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TRAVEL GUIDES

CORDOBAMOSQUE

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Travel guides. Cordoba Mosque

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INTRODUCTION

Set on the banks of the Guadalquivir River, in one of the most typical of Andalusian cities,with its long Caliphate history, Cordoba’s Mosque is one of the most sublime works of worldarchitecture, and a marvel of Islamic art in the West. Fortress on the outside, oasis on the

inside, and, over all, a delight for the imagination. Now classed as a UNESCO World HeritageSite, the Mosque was commissioned in the mid eighth century by the Emir Abd ar-RahmanI, on the site of a Visigoth basilica. His successors undertook to embellish and expand themonument with the support of major world leaders who sent gifts for the decoration of this magnicent work, until it acquired its grand appearance in the tenth century After theCastilian conquest, a Christian cathedral was raised within its walls. The Mosque, one of the largest in the world outside Mecca, achieved a combination of technical and aestheticinnovations that would inspire new trends in construction. Now it stands as one of thegreatest treasures of Spain.

INTRODUCTION ............................................................................ 2

PLANNING YOUR VISIT ..............................................................3

HISTORY............................................................................................ 5

THE MOSQUE THROUGH THE AGES.....................................6

DONT MISS ....................................................................................10

DOORS AND FAÇADES .................................................11

A BUSY SQUARE ...........................................................12

INSIDE THE MOSQUE ...................................................13

THE CATHEDRAL ..........................................................14

THE MOSQUE MUSEUMS .............................................15

THE CHAPEL .................................................................16

LEGENDS OF THE MOSQUE .........................................17

DID YOU KNOW ............................................................17

AROUND THE AREA .....................................................18

INDEX

Patio de los Naranjos - Orange-tree courtyard




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Access

Three gateways give access to the

Mosque: la Puerta del Perdon, la

Puerta de Santa Catalina and la

Puerta de los Deanes. They all lead

into the Patio de los Naranjos - the

“orange tree courtyard”. Once in the

courtyard, visitors should head for

the galleries on the north side, where

the ticket oces are located. The visit

begins at the Puerta de las Palmas- the Door of the Palms - continues

through the oldest part of the

monument - built in the time of Abd

ar-Rahman I - and ends in the centre,

where the Cathedral stands.

Information

Cordoba Mosque Tel.: 957 47 05 12Cordoba Tourist Oce

Tel.: 902 20 17 74www.turismodecordoba.org

EntryAdults: 8 €; children 10 to 14 years: 4€; children under 10 years: free.

Hours: Monday to Saturday from 10

am to 5.30 pm, Sundays and holidays,from 8.30 am to 10 am and 2 pm to

5.30 pm. From March onwards, themonument opens for an hour longer.

PLANNING YOUR VISIT The Mosque in Cordoba is one of the most visitedmonuments in Spain: each year a million visitors wonderat the glories of its interior. Most come in March, April, Mayand September, while in late autumn and winter the templeenjoys relative solitude and silence.

Puerta del Perdon - Gate of Forgiveness; south wall




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HISTORY Towards the end of 785, the founderof the Umayyad Dynasty, Abd ar-Rahman I, ordered work to be startedon what was to become the greatMosque of Cordoba. It was set onthe site of the Basilica of San Vicente,which had been bought from theVisigoths for a hundred thousanddinars; they rebuilt their house of worship on the outskirts of the city. Itis said that the rst Emir of Cordoba

wanted the oratory to evoke hisinfancy in Syria, so the inuence of the eastern Mediterranean, imbuedwith the Hellenic cultural tradition,set the aesthetic character of theoriginal building.

In the ninth century, Abd ar-Rahman II undertook a substantialenlargement of the oratory. But themain works would be undertakenduring the prosperous decades of the Caliphate in the tenth century.

The rst Caliph, Abd ar-RahmanIII, extended the courtyard andadded a new minaret, and hisson, al-Hakam II, extended thenaves and commissioned thesumptuous decoration of the mihrab and the maqsura. The last major

improvements and alterations to

the Mosque were commissionedby Al-Mansur, who signicantlyextended the prayer hall. TheChristian conquest in 1236 restoredthe building to the Christians and toChristianity. In the sixteenth century,with the blessing and support of Emperor Carlos V, work began on theerection of a cathedral in the centreof the Islamic precincts. This partiallydestroyed the interior of the Mosque,and the Emperor is said to have later

regretted his approval, saying, “Youhave destroyed something uniquein the world and replaced it withsomething commonplace.” It took nearly two centuries to complete theCathedral and the result is a mixtureof Gothic, Baroque, Plateresque andRenaissance architecture.

