Wine PP Part 1

7/29/2019 Wine PP Part 1

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IN THE VINEYARD: VITICULTURE

Viticulture refers to the applied practicesand technologies of growing grapes in thevineyard.

Just about all of the classic wines of theworld are produced from the vine species, vitisvinifera, such as Chardonnay or Pinot Noir.

Historically, grape vines were planted where

the terrain was too poor to permit other cropsto be grown. Ironically, it is poor soil, in whichthe vine has to struggle, that often producesthe best wine.


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CLIMATESunshine, relative heat and cold, and rainfall alldirectly affect the ripening of grapes.

Vitis viniferacan grow in many different climates,but the vine needs a minimum average temperatureof 50F/10C to grow successfully. Wines from cool climates are usually lower in

alcohol and lighter in body than wines from warmergrowing regions. Cool climate wine regions arenormally closely identified with white and sparklingwines; warmer regions are best known for reds.


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CLIMATE

Pinot Noir is one of a handful of red

grapes that thrive in cooler climates.

Grape growing regions with quite hot or

quite cool temperatures tend to be close towater. Rivers, lakes, and oceans moderatethe extremes of temperature in a vineyard.


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TERROIR

There are several factors that determine

what makes one vineyard great and another

merely mediocre. The combination of

climate, soil, exposure to the sun, and the

human factor - the care taken by growers

in the vineyard - is described as terroir: aFrench word that links all the conditions

under which the vine grows.


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CHALLENGES TO GRAPE GROWERS

Growers face many challenges, includingplant diseases (assorted viruses and

mildews, for example) and serious damagefrom insects.

Phylloxera is an insect louse that has

attacked the vineyards of most wine-growing nations (although not Chile andmost of Australia), destroying entirevineyards and wine regions in its wake.


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CHALLENGES TO GRAPE GROWERS The method most often used to combatphylloxera is to graft vitis viniferavines onto

various American rootstocks, which arephylloxera-resistant.

Another option is to plant "hybrids, whichare a genetic cross of vinifera and native vines.

These hybrids - Seyval Blanc and Baco Noir arebut two examples - are genetically engineeredto resist phylloxera, plant diseases, anddamage due to climate extremes.


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CHALLENGES TO GRAPE GROWERS

Pierces Disease has been a major problem inCalifornia vineyards. Caused by a bacterium, and

carried by an insect - a leaf hopper - the glassy-winged sharpshooter, Pierces Disease can wipe outentire vineyards.

The insect eats the leaves of an infected vine, andthen carries the bacterium to the next vine.

Pierces Disease thrives in warm climates and moistsoils.


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MEASURING SUGARS: THE BRIX SCALE

As harvest approaches, the grower and/orwinemaker must constantly measure the amount ofsugar in the grapes or grape must (juice or juiceand skins). Sugar content represents potentialalcohol in the finished wine.

In North America the Brix scale is used tomeasure the ratio of sugar to water in the berriesor must. The ratio of Brix to potential alcohol inthe wine is roughly 1.65:1 (for example, 23 Brixwill make a dry wine of about 13-13.5% alcohol).


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IN THE WINERY: VINICULTURE

Viniculture is the science and practice ofmaking wine.

Fermentation is the conversion of sugar

by yeast to ethyl alcohol. Carbon dioxideand heat are also produced during theprocess, but are released into the air.

Selecting the appropriate yeast - natural,proprietary, or commercial - allows thewine-maker to affect the flavor and bodyof the wine.


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Yeast need oxygen to ferment the sugarin the grape must, and yeasts will notsurvive extremes in temperature - hot or

cold. Yeasts will usually die at about 15.5%alcohol, because the yeasts will not be ableto absorb any more sugar.


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There are basically four ways to arrestfermentation:

1. The fermenting must reaches about 15.5%

alcohol, and the yeasts cannot absorb anymore sugar.

2. The fermenting must turns all of its sugar into

alcohol producing a DRY wine; there are nomore sugars to feed the yeasts andfermentation stops. For example, grape mustwith a total sugar concentration of 20 Brixwill create a dry wine of about 11% alcohol.


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3. The winemaker intercedes by chilling the must -often in a stainless steel tank surrounded by arefrigerated jacket. When the fermenting must ischilled to about 20F, fermentation stops, and theyeast and some other solids in the must are removed

quickly by centrifuge or more slowly by passive sterilefiltration.

4. The winemaker intercedes by adding a high-alcoholgrape spirit (such as brandy) to the fermenting must.

The fermentation of the base wine stops, as theaddition of the spirit puts the alcohol level in the mustat more than 15.5% alcohol. This process is used tomake fortified wines, such as Sherry (mostly dry) andPort (almost always sweet).


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Fermentation will continue until the yeasts in thefermenting must consume all the sugar; the wine isdry.

If there is residual sugar in the wine after

fermentation, the wine may be semi-dry or sweet,depending on how much residual sugar there is inthe finished wine.

