Wine Republic N75

1

ISSN 1853-9610

Nº75 OctOber - NOvember 2015meNDOZA’S Free mAGAZINe

FREE

FREE

MendozaWinery

Guide

Water Works

Maipu Renaissance

Irrigation was never so fascinating

www.wine-republic.com

4

Issue October-November 2015 | ISSN 1853-9610 - 10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613 E-mail: [email protected]: Charlie O’Malley Assistant Editor: Emilie Giraud.Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus: [email protected], [email protected]: Circlan.com .Jona Conti. [email protected]. Printer: Artes Gráficas UNIONContributing Authors: Emilie Giraud, Mariana Gómez Rus. Photos: Emilie Giraud, Mariana Gómez Rus. Jona Conti.Illustrations: Donough O’Malley, www.pencilrobot.netOpinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic. www.wine-republic.com

CREDITS

ConTEnTS

6

6

6

8

11

12

Maipu Rennaisance

The giant eastern wine district .........................

Out & About

Dining out................................................................

Winery Guide.........................................................

Bars............................................................................

Maps & More

Useful information...............................................

Maps of Maipú and Chacras de Coria............

Map of Mendoza City Center...........................

24

26

28

31

33

33

34

News Republic

Big Mountains, Big Air..........................................

Will She Blow............................................................

Wine Advocate Argentina...................................

Are you vegetarian?

Survival guide to Mendoza .................................

WishList

Vegan-friendly wines...........................................

Water Works

Irrigation was never so fascinating. ...............

Potrerillos Dam

5

Maipu Rennaisance

The giant eastern wine district .........................

Out & About

Dining out................................................................

Winery Guide.........................................................

Bars............................................................................

Maps & More

Useful information...............................................

Maps of Maipú and Chacras de Coria............

Map of Mendoza City Center...........................

6

nEWS REPUBLICBig Mountains, Big AirKite surfing takes off this month at Potrerillos lake

with the annual Kiteboarding Tour 2015, organised by

the Argentine Association of Kite Surfers. Some of the

best local and national riders will be competing in the

Freestyle, Big Air and Race categories. You can also

try your hand at this rising sport by taking part in the

instruction classes. After the event there is an “after

beach” party by the lakeside. The dates are october 10,

11 and 12. facebook.com/WachauPotrerillos

Will She Blow?Argentines and Chileans are notoriously bad neighbors

and have a long history of quarrels and crossed

words. The most recent spat occurred when the

Chilean geological service announced unusual seismic

activity around Tupungato volcano and the strong

possibility that this historically dormant peak could

erupt. Tupungato is 110 km south west of Mendoza

city and just 75 km east of Santiago de Chile. Its 6,570

meter snowy summit can be seen from Mendoza city.

An eruption of Tupungato would cause an economic

catastrophe to the wine industry here, especially in

the prestigious Valle de Uco area, and shut down all air

traffic in and out of Santiago airport, a major airway

hub. Such dire warnings by the Chileans caused

panic amongst tweeters and bloggers and forced the

Argentine authorities to declare that they see no such

eventuality. So the question is: Who is right?

Wine Advocate ArgentinaRobert Parker’s love affair with Malbec continues with

the recent release of Wine Advocate’s Argentina 2015

tasting results. A whopping 400 wines were awarded 90

plus points – double what the venerable wine magazine

awarded Argentina in 2009. Top of the list is Gran Enemigo

and Catena Zapata with 98 points and though the list was

dominated by Mendocinian wineries, there was some

notable exceptions such as noemia from Patagonia and

Colome from Salta. Some 1,056 wines were tasted from

200 wineries. Big names dominated with only 30 wineries

achieving the coveted 90 plus ranking. A more interesting

analysis is when you compare the price with the points

ratio, wines scoring around 90 come out as the best value,

with Alamos Malbec, Chardonnay and Torrontes topping

the red and white list (both 90 points). Susana Balbo’s

Crios red blend and Torrontes also gives good bang for

your buck (also 90 points). Top of the price versus points

list however is a 93 point Chenin Blanc from Uco Valley ,

Gen de Alma JiJiJi. A bargain at $130 pesos. But for how

long? (Information courtesy blog.winesofargentina.com).

Tupungato. 6.570 meters above sea level.

8

Argentines love meat. The locals eat on average 100 kilos of meat per year compared to 75 in the US and 66 in France.Argentinians are beef eaters above all. Their beef consumption is twice as high as the world average. They chew through as much as 62 kg of beef, 29 kg of poultry, 7kg of pork and 2 kg of lamb per person per annum. They blissfully ignore nutritionists’ advice, eating 4 times more than the recommended 500 g of meat per person per week. Unsurprisingly, vegetable consumption in the Land of Asado is proportionally way below the average. The typical Argentinian consumes three times less fruits and 8 times less greens than what health specialists recommend.It’s no coincidence that Argentine Malbec is often described as “meaty” and that 90% of all the back labels of wine in Argentina make meat pairing suggestions. No need to tell you that it is quite a challenge to survive in Mendoza as a vegetarian wine lover.

But it is not impossible.

As a vegetarian, you will have to put your ego to one side and accept to be seen as an outcast. Don’t get offended if you are asked to justify your dietary preferences. You are sure to be considered either quite crazy or quite hippie.

Don’t hesitate to give details of what a vegetarian diet is. The fact that chicken, fish or even ham are not vegetarian-friendly is not as obvious as you think.

Revise your concept of “salad”. In most places and homes the portion of salad served is very small and generally not really creative. Expect tomato, onion and lettuce. It might not make your lunch.

Bring your own vegetables to asado nights.Argentinian social life takes place around the “parrilla“ and a traditional dish consists of 80% meat 15% bread and if you are lucky, 5% salad. For you not to feel excluded, bring some aubergines,

How to Avoid Hunger

A VEGETARIAN´S

By Emilie Giraud cannot b

SURVIVAL GUIDE TO MENDOZA

9

zucchinis, red peppers and potatoes to add some colour to the barbecue. “Vegetales asados“ are delicious, but sadly quite overlooked in the asador’s regular agenda.

Alert travel agencies and tour leaders of your dietary requirements.Many places don’t have a regular vegetarian option and need extra logistics to satisfy your needs. It is a good idea to announce your vegetarianism in advance for you not to be served a mix of side dishes.