THE MOSQUETHROUGH THE AGES

711: The Visigoths give half of theBasilica of San Vicente to the Arabconquerors.

785: Abd ar-Rahman I buys theBasilica of San Vicente to build aMosque.

786: In early September, worksbegin.

788: Hisham I completes thecourtyard and minaret.

848: Abd ar-Rahman II undertakesthe rst enlargement.

865: Muhammad I orders theconstruction of the maqsura and themihrab.

929: Abd ar-Rahman III proclaimedcaliph.

951: Abd ar-Rahman III extends thecourtyard and erects a new minaret.

961: The Caliph al-Hakam IIundertakes the second and most

artistic extension.

987: Al-Mansur carries out the third

and nal extension project, the

biggest and least successful of all.

1031: Civil war puts an end to the

Caliphate of Cordoba.

1236: Fernando III reconquers

Cordoba. The Mosque is dedicated to

Christian worship.

1239: The Mosque is converted to

Cathedral.

1260: Alfonso X el Sabio (“the Wise”)

orders the construction of the Chapel

Royal in the Villaviciosa skylight

chapel.

1523: Work begins on the Cathedral

in the interior of the Mosque.

1524: The Emperor Carlos V laments

that the bishop has “destroyed

something unique.”

1607: Bishop Diego Mardones

inaugurates the new chancel and

transept. The Cathedral is dedicated

to Our Lady of the Assumption.Original mosque

Mosque interior




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DON’T MISS

Patio de los Naranjos- the orange-treecourtyard This big open space is where theMuslims performed their ritualablutions before prayer. Over time,it has been greatly altered; nowit is anked by arcades, and twofountains play in the shade of orangetrees, palms and cypresses. Thefountains themselves bear the namesof trees - cinnamon and olive - thelatter, particularly, being the subjectof many legends and romances.Alongside the main entrance to thecourtyard, above la Puerta del Perdon- the Gate of Forgiveness - rises thebell tower erected at the end of thesixteenth century over the Arabminaret.

Prayer room The forest of columns that rises in thisarea is a paradise of stone designedand built by the best architects of thetime; it was an unprecedented work that inuenced the future of Islamicarchitecture. Within the nineteennaves, rise 856 columns with shaftsof all imaginable colours and forms,

above which curve horseshoe archestopped with semi-circular arches,reminiscent of those of the Romanaqueducts. The ochre hues of thestonework alternate with the red of the brickwork, creating an eect of an incredible petried palm grove.

Mihrab and maqsura The mihrab, the wall that the faithfulface to pray, and the place wherethe Koran was originally read from,and the maqsura, an adjacent space

reserved for the caliph, are a veritabledemonstration of decorative andarchitectural renement. The rstis octagonal, with a shell-shapeddome, and glitters with bright oralmosaics and Arabic inscriptionscreated by Byzantine artists sent overby the Emperor in Constantinople.Above the maqsura glistens the most

beautiful dome of the Mosque, made

of marble and covered with mosaics.

The Arfe monstrance The most important of the treasureson display in the Cathedral Museum

is the Corpus Christi processionalmonstrance, a spectacular creationin silver and gold by Germansilversmith Henry of Arfe. It is overtwo metres tall and weighs 200 kilos. The monstrance was rst used in the

Corpus Christi procession in 1518.It represents a Gothic cathedral andhouses an inner monstrance for thehost and an image of Our Lady of theAssumption.

The bell towerAt the Puerta del Perdon - the “Gateof forgiveness” - rises this, the thetallest tower in Cordoba. It is 54metres in height and is accessedby means of 203 steps. Theserevolve around the old minaretof Abd ar-Rahman III, from whichthe muezzin called the faithful toprayer and which is preserved insidethe Baroque structure. The tower,designed by Hernan Ruiz III, is toppedby a sculpture of the ArchangelRaphael.