One way to produce sweetness in wines fermented

in stainless steel tanks is to chill down the tanks sothe yeast cannot convert all the sugar into alcohol.A wine of very low alcohol - less than 10% - andsome sweetness may be produced this way.


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STAINLESS STEEL OR BARREL FERMENTATION?Wines fermented and aged in stainless steel (oraged in bottles) tend to be lighter in flavor andtexture than wines fermented and aged in small(about 60 gallons) oak barrels.

Barrels are charred, or toasted. New oak barrelswith heavy toast will impart more wood tanninsthan older oak barrels with a lighter toast.

Winemakers often choose French oak fromspecific forests (Alliers, Nevers, Troncais, etc.),or American oak for their barrels. American oaktends to produce a wine with a more pronouncedspiciness in the flavor.


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MALOLACTIC FERMENTATIONVirtually all red wines (but not most ross) undergo malolacticfermentation. With white wines, the process is a choice made bythe winemaker to create a style of wine that is richer, creamier,smoother, and more complex.

Malolactic fermentation is a bacterial fermentation, convertingmalic acid to lactic acid. This secondaryfermentation has fourmajor effects on wine: (1) it changes a harsh acid to a smoothacid, making the wine softer, while diminishing the essentialfresh, fruity, and simple qualities of the wine; (2) it lowersoverall acidity; (3) it increases biological stability in the wine by

assuring that malolactic fermentation will not take place in thebottle; (4) it increases the sensory quality, complexity, andflavor of the wine.

Some winemakers choose partial malolactic fermentation toachieve balance in the flavor profile of the finished wine.


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CHAPTALIZATION, ENRICHMENT, AND ACIDIFICATION

Where legally permitted, Chaptalization is the additionof sugar to grape must in order to increase alcohol, notsweetness.

Enrichment is the addition of grape must, orconcentrated grape must, in order to raise alcohol levels.

Acidification is the addition of acids to a wine. Tartaric,citric, malic, and lactic are four acids found in wine.

Wines that are high in acidity refresh the palate andpromote saliva production, encouraging appetite for boththe wine and its food accompaniments. An example of ahigh-acid white is Sauvignon Blanc. Pinot Noir is anexample of a high-acid red.


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CLARIFYING THE WINE:FINING AND FILTERING

To clarify a wine, it is racked; transferred from onebarrel or tank to the next and then fined. To fine thewine, a colloidal agent (such as egg whites) is used toforce suspended solids to the bottom of the tank orbarrel.

To filter the wine it is forced through a porous

medium to remove any suspended solids. Someproducers choose not to filter, or minimally filter theirwines, as they feel that filtering strips the wine ofsubtle flavors and negatively impacts its overallcharacter.


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BLENDING THE WINE A finished wine may be a blend of different grapetypes, vineyards, regions, and/or vintages.

In most cases, if more than one grape type is used(a Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend for example),finished wines made from each grape type areblended together. A rare exception to this rule isfield blending, in which the juice or must of the

different varietals ferment together. Most still wines designate a vintage date on thelabel, while most - but certainly not all - sparklingwines are not vintage dated (non-vintage or NV).


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WHITE WINES Color in grapes is found only in skins, the juice isclear. While red grapes can produce red, ros, or whitewines, white grapes can only produce white wines. White wines made from grapes that grow in coolclimates display a green tinge and a pale straw color.

White wines fermented and/or aged in oak barrels willdisplay a gold color that will darken with age. Oakbarrels also add tannins and body to white wines.Tannins are a preservative that extend the life of awine.

Some wineries may choose to make finished winesfrom a blend of oak fermented and stainless steelfermented base wines.Batonnageis the stirring of thelees -expired yeastcells - to produce a richer, more complex white wine.


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SWEET WHITE WINES Late Harvest wines are made from grapes pickedlater in the season, after the normal harvest dates.The extra ripeness (higher sugars) may be used tocreate a sweet, dessert-style wine.

Icewine/Eiswein is made from frozen grapes,pressed so that the ice is separated from the sugars.This low-alcohol wine is both intensely sweet andintensely tart, due to extremely high acidity.

Botrytis cinerea (noblerot) is a beneficial moldthat pierces the grape skin, allowing water toevaporate, and concentrating sugars. These wines arealways quite sweet and generally have lower aciditythan Icewine.


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RED WINES FRUIT TANNINS in red wines are sourced primarilyfrom grape skins, while WOOD TANNINS are found inoak barrels. A red wine with high tannins will make atasters mouth feel dry.

Because of grape tannins, a full-bodied red wine willalways be more powerful on the palate than a full-bodied white wine.

Certain red grape types, such as Cabernet Sauvignon

and Syrah, have thick skins (and higher potential tanninlevels), while other red varietals, such as Pinot Noir,have thinner skins (and lower potential tannin levels).


