Wine Industry and cultivation of vines in Japan

December ２０１０TAKAHASHI Teiji

History of wine making in Japan

Meiji Government encouraged the wine production as a part of the Industry development policy and its failure

　 In 1874 Mita breeding station was established. 　 introduced vines from Europe and the USA , distributed them to many regions in Japan

In Iwai village (Yamanashi) a winery was founded. Other wineries were opened.　 In １８８４ Infected by phylloxera　 In 1890 Zenbei Kawakami started the vinification and cross breeding　　　 Meanwhile, the wine was not consumed. Many wineries stopped their business

Placing sweetened wine on the market and the expansion of its consumption　１８８６年　 Denbei Kamiya Hati budousyu　１８９９年　 Sinjiro Torii Akadama port wine (Origin of Suntory)　 During the war, the tartaric acid was needed for radiodetector. The wine making survi

ved.

Due to the higher standard of living and the change of eating pattern, the consumption of real wine started in Japan, Triggered by Tokyo Olympic games and by Osaka International exhibition. 　

　　　　 At first stage, the consumption of imported wine( promoted by activities of women)

Production and import of wine　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　 National tax

agency

1978 1998 2008

Domestically produced wine

28,000KL

146 83

Imported wine

10 224 163

Total 38 370 246

Supply of wine in Japan （２００８）　

DomesticallyProduced

wine

Wine produced by Japanese grapes

　　　 25,000KL （ 15,000 supplied

by farmers)

　10.1%

　 large,medium and

small wineries

　 　

Wine produced by imported juice or imported wine

　23.6%

Mainly large wineries

　 　 　

　 　　　５８，０００ＫＬ　 　 　

Importedwine Table wine 　６６．

３％

　 large,medium and

small importers

　 　 　 　 Total 246,000 Par adult 1.9L

　 　 　 　

　 Quality wine （ＧＩ wine ）

　 　　 　　　１６３，０００ＫＬ　　 　

Concentration of wine production　　　　　 Monthly report of statistics of liquors and foods

１９９７　　　　　％

１９９８ １９９９ ２０００

Mercian 26.0 25.6 23.2 29.0Suntory 23.7 22.2 21.5 26.3

Sapporo 9.3 10.2 8.5 9.5Manns 8.4 9.9 8.5 9.5Sainte neige

4.6 4.4 5.3

Others 27.5 23.9 20.4

Supply of grapes by farmers　　　　　　　 Survey of particular fruits by MAFF in 2007

　　　　　　　　　 Retrograde development of　　　　　　　　　 supply by farmers

　　　　　　　　　　 Faltering agriculture　　　　　　　　　　 lower price of grapes 　　　　　　　　　　（ Competition with imported juice)

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　

　　　　　　　　

　 Increase of production in winery ‘s farming land　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　 In winery’s farming land, by

contract farming with farmers 、 by agricultural organization , Purchase from farmers　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　

2001

　　02 03 04 05 07 08

Hokkaido 2390

　　トン

2326 2200 2252 2403 2282 2373

Yamanashi

4040

　　トン

4190 3897 3481 2788 3826 3154

Nagano 3922

　　トン

2512 3555 2690 4204 4350 4481

Japan total

20184

　　トン

16509 16779 15360 15002 15838 14865

Recent trend of wine consumption

Stable consumption of certain quantity ・・・ Understanding of quality of wine , of related culture

　　　　・・・ Preference of quality wine　　　 Stable consumption of ordinary wine as well　　　　 Competition with Imported wine

Recent trend　・ Increasing interest in wine produced by Japans’ grapes (100%) for consumers and producers Remarkable improvement of quality of Japan’s wine for recent 15 years 　　・ Revitalization of older regional wineries and new comers (vignero

ns) in regions , who are eager to produce high quality Japan’s wine　・ In large wineries, strengthening of high quality wine by 100 % of g

rapes in Japan

Concept of high quality winerecent notion

・ Quality of wine depends on 80% quality of grapes, 20% technology of vinification

・ Good wine is to produce good grapes Wine making is agriculture　　　　 Wineries themselves , both large and small are eager to produce good grapes.

