Whole Beauty - Atelier Sustainable Excellence

8/4/2019 Whole Beauty - Atelier Sustainable Excellence

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Inspiring. Driving change.21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 1

Atelier de sensibilisation lexcellence responsable.


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Inspiring. Driving change.

Agenda

Contexte gnral Situation dans lindustrie

horlogre et bijouterie Comment les marques sy

prennent ?

Prsentation du RJC Pistes de rflexion

21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 3


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Contexte



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Contexte
http://www.cinemovies.fr/afficheg-8956-3.html


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Contexte

21/04/2012 6 www.wholebeauty.ch

The Rapaport Fair Trade Conference, in BaselEtc.


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Initiatives et NGO



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Dfis dans lindustrie



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Pays avec des enfants travaillants dans les mines


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Dfis pour lindustrie

12 www.wholebeauty.ch4/2012

Social - La provenance des diamants (zone de conflits RDC-Kivu, Sierra Leone)

- Les conditions de travail dans les mines (travail des enfants et forc)

- Condition de travail dans les manufactures (chane de production)

- Traitement de certains matriaux (diamants, pierres)

- Corruption, blanchiment dargent

- Contrefaon

Environnement

et faune

- Disparition des ressources naturelles rares (diamants, or, )

- Protection des espces animalires.

- Contamination des eaux (mercure) et la biodiversit. (mines)

- Les processus chimiques de traitement des matires premires.

(galvanisation)

- Packaging, displays, documentation === > dchets

- Transport

- Magasins : ameublement / clairage / etc


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Quels sont lesopportunits ?

Cration de valeur conomie dchelle et optimisation Gestion du risque et mitigation

Amlioration des relations avec lesparties prenantes. Meilleure rputation et image de

marque

Avantage comptitif Plus grande productivit et efficience Nouvelles opportunits daffaires Innovation


Source : tude Wholebeauty 2009


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Quels sont les freins ?

Pas de compatibilit avec les valeurs duluxe? Un cot, pas un investissement Profitabilit ? Peur du greenwashinget manque decrdibilit Faible pression du march (consommateurs,rgulateurs)

Manque de connaissance, expertise, outils,indicateurs. Complexit de la chainedapprovisionnement

Conservatisme, maximisation du profit Taille et structure des entreprises21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 15



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Dfis des marques

Comprendre les enjeux. Convaincre le top management. Scurisation des ressources : budget,

quipe. Commencer : O? Comment? Avec qui? Implmentation & gestion du

changement Vivre le dveloppement durable. Mesurer & faire du reporting

Communication21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 16



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Quel est le

vrai dfi ?Christopher H. Cordey

WholeBeauty@ Sustainable Luxury 2.0

September 28, 2010


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Quel est le vraidfi ?

COMMENT

20

Tirer parti delaugmentation de la

population et de la

consommation et

travailler de manirecollective pour trouver et

implmenter des

solutions pour grer les

consquences ngativesassocies cettecroissance

?

21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch


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9 milliards de personnes nourrir en 2050.

Des 3 milliards de personnes en plus


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La migration de masse redistribue la

population mondiale


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Urbanisation: dici 2015 tout devient plus

grand


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Une population vieillissante, mais en meilleure

sant


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Raret des ressources


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Lmancipation la femme


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et Technologies


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Mega trends

1. Lexplosion de la dmographiemondiale et les modifications dedmographies socitales

2. Les changements climatiques et

environnementaux3. La crise nergtique venir4. La globalisation croissante5. Lacclration du dveloppement

exponentiel de la technologie6. Le modle Prvention desmaladies - Extension de la longviten mdecine



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Lexcellence responsable


Planification, organisation, gestionune compagnie de luxe rentable

dans le respect delenvironnement et lacommunaut, et ainsi contribuer la rduction des missions de

CO2 et au bien-tre de lapopulation.

Prestige. People. Planet. Profit.


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Inspiring. Driving change.21/04/2012 30 www.wholebeauty.ch

Notre vision

Un monde ouchaque acheteur

dun produit ou unservice de luxe vivra

une expriencedachat la foisextraordinaire et

responsable.Photo : AIM Leader


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Quelle est la

situation danslindustrie du

luxe ?



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Comment rpondent lesmarques de luxe/horlogerie ? 5tapes

1) Dfensif Its not our job to fix that

2) Conformit We will do as much as wehave to 3) Managriale Its the business !4) Stratgique It gives us a competitive

edge 5) Civil We have to make sure

everybody does it !



