Wild Country Cam Book 2Mb

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the cambook


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3 IntroductionThe Wild Country Cam Book

4 GenesisA chance meeting

5 HistoryA brief history of Friends- Ray Jardine

7 DevelopmentWith a little help from my friends

8 How cams workDesigning the perfect cam- Mark Vallance

14 Zero cam developmentAchieving engineering excellence

16 ZerosThe smallest cams in the world

20 Technical FriendsThe denitive range of cams

24 Forged FriendsThe original cam

28 Standards & TestingThree Sigma, ISO 9002 UIAA, CEexplained

29 Safety & MaintenanceLooking after your Friends

30 SpecicationStrengths, weights and dimensions

31 GlossaryTechnical terms explained

Front cover:Ray Jardine onSeparate Reality 5.11d highabove Cookie Cliffs, Yosemite,1977. Photo: John Lakey

Left:Ray Jardine onCrimson Cringe 5.12a, Yosemite,1975. Photo: Mark Vallance

contents


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Cams cant work, put a nut in, its stronger,they wont grip inLimestone, you cant use rigid ones inhorizontal cracks,these are lighter but

those have more range, just how dothey work anyway? There has always been a special buzzabout Friends.* More than any otherpiece of climbing gear Friends havealways created and polarised opinion.Every climber has a question and apoint of view and over the yearstheir counterintuitive nature and

complicated physics has perplexedand excited climbers in equalmeasure.

Guide books describe cracks by Friendsize and climbers stories of life savingFriend placements are legendary.They are quite simply the mostimportant, the most expensive andthe most desired piece of gear on anyclimbers rack.

Yet paradoxically, when polled,

climbers still dont seem to trustthem absolutely. Most would preferto set off on a lonely run-out pitchabove a bomber nut than trust to itscomplicated mechanical equivalent.

So why should this beautifully

engineered machine, thatrevolutionised climbing world-wideover two decades ago be viewed withsuch ambivalence? The simple answeris that many climbers just dont getthem. Why do these 21 componentsmade from exotic aluminium alloyand carbon steel, grip tenaciously inthe crack as we fall past, protectingus from certain disaster? Where didthey come from, who invented them,

how do they work?The Wild Country Cam Book will notonly explain why Friends work buthow they work, where they workbest, as well as the circumstanceswhere they may not work. Based onover two decades of experience inFriend manufacture, Wild Countryknows more about cams than anyother company and is best placed togive you the answers to the

questions you most wanted to ask.Learn about the design of Friendsfrom prototype to production, thematerials and manufacturingtechniques, the quality control, thestandards and the testing involved.

Learn how a cam works, what is camangle, cam range, predictability andstability, friction and ares.

Learn about using Friends safely inparallel, ared and horizontal cracksand how to select the best Friend forthe job, Forged, Technical or the newZero Cams.

The Wild Country Cam Book has beenwritten to answer all your questionsabout cams, but one question youmay quite rightly ask is why now?The answer is quite simply ZeroCams. This project more than anyother focussed us on explaining moreabout what we do, as we struggled

with the complexities of moving thegame on in cam design. We had tore-evaluate our ideas and techniques

and most importantly, we had toreinvent how we tested and usethese radical miniature cams outthere on the crag.

The Zero cam was the catalyst butThe Cam Book became much more

for us. The desire to write down thedistillation of 25 years of knowledgefor climbers to learn and understandabout cams became compelling.So whether you are an experiencedbig wall climber or fresh apprenticestraight from the gym, we trustyou will enjoy the Wild CountryCam Book, brought to you by TheCam Company.

Martin Atkinson,

Managing Director Wild Country (*Friends is the name given to the originalWild Country cams).

THE CAM COMPANY 3

introduction> the wild country cam book

Above: Andy Cave testing Zeros onCerro Mascara ,Bader Valley, Paine, Patagonia. Photo: Simon Nadin


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4 THE CAM COMPANY

Above: Scott Burke on 33rd pitch of Freerider , (left of the Salath Headwall a5.10 offwidth) Freerider is 37 pitches of 12d/13a. Photo: Eric Perlman

genesis>

a chance meeting

The beginning of the Wild Country storywas a chance meeting between twoclimbers from entirely differentbackgrounds, Ray Jardine and Mark

Vallance. Had that meeting not takenplace, who is to say if camming deviceswould have ever graced our hardwareracks. Of course most people would saythat someone else would have inventedthem, but these things are always easywith hindsight. I would prefer to believethat if these two climbers, one ascientist and the other an entrepreneur,had not teamed up to climb together inthe summer of 1972, Friends mightnever have been.

Ray grew up in Colorado Springs, anormal upbringing which included manyoutdoor activities but remarkably noclimbing. In 1962 he decided thataerospace engineering was the careerfor him and set about his studies with awill. It was while on a summer vacation

job in Yellowstone Park that Ray tookclimbing lessons with instructor BarryCorbet of Everest fame. The die was castand Ray threw himself into his newpassion, climbing many routes in theTetons that year.

By 1964 he had moved on to NorthropUniversity, Los Angeles, to studyAeronautical and AstronauticalEngineering, qualifying in 1967 with adegree in his chosen speciality. Movingto Denver he began work as a systemsanalyst, specialising in computersimulated space ight, shapingtrajectories for earth satellite andinterplanetary missions.

Through the late 60s climbing tookon more urgency for Ray. By 1970 hedecided to give up the space race andbegan climbing full time, with Yosemiteoccupying his ambitions. It wasundoubtedly during this frenzy of climbing activity that culminated withhis rst ascent of the Nose on ElCapitan, that his need to protect thosesoaring crack lines developed. The nexttwo years saw the grades escalate andby the end of 1972 he had climbed his

rst 5.11 New Dimensions, which wasthe rst all nut ascent. Clean pin freeclimbing was introduced to America byYvon Chouinard in the 60s, and as Raypushed the grades ever higher, the needfor a new fast method to protect hisambitious projects became obvious. TheFriend was born.

Ray had begun to work on his rstprototype Friend in 1971 and during the

following ve years both his climbingcareer and Friend developmentaccelerated at an extraordinary pace.During 1976 and 1977 Rays investmentin climbing was paying off, even thoughhis other passion, Friends, had yet tobecome a commercial reality. Hissuccess on Routes like Crimson Cringe5.12, Hangdog Flyer 5.12c, SeparateReality 5.12, Owl Roof 5.12c, Rostrum5.12c and the rst 5.13 in the valley,

Phoenix, were not only due to hisoutstanding climbing ability butundoubtedly the success of his earlyprototype Friends.

