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WHO’S IN FASHIONWHO’S IN FASHION

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elcome to the new look Who’s In Fashion. With so many of our fantastic Students producing impressive work,

we decided to include more of this in our own mini magazine. From articles written by budding Fashion Students, editorials featuring garments by FBI Design Students, Hair and Make-Up by Students with a background in the closely linked beauty industry, to images shot by Students with an interest in photography - our vision is to provide a platform for FBI Students to display their infinite talent and refine their skills. Our first ever Fashion Editorial was conceived, produced and Styled by FBI Students. A big thank you to all FBI Students who were involved in our maiden issue and also to others from the Fashion Industry who lent a hand. We are very excited for what’s to come.

Alexandra

ED’S LETTER

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WHO’S IN FASHION

WHO’S WHO

OWNERSelena Mazuran

EDITORAlexandra Hine

CONTRIBUTORSKirsten Van Lint, Jane Nguyen, Natalie Shehata, Alex van Os, Jason Schembri, Mahsa Idelkhani,

Emma Fleming, Hayley Cooper, Dushi Uzelac

DESIGNJessica Bartholomew

181 Glebe Point RoadGlebe NSW 2037Ph: (02) 9566 2020www.fbifashioncollege.com.auFacebook: FBI Fashion CollegeTwitter: http://twitter.com/FBIFashionCollBlog: fbifashioncollege.tumblr.com

ABN: 53 117 217 517

Who’s in Fashion is registered in Australia. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without written permission. © 2010Who’s in Fashion disclaims any liability for costs, damages and loss due to this publication.

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hen Australian boutique and independent Fashion retailers underperform in sales there is the tendency

to look to larger Fashion retailers such as Myer and David Jones as a point of assurance for the Industry as a whole.

So, when even the giants record substantial financial losses and further forecasted drops for next quarter, what does this mean for the future of Fashion retail?

Since the economic downturn consumer spending behaviour has changed significantly and clothing retailers are suffering financially. Consumers have become savvier than ever about their spending habits and online shopping is a main catalyst.

It’s no secret that the online retail market has huge long term potential given the lure of cheaper prices when procuring goods direct from the source, rather than facing the increased price tag of selected local retailers due to taxes and mark-up.

If that isn’t bait enough, the convenience of shopping from any capable electronic device 24 hours a day, 7 days a week certainly is.

Online shopping in Australia alone is set to grow at twice the speed of traditional retail in the next four years according to PwC national digital leader John Riccio.

Riccio continues that offshore retailers account for 44% of total online sales in 2011, posing a real competitive threat to both small and large local retailers.

Key examples of the sartorial struggle are evident in the 65% share Myer acquired in the sale of struggling sass & bide. Fellow Australian female retail favourite

THE CHANGING FACE OF AUSTRALIAN FASHION

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Bettina Liano entered voluntary administration just a year after stating that the company was proud to still manufacture locally.

Those are just the well publicised stories. Cult favourite denim stockist That Store disappeared from Chatswood Chase and Bondi Westfield shopping centres overnight.

However, it is not just the movement towards online that is contributing; while there is still consumer loyalty for those who identify with a brand, its consumer confidence that is taking a hit. Roy Morgan Research published that consumer confidence levels as at August 18 2011 were the lowest since May 2009 – recession levels.

Although the Australian dollar is strong, consumers want to feel they are achieving value for money or they will demonstrate the power they wield in the Fashion arena by either ‘saving for a rainy day’ or directing their coin overseas where smart retailers offer free shipping.

CBA online data states Australian online retail sales in Fashion represent 13% of total online spending (behind other markets, such as the USA and UK), indicating there are still vast opportunities for businesses willing to invest the necessary resources in to creating an online strategy.

The data also confirms what we secretly suspected: it is mainly Gen Y and Z demographics spending in the online Fashion category.

Many bricks and mortar stores (those not operating on the online space) will need to evolve to the ‘click and brick’ business model that combines a traditional storefront with an online retail offering to stay competitively viable, especially with more retail giants (think Topshop and H&M) considering the Australian marketplace following Zara’s successful launch.

Myer Chief Exec Bernie Brookes has commented how this is the most unique and challenging period [in retail]; true, given that Australian retailers are more aware than ever they must find new ways to both minimise production and manufacturing costs and engage with consumers, whether this be a greater online presence or better service in store.

Fear not fellow fashionista’s as it is not all bad news on the Fashion frontier. New benefits for consumers are being forged both on the ground and the net, resulting in a wider array of choices at more competitive prices. c

Words by Kirsten Van Lint

“ONLINE SHOPPING IN AUSTRALIA ALONE IS SET TO GROW AT TWICE THE SPEED OF TRADITIONAL RETAIL IN THE NEXT FOUR YEARS.”