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Vers lExcellence

Responsable



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JA



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Mais...



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Audemars Piguet


Quen est-il ?- Campagne Dirty Gold ?

- Conflict free diamonds ?

- Principes dapprovisionnement des

pierres prcieuses ?- Dialogue avec les parties prenantes ?

-Audit de la chaine dapprovisionnement ?

- CITES (bracelets ) ?

- Responsible Jewelry Council ?

- Formation interne ?

- Communication ?


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Etape 2



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Etape 2 : Fred Meyer



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Etape 2 : Gay FreresSAS



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Etape 3



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Etape 3

http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/our-commitments/eu/fr


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(*) Source : web Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009

Etape 3 - 4


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(*) Source : web Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009

Etape 3 - 4


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Critres Cartier Tiffany&CoStratgie CSR

Objectifs tre un pionnier Style durable

Code deConduite

Comme Richemont Oui

Diamants Kimberley + additionalsystem of guarantee

Kimberley + LaureltonDiamonds

Mtaux prcieux Probablement Specific sourcingpolicy. Pas dor sal.

Position sur les pierresprcieuses birmanes

Effortscollaboratifs

Membre fondateur deRJC

Membre fondateur deRJC, Oxfam,

Earthworks, ARM,IRMA

Autres CITES. Seaweb (marineprotection). CITES.

CDP

Comment comparer?


Source : Etude Wholebeauty 2009


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Criteria Cartier Tiffany&Co

Programmespcial

MultidimensionnelSocial Comptabilit

programme

quipe CSR CSR manager Inconnu

Communication

Site internet / Rapport Site internet / Rapport

GRI reporting Oui Non

Emphasis(environment)

Produits toxiques,conomie deau,

distribution and nergie

Energie, emballage,biodiversit, eau,

dchetsEmphasis

(social)Droits de lhomme,travail des enfants,

sant et scurit, chanedapprovisionnement,

corruption et

blanchiment dargent

Formation continue,droits de lhomme,philantropie, achats


Comment les comparer?



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Gestion des

risques

Lgal Oprationnel Rputationel Protection de la

marque

Efficience

Rduction ducot du matriel

entrant, nergie,

transport

Increase laborproductivity

Cration de produits

durables

Respecterlvolution des

exigences desclients et des

partenaires

Innover pourchanger le

march

Intgrit duproduit

Les motivations daprs

Rosy Blue

Gouvernance, Gestion, TransparenceSource : Rosy Blue


Etape 3 - 4


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Etape 5



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RJC Process



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RJC Code of practices



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RJC Principles



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RJC Scope



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Benfices



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Question



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Recommendation

Dcider et mobiliser Oui ou Non (Si Non, quels sont les risques ?) Si, Oui alors

Quelle stratgie ? (C ou S) Quelles ressources ?

Champion interne project manager Budget

Mobiliser (int/ext) pourquoi ? comment ? Analyser, sinformer et comprendre

Situation interne (procdures, diamants, or, lois) +pays concerns

Carte des parties-prenantes. Veille concurrentielle, lgale, etc Les diffrentes initiatives, dont RJC

Sengager pratiquement



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Parties prenantes


Business

Partners &

Competitors

AdlerEmployees

Shareholders

Parent Co

Insurers

Banks

CEO Peers

Communities

The Future Kids

ClientsDistributors

Competitor

Suppliers

Industry Assoc.

Media

Politicians &

Regulator

Corporate campaigner

Thought leaders

NGOs

Investors &

Risk

Assessors

Rule-Marker

&

Watchdogs

Clients &

Community

Retailers


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Stratgies

Conformit

(suiveur)- Adhrer au RJC

- Self-assessment- Certification RJC+ autres lois,rgles, etc


We will do as much as

we have to

Managriale/Strat.(leadership

Approche stratgique

- Vision 2022- Mission/Obj/Strat

gies- Soutenir une

initiative(ethical gold

sourcing) Its the business Competitive edge


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Backcasting



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How can we escort youto leverage the benefitsof sustainability in your

organisation ?Christopher H. Cordey

Strategic Catalyst OfficerWholeBeauty SA

Ch. de Terre Bonne 1

1262 Eysins / [email protected]

Fix : + 41 22 550 29 62Mobile : + 41 79 457 37 61



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Christopher H.CordeyAgent du changement



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http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=5825986n&tag=related;photovideo


Situation dans


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Situation dansle luxe


Pour chaque secteur dactivit, dites si vous lassociez avec une implication

dans le dveloppement durable?