During the summer of 1972 Ray hadmet and climbed with fellow instructorand future business partner Mark Vallance at the Colorado OutwardBound School, although at this timeRays early prototypes were still topsecret. It was much later, in 1975, that

Ray introduced his prototype cams toMark, a story told later in The Cam Book,securing a future for what was tobecome the rst commercial cammingdevice, the Friend.

In 1977, after many frustrating attemptsto get his Friends made in the USA, Rayteamed up with Mark Vallance to developand produce Friends in Derbyshire,England. The story of that beginning, therisks, the commitment, the facts, themyths and the characters that made it allpossible is now told by these tworemarkable men.


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Some day we climbers may wear specialgloves and shoes enabling us to scaleblank walls like spiders. Should we falloff, like spiders our body harnesses mayinstantly attach safety lines to the rock.If and when inventors develop thistechnology, we will no doubt consider itclever but obvious thanks to our20-20 hindsight. But for now, noneof us can envision the details.

And so it was with the Friends 25years ago when I was inventingthem. The need was apparent, atleast to me, but the actualconguration was elusive to meand everyone else.

Seeking a device that would anchoritself in a crack, and hold withgreater power the harder the pull, Ibegan the inventive process in1971 with a dual sliding wedgedesign. Taking advantage of myaerospace engineering backgroundI analyzed this conguration andfound it mathematically unsound.The internal friction between anykind of wedge reduces theirholding power and in manysituations such a device could pullout. I was inventing for my ownuse and was not about tocompromise safety.

The constant angle spiral is ubiquitousin nature, from seashells and pineconesto swirling barometric pressure gradientsand the great spiral nebulas. Really it is just an expression of uniform growth.Descartes described the principlemathematically in 1638, calling it theequiangular spiral. Since then constantangle cams have been used inuncountable mechanical devices.

Conguring a workable device, however,proved to be an enormous task. Inretrospect it took someone withaerospace engineering skills, a questingmind coupled with extreme motivation

and a passion for climbing somethingof a rare combination in those daysperhaps. For months I worked, buildingcamming prototypes, testing them atthe local crags and innovating designimprovements in the evenings at home.In the end I lled a couple of sizableboxes with discarded prototypes.

Then one day aftertrying absolutelyeverything I couldthink of, andcontinuallystraining my mindfor ever more ideas,the concept came to me of a double set of opposing andindependently spring loaded cams. Likewheels of a car having independentsuspension, each of these cams wouldbe able to adjust to widely varyingsurface irregularities, within its limit, of course. I put one of these quadstogether and took it to the crags fortesting. The cams were spring-loaded

against each other, and they were heldtogether with a high-tensile steel bolt.But the bolt was wrapped with a pieceof ordinary strap iron as a stem, and of course the device lacked any kind of trigger.

On a 5.8 route which I called Fantasialocated at Split Rocks, I climbed to a

stance where I could almost let gowith both hands, I managed to

squiggle the quad into a handsizedcrack. By the way it behaved I knewinstantly that it was the answer.

The following spring, 1974, I tookmy rst set of working prototypeFriends to Yosemite and climbeddozens of difcult routes withthem. These units were rough hewnand extremely limited by todaysstandards, and I had only a limitednumber of them: four size 21/2s

and three 31/2s. But they certainlyproved their worth, and at seasons

end three of us used them in anattempt to climb the Nose in a day.Three hours of late afternoondownpour immobilised us beneath

the Great Roof and forced a bivyat Camp V. But we did nish

in 20 hours total climbingtime, and managed to cutthe previous three-dayrecord in half.

In 1977 Mark Vallanceinvited me to the UKto help him startmanufacturing Friends.

Mark is a highlydedicated and gifted individual, andwas the rst person to see thewidespread appeal of Friends. Friendmarketability is obvious now, but itcertainly was not then, and Mark wasthe visionary who made it happen.The next year, Mark founded WildCountry and started selling Friends.

Ray Jardine 19 April, 1998.

THE CAM COMPANY 5

history> a brief history of friends

Above: Ray Jardine nesting onEagle Ledge , the Nose El Capitan circa 1980 Photo: Daniel BolsterInset: First working prototype Friend with strap iron stem Photo: Ray Jardine


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THE CAM COMPANY 7

development> with a little help from my friends

Starting a new business is like havingone hundred feet of rope out, norunners and a 5.10 move in front of you, and it can feel like that forweeks on end.

I prepared to jump, the weather wasperfect, clear sky, hard frost and ascattering of snow. The camera teamwas in position and waiting, theradio mike was turned on and

recording.I climbed past the top Friend, got myfeet above it, climbed a little higher Hell Ill give them a real show andclimbed a little higher still. Then I

jumped.

As the rope tightened, my belayerwas jerked upwards and I felt mybreath being knocked out of me. Iwas lowered to the ground noneed for a retake. The ve minute

episode on the BBCs TomorrowsWorld programme was aired at theend of January 1978 and a six yearsecret was out of the bag.

It was 1972 when I rst met RayJardine in Colorado, I was on my wayback from Antarctica. We were bothworking for Outward Bound andbetween courses climbed together.Though I did not know it then, hewas carrying the rst prototypeFriend around with him four camson a shaft with no stem or trigger.It required four hands to get it outof a crack.

My rst experience of Friends wasmuch later, in 1975. Ray was verysecretive. He was carrying a blue nylonbag around which clinked and rattled.It was another hot October day. Wewere below Washington Column,about to make the rst ascent of Power Failure. I was sworn to secrecybefore the blue bag was opened andI was allowed to see its contents.

Rays prototypes were an oddselection. Some of them were

beautifully made with polishedaluminium, carefully led edges,sophisticated trigger assembly andeven J slots for holding the triggerin the closed position for neatnessand fast action. Others were gnarledand bent from use and testing, or

just slung together to try out somenew idea, but retained in thearmoury because they worked.

The name friends was coined by

Chris Walker when he and Ray wereabout to go climbing with severalclimbers who were not in on thesecret. Chris wanted to know if Rayhad the bag of goodies, but didntknow how to ask without giving thegame away. Finally he said, haveyou got the bag of Friends, Ray?.The name stuck.

After several disappointments in theUSA, Ray asked me to make Friendsin England. Much of the work we didtogether over the summer of 1977came to nothing. We could not ndanyone to extrude the 7075 stemalloy. Everything was too expensive.A simple nut with one blob of aluminium, two drilled holes, a singlepiece of wire and a swage cost twopounds (1977). How could I make apiece of kit with twenty seven hightolerance parts and a whole stack of holes and operations, and get it intothe shops at a half way realisticprice?

