Water Wise Gardening Tips:

1. Water-wise gardening is often referred to as low water use or xeriscape gardening. (see below)

2. Use drip irrigation and/or soaker hoses.

3. Water early in the morning.

4. Use timers or moisture sensors to control when you water.

5. Do not over water. Check with your water provider to see if they do water audits for the yard.

6. Add mulch to help retain water and control weeds.

7. Research the plant to find out its specific water needs.

8. Reduce turf areas.

9. Turn off automatic water timers before and after a rain fall until the plants are in need to of water

again.

10. Group plants wisely according to water needs.

XERISCAPING: is a conceptual form of gardening that uses drought-tolerant plants and grasses to

beautify a home or business. Xeriscaping may become the method all future gardeners will use to

develop their gardens as water becomes an increasingly precious asset to the world, especially in arid

climates such as the desert. Xeriscape gardening is as varied and beautiful no matter the location. It

does not mean gardening with only cacti, succulents and rock. It means to landscape a garden with

plants that use lesser amounts of water to help people lower their water bill and reduce maintenance.

ADVANTAGES:

Lowers consumption of imported or ground water.

More water available for other domestic and community uses and the environment.

Less time and work needed for maintenance effort (no lawns to cut).

Xeriscape plants in appropriate planting design and soil grading and mulching, takes full advantage

of rainfall retention.

When water restrictions are implemented, by municipality or water costs, xeriscape plants will tend

to survive and thrive, while more ornamental plants may be unable to adapt.

Can be visually more interesting than lawns.

Saves a lot of money

STEPS TO CREATE YOUR OWN XERISCAPE:

1. Analyze the site: The key to xeriscaping is to understand which plants' needs are satisfied easily by the

site, and the only way to know this is to determine what the site provides naturally, with minimal effort.

Draw a map of your yard (try to keep it to scale, if you can) and gather the following information:

2. Classify the zones: There should be three ways to classify every zone in your site:

Oasis - Close to a large structure; can benefit from rain runoff and shade (which reduces evaporation,

keeping more water in the soil); can also exist surrounding a large tree or at the edge of a forest/orchard

Transition - A "buffer" area between oasis and arid zones

Arid - Farthest from structures, low-traffic, receives the most sunlight

3. Select plants: Obtain a list of plants appropriate for your region. Use the USDA guidelines or the

Sunset Western Garden book for zone information. From that list, choose a variety of plants that will

tolerate drought conditions. Another way to approach it is to find out which plants are native to your

area. Remember that your site should be planted in receding "layers". Think of each structure (the

house, a large tree) as a focal point. At each focal point, you add a few bright, eye-catching species that

are still well-suited to local conditions. As you get further away from the focal point, the plants become

more subtle and also more drought-tolerant. As you're browsing lists of plants that are suitable for your

area, keep these design guidelines in mind, as well as the sunniness, rainfall, and soil type of your site.

4. Fill large areas with a lawn substitute. The typical green lawn is a thirsty and high-maintenance

"carpet". You can replace that carpet by restoring a native prairie or planting ground cover, or you can

use ornamental grasses which grow in clumps, surrounded by mulch (the idea being to only use grasses

as an accent, rather than make them the major focus of the garden). The area that would normally be

the lawn is usually classified as arid, so covering that area with low-maintenance plant species makes a

big difference.

5. Group water-needy plants together near structures. Preferably, plant them in containers so the roots

will get more water (rather than it seeping into the surrounding soil, where it can encourage the growth

of weeds); you may even consider using self-watering pots. The pots themselves can be decorative

accents.

An alternative to using containers would be to create a retaining wall (essentially a very large container),

which has the added benefit of making your oasis plants stand out more.

Arrange plants based on the amount of sunshine available. Some sides of the structure will get a lot

more sunlight than others. Since some plants can take more sun and heat than others, plant the more

sun-friendly, drought-tolerant plants where most of the afternoon sun will be located.

Develop a water thrifty irrigation system if necessary. Install drip irrigation to water plants. Water

evaporation is minimized thereby saving precious water for other uses. Also, the slower you water, the

less run-off there is.

