To What Extent is H&M Changing the Face of Fashion?

Isabelle Rudd FASH20039

N0627868 Gillian CrosbyWord count: 3300

Abstract

Fig. 1 Screenshot of H&M Ladylike AW16 Campaign

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The research question ‘To what extent is H&M changing the face of fashion?’ was answered by researching the new and innovative methods that the brand has introduced, and analysing them further to evaluate the effectiveness of them. The findings proved that whilst H&M is innovative in terms of sustainability, some of its practises and operations do not relate to the values of the brands ethical ethos e.g. the way in which female workers in Supplier factories are treated.

The report concludes that whilst the brand portrays an ethical image, this could possibly just be a marketing tool to appeal to consumers rather than the actual intention of the company. Future research could investigate further into marketing tools and theories used by brands to help answer the question further.

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Contents

Abstract i

Contents Page ii

List of Figures iii

1.0 Introduction 11.1 Background 11.2 Aims & Objectives 11.3 Research Scope & Limitations 2

2.0 Methodology 3 2.1 Research Approach 32.2 Secondary Research Methods 32.3 Primary Research Methods 3

3.0 Literature review 53.1 Sustainability Literature 53.2 Consumer Behaviour Literature 5 3.3 Feminist Theory Literature 6

4.0 Analysis 8

4.1 Feminism and the Workforce Analysis 84.2 Sustainability Analysis 11

5.0 Summary 145.1 Conclusion 145.2 Recommendations 14

6.0 References 15

7.0 Bibliography 17

8.0 List of Appendices 19 8.1 Appendix 1: Gantt Chart Showing Time Management 19 8.2 Appendix 2: Interview Questions 208.3 Appendix 3: Focus Group Questions and Layout 218.4 Appendix 4: Questionnaire Questions 22

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List of Figures

Figure 1Screenshot of H&M Ladylike AW16 Campaign.http://i2.scotlandnow.dailyrecord.co.uk/incoming/article8918082.ece/ALTERNATES/s615b/handm.png

Figure 2Promotional Image from H&M’s Consciosu Rangehttps://deberbs.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/hmconscious.jpg

Figure 3Schwartz’s Moral-Norm Activation Theoryhttps://valuebeliefnorm.wordpress.com/2016/03/20/norm-activation-model-theory-nam/

Figure 4Screenshot from H&M’s LadyLike campaignhttps://valuebeliefnorm.wordpress.com/2016/03/20/norm-activation-model-theory-nam/

Figure 5Cries for help found in Primark Labelshttp://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/primark-sweatshop-cry-help-labels-3777724

Figure 6Screenshot of Primarks Ethical Valueshttps://www.primark.com/en/our-ethics

Figure 7Protests outside H&M Times SquareAsia.floorwage.org

Figure 8 Pie Chart Showing Percentage of respondents opinion

Figure 9.1Image of Consciosu label

Figure 9.2Image of Consciosu clothing In store

Figure 9.3Image on H&M recycling bin

Figure 10.1Product from H&M’s normal rangewww.hm.com

Figure 10.2Product from H&M’s Conscious rangewww.hm.com

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1.0 Introduction

1.1 Background

Over recent years H&M have adopted ethical business models such as the Conscious initiative and has released non-traditional campaigns representing its adapting consumer. CEO Karl-Johan Persson stated:

‘I am really proud of what H&M has achieved and the positive impact we’re making. We are leading the way today within several sustainability areas and I want us to continue to raise the bar’ (H&M Sustainability, 2017).

H&M’S ethical practises have not been carried out without complications – raising the issues as to whether the brand is actually sustainable and stands for feminism or if it is all part of a marketing tool designed to promote the idea of something great.

“H&M manufactures at least 600 million items each year and operates more than 3,200 stores in 55 countries. To operate those stores - not to mention manufacture and ship the clothes that fill them - requires a staggering amount of resources, from energy-hungry cotton  to electricity, oil, and water (Quartz, 2015).”

Alongside this, 100 workers from 8 factories in Cambodia and India were questioned and 100% reported that female workers were fired from their jobs during their pregnancy (Asia Floor wage Alliance, 2016).