When Ray left for California inSeptember he must have thoughtthat yet another attempt to getFriends off the ground had failed,but a few weeks later everythingstarted to fall into place. Now I hadto go for it, the long unprotectedlead. I borrowed all the money Icould and got the bank to give mea second mortgage on my house.I had some stationery printed andstarted to place orders for tools andcomponents. Finally, in November,I took a deep breath and gave upmy job no runners on this climb either success, or a big, big fall.

Mark Vallance

Extract from an article published inthe 1978 Climbers Club Journal.

I prepared to jump, the weather was perfect,clear sky, hard frost and a scattering of snow.

Left: Ray Jardine making the rst ascent in 1977 of Phoenix 5.13a, Yosemite USA Photo: George MeyersRight: Mark Vallance onLeft Unconquerable , E1 5b, Stanage, Peak District, England 1979Photo: Pete Freeman


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8 THE CAM COMPANY

how cams work> designing the perfect cam

Right: Keith Pike onEl Matador 5.11a on Devils Tower, Wyoming, USA.Photo: Brian Bailey

Friction and Angles

If you place a ladder against a wallyou dont need to be a rocketscientist to know that if the angle atwhich the ladder makes contact withthe ground is too big, the foot of theladder will skid away and you will fall.Friction is what keeps the ladder inplace. You can verify this by taking aplastic ruler and leaning it against awall. The angle between the ruler andthe surface you place it on can varybut there is a point beyond which theruler will always slip.

The material that the ladder - or ruler- is made from, and the surface it isplaced on are important. A woodenladder on a concrete path should notbe much of a problem but if a metalladder was used on a polished ooryou would need to be much morecareful. There is less friction betweenaluminium and a polished oor thanbetween wood and concrete: a rubbertipped aluminium ladder would besafer.

To measure the degree of frictionbetween two materials - take forinstance an aluminium ladder and agranite oor, a block of aluminium isplaced on a slab of granite. Thegranite slab is then tilted until thealuminium starts to slide. The angle of tilt is measured and found to be 18.

Using this information, a device canbe made that will illustrate how theangle of contact is critical to staywithin the friction limit and hold in aparallel crack. Two rectangular alloyrods are bolted together so that theypivot. For convenience a handle isadded to pull on. Aluminium alloy isused because it is strong, lightweightand has better frictional propertiesthan other strong materials. Thisdevice will hold in a perfectly smooth,parallel sided crack, but only if the

rods are placed within the 18 anglewe have measured. For the sake of simplicity this is shown in twodimensions. (g. 1) Just as the ladderwill slip if the angle is too great, so alsowill the aluminium rod slip against theside of the crack if the angle of contactis more than 18. (g. 2)

(We use this principle when stemminga very wide chimney. Climbers canpress at a steeper angle because theyhave rubber soled shoes. See pictureof Matador opposite).

This device would have limited use asclimbing protection as it would onlyt one size of crack - but the conceptcan be developed to t a variety of crack widths by using several pairs of rods of different lengths (see g.3).If these rods are fanned out, afamiliar shape emerges - that of acam (g.4 page 11).

Designing the Perfect Cam

A cam, as used in engineering, is anyroller with an asymmetrical shape.What the climber needs is a shapethat will transmit the load to the sideof the crack at a consistent anglewithin the friction limit of the rock -what we call a constant angle cam.So what is the perfect cammingangle? To answer this question oneneeds to go back to the friction test.Aluminium slips on granite at 18,but if this angle were used the devicewould be at its absolute limit of friction in a parallel granite crack andwould not work in a ared placementor in say, a limestone crack. The angleneeds to be reduced a little. RayJardine originally used 15 on hisprototype Friends, which was goodon granite, the rock he was familiarwith, but didnt work as well in somerock types he climbed on in Britain in1977.

Fig 1.

Fig 2.

Fig 3.


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THE CAM COMPANY 11

After much testing, Ray and WildCountry decided on 13.75 (see g.5),an angle that worked well on mostrock types and allowed for use inquite ared cracks, in such rock asgranite and gritstone. Wild Countryhas never needed to change thisangle, which has becomeinternationally acknowledged as thedenitive camming angle.

Stability

Having designed the perfect cam weneed to make a workable piece of protection. A device using twoconstant angle cams rather than thetwo rods as used in the rst prototypewould still be very unstable. Friendshave four cams, which offer muchgreater stability in the same way asfour wheels is more stable than threewheels on a car. The width betweenthe cams also plays a key role in thisstability - compare a wide sports carwith a narrow van, which is morelikely to topple over. Therefore as partof the design of Friends the camspacing increases proportionatelywith the cam size, ensuring maximumstability throughout the range of sizes.

Plane of rotation

As the cams rotate about the axle

(known as the plane of rotation) theforce that they transmit to the sidesof the crack is directional. Friendsshould be placed - whenever possible- so that the stem is aligned in thedirection of the anticipated load fromthe falling climber, and directing thestem downwards generally worksbest. This is not always possible, andsometimes the fall may not load thecams in a downwards direction, butthe single stem is designed to allowthe unit to swivel and align itself correctly in most circumstances (seeg.6). If the load is not applied in the

plane of rotation - the cams can slipsideways. Remember the ladder. If you present the ladder other thansquare on to the house it will beunstable and can slip sideways asyou climb up it.

Walking

If you place a Friend in a smoothsided crack and move the stem, onepair of cams will grab the sides of

the crack whilst the second pair willslide deeper into the crack. If thestem is moved in the oppositedirection the second pair of cams willgrab, and the rst pair slide in deeper(g. 7). This is called walking and cancause a Friend to move into aplacement that is less safe - possiblymaking it move to a wider part of thecrack where the cams no longerwork. Because rope movement andrope drag can cause the Friend tomove, we use strong springs to helpto keep the unit in the position theleader intended. Sometimes the tiringleader may curse the designspecication but the springs havebeen carefully developed to providethe maximum placement stability.

Flared cracks

To go back to the friction test again,the same result would be obtained if

a block of alloy the size of a sugarcube or a block weighing two tonswere used. The angle at which theblock will start to slip is independentof the load applied. What this meansin practice is that if you place aFriend in a are and pull on it, and itdoes not come out, (and so long asyou do not disturb the placement),the Friend will hold up to the limit of the unit or the rock. To fullyappreciate this, think back to theladder. If the ground where theladder was placed sloped down hillthere would still be a spot where the

Above: Mark Vallance onAntenna E4 6a, Cornwall, England. Photo: Steve Foxley.Left: Stefan Glowacz high on the rst ascent of Odyssee 2000 , (9-), Polar Bear Spire, Bafn Island, Canada.Access to the route was by kayaking through arctic waters. Photo: Gerhard Heidorn

Fig 4.

