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Projects, Techniques, and Products
VOL. 10/NO. 58 APRIL/MAY 14
MORE PROJECTS
LESSONS & PRODUCTS
p.36Easy-to-Build
p
BONUS PROJECT:LAZY SUSAN p.
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Freuds Quadra-Cut4 Cutter Design
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FreudsExclusive4 CutterDesign
12
34
OtherRouter Bit2 CutterDesign
For A Smooth Sanded Finish...
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For more information visit: www.freudtools.com/Quadra-Cut Red router bits are a registered trademark of Freud America, Inc. (US) 1-800-472-7307
Beading Roman Ogee Classical Cove & BeadRound Over
Now Quadra-Cut 4 Cutter Design is Available in 1/4" Shanks
Ideal for Any Project thatRequires a Flawless Finish!
13 different 1/4" shankrouter bits available in the
most popular profiles.
SCAN WITH MOBILE DEVICE
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3 GREAT SHOWROOMS!
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Motor: 2 HP, 110V/2 20V, single-phase Precision-ground cast iron table
with wings measures: 27" x 40" Arbor: 58" Arbor speed: 3850 RPM Capacity: 318" @ 90, 2316" @ 45 Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L Quick-change riving knife Cast iron trunnions Approx. shipping weight: 404 lbs.
10" HYBRID TABLE SAW
G0715PONLY$79500
Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC Precision-ground cast
iron table size: 17" sq. Table tilt: 45 R, 10 L
Cutting capacity/throat: 1614" Max. cutting height: 1218" Blade size: 13112" L (18"1" W) Blade speeds: 1700 & 3500 FPM Quick-release blade tension lever Approx. shipping weight: 342 lbs.
INCLUDES DELUXE
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14" DELUXE BANDSAW
30THANNIVERSARY SPECIAL
EDITION 17" BANDSAW
177335
177335
Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V,single-phase, TEFC
Precision-ground castiron table size: 14" sq.
Table tilt: 45 R, 10 L Cutting capacity/throat: 1312" Max. cutting height: 6" Blade size: 9212"9312" L (18"34" W) Blade speeds: 1800 & 3100 FPM Approx. shipping weight: 247 lbs.
ULTIMATE 14" BANDSAW
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Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V,single-phase, TEFC
Precision-ground castiron table size: 14" sq.
Table tilt: 45 R, 15 L
Cutting capacity/throat: 13
1
2
" Max. cutting height: 6" Blade size: 9212"9312" L (18"34" W) Blade speeds: 1500 & 3200 FPM Deluxe heavy-duty stand Upper & lower ball bearing blade guides All ball bearing construction Includes 38 blade Approx. shipping weight: 196 lbs.
Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC
Precision-ground castiron table size: 17" sq.
Table tilt: 45 R, 10 L Cutting capacity/throat: 1614" Max. cutting height: 1218" Blade size: 13112" L (18"1" W) Blade speeds: 1700 & 3500 FPM Quick-release blade
tension lever Approx. shipping weight:
346 lbs.
INCLUDES DELUXE EXTRUDED
ALUMINUM FENCE, MITER GAUGE &12" BLADE
17" 2 HP HEAVY-DUTY BANDSAW
$99$99shipping
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10" LEFT-TILTINGTABLE SAWSwith Riving Knife & Cast Iron Router Table
Motor: 3 HP or 5 HP, 240V, single-phase Precision-ground cast iron table size with wings: 27" x 48" Arbor: 58"
Cutting capacity: 255
8" R, 8" L Max. depth of cut: 3" @ 90, 218" @ 45 Approx. shipping weight:
550 lbs.
$150$150shipping
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10" LEFT-TILTINGCONTRACTOR-STYLE TABLE SAWwith Riving Knife
Motor: 112HP, 110V/220V, single-phase Precision-ground cast iron table with wings Table size: 2514" x 40" Arbor: 58" Arbor speed: 4000 RPM Capacity: 318" @ 90, 214" @ 45
Rip capacity: 30" R, 12" L Encapsulated blade for
improved dust collection Camlock fence with micro-adjust Fence scales on left and right side of blade Approx. shipping weight: 208 lbs.
SALE$65000
175370
FREE 10"
CARBIDE-
TIPPED BLADE
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MADE IN TAIWAN
MADE IN TAIWAN
MADE IN TAIWAN
MADE IN TAIWAN
19" HEAVY-DUTY BANDSAWS
Motor: 3 HP, 220V,single-phase, TEFC
Precision-ground castiron table size: 2634" x 19"
Table tilt: 45 R, 5 L Cutting capacity/throat: 1814"
Max. cutting height: 12" Blade size: 143" L (18"114" W) Blade speeds: 1700 & 3500 FPM Approx. shipping weight: 460 lbs.
DELUXE RESAW FENCE
INCLUDED
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MADE IN TAIWAN
CAST
IRON
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SALE$87500
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OVER 15,000 PRODUCTS ONLINE!
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15" PLANERS
CHOOSE EITHER 3
KNIFE OR SPIRAL
CUTTERHEAD
MODEL
Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase
Precision-ground cast irontable size: 15" x 20"
Min. stock thickness: 316" Min. stock length: 8" Max. cutting depth: 18" Feed rate: 16 & 30 FPM Cutterhead speed:
4800 RPM Approx. shipping
weight: 660 lbs.
SALE $109500
SALE $169500
SALE $255000$179$179
shipping
lower48states
20" PLANER Motor: 5 HP, 240V, single-phase Maximum cutting width: 20" Maximum cutting height: 8" Minimum stock thickness: 316" Minimum stock length: 8" Maximum cutting depth: 18"
Feed rate: 16 FPM and 20 FPM Cutterhead diameter: 318" Cutterhead speed: 4800 RPM Feed rolls: solid serrated steel Table size: 20" x 2534" (20" x 5512" with extension) Overall dimensions: 5512"L x 3912"W x 4578"H Approximate shipping weight: 920 lbs.
SALE $165000
Motor: 5 HP, 220V, single-phase Jointer table size: 14" x 5912" Cutterhead dia.: 318" Cutterhead speed: 5034 RPM Max. jointer depth of cut: 18" Max. width of cut: 12"
Planer feed rate: 22 FPM Max. planer depth of cut: 18" Max. planer cutting height: 8" Planer table size: 1214" x 2318" Approx. shipping weight: 704 lbs.
12" JOINTER/PLANER COMBINATION MACHINES
CARBIDE
INSERT SPIRAL
CUTTERHEAD!
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OD
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Motor: 112HP, 110V/220V, single-phase,TEFC, 3450 RPM
Air suction capacity: 775 CFM Static pressure at rated CFM: 1.80" Intake port: 6" with included
5" optional port Impeller: 1312" Height: 6512" Built-in remote
control switch Approx. shipping
weight: 210 lbs.
Motor: 2HP, 240V, single-phase, 3450 RPM Motor amp draw: 9 Amps Air suction capacity: 1550 CFM Static pressure: 11" 6" inlet has removable "Y" fitting with two 4" openings Impeller: 1234" balanced cast aluminum Bag capacity: 5.7 cubic feet Standard bag filtration: 2.5 micron Portable base size: 2114" x 3312" Bag size (dia. x depth): 1912" x 33" Powder coated paint Height with bags inflated: 78" Approx. shipping weight: 122 lbs.
CYCLONE DUST COLLECTOR 2 HP DUST COLLECTOR with Aluminum Impeller
PLEATED FILTER IS
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Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase Precision-ground cast iron table Table size with extension: 27" x 7434" Arbor: 58" Arbor speed: 4300 RPM
Max. depth of cut: 318" @ 90, 2316" @ 45 Max. rip capacity: 50" R, 12" L Max. dado width: 1316" Approx. shipping weight: 557 lbs.
10" CABINET TABLE SAWwith Riving Knife & Extension Rails
FREE 10"CARBIDE-
TIPPED BLADE
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ODMAGAZIN
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Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase, TEFC Precision-ground cast iron
table size: 9" x 7212" Max. depth of cut: 18" Max. rabbeting depth: 12"
Cutterhead dia.: 3" Cutterhead speed: 4800 RPM Cuts per minute: 20,000 (G0656P),
21,400 (G0656PX) Approx. shipping weight: 500 lbs.