Pizza Muzzarella, Pasta with white sauce, risotto and empanadas capresse are going to become your best friends.

Don’t freak out, against all odds, there are vegetarian and vegan places in Mendoza I am still not quite sure whether it is an anti-inflation trend or a real change in social habits - but quite a few vegetarian places have opened in Mendoza in the last years and they happen to be even packed at lunch. But the veggie diet seems to be mainly acceptable as a midday option, as the vast majority of these places are closed at night. These little green havens work according to the buffet system. You compose your own plate, weigh your food, heat it in the microwave and eat. There you’ll be able to taste corn or basil, tomato and cheese empanadas, canelones, veggie noodles, vegetable croquettes, or the traditional milanesa made of soya, aubergine or zucchini. If you are lucky, you’ll get to try tomatican, an egg and tomato special.

Plan your nightAt night, even in a fancy restaurant popular among foreign tourists, a vegetarian diet causes the waiter a bit of a head ache. The regular menu can be very diverse but proposes only one vegetarian main course – normally a simple vegetable wok. Like it or starve. Later at night, after 12, the problem increases drastically. In one case of extreme food emergency, Mendocinian vegetarians give themselves a

special treat ordering “primavera pancho”, the veggie hot dog option at Mr Dog’s - bread with mayonnaise, ketchup and potato chips.

Bring your own bottle to vegetarian places, or drink before. The problem with many veggie places in Mendoza is that they don’t offer wine or they have a very poor wine list. Check before if you can bring your own bottle. You might only have to pay a corking fee.

Explain your specific needs to the sommelier. Not all wines are vegan or even vegetarian friendly.Wine is not always only fermented grape juice. Before being bottled, many wines are clarified and stabilized. The purpose is to eliminate yeasts and molecules in order to make the wine look clear, to lower the risk of unwanted flavours during its ageing in bottle and to eliminate harsh tannins so the wine tastes smoother at a younger age. This process called fining can involve some animal-derived products like fish bladders (isinglass), gelatine, fish oil, shells (chitin), milk protein (casein) or egg whites (albumen). Bentonite, a clay alternative is frequently used as a replacement. Some wineries try not to use fining agents and to filter the wine only by slow gravity decantation. The wine becomes clearer on its own, but the process requires extra production time. If organic and biodynamic wines generally do not use animal-derived fining agents, more and more wines from traditional wineries do not either. But better to be prepared before asking the sommelier. For a selection of vegetarian and vegan friendly wines, see the wish list in this WR edition.

Come with some pairing ideas. Otherwise you might be recommended some traditional and rather boring pairing. Many waiters will advise you to pair your vegetarian food with dry white wines but in reality lots of

How to Avoid Thirst

10

vegetarian food go very well with reds, and intense ones as well. A local sommelier gave me some tips that are a good starting point for pairing food and wine in Argentina. According to her, humita, a vegetarian northern Argentinian specialty made with corn, matches very well with local Salta’s wine like a dry Torrontès or even a potent Tannat. In the case of grilled vegetables like asado vegetable or aubergine lasagna, because the veggies are slightly caramelized, she would suggest a Malbec or a Cabernet aged in barrel. the vegetables are not grilled or if they are prepared with soya sauce, she advises to pick a young Pinot or a very light Merlot. A spicy white or Syrah would perfectly balance a spicy dish. For desert, late harvest whites pair well with white fruits, peaches or apricot-based desert and late harvest reds with black and red fruits, dulce de leche, chocolate and hazelnuts.

In some, very few places, you might even just feel perfectly normal as a vegetarian wine lover.Winery restaurants are making a more concerted effort to provide adventurous vegetarian fare. However in too many cases the vegetarian option remains a second class option, when it is not directly an improvised mix of side dishes. Melipal winery in Lujan de Cuyo decided two years ago to put vegetarianism at the very center of its gastronomic agenda proposing an entire wine pairing vegetarian menu. The intimate 25 Couverts restaurant is a soothing experience for any vegetarian person. Sat in front of a landscape of vines overlooked by the majestic Cordon del Plata, you can relax and not stress anymore explaining your diet in broken Spanish. The vegetarian menu is designed to match with the vegan friendly wines of the winery, and you have even different alternatives to chose from. The seasonal five-course menu has a very nice palette of aromas, textures and colours. Not only did Chef Lucas Bustos and his sous chef Juliana Millàn think about the pleasure of your palate, they manage to make vegetarian food look glamorous.

Melipal

11

WISHLIST

Cepas Elegidas Torrontés 2014 Cepas Elegidas or “ selected grapes “ is the very exclusive project of winemaker Brennan Firth. This 2014 edition of 2,550 bottles expresses the typical characteristics of Torrontes from La Consulta, Valle de Uco. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, it is clarified using cold and gravity. This soft Torrontès reveals tropical notes and lush minerality. To balance its good acidity, try it with a salad of lentils, beet, green onions and balsamic vinegar. 90 pesos in Sol y Vino vinoteca

Entrelineas Viognier 2013 Finca la Escarcha Finca la Escarcha was born from scratch in 2004 in Tupungato, Valle de Uco. This 1,400 bottle Viognier edition comes from hand selected grapes in the vineyard and aged for 11 months in French oak barrel. Fresh and unctuous, it expresses herbaceous notes and a hint of smoky aromas, has great acidity and great structure. Clarified with clay based agents. 208 pesos

Kaiken Ultra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012This Cabernet Sauvignon from the renowned Kaiken winery spent 12 months in French oak barrels and was clarified with clay based agents. The potion is a very juicy, mineral and somehow buttery wine, with spices and a sweet finish. It has a very silky texture. Accompany with spicy food. 190 pesos

Lilen Syrah Organico 2009 Bodega AndalhueAndalhue or “ land of the clear sun “ is an organic winery located in Ugarteche, Lujan de Cuyo. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and no use of clarification agents, this Syrah expresses intense aromas of blackberry marmalade and a hint of truffle. nice with salted and seasoned vegetables.. 120 pesos

Melipal Late Harvest Malbec 2011 Sweet tooths will love the traditional Malbec from Agrelo in its late harvest version. It is pretty incredible with hints of dark chocolate, banana and dulce de leche. Its aromas are of black fruits, dry plums and vanilla.. Clarified with clay-derivated agents. 155 pesos.

