Volume 35 Issue 2 Autumn 2010 - Bushwalker magazine quartelys/bushwalker352.pdfFirst we have the...

Volume 35Volume 35Issue 2Issue 2

Autumn 2010Autumn 2010Above Blue Lake,Above Blue Lake,Kosciusko National ParkKosciusko National Park

Contributions of interesting, especially typical and spectacular bushwalking photos are sought.you don’t want the same photographers all the time, do you?

Photo: Bob Cox,Watagan Wanderers The thin bit on Vengeance Peninsular, Blue BreaksThe thin bit on Vengeance Peninsular, Blue Breaks

Swimming pool above Klondalilla Falls,Swimming pool above Klondalilla Falls, Queensland Great Walks Queensland Great Walks

Photo: Bob Cox,Watagan Wanderers

The Bushwalker | 3

Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Bushwalker T he

The Official Publication of theConfederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW

Volume 35, Issue 2, Autumn 2010


ISSN 0313 2684

Editor: Roger Caffin [email protected] Design & Assembly: Barry Hanlon

Confederation Officers:President: Dodie GreenAdministration Officer:

[email protected]

Website: www.bushwalking.org.au

Address all correspondence to:PO Box 119, Newtown, NSW 2042

The Confederation of BushwalkingClubs NSW Inc representsapproximately 66 Clubs with a totalmembership of about 8,700bushwalkers.

Formed in 1932, the Confederationprovides a united voice on behalf of allbushwalkers on conservation, accessand other issues.

People interested in joining a bush-walking club may write to theConfederation [email protected] a list of Clubs, but a far moreuseful on-line list is available at theConfederation websitewww.bushwalking.org.au,broken up into areas. There’s lots ofother good stuff there too, includingthe bushwalking FAQ.

Subscribe to The Bushwalker

Keep up with all the news and developmentshappening in the NSW bushwalking scene foronly $10 per year. This is to cover posting andhandling: the magazine itself is free.

Send your name and address and cheque ormoney order to the Confederation of Bush-walking Clubs NSW Inc, PO Box 119, New-town NSW 2042. The new phone number is9565 4005. Make the cheque or money orderpayable to the Confederation of Bushwalk-ing Clubs NSW Inc as well: please do not ab-breviate the name!

Please indicate which issue you want your sub-scription to start with. We don’t want to dupli-cate copies you already have.

From theeditor’s desk. . .

We have two hot topics this issue, plus a sad note to the effect thatChris Baxter, founder of Wild and Rock magazines, has died. I knewChris when both he and I were young - I was in the Melbourne

University Mountaineering Club and he was active in the Victorian ClimbingClub, editing their magazine. We often met at the cliff face. He went on tofound and run Wild and Rock, and became known across Australia for them.We mourn his passing.Now for the hot topics. The last issue had some articles about the proposedAdventure Activities Standards. I inveighed against the idea that they should beapplied to any volunteer bushwalking activities. We are volunteer bushwalkingclubs, not commercial ‘Adventure Activity’ organisations. I don’t want‘adventures’ on my walks! There is some hope that rationality might prevail, inthe short term at least, here in NSW. Some details are given about this.Otherwise we might end up having to manage accidents as illustrated in thearticle about Muriel’s accident. Perish the thought - along with the victim!Read on and see what you think.The second item of really serious interest to all walkers is the action of thegovernment in their management of conservation and National Parks. It wouldseem that there are malign forces in the system which are hell-bent on turningour internationally-renown icons of beauty and conservation into money-making exercises for the benefit of a small number of favoured developers andrip-off merchants. The latest planning document I have seen focuses whollyand solely on Tourism and Development. OUR National Parks are seen in thisdocument solely as an opportunity for profit. No mention is made ofConservation or future generations. What do these turkeys think we pay allthose taxes for? Boondoggles? What's more, your Editor actually has somefirst-hand experience of what is threatened. This must be resisted at all costs!

Articles for PublicationClubs and members are encouraged to submit relevant articles, with a very strong preference forthose with good pictures. Both the author and the author's club will feature in the Byline - this is agood way to advertise YOUR club. We will also accept articles from outside bodies where thearticles seem relevant to members.Articles may be edited for length and content to help fit into our page limit. Pictures should besent at maximum available resolution: at least 300 dpi, preferably in their original unedited form.JPG, PDF or TIFF formats are preferred. The text should be sent as a plain text file(*.txt), NOT as a Word file (*.doc). I repeat, please send the pictures separate from the text file;do NOT send them embedded in a Word doc file. Pictures taken from a Word doc file are simplynot good enough and won’t be published. And, of course, the Editor is always interested inreceiving bushwalking books and maps for review. All enquiries should be sent [email protected] .In addition, we need landscape-format photos for page 2 - inside the front cover. These should beoriginals, NOT shrunk at all. Otherwise I will have to use my photos.Please note that opinions expressed by authors may not represent the official opinions of theConfederation or any Club. The Editor’s opinions are his own.

Roger Caffin, Editor

IndexDon’t you wish you were here? 2From the Editor’s Desk 3Proposed Rip-Off of our National Parks 4Rowans Hole 6Book Review 9Mountains and Molehills 10Diamond Creek 12Adventure Activity Standards 14Letter to the Editor 15

4 | The Bushwalker


This is quite serious. The Federal andState Governments are looking atturning our world-famous and

World-Heritage National Parks intocommercial enterprises - surreptitiously.Some recent planning documentsobtained by the Colong Foundation havemade this clear. These all focus ontourism and commercial opportunity forprivate profit, not on conservation.

First we have the “AUSTRALIAN ALPSNATIONAL LANDSCAPE TOURISMMASTER PLAN”. While developed by aprivate consulting company, it was paidfor by the Federal Government. Thisdocument is utterly focused on how theTourism industry can make more moneyout of the Parks. The word conservationoccurs 21 times in the document,although 9 of those are in the phraseconservation tourism. Can they becounted? On the other hand, the worddevelop (in form or another) occurredabout 230 times. It draws heavily on theNSW National Parks & Wildlife ServiceTourism Strategy, Draft December 2009which is similarly focused.