This report will question and identify whether H&M are indeed changing the face of fashion industry or not. This will be carried out by researching into consumer attitudes towards H&M, how the brand promotes its values, as well as its marketing methods.

1.2 Aims and Objectives

The aim of this report is to research and critically assess the impact that H&M has had on the fashion industry, ethically, over the recent years.

Fig. 2 – Promotional Image from H&M’s Conscious Range

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The objectives set to reach the aim are

Identify the extent of H&M’s ethical ventures into sustainability and their effectiveness on the environment and human rights.

Collect and analyse data on the perception of H&M’s actions within the fast fashion market in the eyes of consumers and industry professionals.

Analyse the extent in which a retailer can adopt an ethical approach in a fast fashion market.

1.3 Research Scope and Limitations

Factors such as time and the size of the topic were limited when conducting this report. The time scale compared to the vast amount of resources available meant that not all of them were accessed, therefore limiting access to vital information.

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2.0 Methodology

2.1 Research Approach

This report will adopt a mixture of two philosophies; positivism and interpretivism. Positivism is one philosophy due to the need to arrive at a theory to answer the question: Is H&M really changing the face of fashion. This will need to be purely observational and the author must not be affected by the subject of this research. Interpretivism will need to be adopted due to the fact that organisations are unique, and the USP of the ladylike campaign must be considered, as well as that the motive for H&M actions (creating the campaign and how they do or don’t promote specific values) must be understood.

It is for these reasons that a Deductive approach has been adopted for this report, and therefore a research strategy will be designed to test the impact that H&M has on the Fashion Industry.

2.2 Secondary Research Methods

The secondary research involved in creating this report has consisted of a number of books and journals, as well as articles falling under the themes of Feminism, Consumer needs, Ethical Issues behind Fast Fashion as well as H&M’s reputation as a brand.

2.3 Primary Research Methods

The original research will involve the following:

Questionnaire design.The questionnaire will be composed of themes of attitudes towards ethics within fashion, consumer attitude towards H&M as a brand as well as reactions towards the ‘lady-like’ campaign. The questionnaire will consist of questions and will be answered by 100 respondents. The purpose of this questionnaire design will be to understand the effect of the most recent AW campaign by H&M, as well as whether ethics plays a part when choosing which retailers to shop with.

Interview with a H&M Sales Assistant of a UK store.This interview will be conducted to identify how H&M employees are treated, especially in comparison with H&M supply workers in Cambodia and India, and will be carried out with a female worker to further analyse specifically how women are treated by the retailer. This interview will allow capture an employee’s view on the conscious initiative and the methods of how it is sold to its consumers.

Observation.Following from the interviewee’s view of the Conscious range, an observation will be taken to see the Conscious range from a customer point of view. This will involve analysing the

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space and advertising allocated to the range in four H&M stores in Nottingham, Manchester and Amsterdam, as well as analysing any sales techniques aimed at the range by store staff.

Focus Group.A focus group will be conducted to identify consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion and perceived value of it – in particular, H&M’s Conscious range. It will involve presenting two groups of 5-6 people with 2 similar H&M garments (One being from the Conscious range) and collecting data on their views of which garment is sustainable based on fabric quality, shape, fit as well as other factors. This should conclude a brief consumer view of sustainability and the worth of investing into it.

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3.0 Literature Review

In recent years, H&M has been identified as a brand that is aware of current ethical issues as well as successfully identifying the desires of its adapting consumer. This review will focus on the major themes that H&M have concentrated on, allowing the brand to be thought as one that is changing the face of fashion. These themes are: sustainability of materials within H&M’s Conscious initiative and the rebranding of the modern woman in a number of campaigns.

3.1 Sustainability Literature

“Over the past decade, sustainability and ethical conduct have begun to matter in fashion (Emberley 1998; Moisander and Personen 2002); companies have realized that affordable and trend-sensitive fashion, while typically highly profitable, also raises ethical issues (Aspers and Skov 2006).”

Consumers have an increasing awareness of sustainability. The concept of sustainability is important in marketing and branding, since it can strengthen customer interest and loyalty. A great deal of existing literature has shown that consumers are willing to purchase eco-fashion products if green marketing is successful (Shen, 2014). However, despite this literature, consumers still seek out inexpensive fast fashion items after expressing an interest in sustainability – and the same applies for inhumane working conditions.