Vegan-friendly wines

12

When I arrived in Mendoza, what first caught my imagination was the drastic transition between the dry desert surroundings and the green, luxuriant city. Mendoza’s parks, plazas, fountains, trees and its labyrinth of “ acequias “ lining every street belie this province’s parched existence.

In the city center, you can live with the illusion of water abundance for a while, but a trip to the borderland quickly confronts you with the reality. There you’ll find a latent fear of drought, transmitted from generation to generation. Rare are the truck drivers who do not offer a bottle of water to Difunta Correa, a popular saint who died in the badlands of San Juan. Her newborn was found alive, clinging to her breast.The desert highways are lined with little sanctuaries heaped with plastic bottles, each a plea for safe passage without incident or thirst.

The oasis of Mendoza is a drop of water squeezed from the desert by the stubbornness, creativity and constant effort of its settlers. It is just 5% of the province. The remaining 95 % of

the provincial territory is desert, mountain and wild scrub.

If Mendoza is relatively close to the Pacific Ocean, the gigantic Andes, home of the highest summit in the Americas - Mt Aconcagua, act as a natural barrier. The clouds coming from the Pacific have no choice but to discharge their humidity in the mountain while those coming from the Atlantic go out in a puff in the Sierras of Cordoba and San Luis.

It rains only 200 mm per year here, 4 times less than other wine regions like Burgundy and Bordeaux and 6 times less than in New York City.

Ironically, the ability to steer water from the mountain has been the cornerstone of Mendoza`s geographical, economic and social development. Irrigation is its identity, and the good management of water represents a challenge for the future.

Water WorksEmilie Giraud divines the importance of water in Mendoza and how its abundance cannot be taken for granted anymore

Potrerillos Dam

13

Rudolf Steiner

The First Drops

The acequias (street canals), which are so much a part of Mendoza’s identity, had been introduced to the region by the native people the Huarpes. According to accepted wisdom, the huarpes used pre-existing geological faults to help water circulate and irrigate their crops by flooding. The places where they settled and grew crops were always a little bit inclined in order to allow for a better irrigation of the low lands. In the 1480’s, the Incas and their high level of hydraulic knowledge arrived in Mendoza and are said to have consolidated and extended the irrigation system developed by the Huarpes.

Upon the arrival of the Spanish around 80 years later, there were four main acequias in what is now Mendoza urban area. To indicate their importance, they beared the names of the Indian chiefs and would deteremine the territory of different peoples. From the Spanish foundation of Mendoza in 1561, the colonialists copied and extended the original system of irrigation. Interestingly, the Spanish colonial urban model “ la cuadricula” had to adapt itself to the natural reality of the region and integrate with the Indian channels. The plan of the city, including the orientation of the streets was affected by the rationality of water. In the new map, the preexisting ditches and acequias became the new limits of urban and rural sectors. Only the names changed, reflecting who dominated the territory.

By the end of the 18th Century, the control of water was concentrated in very few hands. A powerful Mendocinian establishment appropriated for themselves the best land with access to water. The poor were relegated to the margins of the oasis. This geography of poverty and affluence stills prevails in contemporary Mendoza - the greener the place the richer.

An Italian Genius

The end of the 19th century was a momentous period in the development of the modern water

Potrerillos DamCourtesy: Diario Los Andes

Irrigation.Courtesy: Bodega Kaiken.

Potrerillos Dam

The “Canal”.Courtesy: Press Mendoza.

14

system. The creation of the railway linking Mendoza to Buenos Aires in 1884 meant the massive arrival of migrants. The oasis needed to adapt its water distribution network to deal with this new situation and the resulting growth in crop production.The very same year the railway was inaugurated, the governor Bermejo created the Water Law and the General Department of Water (DGA, then DGI ) in order to normalize the rights and duties of those who received water, the irrigation infrastructure and the distribution of water.By 1885, the majority of houses had access to drinking water. However, a year later, Mendoza was plagued with cholera. The reason being that the acequias served for everything - irrigation of the streets, the fields, sanitation and drinking water.

The arrival of the Italian engineer César Cippoletti, would mark a profound reorganization of the water supply. Cippoletti was brought by the Mendocinian government in 1889 with the object of “ taming the waters of the American Summit ”. At the time, he was world famous for being a pioneer in using hydraulics to generate electricity, the inventor of a gauge to measure better the distribution of water and the creator of major water systems in Europe and Egypt.

For Cippoletti : “Water is the future, anyone who understands that will sow progress”.

Over the 8 years he spent in Mendoza, he designed and supervised the construction of the first water dam in the country in Lujan de Cuyo which was completed in 6 months and nowadays bears his name Dique Cippoletti. This dam is the main point of distribution of mountain water from the Rio Mendoza to the oasis through the use of floodgates and overflows that ensure a better water flow.Inside the oasis, Cippoletti improved the irrigation system and opened up thousands of hectares of desert to cultivation. He also created a separate network for potable water, made the drinkable water canals more hygeinic by covering them, and created a filtrating plant.

The eminent engineer become very powerful in many different Mendocinian institutions linked to water. So much so he provoked jealousy and rivalry. At one point he got expelled by the Mendocinian establishment under the pretext that he had too many official posts, that he did not speak the language and did not enrol his son in the army.After completing 18 dams in Argentina, and numerous other irrigation works in San Juan, Tucuman and Neuquen, political instability with Chile forced him to return temporarily to Europe. On his way back to Argentina, he died in voyage. History now recalls Cipolletti as a visionary that was “born in water, dedicated to water and died inwater “. In 1971, his remains were finally brought back to Mendoza and buried near a statue of him looking over Cippoletti dam.

Dam the Future

In the mid 1920’s hydraulic engineers in Mendoza came up with another plan. The idea was to create an artificial reservoir of water in the mountains, on the Rio Mendoza, in order to control the water flow better, creating a stock of water for irrigation and enabling the production of electrical energy. Potrerillos Dam was finally built 80 years later and opened in 2003. 30 kms from Mendoza,

Cesare Cipolletti

César Cipolletti November 11, 1843, Rome.January 23, 1908.