Good grape= sugar and acid high contents, good color and flovour, high contents of mineral, small fruits, thick skin.

・ As far as pursuing high quality, character attributed to the region is observed 　　 Notion of appellation d’origine (AOC)

・ Combination of names of origin and grapes in labelling Conjunction of the notion developed in Europe and the notion developed in the new world Example: Kikyogahara Merlot, Hokusin Chardonnay, Komoro Merlot

・ Possibility of export of high quality Japan’s wine

Evolution of production of grapes for wine in Japan

・ Belief that climate conditions such as high humidity are unfavorable to the production of vines in Japan

　　　　　 Natural features and notion of terroir　　　　　 Technology for production of table grapes has been advanced.

・ For many years, the rest of table grapes has been used for wine production.

・ Recognition of need of European varieties (vitis vinifera) to produce good wine. 　　 Introduction of vitis vinifera and trial of cultivation by large wineries

Transfer of technology and know-how to small wineries　　 Selection of suitable land, soil improvement （ deacidification, drainage ）、　　 Cultivation methods and management （ trellis training- espalier training, pruning ）　　 Prevention of adverse effect of rain ( rain cut, multi ）

・ Identification that some varieties are possible to cultivate, to produce good wine.　 Still, under the process of trial and testing, possibility of identification of others varieties

・ Reappraisal of indigenous varieties, Kosyu, Muscat-Bailey A, Zenkoji

European varieties in Japan

　Ｆｌａｇｓｈｉｐ　 Japan’s wine　　　 Kikyogahara Merlot Mercian　　　　 Hokusinn Chardonnay 　　 Mercian　　　　 Jounohira cabernet sauvignon 　 Mercian　　　　 Tomi 　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　 Suntory　　　　 Komoro Merlot 　　　　　　　　　　　 Manns

　 Suitable varieties in Japan　　　 Chardonnay 、 Merlot 、 Cabernet sauvignon 、 Petit verdot 　　　　　 Hokkaido: Zweigeltrebe 、 Muller-Thurgau 、 Kelner

　 Varieties rather difficult, no sufficient experiences in Japan

　　　 Pinot noir, Rhine reisling, Sauvignon blanc, Shirah

Main regions in East of Japan

Nagano

・ Shiojiri

・ Hokusin

・ Toshin

・ Matsumoto,

Ａｚｕｍｉｎｏ

Merlot 、 Niagara, Concord

Ｃ hardonnay 、 Cabernet sauvignon 、 Merlot ーＣ hardonnay 、 Cabernet sauvignon 、 Merlot 、 Zenkoji

Cabernet sauvignon 、 Merlot 、Ｃ hardonnay 、 Niagara 、Concord 、 Kerner

Yamanashi

・ Katunu

ma, Enzan

・ Koufu,

Kai

・ Hokuto

Kosyu 、 Cabernet sauvignon 、 Muscat bailey A

Petit verdot

Kosyu 、 Merlot 、Ｃ hardonnay 、 Muscat bailey A,

Kosyu 、Ｃ hardonnay 、 Cabernet sauvignon

Niigata ・ Iwanohara

Muscat bailey A

Yamagata

・ Kamino

yama, Zao

Cabernet sauvignon 、 Merlot 、Ｃ hardonnay 、Black queen, Pinot noir 、 Muscat bailey A

Hokkaido

・ Yoichi

・ Otaru

・ Tokachi

Muller thurgau 、 Kerner 、 Zweigeltrebe 、Baccus 、 Delaware

Kiyomi, Yamasati 、 Kiyomai 、 Zweigeltrebe 、

Main production areas of large wineries

Mercian　　 Kikyogahara Nagano Merlot　　　 Hokusin Nagano Chardonnay　　　 Jyonohira (Katunuma) Yamanashi Cabernet sauvignon　　　 Omori Akita Reisling 　 (3ha)　　　 Niizuru Fukushima 　　 Chardonnay 　　 (40,000 bottles)　　　 Mariko Nagano Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc 、 Merlot (release in 201