6. Soften the boundaries. Fill the transition areas between arid and oasis zones with plants that fall in

the middle of the spectrum in terms of water and sunlight needs and aesthetics. One way to do this is to

create a "cascade" effect from the oasis plants (tall and bright) to the transition zone (a little shorter,

catching attention by texture rather than color, such as shrubs, bushes, or ornamental grass clumps) to

the arid zone (low-lying, subtle and very drought-resistant). If there is a retaining wall, however, a

transition zone may not be necessary. Ultimately, see what looks best to you.

7. Mulch for soil retention. Choose an appropriate mulch to help reduce erosion and suppress weeds.

Organic, wood-based mulch will also retain moisture. As it decomposes, it'll improve the soil over time,

but it needs to be replaced regularly. A stone or gravel mulch, on the other hand, does not need to be

replaced, but it should be lined with landscape fabric in order to keep weeds from growing through the

mulch, and it will retain a good deal of heat (which can damage delicate plants). It also attracts fewer

insects

Plant Info

Palm trees have been used in the California landscape for years. They have mostly

been used to create a tropical look; however there are many palms that

complement the new age look of a drought tolerant garden.

Types of Palms:

Archontophoenix Cunninghamiana (King Palm) Zones 21-24 *certain zones – full to partial sun and

moderate water

Arecastrum Romanzoffianum (Queen Palm) Zones 8-9 – full sun and average water.

Brahea Armata (Mexican Blue Palm) Zones 10, 12-17, 19-29 – full sun and moderate to minimal

water.

Butia Capitata (Pindo or Jelly Palm) Zones 8, 9, 12-28 – full to partial sun and moderate water.

Chamaerops Humilis (Mediterranean Fan Palm) Zones 4-31 – full to partial sun and moderate water.

Cycas Revoluta (Sago Palm) Zones 8-29 – full to partial sun and moderate wáter.

Dracaena Draco (Dragon Tree) Zone 16, 17, 21-24 Zones vary by species – full to partial sun or shade

and minimal to moderate water.

Jubaea Chilensis (Chilean Wine Palm) Zones 12-25, 27-30 – full sun and moderate water.

Kentia Palm *Inland shade, Costal, Full Sun average water.

Livistona Chinensis (Chinese Fountain Palm) Zone 9, 13-17, 19-24 – full sun and moderate water.

Phoenix Canariensis (Canary Date Palm) Zones vary by species – full sun and moderate water.

Phoenix Robellini (Pigmy Date Palm) Zones 23-25, 27 – full sun and moderate water.

Rhapis Palm (Lady Palm) Zone 12-17, 19-28 – partial sun and moderate water.

Trachycarpus Fortunei (Windmill Palm) Zones 4-24, 26-31 – full to partial sun and moderate water.

Washington Robusta (Mexican Fan Palm) Zones 8-28- full sun and moderate to minimal wáter.

Today with California’s water shortage, Waterwise gardens have become almost

mandatory. We grow a large variety of succulents that can enhance the yard with

a fun and colorful look and keep you water bill down. Please see our list of

products we sell in our plant library section.

Succulent species information:

AGAVE: Sculptural succulents with rosettes of fleshy leaves. Impressive, sometimes colorful, flower stalk

emerges from the rosette’s center looking something like a giant asparagus; some kinds produce clusters

of flowers on side branches, while others have flowers packed along the stalk. After flowering’ which

may not occur for years’ the foliage clump dies, usually leaving behind suckers that make new plants.

These plants shrivel from serious drought but plump up again with watering or rainfall. Provide good

drainage. Species listed here are native to Mexico, except as noted.

ALOE: Primarily South African natives, the aloes range from 6-in. miniatures to trees; all form clumps of

fleshy, pointed leaves and bear branched or unbranched clusters of orange, yellow, cream, or red

flowers. Different species bloom every month; biggest show comes from midwinter through summer.

Leaves may be green or gray green, often strikingly banded or streaked with contrasting colors. Showy

and easy to grow in well-drained soil in reasonably frost-free areas; need little water but can take more.

Except as noted, give full sun in cooler climates, light shade in hotter regions. Where winters are too cold

for all-year outdoor culture, grow in pots and shelter from frosts. Most kinds make outstanding container

plants. Highly valued as ornamentals, in the ground or in pots.

CRASSULA: Most are from South Africa. All have succulent foliage; many have strange geometric forms.

Need good drainage. May not survive winter frosts without overhead protection. To cope with extreme

summer heat in desert zones 12 and 13, grow in pots or coolest sites (such as a northern exposure).