Was a water engineer of Italian origin who worked in Europe and Argentina.

16

it covers a surface area of 1300 hectares and submerged the historical village of Potrerillos. Nowadays, the magnificent expanse of water with its lost village has become a favored week-end escape for locals.The water from the dam also feeds two hydroelectric plants and covers 20% of the annual electric consumption of the province of Mendoza.

The water is distributed through two historical canals, Canal San Martin and Canal Cacique Guaymallen, each of them replenished every 4 days according to the volume of water stored in the dam. Those canals are then divided into secondary, tertiary and quarterly canals. A huge network of floodgates help to block or release the precious liquid to the different parts of the city. Mendoza now boasts 5000 km of waterways and around 11,000 wells.

The Water Judge

In the growing oasis, there is fierce competition for water. Nowadays, 81 % of the total quantity of water is used for agriculture, 17 % for the domestic network, 1% by other industries and 2 % for public irrigation. The biggest consumer of water is the agricultural sector which relies entirely on irrigation to survive. It rains on average 200 mm of water per year in Mendoza and a plant of vine needs a minimum of 500mm of water per year. A square meter of vineyard absorbs at least 300 litres of water per year to survive.

The same traditional method used by the huarpe to water their land is used today. They get water from the acequias and circulate it by flooding small channels ploughed in the vineyard. Two traditional Cuyo characters are in charge of water distribution – the Water Flow Inspector and the Tomero.

The latter is so important that there are popular songs dedicated to the blessed Tomero. To understand better this very unique, regional career, I went to meet 39-year-old Carlos from Colonia de Junin. He has been working as a

tomero for 20 years. He explains to me that there are two types of tomero, one is in charge of releasing the water from the big channels, and the other, like him, who works in secondary branches of the canal and is responsible for cleaning, maintaining and releasing the right quantity of water to the different farmsTo manage the logistics of irrigation, the Water Ministry has created appointed water times, whose timing depends on the surface under cultivation of each farm. In the 700-hectare territory worked by Carlos, the rule is to give 20 minutes of water per hectare at a speed of 320 litres per second. The responsibility of the tomero consists in checking the level of water in the nearby dikes, opening the sluice gates at the entrance of the network and controling and cleaning the waste thrown into the open acequias to prevent flooding the streets.When the volume of water is normal in the reservoir, each farm gets access to water every 12 days on average. But when the level of water in the reservoir is too low, irrigation is way less frequent. In that case, the

Meltwater

18

tomeros cut the flow of water in the irrigation system for a week every two weeks. Sometimes such a time lapse can endanger the plant.Luis, a peach farmer, told me that once his orchard did not see water for 28 days. It was so harsh on the plants that he decided not to cultivate one part of his property.Carlos the tomero confesses that when he started working 20 years ago, the water was never cut. It was always circulating in some part of the system, except for the Christmas holidays. “But now the cuts are very frequent“. According to him, there is fundamentally less water and many small farmers that have no access to wells have abandoned farming in the last years and sold their property to real estate agents.

In this harsh context, I ask him if people were sometimes so desperate that they would steal water from others. He laughs and adds : “Sometimes, no. All the time. Being neighbors. Can you imagine the conflicts over water ?”

“People use a lot of little tricks to steal the water“ he adds. like putting sticks below the sluice gates to prevent them from closing entirely. With pressure, they get a very nice flow of water”.

When you catch someone doing that, what do you do ? I ask him. He replies wisely that he doesn’ t get too involved.

“You can’t do much, They even break padlocks. They are terrible. Here you know, if we don’t have water, it’s complicated, and people do things out of desperation”.

The next neighboring farmer who gets less water because of theft can report it.

“When it is his turn, he is the owner of the water, so it is his responsibility to report if he is being robbed.”

Irrigation.Courtesy: RucaMalénWinery .

The “Toma”Courtesy by

Emilie Giraud...

20

A little amused, he adds :

“It is considered a serious crime. People reported for stealing water can get a criminal record. If they do it again, they can theoretically get into serious trouble. But in reality, nothing happens. This is Argentina. You need to report an offence, to bring witnesses and then not much happens”.

The tomero is offered lots of bribes. People regularly give him peaches, aubergines, spinach for a minute more of water. In the past, the tomero wasn’t paid by the DGI, each farmer would pay him.”Can you imagine how it worked ? Men would meet him at the sluice gates with a shotgun ”There is no doubt, Water is definitely a question of power in the Province.The DGI even wanted at some point to give to the tomeros the tittle of Water Police. Carlos doesn’t approve of the name. He prefers I call him the Water Judge.

Crisis! What Crisis?

The scarcity of water is worrying people. Last summer, bill boards that have since been covered by political propaganda, were warning the population that Mendoza was in a “Hydric Emergency”, and it was quite common to have the water cut in your house and hotel between 10 am and 10 pmEduardo Sosa, founder of the Mendocinian environmental NGO OIKOS, explains to me that since the foundation of the city up until 20 years ago, there was enough water for domestic, industrial and agricultural use. Since then Mendoza has expanded in population, and has required more land for agriculture and urban development. That requires more water. Currently the oasis does not entirely satisfy the demand for water.

He states ”We lack investment in water distribution and a purification network. For that reason there is a poor efficiency. There is water but the system has collapsed ”.

According to the INA, two thirds of the water distributed for irrigation and domestic use is lost because of overflows or leakage. Only about 5 % of the network has been waterproofed and it’s not rare to find Mendocinian streets full of water due to big waste blocking the acequias. Carlos the tomero told me that people get rid of “everything you can imagine” in the acequias. One day he even found a mattress blocking an acequia. There is also a lot of waste and contamination in the use of water both in the agro-industrial and domestic sectors. “In general, the typical Mendocinian winery requires 3 litres of effluent for 1 litre of wine. It is way above what is practiced in other countries. In France, they use half a litre of effluent for 1 litre of wine”, says Eduardo. “ The DGI says that seven out of ten wineries have problems with the treatment of effluents”.According to him, the majority of the traditional wineries in Mendoza are more focused in selling than thinking about sustainability. Unless consumers show interest in the water print of

Courtesy: Emilie Giraud

22

wine, probably little is going to change. As for the domestic consumption of water, the price of potable water has no relation to what is actually consumed. The bill is calculated by the size of the house and the number of people in the household. This creates little concern about unnecessary waste. Consuming more or less water does not impact your wallet.

