum ns 16:9

    'li'a y 1 0:6

    Colonial

    D ry sink 18:12 J5

    W all hutc h 1 8;~ 6-1 9

    Compass 7:3; 26:3

    C o m po un d m it er s 3 6 : 2

    C o ok bo ok /r ec ip e s he lf 6 :4 5

    C o olin g ra ck 1:2

    Corner

    Joint, plywood 22 :3 ; 33 :20 22

    Template 29:3

    Cove cutting 12: 16 ; 2 0:2 3: 3 6:1 1

    Cw io cabinet 21 :12 -15 ; 26 :~ 17 ,24

    Cu t o ff

    jig

    radial arm sa w 22:3

    C utting board 1:1;

    3 2 :1 0 1 2 ,2 4 ; 2 0:24

    Dado.blade,. acjjustable 17:20;23:23; 3~:22

    Danish oil finishes 30:12 15

    Deck

    C ha ir 3 :6 7

    S quares 3 :10

    penti 26:12.1 9,2 2; 2 9:3 ; 3~ :3 : 36 :3

    Denis 15: 3

    Desk

    .l\ dju sta ble 3). :4 9

    Lap~:6

    Shaker-style 'V I' it ing J 2 :4'1

    D i amond s ha rp en in g stones 24:7

    D in ing table

    ()ireu la r with leaf

    30 :1621.24

    Contemporary oa k J5: 4-5

    Drop-leaf l1 :8 -JO

    P ic nic 2 7,:4 7

    Buck le, b elt 10 :6

    Buffet table', gate- leg

    20:14-1.7

    BUl le t c a tch 19:12,17

    Bullet's tray ta ble 14:10 . l l ,)6 : 16 ,3

    Gabine ,t

    Bal,ister'

    bo okcase

    29 :J6 2J ,2 4

    B ed side stand 18:4~7

    Caddy, two-drawer 31:12-15

    Caned panel ca binet and hutch

    22 :)8-22

    Qh~ir ' S ide 24 :~4 17

    Golonial dry s in k 1 8:1 2 15

    Colonial

    wal l h utc h 1 8:1 6 19

    Contem pora r)' hutch 18:4 7

    Curi o 2 1:1 2-15; 26 :12-17,24

    Eur opean cabinet and hu tch 22:1822

    Frame alld panel

    8:8-11

    Ice bo x 3 6:4 -10

    Modular

    S lo rag ~

    system

    2 l:1215

    Modular wall unit 33 :8 17

    Night

    stand 34:16 19

    Raised-panel door 8 :7

    S hop st orage 25:~ 7

    Spool

    26:4-6

    Tam bour 1 J7:6'9

    Tambou r TV 25:14 .19

    Thm bou r'I' .1 I 17 ,10 11

    Cabin ~t

    scrape, '

    14:12-1 3; 1 5:7

    Camp stool 3:7

    Can dle 'S tan d table 11 :6 1

    0im

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    WOODSM ITli

    Dining Tab le lilLl E dg e g lu in g 3 2:1 3-15; 35:23 Hexagon 12:1().U ,14; 16:8-9; 18:3

    ' re st le 1 :3 -5 ; 2 3: 12 -- 15

    ElllpIKl5:8; 1 4: 3; 1 6: 3; 1 9: 3; 2 4: 3

    n~s

    Disp lay CASe26 :4 - 6, 24 : 26 :12 -17

    E nd boards 9:7; 20:24 23:13;

    Butler's

    tray

    ta ble 1 4: 16 ; 1 6:3 ; 2 0: 23

    Display

    case, W U

    9:11

    End gm in Drop-leaf : ; 4 :8

    Door

    Box 15:13 G lass door 25:19

    Caned-panel 22: 18- 22

    G luing 24:23 Knife 13:8-9

    G ,- :

    Ii ralnc and

    pa nel eo nst ru ctio n

    8 :6 .. 8 -1 1 .;

    Octagona l Iram e c utting 21:17

    Making 19: 3

    16 :12-15; 18:,1-19; 24:1 4- 17,20 22: Open-splin e miter 36:22

    S an din g 9 : 12

    20 :,122;34:10-12 : 3 6:4 -10 Panel c utt in g 8 :1 2; 1 8:2 3: 2 2:1 1; 2 5: 18

    Us e 2 4: 23 ; 2 9: 16 -2 1; 3 0: 2

    G all., y c lo ck 3O:1() '1I

    Pinrouting

    28:2()'22

    Drawer

    G ate-leg buffet table 20:14- 17 Plastic lam inate 23:3

    Construction 17: 19 ; 1 8: 20 -2 2: 19: 18;