And just what is the focus? This quotefrom page 11 of the AAMLTMP coversmuch of what is being proposed: Theproposed Australian Alps Brand promisesthe Experience Seeker a distinctiveholiday with immersion in a high countrylifestyle and landscape. Perhaps thisclarifies it (page 14): Experience Seekersin general have higher expectations thantraditional tourism markets across theAustralian Alps. They want a mix ofquality accommodation, good food andwine, service and information that is wellorganised and personal, and a choice ofunique experiences geared to their needs.But there are problems for the tourismindustry, as noted on page 86: Forexample, the construction of roofedaccommodation within National Parks isprohibited or subject to significantrestrictions. It has also been indicated thatthe current NSW leasing and licensingapplication/renewal process forcommercial operations within protectedareas is complicated for operators and canbe prohibitive.

What does this translate into? On page103 one option is spelt out for theKosciusko Main Range area: CharlottePass to Kosciusko via the Main Range,guided walk with overnight campingaccommodation, meals, transfers andguide (operated by Lake CrackenbackResort). There is potential to furtherdevelop this product into a high yield,iconic Alps experience by: * transitioningto luxury innovative and sustainable in-park standing camp accommodation(exclusive to product guests) instead ofmore traditional tent-basedaccommodation (the standing camp maybe fully demountable, allowing forcomplete removal to rest the site duringwinter).

On page 54 of the Report we have:4.5.2 Potential New Hero Experiences Toaddress gaps in the current product

offering, priority projects for developmentinclude: PRIORITY A (PROJECTS THATCOULD BE DEVELOPED IN THE SHORT -MEDIUM TERM) These projects are: • MtHotham-Falls Wild Walk – has potential tobe the brands lead product: multi-daywalk with standing camps and ecolodge(outside national park). Currently subjectto feasibility assessment. • Rooftop ofAustralia Walk, Charlottes Pass-Kosciuszko – multi-day walk withstanding camps • Mt Buller-RazorbackSpur Epic Mountain Bike Ride – could beAustralias first Epic Ride; currentlysubject to feasibility assessment •Australia’s highest ride – iconic mountainbike experience in Kosciuszko NationalPark

You have got to love the idea of HeroExperiences! But yes, this does mean theywant to put luxury tourist accommodationright into the middle of the KosciuskoNational Park. The NSW TourismStrategy document confirms this on page10: Evaluation of priority multi-daywalking opportunities in conjunction withtourism partners • Great Solitary Walk,Blue Mountains National Park – camping-based walk in Blue Mountains NP • RoyalCoastal Track to Illawarra Escarpment –commercial guided experience • BouddiCoastal Trail – links to existingaccommodation • Solitary Islands CoastalWalk – links to marine park • AustralianAlps winter/summer backcountryexperience – commercial hutbasedexperience

The Colong Foundation has this to sayon the matter: Garrett sells out Laborsnational park credentials by Keith Muir In2004, a Colong Foundation brochure onKosciuszko National Park claimed that thetourist industry would soon want todevelop the Main Range. Critics allegedthe brochure had grossly overstated thesituation. Not any more.

Six years later, Peter Garrett, ex-ACFpresident and Midnight Oil singer, isEnvironment Minister. His appointmentpromised so much, but he has supportedthe worst sell out of national parkprinciples to business interests in fortyyears.

At a National Parks Australia Councilmeeting last September, Minister

Garrett said that national parks need to beless constrained by conservation. Hethinks national parks need to raise morefunds, rather than relying entirely on thepublic purse. He is equally insistent thatthe push to increase accommodation andinfrastructure for high-end tourism is

needed in national parks to help them paytheir way.

In 2009 the Federal Governmentcommissioned an entity called AustralianAlps Tourism Master Plan Incorporated toprepare a report. After getting pastBRAND this and BRAND that you discoverthat this master plan report proposes tocanvas resorts on the Main Range. ForVictoria theres a wilderness eco-lodgeproposed for a Great Walhalla AlpineWalk and wilderness accommodation fora Wild Walk over the Cross Cut Saw.

After protesting to Minister Garrett Iwas informed that the master plan wasavailable online on the Tourism SnowyMountains, North East Victoria TourismInc. and Destination Gippsland Ltdwebsites from Friday 18 September toMonday 19 October 2009. So if you, likeme, missed out on providing comment onthis tourist business grab, its your ownfault, apparently.

Minister Garrett also sat on his handswhile a tourism master plan for

Kakadu National Park proposed severaltourist developments for that parks StoneCountry wilderness. And if you read thetourist promotion supplement to theHerald on Saturday 23rd January, youmay have noted journalist Daniel Scottsdescription of his favourite holidayadventure: “I was trekking the JabulaTrail through Nitmiluk National Park(NT) with maverick guide Mike Keighleyof Far Out Adventures, and we have justarrived at our camping spot - a dramaticsingle drop waterfall. As I cooled off in arockpool I heard a helicopter. It landedand out stepped Snowy, with an esky fullof cold beer and hot pizzas.” Similarhelicopter flights are proposed in theKakadu tourism master plan. [and seebelow re KNP]

The connection between conservationand low impact park use is beingoverturned as some of the best bits ofpristine nature within national parks aredeveloped. Only last November sevenQueensland national parks wereannounced for development by PremierAnna Bligh.

NSW national parks are slated to benext. There are four Federally-fundedNational Landscapes to promote tourismin NSW, the Blue Mountains, the Alps, theFar South Coast and the Border Rangesrainforests. Tourism master plans havebeen released for the Alps and the FarSouth Coast National Landscapes andboth propose development in nationalparks.

Proposed Rip-Off of our National Parks Roger Caffin

The Bushwalker | 5


The NSW Government is working onnew legislation to cut the "red tape" thatcurrently protects our national parks anda range of consultant reports to facilitatepark development are in preparation.

Only your opposition can stopinappropriate national park development.Join the working group opposing nationalpark development. [email protected]

The Sydney Morning Herald on April15 had this article ‘Chrome dome in redfrock shock by Elizabeth Farrelly. (I thinkshe is referring to Peter Garret in thetitle.)

... Not until a fortnight ago, whenGarrett launched the tourism master planfor Kakadu.

The name says it all. Without wishingto harp, I feel obliged to point out theterm master plan, like master bedroom,implies a dominance relationship, with adoer, and a do-ee. Here, naturally,Kakadu is the do-ee.

In 53 pages the word developmentappears 67 times, even across the StoneCountry wilderness, and almost half thepark is now designated developable arealike amoebic dysentery across this remotecomplete, potentially, with helipads todeliver your pizza warm and yourprosecco cold.