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RED WINESPrior to undergoing conventional yeast fermentation, CarbonicMaceration may be used to produce dry, fruity, red wines meantfor early consumption. During carbonic maceration, an anaerobicenvironment is created by pumping carbon dioxide into a sealedcontainer filled with whole grape clusters. The carbon dioxidegas permeates through the grape skins and begins to stimulate

fermentation at an intracellular level. Carbonic macerationferments most of the juice while it is still inside the grape.Grapes at the bottom of the container are crushed by gravityand undergo conventional fermentation. The resulting wine isfruity with very low tannins. The wine is ready to drink quicklybut lacks the structure for long-term aging. These wines may beserved with a slight chill to enhance their fresh and fruitycharacter. A good example of a wine produced by carbonicmaceration is Beaujolais, a French wine made from Gamaygrapes.


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RED WINESThere are several techniques used during the winemaking process toproduce more complex, age-worthy red wines. Some of these techniquesare basic, some are new and quite high-tech.Basic techniques to produce powerful red wines include:

growing high-quality vinifera clones; using older vines that provide a low yield in the vineyard and more

complexity in the wines flavor; warmer fermentation temperatures;punchingdown or pumpingover the cap of skins that forms on thesurface of the wine; adding presswine, with a higher concentration of color, flavor, andtannin;

bleeding or saigne; drawing off juice prior to fermentation,leaving the remaining juice with a high skin-to-pulp ratio, and the

finished press wine with more color, body, and flavor.using new oak barrels to intensify tannins and the overall flavor profileof the wine.


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RED WINESWHAT IS SEDIMENT?

Sediment is a deposit formed mostly bytannins and pigments over time. As the

sediment precipitates over the course ofyears, the harsh tannins in a red winesoften, and the wine develops moreharmonious flavors.

To avoid pouring sediment, which is quitebitter on the palate, into a wine glass, olderred wines are often decanted.


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SPARKLING WINES

NOTE: ALL CHAMPAGNE IS SPARKLINGWINE, BUT NOT ALL SPARKLINGWINE ISCHAMPAGNE!

CHAMPAGNE is the name of a famous wineregion of France, an appellation. For that reason,

only the sparkling wines made here can properly be

called Champagne.

The best method for producing sparkling wines isnamed for the Champagne region: the mthode

champenoise(champagne method).


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SPARKLING WINESMTHODE CHAMPENOISE/CHAMPAGNE METHOD

The mthode champenoise is time-consuming, exacting, andexpensive, and is reserved for true Champagnes and other high-quality sparklers.

a synonym for the application of this method is the phrase,Fermented in ThisBottle.

The first step in the process is to make table wines - the basewines, most often blended to reflect the style of the producer.These wines are often blends of different grape types,vineyards, and vintages (unless a vintage-dated sparkling wine isthe final product). It is possible that the finished base wine maybe made from a blend of dozens of separate wines.


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Next, the wine is transferred to the final bottle (achampagne bottle), and yeast and sugar are added to thebase wine to create a second fermentation in the bottle. Thebottle is sealed with a temporary cork or a crown cap,

similar to a metal beer cap, and so the fermentation in thebottle occurs under pressure, creating less than two percentmore alcohol and millions of carbon dioxide bubbles.

After fermentation in the bottle is complete, the wine isaged on its lees - expired yeast cells - to develop morecomplex flavors and aromatics. This process is known asautolysis.

By daily gentle turning, lifting, and shaking of the bottle,yeast and lees sediment is collected in the bottle neck. Thispractice is known as riddling.


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Once riddling is complete, the sediment in the bottle isdisgorged. The bottle is placed upside down on a conveyor

belt, and the bottle neck is immersed in a freezing brineor in liquid nitrogen. The plug of sediment, now collectedin the bottle neck, is frozen. The temporary cork or crowncap is removed, and the pressure in the bottle forces thesediment plug out of the bottle. The wine is clear and dry,

most often about 12% alcohol. Finally a dosage of sugar and wine is added to adjust therelative dryness or sweetness of the finished sparklingwine.


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Champagne and other high-quality sparkling wines arenamed for their level of sweetness. For example:

Brut, Veuve Clicquot, Champagne, France NV

Extra Brut or Ultra Brut is the driest style.

Brut is dry, and is by far the most popular style ofmthode champenoisesparkling wine in the world.

Extra Dry

is, in fact, a semi-dry style of

bubbly.

Sec, Demi-Sec, and Doux are, respectively, semi-sweet, sweet, and very sweet. Demi-Sec is the mostpopular sweet style of sparkling wine.


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SPARKLING WINESOTHER PRODUCTION METHODSWhile the worlds finest sparkling wines always employ

the mthode champenoise, there are two othermethods of producing sparkling wine:

1. The transfer method: identical to the mthodechampenoise up to and including the secondfermentation in the bottle. To save time, labor, andmoney, however, the sparkling wine is removed from itsbottle and placed in a pressurized tank. The wine isfiltered by centrifuge, the dosage is added to the tankto determine relative dryness or sweetness, and thewine is pumped back into bottles.