8" JOINTERS
CHOOSE EITHER
4 HSS KNIVES
OR SPIRAL
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MODEL
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4 KNIFE CUTTERHEAD
VARIABLE SPEED PLANER/
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Motor: 2 HP, 240V, single-phase, 12 Amps Precision-ground cast iron table and wings Maximum cutting width: 7" Maximum planing height: 712"
Maximum planing depth:1
8" Maximum moulding depth: 34" Feed rate: Variable Cutterhead type: Square Knife size: 718" x 112" x 14" HSS Cutterhead speed: 7000 RPM 4" dust port Rubberized steel feed rollers Powder-coated paint Approx. shipping weight: 324 lbs.
177335
247570
MADE IN TAIWAN
POUND FOR
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LAGUNATOOLS.COM
Go to your Woodcraft dealer today to see whyeveryone is raving about the 14|Twelve bandsaw
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Optional Wheel System & Blades
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$1,097
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PhotographingYour Projects
You dont have to be a professional
photographer to take great shots of
your work that you can share with the
world. All you need are some basic
equipment and a bit of know-how.
Drawer Slides:The Inside Story
See whats out there in the world of
mechanical drawer slides before designing
and building your next cabinet. Find help in
Clear OutdoorFinishes
Check our your choices, then
pick the best product to protect
your next project from Mother
Natures worst.
Well-StockedShop: Lubricants
Whether greasing the worm gear
tables of your shop machines to
the job in this diverse roundup.
Frame-and-Panel Finesse
Discover the secrets for
when making frame-and-panel
29
56
46
70
51
Contents: Tools & Techniques
6 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Departments
Mailbox
Hot New Tools
JessEm Clear-CutPrecision StockGuide
WoodRiver Silicone
Wax Polish
Tips & Tricks
WoodSense: Ipe
08
14
12
18
74
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Shop-Smart
Getting organized in the shop requires
having a lot of specialty storage on hand
for everything that makes a shop work,
from tools to accessories. Once your shop
and time savings increase tenfold. In
mobile assembly cart on page 62. It offers
dedicated storage for glues, assembly
screws, dowels, biscuits, nailers, a drill,and a driver. Just roll it up to your
assembly table, and youre ready
to fasten project parts together.
This project, however, is just
the tip of the iceberg in what
we have to offer in the way of
workshop storage. Working
with Schiffer Publishing,
LTD, we gathered our very
best shop storage projects
from past issues of Woodcraft
Magazineand placed them in our
most recent book in the Home
Woodworker Series. Titled Home
Workshop Storage, this comprehensive volume includes 21
projects for storing anything from your favorite hand tools
and portable power tools to clamps, lumber, sheet goods, and a
variety of power tool accessories. There are even step-by-step
plans to make base and wall shop cabinets in three styles.
Home Workshop Storageis a companion to our previous book
introduced in 2013, Home Workshop Setup: the Complete Guide.
It is here where we provide woodworkers with a shop planner
So, if you love your shop and you want to love it more with
various improvements and dedicated shop storage, nows your
chance. Order either of the two books by visiting the Woodcraft store
nearest you or www.woodcraft.com , or by calling (800) 535-4482.
8 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Cutting InApril/May 2014
Jim Harrold
Paul Anthony
Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
Art Director Chad McClung Shayne Hiles
Sharon Hambrick
John Blackford, Ken Bur ton, Marlen Kemmet,
Tom Kreger, Bill Sands, Pete Stephano
Gary Lombard
Vic Lombard
Kim McLaughlin
Kiah Harpool
Circulation Specialists, Inc.
U.S. and Canada, $19.97 for one year
Single copy, $5.99
(800) 542-9125
4420 Emerson Avenue, Suite A
P.O. Box 7020
Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020
(800) 542-9125 Fax: (304) 420-9840
Email:
Online:
(ISSN:1553.2461, USPS 024-953)
is published in January, March, May, July, September
and November and printed in the United States by
Woodcraft Supply, LLC, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A,
Parkersburg, WV 26104. Tel: (304) 485-2647. Periodical
Postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, and at additional
mailing offices. Copyright 2014 by Woodcraft
Supply, LLC. All rights reserved. POSTMASTER: Send
address changes to , P.O. Box
7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. Canada Post:
Publications Mail Agreement #40612608
Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes,
P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2
Printed in the USA
Working wood can be dangerous.
your machine owners manuals, using appropriate
guards and safety devices, and maintaining all your
tools properly. Use adequate sight and hearing
may be removed from tools shown in photographs
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RETAIL FRANCHISE OPPORTUNITIES
For more information call (855) 923-7326,visit www.woodcraftfranchise.com,
or email: [email protected]
When woodworking is your passion, and
owning your own business is your goal,
Woodcraft can help you take your skill
and expertise to the retail level.
When I think about owning myown business
I think of Woodcraft
Carve a niche for yourself in woodworking with aWoodcraft retail store. It is difficult to overstate the
importance of a brand name with a reputation for
quality. The Woodcraft name is a tremendous asset.
If you are a woodworker, you already know what
we mean.
Now, after more than 80 years, the Woodcraft name
is even more recognizable than at any other time in
our history. Are you seriously looking for a franchise
opportunity? Are you passionate about woodwork-
ing? Would you like to consider opening a store in
your area?
Contact us today to find out how to
open the door to your Woodcraft
Retail Store!
We're building a business that transcends generations.
Having a Woodcraft franchise has helped us grow as a
family while preparing our next generation for success.
David & Aaron SappNashville, TN Franchise Owners
Openthedoor
toyourown
business!
F14WD05P
Woodcraft Franchise, LLC1177 Rosemar Road, P.O. Box 245Parkersburg, WV 26102-0245
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10 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Robert Sorby,
Athol Road, Sheffield S8 0PA, England.
Tel: 44+ 114 225 0700
Fax: 44+ 114 225 0710
E-mail: [email protected]
Web site: www.robert-sorby.co.uk
P r o u d l y m a d e i n S h e f f i e l d , E n g l a n d
The Robert Sorby
TurnMaster is the first tool in
the world to combine three
cutting edge technologies in
one flexible tool.
Cutters are available in
tungsten carbide, titanium
nitride (TiN) and high speed
steel (HSS) providing
unsurpassed range to
woodturners at every level.
a cut above
Robert Sorby
Benefits: All cutters interchangeable with one tool
Unique* indexable cutting head for three scraping options
Interchangeable cutter head no need to buy whole new tool
Flat underside for stability
High tensile torx screw / key for quick cutter release
*Patent pending
CARBIDE: TITANIUM: HSS
MYCHOICEOF
SHARPENER.
With Tormek, I can nally teach
students to efciently sharpen
their tools. Anyone can learn
how to achieve a superb
cutting edge in 10 seconds!
Fantastic system.
Professional WoodturnerCounty Carlow, Ireland
See the video from Glenns workshop atwww.tormek.com!
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 11
913-377-2444
www.BigGatorTools.com
V-DrillGuides
LifetimeWarranty
Drill Straight - Every Time!
Can be used on at surfaces,round parts and corners.
This commercial-quality blade is idealfor rip and cross cutting two-sidedplywood, whether finished or un-finished. It is also perfect for crosscutting solid woods. In fact, theresno comparable blade on the markettoday.
The Ply Veneer Worker (PVW) uses
the same high-precision technologythats behind our popular WoodworkerII blade. Designed for cutting woodproducts only
The PVWs list price is $23 lessthan our Duraline Hi-A/T.
It delivers flawless cuts withoutsplintering or fuzz. You never haveto worry about chip-outs on top orbottom surfaces. No scoring blade isneeded.
It lasts up to 300% longer betweensharpenings. The PVW is made ofsuper-strong C-4 micrograin carbidefor extra durability. Like other For-rest blades, it ishand-straightenedtoensure perfect flatness and has a siderunout of +/- .001.
The PVW is superbly engineered. It
features a 10 hook, 70 teeth, and ahigh alternate top bevel grind. Youcan count on this exceptional productto give you vibration-free performanceand long life.
All Forrest blades, including the newPVW, aremade in the U.S.A.and havea 30-day, money-back guarantee. Soorder today from your Forrest dealer orretailer, by going on-line, or by callingus directly.
www.ForrestBlades.com1-800-733-7111(In NJ, call 973-473-5236) 2014 Forrest Manufacturing Code WC
NEW FROM FORREST!