Then, just last weekend, Garrettlaunched another master plan, one of 15in the pipeline, this time for Kosciuszkoand the Australian Alps, or Kossie and theAussies, as theyll soon be known by theglobal audience of high yield experienceseekers to whom Brand Australia isaddressed.

The Australian Alps national landscapestrategy would be amusing if it

werent so tacky. Replete with randomwordage - authenticity, respect, integrity,honesty, freedom, sensitive … free spirit,larrikin, old, wise, craggy, strong,mystical, powerful, gentle, care for theenvironment - it reads like the butcherspaper gleanings from SWOT Analysis 101,or the stimulus from the Third GradersGuide to Haiku. Except even in thirdgrade theyd get their nouns and adjectivessorted.

They would also be warned off jargonas the camo of sloppy minds. For here inKosciuszko-to-be, there are no villages orhamlets, just destinational clusters andservice hubs. Local culture appears asstrong Aboriginal product and nationalparks themselves as brand-related market-ready product offering signature natureimmersion experience.

Not that experience is recommended.Notes the strategy, international visitors

are drawn to the horseriding iconology …they dont … want to sit in a saddle. Itsnot about getting on the horse but gettinginto the lifestyle and the idea of it all. So,uh, maybe a virtual reality game wouldsuffice, save on the greenhouse gases?

Tourism isnt even Garretts bag. Theonly reason hes launching these things isthe recent and unholy alliance betweennational parks and the tourism lobby.National parks are no longer conservationwildernesses or biodiversity reservoirs orrefuges but profit centres. National parksmust pay their way.

Its the same at state level. A 2008report-to-government by John ONeill castnational parks as state-owned tourismassets and criticised the authoritiesuncommercial attitude.

Is this hot air, or for real? On a recentwalk in the area my wife and I camedown from Mt Townsend to Lake Albinaand then continued along the Main Rangeto Mt Twynam. As we descended ahelicopter landed at Lake Albina at theend nearest Mt Kosciusko. The fourpassengers spent a lot of time (an hour ormore) wandering around that end of thelake. What they were inspecting I do notknow. The first two photos show this.

We headed off towards CarruthersPeak. While on the ridge above Club Lakethe helicopter buzzed over us at analtitude of between 50 & 100 m,inspecting us. Thenext photo showsthis, and hisregistration marks.

Then thehelicopter swoopeddown and landed atClub Lake. Thepassenger(s) walkedaround, and one ofthem wentswimming in ClubLake. You can see atrail of turbidity inthe lake leading tothe bank where heis getting dressed.

We continued onover CarruthersPeak. After a whilethe helicopter tookoff from Club Lakeand swept down theSnowy River valleytowards HedleyTarn. It descendedbelow the hillsidethere, out of oursight. While wecould not see it

land, I did hear the engine fade away asthough it had been stopped. Some timelater we heard the engine again as it roseand headed down the valley pastGuthega.

I am appalled at the thought ofhelicopters flying around this area at

such low altitudes, way below the 500 mnormally allowed. We were buzzed in amanner reminding me of an Americangun-ship. Landing passengers at theglacial lakes seems a travesty of theconcept of our Alpine National Parks. Isuspect they were interested developersinspecting possible delights for tourism,and possible sites for standing camps.My mind seethes with outrage. t

6 | The Bushwalker


The western edge of the Gardens ofStone National Park does not seemto enjoy the bushwalker patronage

that it deserves. While it looks remote forSydney-based walkers to access, thereality is that in less than 3 hours you canhave parked the car and be walking insome of the most spectacular country inthe Greater Blue Mountains NationalPark. I led a group of seven keen walkerson a ‘tasting trip’ to this area on 16thFebruary this year. We had a fantastictime as recorded below.

First of all, where is Rowans Hole? The‘Hole’ is located about 3 km due east ofBen Bullen and is accessed via the MoffittTrail. It is also the headwaters of CocoCreek, a major tributary of CaperteeRiver. Why is it called a ‘Hole’? To find acredible answer we need to go back intime to the late 19th century when JosephEdmund Carne, Government Geologist ofthe day, was busy mapping much of thiscountry as part of his work in identifyingthe economic potential of the ‘WesternCoalfields’. The term ‘hole’ was usuallyreserved for a collapsed volcanic neck,and initially Carne thought that the over-deepened area at the head of Coco Creekwas of volcanic origin. It is not. Howeverthe nomenclature has remained.

The walls of ‘Rowans Hole’ aresurrounded on three sides by cliffs up to100 m high that include the TarpeianRock and the Moffitt Pagodas. The twonorthern ends of the cliffs that arepenetrated by Coco Creek appear toenclose the ‘hole’, reinforcing thedramatic effect.

Come now with me on our journey. Itwas one of those absolutely perfect latesummer walking days, 14 C, the countrygreen and freshly washed after days ofrain with air clarity that occurs about 3times a year. The walk as designed is intwo discrete sections. Section 1 is a shortbut dramatic walk into the MoffittPagodas(1). The vehicles were parked atGR 244 209 on a bend on the Moffitt FireTrail.

A long abandoned road leads generallysoutheast along the crest of a gentlyundulating ridge in open eucalypt forest.After less than ten minutes several largerocks appeared directly in front of us. Theaim was to reach the very southern end ofthe ridge, so it was with discipline that weresisted the temptation to go directly to

the edge. The trade off would come later -stupendous views.

The end of the ridge is a maze ofcomplex, interlinked pagodas withcompound slots and drops and ramps. Aswe climbed to our first viewing lookoutwe were gob-smacked by the view. It isunique. The catchment of Coco Creekstretches before you for severalkilometres. Pantoneys Crown is on theright with the escarpments of MountsGenowlan and Airly on the left. Theperfect cone of the Tayan Peak is firmly inthe centre. The symmetrical knob ofCottage Rock on Mount McLean is clearlyseen. On the far horizon Mount NeverNever, Nullo Mountain and MountCorricudgy and all their satellites are inperfect alignment.

Closer and directly north-east is BaalBone Point and the Tarpeian Rock. A turnof the head to the northwest andBlackmans Crown comes into view.Panning south is Gardiners Hill andbehind it Platform Rock. Rowans Hole layas a green carpet some 200 m below - allthis from our first vantage point.