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rom Byzantine to Barneys and Bergdorfs, the Fashion world is being swept by a gold rush with the most

glittering and opulent jewels paying homage to this sumptuous era.

The artistry of the byzantine empire which lasted nearly a thousand years and encompassed the majority of the Mediterranean region can be defined by its intricate metalwork and ornate pieces bejewelled with precious stones, gold, and pearls. Versace and Lacroix made it popular in the early 90’s and now decadence makes a robust come back with these lavish baubles. The trend is incredibly glamorous and portrays vivid drama.

Karl Lagerfeld’s Pre-Fall 2011 collection for Chanel visited history’s most indulgent societies for inspiration. Shimmering like mosaics, models looked as though they had walked out of a Turkish grand bazaar adorned in embellished antique gold and chunky colourful stones of emerald and sapphire. The collection draws inspiration from Empress Theodora, the most influential woman in the empire’s history; and creates a cheeky parallel to Coco Chanel who back in the 1920’s drew inspiration from Byzantine history to create her jewellery. TVNZ’s stylist Michiko Hylands, an industry expert in the world of television and fashion styling explains how to wear these exquisite rocks, “This trend has something for everyone. You can easily glam up a plain outfit with some lust-worthy with as many

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Byzantinium looking pieces as poss! It’s up to you how you make it your own: just have fun with it!”

This trend is a celebration of maximalism and luxury. Look for aesthetically intriguing pieces that are highly decorative, encrusted stones, clashing colours and modern geometric edges that exude old-world charm. Pamela Love’s Gold Aztec Inspired Necklace makes a fashion-forward statement, Dannijo’s Lucas Ring is a simple way to add a hint of drama to your ensemble, and if you want to take it to the extreme Chanel’s metal filigree and freshwater pearl necklace with detachable belt will make any modern-day princess enviable. c

Words by Jane Nguyen

THIS TREND HAS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE. YOU CAN EASILY GLAM UP A PLAIN OUTFIT WITH SOME LUST-WORTHY WITH AS MANY BYZANTINIUM LOOKING PIECES AS POSS!

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AN ARMY OF PERFECTION

B ack in 2010 the annual FBI Parade and Graduation was closed with a

jaw-dropping avant-garde collection designed under the label Gnarlichist. Since graduating, Designer Emma Fleming has made the move to Melbourne, styled photoshoots and short films, and travelled to New Zealand to take part in the renowned World of Wearable Art Awards. She took some time out to share with us her journey.

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Solidifying her place in the world of art-as-design, Emma’s striking Doll Parts skirt was selected to be featured in the Avant garde category of the 2011 World of Wearable Art Awards held in New Zealand. Post award ceremony the garment was selected to be displayed in the official WoW museum in Nelson, NZ.

So what goes into creating such a show stopping piece? First 271 Barbie dolls were recruited from the op-shops of Sydney. Emma then played hairdresser - braiding their hair and placing it neatly on their left shoulders. The dolls were then spray painted black and drilled onto the boning of the skirt. The painstaking process was documented in a short film titled ‘The Army of Perfection’. The entire debut collection of Gnarlichist is a play on the notion of Fashion as perfection. Each year the FBI Design Students are prescribed a theme to centre their collections upon. Emma’s theme was escape – for her irrevocably tied with the eternal search for female perfection. “Words like ‘trend’ terrify me. Trends have the impact of encouraging people to stifle their individuality. My aim was to redefine escape as encapsulating more gritty and emotive feelings. Female perfection, from a very young age, is promoted by an ever-increasing collection of Barbie dolls.’’

When I ask Emma what she considers her day job she tells me that aside from pushing on with her label Gnarlichist she does a lot of freelance styling. She tends to get called up whenever leather, rock or fetish is the inspiration - dressing who she describes as taller, skinnier and tamer versions of herself. Emma has been keeping Gnarlichist alive by teaming up with

Sydney based photographer Yie Sanderson and shooting her stand-out creations in the contrast of the dense Australian bush.

Emma credits her greatest influence as the 70’s punk movement –Vivienne Westwood, the release of the Sex Pistols ‘Anarchy in the UK’, Sid and Nancy, Social Distortion and the New York Dolls. “I’ve always been inspired by these times, the people, their fashion, their music and their attitude”. And if she had the opportunity to work with anyone in the Industry? She lists Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier and Gareth Pugh among her top picks.

Emma coined the term Gnarlichist herself – a combination of the words gnarly and anarchist. Gnarly pertaining to something far out and amazing, and an anarchist a person who promotes disorder or excites revolt against any established rule. “These two words provide the strength and inspiration for how I live my life, how I create my Fashion and how I create my music.”