The orange-tree courtyard

Mihrab and maqsura Cathedral bell tower




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DOORS ANDFAÇADESBefore entering the Mosque andstarting the tour inside, it’s a goodidea to walk around the monumentand admire the walls and doors. Thenorth side is the main façade andlooks onto Calle Cardinal Herrerowith the Puerta del Caño Gordo andthe Puerta del Perdon (the Gate of Forgiveness), next to the Cathedral

bell tower. Turning right at the corner,towards Calle Torrijos, brings you tothe west front with the Puerta de laLeche - the Milk Gate - followed bythe Puerta de los Deanes - the Deans’Gate - opposite the San SebastianHospital, which was opened duringthe emirate of Abd ar-Rahman II.Following along the street are theGates of St. Stephen - the oldestgiving access to the temple - StMichael and the Palace Gate. Thereare no portals on the south façade,

but there is an interesting Renaissancestone balcony and a frontispiece thatserved as a penitential station duringHoly Week. The tour of the perimeterof the Mosque continues along CalleMagistral Gonzalez Marques. On theeast side are the Puerta del Sagrario(Gate of the Shrine) and the Puerta deSanta Catalina (Saint Catherine Gate)one of the three current entrances tothe monument, the other two beingthe Gate of Forgiveness and theDeans’ Gate.

A BUSY SQUAREAny corner of the Patio de losNaranjos is a suitable spot to stopand observe, imagining what lifemust have been like here in the timesof the Caliphate when the courtyardserved as the city’s public square.It would have been particularlybusy at prayer-time on Fridays,when the imam and his followerswalked in procession to the minbar ,the pulpit from which the imam

made the call to prayer. While thefaithful washed their feet in thefountains of the square, the cadisat in the shade of tall palm trees;every morning he held court and hissubjects came demanding justice. There would have been venerablemasters teaching their studentsthe sacred verses of the Koran, andsages such as Averroes teaching

algebra and geometry. There werebeggars, too, begging for alms fromthe rich merchants, and astronomerswaiting for nightfall. Craftsmenwould be here, crying their wares tothe crowds, and healers waiting forpatients to treat with their miraculouspotions. And above all the hustle andbustle, dominating the maze of themedieval neighbourhood, the voiceof the muezzin would rise, calling thefaithful to prayer from the minaret.

East wall

West wall South wall

Orange-tree courtyard




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INSIDE THE MOSQUE

The original MosqueA tour of the monument begins inthe oldest part, which was built byAbd ar-Rahman I. He is responsiblenot only for the Mosque’s fortress-

like appearance, but also for the factthat the looks towards the south. This is the wall where the mihrab islocated and where the faithful facewhen they pray. It would usually facein the direction of Mecca, but here inCordoba, it looks toward Damascus,a sign, according to some, of thenostalgia that the Emir felt for hisnative Syria.

From the Orange Tree Courtyard,access is by way of the Puerta de las

Palmas - the Palm Gate. Steppinginside this great complex, whichtoday covers an area of 24,000square metres, you will be struck by the darkness that engulfs theinterior. Wait while your eyes becomeaccustomed to the ickering lamplight, as it would have been in thedays of the Caliphate. Try, then, tomake a conscious eort to preventthe chapels and shrines of theChristian era clouding your view of the Umayyad construction.

Let your gaze lose itself in the forestof columns that rises to supportthe vast ceiling - 856 of theoriginal 1013 columns, with theirRomanesque, Greek, Visigoth andArab capitals. The Emir ordered theircreation to imitate an eastern palmgrove. The red and white curves of

the arches create a fascinating senseof depth and lightness, creating aneect of perspective as if the templehad no end.

Later additionsDue to population growth in thecity, which is said at one time tohave been the largest in the West,the Mosque underwent severalextension projects. The rst one wascarried out between 833 and 852

by Abd ar-Rahman II, and from thistime we can already see the rst useof the Cordoba-Arabic style capitals.A further enlargement project took place between 961 and 966, underthe authority of the caliph al-HakamII. This was the most cultured andenlightened period of the Caliphate,a fact that is reected in a seriesof constructive developmentsintroduced by the master craftsmenand builders, including the skylight

of the Villaviciosa Chapel, anda complex set of multi-lobedarches, which intersect each other,creating an extraordinary patternof beautifully decorated stars in thedome. During this period, around30,000 worshipped Allah at themihrab and under the forest of arches.

Al-Mansur extensionAt the height of the splendour

of Al-Andalus, Al-Mansur undertook the last extension project on thegreat Mosque of Cordoba, whichresulted in a doubling of its sizeand the decentralising the mihrab. This enlargement is marked byred tiles on the oor instead of themarble that marks the rst threebuilding areas. These nal naves,built by the hardened leader, arethe least successful of the wholecomplex. They extended eastwards

and represented a windfall for thepolitical propaganda of their sponsorbut they bring to a close the storyof the Muslim Mosque. Now, whatstarted out as a modest Christianchurch is to nd its destiny asa cathedral.

Original mosque Later additions

Al-Mansur extension




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THE CATHEDRALIn the centre of the Muslimtemple, rising through the forest of columns, is the Christian cathedral,commissioned by Bishop AlonsoManrique. Although it has only asingle nave, it is tall, and rises abovethe Mosque.