A synonym for this process is Fermented in TheBottle.


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SPARKLING WINESOTHER PRODUCTION METHODS

While the worlds finest sparkling wines always employthe mthode champenoise, there are two othermethods of producing sparkling wine:

2. The Charmat or bulk method: Still wine is placed in apressurized tank. Sugar and yeast are added to createthe second fermentation, which creates bubbles. Thesparkling wine is aged, filtered, and clarified in thetank, and the finished wine is bottled.

The Charmat method is suited to subtly sweet, fresh,fruity sparkling wines with peachy aromas (such as Astior Prosecco, both from Italy).


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TASTING WINE

APPEARANCE / COLOR OF THE WINE White wines with a watery to pale green colorare light in body.

a gold color in a white wine may indicate a morefull-bodied, and/or oak-fermented or oak aged,and/or older dry wine. A deep gold color may alsobe a sign of botrytis in a sweet wine.

Red wines with a translucent light red/lightpurple color may be lighter in body, and ready todrink sooner than those that are opaque, which arefuller in body and more likely to age longer.


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TASTING WINE

SMELL: THE NOSE OF THE WINEWhen tasting wine, aroma refers to the smell ofthe grape in a young wine, or a wine meant for earlydrinking.

Bouquet refers to secondary and tertiaryaromatics that some wines (mostly reds, but alsosome whites) will develop over time. These wines aremeant to age.

Generally speaking, New World wines (CaliforniaCabernet Sauvignon, for example) tend to have moreobvious fruit smells, while classic Old World wines(such as Bordeaux) tend to offer more earthy smells.


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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT DAVISAROMA WHEEL

( PAGE 97, EXPLORING WINE)


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TASTING WINETASTE: WINE ON THE PALATE

When tasting wine, we try to discern multiple flavors on the palate, includingfruits, spices, vegetables, and flowers, among many other flavors.

When tasting, we should also assess:

the relative sweetness level in the wine;

the relative acidity of the wine. Wines with high acidity levels refresh thepalate and produce saliva;

the relative alcohol level in the wine;the oak influence, if any, in the wine;

the presence of tannins, if any, in the wine. Tannins create a drying, astringent(NOT BITTER)sensation in the mouth. Oak tannins are usually sensed on the roofof the mouth, while skin tannins are usually sensed on the gums and the cheeks.


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TASTING WINE

TASTE: WINE ON THE PALATE

The body of a wine refers to its intensityand impact on the palate. Wines are most

often described as being light, light-to-medium, medium, medium-to-full, or full.

The finish of a wine refers to the length of

time the wines flavor persists on the palate.Wines are described as having a short (lessthan 15 seconds), medium (15 to 30 seconds),or long(more than 30 seconds) finish.


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DIAGRAM OF TONGUE SENSITIVITY(PAGE 99, EXPLORING WINE)


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THE 4 MAJOR WHITE GRAPES

ChardonnayChardonnay is the most popular varietal in the world. Almostevery country that makes wine produces Chardonnay. Althoughthe grape grows best in cool climates and in soils that are rich incalcium, there is plenty of wine produced from Chardonnay

grapes grown in warm climates and fertile soils.A well-made Chardonnay will contain flavors of apple and citrus,and will be quite crisp and refreshing on the palate when thegrapes are grown in a cool climate. Chardonnay from warmergrowing regions might be rich in tropical notes, like pineappleand mango.

Chardonnay is often oak-fermented and/or oak-aged. Thesewines take on sweet vanilla and buttered toast flavors. Notethat not all Chardonnay is exposed to oak, and there is a growingtrend towards well-made unoaked Chardonnay.


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ChardonnayClassic Growing Regions:Old WorldFRANCE

Burgundy: Here, Chardonnay is the grape. Producers ofunoaked Chardonnay look to Burgundys Chablis region as a

model, and producers of oaked Chardonnay look to BurgundysCte de Beaune region as their prototype.

Champagne: In this cool-climate region, Chardonnay is animportant constituent of this famous sparkling wine, and isone of only three grapes permitted in the finished wine.

Chardonnay can also fly solo in Blanc de BlancsChampagne.Other Old World regions: Chardonnay grows successfullythroughout Europe, including Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany,Austria, and Greece. China is growing a lot of Chardonnay, too.


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ChardonnayClassic Growing Regions: New WorldTHE UNITED STATES

California: Often grown as a cash crop in the states warmerregions, fine Chardonnay is produced in cooler regions, such as

Carneros, Russian River Valley, and Anderson Valley. Most CaliforniaChardonnay is fermented or aged in oak, but there is some unoakedChardonnay produced as well. The grape is an important constituentin the blend for fine sparkling wines, too.

Other US States: Chardonnay is planted in just about every wineregion of the United States, with fine wines produced in the Pacific

Northwest (Idaho, Oregon and Washington State), the Northeast(New York State and others), the Southeast (particularly Virginia),and the Southwest (especially Texas and New Mexico).