Kennet & Wolfendale (2011) expresses that it’s true that many individuals are probably aware to some extent that their clothes are made by people in harsh working conditions, abroad and at home, yet may simply continue purchasing ‘sweated’ items – not because they endorse the practise of ‘sweating’ but that the consumers do not seem themselves being able to make a difference or that their sacrifices must be made elsewhere. Kennet & Wolfendale also raise the valid point ‘should a single working mother three track down the manufacturing history of every article of clothing, every toy, and every food product she buys for herself and her children?’ And so the question is raised whether ethical and sustainable manufacturing really matters, or will consumers continue to look for the easy option?

3.2 Consumer Behaviour Literature

Joy et al, (2008) study states that whilst consumers are concerned about the environmental and social impact of their non-fashion purchasing decisions such as organic food and recycling, they did not apply such principles to their consumption of fashion. They exhibited relatively little guilt about fast fashion’s disposability, seeing little discrepancy between their attitudes towards sustainability and their fashion choices. This relates to Schwartz’s moral-norm activation theory of altruism to an extent that consumers have become more aware of environmental issues and have acted upon them – however, these actions do not illustrate Schwartz’s proposal completely as environmentalism isn’t fully embraced in all aspects of life, and the use of fast fashion continues to rapidly increases.

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According to the findings of Joergens (2006), there is little evidence that ethical concerns have an effect on consumers’ purchase intentions. The majority of the consumers seem more concerned on fashion needs than ethical issues, although there seems to be awareness on the topic, therefore supportive of the view of Joy et al (2014).

The concept of hedonism is one that seems to prevail during a consumers shopping experience. The objective of the hedonic shopping process relates to achieved satisfaction and pleasure, e.g. stimulation of joy, entertainment, fantasies and senses, but not a purchase of a particular product or service. This means that the hedonic shopping aspect is usually displayed through joy, which is felt by using the purchased product, or through pleasure and new experiences gained whilst shopping (Kazakeviciute & Banyte, 2012). Therefore, the pleasure of the physical experience of shopping is one that appeals to consumers than the pleasure of considering the ethical and environmental factors in shopping.

3.3 Feminist Theory Literature

Whilst the idea of what is truly ‘feminine’ has developed over the years, the original idea still prevails as the main example. Greer (1970) states that:

‘The stereotype is the Eternal Feminine. She is the sexual object sought by all men and all women […] There are stringent limits to the variations on the stereotype, for nothing must interfere with her function as a sex object.’

In order to signal their opposition to fashion, during the 1970’s feminists advocated more functional modes of dress, which eschewed adornment designed to enhance the sexual allure of the wearer. Constricting items such as bars, corsets, skirts, and high heels were replaced with jeans or dungarees, teamed with t-shirts or loose shirts and flat shoes. Preference was given to “naturalness” over artifice (Negrin, 2008). This is also established by Scott (2005) stating that feminists have criticised whatever the prevailing fashion found attractive, advocating instead for a more natural look.

Fig 3 – Schwartz’s moral-norm activation theory

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Welters and Lillethun (2014) states that “the strength of the feminist movement lies in the fact that they do not need to rely on such superficiality [...] They are fighting the oppression of society – a fight they will never win if they feel obliged to conform to the fashion that society imposes on them. Whilst Scott (2005) concludes that the natural approach does not need to be adopted to seek empowerment and equality, and fashion is an important mode of personal expression, not an indication of submission and that the meaning of dress and grooming habits varies according to each women’s place in race, class and history – Showing that whilst sexualisation and traditional femininity can be seen as the core of female subordination to some, it is not an indicator of someone of a lesser power incapable of advancement, but in fact a form of individuality and creative expression. The idea of having looking like a ‘typical feminist’ to be a feminist is outdated, and that they can in fact be feminine whilst still adopting feminist morals.