From a social perspective, the contamination of water increases inequality and tension. As Eduardo explained to me, the underground reserves of water have been contaminated little by little and nowadays, only people or companies with good financial backing can have deeper wells and access to good quality water. The small producer who doesn’t have access to copious amounts of water must decrease his production. He gets poorer and eventually sells up to richer owners, concentrating the land in few hands.

Apart from the lack of efficiency in the water system, global warming studies show that the scarcity of snow in the high mountains is an even bigger threat.In her thesis, French doctor in geography Emilie Lavie explains that 95 % of the water in the oasis of Mendoza comes from snowfall in the Andes. 85 % comes from the yearly snows and 15% from direct rain or glaciersHer concern is that with climate change, there will be less mountain snow to feed the river. Mendoza is living on its reserves -the glaciers- which according to many different scientific studies are rapidly losing their volume. One of the two main glaciers that provides water - the Juncal glacier - is said to have retreated 7 km, losing 25 km2 of its surface and 33% of its volume in a century. That’s 1200 millions square meters of water.Experts expect the total disappearance of the glaciers in this area by 2100 and more alarmist studies predict this will happen by 2040. The relationship between Mendocinians and water used to be very intertwined. That closeness has been lost with the fast urbanization of the city. The survival of the oasis will depend on people thinking long term and reconnecting

with Cippoletti’s idea that water is fundamental for the future.

I leave the last words to Eduardo. “In 20 years, I imagine there will be more conflicts concerning access to water. If we make good decisions such as promoting a change of crops that better protect the soils and improving the use of the water resource, we will diminish our vulnerability to climate change. “Everything will be played out in the next few years. We must start to think in ecological terms, and that starts with oneself”.

Water Treatment Plant Courtesy: Diario Los Andes

Cipolletti DamCourtesy: estrategiasymercados.com

24

In 1884 two young Swiss-Italian stowaways crossed the Atlantic seeking fame and fortune. They ended up in Maipu, Mendoza where they started a winery that became by the 1920s the biggest winery in the World. Giol employed five

thousand people and produced 60 million liters of wine. It was so big it transported its wine by pipe to the local railway station where it was shipped in rail tanks to Buenos Aires. The two adventurers became filthy rich, married two beautiful sisters and built two palaces next to each other near Maipu plaza.In many ways Gerónimo Gargantino and Juan Giol happened to be in the right place at the right time. Mendoza was booming, shipping tankers of wine to the thirsty metropolis of Buenos Aires. Maipu was the epicenter of that boom and a long list of mostly Italian winemakers operated from this wine district, 30 minutes east of Mendoza. Toso, Lopez, Vicchi, Frugoli, Borbonese,

Longoni, Trapiche, Cerutti, Rutini, Cavagnaro, Palazzo, Falco, Bertona and Furlotti are all household names in Argentina. Maipu was their base of operations.Sadly the 20th Century did not live up to the promise of the 19th. A crisis enveloped the Argentine wine industry, wine consumption plummeted and a whole raft of wineries went bust. Modern Maipu is now scarred with a multitude of abandoned wineries and warehouses, testament to its faded glory. Giol, the king of all vintners, was taken over by the government in the 1930s and became a huge corrupt wine monster run by political appointees who knew nothing about making wine, and less about running a business.

Charlie O’Malley discovers Mendoza is no longer just history.

Photos courtesy: AMP Cavas, Tapiz, Trivento, Roggerone, Don M. Villafañe, El Enemigo, Finca Agostino and Mariana Gomez Rus

25

To pay wages it would dump cheap plonk on the market and it eventually tottered towards bankruptcy in the 1990s. The winery is still there, and looks like an abandoned oil refinery. An inauspicious end to such a star performer.And so Maipu faded. Even when the wine boom returned in the early 20th century, the focus was to the south and west, to the higher regions of Lujan de Cuyo and Valle de Uco where altitude and malbec became the new buzzwords. Accepted wisdom among wine aficionados was that if you wanted quality you headed for the hills, and leave low lying Maipu to the budget bikers and tetrapak lovers.

But those budget bikers were on the right track as they experienced the charming Old World vibe of wineries such as Rutini and DiTommasso. Trapiche, the natural heir to Giol and the largest winery to South America, refurbished its main building and created a prize winning wine tourist facility. Another wine giant Trivento opened its doors and vineyards to the discerning wine tourist, many of them on bike. Family owned operations like Tempus Alba, Domaine St. Diego and Carinae attracted a steady flow of wine lovers, the former making wine overseen by Michel Rolland. Zuccardi became the first to open seven days a week and offer what is now a famous winery lunch.

Maipu is not just about history. Young, innovative winemakers like AMP have started food and wine pairings at Casa Coupage. Club Tapiz have combined fine dining with olive oil tastings. Alejandro Vigil of Catean Zapata fame has begun a bohemian culinary wine adventure at his idiosyncratic winery El Enemigo. Cecchin have become leaders in organic wine production.New operators like Finca Agostino and Villafañe have invested time, money and expertise in creating wine that rivals the best from Lujan de Cuyo and Uco Valley. No longer is Maipu the ugly sister but should be an essential stop on every wine lovers Mendoza itinerary.

26

DInInG oUTMENDOZA CITY

PatronaThis cosy Mendocino restaurant has a casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona attracts a crowd full of locals every night of the week who come for the honest, traditional Argentine food and friendly and warm atmosphere. Classic dishes like the hearty empanadas and sizzling asado are worthy and popular fare but the real star here is Patrona’s warm, open sandwiches We recommend the artichoke hearts and goats cheese; roasted vegetables with white wine and honey; or the more traditional pick of rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent wine list and some satisfying desserts complete the gastronomy experience but the key to Patrona is the cosy way that they really make you feel at home. Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656. Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm - 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal cost: $150/(including starter, main dish, dessert+a glass of wine)

Grill QLocated in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill Q serves up traditional regional cuisine at a five star level. Sit back in the chic parilla style restaurant amongst the cowhides and local artwork, pick from one of the many Mendocinean wines, make your order and watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. They are famous for their grilled meats and gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty Argentine classics such as ‘locro’ - a stew which hails back to the early independence days. Save room for the stunning desserts. The Hyatt’s other restaurant, Bistro M, offers a more gourmet evening menu and the most exuberant ‘lunch menu’ in town. With a gorgeous buffet spread of starters like squid and basil stew, crispy calamari with cool gazpacho and mezze style tapas, you’ll need to bring your stretchy waistbands to fit in the hearty and flavourful main options and the sumptuous dessert buffet on top. Put aside an hour or two for this tempting lunch or make your way here in the evening to try the Mediterranean inspired dishes including delicious pasta, fresh fish and some great cuts of meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225. Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro M Executive Menu $280 with starter buffet, main course, dessert buffet and glass of wine.