Fig 5.



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Left: Mike Weeks,Man From Uncle (E6 6b), Pembroke,Wales, UK. Photo: Simon Carter, Onsight Photography.Right: Airlie Anderson on a one day ascent of Zodiac

5.10 A3, El Capitan, Yosemite. Photo: Ian Parnell

ladder would hold and beyond whichthe foot of the ladder would slip. Asthe angle at which the ground slopesincreases, there will come a point atwhich the ladder will never hold. Thesame is true of ared cracks.Depending on the type of rock therewill be an angle of are in which theFriend will never hold.

Getting them out

Weve all done it; crammed in aFriend in desperation knowing it willbe a real nightmare for the second.When leading, try not to place themin cracks that are too tight. Whenseconding, assess the placementbefore doing anything - you mightsave yourself a lot of trouble. If itlooks or feels as though its stuck,squeeze the trigger as hard as youcan before trying to remove theFriend. If this does not work and theFriend seems well and truly stuck, askfor a tight rope and/or clip intoanother piece so that you can useboth hands, or if on a shorter climb,


rappel down later. Concentrate onone pair of cams at a time and try tofeel or see if there is any movement.The oating trigger design of Friendswill enable you to do this as it allowsthe manipulation of individual pairsof cams on either side of the axle. Tryusing a nut key to free the cams. Usea pair of wires looped round thetrigger to pull on the trigger barwhilst pressing or tapping the end of the stem to release the cams. Trymoving or tapping the cams sideways- in the direction the axle is pointing.Dont get angry and dont give up,most cams can be removed withpatience.

Conclusion

Climbers develop skills in seeingopportunities for placing nuts andthe same is true of camming units.Whilst these skills overlap, they aredistinct. Some climbers can makegreat nut placements but, usuallybecause they dont fully understandthem, are less successful at placing

Fig 6.

Fig 7.

1

2

3

camming units. Selecting the rightsize of unit rst time requiresexperience and using them is a skilland as such needs to be learnt andpractised. Your safety is enhanced bythis skill.

Understanding how Friends work, thedesign parameters and the limitationof friction, cam angle and rock typewill help to increase your safetyfurther. As with all climbing gear,when the chips are down, a marginalplacement made with a completeunderstanding of the dynamics of cam design is better than noplacement and informed andintelligent misuse of your equipment

is better than having no gear at all.


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14 THE CAM COMPANY

Right: Andy Cave on Janus, E6 6b,Curbar Edge , Derbyshire.Photo: J Houlihan, Witness

Wild Country has always madeproducts that are relevant to theclimbing standards of the day andwhat grabbed our attention was therapid development of clean aid,speed and the big free ascents bythe Huber brothers, Leo Houlding,Dean Potter and others.

Smaller cams had proved invaluablefor these routes, but as weexperimented with our own smallcam designs we saw there was aproblem to be solved.Axle/termination design basicallyhadnt changed for 20 years andremained a barrier to theminiaturisation necessary to takecams on to the next level - realmicro sizes.

Traditional cam design had beenrestricted by the need to achieve themaximum strength possible to meetinternational standards. We neededto go back to basics, so we askedclimbers to build a wish list fromtheir perspective of cutting edgeperformance. During theseconversations it was size, weight,and exibility that were the keyelements, while interestingly,strength seemed to matter less aslong as they were, in climberparlance, strong enough.

Our engineers provided a solution.Their Direct Loading Axle removedthe weight and especially bulk of theold axle/termination design, allowinga much smaller cam-head to beused. A Flexistem protected thevery light wire rope needed for such

tiny units whilst a Guided TriggerSystem allowed condent triggeringwith minimal ex, essential forplacement and removal.

Strength

While every effort was made tomake Zeros as strong as possible,the radical design limited theamount of strength that we couldbuild into them, especially in thesmaller sizes. Zeros 1 and 2, whichare rated as Progression Equipmentand cannot therefore berecommended for free climbing.However similar criteria are appliedto test small nuts, for example RPs.Yet these are used extensively forfree climbing and are essentialcomponents of any rack.

Zeros 1 and 2 were designedprimarily to extend an aid climbersrack but with a distinct nod to thefree climber, and it is quite clear thatthey will perform the same role asthe RPs described above.

Function

We soon came to understand thatthese units were a step forward inour understanding of camperformance.As with any new device there was a

period of adjustment, getting usedto the new techniques necessary toachieve the best results. From ourtesting it became obvious that Zeros,unlike larger cams, needed adifferent approach.

We found it easier to place Zerosfrom a static position, for examplein aiders, than in the middle of adynamic free climbing move, andthe more gently the cams are pulledback, the easier they were to place-more like precisely placing a micronut than a cam.

Depth of Placement

Due to the small expansion range,we found it advisable to place Zerosso that we could view all the cams,to make sure they were seated well.Even relatively smooth rock has anirregular surface which can allowthe cams to expand out of range.Obviously the deeper the placement,the less visible the unit and thegreater the possibility the camsover- expanding.

Camstops

Zero cams are the rst micro camsto have cam stops rated to thestrength of the unit. During testingwe found that they performed animportant role in anchoring the unitin extreme direct aid placements.We do not recommended that this isthe rst choice of placement and

should only be undertaken byexperienced aid climbers.

Conclusion

We are now sure, Zeros are cleverenough and strong enough tosatisfy what cutting edge climbersdemanded, the ultimate tool in theirquest for more and more extremeadventures.

zero cam development> achieving engineering excellence


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16 THE CAM COMPANY

SizeNew Zeros take cam sizes smallerthan has ever been possible. Six sizesstart at a minuscule 0.22" (5.5mm).This ultra-small cam dimension is

achieved by using a new, compact,Direct Loading Axle whichamalgamates termination and axleinto one unit, allowing the cams tooperate without the hindrance of bulky conventional assembly.

FlexibilityNew technology was developed toprovide climbers with total stem

"New products appear from time totime that make routes easier and sometimes people claim these advances warrant grade revisions.After testing Zeros I know these claims are for real, Zeros will domuch more than we can yet imagine. Speed times will shrink and grades really will need adjustment.These are the indispensible granite tools for the 21st century."

Kevin Thaw

Above: Russel S. Mitrovitch climbingThe Joshua Tower , Bafn Island, Canada. The big walls of Bafn Islandoffer serious and remote challenges to modern activists. Photo: Russel S. Mitrovitch collection

zeros> the smallest cams in the world

exibility and complete control.This was achieved with a new,Flexistem system which overlays thewire rope stem. This allows exibilityup to the base of

the cam-head, minimising thepossibility of levering the cams outof shallow seams.