Ply Veneer Worker BladeDesigned Specifically for Cutting Plywood and Plywood Veneers
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12 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Mailbox
Regarding the Light Rightstory in the Feb/March 2014issue, I would like to add thathalogen bulbs should not betouched by bare human hands.The oil on your skin will leavea residue on the bulb causing
a hot spot. Over time, this willreduce the bulbs lifespan.The solution: when changinga halogen bulb, wear gloves,or grab it with a clean cloth.Andy Barton,Camarillo, California
Back in the Oct/Nov 2008
issue, you featured apendulum baby cradle. Atthe time my daughter wasstill in college, but I thoughtthe cradle was so nice Ishould cut the plan out andsave it for someday. Well,that someday has come,and I wanted to share with It was a wonderful design
that resulted in a familyheirloom destined tooutlive me for generations.Thank you for giving methe plan for that legacy.Joe Snyder,Louisa, Virginia
Long liveyour lightbulbs
A real keeper
Go against thegrain and findyour groove
Let your passion for wood lead you into
a new business with Furniture Medic, the
worlds largest furniture and wood repair
and restoration franchise.
Extensive training Low initial investment Financing available
800-230-2360furnituremedicfranchise.com
Own your own business
2013 Furniture Medic Limited Partnership. All rights reserved.
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 13
Ive always used free wood I
picked up from some place for
projects. Recently, I bought twospecial pieces of wood that were
coated with wax. How do I deal
with removing the wax? I saw
one suggestion about sanding it
off. Simple enough, but do you
have any other suggestions?
Ken Earle, San Carlos, California
Ken, freshly-sawn exotic
hardwoodssuch as ebony and
rosewoodtypically have moisturelevels that range anywhere from
14% to 35% (compared to the
6% to 8% moisture content of
kiln-dried hardwood). Wax is a
simple means of slowing down
the drying process after rough
milling and during shipping to
prevent splitting and checking.
Wax can affect glues and
skin deep. If youre dealing with a
turning blank, the most effective
way to remove the wax is to shave
it off at the lathe. If youre using
the board for some other type of
project, simply saw or plane off
the coating. (To save wood, youcan scrape off the wax with a card
scraper or hand plane it to expose
bare wood.) Some woodworkers
also use acetone to wipe away
any remaining wax residue.
Jim Harrold, editor-in-chief
Chime inHave comments about the
readers?
Magazine, PO Box 7020,
Parkersburg, WV 26102.
Errata errors
visit
Wax
From the editors of
Woodcraft Magazine
96pages
Everything you need to
develop an organized and
highly efficient workshop.
Call today 1-800-225-1153or go online at
www.woodcraft.com
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14 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014 JessEm photo: Manufacturer; DrillBlock photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert
Hot New Tools
By necessity, most woodworkers own an
arsenal of guards and featherboards for their
router tables. The reason for such sizeable
some compromise. Better control often means
JessEms latest accessory combines safety
and control while providing a clear view of your
14" T-slot, the one-way feed rollers mount at a
5 inward angle so that they hold stock down
against the table and pull it toward the fence as
its fed past the bit. The rollers have a 234" total
916" below the center of the horizontal T-slot
in your fence. Considering its ability to assist
with everything from grooves, to dadoes, toraised panels, once you attach the jig to your
fence, you might wind up keeping it there.
#158903,
Tester: Peter Collins
router tables
JessEm Clear-Cut
Precision Stock Guide
For those spring and summer
projects that are too big to schlep
to the drill press, heres a jig that
can help you drill perpendicular
drill holes precisely where
in the palm of your hand. This
(ranging in size from 18to 12")
housed within an ergonomic
base thats designed to grip onto
stock. To use, simply line up the
centering lines on the sides of
the guide with the crosshairs on
your stock, hold the jig, and drill .
#158941,
Tester: Peter Collins
bulls-eye
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16 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Hot New Tools
For those who burn through
rolls of kraft paper when gluing
reusable solution. Flexible and
564
pads and installed
Tester: Kent Harpool
WoodRiver Silicone Bench Mats
HOLEY GALAHAD
A Window To Your Work
Round Profile / Flat Profile
Coarse, Medium, Fine Grits
Durable Tungsten Carbide
Vision Is EverythingLANCELOT
Cuts In Any Direction
22 Tooth / 14 Tooth
Three Center Hole Sizes
Tandem Disc Combos
Fits 41/2Angle Grinders
800-942-1300 katools.com
JeffroUitto.com
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April/May 2014 17
Those who use wax on their hand
tools and machine tables appreciate
the way that the coating reduces
friction but accept the fact that
wax doesnt do much to stave off
rust. ProtecTool offers the same
slip but also contains corrosion
inhibitors that provide an extra
chemical barrier against corrosion.
Due to its creamy consistency,the product goes on like other
waxes; simply wipe it on, wait,
then buff. According to the manufacturer, the
wax hardens upon exposure to air to create
by-side tests, tools treated with ProtecTool
better than those treated with regular wax.
#158701,Tester: Kent Harpool
Bora ProtecTool, 100ml
High Performance
American Quality
Simple to Use
Turning Tools | Hollowing Tools | Chucks | Accessories
S L TSnap- Lock
TM
THEWOODTURNING SYSTEM
The worlds only chuck
with quick change jawsand Zoom Ring
Toll-Free: (866) 963-0294 | See the new video atEasyWoodTools.com
Exclusive Features:Now FREE with every Easy Chuck purchase
EASY CHUCKING SCREWThe worlds first double-ended chucking screw
Easy Chucking Screw Patent Pending
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18 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Tips & Tricks
TOPTIP
Share a Slick Tip.Win Cash or a Prize!Heres your chance to help someone become a
Top Tipwill receive a
. Runners-up will receive
for an non-illustrated
one. Winning entries become the property of
. Send your original ideas to:
Tips & Tricks,
oremail
.
Important:Please include
your phone number,
as an editor will need
to call you if your
Locating light precisely where its needed
at the bench makes doing detail work
much easier, whether its laying out joints,
cutting dovetails, or simply reading wood
grain. This sliding bracket lets me position
my articulating-arm lamp anywhere
along the length of my workbench. The
bracket was designed to grip the edge
of a recessed tool tray, but it can be
the vertical block a tad longer than the
height of your benchs back rail to ensure
and bottom blocks on the tablesaw, initially
work with stock thats oversized in length
for safety. Alternatively, create the lipped
areas by gluing on separate strips of wood.
Dont glue the bottom block as youll want to
remove the bracket when necessary, such as
when laying large panels on your benchtop.
Andy Rae, Asheville, North Carolina
Lip catches top sideof bench tray.
Lip catchesunderside ofbench tray.
Trim-head screw
Drill hofor lamstem.
14-20 knob
14-20 hangerbolt
34"
212"
6"
34"
12"
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 19
Picture this jigHave you ever pulled out a jig that you havent
used in a while and realized that you dont entirely
remember how to set it up or use it? Me, too. To
prevent that, Ive added a new tool to my shopan
inexpensive digital camera. After setting up a
jig and any attendant tools, I take a few
relevant snapshots, print them out, and
tape them to the jig and/or stash the images
in a jig setup folder for future reference.
This approach works well as long as I can
remember where I keep the camera.
Robert Lopez, Los Angeles, California
Shop-made Over the years, I have replaced many of the thin
stock blades in my vintage hand planes withmodern aftermarket blades. Looking for a way to
put an old blade to good use, I combined it with a
handy tool for various trimming chores and for
removing dried glue at intersecting project parts.
To make a plane like this, begin with a block of
wood about 1" thick, exactly as wide as the blade,
and about 12" shorter. Bevel the front half of the
block down to about 38" for a good grip, and ease
the edges for comfort. Shape a bit of hardwood to
plug in place to the underside of the body, and then
epoxying a 12
the surface of the block to hold the blade in place.
Alejandro Balbis, Longueuil, Quebec
Plane body
12 magnet
Glue blade slot
Stock block
The American Woodshopwith Scott & Suzy Phillips
Season 21 -American OriginalsFreeform Designs& Hand Skill Solutions
Presented by - WBGUPublic TelevisionWBGU Public Television presents13 PBS TV shows of The AmericanWoodshop American Originals.
Season 21 shares woodworking tipsfor every skill level. Techniques include:turning, joinery, tool tune-ups, making jigs,bench building, and furnituremaking!Get your tools out!
wbgu.org/americanwoodshop
The American WoodshopIs Sponsored By:Woodcraft Supply, Kreg Tool Company,
Easy Wood Tools & Gorilla Glue 2014 Sylvan Tool Works, Inc. All Rights Reserved
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20 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Tips & Tricks
Panel-raising guardSuccess at raising panels on the router
The two router table accessories that
throughout the cuts, ensuring a smooth
38
12
The
38
Paul Anthony, senior editor
Featherboard
guard extends outover the bit in frontof the featherboard.