    Glass

    Radial-arm router 20:3

    22 :6 - 9: 31 :2 ( )' 22 ; 32:18-21; 34:13-15 Cutting 18:16: 17:20 Radial-arm saw cut off 22:3

    P lywood 22: 14 -1 5

    Door 13:8-9; 22:18.22; 24:9,: 25:19:

    Raised

    p an el 1 8:1 () .1 l; 2 0:3

    R ou ted fro nt 2 1:3

    26 :1-17;29:19-20 Resaw ing 6:9; 36:21

    D ril l b its 3 2: 23

    M OIInting 11:3 Ripping

    26 :

    13

    Dr il l gu ide , Porlaiigll 12:3 13 S.'ll{ling 13:3 Router-cut m ortise 26:3

    Drill

    press

    Glue, hot-melt 4 : 4 Rou tin ro un d b la nk a 2 5: 3

    A djustm ent w rench 32:3 Gluing 7:3: 9:3; 10:3,9; 15:7; 17:4-5; 18:3; Tam bour gluing 17:4-S: 25:18

    C ollet chuck 12;3: 26:23 19:23: 20:23: 21:9; 23:22; 24:23; 26:11: Taper 1:6: 5:4; 11:3

    G uide 1:6

    27 :23 ; 28 :9 ,24; 3 1: 3; 3 2; 10 , 1 3- 15 ,2 3

    Tenon 16: 18 ; 2 4: 18 -1 9; 2 8: 3

    Hole boring jig 22:3 Ed~ 32:13-15 Joinery

    M ortises 18:23 End grain 2 4:23

    Box

    2:4-S: 17:12-13 .19; 35 :12--20

    M ortising bits 26;20-21 Frame 26:11; 30:9

    Box,

    rabbeted 17:19

    Proulllol< table elevator 16:20 Inl , 28:9 Corner. p lywood 22:3: 33:20-22

    R ou te r c hu ck 12:3 ~liters 21:9; 30:9 Dovetail 19 :6-11: 22:4-9 : 2 3: 3:

    32:23

    T able support 19:3

    Stains

    33:23

    Dovetail key

    31:4-11

    Drilling

    Tamboura

    17;4 5

    Dovetail tongue

    and

    g ro ov e 9 :7 ; 2 0:2 2;

    Angle 4:10, 35:22 Goblela.

    turned

    23:4-7; 24:23 31:20-22

    Circles 33:18-19 G rinder tool

    rest

    20:7; 24:3 D rop-leaf 11:10: 14:7- 8

    Dowe l s 33:8: 34:3 G rinding

    wheels 2O:4~ 12;

    23:23 Finger 17:14-J5 : 3 5: 18 -2 0

    Sltop rnit/JM ar k V 29:3

    Half-blind dovetail 22:4-9; 3 4:4-9 Frame and panel 8:6,8-11; 18:10-11 ;

    Drop-lear

    H alC -la p 1 :4 ,7,8;

    2:11:

    15:8-11 ; 16:6-7; 24 :14 -17 ; 29 :22

    Hinge 1I :10: 14:8

    22 :18-22; 27:.1-13,22; 29:23 Half-blind

    dovetail

    22;4-9 ; 34 :4-9

    Joint 11 :10; 14:78

    H an m irror 21:16 Half-lap 27:22; 29;23

    Pembroke table 14:4-8

    Hand -cut d ov et ails 22:4-5;

    23:3

    Half-lap. mitered 2:11

    Table 11 :8-10

    Hand

    screws

    15:7; 23 :8 Han d -c ut d ov et ail 19:4-Jl: 22:4-5

    D rum sander 35:22

    H ead bo ard 3 4:10- 12 Haunched mortise an d te no n 18:8-9

  • 7/24/2019 Woodsmith - 037

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    \VOODSMITH

    Qu ar te r ro un d s to ps 36:20

    Q uilt rac k 3 2:4 .0

    Rabbet and

    groove

    joint (also called

    r ab beUda do ) 6 :8 : 10 :9; 18 :20 21

    Rabbeted

    Do ve tails 2 1:8

    Drawer mnt 18:2C}.21:22 :6-9

    F ram e, ro ute d

    26:22;

    30 :9

    nadial arm saw

    Cutoff jig 22 :3

    R ou ter Jig

    20:3

    Stand 3 2:3

    T ab le i lk oe rt 2 0 :3

    Teehnique. 16 :16 ; 1 6:1 6-1 8; 1 8:1 1,2 3;

    31:3

    R aised -p an el 2 :1 0; 8 :7 :

    18:1011,23: 20:3;