ControlFlexibility is of limited use withoutcontrol, and the Guided Triggersystem achieves positive

directional control of the camsthrough an innovative combination of exible springs and guides whichoverlay the stainless steel wire ropestem. These prevent bowing as the

trigger is retractedyet allow individual manipulation of the cams in restricted placements.


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>1. NewDirect Loading Axle allowscams down to a crack width of 5.5mm (0.22 inches).

>2. NewFlexi-stem system permitsthe most extreme cam placements.

>3. NewGuided Trigger systemallows total control of the camhead.

>4. Six Sizes Z1 through Z6 arecolour coded and include newexclusive 10mm Dyneema

double loop fast extending slings.>5. Incredibly light weight, the

Zero One weighs a mere 1ozincluding sling, lighter than awire-gate karabiner.

>6. Zeros are subject to a patentapplication.

Left: Zero OneActual Size.

Above: Computer Aided Design (CAD)enabled Wild Country to createour unique Direct Loading Axlemade from 4340 Nicromo steel andusing Nickel plating to protect againstcorrosion.

VersatilityTo complete the design of theseexceptional micro-cams, they weresubjected to a rigorous test regime.Zeros are small, but not too small forthe beefy, taped hands of a crack-climber. Zeros are colour coded forfumble-free racking. Finally, Zeros aretted with an ultra-light colour-coded 10mm Dyneema sling whichis bar-tacked in a double loop for fastextending when required.

LightnessThese new technologies, reducingcomponents, re-evaluating and goingbeyond the boundaries of currentcamming technology, have created arange of cams which are lighter andmore compact than anythingpreviously imagined. Sizes Z1 throughZ3 are all lighter than most standardbiners.The complete set (6 pieces) weighs 9.5oz(268gm) little more than a singleTechnical Friend 4.

2

3

4

1

5


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18 THE CAM COMPANY

Because Zero cams are different, itis vitally important that you readand understand the instructionssupplied with each cam.

Not all sizes of Zero cams complywith EN12276 and are thereforeclassed as progression equipment.Progression equipment must onlybe used for direct aid, this meansit must only be subjected to static

loads not exceeding the strengthas marked on the device.See specication chart for completedetails.

Zero cams may be damaged ina fall or, in the case of progressionequipment, the axle may bend whenweighted with a static loadapproaching the rated strength,and consequently should always

be examined before re-use.

If your Zero Cam exhibits signs of wear, defect, or bending, or if thereis any doubt about its serviceability,replace it. It is recommended thatany equipment involved in a seriousfall or weighted sufciently to causebending of the axle in the caseof progression equipment, shouldbe replaced.

Above: Dave Hesleden onDuncans Dyhedral attempting the rst free ascent at E4 6a an800m route on Cerro Mascara, Bader Valley, Paine, Patagonia. Photo: Simon Nadin

zeros are different

Above: Z1 and Z2 areshown at actual size


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THE CAM COMPANY 19

dynamics

A General Placement:It is vitallyimportant that all the cams make

contact with the sides of the crack,preferably in the middle1/2 of theirexpansion range (i.e. the cams shouldbe between 1/4 to 3/4 open) as theminimum breaking strengths inkilonewtons (kN) is tested at1/2expansion (refer to specicationchart on page 30).

You should note particularly that

when using Zeros rated asprogression equipment, theirexpansion range is very small andtherefore the margin of error isequally small. When placingprogression equipment inspect theplacement carefully to ensure that allfour cams are in contact with thecrack as stated above, payingparticular attention to the two rearcams which will be difcult to see.Avoid deep placements (particularlyZero cams rated as progressionequipment) where setting andretraction will be problematical.

B Maximum Strength: As a generalprinciple, in order to obtain themaximum strength from Zeros, theyshould always be placed with thestem in line with the anticipateddirection of loading. This will ensurethat the force of the fall will betransmitted directly to the cams intheir plane of rotation and will avoidadverse torsional forces on the stem(see g. B).

C Horizontal Placement and

D Vertical Placement: Zero cams aredesigned specically to work inextreme horizontal placements andshallow vertical cracks. Flexibility tothe base of the cams means notermination to lever out theplacement. But be aware theseextreme direct aid placements requireexpert training and may only supportbody weight.

Caution: When removing Zero camstake care to avoid exerting excessiveforce on the trigger mechanism, dueto the miniaturisation of thecomponents (particularly with Zerosrated as progression equipment).The trigger mechanisms are rated atonly 45kgs. You will nd a gentleapproach when placing or retractingZeros reaps rewards in speed andsafety.

B

C

D

A

Above: Dave Hesleden onCuernos Est , Bader Valley, Paine, Patagonia. Photo: Simon NadinBottom Right: Z2 in extreme vertical placement


20/32

20 THE CAM COMPANY

The most impressive feature (Technical Friends 5 & 6) is the cams broad axle. Combined withits stout cam springs and unique

tensioned trigger stop, this camhas unequalled stability - once placed, they stayed put. I liked toplace these solid beauties more than any other unit I tested.

Johnathan Thesenga,Climbing 183

Technical Friends are the culminationof 25 years continuous renement of the Friend that emerged from RayJardines Californian workshop in themid 70s. Every component hasundergone re-evaluation andimprovement many times over theintervening years Technical Friendsare lighter, stronger, easier to use andidentify than ever before.

An amalgamation of features, a singleNickel Chrome Molybdenum steel axle,a single exible stainless steel stem,CNC machined cams (including camstops) and Dyneemasling ensureTechnical Friends size for size arelighter than a double axle design. Thismeans you can carry more WildCountry Friends on your rack for thesame weight as fewer double axlecams, a real benet on long crackpitches and big wall projects.

Technical Friends cover thelargest crack rangeof any

manufacturer, from a diminutive 0.4inch to a truly awesome 7.64 inches.What this means in practice is, nomatter what project you are racking upfor, whether it be a fearsome off-widthor tips crack, Technical Friends offer arange of sizes which willcomprehensively cover any crackprotection situation.

Stability and therefore safety isachieved by a combination of strongsprings and incremental increases incam head width resisting rotation asyou climb past each placement. Thesefeatures, combined with a single axleand exible stem supported by aunique stem frame, ensure the camsare always loaded in their optimumplane of rotation maximisingpredictability and

safety with every placement.Complementing the mechanicalattributes of Technical Friends are wellthought out ergonomics. Directionalcontrol comes from the use of aoating trigger and unique stem frame,allowing accurate directional controlplus reliable extraction howeverdifcult the placement. Fastidentication and selection of thecorrect size is ensured by colour codedcams and Dyneemaslings togetherwith printed stem frames.