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 21
Clamp, sand and nishin minutesNo activator requiredMinimizes clamping timeDeveloped for joinery
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22 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
For a recent project, I needed to
drill accurately centered holes
into some wooden balls I had
purchased, so I came up with
this jig to hold them securely on
the drill press. To make the jig,
board from a short piece of stock
whose thickness approaches the
radius of the ball to be drilled.
Cut a 14" slot in it, and screw it to
a baseboard thats long enough
to span your drill press table.
Then drill a hole through the
upper board using a holesaw.
(I used a Vermont American
#18401 adjustable-diameter
holesaw, which allows slight
upsizing to accommodate the
typical variance of wooden balls
from their nominal diameters.)
drill press with a standard twist
bit whose diameter matches
that of your holesaws pilot bit.
Lower the bit into the pilot hole
in the baseboard to center the
jig under the drill chuck. After
clamping the baseboard to the
table in this position, switch out
the bit with the one youll use
to drill the ball, and pinch a ball
in the jig by clamping across
the slot. Now youre ready to
drill a perfectly centered hole.
John Hutchinson, Delaware, Ohio
Ball-drilling jig
Baseboard
Tips &
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 23
The perfect way to cut
logs the traditional way.
The Lynx saw range
Available at Woodcraft
Tel: +44 114 2725387
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24 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
This frame, with its lapjoint construction, features
several signature elements
from the Arts & Crafts era.
They include the overhanging
beveled cap, tapered stiles,
decorative square buttons,
and quartersawn white oak.
Sized for a 57"photo or pieceof art, you can build it to stand
on its own or hang on a wall.
Start with theframe members1 Cut the stiles (A), bottomrail (B), and top rail (C) to the
sizes listed in the Cut List.
2 Lay out the 14"-deep rabbetsand dadoes on the back face
of each stile (A), using the
dimensions in Figure 1. Install
a dado set in your tablesaw,
along with a miter gauge,
auxiliary fence, and stop. Raise
the dado set 14", and make a test
cut in 34"-thick scrap to verify
the depth. Now, cut rabbets
and dadoes in the stiles, setting
the stop as needed. Cut the
mating 14"-deep rabbets on
the front faces of the top and
lap joints. The back surfaces
of the mating parts should be
3 Glue and clamp therails (B, C) to the stiles (A),
checking for square. Wipe off
any glue squeeze-out with
a clean, moistened rag.
Arts & CraftsPicture FrameKeep a loved one close at handwith this wall hanging or stand.
By Marlen Kemmet
Overall dimensions: 838"w 178"d 1038"h
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6 Referring to Figure 1, markthe tapered outside edges of the
frame, and cut the taper using
a bandsaw. Cut just outside
the line, and then sand to the
line to remove saw marks.
Add the cap, support,
1 At the tablesaw, cut a 34"-thickoak workpiece to 6 958"
for the cap (D). Install a
zero-clearance insert, and
prepare it for a 30 cut. With the
blade raised and angled at 30
from vertical, slide the fence
over 14" from it. Make Cut 1
and Cut 2,shown in Figure 2,
safety. Tilt the blade to vertical,
adjust the fence 17
8" from it, andrip the cap to width (Cut 3).
2 Cut a 18"-thick hardboard
the rabbeted opening.
3 Drill four 116"pilot holes in theback of the frame for mounting
the turn buttons around the
rabbeted opening. (I located
the holes 38" from the rabbet.)
4 Sand the frame (A/B/C)
and cap (D) through 220 grit.Center, glue, and clamp the cap
to the top edge of the frame
5 To use the frame for tabletopdisplay, cut the support (E). Start
with a 126 612" workpiece for
safety. Install a zero-clearance
insert, and angle your tablesaw
blade 30 from vertical. Adjust
26 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Use a 14
B
Figure 2:
(Begin w/34 6 958
Cut 1:Chamferedge at 30.
Cut 2:Bevel-rip
14"
Cut 2:Chamfer edge at 30.
Cut 3:Rip cap to width.
Cut 1:Chamferends at 30. Cut 3:Miter-
Cap
18"
(Begin w/1 6 61
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the fence 18" from the blade.
With the workpiece on edge and
pushblock to chamfer the
support (Cut 1in Figure 2).
Angle the blade 20 from vertical.
Move the fence 214" from it, and,
table, bevel-rip the supports
opposite edge (Cut 2). (See
Side Viewin
Figure 1.) Miter-cut the ends
of the support at 10 (Cut 3).
6 Carefully locate and gluethe support (E) in place so the
frame leans down at 20. (I used
masking tape to hold the piece in
place.) For a wall-mounted frame,
fasten in place a sawtooth picture
Center it on the top rail (C).
7 Finish-sand and stain theframe. (I used General Finishes
Black Cherry thinned 30% with
water. I then applied three coats
of Watco Lacquer, Satin, Spray.)
8 To create the buttons (G), ripa strip of walnut to 14148".
ends in the square mortises.
Lightly bevel-sand four 45
chamfers on the ends of the
strip, as shown in Photo C.
9 Crosscut a 12"-long buttonfrom each end of the strip, and
repeat for all six buttons. (I used
the Olson 35-231 saw and mini-
miter box set, but any miter box
up a stop for consistent button
lengths.) Glue the buttons in
place. The buttons are sized
to stand proud of the frame
surface 18". Add the turn buttons
to the back of the frame. Insert
the glass, picture, and back.
April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 27
Picture Frame Cut ListPart Thickness Width Length Qty. Matl
A* 3
4" 2" 95
8" 2 QWOB* 12" 112" 834" 1 QWO
C Top rail 12" 114" 838" 1 QWO
D* Cap 34" 178" 958" 1 QWO
E* Support 12" 218" 6" 1 QWO
F Back 18" 512" 712" 1 HBD
G* 14" 14" 12" 6 W
Materials:QWO = Quartersawn White Oak, HDB = Hardboard, W = Walnut
Hardware/Supplies:(1) Sawtooth picture frame hanger, picture frame glass.
Convenience-PLUS
BUYING GUIDE1. 12" SH, 12" CL
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woodcraft.com
C
About Our Author
A founding member of the
San Diego Woodworking
career in woodworking and
He likes building furniture and
home accents in the Greene
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For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153. 14WD05P3
For Information On Woodcraft Retail Franchise Opportunities, Visit woodcraftfranchise.com
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 29
Part of the satisfaction ofworking wood is showing off
your projects. In this Internet
age of social media, that often
means photographing your work
and posting it on Facebook,
Google Plus, Flickr, or your own
photo blog. If youre an aspiring
professional, good photos can
also serve as exhibit entries or
strong portfolio material to help
sell your work. So if you count
a camera among your tools,
why not put it to its best use?
If youve felt that your photos
dont measure up to the quality
of your woodworking, or if you
have even avoided the attempt
entirely, take heart. Good
photos result from suitable
lighting and composition
more than costly gear.
Armed with your camera,
some relatively inexpensive
lighting equipment, and the
here, you can produce photos
that do your projects proud.
The investment? Well, aside from
your camera, a basic selection
of decent gear can be aquired
respectable shop machine. You
can get started for less, as well
discuss, but you have to invest
a few bucks to get good shots.
A rudimentary starter setup
Photographing
Your ProjectsShow your work at its best.By John Blackford and Paul Anthony
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30 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
The Necessary Gear
Camera and tripodYou can use any camera to shoot
your work, ranging from a DSLR
like the one shown in Photo A,
enormous selection of strobe
units (Photo B
Photo C
Hot lightingusing bulbs as
strong as 500 wattsis less
Photo D
much light, those with at least
(Photo E
Photo C
A
D
B
E
C
Use a camera tripod for steady
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Photos: John Blackford, Paul Anthony April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 31
For best results, place a light on
each side of the camera, aiming
each toward the project at about
90 to the other light. Initially,
set one strobe twice as bright
as the other. (If using hot lights,
use a 250-watt bulb in one
light and a 500-watt bulb in the
other.) This will create enough
shadow to give the project
some depth while avoiding
You can move the lights
around and adjust brightness
to emphasize important details
such as joinery in the workor
illuminate either the background
or areas that are too dark. Other
options include combining a
single light with secondary
illumination bounced off a white
Another reason to use
avoid the harsh, unattractive
shadows produced by a very
small light source such as the
bulb itself. By bouncing the
(See photo, page 32), shooting
through a white translucent
umbrella, or using a soft box,
you effectively increase the size
of the light source and soften
shadows in the process. A soft
box holds the lamp within dark
material and faced with diffusion
fabric. (See photos above.)
