Head to the heart of the North Island and enjoy high adventure and thrills aplenty, then revel in the tranquillity and luxury on offer.

STORY MARGOT BUTCHER

Opposite page: The Owner's Cottage at Huka Lodge. This page: Mount Ngauruhoe and Mount Tongariro as seen from Mt Ruapehu.

WILD TAUPO

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——The Tongariro River provides an aquatic

playground – but should you see it whizz by while ra�ing a roller coaster of rapids or study it intently over a �y-

�shing reel?——

THAT FIRST GLIMPSE of Lake Taupō’s blue edge lapping over a crunchy, pumicey-white shore always manages to impart equal measures of excitement and sheer calm. New Zealand’s largest lake, appropriately heart-shaped in the centre of the North Island, and with its mountain-studded surrounds, is one of those spots where a smorgasbord of great outdoors activities has you oscillating between adrenaline highs and feeling the serenity. The 616 sq km lake is also the lifeblood of its eponymous town.

Excitement is easy to find here; the hard part is narrowing down your choices when you have a limited time frame. Lake Taupō’s most substantial tributary, the Tongariro River, also provides a natural aquatic playground – but should you see it whizz by while rafting a roller coaster of Grade 3 rapids, or study it intently over a fly-fishing reel while trying to outsmart a notoriously crafty big brown trout?

There are, I’m told, roughly a dozen rainbow trout to every brown trout around here, but it varies and some spots are known as brown trout thoroughfares. The browns are bigger on the whole, and smarter, according to the experts who take guided fly-fishing trips to their “secret” spots. So, where to start?

TROUT CENTRALWorld renowned for fly-fishing, the tiny township of Turangi is just a half-hour drive from the centre of Taupō, around the lake and down a bit to the western selvedge of the Tongariro River. Professional guides – and there are many to choose from – help you sort out the mandatory fishing licence (traveller-friendly 24-hour and one-week licences are options). They also o�er everything from heli-fishing in back-country hotspots, floating by raft and leisurely charter launch cruises on Lake Taupō, to a classic 4WD experience followed by an introduction to the fine art of casting a fly (and, if you prove your patience, and the fish are biting – and they don’t see you before you see them – landing your maiden catch). You can

fly fish year round, but autumn is regarded as the best season. The fish are generally fatter, plus it’s a stunning way to at least catch incredible scenery as the landscape dons its seasonal golden cloak.

Tongariro Lodge (tongarirolodge.co.nz) fishing guides have been operating for more than 30 years and have access to more than 40 rivers. Family in tow? The park-like setting of Tongariro National Trout Centre (troutcentre.com) is a brilliant spot to introduce the kids to the thrill of fishing in a purpose-built, shallow lake teeming with hatchery trout. Among the well-designed educational experiences is a rare chance to study the gorgeous native whio – endangered blue duck – raised in a predator-proof environment here in the summer months before being reintroduced to the wild.

TAKE A HIKEThe surreal one-day hike across 19.4km of volcanic scenery in Tongariro National Park is one of New Zealand’s great must-dos. The highlights of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing

This page from top: The Taupo- region is known around the world for exceptional fly-fishing; Blake House at Poronui. Opposite page clockwise from top: Fishing at Poronui; Cascades Falls in the Whirinaki Forest Park; the Alan Pye Cottage at Huka Lodge.

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From above: Huka Falls; viewing the Ma ̄ ori carvings at Mine Bay by yacht.

Clockwise from far left: Riding the Great Lake Trail; on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing; skiing at Whakapapa on Mount Ruapehu.

(tongarirocrossing.org.nz) are the other-worldly saddle between two sacred mountains, Tongariro and Ngauruhoe; the Red Crater – a rusty-hued 1886m-high point; and the descent past the vivid-coloured Blue and Green lakes, naturally coloured by minerals.

The track is challenging in places and can be tackled from either direction, but if you start at Mangatepopo, which is more than 300m higher than Ketetahi at the other end, there is less climbing. Seeking sound advice on the weather, including wind, is vital (in winter, especially, be sure to equip yourself with an expert guide and all the prudent gear). Even in summer, booking a personal guide will enhance your safety as well as your knowledge about this unique geography with its volcanic domes.

With soul-stirring expanses, scree slopes and abundant photo opportunities, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a terrific guided hike for groups of friends, but save yourself the hassle of finding a vehicle space. A new four-hour parking limit at the Mangatepopo end – the complete crossing takes some seven hours in summer, longer in snow – means it’s smarter to take a shuttle from Taupō or Turangi.

Expert adventure companies providing transport include Tongariro Expeditions (tongariroexpeditions.com), Adventure Shuttles (adventureshuttles.co.nz), Adventure HQ (adventurehq.co.nz) and Adrift Guided Outdoor Adventures (adriftnz.co.nz).

FEEL THE SERENITYBetween white-water rapids and the lake, water babies are spoiled for choice. But even if you don’t fancy getting your toes wet, there are options to discover the full beauty of Lake Taupō and its charming bays. Barbary Scenic Cruises (sailbarbary.com) o�ers a two-and-a-half-hour yacht trip to view the 14m-high Māori rock carvings at Mine Bay, which are only visible from the water. You can also visit by kayak or even floatplane.

The impressive rock art was created between 1976 and 1980 after local man, Matahi Whakataka-Brightwell, who had learned to carve the traditional way on a marae, paddled past a rock alcove and had a vision of a tattooed face. His grandmother, Te Huatahi Susie Gilbert, asked him to create a likeness of their ancestor Ngātoroirangi, which he did with a team of four artists. Two smaller figures of Celtic design are a nod to multiculturalism.