Put simply, Technical Friends provide acombination of lightness, range andsafety unequalled by other designs.

technical friends> the denitive range of cams

Above: Airlie Anderson onSeparate Reality 5.11d, Yosemite, USAPhoto: Ian Parnell


21/32

THE CAM COMPANY 21

>1. CNC machined cams with integralcam stops made from 7075 aircraftquality aluminium.

>2. Nickel Chrome Molybdenun steelaxle 85TPSI.

>3. Stainless steel axle nuts riveted fortotal security.

>4. Tuned springs resist walking withoptimum trigger pressure.

>5. Stainless steel axle terminationswaged to wire rope with 45 tonpressure.

>6. 7x7 Stainless steel wire rope,exible and corrosion resistant.

>7. Stainless steel sling terminationswaged to wire rope with 45 tonpressure.

>8. Impact modied temperaturetolerant nylon stem frame providesdirectional control and rigidity.

>9. Impact modied nylon triggeroats to minimise interferencefrom rope or rock.

>10. Flexible and light weight 7x7stainless steel trigger wiresconnect trigger to cams.

>11. Aluminium swage connects triggerwire to rigid L wire.

>12. Stainless steel L wire controls thecams and is recessed into the camproviding a snag free prole to thecam head.

Bottom Right: Detail of Technical Friends CNC machined cam stops which give passive strength shouldthe cams run out of expansion range in an inward aring crack.

7

1

4

23

5

5

9

12

11

6

8

10


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23/32


24/32

24 THE CAM COMPANY

Above: Chester Dreiman onSuper Crack 5.10, Canyonlands Utah, circa 1986. Photo: Ed Webster

forged friends> the original cam

Forged Friends have evolved directlyfrom Ray Jardines visionary designwhich revolutionised the climbingworld back in 1978. Despite theirnew colour coded cams, Dyneemaslings, cam stops and forged stemsyou might wonder why rigid stemscontinue to be made alongsideexible stem units. The answer isfourfold - price, weight, precisionand durability.

Undoubtedly a exible stem can beplaced in horizontal cracks withoutworry but with a little preparation(see Gunks Tie-off g E page 27)Forged Friends provide safehorizontal crack protection even inthe smaller sizes.

Experienced users of rigid stemFriends have also realised that thebigger sizes dont need a tie off at all, as burying the stem in ahorizontal deep placement puts littlestrain on a Forged stem, only

exposing the very end to the force of the fall (see g A, page 27).

Another endearing feature of ForgedFriends is the control provided bya rigid stem, ensuring preciseplacement and easier retrieval due tothe direct transfer of the triggeringaction through to the cams. Theindependent control of each pair of cams can be used to the full on rigidunits, allowing precise movements of the trigger to tease out even themost stubborn placement.

Dont dismiss Forged stem Friends asoutdated - the benets of thisoriginal design will impress you withtheir honest performance andpredictability.


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THE CAM COMPANY 25

"I remember when Friends appeared in the late 1970s. Back then I climbed in EB rock shoes,ared jeans and a tie dyed shirt,and I drove a VW van. The shoes and clothes wore out long agoand the van broke down too. But Ive still got most of my original Friends on my rack, 23 years later."

Greg Child

>1. The stems are forged into an Ibeam section increasing strengthwhilst reducing weight.

>2. Forged Friends feature colour codedcams with CNC machine integral camstops which give passive strengthshould the Friend walk and the camsbecome fully opened in aring cracks.

>3. The dedicated slings are made from12mm Dyneema and are colourmatched with the cams to aid fastidentication.

>4. Redesigned Cam proles ensuretangle free racking on the biggestof big wall racks.

Below: Ray Jardines rst workingprototype used in 1974 on a record oneand a half day ascent of the Nose withLou Dawson and Kris Walker. This earlyFriend bears a remarkable resemblenceto the current design of Forged Friendwith the exception of the trigger lock(later dropped from the design), and istestimony to the integrity of his originalconcept.

1

4

2

3

Above: Stefan Glowacz training on VW Bus , Smith Rocks, Oregon, USA. Photo: Uli Wiesmeier


26/32


27/32

THE CAM COMPANY 27

A Horizontal Placement:As a general principal you should avoidhorizontal placements where the stemis loaded over an edge. However thedeeper the Forged Friend is placed (seeg A) the safer the placement will be if you have no alternative. No absoluteson safety can be given when placingForged Friends in horizontalplacements and the safest practice is toalways use a "Gunks tie off" (see g.D). With experience you will be able to judge how vulnerable a horizontalplacement is, should you have to useone in extremis .

B WARNING:To avoid deformation or possiblefailure, forged stem Friends shouldnever be loaded as in gure B. Howeverit is possible to tie Dyneema cord(minimum 5.5mm diameter) into thehole near the cam head and use this toattach the rope (see g. D).

C WARNING: The strength of Friendsplaced in the vertical shallow (bottoming)cracks where it is impossible to alignthe stem in the direction of theanticipated load will be seriouslycompromised (see g. C).

Rigid stem Friends, the original design,have a reputation for predictability and durability. They are also lighter than most other cams of comparable size. Once tted with the Gunks tie-off (stem tied off with a slingthrough the hole near the head), rigid stems are more durable than any exible stem if you are logging a lot of airtime with horizontal placements.

Clyde Soles, Rock & Ice 109.

dynamics

D

A

C

C

B

Gunks tie-off

Left: Lucy Creamer onFlying Buttress Direct , (HVS 5b), Stanage Edge,Peak District, UK. Photo: Simon Carter, Onsight Photography.Top: Big Wall Rack. Photo: Topher Donahue


28/32

28 THE CAM COMPANY

3 Three SigmaThe Three Sigma Rating system is amethod of Statistical Quality Control (SQC)which we use to describe, analyse, andcontrol the rated strengths of ourproducts. For each batch produced, astatistically representative sample is takenand tested to destruction in accordancewith the relevant European Standard forthat product and/or our own approvedinternal Quality Assurance Procedures.

These procedures are an integral part of our Quality Assurance System. From thedata obtained from destruction testing, theaverage (or mean) and sample standarddeviation (which is a measure of variancebased upon the results obtained) iscalculated. 3 is three times the samplestandard deviation. When 3 is deductedfrom the mean result obtained, we canpredict the spread of results which wouldbe obtained if we were to destroy theentire batch (which is why we sampleonly!). We monitor this data closely frombatch to batch to ensure that the ratedstrength (as marked on the product) isalways less than the mean minus threetimes the sample standard deviation. Thisensures that the minimum breakingstrength for all products is consistentlyhigher than the rated strength as marked

on the product.