Note that the size of a light is
relative to its distance from the
subject. Just as moving a light
forward boosts illumination,
it also increases the effective
size of the light. Use this to
your advantage. For example,
to alleviate harsh shadows,
try moving the lights closer
even a small light can cast
soft shadows when close in.
consists of a single light aided by
Two lights plus a many challengingarrangements the two main lights
fail to reach.
The most basic setupconsists of a single light the project. This has limited
One of the bestsetups uses two and intensityallows greater
One light and aboard
Two lights and aboard
One light
Two lights
Project
Project
Project
Project
Camera
Camera
Camera
Camera
Umbrella
UmbrellaUmbrella
Umbrella
Umbrella Umbrella
Posterboard
Posterboard
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32 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
At an aperture of f4, the depth of
which you may or may not want.
and light control
The size of the lens opening(the aperture) affects both
control. Smaller apertures
(higher numbers) produce
36" from a 50mm lens at f4 is
1.89", while at f11 its 5.38".
admits twice as much light.
Light size affects the type of
shadow. A small light produces
sharp shadows and an abrupt
transition from light to dark.
(See the photo below left).
A larger light produces soft
shadows and a smoother
transition (below right).
As shown in the diagram at
equal to the square of its
distance; therefore, doubling the
distance yields only a quarter
of the light (two f-stops).
in 116
Lamp
Proper f22 f11 f2.8f16 f8 f5.6 f4
2' (Y)
(X)
(14X)
(116X)
4' (2Y)
8' (4Y)
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 33
Underexposure.The photo
White balanceAccurately capturing in photos
the warm, inviting colors of the
woods you use in your projects
can be a challenge. When
shooting JPEG images, setting
your camera's white balance for
whatever light youre using (such
work well enough. When shooting
RAW format (which captures all
color adjustments must be made
during computer processing
afterward. That's because the
camera's white balance settings
are bypassed in RAW format.
Tip Alert
ExposureExposure refers to the amount
of light the camera records. A
properly exposed photowhich
will yield similar tones to the
subjectresults from capturing
the correct amount of light. You
can adjust exposure by changing
the intensity of your lights, their
distance from the project, the
or the size of the aperture. With
hot lights, you can also vary the
Proper Exposure.
Overexposure.
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34 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Successful photography depends
on following an organized
approacheven though you
may end up varying the
plan as you proceed. Follow
these general guidelines to
produce a nicely composed,
well-exposed photo, such as
the one of this small table.
1Pull your seamless paper downonto your staging to create a
very gradual roll-off at its rear
edge. Place your project near the
center and well away from the
paper wall. Then position the
piece and camera in tandem for
best composition. In the case of
a rectilinear piece like this table,
angle it to indicate its depth, and
raise the camera enough to show
the table top without featuring it.
2Position the main light toilluminate the broadest forward
surface of the project, and
shadows cast by the main light.
3Adjust the main light toilluminate the main surfaces
without washing out detail. If
necessary, reposition it to create
on the bead at the bottom of this
light to between half and three-
quarters of the main's intensity.
4Take a test shot with thecamera set at f8 and ISO 100 to
inset in Photo Aindicates proper
exposure. But we can do better.
(The widest, tallest section of
the histogram represents the
most prominent visual data.) If
the image is too dark, open the
camera aperture one stop (from
f8 to f5.6) to double the amount
of light recorded. If the image is
too light, close the aperture one
stop to f11. As you change the
Use the cameras
histogram to ensure
histogram is located center-right.
yielding a clear, well-lit photo
match in size in both eyes.
Check the focus by zooming in
on your cameras LCD screen to
near and far edges. If blurry, use
smaller f-stops such as f11 or f16.
A B
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aperture, the peak portion of the
histogram will shift left or right.
Adjust exposure to shift the bulk
of the histogram about two-thirds
to the right without any clipping
against the edges. When using
strobes, shutter speed changes
won't help; just leave the shutter
set to the synchronization speed
shown in your camera manual.
5Initially focus about one-thirdof the way into the depth of your
project. Placing the center point
of your autofocus system on
that spot will generally produce
the best overall sharpness.
After taking a shot, zoom in on
the spot using the LCD panel
if necessary. Check the front
and back edges of the table for
sharpness (see the photo at far
left, opposite), and reduce the
aperture (to a higher number) if
6Take another test shot, andtweak the light balance, focus,
and composition as needed. If
shadows crawl up the vertical
part of the background, do
one of the following: Raise the
lights, move the project closer
light to wash out the shadow.
7If the project itself stillhas undesirably dim areas,
however necessary to bounce
light into those spaces.
8At this point, you should beprett y close to home. Take one
it for focus, composition,
proper exposure, and any
odd shadows or highlights
that may need correction. (To
really scrutinize the picture,
temporarily slip the memory
card into a computer for
viewing on a larger screen.)
Photo B showsthe completed
photograph of our example. The
table is attractively positioned,
in focus, accurately exposed,
and well lit with nice contrast
and no undesirable shadows
or distracting elements.
April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 35
Detail Shots
About Our Authors
Sources
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36 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Family members and friendswill enjoy the good times aroundthis accommodating outdoor
project that seats up to eight
happy diners. Theres nothing
tricky about the construction.
Plugged exterior-grade screws
and waterproof glue bond the
2-by parts together, guaranteeing
years of use. A hole at the
tabletops center allows you
to insert an umbrella to shield
diners from intense sunlight.
The chevron-shaped benches
attached to the cross supports
allow for easy-access seating,
unlike standard picnic table
designs, which force you to climb
over the seats to sit down. For
plans for the complementary
lazy Susan, see page 44.
Note:To protect against rot
and insects, I used western
red cedar. Other outdoor wood
choices include redwood, cypress,
and pressure-treated pine.
OctagonalPicnic Table
By Bill Sands
Overall dimensions: 9134"w 29"h
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 37
Figure 1:
Notch Detail
Figure 2:
#8 212"ext. screw
#8 212" ext.
#8 3" ext. screw
#8 3" ext. screws
#8 3" ext. screws
#8 3" ext. screw
412"
134"
Notch (to match
Align leg to frontedge of base.
6712
6712
671
2
6712
671
2
6712
20"
6"
60
60
45 4545 45
ends at 67
112 rounded over
holes 34" infrom edges.
Round over edge
#20 biscuits
38
Round over edge.
6712
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38 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Build the cross framesNote: Before building, take aminute to inspect your stock
and select the best boards for
each section. Any chips, knots,
or bad spots should be kept
on the underside faces or cut
out when laying out parts. Any
crowned faces should face up
once fastened in place to better
shed water. The most visible
parts, or those that will be in
contact with arms and legs, must
be smooth and splinter free.
1 Now, working with eitherdimensional lumber or thicker
stock that you joint and planeto the part thicknesses in the
Cut List, crosscut the left and
right seat frame parts (A) and
left and right tabletop frame
parts (B) to length. Also, cut
the eight spacers (C) to size.
(See Figure 1for reference.)
2 Lay out the centered notcheson both faces of the seat frame
parts (A) and tabletop frame parts
(B), where shown in the Detail
in Figure 1. (Here, measure
the thickness of the combined
frame parts and spacer [C]
when sandwiched together for
the notch widths. The mating
the shoulder cuts as shown in
Photo A. Then make multiple cuts
between the shoulder cuts to the
baseline of the notch. Cut out the
waste with a chisel and mallet.
Repeat for the other notches.
3 At the mitersaw, bevel-cutthe ends of the left and right
seat frame parts (A) and left
and right tabletop frame parts
(B) at 6712, referring to Figure 1
for the bevel orientations.
4 as a workbench, group the left
and right frame parts (A) and the
left and right frame parts (B),
Use a backsaw to cut the notch shoulders, guiding
A B
C
Tip Alert
As seen in Photo C, I cut a
drilled two 116
didnt contact each other.