El MercaditoWith an attractive fairy lit patio and terrace outside, this is the perfect spot for some lunch time sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by three friends, El Mercadito has a cool vibe and relaxed music making it a favorite. opened recently by three friends, El Mercadito is offering something a little bit different to Mendoza. With a cool vibe, relaxed music and attractive waiting staff, this is quickly becoming a favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite to eat or evening cocktails. opening in the morning for healthy breakfasts and antioxidant juices, El Mercadito stays open throughout the siesta with its light menu of sandwiches, big salads and some Argentine classic meals. Chow down to big healthy salads like the ‘Langoustine’ with huge juicy prawns, fresh avocado and green leaves or tuck into one of their big toasted sandwiches like smoked salmon and cream cheese, or jamon crudo and arugula served with chunky chips and homemade BBQ sauce. As the sun goes down make sure to try out one of their yummy strawberry mojitos! El Mercadito, Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847. Avg. meal price: $ 150. Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961, te: 4962267.

La MarchigianaAs the first Italian restaurant in Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty of history and traditional recipes to whet any nonna`s appetite. Maria Teresa Corradini de Barbera`s family restaurant started off with only six hearty Italian dishes but has grown into a popular local fixture which is always busy despite its curious lack of ambience. The pasta is the best thing here, maintaining original recipes from over 60 years ago; we recommend the huge stuffed ravioli. Check out the Brad Pitt photo for celebrity credentials. La Marchigiana, Patricias Mendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg. meal price: $170 Anna BistroAnna Bistro has been an important restaurant on Mendoza’s food scene since it opened 8 years ago, however that doesn’t stop it from renovating itself each year. This year Jerome and his team have started smoking their own salmon and cheese to add a bit more flavour to some dishes and you can try the rich salmon on delicious brioche and go the whole hog with a pot of delicious steaming, garlicky prawns. Along with a handful of salmon dishes there are a host of different foods on the menu including classic steak, rich lamb, creamy pastas and lots of lighter options including big salads, sharing platters and vegetarian dishes. While lunch and dinner is still its main game, the beautiful gardens and restaurant are open for breakfast from 8am offering unending treats from their own French patisserie and the late afternoon is perfect for sipping your way through the extensive cocktail list or take your pick from the arm long wine list. Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425 1818. Everyday 8am till late. Avg. meal cost: $190 pesos.

Grill Q

Anna Bistro

27

OUTSIDE CITY CENTER

Terruño - Club TapizTucked away among the sprawling Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort and its lovely restaurant Terruño. This handsome eatery boasts an elegant interior, excellent service and a wine list that is sure to please even the most finicky of wine snobs. Their chef compiles a tantalising menu that includes top notch lomo steaks, a rotating range of salads and a savory ginger/honey chicken dish that is second to none. If you like what you see and taste, book a room in one of their seven Renaissance-style villas. Don’t forget to call ahead for dinner reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú. AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com. Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner, Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until 12am. Avg. meal cost: $385 pesos.

Katharina Restaurant. Suspended between Heaven & Earth, in an idyllic setting that resembles a zen garden, Katharina Restaurant at the luxurious Entre Cielos Resort is now open for breakfast, lunch, tea time or dinner. Argentinian classics are revisited with an international touch and all the ingredients are organic and locally produced with lots of vegetarian and gluten-free options. Creamy ginger and pumpkin soup, succulent sweetbreads with malbec jam and a very tender grilled lamb with orange flavored chimichurri. A talented mixologist is on hand to serve Prickly Pear Cocktail made with the red fruits of cactus grown on the property. Thursday and Sundays are asado nights and cooking cooking classes are available conducted by the chef [email protected] /Entre Cielos – Guardia Vieja 1998 - Vistalba / +54 261 498 33 77

Finca AgostinoElegance, history and the perfect marriage of food and wine is what you’ll experience by dining at the restaurant of Finca Agostino winery. Ancient vines with stems as thick as tree trunks look in upon a light filled, stylish interior with enough space to dance a tango. The overall vibe is polished and handsome. The food is equally majestic - 5 courses of well thought, imaginative dishes that are paired exquisitely with all the wineries wines - often explained and described by the chef Sergio Guardia. The menu is seasonal with much of the ingredients freshly picked from the property’s organic vegetable garden and orchard. Creamy pumpkin soup was the starter when I dined there and the main course a choice between prime beef or Mendoza kid goat. If you have time make sure to take a tour of the property which includes an art gallery and replica plaza of Plaza España in Mendoza city. Cookery classes are available where you get to pick your own ingredients and prepare and cook bread on an open fire, empanadas, humitas and asado. Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu. tel 2615249358. Avg. meal price $400 pesos.www.fincaagostino.com

Los NegritosRight in the middle of Las Vegas (in Potrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza) this restaurant stems from a story of a family who came to live in here one of the first weekend houses constructed in the area. They named their home ‘los negritos’ a nickname of their two young children. Many years later, one of the ‘negritos’ (Enrique) decided to leave the bustle of the city, moved to the mountains and opened a restaurant with his wife , in Las Vegas. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner every weekend and on

La Marchigiana

Los Negritos

public holidays and the cuisine is flavourful and typically Argentine with stews (such as Tomaticán and mondongo) milanesas, humita and homemade pasta - many of the recipes used are old family recipes. The restaurant has been recognized as part of the ‘gastronomical route’ and is noted for its quality of cooking, architecture and landscape.Avg: $135. Los olmos ST, Las Vegas, Potrerillos. (261)155697431. [email protected]. Fri to Sun and holidays. From 12pm to 4 pm / GPS: S 33013370 - W 69272293