BS EN ISO9002 Quality Assured FirmWild Country is registered to InternationalStandard ISO 9002: 1994 (Certicate No.C/7545.Q/2678). This is the internationally-accepted model for Quality AssuranceManagement Systems, which has beenadopted in over 150 countries worldwide.

UIAA StandardsThe UIAA (International Union of AlpineAssociations) began the process of formulating standards for climbingand mountaineering equipment over3 decades ago. With the advent of thePPE (Personal Protective EquipmentDirective 89/686/EEC) in 1989 it appearedthat UIAA standards no longer had anyrelevance. However the UIAAhas continued to monitor and shadowEN certication and remains an importantinternational and independent referencefor climbing equipment standards.

CE CerticationWhere required by law (European UnionDirective 89/686/EEC- for Personal Protective Equipment).Wild Country products are type examined,tested and certied (see EN12276 below).

The organisation responsible for ourISO 9002 Quality System and CE markingis Notied Body No. 0120 (SGS UK Ltd.Ellesmere Port, Cheshire, CH65 3EN).

European Standard EN 12276

5.1 Test methodsAt least two frictional anchors shall beprovided for each test. If a frictionalanchor is manufactured in different sizes,each size shall be tested.

5.2 Apparatus for strength test

5.2.1 Layout

The apparatus consists of two parallel,rigid steel supporting jaws for theadjustable parts of the frictional anchorand of a loading bar with a diameter of (10 0.1) mm for the means of attachment,see gure 1.The static friction between the supporting jaws and the frictional anchor shall be

great enough to prevent the frictionalanchor from slipping through at the testload, but the maximal surface roughness

of Rmax shall no exceed 500m. Thesurface of the loading bar shall have anarithmetical mean deviation of the proleof Rmax = 6,3 m.

There are no surface roughnessrequirements for the loading bar whenthe means of attachment is other thantextile material.

5.2.2 Adjustment

The distances between the supporting jawsshall be according to the followingformula:

Position 1: s = bmin+[(bmax bmin)/4]

Position 2: s = bmin+[(bmax bmin) 3 / 4 ]

Where

bmin is the minimum adjustable width

bmax is the maximum adjustable width

If the range between bmax and bmin is

less than 5mm only one position accordingto the following formula shall be adjusted:

S = bmin+[(bmax bmin)/2]

standards and testing> wild country cams are tested to the most stringent

international standards

1. Loading Bar2. Supporting Jaws3. Frictional Anchor4. Means of Attachment

Fig. 1


29/32

SafetyThe safe working life of Wild CountryFriends may be as little as one use inextreme circumstances, therefore it isvitally important that you check yourFriends before each use. If any of thefollowing are detected you should retirethe Friend from use immediately and seekexpert advice.

a) Metal components: corrosion, burrs,cracks, distortion, broken or frayedcables, excessive wear, deformed stem.

b) Flexible stems: particularly check thatthe stem is straight and not sufferingfrom deformation, abrasion or brokenstrands of wire.

c) Textile slings: check for broken stitches,cut of worn threads.

TemperatureAlways keep products made wholly orpartially from textile elements below 50C

as the performance of the Dyneema fromwhich they are made may be affected attemperatures above this. Tests down to-40C show no permanent change inthe performance of this materialalthough it may stiffen while attemperatures below 0C.

Sea WaterIt is essential that all Wild CountryFriends are cleaned as soon as it ispractical after exposure to sea wateror any saline environment (e.g. whenused on sea cliffs).

Chemicals and Corrosive ReagentsAvoid all contacts with chemicalreagents as they will affect theperformance of this product (e.gvehicle battery acid, bleach. etc).Discard any product immediately if contact has or is suspected to haveoccurred (the product maypermanently weaken without showingany signs).

Maintenance

Wild Country Friends are not usermaintainable with the exception of cleaning and lubrication (whererelevant).

Inspect your Friends for the following -they may require cleaning and lubricationas detailed below:

a) Ensure that the unit operates smoothlythroughout its complete range of movement.

b) Ensure that when the trigger is releasedfrom any position the cams instantlyreturn to their fully expanded position.

CleaningFirst rinse the Friend in clean cold water of domestic supply quality. If still soiled rinsein warm water (maximum temperature40C) with pure soap. Thoroughly rinse anddry naturally in a warm ventilated roomaway from direct heat.

LubricationThe camming mechanism must belubricated periodically and after anycleaning and drying process. This willensure smooth operation and resistance to

corrosion. A kerosene based lubricantshould be sprayed between the cams anddirected at the axle and springs.Operate the Friend several times toensure even penetration of thelubricant. Allow to drain and then

wipe off any surplus lubricant. Avoidcontamination of the Dyneema slingwith the lubricant. If this occurs referto cleaning.

StorageAfter any necessary cleaning andlubrication, store unpacked in a cool,dark, dry, ventilated place away fromsharp edges, pressure, corrosives or anypossible causes of damage. Wetequipment should rst be allowed todry as detailed above.

ObsolescenceWild Country Friends will deteriorateover time in the course of normal useand because of this we are required bydirective 89/686/EEC to give aobsolescence date. It is difcult to be

precise but a conservative estimatefor this product is that it has a lifespan of ten years from the date of rst use for metal components or ve

years from dateof rst use orten years fromdate of rststorage for textilecomponents.However, pleasenote that the followingfactors will further reducethe safe working life:

Metal Components: normal use, exposureto chemical reagents, heat contamination,high impact load or failure to maintain(clean/lubricate) as recommended. Seeabove.

Textile Components: most textile materialsused in safety equipment are known todegrade gradually with time, even whenstored in ideal conditions. Additionallynormal use, rope burn, exposure tochemical reagents, exposure to elevatedtemperatures, high impact load, prolonged

exposure to UV light including sunlight,abrasion, cuts or failure to maintain (clean)as recommended will cause furtherreductions in strength. See above.

WarningIn accordance with EU Directive 89/686/EC WildCountry Ltd. supplies detailed instructions with allits products and recommends that the user readsand understands these instructions before use.If you are in doubt, require further advice orwould like a copy of the instructions for any WildCountry product, you should contact us at theaddress printed in this Cam Book. It is the usersresponsibility at all times to ensure that he or sheunderstands the correct and safe use of anyequipment supplied by Wild Country Ltd., uses itonly for the purposes for which it is designed andpractises all proper safety procedures. Themanufacturer or supplier will not accept anyresponsibility for damage, injury or deathresulting from misuse.

THE CAM COMPANY 29

safety and maintenance> always read and understand the instructions

supplied with each product

Wild Country Ltd. Reserves the right to modify without notice the design and specications of products described in this Cam Book.