Base line
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 39
orienting each group with theirnotches up. Align the part ends,
and clamp them together and
to the workbench. Clean up the
notches, as shown in Photo B.
5 On a level surface, test-assemble the interlocking seat
(A) and table (B) cross frames,
in Figure 2and as shown
in Photo C. Disassemble.
6Use exterior glue in all of the
joints. Reassemble the frame
parts. Mark the screw-hole
locations, and drill counterbored
pilot holes. Starting at the mating
notch joints, drive four exterior-
grade 3" screws vertically to join
the seat and table frame pieces (A
and B). Drive 3" screws through
the frame sides and into spacers
(C). Repeat for all spacer joints.
Cut the parts andassemble the seat bases1 Using 112"-thick 512"-wide stock, cut the table legs
(D), seat bases (E), and seat
legs (F) to length and at the
angles shown inFigure 2.
2 Place a seat leg (F) on a tableleg (D) aligning the bottom ends
using a backstop, as shown in
Photo D.Strike a reference line
on the table leg. This will comeinto play in Step 4and again
when attaching the seat cross
frame later. Similarly, strike lines
on the remaining legs. Continue
the lines across the edges and
opposite faces of the table legs.
3 As shown in Photo E, fastena seat base (E) to two seat legs
(F) using three 3" screws per
leg driven into counterbored
holes. Note that the seat legs
of the seat bases, as shown
in Figure 1. Repeat for all
four seat base assemblies.
4 Make a pair of angledseat base spacers, as shown inFigure 2. Next, clamp a table
leg (D) in your bench vise with
the top end down, aligning the
reference lines with the surface
of your benchtop. Now, using the
spacers, fasten a seat base/seat
legs assembly (E/F) to the bottom
end of the leg with 3" screws and
exterior glue, as shown in Photo F.
Mark and counterbore three
centered holes in the joining
parts and drive the screws.
Repeat to make the remaining
three base assemblies (D/E/F).
D E
F
to bench
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5 Cut eight seat cleats (G) to size,and glue and screw them with212" screws to the inside faces of
the seat legs (F). Extend them 78"
beyond the outside edges of the
legs, and make their top edges
Add the base assembliesto the seat cross frames1 Strike lines 1334" to strikein from the ends across the
top edges of the seat cross
frames assembly (A/C). This
line tells where the table legs
(F) intersect the top edges of
the seat frames assembly.
2 Clamp a pair of scrapalignment stops along the top ofthe reference lines on the sides
of the base assembly (D/E/F/G)
in place between the seat frames
(A), aligning the reference lines
and resting the stops on the
top edges of the frames. Next,
mark the screw locations on the
outside face of one seat frame.
(As before, I made and used a
plywood marking jig for this.)
Slide the base assembly out of the
way, and apply glue in the base
assembly/seat frames mating
area, as shown in Photo G.
3 Slide the base assembly (D/E/F/G) into place, as shown inPhoto H. Once all the key parts
align, drill counterbored holes
for 3" screws. Repeat the process
for attaching the remaining
base assemblies to the seat
frames cross assembly (A/C).
Form the tabletopperimeter frames
1Set up your mitersaw to
2212 (once cut, the miter angle
of the board will be 6712).
Verify the angle with a test
cut. Using a stop to establish
consistent lengths, angle-cut the
top perimeter boards (H) and
the bottom perimeter boards
(I) to length. See Figure 2.
2 Using a square, or with a shop-made marking jig as shown in
Figure 3and Photo I,mark the
biscuit locations on the ends of
the perimeter boards (H, I). Note:
All top perimeter boards receive
biscuit slots; only the mating
ends of the bottom perimeter
board pairs receive slots.
3 Adhere a 38"-thick spacer toyour biscuit jointerwith double-
faced tape, and cut biscuit
slots that are centered on the
thickness of the top and bottom
40 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Set aside the base assembly with its alignment
stops while spreading glue on the hard-to-
placing a straightedge across the top ends of the
seat legs and top edges of the seat frames.
G H
Figure 3: Biscuit Slot Marking Jig
Alignment stop
Alignment sto
Fence58 58 10"glued or screwed in place
Base18 314 10"
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 41
perimeter boards (H, I). Alignthe centerline of the tool with
the marks made in Step 2. Cut
the slots, as shown in Photo J.
4 Build the perimeter framesassembly jig in Figure 4using
scrap plywood and solid stock.
5 Drill pocket holes onthe bottom faces of the top
perimeter boards (H) at the
ends to fortify the biscuit joints
and to snug up the pieces during
assembly. Position the holes at
least 34" in from the edges.Be
sure the hole locations do not
cause the screws to exit the
edges of the perimeter boards.
surface, apply glue in the slots,
insert the biscuits, and place
two top perimeter pieces bottom
faces up in the assembly jig.
Drive the pocket screws to snug
the joint. Move the assembly
and fasten another perimeter
board, as shown in Photo K. Fit
a spacer under the cantileveredend of the assembly to keep
it level. Add a fourth board to
make one-half of the octagonal
top perimeter frame. Build the
other half. Let the glue set up.
6 Drill two pocket holes on thebottom faces of the non-mating
ends of the bottom perimeter
boards making up the four
chevron-like frame sets. Use
the assembly jig to glue up the
sets. Set the four frame sets
aside to let the glue cure.
7 Next, glue and screw the twohalf frames together to make
the octagonal top perimeterframe. (I used a strap clamp
to help tighten one half frame
against the other.) After the
glue sets up, remove the strap.
1 With the octagonal perimeterframe (H) top face down on a
large assembly surface, place the
tabletop cross frames assembly
(B/C) on the octagons bottom
face. Insert and clamp scrap
112"-thick leg spacers between
the tabletop frame parts to
Hold the biscuit marking jig fence along the
outside edge of the perimeter boards to mark
consistent biscuit slot centers with a pencil.
place, align the biscuit joiner centerline with
the mark, and plunge-cut the slot.
clamped to its fence, glue and screw the top perimeter boards end to end.
I J
K
packing tape or coat of wax
to the jig to keep the parts
Biscuit slotmarking jig
12" thick spacer
Perimeter frames
38" thick spacer
Centered slot
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42 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Photo L
2
Photo M 1
Cut and install the
tabletop boards1
Cut List Figure 2
2
38
3
4
5
1
Add the base and seats1
Figure 4: Perimeter Frames Assembly Jig
Check the distance from the octagons corners to
the ends of the tabletop cross frames to center
top cross frames assembly and octagon.
L M
112"-thickleg spacer
Leg spacer
Fence112 112 1534"
#8 12
Base12 13 30"
2212
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 43
the center of the tabletop cross
frames opening on the bottom
face of the center tabletop
board (L). Drill a small pilot hole
through the board. Next, saw a
112 112 36" piece of scrap.
2 Apply glue on the inside faces
of the ends of the table frames(B/C). Carefully lift the base
assembly, turn it upside down,
the (B) members of table
frames. Insert the 112"-square
piece into the center openings
of the frames to align the seat
frames over the table frames.
Remove the 112" piece. Now,
counterbore holes, and drive 3"
screws to secure the base to thetabletop, as shown in Photo N.
3 octagonal picnic table right side
Using a 112
the umbrella hole, guiding on the
pilot hole drilled in Step1.
Lay out the seat parts (M, N)
to the sizes in the Cut List
and as shown in Figure 2. Cut
same spacing for the tabletop
boards, fasten the seat parts
G), using glue and 212" screws
in counterbored holes.
4 Cut plugs from cedar scrap.Then, glue the plugs in place
to cover up the hardware.
plane or sand them even.
5 Sand the octagonal picnic
table to 180 grit. Using a
14"-radius round-over bit in a
handheld router, round over the
umbrella opening and all exposed
seat and table edges. Wipe the
sprayed on Sikkens Cetol SRD.)
Drill counterbored pilot holes through the table frames and into
N
Octagonal Picnic Table Cut List
Part Thickness Width Length Qty. Matl
A 112" 312" 88316" 4 C
B 112" 312" 48" 4 C
C Frame spacers 112" 312" 312" 8 C
D Table legs 112" 512" 3318" 4 C
E Seat bases 112" 512" 24" 4 C
F Seat legs 112" 512" 14" 8 C
G Seat cleats 112" 112" 9" 8 C
H Top perimeter boards 112" 512" 21516" 8 C
I 112" 512" 1618" 8 C
J* Outside tabletop boards 112" 512" 2812" 2 C
K*Outside adjacent tabletopboards
112" 512" 391516" 2 C
L Center tabletop boards 112" 512" 4012" 3 C
M
boards112" 512" 26" 8 C
N 112" 512" 2358" 8 C
Materials:C = Cedar
Hardware/Supplies:#8 212" and #8 3" exterior-grade screws;
Convenience-PLUS
BUYING GUIDE
1. #153577 $2.75
2. #142693 $8.99
3. #85O13 $5.29
Router Fence Dust 12"
4. #148483 $20.99
#8 212
woodcraft.com Prices subject to change without notice.