Source IFOP 2008


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HEC Lausanne


72% des europens sont favorables au marketingde lux sur Internet (Comit Colert 2009)

Analyse personnelle des 75 membres des sites

internet du Comit Colbert

Design et communications excellents

La durabilit est un lment central

50 ne mentionnent pas le dveloppement

durable 10 y font rfrence implicitement

15 y font rfrence explicitement

Situation actuelle: Communication de la marque


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Inspiring. Driving change.68

Ethics and Sustainability in Business - Prof. Christopher H. Cordey

La ralit actuelle ?


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69Ethics and Sustainability in Business - Prof. Christopher H. Cordey


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Quest ce que l

ExcellenceResponsable ?



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Responsable ?


People Planet

Profit


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Equilibre


People Planet Profit


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DriversEnjeux

FreinsOpportunits

Dfis


Drivers


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Drivers

Excellenc

eResponsable

Obligationssocietales &

morales

Cots et profit

Relationcommunaut

Pressions desclients

Rgulations

Actions desconcurrents

Gestion descroyances

Rchauffementclimatique



Enjeux par type


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Enjeux par typede produits


Source : Etude WholeBeauty. 2009


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http://hbr.org/2010/09/how-i-did-it-timberlands-ceo-on-standing-up-to-65000-angry-activists/ar/1

Qui sont les parties


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Qui sont les partiesprenantes dAudemars Piguet ?



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En conclusions

La consommation tique est encoreune motivation passive duneminoritdacheteurs de luxe; maisgrandissante et puissante!

Elles ont les moyens ($) de sengager. Elles ne sont pas seules ! Ne jamais sous-estimer le pouvoir des

millennials et du web 2.0. Lopportunit existe pour les marques

de luxe de profiter de lexcellencedurable, mais elles doivent relever ledfi

Ici et Maintenant !21/04/2012 81 www.wholebeauty.ch


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Etmaintenant

?21/04/2012 82 www.wholebeauty.ch


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Conclusion


Quel est mon rle et ma mission dans lasocit (sens gnral)/sur cette plante ?

Que puis-je faire pour contribuer faire de

cette plante un monde meilleur, plusinclusif, thique, transparent etrespectueux ?

Comment vais-je tre un acteur duchangement et ainsi influencer lesdcisionnaires de mon entreprise ?


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Christopher H.CordeyWholeBeauty SA

Ch. de Terre Bonne 11262 Eysins / Switzerland

www.wholebeauty.c

[email protected]

Fix : + 41 22 550 29 62Mobile : + 41 79 457 37 61

Merci

Nos activits


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INSPIRE Understand what sustainability is all about Understand the brand & sectors sustainability issues

Enlighten the top and mid management Outline the steps toward sustainability

FORMALIZE15 steps : Sustainable Development Strategy

Goals, Vision, Value statement, mission Benchmarking, budget Stakeholders definition, strategy and engagement

Key indicators performance, cost/benefit analysis, Implementation, feedback, optimisation, exit strategy

MOBILIZE Training, Education and incentive program Driving Change Workshop Mobilization Workshop

VITALIZE Review and optimize existing sustainability and CSR initiatives Leverage new opportunities Inspire staff and external stakeholders Encourage public commitment


Nos activits


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Presentation done by

WholeBeauty SA toMAS-LuxuryManagement

Chopard

September 4, 2009
http://www.hesge.ch/heg/mas_luxe/welcome.html


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Sustainability journey


DeBeers, Report to society 2007.


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On starting DeBeers




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On reporting - DeBeers



?


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How to proceed ?

TowardsSustainableExcellence

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(6) Focus efforts

(3) Vision, Strategy, Budget(5) Drive change,incrementally.

(7) Measureprogress(8) Report/Communicate

(2) Win the topmanagement

(4) Engagestakeholders

www.wholebeauty.ch

(1) Build awareness

O l i


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Our solutions

INSPIRE Understand what sustainability is all about Understand the brand & sectors sustainability issues Inspire, convice and get the top management committed Outline the steps toward sustainability

FORMALIZE 15 Steps : Sustainable Development Strategy

Goals, purpose, value statement, mission Benchmarking, budget Stakeholders definition, strategy and engagement Key indicators performance, cost/benefit analysis, Implementation, feedback, optimisation, exit strategy

VITALIZE Review and optimize existing sustainability and CSR initiatives Leverage new opportunities Drive change Inspire staff and external stakeholders Encourage public commitment