With so much accomplished in such a short space of time since graduating, we think Emma might be the next big thing in Australia’s youthful avant-garde scene. “I would hope that the end result for Gnarlichist is the development of inspirational ready-to-wear pieces, although this may seem incongruous with my label, as well as ultimate wearable pieces of art. I won’t be satisfied unless I have pushed the boundaries.”

Check out Gnarlichist at http://m.wix.com/gnarlichist/gnarlichist and http://gnarlichist.blogspot.com. c

Words by Alexandra Hine

“WORDS LIKE ‘TREND’ TERRIFY ME. TRENDS HAVE THE IMPACT OF ENCOURAGING PEOPLE TO STIFLE THEIR INDIVIDUALITY. “

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he old adage goes that two heads are better than one, so it’s no surprise that there are a lot of partnerships within the Fashion Industry. Some of

these pairs share creative responsibilities while in other teams there is a clear divide between the artistic and business aspects.

Another oft spoken piece of wisdom is to never work with family. Internationally, Kate and Laura Mulleavy the sisters behind Rodarte and brother and sister Nicholas and Chris of Nicholas K all choose to ignore this maxim to immense success. Thai trio Pim, Kly and Matina of Sretsis have added a third sibling into the mix and made a name for themselves in the US. Sretsis combines each of the sisters’ strengths with Pim as head Designer, Kly handling Marketing and Promotions and Matina collaborating her jewellery line for each collection. The label name itself is a reversagram of the word sisters.

Those in the celebrity realm are also fond of collaborating with kin. Think Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, Sienna and Savannah Miller. However the collective and well versed minds of the FBI Office staff could think of most of these collaborations a little closer to home. It seems taking up business with kindred partners is quite the Fashion on Australian shores. So why are so many Australian Designers refusing to take heed of this advice?

Ginger & Smart named their label in celebration of the combination of “opposing but complementary forces of hard and soft, empowerment and vulnerability, sexy and smart”. This description is perhaps a suggestion at sisters Genevieve

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“OUR STRENGTH IS THAT WE SHARE THE SAME VISION FOR OUR COMPANY AND WHERE WE WANT TO GO AND WHAT WE WANT OUR LIVES TO BE LIKE. “

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and Alexandra’s different natures. Gen entered the Ginger & Smart brand with a background in Design, previously acting as head Designer for Lisa Ho. Alexandra brought her extensive career in Media and Publishing to the table.

Despite this marked difference in each of the Smart girls’ skills, they both work together on all aspects of the business. Alexandra explains “We do sign off on all the Designs and Marketing together and our strength is that we share the same vision for our company and where we want to go and what we want our lives to be like.”

Gen and Alexandra, along with Simone and Nicky Zimmermann and Camilla and Marc Freeman are the more publicised familial pairings. Upon closer inspection and a little googling of the Australian Fashion Industry family tree there are many more Fashionable pairings than is readily apparent.

Brother and sister team Alex and Georgie Cleary of cult label Alpha60 didn’t have a classic Melbourne Designer inner-city upbringing. Rather their early years were shaped on a rose farm on the outskirts of Canberra.

Gabrielle, Cheryl and Vanessa Manning are three creative sisters from North Queensland with a shared edgy feminine aesthetic. The result is much loved Australian label Manning Cartell. In a family of all girls, the Manning name will live on through its inclusion in the label name, along with Cartell - a literary play on the term meaning a group with a shared interest.

Australian Fashion Designers are doing a pretty good job of dispelling the stigma attached to family business. Perhaps your future business partner is a lot closer to home than you’d imagined. c

Words by Alexandra Hine

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C O L O U R M Y D A R K S I D E

Photographer: Jason SchembriStylists: Natalie Shehata & Alex van Os

Models: Laura Tyrie @ Chadwicks & Caileigh Distin @ eMg

Hair and Make Up: Mahsa IdelkhaniProduction: Hayley Cooper

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M O D E R N O P U L E N C EPhotography by: Oliver James Minnett Styled and Designed by: Dushi UzelacModel: Aleksandra Punosevac @ Platform ModelsHair and Make up: Gestalt Hair Studio

DRIVEN BY HER LOVE OF ALL THINGS HIGH FASHION, FBI STUDENT DUSHI UZELAC HAS BEEN PRODUCING HER OWN OPULENT PHOTOSHOOTS. DUSHI TAKES THE FABRIC OF OLD HAUTE COUTURE GOWNS AND REWORKS THEM INTO A MODERN DESIGN.

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FBI PARADE & GRADUATION

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n a night befitting what had been a stellar year at FBI some of the Australian Fashion Industry’s biggest names delivered an inspirational end to 2011.