Canada produces some fine cool-climate Chardonnay wines, too.


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ChardonnayClassic Growing Regions: New WorldTHE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE:

Australia and New Zealand: Australia produces fine winesfrom cooler regions, as well as a wide variety of budget-priced

Chardonnay with a focus on consumer brands, such as [yellowtail]. Australia produces quite a few unoaked wines. NewZealand, better-known for its Sauvignon Blanc, also producesChardonnay, focused both on quality wines and consumer brands.

Chile and Argentina: In South America, both of these

countries produce mostly market-driven, affordable Chardonnayfor the export market, but each country also produces finewines from cooler growing regions.

South Africa: Quality varies by producer, but the best cool-climate South African Chardonnays are quite good.


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Sauvignon BlancIn terms of popularity, Sauvignon Blanc lives in the shadow ofChardonnay, but is a very important grape for both Old World andNew World wines.

At its best, Old World Sauvignon Blanc features green aromas andflavors: green apples, green grapes, green herbs, etc., coupled witha pleasant smell and taste of earthy minerals.Classic Old World growing regions in France include the Loire Valleyand Bordeaux. Sauvignon Blanc is also an important grape in Italy.

New World Sauvignon Blanc has been referred to as a fruit saladin a glass, meaning that aromas and flavors of lime, kiwi, green

honeydew melon, and the tropical fruits guava, papaya, mango, andpassion fruit can dominate the wine. New Zealand has becomefamous for this style of Sauvignon Blanc. California produces crisp,refreshing, food-friendly Sauvignon Blanc as well as richer, morecomplex versions, often marketed as Fum Blanc. Chile and SouthAfrica both produce fine example of Sauvignon Blanc, too.


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THE 4 MAJOR WHITE GRAPESRiesling

Riesling is truly a versatile grape. Bone-dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet, andintensely sweet versions of Riesling abound; there is plenty ofsparkling Riesling, too. Riesling can be one of the most interesting -and successful - wines to pair with food. Riesling needs a very coolclimate and intense sunshine to ripen properly.

Germany is the classic Old World growing region for Riesling,producing some of the best Riesling wines in the world, in everypossible style. Alsace, France (once part of Germany) is best-knownfor producing dry, full-bodied examples of Riesling. Austria alsoproduces fine Rieslings in several different styles.

In the New World, Australia produces wines that are fresh and

fruity, most often dry to semi-dry. Washington State (the nationslargest producer of Riesling wines) and Idaho in the PacificNorthwest produce good Riesling, and the Finger Lakes in New YorkState produces some superb wines. Canada is a source for greatRieslings, both dry and sweet, specializing in Riesling Icewine.


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THE 4 MAJOR WHITE GRAPESPinot Gris / Pinot Grigio

Pinot Gris (French) and Pinot Grigio (Italian) are the same grape.No matter how you say it, GrayPinot has become a very popularvarietal in the United States. At its best, wine made from thisgrape should be medium-to-full-bodied, with spice, honeysuckle, andnuttiness on the nose, and tropical flavors on the palate.

The classic Old World growing region for Pinot Gris is Alsace,France, which produces intensely full-bodied wines. For Pinot Grigio,the wine regions of Northeast Italy produce the best wines.

In the New World, Pinot Gris is the most-planted white wine grapein Oregon, whose wines create a New World benchmark for thevarietal. California also produces quite a bit of wine, some of it

quite good, some of it mediocre. Canada produces some fine PinotGris. Australia also produces Pinot Grigio, mostly market-drivenvalue brands for the export market.


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SOME MINOR WHITE GRAPESNot as well-known as the four major whites, you are likely

to encounter some fine wines made from these seven grapes:Chenin Blanc: with flavors of quince and guava, and withhigh acidity, the grape is closely identified with the LoireValley of France, it is also an important grape in SouthAfrica;

Gewrztraminer: one of the most important grapes grownin Alsace, France, the grape is also grown in California andother regions. Gewrztraminer has a unique spiciness in itsnose and taste, but with relatively low acidity;

Smillon: an important white grape of Bordeaux, often

blended with Sauvignon Blanc to provide structure and body,making both dry and sweet wines;

Viognier: important grape in Frances Rhne Valley,Viognier, with its stone fruit flavors, is also grown inCalifornia, Australia, and South America;


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SOME MINOR WHITE GRAPESNot as well-known as the four major whites, you are likely

to encounter some fine wines made from these seven grapes:

Muscat: with orange blossom flavors, an important grapefor mostly sweet wines in northern Italy and southernFrance, with dry versions from Alsace and Portugal;

Alabario/Alvarinho: with white peach flavors, the samegrape is grown in both Spain (Albario) and Portugal(Alvarinho), producing some of the best white wines - usuallyunoaked - in both nations.

Torrontes:the most important white grape in Argentina;produces wines that are highly aromatic with tropical notesand relatively low acidity.