    23 :23

    R asp 2 6:2 8

    R ecip e b ox 1 0:8

    Regu lato r clock 36 : 12 15

    Rcsawing

    6:9;

    28:4 7 ; 8 5:3 1

    R iplbeve l 16 :8

    R ipping jig 2 5:13

    Ro ll-tep b read b ox 4 :6 -8

    R osa n in serts 2 2:

    24:3 : 27 :24 ; 28 :24 : 30 : 3

    Routed

    B ox si de s 1 3:1 2- 13 : 2 8:1 c} '11

    D o ve w1 8 2 2:6 -9 ; 3 2: 22

    Snack

    trny

    28: 16-18

    Router

    Auxiliary base 35:3

    B it. g lu in g d ov etail 3 1:2 4

    Bit, mOI~i8 ing 26 :20 21

    Bit, picture ram. 9: 3; 10 :3; 36 :24

    B it, ra is ed p an el

    23:23

    B uyer's guide 3 1:16-19

    Ca.se4:3

    C huck w ith drill press 12 :3

    D eb ris 2 4:2 3; 3 4: 3

    D i re ct io n 3 6 :2 0 -2 1

    Do ,'e ta il f ix t. ur es 2 2 :6 -9 ; 2 3 :3 ; 3 2 :2 2 ,2 4

    Guide, multi-purpose 17:20

    J ig , c en te re d grooves 30:22

    Jig, dentil m olding 2 9:3

    Jig, lap dovetail 2 2:6 9

    Jig, mortlse eutt inl126:S

    Jig, ra dln l arm

    Saw

    20 :3

    Jig, round blanks 2 5:S

    P in 2 8:2 0 2 2

    Plu ng e 2 8:2 3

    T ee hn iq ue s 2 0:1 3; 2 1:8 -1 1: 2 5:1 3; 2 6:2 2:

    28 :10 .11 ,16 -18 ,20 -22 ; 30 :4-11; 36 : 21

    Irammel

    attach men t 2 1:1 0: 3 0:9

    R ou ter tab le

    Cons tr uc ti on 2 0 :1 8- 19 ; 2 2 :1 6 -1 7; 3 1 :3

    Inserts

    30:3

    Pin routing a tta ch m en t 2 8:2 C }.2 2

    S ab re 8 IIw s etu p

    30:3

    S tand 2 2:16-17

    Table 8IIW cx ,enslon 24 :8

    Vacuum attachm ent 86 :3

    Rubbe r cem en t 3 5:2 2

    Rule

    joint

    U10 ; 14:7-8

    Rule, Sian dt 84: 8

    Safety

    15:3;

    3 1 :2 3 ; 3 4 :3 ,2 3 : 3 6 :2 3

    We-TPlaner,

    \Vag

    10 :10 ; 15 :7

    Sander

    Bell 1 5: 7: 3 3 :3 ; 3 5 :2 2

    ~ lo ld in gs 2 6 :2 2 : 3 6 :U

    M ortise

    Cutting j ig 1 6:1 8: 1 8:2 3; 2 6:9

    Drill

    press

    18:23

    Rout er -cu t, jig 26 :a

    Slot

    8:4;

    10:3: 13:10-11 : 2 6:8 9

    itered 16:1 6-18

    Thro ugh 15:12

    ' \vin 12 :12

    M ort ise bit s 2 6 :2 c }'21

    Mortise

    and

    tenon

    Frame

    and

    p an el 1 8:1 0-11 ; 26 :7 11

    Haunched

    8:3-5;

    13:1c}'11; 18:8-9

    Mo ld ed e dg e 2 4:1 2- 13

    itered16:16-18

    Open

    24:18-19

    'l\vin tenon 12:12

    W e dg ed 1 5:12

    M un tins 18 :8- 9

    M usic x 6 :6 -7; 28 :4 .7 ,211

    Nai ling fixture 15: 3

    Nestled tables 2 8:12 16

    N ig ht stand 3 4:16 -19

    Note board 18:24

    Oetagon

    12 :8 -9 : 1 6 :1 0 : 2 1 :,1 7

    Frame

    jig 2 1:1 7

    Oil f in is h es 30 :12 -15 : 3 2:7 9; 3 6: 28

    O pe n- sp lin e m it er 3 6: 22

    O rn am en ts , C hr is tm a s 6 :1 c} '1 2

    Outdoor

    F ur nit ur e 3 :8 12 ; 2 7:4 13

    Finis hes 27: 14 15

    Palm

    sanders 14 :12 ; 3 6:7

    P an el cutt ing 8:12 ; 18:23 ;

    22 :11 ;