Everywhere on this crest the pagodascrowd one another. The slots areconvoluted and exciting. We clamberedup and over and in and out in this vastnatural playground until we reached thefurther most pagoda of the pagodacomplex. Here at GR 249 203 is the fullcyclorama of visual delectation. Inaddition to our earlier vision we nowhad the full 360-degree view. A memberused the occasion and the perfectweather conditions to film the full circleview.

At 1000 am we located a pleasantspot for morning tea on the western sideof the pagodas. Several members weredelayed photographing an abandonedLyrebird nest hidden in one of theelevated cave recesses. During morningtea several other members went onadditional sorties of exploration. It isthat kind of country - it was hard to sitstill.

After morning tea it was time toexplore an interesting isolated rocky

knob to the north, GR 249 206. A short200 m walk coupled with a 2 m ascentand we had an uninterrupted view northof the Capertee Valley, includingBlackmans Crown, Pearsons Lookout,Mount Airly, Airly Gap, Mount Genowlan

and all the other magic mountainseastwards until they were hidden byPantoneys Crown. Such a surfeit of goodthings.

Minutes later we were back in thevehicles and negotiating the deeply ruttedsection of the Moffitt Trail (about 1.5 km)to the turnoff to Rowans Hole, GR 250192. Here began the more serious part ofthe walk. After checking water supplieswe set off down a recently upgradedproperty access road. The cuttings aredeep and show a good cross section ofstrata including a coal seam (about 50 cmthick) and split boulders complete withfossilised ripple marks that record whenthe tide went out on a sandy strandhundreds of millions of years ago. Greatviews of our earlier location on thePagoda Maze were photographed,showing just how high and isolated thePagoda Maze is.

Several minutes later we entered theprivate property known as Rowans

Hole. I was hoping that the owner wouldbe present so I could make myself known

Michael Keats, The Bush Club

Pagodas, pagodas

Tarpeian Rock, Photo Ian Thorpe

The Bushwalker | 7


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Fly Sydney - Rotorua direct.Meet your guide at theairport, drive to our cosyalpine lodge in the heart ofTongariro National Park.Settle in with a glass of NZwine while being briefed ontomorrow’s hike - one of theworld’s best day walks.

Fly Sydney ‐ Rotorua direct.Meet your guide at theairport, drive to our cosyalpine lodge in the heart ofTongariro National Park.Settle in with a glass of NZwine while being briefed ontomorrow’s hike ‐ one of theworld’s best day walks.

and explain our mission. (It is easy toavoid entering the property at all.) Thatwas not to be. Although there is a fairlynew prefabricated building it was lockedup. There were no livestock apart fromkangaroos and the place had the feel ofbeing used as a lifestyle retreat on a veryoccasional basis. The residual stock-yardsand other equipment looked old andunserviceable.

A very old track led away from thehouse, crossing and recrossing theboundary to the east. It soon disappeared,but the open forest was easy to negotiateand rapid progress was made. We crossedan unmarked creek at GR 265 196 andheaded north, climbing steadily all thetime to GR 266 199. Here we picked upan animal pad that at times had themakings of a walking track. From thispoint the rate of climb accelerated, 120 mbeing gained in the next 300 m. The nowvery well defined track hugged the base ofthe cliffs. The open forest providedfabulous views of the cleft-ridden pagodacliffs to the immediate north – there is alot of exploring to do in this country.

A saddle dividing the Jews Creekwatershed from the Coco Creek watershedis where the track takes a 180-degreeturn. The views to the north andnorthwest were just superb. Stephen hadpushed on fast to get to this point, andwas busy with his sketching pad when wearrived. Equally fleet of foot, Dave Dash

had gone off on a mission to findTarpeian Rock.

A fascinating riddle immediatelybefore us was part of a very old fence. Itwas a serious fence indeed, being nearly 2m high and having 8 strands of wireincluding 3 of barbed wire, with thelowest three strands close to the groundand only 100 mm apart. It appeared to bedesigned to straddle the saddle althoughwe did not bother to follow it. A check ofthe first edition Ben Bullen topographicmap provides no answers. All shownsurveyed portions are well to the west.

After a compelling photo session wewent into climbing mode once more andheaded to the top of what we initiallybelieved was the Tarpeian Rock. You see,the first edition of the Ben Bullentopographic sheet shows the spot asTarpeian Rock but the second edition hasit relocated 400 m further south. Whilethe name may have been in contentionthe position and the view were never inquestion.

It is glorious spot presenting a doublehead. The back head has a cave

overhang while the front head is amassive, suspended rock platform withgreat views including the fabulouscomplex of pagodas that I had beenpreviously advised were ‘Moffitt Pagodas’.That is incorrect: they are unnamed and Iam suggesting that this complex ofpagodas be called the Pagoda Maze.

Which of the two platforms to choosefor lunch? The party was almost equallydivided so I suggested we resume in 40minutes giving everyone time to enjoyboth spots. After consulting the first andsecond edition maps and seeing thedifficulty in determining the correct

Yet more pagodas

8 | The Bushwalker


location for the Tarpeian Rock, Idetermined to call this rock at GR 268199 the Palatine Rock, after the PalatineHill that adjoins the Capitoline Hill inancient Rome, The Tarpeian Rock waslocated on the Capitoline Hill. It is asuitably appropriate and consistentclassical name for a very magic spot.

Leaving was hard but we had lots moreto explore. We followed the crest of theridge headed southeast to GR 271 197. Itwas here on looking back that we realisedthat the real Tarpeian Rock was back afew metres and further west. At 1310 westood on the true Tarpeian Rock(2) andgazed at the Pagoda Maze. The Mazemakes an awesome sight and just begs tobe explored. Dave advised that, based onexperience, once you enter the this mazeyou need a minimum of 2 hours to getout, plus the necessary patience andstrength to climb up and down manytimes to verify whether the way you aretravelling will work. Before leavingTarpeian Rock we noted some very deepand dark clefts within the Pagoda Mazeand we also could hear but not seerushing water.

Very shortly we would have to make adecision as to whether to enter thePagoda Maze complex or merely skirtaround the edges. I did have with me acopy of an orienteering map, scale1:10,000 with 5 m contours that wouldhelp if we ‘went in’. Ian was all for goingin deep and after consultation we decidedto give it a go.