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4.0 Analysis

4.1 Feminism and the Workforce Analysis

TIME magazine called H&M’s Ladylike campaign ‘a celebration of femininity in all its forms’ (TIME, 2016). During the questionnaire (See Appendix 8.4) 82% of respondents stated that they liked the campaign and 50% stated that it improved their opinion about H&M. However, not all coverage about the campaign has been positive, with one source stating

“But while the video is undeniably fabulous, there is one looming problem. It’s an ad that, at its core, is designed to promote the idea that H&M stands for something great. By championing an empowering feminist ethos, the retailer hopes to sell its latest range and make consumers feel good about themselves when they buy it.” (Global Hobo, 2016)

This is due to H&M recently coming into the media for the way their female workers are treated in Supplier factories – Similar to the case of Primark in 2009 (See Case Study) A report by the Asia Floor Wage Alliance studied 12 factories in Cambodia and 4 factories in India that supply to H&M to identify violations of rights at work under the International Labour Organisation standards, national laws and the H&M Code of Conduct. H&M also states that about 160 million people work in its supplier factories and 60% of them are women (H&M Sustainability, 2017). Considering this, rights in terms of pregnancy are very limited. Many women are required to choose between leaving their jobs to breastfeed – thereby losing their only source of income; or to take their children to private day-care centres to be fed with low-quality formula milk. Workers from 11 of the 12 factories in Cambodia surveyed reported either witnessing or experiencing termination of employment during pregnancy. In India, all 50 workers from all factories reported that women are fired from their jobs during their pregnancy. Sexual harrasment was also a common issue amongst all 16 of the factories researched (Asia Floor Wage Alliance, 2016).

Fig 4 – Screenshot from H&M’s LadyLike campaign

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CASE STUDYPrimark opened its first store in Dublin in 1969 under the name Penney’s and today operates in over 320 stores in eleven countries across Europe and America. The brand state that it is ‘adored by fashion fans and value seekers alike. Primark is widely established as the destination store for keeping up with the latest looks without breaking the bank (Primark, 2017). Primark has become renowned for stocking large amounts of products amongst all product categories including babies, kids wear, womenswear, menswear, accessories, beauty and confectionary.

In 2009, Primark came under fire as it came to light that the brand was using sweatshops to make its clothing. Indian suppliers for Primark had their workers earning well below a suitable living wage, for long hours with some of these workers being children. Workers in Bangladesh were said to be working up to 84 hours a week, and some earning 2,200 taka (£19) a month before overtime – less than half the living wage in Bangladesh. (The Independent, 2009) This is due to suppliers being asked to produce and deliver items quicker and cheaper than ever before.

Alongside this, there have been a number of cases of shoppers discovering hidden labels in Primark clothing appearing to be cries for help –all though it is questioned whether they are genuine or not. The labels stated that the workers are fed food unfit for pigs and dogs and are made to work like oxen, causing Primark to investigate further. (BBC, 2014)

Since these issues have become known, Primark now states its ethical values on its website. It states that it has announced the start of a new partnership with the Department for International Development (DFID) to improve working conditions for garment workers in developing markets. Primark have also paid out $14 million in aid and compensation in support of the victims of the Rana Plaza building, which collapsed in April 2013, tragically killing over a thousand workers. The building housed several factories, one of which produced Primark garments (Primark 2017).

Fig 5 – Cries for help found in Primark labels

Fig 6. – Screenshot of Primark’s ethical values

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An interview with a former UK H&M sales assistant (from November 2015 to November 2016) was conducted how store workers from a developed country are treated in comparison to supply workers in an underdeveloped country working for the same brand.

Former part-time sales assistant for one of H&M’s stores, Sian Davis, stated that as female in a predominantly male working environment, she didn’t feel that she was treated differently due to her gender, unlike those who work for suppliers; however, Davis did feel that her contract affected the treatment she received, stating that full-time workers that had developed bonds with the managers were given less of a work load than the part-time staff who had to work considerably harder.

A report released by Cambodian NGO Centre for Alliance of Labour & Human Rights (CENTRAL) and Future in Our Hands also explores labour violations in 4 Cambodia factories, stating that workers at three out of the four researched suppliers were engaged through short term contracts with durations of two to six months, leaving them in vulnerable positions. Although engagement of more than two years at the same factory should entitle workers to a permanent contract under Cambodian law, several workers were denied this right (Clean Clothes, 2017).