C l i


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Conclusion

Sustainable development is An art, not a science. A journey, not a quick fix (long term

view)

An investment, not a cost. A way to save costs. A must do not a may be

Now, strategic and progressive Simply good sense and risk

management. Everyones responsibility


E l i d


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Evolving consumer needs


There is a marked shift in the buyingpatterns of luxury consumers. Luxury consumers are becoming more

discerning in their purchases. This is also relevant in emerging markets,

like India and China. Brand value comes under closer scrutiny

as luxury moves into harder economictimes

Extending the philosophy of excellencefrom sourcing to disposal. Changes point to a tougher competitive

landscape for luxury players.DeBeers Survey, 2009

The move to discerning


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The move to discerningluxury consumption.


From what you wear to who you are From Design to Disposal

DeBeers Survey, 2009

C l i


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Conclusion


Dont ask what your country,company or other can do to

improve the state of the planetand the morality of the

business; decide what youwill do at your level to be moreresponsible, respectful and

accountable anddo it.

Adapted from JFK

Economic ValueSocial Value Environmental Value

Optimiz


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HumanResourcesdimension

Reduced environmentalimpact

Process &technologydimension

Enlightened client !

Responsible company Great quality and designproducts

Stakeholdersdimension

Increase income

Guarantee financing Reduce costs and expenses

Financial

dimension

Satisfied employees,distributors and retailers

Brand reputation and image.

Organisation capital (culture,leadership, alignment, teamwork)

Information Capital(IT, information)

Human Capital(Staff, H&S)

Manage risks

Optimized supply chainOptimized social inclusion,responsibility, participation,

collaboration

Optimized financial planningand organisation.SD Vision + Strategy

Optimize

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www.wholebeauty.ch 96

WholeBeauty Sustainability model www.wholebeauty.ch


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How responsible and

accountable are you ?


O t iti ?


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Opportunities ?

What if the marketing department becamethe internal and external change agent(in coordination/cooperation with CSRteam) to drive CSR within Swarovski ?

- Benchmarking vs other brands >>>Goodcorporation.com

- Sustainable marketing ? >>> Guidelines + education- Leveraging SCS 400 k members ? >>> Program- Sustainable Event Management ? >>>> Guidelines- Driving change within the organization ? >>>

Education- Formalizing reporting system ? >>> Tool + KPI- Communication ? >>>> Sustainability report.


S lt


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Survey results (*)

Organisation Structure : CSR coordinator, budget, etc. Norms and principles : ISO (14001 et 9001), UN Global

Compact, ILO Convention, SA 8000. Associations : CRJC, ARM, Colipa, Ore. Growing impact of measurement and communication Sustainable marketing : more and more developped : Communication: web, PR, and annual SRE reporting

Not so much involved (socio)DiversityStaff motivation

PhilantropyCorporate Governance

Not so much involved(enviro)Sustainable event

Sustainable packagingSustainable cleaningCarbon AuditMobility

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(*) Web + one to one interviews, 200 leading luxury and cosmetics brands. 15 % return rate. April 2009.

www.wholebeauty.ch

Ob t l t CSR


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Obstacles to CSR

21/04/2012 www.wholebeauty.ch 100100 WholeBeauty SA21/04/2012

IncompatibilityOstentatious,superfluousExcess and waste

Consumers arenot interestedThis a false belief!

Fear theGreenwashingEnsure deep

integration

Conservatism,GreedFear the unknown

Financial investmentIt is not a cost!

Risks

There are some risks tofail

Lack of expertiseCSR

Weak market pressure

No intense pressurecoming from consumers,legislators, etc

Supply chaincomplexityNumerous suppliers andlack of transparency

Psychological Real

Wh t t


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What we suggest

Meeting CSR responsible



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Corporate Social

Responsibility asa value creation

for luxury

brands.

Content


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Content

1 Wholebeauty : who, what, how

2 What is sustainability ?

3 Sustainability in the luxury industry ?

4 Case study

5 Future directions

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Tiffany & Co


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Tiffany & Co

CSR department ? Team ? Budget ? Seemingly, no communication related to

1. Envrionmental issues : carbon audit, etc,2. Social issues : H&S, diversity, equality,

consumer security, counterfeit, animal welfare,corruption, money laundering.

Lack of : figures. yearly objectives. real reporting. .



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2 What is sustainability ?

3 Sustainability in luxury industry ?

4 Case study

5 Recommandations stratgiques


What is Sustainability?


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What is Sustainability?