It was real adventure land stuff. Thereare pagodas on pagodas and a criss-cross

of slots and runnels and points andcaves and overhangs. Keeping eachother in sight was a major exerciseand auditing that we were all togethertook time. The most complex sectionis close to the northern cliff edge. Lotsof testing preceded each moveforward with some of the partyclimbing high for a view and sometesting long slots for ways down. A lotof these exploratory adventures simplyended in unscaleable drop-offs.

After about 20 minutes in the 'deeppart' it was clear that a lot more

than two hours would be necessary toreally find a way through. Regrettablywe had to abandon a full-onexploration, and ultimately headedout along a north south trending ridgetowards the Moffitt Trail. Even doingthis was exciting and we enjoyed a lotof very special experiences. Planning abase camp and really spending timecould be very rewarding to exploreand map the pagodas and a way ofroute. Very detailed aerial photoswould be a useful aid.

For the record we entered thepagodas at GR 271 193 at 1340 andexited them onto the open spurat1425 at GR 269 190: a distance ofmaybe 800 m in 45 minutes. At 1446 weemerged onto the fire trail at GR 266 181.A brisk walk along the road had us backat the vehicles at 1515. t

1 The Moffitt Pagodas were named after JoyceGrace (28/11/1930 – 31/07/1999) and VernBusby (20/03/1924 –15/09/2001) Moffitt who

were environmentalists associated withprotection of the Gardens of Stone NationalPark. The name was proposed by the NP&WSin January 2007 and has been adopted by theNSW Geographic Names Board.2 As determined by the NSW GeographicNames Board

OK mighty leader, how do we get out of here?

The Bushwalker | 9



Book Review

There are Guide Books, andthere are massive tomes. 'TheUpper Grose Valley -

Bushwalkers Business' definitelyfalls into the latter class, at 570+ A5pages, in full colour. It includesdetailed maps and descriptions of 59walks all around the Upper GroseValley - even a few which I haven't(yet) done. each walk has accessdetails and a route map based on aproper topo map with contours. Inaddition the book has the origin ofevery place name, the Europeanhistory of the valley and many of thepeople involved since it was firstdiscovered, comprehensive notes onflora and fauna, climate, fires andfloods and much more. Six years ofresearch went into this book: it isvery comprehensive.

At A5 size it could go in yourpack, but I suggest it might be muchbetter if you photo-copied the pagesfor the walk you want to do. Itwould be a pity to damage the book

after all, and you would sure save alot of weight!

I have to admit some bias in thisreview, as I spent many monthshelping Michael and Brian with thebook, doing my usual edit andtypeset thing for them. Never mind:it is complete (and indexed too).

The price is $45.00 per copy pluspostage and packing. In the Sydneymetro area P&P is $9.00 per copy;elsewhere in NSW it is $10.00 percopy. Copies can also be purchasedfrom the address below withoutpostage (or probably byarrangement from either author onone of their walks with The BushClub).

Orders and payment by chequeor money order to:

Keats Holdings Pty Ltd33 Livingstone AvenuePymble, NSW 2073

orfrom Brian Fox Tel 6332 2590.

The Upper Grose Valley - Bushwalkers BusinessMichael Keats & Brian FoxISBN 978 064 647 319 2

10 | The Bushwalker


On 19 May 2009 I achieved mylifelong dream - I stood on top ofthe world and became only the 49

th Aussie to do so. How did I get there?An apprenticeship in our very own BlueMountains became the stepping stone tomy personal achievement.

At first, this may sound bizarre. Whatpossible skills can the bush give you thatprepare you for weeks of sub-zerotemperatures, fixed ropes and icy snowslopes? How can our hot and dusty tree-lined Bluies even remotely compare withthe barren landscape and deprivation inthe high Himalayas? The answer issimple; it’s all in the mind.

A bushwalker or climber must possessmany important skills, includingfootwork, balance, navigation, fitness and

strength. These must be honed foroptimum performance, safety and tomaximise enjoyment. One skill oftentaken for granted or overlooked intraining schedules however, is the mind.How well do you know your boundaries?How do you cope with fear in difficultsituations such as steep terrain, gettinglost, or racing the gathering dusk back tothe car on a new route? How is yourmental toughness?

My experiences in the Blue Mountainshave greatly developed my mental

toughness. They’ve pushed my boundariesin so many ways and allowed me tounderstand my comfort levels - all of thisto the point where I could descend fromthe summit of Everest alone, with littleconcern or anxiety. I’ve actually been farmore out of my comfort zone in the BlueBreaks and Budawangs than on Everest!

What is all this mental toughness talk?Mental toughness is all about controllingyour fear and anxiety, being able to staycalm and as in-control as possible whenthings around you aren’t going as plannedand when you’re close to your ‘edge’. Notnecessarily at the limit of your climbingability or climbing a run-out line, butdealing with certain situations withoutpanicking.

Many bushwalks occur socially andrelatively close to roads. As such,there’s a low level of fear in aday’s walk. Things can go wrong,but with a low probability. Butwhat about embarking on a moreadventurous and ambitiousjourney? A week through theuntracked Wollemi wilderness?What if you undertake the walksolo? The fear levels rise, thesolitude and silence heighten yoursenses. There are so many morethings that can go wrong:snakebites, falls, broken limbs,sprains, getting lost,running out of water orfood. Being solo meansyou have no supportnetwork (EPIRB aside);you need to deal withproblems and anxietyalone. You constantlyquestion your own

decisions, and only have yourselfto blame and only you tocomfort your own concerns.

It’s important to know yourboundaries. From goingbushwalking to the RuinedCastle in a merry group to a soloattack on the Three Peaks is abig leap: it’s a leap I wasn’tready for at first. I turned backon my first two attempts, findingan obscure reason both timesrequiring a retreat. A higher

level of flow in Cox’s river, then the lackof drinking water in my pack seemed ajustifiable reason to fail. But the realreason was my fear, my fear of theunknown and whether I was equal to thetask. I turned back then, and I’ve turnedback on various routes at various pointssince then. I just couldn’t settle thedemons in my own mind. But each failureadds more determination to return andsucceed in that challenge next time, andeach successful completion of a new routeand new challenge is empowering andpushes your boundaries further as yougain trust in yourself for what you candeal with. It’s amazing, suddenly you seeyourself with new eyes as you complete aonce-terrifying proposition with ease,clearly demonstrating your progress. Yourplans become more adventurous, and dotson the middle of the map with interestingnames become realistic not futuristic.Trips like Possibility Point, Sluice BoxFalls and Colo river paddling become theweekend norm and traverses of theBroken Rock Range are a standard Easterprogramme. I was in awe of bushwalkersundertaking these trips 5 years ago; now Iam one of those bushwalkers.