In addition to this, Davis found the work-load generally was too much in terms of the size of the store and the amount of employees on shift. She stated:

“The store was always severely understaffed. My work load was often doubled or tripled as I often worked for 8 hours on the Children’s wear department which is supposed to have 3-4 employees covering it, as well as a department manager.”

The stress caused by the working conditions in the store affected some employees more than others, as Davis revealed one employee was signed off working at the store for 6 months due to the stress that it caused her. She stated that the labour turnover very high over the year that she worked for H&M, as many employees left to go and work elsewhere – including herself.

Fig 7. Protests outside H&M Times Square

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The study by the Asia Floor Wage Alliance found that almost all garment workers in Cambodia exceeded the 48 hour work-week, often without paid evening breaks during overtime shifts. In India, workers reported working a minimum of 9 hours and a maximum of 17 hours per day. Many of these workers far exceeded the 12-hour limit on overtime specified by the H&M Sustainability Commitment (Asia Floor Wage Alliance, 2016).

Davis stated that whilst there were benefits to working at H&M in the form of 25% staff discount, paid lunch hours, and few colleagues that she formed a good relationship with, the negatives of the job outweighed the positives by far.

All of the workers interviewed, stated that they were earning well below the national minimum wage, with workers in India earning less than half the sufficient living wage (INR 18,727 [USD 282.78] per month) compared to UK store worker, Sian Davis, who earned £6.11 an hour, well above the minimum wage for someone her age (£4.00 an hour for someone under 18 [GOV.UK, 2017]). This is despite H&M openly stating that they have a goal to provide a fair living wage across the textile industry (H&M Sustainability, 2017).

During the questionnaire 85% of respondents said that the way in which workers are treated in the supplier factories made them feel negatively about H&M.

4.3 Sustainability Analysis

When asked if ethical issues were an important factor when buying clothes 52% of respondents said no during the questionnaire. This proves Orzono’s (2014) statement explained in section 3.2, however not to its full extent; as the divide of respondents answer was almost split equally.

In response to the increase of sustainability, H&M now produce its Conscious range of clothing. When asked about the Conscious Initiative range, Davis stated

Positive feelings of H&M2%

Negative feel-ings of H&M

86%

No strong opinions12%

Fig 8. Pie chart showing percentages of respondents opinions

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“It was never something that we had knowledge on in the store, nor were we told to try and push sales of it. It was always just ‘another section’ of clothing to us and often got mixed in with the rest of the stock.”

She did state however, that the clothing recycling bins were successful - an initiative that encourages customers to bring in their unwanted clothing of any brand to be recycled in exchange for money off their next H&M purchase. Since launching the initiative in 2013, H&M have gathered more than 32,000 tonnes of garments to give them a new life (H&M 2017). Davis said that the recycling bins were advertised in store and easy to get customers to use as it provided them with an incentive whenever they donated a bag of clothing.

Following the interview, an observation was carried out across H&M stores as explained in section 3.2. Whilst the recycling bins where clearly presented in all stores (See Fig 9.3) alongside leaflets clearly displayed at Tills and store assistants promoting the initiative to customers in one of the Manchester stores, this was not the case for the Conscious clothing range. As Davis stated, it was often mixed in with normal stock across all stores with no clear section for customers actively looking for the range. It was defined only by a different colour label, which was often tucked inside the clothing making it difficult for those consumers who wished to shop sustainably.

Fig 9.1 –Image of Conscious label

Fig 9.2 – Image of Conscious clothing in store Fig 9.3 – Image of recycling bin in a H&M store

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A focus group was carried out to identify whether consumers could identify the difference between H&M’s normal and Conscious range and to see whether there was any percieved value in shopping sustainably. Initially, before seeing the products from either ranges, 50% of participants thought there was added value in sustainable products, however after seeing the products, 100% of participants believed there was value in sustainable products over H&M’s normal range due to reasons such as

Thicker material Softer Handle Overall better quality materials High quality finish on hems and seams

5.0 Summary

5.1 Conclusion

Overall, the aim of this report was to assess the ethical impact that H&M has made on the fashion industry. It is an issue that H&M promotes heavily, but is biased. Furthur research showed that much of which is advertised by H&M isn’t as positive as it seems, and infact, in terms of standards in supplier factories, have been neglected by the brand despite its values that are stated on its wesbite.