For years, after he reconqueredCordoba, Fernando III el Santo -Ferdinand the Saint - impressed

by its beauty and magnicence,managed to protect the Mosque. Hisson, Alfonso X el Sabio - Alfonso theWise - did likewise. Fernando did nomore than build a modest chapelat one of the sides, despite beingpressed to demolish the building toraise a Christian church on the site.Alfonso added a royal chapel, next tothe Villaviciosa skylight chapel, whichbecame a sumptuous space withAlmohad inuences which would

become the royal pantheon.Work on the cathedral itself nallybegan in 1523, and, although itis true that the complex projectinvolved a balance between the twobeliefs, the reality is that a part of the Arab heritage was destroyed. The project was commissioned fromthe architect Hernan Ruiz I, knownas El Viejo - the Elder, who wouldbe superceded in 1545 by his sonHernan Ruiz II, known as El Joven

- the Younger. The work was notcompleted until the seventeenthcentury, and the length of timeinvolved resulted in a mixing andblending of architectural styles;the foundation and early walls areGothic, the intermediate parts arePlateresque and the highest parts arein the Mannerist style.

The Cathedral is unique not onlybecause of this juxtaposition of styles, but also because of its

location as well as some outstandingelements; these include the rstmain chapel, which occupied theso-called Villaviciosa axis and whichserved as Cathedral headquartersuntil the seventeenth century, theChurrigueresque-style choir stalls

in American mahogany, the choir-screen designed by Juan de Ochoa,the carved marble pulpits, the highaltar, an impressive Renaissancemarble ligree, and other artistictreasures.

Cathedral interior

Cathedral exterior




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THE MOSQUEMUSEUMS

Cathedral TreasuryAccess is via the Chapel of Santa Teresa or the Cardinal Chapel. Piecesfrom the fteenth to the twentiethcentury are on display, mostly fromCordoba workshops. The mostimpressive item in the collectionis the Corpus Christi processionalmonstrance, a creation in silverand gold by the German goldsmithHenry of Arfe, which has beenused in processions since 1518. Inaddition to this masterpiece thereare processional crosses, lecterns,reliquaries, stas, monstrances,crucixes and images carved bymaster craftsmen and artists,including a magnicent cruciedChrist carved in ivory and dating fromthe Baroque period.

San Vicente Museum This museum is located inside theMosque, in the southwest corner.Here some of the pieces recoveredHere, some of the pieces from the

early Christian Basilica, built betweenthe sixth and eighth centuries, areexhibited. The Basilica font, datingfrom the sixth century, is one of themost valuable items on display.

San Clemente Museum

Located in the Al-Mansur extension,near the qibla wall and the sanctuary,this museum exhibits Arab andChristian works. Among the oldest

pieces are the Umayyad tombstones,the edge stone of a well andnumerous decorative fragmentsfrom the Mosque portals. The Arabicitems include the Caliphate capitalof the Al-Mansur extension, whilethe Christian works include thesarcophagus of Alfonso Fernandezde Montemayor and the tomb of the canon Bartolome de Leon. Theeighteenth century mechanism fromthe clock tower is also on display.

Cathedral Museum

San Clemente Museum

San Vicente Museum




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Chapel Royal The Chapel Royal was built

immediately after the capture of Cordoba by the Christian armies,at the command of Alfonso X elSabio, who wanted to lie there afterhis death. The style and plasterwork are reminiscent of the Granadaartwork of the Nazari period. Infact, the remains of “the wise king”were never housed here, but his sonAlfonso XI was buried here, as was hisgrandson, Fernando IV, whose bodyremained here until the eighteenthcentury. Opposite the Chapel Royal

is the mihrab.

Chapel of Santa Teresa This is also known as the TreasuryChapel as it gives access to theCathedral Treasury. A portal of black and red marble leads into theoctagonal space, which is coveredwith a baroque dome decorated with

oral plasterwork. The main altaris presided over by a statue of Saint Teresa. Besides the great eighteenth-

century coers, the chapel housesthe dignied tomb of the founder,Cardenal Salazar, the paintingslocated in the doors leading to thecrypt and Treasury and a collectionof sculptures of saints.

Chapel of Our Ladyof the ImmaculateConception This is the most important chapel to

be found on the western side and,since the Middle Ages, occupies thespace devoted to the baptistery.Designed in 1679, the main pointsworthy of note are the paintings onthe domed ceiling of the ante-chapel,the red marble portal and the imagesof Pedro de Mena on the mainaltarpiece.