I climbed Everest by the south colroute, the route pioneered by the Britishand Swiss in the 1950s which culminatedwith the first ascent of the mountain by

MountainsandMolehills

Richard Pattison

or

How the Bluies preparedme for Everest

Everest jetstream

Everest top camp

On oxygen on Geneva Spur

The Bushwalker | 11


Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa TensingNorgay in 1953. It amazes me that manstood on the moon only 16 years later: itwas almost easier to reach the moon thanthe roof of the world!

My expedition took 2 months in total:the long duration provides the

necessary acclimatisation required due tothe lack of oxygen. The summit of Everesthas just 29% of the oxygen compared tohere at sea-level. If someone wastransported from sea-level to 30,000ftthey would become unconscious inminutes and die soon after. But spendingtime at altitude, gradually gaining moreheight, your body has time to adjust tothe lack of oxygen by creating more redblood cells. In effect you can carry moreoxygen. There is also a physiologicalchange in the way your body deals withoxygen. It is possible to climb Everestwithout the use of supplement oxygenfrom bottles, but only a small percentageof humans are strong enough or capableof this. Doing so increases the level of riskto attract a high altitude illness such afluid in the lungs (HAPE), swelling of thebrain (HACE), extreme fatigue or poordecision making.

Even with supplemental oxygen, onsummit day you still need between 8 – 10full breaths just to make the next moveforward. Progress is painfully slow, andsimple scrambling is a major effort inclumpy boots and big puffy down-suits.The climbing has an added element inthat you can’t see your feet because of theoxygen mask. For safety, sherpas fromdifferent teams join forces to fix ropes tothe mountain in the most exposed and

difficult areas, althoughlooking at the anchorsused I wouldn’t trustmany to hold a fall.

I joined aninternational team of 6climbers and 2 climbingsherpas, the cheapestexpedition on themountain. Over the 2months you become aclose-knit group, relyingon each other for socialand moral support. Thesherpas were incredible,carrying our oxygenbottles and tents to highercamps, yet we stillstruggled with 16 kgpacks in the rarefiedatmosphere. The moreexpensive expeditionshave 2 climbing sherpasfor each westerner, and carpets in theirbase camp tents!

It was special to follow in the footstepsof Sir Ed Hillary. I was in awe of theireffort and bravery in their exploration,their summit attempts were so ‘out there’.I could hardly imagine their feelings asthey pushed the limit of humanunderstanding and endeavour along thesouth east ridge with 10,000 ft droppingaway on either side. No-one had everbeen there, everything was unknown,they might as well have been on themoon, and the nearest support for rescuewas at least a week away down in thewestern cwm. Their exploration andcourage inspires me, it inspires me to seekout and visit remote areas myself here in

the Greater Blue Mountains - maybe oneday I’ll discover my own Wollemi Pine orEagle’s Landing.

So there I am, on Everest at 8,848 mabove sea level, the cloud and snow

moved in without warning, reducingvisibility to about 20 m. I drew on all ofmy bushwalking experience in the remoteareas of the Blue Mountains to face theincreasing anxiety of my predicament. Notonce on my descent to our high camp atthe south col, or the subsequent two-daydescent to base camp, did I feel scared orout-of-control. The Blue Mountains havebeen my test-ground, and in my toughestexam yet, in the death zone of Everest, Ipassed. t

On the summit of Everest

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 35, Issue 2, Autumn 2010


Deua National Park with approximate present boundary in red overlaid onoriginal gazetted 1980 boundary in heavy black. The base map is Nick Fisher’sfrom the National Parks Journal, April-May 1979. Newer adjacent nationalparks are indicated in blue.

The Coondella Fire Trail follows partof the watershed of Diamond Ck.

Inland from Moruya on the NSW southcoast, lie the rugged escarpmentforests and ridges of Deua National

Park. Its wonderful country, the kind thatMyles Dunphy thought compared inquality with his beloved Kowmung, on hiswalk through there enroute from Nowrato Harrietville in 1920.

Later Dunphy proposed a reserve forthe area - "the Moruya Ranges and UpperDeua Primitive Area", but it was not untilmuch later that a National Park wasgazetted - Deua National Park in 1980.Initially the Park area was 803 km2, butthat was drawn up after protractednegotiations with the previous landmanager, Forestry. Important though thiswas, the Park boundaries were expedientmore than logical, and did not includeimportant headwaters of streamcatchments, such as the upper Deua Riverand upper Diamond Ck. It was only afteryears of protracted argument, includingthrough the Regional Forest Agreement,that these areas finally were mergedwithin the National Park. For Diamond Ckthis happened in 1994 and the upperDeua in 2003.

The upper Deua River and upperDiamond Ck have sections of rainforest,featuring in particular Pinkwood oreastern leatherwood (Eucryphia moorei).Some areas of former freehold land, suchas the Bendethera caves area, have alsobeen purchased, although the extent of

Rob Jung

The Bushwalker | 13



Streamside - Diamond Ck

A Diamond Ck waterfall

Lower Diamond Ck

Forest adjacent to Coondella Ck

Signs of recent high flowin Coondella Ck

Open forest on the exit ridge

these acquired inholding areas, is not asextensive as suggested by the recentSouth Coast Forestry Map. The Park'sarea is now 1220 km2.

The wild nature of Deua is recognisedthrough its two declared wilderness areas:Burra-Oulla in the NE, which includesDiamond and Burra Cks; and Woila-Deuain the SW. The latter features thatintriguing peak Mother Woila, as well asthe upper Deua River. Many excellent

walks of 2 days or longer duration, arepossible within these boundaries.

In the early 1990's I walked quiteextensively in the part of the Parkaccessible from Moruya, in particular theUpper Deua River, Georges and DiamondCks. Recently I revisited the area on aweekend walk to Diamond and CoondellaCks. This was in mid March 2010, about 3weeks after very heavy rain - Moruya'srainfall for February was 420 mm.

We followed these Creeks, using theCoondella Fire Trail and its offshoot (GR612 171) to access Diamond Ck. The oldtrack leading into the upper part ofDiamond Ck from the Bendethera / LtSugarloaf road (GR 598 133) which I hadused previously, is no longer very obvious.Although this upper part is where themost of the rainforest is, it is the lowersection which contains all the majorwaterfalls and with the recent rain theywere well worth coming to see.