Other factors such as the Concious initiative are successful, with consumers clearly being able to be identify the added value in the products; however, H&M aren’t promoting the range to its full potential, with the specific products being hidden amongst the regular range

Fig 10.1 – Image of product from H&M’s normal range

Fig 10.2 – Image of product from H&M’s Conscious range

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instore and store staff holding little knowledge about the range. The recycling initiative however, is one that staff hold more knowledge on and is one that is clearly marketed instore, encouraging customers to use – which poses the question as to why only one sustainable initiative is receiving such promotion.

H&M has provided many ‘firsts’ in terms of ethical fashion and sustainability – It’s just how these are continued that seems to be the brands downfall, in terms of lack of factory visits and promotion. Being a brand that focuses so heavily on sustainability – and even has a website dedicated to it – this was especially unexpected whilst research was conducted.

It can be questioned whether H&M is purely using the idea of ethical and sustainable fashion as a marketing tool to appeal to consumers, or whether it truly is a matter close to the heart of the company that is still in the making.

5.2 Reccomendations

Looking towards the future, it is important for H&M to utilise their initiatives to their full potential, especially with the increase in sustainability awareness. As stated in section 3.1: A great deal of existing literature has shown that consumers are willing to purchase eco-fashion products if green marketing is successful (Shen, 2014). With this in mind, the Conscious range has potential to enhance its success, especially with consumers perceiving it to be of a higher quality as shown through the focus group in section 4.2. To do this, clear sections for the range should be marked in store, drawing the consumers’ attention to them, alongside increased external promotional activity.

With the internet being such a large, immediate platform, it is easier than ever for bad press to evolve. This, alongside the increase in ethical awareness, is a key factor as to why H&M needs to be alert and up-to-date with what is occuring within its Supplier factories and why it needs to continuously enforce its Code of Conduct. It is simple to tarnish H&M’s sustainable reputation through articles and reports if the brand is not in control of its operations.

Word Count: 3,3006.0 References

Books

Askegaar, S., Bamossy, G., Hogg, M K & Soloman, M. (2007) Consumer Behaviour; A European Perspective. Prentice Hall.

Aspers, P & Skov, L. (2008) Encounters in the Global Fashion Business. London. Sage Productions.

Bruzzi, S., Gibson, P H. (eds.), (2000) Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explanations and Analysis. Oxen. Routledge.

Emberly, J V. (1998) The Cultural Politics of Fur. Cornell University Press

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Greer, G. (1970) The Female Eunich. Harper Collins

Kennet, J., Wolfendale, J. (eds.), (2011) Fashion: Philosophy for Everyone. (s.l). Blackwell Publishing Ltd.

Lillethun, A. & Welters, L. (2011) The Fashion Reader. London. Bloomsbury Publishing Plc.

Negrin, L. (2008) Appearance and Identity|; Fashioning the body in Postmodernity. Palgrave Macmillan

Scott, L. (2005) Fresh Lipstick: Redressing Fashion and Feminism. New York. Palgrave Macmillan

Articles

Anon. (2016) Precarious Work in the H&M Global Value Chain. Asia Floor Wage Alliance. Available at. Asia.floorwage.org

Bain, M (2016) Is H&M misleading customers with all its talk of sustainability? Available at https://qz.com/662031/is-hm-misleading-customers-with-all-its-talk-of-sustainability/

BBC (2014) Primaark investigates claim of ‘cry for help’ not in trousers. Available at http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-northern-ireland-28018137

Clarke, G. (2016) Don’t fall for the new H&M campaign. Global Hobo. Available at http://globalhobo.com.au/2016/09/29/dont-fall-for-the-new-hm-campaign/

Ginmen, C., Lundell, C & Turek, C. (2010) Luxury for the Masses. Available at http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:318266/FULLTEXT01.pdf

Haynes, S (2016) This H&M Commercial Celebrates Femininity in All Its Forms. Available at http://motto.time.com/4502950/hm-advert-autumn-collection

Shen, B. (2014) Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain: Lessons from H&M. MDPI. Available at http://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/6/9/6236/htm#B15-sustainability-06-06236.