ECHEVERIA: Mexican natives that form rosettes of fleshy green or gray-green leaves, often marked with

deeper colors. Long, slender, sometimes branched clusters of bell-shaped, nodding flowers, usually pink,

red, or yellow. Good in rock gardens. Those that grow in desert zone 12 need cool spot, partial shade.

Those suitable for low desert—Zone 13—need extra attention. Some types make good houseplants.

EUPHORBIA: Flower is technically a cyathium, consisting of fused bracts that form a cup around the

much-reduced true flowers. Cyathia may appear singly or in clusters. In some cases, as with poinsettia (E.

pulcherrima), additional bracts below provide most of the color. Fruit is usually a dry capsule that

releases seeds explosively, shooting them up to several feet away. Many euphorbias are succulents;

these often mimic cacti in appearance and are as diverse in form and size. All euphorbias have milky

white sap that is irritating on contact or toxic if ingested (degree of irritation or toxicity varies, depending

on species). Before using cut flowers in arrangements, dip stems in boiling water or hold in a flame for a

few seconds to prevent sap bleed. All need well-drained soil.

HAWORTHIA: Small, rosette-forming succulents from South Africa. Many types produce offsets to form

dense, spreading colonies. Fleshy leaves may be slender and rough textured or pillow like and smooth;

some have small white bumps or ridges. Tiny flowers are held on long, whip-like stems from spring to

fall; these may be clipped off as they fade to keep plants tidy. Haworthia’s are well suited to containers,

and their small size and tolerance of low humidity make them good houseplants. In pots or in the ground,

provide sandy, fast-draining soil that is allowed to dry between watering’s. Protect from frost and hot

sun. Acclimate nursery plants to the garden gradually or leaves may sunburn. Numerous species and

hybrids make these variable plants popular with collectors.

KALANCHOE: Succulent green leaves (often with scalloped edges or unusual shapes) and typically bell-

shaped flowers mark these perennials. Some kinds are marketed as houseplants but can be planted

outdoors where winters are mild. In Zone 13, grow in a shady spot. In borderline climates, give protection

of lath, eaves, or other overhead structure.

PORTULACARIA: Low-growing, fleshy plants. One is called a weed but can be used in cooking and salads.

The others are grown for their brilliant flowers, on display from late spring until frost; generally, the

blossoms open fully in bright light and close by midafternoon in hot weather. The various plants

described here thrive in high temperatures, intense sunlight. Not fussy about soil. Bright-flowered types

are attractive in rock gardens, parking strips, hanging baskets, or as edgings and bank covers; they don’t

require deadheading to prolong bloom.

SEDUM: Native to many parts of the world. Some are quite hardy to cold, others fairly tender; some are

tiny and trailing, others much larger and upright. Fleshy leaves are evergreen (unless otherwise noted)

but highly variable in size, shape, and color. Typically small, star-shaped flowers, sometimes brightly

colored, are usually borne in fairly large clusters.

SEMPERVIVIUM: Native to the mountains of Europe. Form tightly packed rosettes of fleshy, evergreen

leaves; spread by little offsets that cluster around parent rosette. Clustered, star shaped summer flowers

in white, yellowish, pink, red, or greenish; pretty in detail but not showy. Blooming rosettes die after

setting seed, but offsets (easily detached and replanted) carry on. Many species, all good in rock gardens,

pots, even in pockets in boulders or pieces of porous rock. Need excellent drainage. Water only to

prevent shriveling. Protect from full sun in hot desert regions.

*** All information has been gathered online with the use of Sunset Western Garden book and Google***

Southern California Zone Information:

ZONE 7: California’s Gray Pine Belt, Oregon’s Rogue River Valley, and Southern California mountains

ZONE 11: Medium to high desert of California and southern Nevada

ZONE 13: Low or subtropical desert areas

ZONE 18: Above and below the thermal belts in Southern California’s interior valleys

ZONE 19: Thermal belts around Southern California's interior valleys

ZONE 20: Cool winters in Southern California’s areas of occasional ocean influence

ZONE 21: Thermal belts in Southern California’s areas of occasional ocean influence

ZONE 22: Cold-winter portions of Southern California’s coastal climate

ZONE 23: Thermal belts of Southern California’s coastal climate

ZONE 24: Marine influence along the Southern California coast

See below for a map of Los Angeles and Inland Empire climate zones