Traversing the creek was a slowprocess, but we found bypassing all of

the drops a straightforward matter.Finding places to camp was not so simple- suitable places were scarce and theywere only small and rough. We campednear the junction of Coondella andDiamond Cks. The most pleasant campsiteon our walk route was near the areamarked as freehold land on thetopographic map. This was not marked(incorrectly) on the South Coast Forestrymap. One surprising feature of the walk tome, was how little signs of visitation therewere now, apart from the campsite onDiamond Ck at the end of the CoondellaFire Trail branch track (GR 598 170).

Our weekend was pleasantly cool, buton a warmer day the many plunge poolswould make swimming tempting. It wasobvious the stream flow had recently beenso much higher; the stream sidevegetation was flattened with many tree-limbs piled up. It would have been a placeto avoid during the storms! The tripturned out to be a mycologists delight -with many different types of fungi visible.

Coondella Creek was different. Its rockswere granitic, rather than

sedimentary and its course was rathermore gentle. Nevertheless it stillcontained rough sections to traverse. Itwas also a bigger creek with greater flow.We left it via the ridge at the junction ofits first major tributary (GR 574 185).This NE facing ridge was a good one,typically consisting of tall open forestswith little scrub. One half km furtherupstream at the next major junction, isreputedly another good exit ridge.The grid references refer to theBendethera 1:25,000 map with the 1966grids. The South Coast Forest Map(1:150,000) shows land tenure, bushcamping and picnic areas and is a usefulroad map for access. Wild Places (PPrineas and H Gold, 1983) remains auseful useful reference on the DeuaWilderness area. Further informationabout Deua can be found in the NSWWilderness Red Index. t

14 | The Bushwalker Volume 35, Issue 2, Autumn 2010


Individual walkersSmall walking groupsLarge walking groups

1 to 7 day walksGuided and self guided

walksIn house shuttle service

Self or fully catered

5 day walking packageIncludes: 5 nights accommodation,5 shuttles, Linen, Self catered, Selfguided, Standard cabin, off peak.

Cost twin share:$395.00 p/p ($780.00 total)

Cost triple share:$290.00 p/p ($870.00 total)

and BIMBIPARK

www.bimbipark.com.au - ph (03) 5237 9246

Do the whole walk from 1 central pointor just drop in.

We welcome the progress made fromDraft 1 to Draft 2 of the AAS

documents. Specifically the Confederationwelcomes the inclusion of theIndependent Participant definition, andthe explicit statement in the Introductionthat the NSW AAS does not apply toIndependent Participants. We are verypleased to see the replacement ofLeadership Qualifications with LeadershipPathways which provides forOrganisational Accreditation and PeerRecognition of Leader skills. It is still theConfederation’s view as stated in Draft 1comments that there should be a cleardistinction between Commercial and Non-Commercial Operators throughout theguidelines and that the guidelines shouldnot apply to Not For Profit Organisations.We are of the view that it is the role of theConfederation as peak body ofBushwalking Clubs in NSW to provideguidelines to clubs on operational issuesand risk management. This is consistentwith our view, as expressed in Draft 1comments, that it is the role of theVolunteer Peak Bodies of each AdventureActivity to write activity guidelines onbehalf of Non-Commercial organisations.These peak body guidelines wouldprovide for all Participants.

Clearly the Adventure ActivityStandards issue is an ongoing saga. I havecollected and paraphrased some bits andpieces here for your edification (oramusement). The responsibility foranything taken out of context is mine.

Please note that I do support the idea thatcommercial service providers and thoseoffering to look after children should haveto have some qualifications.

First we have the opening pages of theNSW AAS document where terms aredefined, with some comment. Then welook at other parts of the document.Adventure Activity

An outdoor pursuit requiring a widevariety of skills and equipment to engagein activities that have inherent risks anduncontrolled hazards, usually in a naturalenvironment.

Comment: an incredibly vague and all-encompassing definition. I could make acase for bush football being included here.For that matter, having a picnic at yourlocal park could qualify.Leader

Person upon who dependentparticipants rely upon for the provision ofadventure activities. Two types ofleadership are applied to adventureactivities.Adventure Activity Leader

Is a person who * Applies technicalskills and knowledge to conduct (withoutdirect supervision) an Adventure Activityfor dependent participants. * Provides areasonable level of guidance orinstruction to Dependent Participants toenable supervised participation in anAdventure Activity.Supervising Leader

Is a person who * Provides areasonable level of supervision forDependent Participants during AdventureActivities * Exercise a Duty of Care forDependent Participants * Initiate anappropriate emergency response asrequiredDependent Participants

A person who depends upon the leaderfor supervision, guidance or instruction tosupport supervised participation in anadventure activity.

Independent ParticipantsA person who possesses the skills and

knowledge to participate in an adventureactivity without dependence on a leader.A person who acknowledges the inherentrisk and assumes responsibility for theirown safety and welfare.

Comment: Fortunately the NSW AAS isnow starting to recognise the idea thatclub members are not 'dependentparticipants', but free individuals whoaccept full responsibility for their ownactions.Introduction

The New South Wales AdventureActivity Standards (NSW AAS) providesguidelines for organisations and leaders inthe planning and provision of AdventureActivities for dependent participants inNSW.

Comment: Bushwalking clubs do not'plan and provide Adventure Activities'within the meaning of this. We arevolunteers going bushwalking withfriends.

* The NSW AAS apply to DependentParticipants engaged in adventureactivities in NSW. * The NSW AAS do notapply to Independent participation inadventure activities.

Comment: This is where we have tomake damn sure that the wording doesnot get changed to remove thisdistinction.1.1 Activity Description

Bushwalking is the activity of walkingin the natural environment that mayinclude walks for pleasure, challenge,experience and/or educational outcomes.