Sherry, F. (2012) Fast Fashion, Sustainability, and the Ethical Appeal of Luxury Brands Available at www3.nd.edu/~jsherry/pdf/2012/FastFashionSustainability.pdf

The Independent (2009) Primark faces new claims that it uses Sweatshop labour. Available at http://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/news/primark-faces-new-claims-that-it-uses-sweatshop-labour-1833843.html

J ournals

Baynte, J & Kazakeviciute (2012) The Relationship of Consumers Perceived Hedonic Value and Behavior. Inzinerine Ekonomika-Engineering Economics, 2012, 23(5), 532-540

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Cohen, A K. (2007) Designer Collaborations as a solution to the fast fashion copyright dilemma, Chicago-Kent Journal of Interlectual Property. Vol 11. Pages 177-185

Dubois, B & Duquesne, P. (1993), The Market for Luxury Goods: Income versus Culture, European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 27 Iss 1 pp. 35 - 44

Grubb, E & Grathwohl, H. (1967) Consumer Self-Concept, Symbolism and Market Behavior: A Theoretical Approach, Journal of Marketing Vol 1 Iss

Joergens , (2006) "Ethical fashion: myth or future trend?", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, Vol. 10 Iss: 3, pp.360 – 371

Websites

H&M Group – Sustainability: www.sustainability.hm.com

Primark:www.primark.com/en/our-ethics

7.0 Bibliography

Books

Askegaar, S., Bamossy, G., Hogg, M K & Soloman, M. (2007) Consumer Behaviour; A European Perspective. Prentice Hall

Aspers, P & Skov, L. (2008) Encounters in the Global Fashion Business. London. Sage Productions.

Bruzzi, S., Gibson, P H. (eds.), (2000) Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explanations and Analysis. Oxen. Routledge.

Emberly, J V. (1998) The Cultural Politics of Fur. Cornell University Press

Greer, G. (1970) The Female Eunich. Harper Collins

Kennet, J., Wolfendale, J. (eds.), (2011) Fashion: Philosophy for Everyone. (s.l). Blackwell Publishing Ltd.

Lillethun, A. & Welters, L. (2011) The Fashion Reader. London. Bloomsbury Publishing Plc.

Negrin, L. (2008) Appearance and Identity|; Fashioning the body in Postmodernity. Palgrave Macmillan

Scott, L. (2005) Fresh Lipstick: Redressing Fashion and Feminism. New York. Palgrave Macmillan

Articles

Clarke, G. (2016) Don’t fall for the new H&M campaign. Global Hobo. Available at http://globalhobo.com.au/2016/09/29/dont-fall-for-the-new-hm-campaign/ Ginmen, C.,

Lundell, C & Turek, C. (2010) Luxury for the Masses. Available at http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:318266/FULLTEXT01.pdf

Hope, K (2016) Could reinvention solve our shopping addiction? BBC. Available at http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-37891737

Shen, B. (2014) Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain: Lessons from H&M. MDPI. Available at http://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/6/9/6236/htm#B15-sustainability-06-06236.

Anon. (2016) Precarious Work in the H&M Global Value Chain. Asia Floor Wage Alliance. Available at. Asia.floorwage.org

Sherry, F. (2012) Fast Fashion, Sustainability, and the Ethical Appeal of Luxury Brands Available at www3.nd.edu/~jsherry/pdf/2012/FastFashionSustainability.pdf

Haynes, S (2016) This H&M Commercial Celebrates Femininity in All Its Forms. Available at http://motto.time.com/4502950/hm-advert-autumn-collection/

BBC (2014) Primaark investigates claim of ‘cry for help’ not in trousers. Available at http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-northern-ireland-28018137

The Independent (2009) Primark faces new claims that it uses Sweatshop labour. Available at http://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/news/primark-faces-new-claims-that-it-uses-sweatshop-labour-1833843.html

Bain, M (2016) Is H&M misleading customers with all its talk of sustainability? Available at https://qz.com/662031/is-hm-misleading-customers-with-all-its-talk-of-sustainability/

Journals

Cohen, A K. (2007) Designer Collaborations as a solution to the fast fashion copyright dilemma, Chicago-Kent Journal of Interlectual Property. Vol 11. Pages 177-185