The economic developmentthat meets the needs of thepresent generation without

compromising the ability offuture generation to meet theirown needs(*)

The Triple Bottom line

People. Planet. Profit.


(*) Source : Btuntland, 1986

How is todays


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y

inbalance ?



Todays context ?


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Todays context ?


People Planet

Profit

A sustainable company


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A sustainable company



Triple bottom line


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Inspiring. Driving change.110 www.wholebeauty.ch

4/2012

Triple bottom line

PEOPLE

Sustainable

Bearable Equitable

PLANET PROFITViable

Why luxury brand need to be


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y yconcerned.

Sport is affected by climate change. Sport is inspirational & can be a

leader of change. Sponsors will start to demand it. Regulations will require it.

Costs will become unsustainable.



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2 What is sustainable development ?

3 Sustainability in the luxury industry ?

4 Case study

5 Recommandations stratgiques


Global situation


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Global situation


The Conference Board of Canada, Corporate Social Responsibility Review, p.5

Diamond Road.


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Rapaport


Events which urged company tot ?


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react ?

Exogenous event Exxon Valdez. Planned eventNGOs

demonstration outside Gap HQ in

San Francisco. ExposStories by investigativereporters Chiquita.

Perceived ThreatTiffany & Co. Perceived Opportunity Body

Shop.


Types of response


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Types of response

Responders: Bitten Brands BBsreact to a PR disaster by naming a CSRleader. Gap, Chiquita, Wal-Mart.

Reputation Managers Brands moveout to preempt threat. Risk/compliancemanager may report to general counsel.May work closely with industry.

Tiffany & Co. Proactivists Brand sees opportunity to

grow by selling CSR. Timberland, Eileen Fisher, Otto Versand.


Tiffany & Co. Case


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Iconic brand sells calm.Nothing very bad could happen to you there.

Engine 1:

Conflict Diamonds which led to Kimberley

Process.

Engine 2:No Dirty Gold campaign.

www.wholebeauty.ch 11721/04/2012

Tiffany & Co. Case
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.motortrend.com/features/auto_news/2006/112_news060607_01s_tiffany_and_company_logo.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www9.discuss.com.hk/viewthread.php?tid=4420220&h=125&w=200&sz=3&hl=en&start=2&tbnid=SQZK5cumjCZHYM:&tbnh=65&tbnw=104&prev=/images?q=+Tiffany+and+co+logo&gbv=2&svnum=10&hl=en


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y


- CEO Michael J. Kowalskiand VP Rob Headley

-Council for Responsible

Jewellery Practices-Initiative for ResponsibleMining Assurance

- Etc.

Stakeholders


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Stakeholders


How to proceed 15 steps


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1. Identify business goals and decide upon thepurpose of sustainable development

2. Define value statement and mission ofcompany, and refine internally with

management and employees. How does thelong-term vision match up with businessgoals?

3. Benchmark what your competitors are doing

on CSR?4. Decide on overall budget5. Identify key stakeholders




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6. Research: What are the latest businessstandards? Check out SA8000, AA1000,GRI, ILO conventions, WTO discussions,Caux principles, UN Global Compact and so

on. What are the key issues for us as abusiness and why?7. Identify CSR strategy for each stakeholder8. Revise budget accordingly

9. Carry out stakeholder dialogue10. Identify the key indicators to measure our

progress as a socially responsibleentreprise.




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11. Identify the costs and benefits of the proposals.12. Implement the activity or program ensuring thatit relates well to other proposals in the pipeline.

13. Research and develop a series ofadvertisements to show what we are doing in thearea of CSR and market the programaccordingly. Ensure that you can back this upwith internal consistent practices since this is adangerous pitfall if that is not the case.

14. Evaluate the social responsibility proposalsagainst cost/benefits.

15. Develop longer-term exit strategy


Perceived obstacles for


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SD


Usual response for not walking the talks. Inconsistency with luxury values

Cost/investment are high in period of crisis

Nothing is proven

Fear of greenwashing


Lack of expertise, time and KPI

Complex supply chain, we cannot do anything

Conservatism and greed Size of companies

Family run business

If SD was not simply


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If SD was not simply

a great opportunity to revise theway companies do and run

business ? about good risk management ? about good reputation

management ? a great competitive advantage ? a way to save costs ?


From compliance to


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profit!