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THE 4 MAJOR RED GRAPES

CABERNET SAUVIGNONCabernet Sauvignon is grown throughout the world, and almostalways maintains its distinctive varietal character no matterwhere the wine is produced. The grape thrives in moderatelywarm climates, such as Bordeaux in France or the Napa Valleyin California. There is quite a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon planted

in very warm regions in both the Old World and the New World(Spain and Chile, for example).

A thick-skinned grape, Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits high tanninlevels, and finished wines are often blended with Merlot and/orCabernet Franc to soften the tannins in the wine.

At its best, Cabernet Sauvignon is an age-worthy wine; it is notunusual to drink a wine made from this grape ten to twentyyears after its vintage date. There are also many examples ofCabernet Sauvignon wines that are produced to be accessible atan early age.


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THE 4 MAJOR RED GRAPES

CABERNET SAUVIGNONClassic Growing Regions: Old and New World Old World: Cabernet Sauvignon is closely identified withBordeaux, France, where it produces some of the most famouswines in the world, along with affordable wines of good quality.

Significant Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards are also found in Italy,Spain, Portugal, and Greece, as well as many other countriesthroughout Europe.

New World: Cabernet Sauvignon is the most widely planted redgrape in California, and the wines of the Napa Valley and the NorthCoast (especially Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino counties) are

sought after. Many other states, such as Washington and New York,grow the grape and produce good wines. In the SouthernHemisphere, Cabernet Sauvignon is the most important grape inChile, and one of the most important in Australia, New Zealand,and South Africa.


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THE 4 MAJOR RED GRAPESMERLOT

Merlot (often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon), is one of the mostpopular wine grapes in the world. Most Merlot, responding to thedemands of the market, tends to be soft and fruit-driven, with abit of tannin in the background. However, there are also intense,tannic Merlot-based wines, capable of long aging. Merlot hasrelatively low acidity.

Old World Merlot: The Pomerol and St. Emilion districts ofBordeaux, France, produce ageworthy Merlot-based wines. Merlotis a very important grape in Italy, and is grown throughout warmerregions of Europe.

New World Merlot: California grows and produces a lot of

Merlot at all price points and quality levels. Both Washington Stateand LongIsland in New York State have developed reputations forthe high quality of their Merlot wines. Mostly-affordable Merlotsare produced in Chile and Australia, and good examples are found inwines from New Zealand.


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THE 4 MAJOR RED GRAPESPINOT NOIR

Pinot Noir is a very finicky, thin-skinned terroir-driven grape; itneeds cool weather and well-drained soil that is not too fertile.When all the forces of nature are aligned, Pinot Noir wines can beextraordinary, and perhaps the planets most food-friendly red.

In addition to producing red wines, Pinot Noir is a very important

constituent in high quality mthode champenoisesparkling wines.Old World Pinot Noir: Pinot Noir is the red grape of Burgundy,France, the classic region for this grape. It is also planted inChampagne, France, where, pressed without its skins, it is madeinto a white wine as part of the finished blend in the sparkler. PinotNoir also grows in Germany, Austria, and northeast Italy.

New World Pinot Noir: Oregon has made its reputation on itshigh-quality Pinot Noir wines. Californias cool-climate regions(Russian River Valley and Carneros, for example) make very finered wines and sparklers. New Zealands cool-climate Central Otagoregion is a great place for Pinot Noir, too.


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THE 4 MAJOR RED GRAPESSYRAH / SHIRAZ

Syrah and Shiraz are two names for the same grape. Syrah is theOld World name; Shiraz is New World. A thick-skinned grape withhigh tannin levels, Syrah/Shiraz can be a very full-bodied wine, withage-worthy character. Grown mostly in relatively warm areas, NewWorld Shiraz is often fruit-forward, jammy, and powerful. TheOldWorld style is earthier, with black fruits and black pepper in

the nose and on the palate. Old World Syrah: The classic growing region is the northernRhne Valley of France producing wines of very high quality. Syrahhas emerged as an important grape in Tuscany, Italy, as well asPortugal and Greece.

New World Syrah/Shiraz:California and Washington State arefocusing attention on producing high-quality Syrah. In Australia,

Shiraz is by the far the most important grape, and has made thereputation of the Australian wine industry. Wines are produced atevery conceivable quality and price level. South Africa alsoproduces some fine Shiraz wines.


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SOME MINOR RED GRAPESPerhaps not as well-known as the four major reds, you arelikely to encounter some fine wines made from these six grapes:Zinfandel: Grown almost exclusively in California, where itmakes a good to excellent red wine at various price points.Known as Primitivo in Italy;

Grenache: Grown in the southern Rhne Valley of France, in

Spain, Italy, and many other European countries, as well as inCalifornia. Often blended with other grapes, especially Syrah inFrance and Tempranillo in Spain;

Sangiovese: the most important red grape in Italy, especiallyin the Tuscany wine region;

Tempranillo: the most important red grape in Spain;Touriga Nacional: the most important red grape in Portugal;

Malbec: the most important red grape in Argentina; also usedas a blending grape in Bordeaux, France.