Katharina

28

LUJAN DE CUYO

Terrazas de los AndesThe fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina is a beautifully restored bodega with well-appointed tasting room. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Clos de ChacrasCharming boutique operation with nice history. A five minute walk from Chacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706. Monte Libano s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www.closdechacras.com.ar

Luigi BoscaThe Arizu dynasty are the royal family of Argentine wine and their seat of operations is a handsome and elegant 110-year old winery. Classical architecture, ancient atmospheric cellars and rich wines such as the Finca Las nobles range make for a fascinating visit. (0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo. www.luigibosca.com.ar

RenacerThis Chilean-owned winery creates the label Punto Final. Small, modern operation with tour that includes a hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or 261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

KaikenThis rustic 80 year-old winery houses a new venture by the prestigious Chilean winery Montes. Big and powerful wines, destined for fame. TEL (0261) 4761111-14 InT 113 / Movile (0261-153 530 789) /Movile (0261-155 509 453) Roque Saenz Peña 5516, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo. open from Mon to Sat from 8 AM to 6:30 PM/SUn and holidays from 9 AM to 1 PM. www.kaikenwin es.com

Catena ZapataShowcase winery designed like a Mayan temple overlooking vineyards and the Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www.catenawines.com

Alta VistaMasterful mix of modern and traditional. Tasting includes distinctive Torrontes or single vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com

THE WInERY GUIDENieto SenetinerLocated in a beautiful old winery in Chacras, Senetiner was founded in 1888 and makes a great range of wines and sparkling wines and offers horseback riding in the vineyards and asado style lunches. (261) 496 9099, Guardia Vieja S/n, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar

MelipalGreat Malbec and gourmet lunches make Melipal one of the most exclusive wineries to visit. (0261) 4790202. R.n.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar

MendelAn old style winery ran by one of Argentina’s most famous winemaker dynasties the De La Motta family. (0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.mendel.com.ar

Viña CobosAmerican winemaker Paul Hobbs was one of the first to recognise the possibilities of Malbec and his Bramare label is possibly one of the best examples of this varietal. (0261) 479 0130. R.n. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. www.vinacobos.com

TapizGreat wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end restaurant Terruño and an instructive wine tour including barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.tapiz.com

Belasco de BaquedanoGleaming modern facility with fascinating aroma room and restaurant with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.belascomalbec.com

PiattelliA lovely family owned winery done in a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch on a deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine: oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123. Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.piattellivineyards.com

CruzatA boutique traditional sparkling wine producer with gorgeous bubbles that can be enjoyed from their terrace overlooking vines. (261) 5242290, Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com

Dante RobinoFounded in 1920, an atmospheric old-style winery with a modernist, light-filled tasting room with excellent view of mountains and vines. (0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejón Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com

SeptimaA beautifully designed winery with clear views of the mountains and a large terrace used for sunset wine events after 6.30pm on Thursdays. owned by the Spanish experts in sparkling wine, Codorniu, they make fab sparkling wine under label Maria. (261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

BonfantiA lovely winery in a pastoral setting. Up close and personal tours with the owners themselves and a tasting room set amidst the vines. (0261) 488 0595. Terrada 2024, Lujan de Cuyo.

Pulenta EstateCool minimalist design and rich complex wines make this a winery with finesse and style. Fav. Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426. Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. www.pulentaestate.com

Nortonold-style cellars contrast with a high-tech production line. Tank and barrel tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays are popular with the locals. (0261) 490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Luján de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Benegas LynchRich history and richer wines. Lovely old bodega with lots of character. Fav. Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.bodegabenegas.com

Navarro CorreasThe closest winery to Mendoza city, easily accessible navarro Correas is a modern winery with great sparkling wines and fun tasting options. (0261) 4597916. San Francisco del Monte 1555, Godoy Cruz. www.ncorreas.com

CaelumModern, medium size winery on the main road to Chile just before the mountains and has a nice family feel to it. Fav. Wine: Rosado. (261)156992890. R.n.7 km 1060, Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

LUJAN DE CUYO

29

Restaurant

Lodging

Driving time from Mendoza City

Art Gallery

LOcAtIONS reFereNceSreFereNceS

Luján de Cuyo

Maipú

Mendoza City

San Martín

Valle de Uco

ChandonThe original foreign investor, French-owned Chandon has been making great sparkling wines in Mendoza since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del PlataArgentina´s most famous female winemaker Susana Balbo is creating some rich and complex wines in the heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

Lagardeowner of the oldest white wine in South America. Try the hand-crafted sparkling wine made from 100 year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27. San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond. Luján de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

Ruca MalenExcellent food, great guiding and first-class wines. The pairings over lunch make for an unforgettable culinary experience. (0261) 5537164 - 2614540974. R.n.7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegarucamalen.com

DeceroAttractive, modern facility with spectacular views of the mountains from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Estrella de los Andeson a leafy road in the middle of Lujan, this winery has a cool, retro diner with well presented and tasty Argentine dishes that won’t break your bank. open all day and a relaxed atmosphere. olavarria 225, Perdriel, (261) 464 9190. www.bodegaestrelladelosandes.com

La Madrid/DuriguttiTucked away in a restored winery in Las Compuertas, you can taste single vineyard and terroir blend wines from both of these ambitious projects from under one roof. Walk-ins welcome.Roque Sáenz Peña 8450, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo. (261) 562 9134/35.www.durigutti.com www.lamadridwines.com

Carmelo PattiMendoza’s most famous garagista. Carmelo Patti himself is often there to show you around (in Spanish). Fav. Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin 2614, Luján de Cuyo.

Familia CassoneA charming, family owned winery in a beautiful setting. Try the jasmine tinted rosé amidst the pastoral splendour of the owner’s expansive garden. Anchorena y Terrada. (261) 424 6301. www.familiacassone.com.ar

CasarenaA beautiful mix of old and new, this winery mixes tradition and modernity in an old style winery with a super modern restaurant with splendid views of the vineyarsd and mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel. www.casarena.com. Tel 2616967848.