The evening was presented by iconic Australian Designer Josh Goot, the colourful Camilla Franks and former FBI Student and Australia’s Next Top Model mentor Josh Flinn.

The graduating Design Students displayed their diverse talent and style in an array of varied collections. The common thread throughout was the prescribed theme of ‘love’. This notion was suggested in bold colours, sheer drapery, ombre fringing and tailored leather.

The night was celebrated in style by Designer Phoenix Keating, ANTM finalist Simone Holtznagel, Cosmopolitan’s Fashion team and buyers from David Jones and boutique +ESTATEofMIND.

Guests raised their champagne topped glasses to celebrate the success of past FBI Student Victoria Cheatham and her exquisite jewellery label Lotus Mendes. Victoria received a $10,000 grant as a part of the annual FBI Fashion Business Initiative.

Once the formalities were over, Staff and Students alike celebrated the culmination of 2011 in true FBI Fashion. c

Words by Alexandra Hine

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Images by Oliver Trajkovski& Edited by Natalie Shehata

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BEHIND THE SCENES

ur first Fashion Editorial begins with an achingly early start and a long drive in our laden cars in search of a picturesque wooded patch. We arrive in Sydney’s west at the same time as the first hint of sunlight.

While FBI Student and our Hair and Makeup artist Mahsa works her magic on the models, talented photographer Jason scouts that beautiful dewy morning light. Our location for the day is a bold idea from production assistant and FBI Student Hayley Cooper – a farm home to not only that idyllic landscape we envisioned but even some livestock! FBI Stylists Natalie Shehata and Alex van Os begin the intricacies of unpacking the garments, Styling the set and giving their vibrant vision life. The entire team is on tenterhooks to see if the forecast rain will hold off. But with the colouring for the shoot so vibrant it’s impossible to let the darkening skies ruin the energy. The sky starts to spit and the fleeting sun clouds over, but the team takes it all in their stride and adjusts shots accordingly. After a long and arduous but inspiring day sounds a collective ‘That’s a wrap!’. c

Words by Alexandra Hine

A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO WAS INVOLVED IN THE SHOOT.

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Name: Elly McgawStudying: Diploma of Business with a

Statement of Attainment in Fashion DesignWorks in: Hospitality

Favourite label: Friend of MineStyle Icon: Erin Wasson

Dream Job: Stylist for an independent magazine

Name: Lana SaklaStudying: Certificate IV in Business with

a Statement of Attainment in Fashion DesignWorks in: Retail

Favourite label: Jeffrey CampbellStyle Icon: Blogger Christeric

Dream Job: Styling lookbooks and advertising campaigns

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STUDENT STYLE

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Name: Tara UtomoStudying: Certificate IV in Business

Works in: RetailFavourite Label: VintageStyle Icon: Erin Wasson

Dream Job: Fashion Buyer

Name: Bianca LaneStudying: Certificate IV in Business

Works in: InsuranceFavourite label: Akira Isogawa

Style Icon: Karl LagerfeldDream Job: At the moment a Stylist, but it

changes all the time!

BIANCATARA

t’s hardly surprising that FBI Students are some of the most sartorial people in Sydney. On any given day a number of Students worthy of being snapped by the most famed street style photographers walk through

the College doors. We talked to a few of these Students about their Career ambitions and their greatest style inspiration.

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Congratulations to the following Students who have recently gained Positions in the Fashion Industry through the FBI Careers Department.

Tahneal Tantos SHOP TIL YOU DROP Editorial Coordinator MAGAZINE

Ellen Jeffrey JAC + JACK Fashion Junior

Emily Cumming TAILORMAID Showroom Coordinator/ COMMUNICATIONS Receptionist

Ebanny Dwyer CHANEL Sales Consultant

Cassie Swann DOLLFACE FASHION Showroom Coordinator AGENCY

Anita Zacharia WHO MAGAZINE Fashion Assistant

The following Students have gained invaluable Workplace Training at some amazing companies in 2012 so far:

Rebecca Bunyan WILLOW Design Room Assistant

Dushi Uzelac BURBERRY Head Office Assistant

Cassie Vecchione ELLERY Head Office Assistant

Lexi Moran CHANNEL 9 Wardrobe Assistant

Georgia Forsyth EVH PUBLIC RELATIONS Showroom Assistant

Bria Mastroianni MARIE CLAIRE Fashion Assistant

Rachel Kingston HARPER’S BAZAAR Fashion Assistant

FBI CAREERS DEPARTMENT

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www.lotusmendes.com

FBI CAREERS DEPARTMENT

Fashion Styling, Fashion Buying, Fashion PR,Events, Fashion Design….

ENROLLING NOW

www.fbifashioncollege.com.au(02) 9566 2020