ZOOM TIMESThink jet-boating and Queenstown springs to mind, but the North Island has a terrific

secret hidden away in its back country: the biggest commercially jet-boated rapids in New Zealand. Bounce over the playground that is the Aratiatia Rapids – they spill from the local hydroelectric dam – in big 500-horsepower Chevy V8s, then shoot through the narrowest canyon on the Waikato River into the impressive stretch that is Ngā Awa Purua (the river of springs) with Rapids Jet (rapidsjet.com). You’ll see the Huka Falls from a whole new perspective with Hukafalls Jet (hukafallsjet.com/nz), which starts with the traditional thrill of 360-degree spins along the flat river before heading up to the foot of the famous falls and zooming through the spray: great fun.

SNOW BUSINESSThe elevation of the Central Plateau means it experiences true seasons and winter’s arrival transforms the summer fishing, hiking and camping hotspot into the North Island’s skiing and snowboarding capital. The Whakapapa ski field (mtruapehu.com) on the north-western slopes of Mount Ruapehu is the country’s largest with more

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Getting there

Contact Centre 0800 737 000

Holidays Travel Brokers 0800 737 767

airnewzealand.co.nz

Air New Zealand offers daily flights to Taupo- from Auckland, with connections across the domestic network.

Eat R E PLETE CAFE & STOR E

Deli-cafe Replete, in Taupo-’s Heuheu Street, has become a firm local go-to over the years. It has consistently great coffee and a good selection of brunch staples that also cater for dietary restrictions. replete.co.nz

PLATEAU BAR + EATE RY

The fresh cockles in Plateau Bar + Eatery’s legendary seafood platter are a treat, and if you love crispy-skinned pork, duck confit and venison, this place in Tuwharetoa Street is for you. plateautaupo.co.nz

S POON & PAD D LE

Spoon & Paddle does some of the best-looking brekkies in town. This cute converted Heuheu Street bungalow is a great spot to fuel up before a busy day of adventure. facebook.com/spoonandpaddle

MALABAR R E STAU RANT & BAR

Malabar's reputation for Nepalese and Indian cuisine is matched by its service and convivial atmosphere. The Nepali chef brought his experience in five-star hotels around the world to this Ruapehu Street gem in the heart of Taupo-. malabartaupo.com

B EACH 243

The lake views are hard to beat along the short waterfront strip of central Taupo- . For a romantic lakefront setting head further along Lake Terrace to Millennium Hotel’s Beach 243. millenniumhotels.com

LAKE LAN D HOUS E R E STAU RANT

Kick back at the secluded Lakeland House Restaurant at Tokaanu, just past the township of Turangi. It has top fare, but manages to keep its atmosphere Kiwi-casual. braxmere.co.nz/restaurant

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Sleep TONGAR I RO LODG E

If luxury is the order of the day, you’re in luck with some of New Zealand’s best-known top-end getaways. Tongariro Lodge is a modern fishing lodge that makes the most of its proximity to the river, on the edge of Tongariro National Park. tongarirolodge.co.nz

H U KA LODG E

For more than 90 years Huka Lodge has sat at this private spot on the Waikato River, just upstream from where the river thunders over a volcanic ledge north of Lake Taupo-. Huka Lodge may hold the national record for number of successful marriage proposals with a setting that’s both exhilarating, classic and exquisite. hukalodge.co.nz

H U KA FALLS R E SORT

With its own vineyard, the private villas of the younger Huka Falls Resort are family friendly. hukafallsresort.com

B LAKE HOUS E

Head south to Taharua Valley to splash out on secluded Blake House at Poronui, where you’re in the heart of nature yet have a personal chef at your disposal. poronui.com

CHATEAU TONGAR I RO HOTE L

A historic treasure in a prime spot within Tongariro National Park, surrounded by the three great mountains. A broad range of configurations means there’s something to suit everyone, from family rooms, decadent spa suites, self-catering units to premium luxury suites. chateau.co.nz

than 65 trails across 1050ha. Its Happy Valley is an ideal introduction for beginners and kids while Tūroa on the mountain’s south-western side is a drawcard for seasoned skiers seeking the thrills of its long vertical descent, 25 black and black-diamond runs and two lift-accessed back-country areas.

DRIVE TIMEWith nine courses in the region, golf nuts are covered. Jack Nicklaus designed The Kinloch Club (thekinlochclub.com), an authentic links-style course, while the gently rolling Wairakei Golf + Sanctuary (wairakeigolfcourse.co.nz) is set in a predator-controlled sanctuary, which means kiwi can be heard and spotted roaming the leafy course by night. Just out of Taupō, the sumptuous Wairakei Resort Taupō (wairakei.co.nz) also sports its own resort course in an area pocketed with geothermal springs which are harnessed to heat the swimming pools.

Meanwhile, back in town, make sure you stop when you spot the kooky platform moored just o�shore: the Lake Taupo Hole In One Challenge (holein1.co.nz). Either superb form or superb luck will win you prizes – up to $10,000 – if you manage to peel your eyes away from the spectacular view of the mountains and shoot a hole in one. You get a free ball every time you at least hit the pontoon. greatlaketaupo.com

Winter at the Chateau Tongariro Hotel.

TAU PO-

Travel Taupo-

60 Kia Ora