VistalbaTasting room where one entire wall is a subterranean cross section of the actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. www.carlospulentawines.com

Ojo de VinoA modern winery in Agrelo, notable not just for exceptional wines such as the Malo Blend, but also the fact its owner is the Godftaher of Techno, Swiss musician Dieter Meier. The winery restaurant ojo de Agua, has a delighful setting next to a vineyard lake.Bajo Las Cumbres S/n. Agrelo. Tel 2615731688. [email protected]

Achaval FerrerModern boutique close to Mendoza riverbed. Big concentrated wines. (0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com

DoliumA completely underground winery with innovative design and top notch Malbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km 30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

TrapicheArgentina’s biggest winery is a mix of old and new, traditional and industrial, and has the old train tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maipú. www.trapiche.com.ar

El Enemigoone of Argentina’s most talented winemakers Alejandro Vigil opens the door to this colorful and unconventional boutique operation. Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. Tel.261 697 4213

Finca AgostinoElegant and picturesque winery with ancient vines and walled orchard. offer superb lunches and cookery classes.Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu. Tel. 2615249358. www.fincaagostino.com

MAIpú

30

THE WInERY GUIDE

FlichmanSteeped in history and tradition. Charming, pink-hued, colonial-style bodega, set in the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu. (0261) 497 2039. Munives 800, Barrancas, Maipú. www.flichman.com

Familia Di Tommassoofficially the second oldest winery in Mendoza and still run by Argentine hands. Their charming and rustic restaurant looks onto the vineyard, just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829. Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www.familiaditommaso.com

Familia ZuccardiA professional, far-sighted operation. Attractive restaurant amidst the vines, famous for its asado-style lunches and generous wine pourings. (0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com

Cepas ElegidasMaking real ‘vinos de autor’, US born Brennan Firth makes his limited production wines in a small winery in Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high end wines, a visit and tasting is with the winemaker himself. To visit Cepas Elegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

AMP CavaPremium wines made from different terroirs but all by renowned winemaker Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings and a close proximity to the city make it a recommended visit. Gómez Adriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - (261) 4813201/4668048

Rutini / La RuralWell-stocked museum with invaluable antiques like cowhide wine presses and buckets. Giant oak tanks stand in large, cavernous halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maipú. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

CecchinA family winery using organic and biodynamic principles where you can see the entire process from the beautiful green vineyards to the minimal intervention winery. (261) 497 6707, MA Saez 626, Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

CarinaeSmall, charming, French-owned winery offering personal tours and well-honed wines. Surrounded by vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú www.carinaevinos.com

Tempus AlbaA fine modern winery set in the rural lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop terrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 481 3501. Perito Moreno 572, Maipú. www.tempusalba.com

LopezPopular, old-style winery with two museums on the wine. Restaurant offers gourmet cuisine with a panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554. ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez, Maipú. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar. Facebook/Bodegas Lopez oficial

AndelunaThe old-world style tasting room looks upon dramatic views of vineyards against mountains. (02622) 423 226 Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. www. andeluna.com

AtamisqueThis Uco winery has some great white wines, a unique stony roof and they breed their own trout which is served in the charming restaurant.(0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

La AzulSimple, small production winery with not so simple Malbecs and a small traditional restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com

Finca La Celiaone of the valley’s oldest wineries. They conduct excellent tours and tastings. (02622)

451 010. Av. de Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio Bustos, San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar

SalenteinDesigned like a temple to wine, this ultra-concept winery includes a modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in the Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.com

Clos de los 7In the heart of gorgeous Vista Flores, you can visit premium French owned wineries Monteviejo, Rolland, Diamandes and Cuvelier de los andes in one visit for tastings, horseriding, art and lunch. (0261) 156 687680. www.clos7.com.ar

O. FournierMost architecturally innovative winery with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent lunches in the modernist visitor center. (02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos. www.ofournier.com

Gimenez RiiliA brand new family run affair, part of the exciting Vines of Mendoza project. This is a modern winery in a stunning setting. 0261-156317105/ 0261-153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com

Bodega MasiFascinating Italian job in the heart of Tupungato with commanding views and commanding wines, especiially the Amarone inspired varietals and unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. www.masitupungato.com

Domaine BousquetAnother French transplant to the Andean foothills of Valle de Uco, this sizeable operation produces high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot and Malbec and now has a popular restaurant serving excellent tasting menu lunches. Ruta 89. Tupungato. www.domainebousquet.com Tel 2615274048

The Vines of MendozaThere are not many wineries that can claim 300 different labels, but then again The Vines is no ordinary winery. It is best described as a cooperative of wine lovers around the World who have all bought a vineyard plot each in Uco Valley and are making their own wine in a central winery with experts such as Santiago Achaval overseeing. Add to this a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley will never be the same again.Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900

Trivento Located in the bucolic splendour of southern Maipu, Trivento is owned by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This modern winery has a beautiful deck set amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle excursions within the property. Ruta 60 y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maipú, Mendoza. Tel: 0261 413-7156. www.trivento.com

Don Manuel VillafaneModern winery in the wide open vineyards of southern Maipu. Intense, complex wines.Ruta 60 s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipu. Tel. 2615083067. www.dmvwines.com

VALLE DE UCO

25

31

INSIDE MENDOZA CITYThe list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

MATIAS DOWN TOWNVictorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from is enough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners. Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain starting in Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as San Martin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendoza’s version is right in the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off or some serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198.

ANTARES BARAristides street would not be very complete without its own micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer in this respect with bars located across the country since before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar. Aristides 153.

BARSVELVETThis hip new club and bar is located 15mins away from Mendoza in Chacras de Coria. Boasting good cocktails and great music, spread over a lounge bar and downstairs club room, this is the best ticket in town for good times on a Friday and Saturday night. Mision Alfoz, Viamonte 4961, Chacras de Coria (261) 467 433.

BELIEVE IRISH pUBone of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. on the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-video montages or football games. Monday night is International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.believeirishpub.com.ar

BLACK SHEEpJust off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like! Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

33

USEFUL InFoRMATIonAIRpORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIppING WINE ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIpU The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below) where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXpATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

Wine Republic N75

Documents

Transcript of Wine Republic N75