Comment: This seems pretty fair.However, it is my contention that thisdefinition of bushwalking is in directconflict with the common meaning of theterm 'adventure'. We are not out for'adventure'. In this context, note that eventhe AAS recognises that some walking isdone in an urban environment, andadmits that the AAS would not normallyapply. Such a fine distinction!Extended comments by Editor

On page 8 of the document there are aseries of bullet points. Nowhere is it made

Muriel’s accident

Adventure Activity StandardsPart 2Roger Caffin

The Bushwalker | 15



Letter to the editorOn NomenclatureJim SmithWentworth Falls

Colin Gibson's research on the naminghistory of the Venus Beacon Tor isimpressive (The Bushwalker, Spring2009). However, the big unansweredquestion of his article is why are therenames like Boorong Crags, Kolonga Wallsand Moogan Gully in this section of themap and hundreds of other Aboriginalnames from many different parts ofAustralia on maps of the Blue Mountains?How long do we have to live with thenomenclatural fantasies of MylesDunphy?

I recently discovered where Dunphygot his names from. In the early 1900sthere was an anthropological magazine

called Science of Man. The editors of thismagazine invited readers from all overAustralia to send in Aboriginal placenames from their area. They also sent aform to police stations throughoutAustralia asking them to write out lists oflocal Aboriginal place names. Sometimesthese lists were published, as submitted,in the magazine. However, often theeditors would literally cut and paste theplace names sent in to create alphabeticallists. In many cases these lists failed togive the area or Aboriginal language thatthe words came from. Some publisherscreated booklets of selections from theselists so that people could use them fornaming their houses and boats etc.

Dunphy did not use these popularbooklets but went directly to issues of theScience of Man. Like the editors of themagazine, Dunphy did not care much

about what part of Australia the wordsoriginally came from. When he was fillingin the apparently "blank" spaces on hismaps, Dunphy would select words that heliked the sound of and whose alleged"meaning" seemed, to him, appropriate tothe topography. That is why we haveAboriginal place names from languagesused in other States on our BlueMountains maps.

In some cases, Dunphy would combinewords from two different languages tocreate his double barrelled names. Recentlinguistic studies have discovered manyhundreds of authentic Aboriginal words inthe languages of the Gundungurra andDharug people who lived in the BlueMountains. Surely it would be morerespectful to Aboriginal people to usethese truly local words rather than thetranslocated words of Myles Dunphy.

clear what these points mean or how theyare to be interpreted. The same applies tofollowing sections. Further, many (most)of these points are ridiculous. I will giveexamples from this first page:

1: Accurate, up-to-date maps, chartsand guidebooks are available for theintended route and area of operations

Comment: Oh yeah? Much of ourwalking is done with old unreliable mapsand no guidebooks. We went through SWTassie with a sketch map taken from aTasmanian club magazine.

2: Walking tracks are of suitableconstruction and/or condition to cater for...

Comment: Huh? Much of our walkingis done OFF track. Now what?

3: Leaders have recent localknowledge or have appropriatelyresearched the intended area

Comment: Many of our walks are intounknown areas precisely because we havenever been there before, and becausethere is very little published informationavailable. Is this to be all killed?

4: The method and style of routefinding and navigation is appropriate tothe intended

Comment: A totally pointless statement- how else do you navigate? Follow theMcDonalds wrappers?

5: Identify significant “CatchingFeatures” along the intended route

Comment: Definition of ‘catching’?Does this mean pointy dead sticks orlawyer vines? Or is this simply a normalpart of competent bushwalker navigation?

6: Overnight or Multi-day BushwalkingActivities – overnight supervision,sleeping arrangements and personalhygiene systems allow for mixed gendergroups and/or participants under 18

Comment: I’m still trying to work outwhat this means. Just who is meant tosupervise me overnight? Are thesupervisors meant to be awake all nightsupervising?

7: Overnight or Multi-day BushwalkingActivities - Determine the suitability of

natural water sources in the area anddevise an appropriate water collectionand/or supply strategy

Comment: Beforehand???? When wehave never been there before? What astupid and valueless comment. Butwonderful bureaucracy.

8: Assess the hazards at specificcampsites and activity areas

Comment: Oh, Drop Bears and AASbureaucrats, definitely. Mumble....

Now this is what I managed to getfrom the very first one of these sections. Itwould be boring and futile to prolong myonslaught into the stupidity and inanity ofthis document right through everysection. My point here is that thisdocument is in many ways a farce. I hatethink what a QC would do with it.

Fortunately, some sanity is creeping in.Further on in the document it discussesforms of accreditation. I suspect someConfederation influence may be showingup here, and will cover that in a moment.

Examples of how leader recognitionpathways may be applied

* a club or community group mayconsider Peer Recognition andVerification an appropriate means ofrecognising leaders within their contextand expectations

Key factors of peer recognition andverification process may include but isnot limited to

* Recognises the skills of the leaderusing an informal process * Assessment isoften informal and conducted in-situduring participation * Is based on theexperience and judgement of the peerwho is recognising the leader * Isbenchmarked against organisationalcontext, expectations and other relatedexperience

The Confederation has ben involved infighting this insanity off, as recentMinutes of correspondence show:

‘We welcome the progress made fromDraft 1 to Draft 2 of the AAS documents.

Specifically the Confederation welcomesthe inclusion of the IndependentParticipant definition, and the explicitstatement in the Introduction that theNSW AAS does not apply to IndependentParticipants. We are very pleased to seethe replacement of LeadershipQualifications with Leadership Pathwayswhich provides for OrganisationalAccreditation and Peer Recognition ofLeader skills. It is still the Confederation’sview as stated in Draft 1 comments thatthere should be a clear distinctionbetween Commercial and Non-Commercial Operators throughout theguidelines and that the guidelines shouldnot apply to Not For Profit Organisations.

We are of the view that it is the role ofthe Confederation as peak body ofBushwalking Clubs in NSW to provideguidelines to clubs on operational issuesand risk management. This is consistentwith our view, as expressed in Draft 1comments, that it is the role of theVolunteer Peak Bodies of each AdventureActivity to write activity guidelines onbehalf of Non-Commercial organisations.These peak body guidelines wouldprovide for all Participants.’

Contrast this with the expected targetfor the AAS:

An adventure activity leader* Applies technical skills and

knowledge to conduct an AdventureActivity for dependent participantswithout direct supervision. * Provides areasonable level of guidance orinstruction to Dependent Participants toenable supervised participation in anAdventure Activity.

Comment: Somehow, this seems utterlydisconnected from how a typical Club tripis run. It's relevance to us?

I could go on for pages, but perhapsthat is enough for now? Hopefully ourConfederation will keep us out of theclaws of the bureaucracy. You need toemphasise this to your club delegates! t

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