M. Brunner, CSM/WWF Research Project: The Business Case for Sustainability, IMD, p.41


Cercle vertueux


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Cercle vertueux


Pralables

Engagement

Choixdes

Objectifs

Rflexion

Solutions

Investissements

Retour surinvestissements

R

Boucle de renforcement conduit vers une amlioration continue

Adapt de: G.,Octave & Co, Dveloppement durable, pour une entreprise comptitive et responsable,p153

Rsultats de ltude

O i i


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auprs des marquesOrganisation Ressources organisationnelles: coordinateur RSE, budget, etc. Normes et principes : ISO (14001 et 9001), UN Global Compact, ILO Convention, SA 8000. Associations en lien avec la RSE: CRJC, lARM, Colipa et Ore.

Mesurent limpact et les rsultats de leur stratgie La majorit a recours aux services de consultant ou montre de lintrt Marketing durable:

Les Parfums Givenchy Collection Ange et Dmon Clarins analyse du cycle de vie, lorigine et de limpact des matires premires

Communication: web, relation publiques et rapports RSE


Manque dimplication sociale

Diversit

Systme de motivation

PhilanthropieGouvernance

Manque dimplication environnemental

Evnement durable

Technique de nettoyage durable

Bilan carboneEmballages responsables

Mobilit dentreprise

Effet boule de neige


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Effet boule de neige


+ Bonnespratiques

+ Attention desparties prenantes

+Pressionsdes partiesprenantes

Evolution


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Evolution


WholeBeauty devra sappliquer rpondre ces besoins

Nouveaux BesoinsChanger la faon de percevoir le dveloppement durableComprendre les bnfices (conomiques, environnementaux etsociaux)

Prouver la rentabilit de la RSECrer un modle conomique, un cadre de travailDfinir un instrument de mesureAmliorer la structure et les processus dans lentreprise.Revoir le processus de production et les activitsdapprovisionnement

Contrler les fournisseurs et la traabilit des produitsGagner le support du top managementNommer un responsable/coordinateur en charge de la RSEServices dun consultant Etc.

Moteurs dechangementPression des partiesprenantesConjonctureGlobalisationManagementSocial

Key Success Factors


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Focus efforts

Develop a vision + strategyDrive change and changesteps by steps

Measure progressCommunicate

Towards

Sustainability

CEO & Mgt commitmentEngage ext + intstakeholders


130

Changementi l


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incrmental


Durable

Social

Ecologique

Non-durable

Dveloppementenvironnemental

Dveloppement

socia

l

Adapt de: D. Dunphy & Co, Organizational change for corporate sustainability,p.227

Changementi l


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incrmental


Durable

Social

Ecologique

Non-durable

Dveloppementenvironnemental

Dveloppement

socia

l

Adapt de: D. Dunphy & Co, Organizational change for corporate sustainability,p.227

Consommateurs


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Consommateurs


Clients potentiels duluxe

WholeBeauty devra sappliquer rpondre ces besoins

Adapt de: A. Renaudin, When the consumer meets the citizen, what stake for the luxury activity ?, p.5

Consommateurs (2)


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Consommateurs (2)General consumers 71% souhaiterait que les distributeurs choississent de prsenter

uniquement des produits responsable et sont prt payer une primepour ce service (TNS)

LOHAS (Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability) = cible idale

Luxury consumers Conscience envieonnemental et soical chez les consommateur de luxe

(Ifop) 30-40% des clients du luxe souhaiteraient acheter plus de produitsresponsables (De Beers)

Les consommateurs recherchent de la qualit depuis lextraction desmatires premiresjusqu la gestion des dchets

Les consommateurs dsirent simmerger eux-mmes culturellement,socialement et de manire plus philanthropique (De Beers)

Les clients espre une exprience saine lors de haque interraction avec

les marques de luxe (Deeper Luxury) Il sagit encore de motivation passive qui aura besoin dtre dveloppe

par le marketing des marques de luxe



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ClientsMatires

premires

Approvisionnement Production Distribution

Enterprise

Rcupration(distribution inverse)

Nouveau

march

Marketing Mix

Marketing traditionnel Marketing durableP d it R d tt t I t l t i l t i t l ( l d


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Marketing Mix


Produit - Rpondre aux attentestraditionnelles desconsommateurs- Qualit- Surpasser leurs attentes/dsirs- Offrir du rve

- Intgrer laspect social et environnemental (cycle devie)- Dveloppement cross-fonctionnel- Durabilit et responsabilit- Ressources et matire premires- Mthode DFE- Emballages responsables

Communication

- Atteindre le public cible- Emotion- Crer un univers de marque- Transmettre du rve

- Intgrer des lments rationnels- Eco-communication- Donner une nouvelle dimension au rve- Education des parties prenantes