    25: 13

    Par allel 'sp line

    9:9

    Pa tio c ha ir 27:8-11

    Pem broke table 14:4 8

    P en ci l a nd

    card

    holder 2 :12

    P ic nic ta ble 2 7:4 -7

    Picture

    frame

    router bit 9:3 ; 10 :3

    Picture

    and

    glass

    m ou ntin g 1 1:3

    Pin rou ting 28 :1C} .1116-18 ,20-22

    P ip e c lam ps 1 5:3 ,7 ; 2 8:3 ;

    36:3

    Plane

    A

  • 7/24/2019 Woodsmith - 037

    28/28

    W OOOSMIT1'1

    Te no n,

    ont

    Repair ing round 2 8 : 3

    Staggered shoulder 13: 10-11

    Stub

    2 9 :2 2 ; 3 1: 4- 9; 3 3 :2 0

    Thin 12 :12

    Thre-

    ade d inserts

    22 :11 ; 2 4: 3; 27 :2 4; 2 8:2 1;

    30:3

    Tie rack 1:2

    T iSS lle box 2 :5 ;

    19:24

    ' b ng ue an d g ro ov e jo in t

    9 :7 : 2 9 :2 2

    31:12 -15 .2 0 -22 ; 3 3 :2 0 -22

    Tho1 rest grinder 2 0 :7 : 2 4 ;3

    Tool s torage

    4:9.12

    by

    Biplane

    35:8-11,24

    Chest 29:4-9,24

    Race car 5:12

    hin5:1 11

    lhItk 35:4-7,24

    y

    R ou te d s na ck

    28:16-18

    Serving 19:

    19

    Snack

    28 :16-18

    ' testle

    Bench

    23:24

    Leg a ss emb ly ( de sk ) 31:4-9

    Tab le 1 :8 -5;

    2 8 : 1 2-15

    Ih~eI1 :2 4; 2 2:28

    'lU n g o il fin ish

    3 0 :1 2- 15 : 3 2 :7 -9 ,2 4; 3 6:2 8

    ' l \u-ning

    Bowl

    21:18-2 1; 25:24

    Can ister

    14:14 -16 ; 2 6:8 12 ; 27 :3 ; 30:28

    Fruit bow l 21: 18-2 1

    Goblets

    23:4 -7 ; 2 4:23

    Gouge s

    21:2 2; 2 4:2 8

    Leg s

    12 :S

    Popcorn bowl 26 :24

    Ser ape r

    21: 22 ;

    2 2 : 2 : 1

    Spindle

    26:3

    ' boIs

    21: 18 -2 2; 2 2:2 8; 2 4:2 3

    TV tray table .

    16:4-7: 17:20

    Vanit y mi rr o r 2>1:24

    V en ee r 1 4:1 0- 11 ; 3 3: 18 -19

    Veneer

    tape

    17 :8 ; 2 2 :11 -14;

    Vtse

    Dogs 28:3

    Ho ld ing J ig

    29:3

    Wag> Safe-T-Planer

    10 :1 0: 1 5: 7

    WalIlanlem. English 36:16-19,24

    '''all

    mirror 21: 16 ; 2 6: 1~ 19 ,2 4; 3 4: 20 -2 1

    Wall

    shelf 20:20-21

    Wal l un it

    33:8-17,24

    \v as te b as ke t 7: 5

    Wate r s to n es , J ap an es e

    2 4:~ ; 2 6:2 3; 3 1:23

    W eb

    frame

    construction 8 :8 11 : 22 :18 :

    2 9:4 -2 1: 31:4-9

    W ed ge clam ps ;;:3

    Wood

    Dimensions

    22:28

    Information 36:24

    Movement

    9 :7 ; 31:23

    Outdoor us e

    3 :11 ; 2 7:14-15

    Sample kits 34:23

    Spalted

    28:23

    Storage

    19 :2 3 : 3 0 :3

    W ooden h ing es 9 :5 -1 1

    W oo dworking clu bs (is su es

    27-33,35,86:

    pag e

    24)