0)　　　　　　　　　　　　　（ 12ha, old mulberry field (derelict field) 、 rain 90

0mm)

Suntory　　 Tomino-oka Yamanashi 　 Tomi (150ha, Altitude 400~600m ）　　　 Shiojiri Nagano Shinsyu Chardonnay 、 Kikyogahara Merlot （ 10ha)

Manns　　 Komoro Nagano 　 Merlot 、 Chardonnay 　 ( ４ ha, contract farming10h

a) 　　　　 Higashiyama 　 Nagano Cabernet sauvignon 　 (3.3ha 　 altitude 500m rain 950mm)

Wines of 100% Japanese grapes by larges wineries

Mercian　 Release of Mariko wine from 2010

Suntory　 Japan premium (Thrilling Japanese wine in the world) from 2010　　 100% domestic grapes, Series of regions,　　　　 Shinsyu, Shiojiri 、 Tugaru 、 Kaminoyama, Azumino 　　 100% domestic grapes, Series of grape varieties Muscat bailey A, Kosyu, Chardonnay, Merlot

Manns　 Solaris series　　　 Komoro Chardonnay 、 Shinsyu Chardonnay 、 Komoro Merlot Thikumagawa Merlot 、　　　 Shinsyu Cabernet sauvignon, Higashiyama Cabernet sauvignon

Example of medium and small wineriesTakeda winery Yamagata Kaminoyama 15ha　　　　 Cabernet 、 Merlot 、 Chardonnay 、 Reisling 、 Muscat bailey AOfuse winery Nagano 5ha 　　　　　 Chardonnay 5,000 bottles 、 Merlot 5,000bottlesIwanohara wine Niigata 10ha 　　　　　 Muscat bailey A, Black queenHayashi farm Goiti wine Nagano 7ha, 38 farmers in contract 　 Special red 、 Gold red 、 Concord without additives 、 Niagara 　　Izutu wine Nagano　　　　 Merlot barrel fermented 、 Cabernet barrel fermentedMisawa winery （ Tyuou budosyu ）　 Yamanashi, 8ha ( old mulberry field ), Cabernet, Merlot, petit verdot, 4ha KosyuBeau paysage 、 Tsugane Yamanashi 2.8ha 　　　　 Cabernet, Chardonnay, MerlotSakaori winery Yamanashi , Mainly by contract with farmers 　 　 Muscat bailey A

Around half of prizes in Japan wine competition were given to wines of small and medium size wineries in 2010.

All over Japan, approximately 200 wineries in 2010

Cultivation method of vines in Japan

（ Control of growing environment ） Limitation of fertilizer and pesticides

（ Control of growth ）

Prevention of much growth 　 Leaf thinning 、 pruning 、摘芯、 espalier training 、 high density planting (3,000~6,000/ha)

（ High density planting and control of yield ） Two branches (arcures), 10~15 buds (yeux) 、 one cluster par bud

　 Restriction of yield (5~15 tonnes/ha), Kosyu table grapes: 17 tonnes /ha)

Distance between pieds :1~1.5m 、 distance between line (row) 2~3m

（ Prevention of humidity (rain) ） Problem of rain in fall ：　 rain cut, multi

（ Prevention of diseases ）　

Green house effect to grapes

• Problems of color and sugar contents for black grapes problems of sugar contents and flavor for white grapes

• According to recent studies, certain level of low temperature is important, instead of the difference of temperature between day time and night.• Above 25 degrees in night = the sufficient black color does not come. Without low te

mperature in night and at dawn= the level of sugar contents is insufficient.

・　 Pionet (table grape) : no sufficient color. Kyoho (table grape) in Makioka district : insufficient color in recent years.

• In Kikyogahara, suffering from diseases in recent years. Irregulier rains. However, color problem does not exist. The cultivation of cabernet became possible in recent years. （ Izutu wine grows this variety ）

• Diseases became serious under the greenhouse effect.　　　 Tokachi areas (Hokkaido) are suffering, due to the high humidity in summer.　　　 30 % were infected by mildew in Yamanashi prefecture (2010)　　　 Kosyu and Muscat bailey A have been suffering from diseases (2010)

Green house effect (Continued)

• Chardonnay in a winery in North Nagano has been totally devastate

d, because of missing of timing of spraying （ 2010)

• Niagara is cultivated all over Japan. In Yamanashi, the aroma are poor. No problem in Kikyogahara for Niagara and Concord.