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WINE AND FOOD: SOME GUIDELINESWhen pairing wine with food, a basic guideline is to find equivalent

intensity levels in both the food and the wine. Light foods call forlight-bodied wines, while richer, more intense dishes call for fuller-bodied wines.

To find equivalent intensities in the food and the wine, consider:

1.The body of the wine: light, medium, or full-bodied?

2.The intensity of the food itself (beef is more intense than salmon;salmon is more intense than scallops; scallops are more intense thansalads, etc.). chart: pages 569-576,Exploring Wine3.The cooking method and its impact on the intensity level of thefinished dish (poached fish is lighter than sauted fish, sauted fish islighter than grilled fish, etc.) chart: pages 564-567,Exploring Wine

4.Once weve established equivalent intensities, we can pair the wine andfood based on either complementary flavors (ceviche featuring high-acid lime juice flavors with a light-to-medium-bodied high acid, fruitySauvignon Blanc) or contrasting flavors (spicy, smoked, or salty dishesserved with semi-dry, fruity wines).

WINE AND FOOD:


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WINE AND FOOD:THE TOWER OF POWER: WHITES

Following is a shorthand version of the extensive chart of mostly dry white

wines that appears on page 561 of Exploring Wine. More expensiveversions of these wines will normally be more full-bodied than inexpensiveversions.

VERY LIGHT-BODIED WHITES:

Vinho Verde (Portugal) and Muscadet (France)

LIGHT-BODIED WHITE: Stainless Steel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc

MEDIUM-BODIED WHITE:

Stainless Steel Fermented Chardonnay

MEDIUM-TO-FULL-BODIED WHITE:

Barrel Fermented Fum Blanc (Crossover)

FULL-BODIED WHITE:

Barrel Fermented and Aged Chardonnay (Crossover)

*Note: Riesling, Gewrztraminer and Chenin Blanc are white wines that maybe dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet, or sweet

WINE AND FOOD:


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WINE AND FOOD:THE TOWER OF POWER: REDS

Following is a shorthand version of the extensive chart of dry red winesthat appears on pages 562-563 of Exploring Wine. More expensiveversions of these wines will normally be more full-bodied thaninexpensive versions.

LIGHT-BODIED RED:

Gamay (Crossover)MEDIUM-BODIED RED:

Pinot Noir (Crossover)

MEDIUM-TO-FULL-BODIED REDS:

Merlot, Zinfandel, Grenache, and Cabernet Franc

FULL-BODIED REDS:Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvdre

VERY FULL-BODIED REDS:

Syrah/Shiraz and Petite Sirah


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WINE AND FOOD PAIRINGCROSSOVER WHITES AND CROSSOVER REDS

By observing the clich ofWhites with fish, reds with meat,

we limit ourselves and our palates. There are whites that work

with white meats and lean cuts of red meat, and there are

reds that pair beautifully with fish.

An example of a Crossover White would be a full-bodied,

oaked Chardonnay. This wine certainly could be served withmany rich white meats and fish preparations, as well as leaner

cuts of red meat, such as a filet mignon.

An example of a Crossover Red would be a light-bodied

Gamay or a medium-bodied Pinot Noir; neither have aggressive

tannins. Certainly these wines could pair nicely with the filetmignon, but would also marry happily with a fatty fish dish,

such as grilled salmon. Dry ros wines - still or sparkling - are

also good Crossover wines.


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WINE AND FOOD PAIRINGPROGRESSION OF INTENSITIES

In a multi-course meal, serve lighter wines with more delicatedishes before progressing to more full-bodied wines with richer

foods. For example a tart, high-acid Sauvignon Blanc may be

served with a poached halibut with a lemon/olive oil/herb sauce.

This is an example of food and wine complementing each other.

We can also bridge or echo flavors by preparing a dish with

the same or similar wine as the wine being served with the dish.

This also creates a complementary pairing.

The intensity of each course should build on the former

course, moving verticallyfrom course to course. If you wish tolower intensity between courses, serve a palate cleanser, such

as a green salad, clear soup, sorbet, or a sparkling wine toast.


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WINE AND FOOD PAIRINGPROGRESSION OF INTENSITIES

Match the power of the dish with the power of the wine. However,

do notpair spicy hot, smoked, or very salty dishes with full-bodied orhigh alcohol wines as the heat, smoke, and salt will be increased in both

the food and the wine. These dishes work best with light-to-medium-

bodied, fruity wines, including wines with just a touch of sweetness.

Good options: Riesling, Gewrztraminer, Chenin Blanc for whites; Ros

Brut sparklers; lighter, fruity reds, like Gamay, Dolcetto, orValpolicella. In this case, we are contrasting the flavors of the wine

with the flavors of the food.