4. $54.99
Above item is available at amazon.com. Pricesubject to change without notice.
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44 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Passing the ketchup andmustard around the picnic
table just got a whole lot easier
with this table topper. Glue
and splines hold the perimeter
of the table frame together. A
lazy Susan bearing hidden in
a channel underneath allows
for the rotation, while a hole
in the center of the assembly
accommodates an umbrella
shaft. With the stock and
bearing on hand, you can build
the piece in an afternoon.
Make the perimeter frame1 Starting with an 8'-longcedar 26 or a piece of 6/4
cedar of similar length and
width, mill the wood to 114"
thick by 312" wide for the
perimeter frame pieces (A).
2 Install a 34"-wide dado set inyour tablesaw, and raise it 34"
above the table. Adjust the fence
1" from the dado set, and begin
cutting a 178"-wide channel, 34"
deep, on one face of the board.
Adjust the fence as necessary to
achieve the channels full width.
(This will be the bottom face;
the edge in contact with the
fence will be the outside edge.)
3 Using a 14" dado set and a
it, cut a 14" rabbet, 34" deep along
the top face and inside edge of the
board, where shown in Figure 1.
4 Adjust your mitersaw tothe right to cut at 6712 (or
2212, depending on your saws
settings). Set up a 4"-wide
stopblock on the right side of the
blade for an 8"-long cut to create
the trapezoids making up the
perimeter frame. Now, make a
test cut on a 312"-wide piece of
scrap. Swing the blade to 671
2to the left. Slide the test piece
against the stop and make the
cut. Verify the angles and length.
Next, set the blade to 6712 right,
right end of the perimeter board
stock. Set the blade to 6712 to
the left, slide the mitered end of
the board to the stop, and cut the
Repeat the procedure to cut theremaining seven frame pieces.
5 Using an exterior-grade glue
up the perimeter frame pieces
(A) to form an octagon, clamping
with a strap clamp. Let the glue
set up and remove the strap.
6 Make the slot-cutting jig inFigure 2 for your tablesaw using
scrap 34" MDF or plywood. Shape
a pair of add-on fences to suit
the octagonal frame, and adhere
them to the jigs tall fence using
double-faced tape. Install a saw
bottomed kerf, and raise the blade
to cut 34"-deep into the corners of
the octagonal frame. Adjust the
saw fence to center the slot cuts
in the edge of the frame. Now,
place the frame on the jig, clamp
slot. Similarly, cut the remaining
slots at each perimeter joint.
7 Resaw enough 1"-wide spline
(I used walnut for contrast.)
Cut the pieces to length, work
glue into the slots with a thin
applicator, and tap the splines in
place. After the glue sets, trim
edges of the octagonal frame.
HardworkingLazy SusanGive your outdoor dining table a new spin.
By Bill Sands Overall dimensions: 1912"w 1912"d 114"h
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Figure 2:
April/May 2014 45
Add the tabletop boards,stabilizer, and bearing1 Cut enough 34"-thick stockto 318" wide for the outside
tabletop boards (B) and
inside tabletop boards (C).
2
of the outside tabletop boards (B)at 6712
snugly against the inside edges of
the octagonal frame. Fit the pieces
in place, as shown in Figure 1.
3 Measure the distance betweenthe outside tabletop boards
(B). Subtract from this number
the combined widths of the
two inside tabletop boards (C).
Divide the remainder by three
for the spacing between thetabletop boards once in place.
4 Cut the inside tabletopboards (C) to length. Using the
established spacing, set the
boards on the octagonal frame
opening parallel to the outside
tabletop boards (B), and mark
corners of the tabletop boards,
and pin (or clamp) all the pieces
in place in the frames rabbet.
5 Cut the octagonal stabilizer (D)to the size in the Cut List. Center
and glue it in place, orienting the
grain at a 45 angle to the grain
direction of the tabletop boards.
6 Drill a centered 112" hole foran umbrella shaft in the lazy
Susan assembly (A/B/C/D).
7 With a 14" radius round-overbit in a router table or handheld
router, round over the edges of
the lazy Susan and the 112" hole.
Avoid letting the bearing dip
into the gap between the boards.
Sand the assembly through 220
(I used Sikkens Cetol SRD.)
8 Center the bearing in thechannel in part A, and screw
it in place. The rubber feet
extend below the assembly.
Lazy Susan Cut List
Part Thickness Width Length Qty. MatlA 114" 312" 8" 8 C
B 34" 18" 1134" 2 C
C 34" 18" 13" 2 C
D 34" 12" 512" 1 C
Materials:Hardware/Supplies: 14
Convenience-PLUSBUYING GUIDE
1316 516
woodcraft.com
Figure 1:
112
18 34
114
18 34
34
2212
312 13
34
34 14
14
14 34
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46 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
In truth, the great outdoors isntthat great for wood. Sunlight(UV radiation), moisture, plus
a host of insects and microbes
are all dead-set on turning your
project back into the dirt from
whence it came. Paint provides
the best defense; unfortunately,
the pigments that protect also
cover up the woods grain and
your workmanship. If you want
the woodand your workto shine
days isnt as clear as it once was.
In addition to a host of familiar
offerings, advanced chemistry
restrictions) has created a bunch of
new options. Choice can be a good
thing, but with so many products
silently sitting side-by-side on the
store shelf, its easy to get confused.
To help you make sense of your
options, Ive divided outdoor clear
and provided examples to illustrate
the range of products within each
group. Additionally, Ive included
two outside of the box products
that deserve consideration.
next project, start by comparing
the major differences, such as
application ease and service
life, and select a category. Next,
check the attributes within each
subcategory, and pick a winner.
(To make quick sense of the facts,
skip ahead to the chart on p. 50.)
This shouldnt come as a surprise,
but eventually, weather will win.
That said, if you choose the right
product and do what it takes to keep
up its defenses, you can help your
project hold out for many years.
Clear OutdoorFinishesWeather will eventually win,but heres how to play good defense.
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
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VarnishesPros:
Cons:
April/May 2014 47
Whether the can says spar
(varnishes are a traditional
safe to assume that the product
enough to withstand outdoor
conditions and to protect against
moisture and UV radiation.
Varnishes are intended to be
built up to create thick physical
Alkyd(Oil-Based) VarnishesTraditional oil-based varnishes
lead the pack in durability. Most
can hold their own for 2 to 3
years before they look chalky.
involves scuff-sanding the
topcoat and applying a fresh coat.
maintenance. If damage makes
need to completely strip the
project and start from scratch.
With a top-quality natural
does take time. Factoring in the
drying t imes and the requisite
and a few more days before
the project is ready for use.
Acrylic(Water-Based) VarnishesAs with most water-based
not raise the grain. In terms
varnishes are whiter than
neither had the color-sapping
acrylics. The color clarity also
allows you the ability to use
this varnish as a protective
topcoat on painted projects.
no further. Acrylics cure
considerably faster than oil-
based varnishes and quicker than
I could apply a smooth coat of
acrylic in roughly half the time
it took to brush out and tip off
The biggest surprise was how
much easier acrylics were to
corn up when scuff-sanding
that you sand a lot to correct
be the reason to try acrylic.
Whether acrylics resist
better than alkyds remains
plenty of reasons why you
should give acrylics a try.
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48 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Oil/Varnish BlendsIn theory, oil/varnish blends
combine the best of both worlds.
to apply (with a brush, rag, or
garden sprayer) than heavier-
bodied varnishes. The resins
offer additional protection
against moisture and abrasion.
However, while blends offer
barrier still doesnt do much to
block moisture or vapor. And
while most blends contain UV
inhibitors, not much defense
can be packed into a clear coat
thats only a few microns thick.
If the piece spends most of its
days outdoors, you should plan
on making regular inspections
as soon as the wood appears dull
(about every year). The good
news is that oil/varnish blends
project might only require a light
scrubbing or power-
washing before its
ready for recoating.