Chapel of SanBartolome The tomb of Cordoba’s great poet,Luis de Gongora y Argote, is housedin this chapel.

Chapel of the ShrineIn a corner, next to the sacristy, iswhat was the old Chapel of Santiago- Saint James. It has housed theCathedral monstrance since 1571.Its three naves were decoratedwith frescoes in the last third of thesixteenth century and display a clearMannerist inuence.

THE CHAPELS

Within the Mosque-Cathedral there are a number of chapels,many of which pre-date the cathedral, the oldest dating fromthe fourteenth century. If you have the time to explore, eachoers something of interest. However, if time is short, thereare some which you should denitely not miss, particularlythose located on the south wall where the qibla is located.

Chapel of Santa Teresa Chapel of the Shrine

Chapel of Our Lady of the

Immaculate Conception




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LEGENDS OFTHE MOSQUE

The tunnel between theMosque and the MedinaAzaharaIn the city of Cordoba, it has alwaysbeen said that an undergroundtunnel exists, connecting the palaceof Medina Azahara with the Mosque. The tunnel has never been found,

but legend has it that the caliphrode through it on horseback to theMosque for his daily prayers.

The legend of the angelAccording to legend, a heavenlyangel appeared in a vision toAbaderraman I, leading the emirto order the construction of theMosque. After a night in which hisspirit was taken prisoner by the devil,

and he felt himself drowning in a sea

of blood while the bloodiest episodesof his reign were paraded before him,the sweet voice of an angel rescuedhim from his torment. He swore,“Such will be the work I consecrateyou, the one true God, that the wholeworld will envy it and it will tame thewinds and endure the endless days!”

The spinsters’ fountainPopular tradition says that singlewomen who wish to marry should

drink from the fountain of Santa

Maria located in the Patio de losNaranjos , specically from the pipethat is closer to the olive tree.

La Puerta de la Leche The Milk Gate is so-called as traditionsays it was the place where poormothers left their babies so thatricher families would adopt them.

Al-Mansur naves Today, these naves are crowned with

Gothic domes. It is here that thebells of the Cathedral of Santiago deCompostela taken by Al-Mansur asspoils of war in the raid of July 3rd,997 must have hung.

Roman bridge by night

Medina Azahara Santa Maria fountain




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AROUND THE AREAEither before or after your visit tothe Mosque, you should take a strollaround the surrounding area. Thestart of the Calleja de las Flores - theAlley of Flowers - is the location of the altar dedicated to la Virgin de losFaroles - Our Lady of the Lamps - awork by Rafael Romero, son of thefamous painter Julio Romero de

Torres Cordoba, to whom the city hasdedicated a museum. This street also

oers a ne view of the Cathedraltower, as well as being an ideal spotfor purchasing traditional crafts andlocal products in the souvenir shops. The nearby street Calle CardinalHerrero is also good for souvenirhunting.

The Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos -the Palace of the Catholic Monarchs- is also nearby, as is the Hospitalde San Sebastian, Episcopal Palace

and the Cistercian convent of the

Incarnation, founded in 1503, with

its beautiful Baroque church. Just a

few steps away is the Jewish quarter,

whose labyrinthine streets are home

to charming squares as well as the

only synagogue in Andalusia.

If your visit is at lunch time, or if you

feel the need of a snack, what better

than to sit yourself down at one of

the typical bars or restaurants and

sample some of the most famous

local dishes such as salmorejo (a

thick tomato paste, usually toppedwith chopped ham), famenquines

(breaded porkloin stued with ham)

or rabo de toro (bull’s tail). Bodegas

Campos (www.bodegascampos.

com) and El Caballo Rojo (www.

elcaballorojo.com) are traditional

establishments, or you could try

a more innovative option such as

Choco (www.restaurantechoco.com)

or the popular Pic-Nic.

DID YOU KNOW...In the Cathedral of Durham, the medieval town in the north of England,there is a chapel whose decoration is inspired by the arches of the GreatMosque of Cordoba? The Galilee Chapel, located by the southern accessto Durham Cathedral is actually a rather dark little place which featuresseveral stone arches similar to those of the Mosque of Cordoba,although uncoloured. The cathedral has its origins in 1093, and the restof the structure is typical Norman architecture. The Galilee Chapel wasbuilt between 1170 and 1175 by Bishop Hugh le Puiset, and was laterrefurbished in the fteenth century.

Our Lady of the Lamps Map of Cordoba

Palace of the Catholic Monarchs

Santa Maria fountain

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