-Attention la promotion dun idal fminin- Contrler la promotion des produits destins despersonnes majeures (vins et spiritueux)- Respect des donnes prives lies aux clients

Distribution - Distribuer le produit auxconsommateurs

- Optimiser les transports- Minimiser les dchets et la pollution- Distribution inverse (rcupration)- Slectionner des distributeurs responsables- Emballages de transport rutilisable- Mthode DFE

Prix - Exclusivit- Inaccessibilit- Gage de qualit

- Prix = responsabilit et produit durable- Nouveau rapport qualit/prix- Value Based Costing- Allocation des cots = mthode ABCInspir de : Donald A. Fuller, Sustainable Marketing, p, 89, 111, 113,

114


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Where to act ?


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e e to act


Changement climatique Sant et scurit li aux produits

Produits plus

quitables

Condition de

travail et scuritBnfices pour les

employs (retraite, etc.)

Droits delhommeDurabilit

Pyramide


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y


Vision

Mission

Code de conduite

Rgles et standards

Activits journalires

Inspir de: Shiseido, Rapport annuel,2006

Its all about ClimateChange


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Change


TOP 10 ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES :

1. Climate Change

2. Energy

3. Water

4. Biodiversity and land use5. Chemical, toxics,heavy metals

6. Air Pollution

7. Waste management

8. Ozone Layer depletion

9. Oceans and Fisheries

10. Deforestation

Source : Green to Gold, Esty/Winston

What is global warming?


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?


What is Sustainabledevelopmtent ?


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developmtent ?

- Good sense !- Risk management and

mitigation.- A way to be more

accountable.- Etc


(*) Source : Btuntland, 1986

Initial conclusions (2)


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( )

Sustainable development is An art, not a science. A journey, not a quick fix (long term

view)

A savings generator An investment, not a cost. A must do not a may be Now, strategic and progressive

Simply good sense Everyones responsibility : we are alla change agent and accountable forour actions.

143 www.wholebeauty.ch

21/04/2012



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( )

Cost savings : Can be generated short, mid, longterm.

Are a consequence of sustainbledevelopment.

Should not be a decision criteria toembed or not sustainable development.

Key Success Factors : Planning, Planning and Planning Time, Time, Time. Good sense, good sense, Good sense. Assessment, measure, optimisation.


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( )

Key Success Factors :

Planning, planning, planning !

Time. Good sense. Continuous effort.

Kaizen = continuous improvement.


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There is still time to avoidthe worst impacts of

climate change, if we takestrong action now

Lord Stern of Brentford, Stern Report, 2006


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21/04/2012 - MCI

Sustainable - mainchallenges


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challenges

Climate change Health and safety products Pension

Employees benefits Human rights


SWOT: Luxury and CSR


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y

Strengths Weaknesses

Client instruit et attentif

Produit de trs haute qualit

Marges financires : facilite linvestissement

Conscience des problmes

Envie damliorer les choses

Existence of fair trade associations (CRJP, CIBJO,

WBCSD,)

Luxe= Non-rationnelle, superflu et sans limite

Ingalit (riche-pauvre) dans le monde

Epuisement de ressources naturelles rares

Cible des critiques mdiatique

Condition de travail en amont de la production

Manque de connaissance des concepts durable

Entreprises familiales ou de petite taille

Le luxe nest pas en avance


SWOT: Luxury and CSR


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yOpportunities Threats

Devenir un pionnier

Intrt croissant des consommateurs

Attrait dans les marchs de lest

Intrt des employs

Soutien (gouvernement, banques,)

Crise conomique Changement de valeur

Globalisation (marque/tendance durable)

Amlioration performance conomique

Luxury industry could have a large impact because

of its role as a trendsetter

Inertie, on fait dj assez

Fraude, non respect des rgles en amont

(fournisseur)

Greenwashing

Increasing stakeholderspressure :

-Attaque ONG

-Propagation mdiatique

-Sanction gouvernementale

-La lgislation pourrait devenir plus svre

-


Legitimacy by sector


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g y y

151 www.wholebeauty.ch4/2012 Source: IFOP, Alain Renaudin

Stakeholders pressure


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Government (norms)

Luxury Brand

Community (local development)

Medias (New trend)

Consumers (responsible luxury)

Shareholders (sustainable investments)NGO(Diamonds, mining, human rights, )

Suppliers (responsible and motivated)Managers / Employees (working conditions,

diversity,)

Retailers (direct contact with clients)

Trade associations (norms&standards)

Overcome hurdels


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Non-sustainablecompany

Sustainable companywhich benefit fromsCSR advantages

Hrudels

Hurdles


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Incompatibility

Ostentatious, superfluous

Excess and waste

Consumers are not interested

This a false belief!