Furthermore,
repairs are easy. If the wood
starts to stain or turn grey,
you can usually get away
with spot-sanding and then
applying a few touch-up
coats to the problem spot.
Hardening OilsTung oil is one of the few
naturally-hardening oils that
is suitable for outdoor use. To
use, simply wipe it on, wait, andthen wipe off, and wait (each
coat requires a day or two to
tung oil offers a decent defense
against moisture; however,
because it lacks UV inhibitors,
projects exposed to sunlight
will eventually turn grey.
Made from a blend of natural
oils (including linseed), Odies Oxi
Oil is solvent-free and nontoxic.
In contrast to slow-curing tung
oil, Odies looks good after only
one coat and dries in only 72
hours. To use, simply apply with
a rag or abrasive pad, give theoil 30 minutes to sink into the
wood, and then buff off the excess.
Because it contains natural
waxes and UV inhibitors, Odies
has an edge over tung oil when it
comes to combating moisture and
sunlight, but the barrier is still
thin. To keep defenses up, youll
need to monitor your project
and apply a fresh coat when the
surface starts to appear dry.
and easy to apply and provide the most natural feel and
appearance. Unfortunately, in comparison to varnishes, these
Mother Nature. And because most oils cure so soft, you cant
expect multiple coats to create a thicker, more durable defense.
As a group, oils are the most easily misunderstood becausethe products have completely different makeups. To understand
your choices, it helps to divide this category into subgroups:
hardening, oil/varnish blends, and polymerized oils.
OilsPros:
No sanding required between coats
Finish will not chip or peel
Cons:
Most oils cannot be built up
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When shopping for clear wood
OneTime Wood Protector
Woodlife Classic
One-Time And Woodlife Classic
April/May 2014 49
Polymerized OilsAlthough not evident from the
label, Tru-Oil is different enough
to deserve a special category. This
polymerized (polymerization
refers to a cooking
process in an oxygen-free
environment) product isessentially partially-
cured. Once exposed
to oxygen, the oil
cures harder, faster,
and glossier than
tung oil and most oil/
varnish blends. With
multiple coats, its
possible to build up
that can hold its ownagainst the elements.
The downside to the
polymerization process is that the
curing clock is already ticking.
Compared to other oils and
blends, Tru-Oil tacks up quickly
and may develop tiny cracks if
its applied too thick. For these
reasons, it should be reserved
for smaller, more manageable
scales and gun stocks.
Looking at Linseed Oil? Look elsewhere.
Safety Alert
Online Extra
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Outdoor Clear Finishes Comparison ChartProduct Type Cost Recd
coatsWaterResistance(Moisture/Vapor)
UVResistance
Mildewresistance
Film-Building
Cleanup Drying(hours)
Notes
Tung Oil Oil $20.99/qt. Rag, brush 5 Y/N N N N Mineralspirits
24 excess or gummy.
OdiesOxi Oil
Oil $27.99/9 oz. Rag, brush 1-2 Y/N Y N N Mineralspirits orD-Limo-nene
72 Wax providesmoistureresistance.
GeneralFinishesOutdoor Oil
Oil/Var-nish
$17/qt. Rag, brush 2 Y/N Y Y N Mineralspirits
10 Darkensslightly
WatcoTeak Oil
Oil/Var-nish
$18/qt. Rag, brush 2 Y/N Y Y N Mineralspirits
10 Recom-mened forhardwoods(mahogany,teak, ipe).
WatcoExteriorWood
Oil/Var-nish
$16/qt. Rag, brush 2 Y/N Y Y N Mineralspirits
10 Recom-mended forSlight yellow
Tru-Oil Polymer-
ized Oil
$17/8 oz. Rag, spray
(aerosol can)
5 Y/Y N Y Y Mineral
spirits
24 Apply in
thin layers toavoid cracks.Does notyellowwith age.
System 3Spar
Oil $40/qt. Brush 9-12 Y/Y Y N Y Mineralspirits
24-48 Can beappliedover epoxy.Darkens
VarathaneSpar
Oil $19/qt. Brush 3 Y/N Y N Y Mineralspirits
72 Darkens
BehlensWWVarnish
Oil $23/qt. Brush 3 Y/N Y N Y MineralSpirits
24-48 Nearly color-less. Darkensless thanother oils.
Waterlox(Sealer andMarineFinish)
Oil $32/qt.$43/qt.
Brush, rag 31 sealer/2 top
Y/Y Y N Y Mineralspirits
72-96 Sandingnot requiredfor adhesionof next coat.Darkens
Varathane Acrylic $16/qt. Brush, roller,sprayer
4 Y/Y Y N Y Soap andwater
24 Can besanded in2 hours.
GF Exterior450
Acrylic $23/qt. Brush, roller,sprayer
3Y/Y Y Y Y Soap and
water24 Can be
sanded in 2hours. Worksas topcoat onGF paints. Notrecommendedfor ipe or teak.
OneTime AcrylateResin
$35/qt. Brush, roller,sprayer
1 Y/N Y N N MineralspiritsorSimpleGreen
24-48 100% solid;requires UVto cure. No
WoodlifeWoodPreserva-
Acrylic $12/qt. Brush, roller,sprayer, dip
3 Y/Y N Y Y Soap andwater
24 Sealerand primer.Above-grounduse only.EPAregisteredmildewcide.
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April/May 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 51
Frame-and-panel constructionhas been used for centuries to
build cabinet doors, case sides,
and other assemblies. It is so
attractive you might think it was
designed that way just for looks.
But it was actually devised as an
elegant solution to the perennial
problem of wood movement.
The problem is that a simple
solid wood panel expands and
contracts across its width in
response to seasonal changes in
humidity. So if such a single-slab
panel was used as a cabinet door,
for example, it might swell shut
during high summer humidity
and shrink enough to show
unsightly gaps during winters
low humidity. With frame-and-
unglued inside a frame where its
allowed to expand and contract
while the frame maintains a
consistent overall size. Brilliant.
Of course, panels can also
be made from plywood, MDF,
and other stable man-made
materials. This approach offers
the beauty of frame-and-panel
construction without the
wood movement problems.
Whatever style you choose, its
not hard to build frame-and-
panel assemblies, especially
with the st ile-and-rail router
bit sets available these days
for the frame joinery. However,
designing and making assemblies
well requires some nuance and
a basic understanding of wood
movement. Here, Ive compiled
a handful of tips and techniques
your frame-and-panel work.
Frame-and-Panel FinesseLooks and longevity are in the details.By Paul Anthony
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How it works
52 woodcraftmagazine.com April/May 2014
Wood is hygroscopic; that is, it absorbs moisture
from the air. And when it does, the moisture
swells the cell walls, causing the wood to expand
across its grain. Conversely, when moisture in
the air decreases, the wood will shrink acrossits grain. This response to changing seasonal
humidity must be factored into the design
of a piece of furniture if its to last. Frame-
and-panel construction is a solution that
allows a wide solid wood panel to expand and
contract freely within grooves in the frame.
The frame consists of stiles (the vertical
members) and rails (the horizontal members)
that are relatively narrow, so they wont
substantially change dimension over the
seasons. This dimensionally stable constructionhouses the panel within the frame grooves. A
tongue at the panel perimeter tucks into the
between the two even as the
panel changes width.
into its frame, leave a gap
between the panel sides and
the stile grooves to allow for
wood movement. (Because
the panel wont change length,
between its rail grooves.) A
that the fully expanded panel
wont muscle the frame joints
apart. Likewise, you dont want
a fully contracted panel to pull
entirely away from its grooves.
In the case of man-made
materials (e.g., plywood
and MDF), the frame serves
to restrain the panel from
warping and to hide any ugly
from the aesthetics borrowed
from traditional frame-and-
panel design. And because
a plywood panel is stable, it
can be glued into the frame
grooves, making for a virtually
indestructible assembly.
Door Anatomy
Wood Movement
Top rail
Tongue
Bevel
Dowel or otherpin throughrear face keepspanel centered.
No expansiongap needed inrail grooves.
Expansion gap
Negligiblemovement acrossgrain of narrow
No movement
No movement
Solid wood expandsand contracts onlyacross the grain.
Solidwoodpanel sitsungluedin framegrooves.
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Although most panels can
simply be categorized as either
in small shops today are cut on
thickness. The simplest approach
is to