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Dubois, B & Duquesne, P. (1993), The Market for Luxury Goods: Income versus Culture, European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 27 Iss 1 pp. 35 - 44

Grubb, E & Grathwohl, H. (1967) Consumer Self-Concept, Symbolism and Market Behavior: A Theoretical Approach, Journal of Marketing Vol 1 Iss 4

Kim, K., Ko, E., Lee, M., Mattila, P & Kim, K H. (2014) Fashion collaboration effects on consumer response and customer equity in global luxury and SPA brand marketing Journal Of Global Scholars Of Marketing Science   Vol. 24, Iss 3

Pookulangara, S & Shepard, A. (2013) Slow fashion movement: Understanding consumer perceptions—An exploratory study. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services. Volume 20, Issue 2. Pages 200 – 206

Catrin Joergens , (2006) "Ethical fashion: myth or future trend?", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, Vol. 10 Iss: 3, pp.360 - 371

Baynte, J & Kazakeviciute (2012) The Relationship of Consumers Perceived Hedonic Value and Behavior. Inzinerine Ekonomika-Engineering Economics, 2012, 23(5), 532-540

Websites

H&M Group – Sustainability: www.sustainability.hm.com

Primark:www.primark.com/en/our-ethics

8.0 List of Appendices

8.1 Appendix 1.

Gantt chart showing time management

Activity Oct Nov Dec Jan FebWeek

number10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 2

728

Development of topicsFormulate Aims & ObjectivesRead literatureDraft

19

Literature ReviewWrite Literature ReviewWrite up RMRFieldwork

QuestionnaireDesign and DistributionFocus Groups

Case Study

Interviews

Report RevisionDraft FMR

Write up FMRBinding

Submission

8.2 Appendix 2

Interview Questions with a H&M sales assistant.

How old are you?

What was your wage?

Which H&M did you work in and from which dates did you work there?

What was the number of female workers like in comparison to the number of male workers?

20

Where there many women that took higher positions within the store, such as managers?

How did you feel you treated whilst working at the store in general?

Was there anything you felt you were particularly treated unfairly with, such as work hours, sick days, holiday entitlement or in regards to any other members of staff?

Did you receive any staff benefits?

Were you required to push the sales of H&M’s conscious range or the clothing recycle bins at all?

How successful were either of these initiatives in store whilst you worked there?

Is there any other information that you feel would be valuable to this report?

8.3 Appendix 3

Focus Group Questions and Layout

Before seeing the garments

In your opinion, is there added value in sustainable products over non sustainable products?

YES NO

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Do you purposefully buy sustainable products?

YES NO

After seeing the garments with tags and labels covered

Which garment do you think is from the Conscious range?

ITEM A ITEM B

Why do you think this?

WHY ITEM A IS CONSCIOUS WHY ITEM B IS CONSCIOUS

After seeing the garments with tags and labels revealed

Is there added value for sustainable products over non sustainable products?

YES NO

Regardless of price, which range would you rather buy from based on these garments?

NORMAL H&M RANGE CONSCIOUS RANGE

22

8.4 Appendix 4

Questionnaire Design

Are you Male or Female?- Male- Female

What is your age range?- 18 and Below- 19-29- 30-39- 40-49- 50 and above

What is your opinion of H&M?- Positive- Negative- No strong opinion

Are Ethical issues an important factor for you when buying clothes?- Yes- No

Last year, H&M released a campaign fighting what the norm of what being 'ladylike' is. It features transgender, plus sized, athletic, and older models, as well as a same sex kiss. How does this affect your opinion of the brand?- It improves my opinion of the brand- I like it, but it doesn’t change my opinion of the brand- No strong opinions- I don’t like it, but it doesn’t change my opinion of the brand- It decreases my opinion of the brand

Last year, a book named 'Modeslavar' (Fashion Slaves) was published in Sweden. It detailed how factories in Cambodia and India, that H&M use, treat their female workers unfairly. Sexual harassment and workers being fired after falling pregnant were commonly reported issues. As a separate issue from the campaign, how does this make you feel?- Positively of H&M- Negatively of H&M- No strong opinions

After learning the past two points, what is your final opinion of H&M?- Positive opinion- Negative opinion- No strong opinion

Was this the same opinion as before?- Yes- No