Fear the Greenwashing

Ensure deep integration

Conservatism

Fear the unknown

Financial investment

It is no a cost!

Risks

There are some risks to fail


No intense pressure coming

from consumers

Supply chain complexity

Numerous suppliers andlack of transparency

Psychological Real

Benefits


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Rputation Productivity Assurance contre risque sanction Value creation Long term development HR Customer

Profit Stay at the top


Specific Challenges


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Critical dimensions

Social-La provenance des diamants- Les conditions de travail dans les mines (travail des enfants et forc)

-Condition de travail dans les manufactures (chane de production)

-Non divulgation du traitement de certains matriaux

-Corruption: la haute valeur, la petite taille et la traabilit limite des produits permet

une utilisation non-thique comme le blanchiment dargent.

-Contrefaon

-Protection des espces animalires.

Environment -Disparition des ressources naturelles rares (diamants, or, )

-Le travail des mines peut contaminer leau potable des rgions concerne et menacer

lenvironnement naturel et la biodiversit.

-Les processus chimiques de traitement des matires premires.

-Peu de dchets (cases and boxes...)

Virtuous cycle


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Pralable

Engagement

Choix des Objectifs

RflexionSolutions

Investissement

Retour surinvestissement

Best practices


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Coach Bulgari Shiseido Gucci Tiffany Tods

Swatch Herms LOral LVMH Richemont

Complet sur quelle points: Manque:


Perspectives


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What if CSR was the mostimportant innovation of the 21th

Century?


Perspectives


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The economic crisis is a fracture period It can be used as a chance to evolve

We have to move from fast fashion to

slow fashion where goods are createdto endure for decades

Family own buseinss will be slower

New norms: ISO 26000


New consumers


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General consumers

71% whish that retailers choose to present only green products and are ready to pay for it

(TNS) LOHAS (Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability) = good target

Luxury consumers

Social and environmental conscientiousness in the luxury consumer segment (Ifop)

30-40% of luxury consumers wish to buy more responsible materials (De Beers)

Consumers look for quality form raw material extraction to waste management

Consumers want to engage themselves culturally, socially and be more philanthropic (DeBeers)

Consumers expect healthy experience in each interaction with luxury brands (DeeperLuxury)

It is still a passive motivation which need to be feed by luxury brands

Geographical consumersconcern differences (Globalscan)

United Stated concern about companies treating employees fairly and their environmentalimpact

China is concern about responsible supply chain / Trustworthy companies / Social

responsibility 161 www.wholebeauty.ch4/2012

Wholebeauty - offer


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Sustainable luxury

Wholebeauty - offer


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1 Analysis (Risk, Benefits, Budget,)

2 Development of a new Vision

3 Implementation (Initatives, Structure,)

4 Evaluation help (What to look for)

5 Marketing & Communication Strategy

6 Continuing improvement


Future needs where wecan help!


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can help! Conceptualized framework (Determine where and how to invest)

Strategic integration (culutre, all business units,)

Change mindset

Recrutement : Poor knowledge

Analytical Accounting to determine cost of responsible practces and revenues

Develop leaders on CSR

Control supply chain, decrease complexity

Organization : trade off Long term development vs short term actvites

Mdias : rapporter des info pertinente, non biaise.

Gouvernement : Dduction pour bonne pratique, baisse de limposition !?



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Thank you for your attention!


Ready to be sustainable?

Back UP


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Vision driven


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Vision

Mission

Code de conduite

Rgles et standards

Activits journalires

How to go there?


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Non-durable

Ecologique

Social

Durable


Environmental phases

Socialphases

Success factors


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S Sustainable luxury company

Focalise your effort

Keep a visionIncremental change

Measure your resultsCommunicate

5

success factors

Continuousimprovement


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improvement


Do

CheckAct

Plan


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Consultantdveloppement

durable

Consultantenvironnementaux

Bureaud'ingnieurs

Consultant social

Certification

ONG


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172

Our services


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Awareness building inspiration. Sustainable corporate strategies.

Operational driving &implementation.

Stakeholder brokerage.

Reputation management.



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Can you reallyafford not to be

concerned ?

Whole Beauty - Atelier Sustainable Excellence

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Transcript of Whole Beauty - Atelier Sustainable Excellence