    Spline,

    eo /

    Use

    23:22: 32:14-15

    S po ol di$p lay case 26: 4-6

    Spo on d is pla y e as e

    9: 11

    S pray M o un t 3 6 : 2 2 - 2 8

    Starret t rules

    3 .1:2 8

    St ave eons tr uc ti on 2 6 :8 -9 ,2 4 ; 2 7 :3 ; ; 10 :2 3

    Stereo

    cabinet,

    tambour

    17:6-9

    S tic ke r s tains 3 4:2 2

    Stones

    Diamond

    24:7

    J ap an es e w ate r

    24 :~ ; 26:23 ; 31:23

    Sharpening

    2 0 :4 -7 ,1 2- 13 ; 2 1: 28

    Stool

    Camp

    3: 7

    Child's 35:12-13

    Shop

    .1:11

    S topped mo ld in g < : U U l

    36:20-21

    StOPped r abbet s

    36:21

    Storage

    ~ Iodul ar s ys tem

    22: 12-15

    Modular 8 1 1 unit

    33:8-17

    Shop 15:14-15

    Table saw

    13:11-1 5

    Swea te r che st

    9:8-9

    Tab le

    But1 er'~

    tray 14:10-11,16

    Cunel le s tand

    11 :6 -7

    Coffee

    1:7 ; 19 :14 -17: 26:20-22

    Contempo ''a ry oak 16:4-.

    ining

    11:8 ; 15:4 ; 2 0:\4 ; 2 8:12 ; 30 :16

    Drop -lea f 11 :8 -10; 14 :4 -8

    Gate leg buf fet 20:14 .. 17

    Kitchell 15 :4 {

    Lellf 30:18-19

    Nes tled

    28 :12-1.

    Picn ic 27:4- 7

    Pembroke

    14:4-8

    Shaker-style side 11 :4-5

    Trestle 1: 3- 5; 2 3 : 12 -15

    V

    tray

    16:4-7

    Table saw

    Bevels

    23:3

    Blades , carbide- lipped 27:16-21,24 :

    28 :19,23

    Compound m it er s 36 :21

    C ov e c uttin g jig

    36:11

    Cu tt in g p la st ic l am i na te

    33:3

    D ad o b la de, adiustable 17:20

    Insert

    35:23

    Mi te r g aug e

    25:3

    Setup

    20-.3

    Tambour

    R oll-to p b rea d b ox

    4:6-8

    S te re o c ab in et

    17:6-9

    Teehniques 4:6-8: 17 :4 -1 1; 2 0 :3 : 2 6 :1 4-19

    V

    cabinet

    25:14-19

    Wall cabine ,

    17 :10-11

    Taper

    B. el

    16:10-11

    Cut.ting

    32: 10-12

    Ji g

    1:6 ; 5 :4 ; 11:3

    Thper< )d l egs 11 :11 ; 14:4-8: 28: 12-13

    non

    Cutting

    18 :10- 11 ; 26 :10- 11

    Ha unehed

    18 :8 -9

    Ji g 24: 18-19

    Mite red shou lder

    16 :16-17

    Sander,

    Olli

    Drum

    35:22

    Palm 33 :7 ; 3 4 :3 ,2 2

    Rockwtll

    S f d

    8 c

    1,1:12 :3 3 :7

    Sander sta nd , b elt

    10: 10

    Sanding

    Circles 11 :1 2

    D isk 1 3:3 ; 15 :3 : 3 1:3

    Dowels

    9:12

    Drum

    13: 3; 1 5: 3; 2 6 :: 1:

    32:3

    G lass 13 :3

    Tab le to p

    15:7

    Sandpaper

    33:~ ; 34 :3

    S a w dovetail 19:5

    S aw

    blade

    Band 10 .3

    D ad o b la de 34:22

    Table, carbide- tipped

    27:16-21.24:

    28:19,23

    Cleaning

    17 :3 : 21 :23

    Sehoolhou.se

    c lo ck 2 1:4 -7 : 3 0: 28

    Seonee,

    candle

    6 :5

    S cra p w oo d p ro je cts 3 :1 2; 10 :4 -8 : 14 :1 1-15

    Sc ra pe r, c ab in et

    14: 12 13 ; 1 6: 7

    Sc r ew s

    Brass

    18:3

    Sheet

    rock 18 :3 : 1 9:2 3

    Serving

    Cart

    28:8-11

    t ay 19 :19

    Shake r- style

    Peg ra c k 2 :8

    Step stand 19 :20 22

    Thble U :4 -9

    W riting des k

    12:4-7

    Sha per

    Bit 12:3,10- )1

    Guide s

    19:23

    Sha rpening

    A id s 2 :7; 8 1: 3; 3 3 :3

    Carbide-tip ped table

    W

    blades

    28:

    19

    ChiJsels

    20:8-11 : 26:23

    D iam ond sto ne s 2 4:7

    Ja pa ne se w ater stones 2 - 1 : > 1 - 6 ;2 6 : 2 8 :

    31:2 3

    Plane

    irons 28:18-19

    Scraper

    blade

    14:13

    Stone.

    20 :4 - 7. 12 -13 ; 21 :2 :1

    Tab le s aw b la de .

    28:19

    Shelf

    Aligning

    brackets 11:3