Sweetness: Make sure that the wine is at least as sweet, or

preferably sweeter, than the food. Late Harvest, botrytis-affected,

Icewine, or sweet sparkling wines are not normally served withappetizers or main courses, but with desserts and some cheeses. Also, a

botrytis-affected sweet wine, such as Sauternes, paired with terrine of

foie gras is a classic match.


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WINE AND FOOD PAIRINGSOME OTHER PAIRING SUGGESTIONS

Drink local: Especially with traditional European dishes, pair local orregional wines that have evolved in style to pair with local or regional

dishes.

Remember that sometimes the wine serves as a backdrop to the food,

so a simpler, less dramatic wine may be chosen for that pairing. Other

times, the wine may be the focus of the pairing, so the preparation of

the dish may be simpler or less elaborate, in order to highlight the

character of the wine.

High acidity and/or bubbles cleanse the palate of richness, refreshing

and stimulating appetite, to prepare yourself for another bite of food,another sip of wine. Another example of cleansing would be to pair a

rich, rare porterhouse steak with a young, tannic, dry Cabernet

Sauvignon.


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WINE AND FOOD PAIRINGWINE ANTAGONISTS AND NEGATIVE PAIRINGS

Beneficial Omega-3 fatty acids clash with tannins, and will create

a metallic reaction on the palate if the fish is paired with a full-

bodied red wine, such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, or expensive,

more complex versions of Merlot and Zinfandel. When pairing a red

wine with fish, the pairing will be more harmonious if you serve a

Crossover red, such as Pinot Noir, or Gamay, or a sparkling or still

ros wine.

Very salty dishes, such as Virginia ham, when paired with high

tannin reds, will create an unpleasant metallic reaction on the

palate.


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WINE AND FOOD PAIRINGWINE ANTAGONISTS AND NEGATIVE PAIRINGS

Some vegetables or leafy greens, such as artichokes,

spinach, asparagus, and Brussels sprouts may change a wines

taste. Spinach, especially raw spinach, may create a metallic

reaction on the palate, while artichokes, asparagus, and

Brussels sprouts may make the wine taste sweeter.

Successful pairings with these greens and vegetables are

likely to be found if you use lighter, fruity whites, such as

stainless steel fermented Sauvignon Blanc, dry to semi-dryRiesling, or lower-alcohol, fresh, light wines, such as Vinho

Verde from Portugal.


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WINE AND FOOD PAIRING

WINE ANTAGONISTS AND NEGATIVE PAIRINGS

If the food is spicy hot and/or very salty, remember to pair with

lower-alcohol, dry or semi-dry wines - whites and ross, and the

lightest, fruitiest reds, perhaps served with a bit of a chill - or

sparkling wines.

Vinegar, because of its acetic acid, is a wine antagonist. If preparing a

vinaigrette, or other acid-based sauce or emulsion, use citrus, such as

lemon, lime, or grapefruit. Note that aged balsamic vinegar is wine-

friendly.

Other possible wine antagonists include: raw garlic, tamarind,

mustard, milk chocolate, beer or spirits-based sauces (such as a vodka

sauce).


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SERVING WINE

AT THE TABLE: SERVICE ETIQUETTE present the wine list with the menu; offer to assist the guest with his/her wine choice; after the order is taken, return to the table and presentthe wine - label showing - to the person who ordered it;

while holding the bottle, verbally repeat the name of thewine, the producer, and the vintage of the wine and anyspecial attributes such as reserve or lateharvest whenever possible, open cork-finished still wines on asurface - a side table, service cart, etc.

if the bottle has a cork and a foil cover, cut the foil at itslower lip. If the bottle has a screw cap, just unscrew; remove the cork from the bottle and pour a tasting portionfor the person who ordered the wine - about one ounce ofwine.


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SERVING WINE

AT THE TABLE: SERVICE ETIQUETTE if the taster approves the wine, pour for the womenfirst, then for the men;

all wine is served with the right hand, and pouredfrom the right side of the guest, whenever possible;

a standard portion of wine poured from the bottle isabout five ounces per glass. A standard 750ml/25.4 ozbottle may be stretched to serve a party of six (aboutfour ounces per glass);

when serving a new bottle of wine always present newglassware, even if it is a second bottle of the winepreviously ordered.


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At The Table/Service EtiquetteTannic young red wines may be

decanted to aerate the wine.

Older red wines may be decanted toseparate the sediment in the wine.

Decanting is an extra touch of

service that may be offered toguests, or requested by guests.


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SERVING SPARKLING WINE

AT THE TABLE: SERVICE ETIQUETTE use clean, dry flute or tulip glasses for service; make sure the bottle has been well-chilled before opening;

remove the neck foil and then cautiously remove the cage;

hold the bottle at a 45 angle, either in the air, or tilted inan ice bucket;

hold the cork tightly and carefully twist the bottle in onedirection;

pour the wine in two motions. Prime the glass with the first

pour, and wait for the mousse(the white foam of bubbles) tosubside a bit. Pour a second time.

keep the bottle in the ice bucket until another pour isneeded, and then replace the bottle in the ice bucket.

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