• The flavor of Chardonnay is the most intensive just before sun rise. The wine in Kumamoto (Kyusyu) has won a gold prize. Grapes were

harvested at dawn.

• The production of good wine would be possible in western part of Japan by selection of suitable land at high altitude.

• Opinions that too much concerns about the greenhouse effect would induce a confusion, in longer terms.

Institutional issues of wine production and consumption

・ Liquor tax law regulates the wine only for the purpose of imposition of tax. 　 Any specific legal definition of wine does not exist ( Fruits liquor)

・ There is not any legislation for wine industry development, neither for the protection of consumers.

　　　　　　　 ( A group of parliamentarians of the liberal democratic party for the development of wine industry has been created. )

・ No legal standards for the labelling　　　　　（ Voluntary standards by some groups of the industry exist)

・ The system of GI （ regional collective trade marks, GI system under the law of cooperatives for liquor) does not function well. There is not any registration ・ designation for wine at the moment.

　　　　（ In the world standard, high quality wine is legally segregated from usual wines ）

　　・ No legal system to classify the domestic high quality wine as GI　　・ Japanese high quality wine is regarded as ordinary one in overseas market. ＝ labelling of names of region , of 「 barrel fermented 」 , 　「 sur lie 」 are not allo

wed in overseas 。・ Uncertainty of protection of names of Japanese high quality wines

Appellation d’origine management system in Nagano (since 2002 ）

Requirements of production

・ Grape varieties and sugar contents

　　 Merlot, Chardonnay, Asama merlot = 　 sugar contents over 19 degrees

　　 Other varieties are classified according to the minimum degrees of sugar

contents(18, 17,and 16 degrees)・ Grapes produced in Nagano prefecture 　　 100%

・ Blend of varieties 　　　 　 Yes

・ Limit of enrichment (Chaptalisation)

　 Degree of sugar contents of grapes maximum limit of alcohol value of enrichment 19 degrees 3.15ml/100ml

18 degrees 3.80 　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　

17 degrees 　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　 4.46

　 16 degrees 　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　 5.10

Acidification, Deacidification 　　 No

Addition of Alcohol 　 No 　　

Appellation d’origine management system in Nagano （ Continued ）

・ Juice reserve Yes （ under 25% of the wine)

・ Freezing of grapes Yes 　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　

・ Blend of different vintage wines No・ Additives 　　 sulfite only　　 Noble wine and wine of frozen grapes Under 350mg/kg　　 Other wines 　 Under 250mg/kg

・ Place of vinification 　 From crush to bottling and bottle aging within the territory of Nagano prefecture

・ Sensory test (examen organoleptique) Obligation

・ Labelling standards　　・ Surface side Registration mark　　・ Reverse side 　 Name of origin (Nagano) 、 Name/s of varieties 　 ( percentage) 、 Vintage year 、 Place of production, Name of additive (sulfite)　　　　　　

Certification system of appellation d’origine of Kosyu city （ 2010 ）

１　 Categories　（１）　 Wine of grapes produced in Kosyu city　　　 100% of grapes harvested in Kosyu city　　　 Sugar contents ：　 Kosyu: minimum 16 degrees 、 European varieties: mini

mun 18 Hibrid varieties: minimum 17　　　 Bland of different varieties is allowable, except Kosyu variety　（２）　 Wine of grapes harvested in Yamanashi prefecture, Vinification in Kosyu city　　　 100 % of grapes harvested in Yamanashi Sugar contents: same standards as above

２　 On site verification based on application document by the committee of document examination (by November)

３　 Application and Examination by the Committee of document examination

４　 Sensory test by the committee of sensory test　　　５　 Examination of labelling

６　 Declaration of certification 、 Distribution of certification sticker