All weights, volumes and sizing specications, where quoted, are nominal.

Wild Country Ltd. All rights reserved 2002


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specication> strengths, weights and dimensions

zeros Nominal Colour Expansion Weight Strength Cam StopSize Code mm / inch gm / oz kN Strength kN

Z1* purple 5.5-7.8 / 0.22-0.31 23 / 0.81 3 3Z2* green 7.0-9.8 / 0.28-0.39 29 / 1.02 4 4Z3 silver 8.5-12.2 / 0.33-0.48 43 / 1.51 6 6Z4 gold 10.3-16.0 / 0.41-0.63 50 / 1.94 6 6Z5 blue 13.0-19.0 / 0.51-0.75 57 / 2.01 9 9Z6 red 17.0-24.0 / 0.67-0.94 61 / 2.15 9 9

Patent pending. All sizes feature passive strength cam stops. All weights include dedicated colour coded Dyneema sling.

CE approved toEN12276

UIAA approved to125

3 rated

*Progression Equipment

Nominal Colour Expansion Weight Strength Cam StopSize Code mm / inch gm / oz kN Strength kN

00 Gold 1016 / 0.400.63 60 / 2 10 60 Blue 1319 / 0.510.75 79 / 2.77 14 110.5 Red 1724 / 0.670.94 85 / 2.98 14 111.0 Gold 1929 / 0.751.14 95 / 3.33 14 111.25 Purple 2133 / 0.831.30 98 / 3.43 14 111.5 Silver 2335 / 0.901.40 98 / 3.43 14 121.75 Green 2541 / 0.981.61 107 / 3.75 14 122.0 Red 2944 / 1.141.73 111 / 3.89 14 122.5 Gold 3355 / 1.302.16 122 / 4.27 14 123.0 Purple 4366 / 1.702.60 155 / 5.43 14 133.5 Blue 5182 / 2.003.23 178 / 6.23 14 134.0 Silver 64100 / 2.523.94 217 / 7.6 14 145.0 Red 84138 / 3.315.43 348 / 12.18 14 146.0 Green 118194 / 4.647.64 533 / 18.66 14 14

technical friendsCE approved toEN12276

UIAA approved to125

3 rated

Nominal Colour Expansion Weight Strength Cam StopSize Code mm / inch gm / oz kN Strength kN

1.0 Gold 1929 / 0.751.14 89 / 3.1 14 111.25 Purple 2133 / 0.831.30 94 / 3.3 14 111.5 Silver 2335 / 0.901.40 94 / 3.3 14 121.75 Green 2541 / 0.981.61 100 / 3.5 14 122.0 Red 2944 / 1.141.73 106 / 3.71 14 122.5 Gold 3355 / 1.302.16 120 / 4.2 14 12

3.0 Purple 4366 / 1.702.60 143 / 5.01 14 133.5 Blue 5182 / 2.003.23 168 / 5.88 14 134.0 Silver 64100 / 2.523.94 216 / 7.56 14 13

forged friends

CE approved toEN12276

UIAA approved to125

3 rated

GuaranteesWild Country guarantees all of its productsfrom new against defects in workmanship ormaterials, unless the product has been wornout, misused, or abused, as determined by ourexamination. Wild Country will repair orreplace any product as appropriate.

This guarantee is in addition to your statutoryrights which remain unaffected. Wild CountryLtd. reserves the right to modify withoutnotice the design and specications of products described in this Cam Book.All weights volumes and sizing specications,where quoted, are nominal.

Left: Alan Mullen onAuricle, Grade VI, Cairngorms,Scotland. Photo: Alan Mullen collection


31/32

Left: Nathan Martin on Pitch 2,Six Star 5.13b, Indian Creek, Utah. Photo: Jay SmithRear cover: Big Wall Hands, circa 1987. Photo: Uli Wiesmeier

Axle: The steel rod about which the cams rotate. See page 21component 2.

Bar tack: High strength stitch pattern used to sew climbing tapetogether.

Cam Stop: The load bearing stop which prevents the cams from overrotating when a camming device runs out of expansion range.See page 21.

Camming angle: The angle at which the load is transmitted to the side of aparallel crack. See page 11 Fig 5.

CNC: Computer Numeric Control used to programme automaticmilling machines.

Coefcient of friction: The mathematical constant that denes the degree of frictionbetween any two surfaces.

Constant angle cam: A cam which maintains the same angle of contact with thecrack face throughout its expansion range. See page11 Fig 5.

Dyneema: A high strength polyaramid bre which is weight for weightstronger than steel.

Direction of loading: The way in which the force of a fall loads a camming device.See page11.

Expansion range: The distance between the opened and closed position of acamming device.

Flared crack: A rock crack which increases in size either inwards oroutwards.

Forging: The process of heating metal before shaping it by pressure orimpact. See page 25 g.1.

Friend: The name given to the original camming device designed byRay Jardine and produced by Wild Country in 1977.

L wire: The L shaped rigid wire used to connect the cam to thetrigger assembly. See page 21 component 12.

Patent: An ofcial licence from a government granting a business thesole right, for a limited period, to make and sell a piece of equipment.

Plane of rotation: The area within which the cams rotate at right anges tothe axle.

Swage: The method of construction used to join the wire rope stemto the axle and sling terminations.

Stem: The component that connects the cam/axle assembly to thesling. See exible stems page 21 and forged stems.See page 25 g 1.

Springs: The components which push the cams into their fullyexpanded position thereby holding the cams against the crackwall. See page 21 component 4.

Stem frame: The component which supports the exible stem providingdirectional control. See page 21 component 8.SLCD: Acronym for spring loaded camming device often used to

describe Friends. See above.Termination: The component swaged (see above) to either end of a the

exible stem. See page 21 components 5&7.Trigger: The bar which pulls the trigger wires which retract the cams.

See page 21 component 9.Trigger wire: Flexible wire which connects the L wire to the Trigger.

See above and page 21 component 10.Walking: Process whereby the camming device climbs deeper into a

crack by reacting to rope movement. See page 12 gure 7.

Editor: Steve FosterDesign: vivid creative ltd. www.vividcreative.comThanks: Ray Jardine, Mark and Jan Vallance.

glossary> technical terms explained


32/32

an enormoustask it took

someone withextreme

motivation and

a passion forclimbingRay Jardine

on conguring aworkable device

I climbed pastthe top friendI jumped - a six

year secretwas out of

the bag

Mark Vallanceon the rst day

of the Friend

Ive still got

most of myoriginal friends

on my rack,23 years later

Greg Childon remembering

the late 70s

Zeros will domuch more

than we canyet imagine

Kevin Thawon the newZero cams

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